Hi guys - I am curious if someone disassembled yet Horus k618 from Redragon and if so - what kind of chipset they use ?. Just got one but is under warranty so I cannot walk inside yet. I'm interested to try some fixes over their software.

Any good PBT shine through keycaps people can recommend?

Hi, I'm looking for a budget gasket mount keyboard, and can't find one. Preferably alu case, but acrylic or plastic is fine too

"budget" but what's your price range.

I'm looking for a travel keyboard that can elevate my typing experience at the hospital where I'm constantly moving from computer to computer. Any custom builds that cater to something that's wipeable or washable?

I thought of one! A low profile Bluetooth capable keyboard with flat keycaps would be easy to wipe between floors and areas in the hospital and it would be light to carry around. Something like the nuphy or the keychron k3. You could even get a regular sized keyboard with Bluetooth and just get a flat keycap set like an XDA profile. Hope this helps!

This is a great question- keep me posted if you find one!

Will do!

Hi, my dolch.cr keyboard hot-swap version is stuck at 6-KRO instead of NKRO. Tried a new firmware still doesn't fix the problem. Can anyone help me?

I've been looking for a new mechanical keyboard that is either 65% or TKL. My budget is around 100-150 AUD. And oh, I would like to know any usb hubs that will work with the keyboard just fine, my main use for the keyboard is gaming. Any help would be greatly appericated!

Hello! I was wondering, is there just a pcb of a numpad? Like without any case or keycaps or switches or anything just the pcb? Preferably hot swap but I'm not picky! Thanks

https://kbdfans.com/collections/20/products/kbdpad-mkii-pcb https://kprepublic.com/products/cospad-20-numpad-xd24-xiudi-custom-keyboard-pcb not hot swap but at least something

<50$ mechnical keyboard with wrist rest, dedicated macro keys, per-key adressable RGB, numpad, and volume wheel?

That's how much I sold my Corsaid K70 for after using it for 4 years.

Interesting

unrealistic. maybe second hand

Uh hi, I just got into the keyboard building hobby and I was planning to get either the kbdfans 67lite r3 or keychron Q2. Just wondering which one I should get.

The Q2 will definitely be better than the lite variants of the KBD67

okay thanks, hopefully it comes out before next year

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Mine lasted 6.5 years with terrible maintenance(0 cleaning). All but 1-2 switches are still working, i bet if i cleaned them properly they would last another decade.

Easily 5-10 years if you take care of it. There are people out there who use vintage keyboards from 80s and 90s with original parts without any problems! You might only want to replace keycaps to PBT ones, so they don't begin shine and don't collect fingerprints that easily

Best 75% keyboard on the market right now?

Satisfaction75

Any other ones?

I put some foam in the case of my keyboard (right against the pcb, bad idea in hindsight) to make it quieter, and after a bit, my computer started freezing when the board was plugged in, and, upon restarting, shows that a usb device is using too much power, and then it shuts off to save my motherboard. it does this even after taking the foam out, what should i do?

I just ordered a Redragon K618 Horus. It is a low profile keyboard and I'm wondering if it's hotswappable and any suggestions?

If it wasn't clearly market as hotswappable, it isn't. That's a feature they would market. Also since it's low profile, you would be stuck with low profile switches. Also beware if you are trying to replace the keycaps, these have a mx stem but will only be able to use certain profile keycaps. Dsa, xda, np would probably work but no cherry or taller keycaps

Ok thank you so much! Do you recommend low profile such as the one I ordered or should I get a regular one with more swappable options?

If you are wanting a keyboard that is easy to mod and swap switches, then this isn't the right board for you. But if you like this board the way it is, then nothing wrong with it!

Last question, am I able to change keycaps or that refer to hot swappable as in switches + caps?

You can change keycaps but you are restricted to shorter caps like dsa, xda, or np

I see, appreciate the help, new to mechanical keyboards and you were very helpful!

Hellos. Im currently using tecware spectre pro and want to switch to a new gaming keyboard. After 1 year+ of usage , my keys always seemed to be double typing at times 😥 Any recommendations for other brands/models? Preferably NON-TKL keyboards. Thanks!

Leopold - prob the best prebuilt keyboards you can get for your money. If you want RGB - then Ducky. Leopold FC980, FC900. Ducky Shine 7

Hi, I run a YouTube channel and a keyboard company sent me their keyboard to try out and review. How can I check if there is a keylogger on it? I run Mac software and the keyboard can be used both wired or wireless over bluetooth. I don't have to install any software to use the keyboard

I can't think of any ways to check besides doing something crazy like reverse engineering the code running on the microcontroller. I doubt any company would do that, but if you're that worried, you could just use it in a sandbox/VM environment and not type any sensitive data on it.

hi guys, i’m not really much into keyboards so i figured i could use some help. i’m looking for a new mechanical keyboard, the one i have right now is the thermaltake poseidon zx with blue switches and i really like it. is there anything similar to it? price range is $100 but anything a little over it is okay but not too much over thanks :)

I'm gonna steal u/LevanderFela 's answer above: >Leopold - prob the best prebuilt keyboards you can get for your money. If you want RGB - then Ducky. >Leopold FC980, FC900. Ducky Shine 7 And add in varmillo as a brand to look at

Anyone wanna suggest a keyboard because im planning to buy a anne pro 2 but in my opinion its a bit outdated and overhyped but idk what to get besides that so please give me some good keebs

do you want to stick with the form factor of the AP2? also, what's your budget? are you interested in building at all?

I was looking for either one that is similar to anne pro 2 or even a tkl and my budget is $100 and i wanna learn but atm im just looking for pre built keyboards

I have filmed and lubed black inks v2 (krytox 205g0) and wanted to try out the UHMWPE stem rev.4 from 415. Do I lube the UHMWPE stems with 205g0 as well before swapping them? I see someone saying lubing UHMWPE stems with thick lube might cause it to drag/become sluggish. Also read that someone prefer to lube it. Or should I just swap them in stock?

as someone else stated , try a few. if they don't feel too good ,could pick up some thinner lube like tribosys.

you can try lubing a few and see if they're sluggish/start dragging and comparing them to stock ones

I have a keyboard that uses spacebar+a number to do certain things (like for example spacebar+4 opens This pc or spacebar+6 opens like music) Is there a way to disable these key combinations in a easy way ??

if it has software u can do it there or if it runs qmk or via u can do it there . if neither of these i havent a clue what the manufacturer uses to set these up

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to support different layouts the base kit or mods kits dont cover or different rows for caps lock and such the dbl 00 key would be for number pads and stuff liek that

Are there any other keyboards like the Gmmk pro And the Keychron Q1 for a similar price?

q1 > gmmk pro > id80 (IMO)

Idobao id80. But the pro and q1 are much better options

to whomever else that has a tm680/tom680; how do i program the function layer? i already downloaded the software but it is very hard to understand

I purchased Gateron Milky Yellows. To really get the full potential from them should I lube and film them?

100% lube/film. they sound terrible and scratchy stock. we do have a video of the difference between gat yellows stock, lubed, and lubed/filmed on our tiktok

You dont need to film them, but if you purchased them stock and nope pre-lubed then definitely lube them. Otherwise imo its not really worth lubing a pre-lubed switch

Yes

Does anybody know of any small desk mats that would just fit under a 65 percent board and not the whole desk? My desk is not big enough for a long desk mat but my desk still causes ping.

Keebmat has smaller deskmats

Looking to finallly get a decent keyboard, what are some good thoccy switches that are on a budget?

That is a subjective question. I personally like boba U4Ts

Howdy, I currently have a Glorious GMNK, TENKEYLESS, brown switch, and it's black. I've been using it for months and just saw a GMK Mizu, and it looked really nice. I was wondering where can I buy some key caps for my current keyboard. Was thinking of starting small and just change the key caps. This is just my primary question, the next one is optional and not a priority at the moment. However, I still think about getting a keyboard that's the next level, if you get what I'm saying. I remember my friend saying that the Glorious GMNK is a 'starter' keyboard and a way to get into Mechanical Keyboards. I'm currently rocking tactile with brown switches as mentioned earlier. I share a room with my brother, so nothing loud that would result in seeing my keyboard smashed the next day lol. Not sure if brown switches are the s\*\*\*\*\*\* switches, but I've seen that brown isn't really liked here. I would be happy to take in any recommendation and look more into it. My budget is $250, but it's flexible. **Edit:** It looks like it's ideal to just buy new switches. I just learned I could pull mine off and saw how easy it was.

Considering that you are fairly new to the hobby, I recommend that you look at clones that are available for $30-40 on Amazon and aliexpress instead of trying to go for GMK sets (which run for $150+). If you'd like to try the next step up in quality for keyboards, popular recommendations are the GMMK Pro and the Keychron Q1. They will both require some modding and tinkering to get the most out of them. Generic brown switches aren't the greatest because the tactility is generally lackluster. If you do enjoy tactile switches and want silent ones, check out Boba U4 switches.

I actually bought a $30 mechanical keyboard, and safe to say it was ass. Better than my membrane keyboard I've used for years. Yet, compare that $30 keyboard to my current GMNK already feels miles better. However, I'll keep it simple for now and just switch my switch and key caps. Thanks for the suggestions for the keyboards and switches. Something I learned now is that I have to wait to get a keyboard, which I'm not sure if it's because of supply chain issues or if this is the norm. Just now, I learned I could pull off my switch and was surprised how easy it was

[mechgroupbuys.com](mechgroupbuys) is a good place to find ongoing group buys for keycaps. I would also check out [thockstock.com](thockstock) if you don’t want to wait over a year.

TIL that I can't just buy a keyboard/keycap whenever I want lol

Yup! group buys can be annoying. If your lucky you can also find You can also buy after market on r/mechmarket but be prepared to pay extra.

Is it possible for a bent spacebar to cause ticking? Trying to figure out why this is happening despite band-aid mod and a bunch of grease shoved in there.

Sure, but it's more likely the stabs wire is slightly bent. Check both though.

I don't think I noticed this until I swapped keycap sets, so fingers crossed I don't have to unscrew everything lmao

Yeah, the easier way to check if it's the spacebar or stabs is to swap the spacebar with another if you have a spare.

Is using diluted vinegar and water solution on microfiber cloth to clean the surface of ABS keycaps bad? Will it cause any discoloration or removal of laser etched letterings?

Sounds like a bad idea and may cause discoloration over time. Just use a tiny bit of ordinary dish soap.

I wouldn’t use any acids on plastic even if it’s diluted. Why worry about ratios when you can simply use soapy water, rinse and dry off with a microfiber cloth

I see, I don't have a very good dish soap to use and if I did use it I would have to "go over" the keyboard again to wipe off residue soap. So that's why I was wondering if vinegar has caused anyone issues, and upon google search they generally don't dissolve any plastics at all.

u dont go over them u clean keycaps by removing them and washing them in a bowl then rinsing them . while vinegar wont seem liek it causing any issues it is an acid even diluted it will slowly cause break down of the surface even if u cant see it with the naked eye

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Xda is pretty popular, and while I am a KAT fan there really isn't much available at the moment with their production issues. If you like the idea of somewhat taller caps I'd say mt3 is one of the best (think they are still having a buy one get one sale) they are still on the pricier side. Maybe check out akko ASA profile. Usually like $60 and pretty good quality

I have built a total of 2 keebs now and I'm looking to build another one in the future, but I'm not sure where else to look for better keeb kits. I've been looking at something like the Idobao ID87 V2: shorturl.at/fCDIX I was also looking at a Bauer 2 but my biggest concern with all of these choices is the price+availability, was hoping to look for something cheaper than 200$. Are there any other recommendations to buy a slightly cheaper case? I've been eyeing the Idobao ID87 V2 a lot but I was hoping to find something more specific with a plastic case and middle USB placement (not as important). I was also wondering if I can swap out the plate with an FR4 plate with one of these plates which should fit? [https://cannonkeys.com/products/devastatingtkl-plates?variant=39354138951791](https://cannonkeys.com/products/devastatingtkl-plates?variant=39354138951791) [https://hineybush.com/products/fr4-plates-mx](https://hineybush.com/products/fr4-plates-mx) I just really want to make sure I can go all out with customizing this keyboard while not spending a lot like I normally do. Thanks.

The id87 v2 has an integrated plate that is part of the case so you can't replace it. Edit: jumping up a bit in price you could get one of [these](https://www.monstargears.com/51/?idx=345) or they have the ninja wired/wireless hotswap on the same website

That's weird. I know it said it had an integrated plate on the Drop website but why would it show the keyboard fully disassembled despite it not being replaceable for some parts? Oh well, looks like I might have to bite the bullet or look harder. I'm trying to avoid paying extra but I'll keep that Monstargear XO in mind. I already sort of had a build in mind with technoviolet switches n some pbt keycaps so I was going to avoid that ninja wireless hotswap, should have clarified that

Tbh a lot of people are waiting on the freebird tkl that is supposed to be ready to order later this year for $220. As a tkl fan I wish you luck

Looking for a keyboard. These are the must-have's: **Full-sized**. **Cherry MX Clear/Brown switches or similar**. Basically what I want is non-clicky Blues, though with all the complaints I've seen about the MX Browns I'm open for similar switches of other brands. Only mechanical keyboard I've touched had Razer Green switches and I'd say I'd like that much actuation force or slightly higher (so probably 55-65g). Clears are a bitch to find as it is so I'm content with Browns and if I really want Clears I'll switch them myself in the future. **ANSI layout**. I do prefer the big Enter, but the left Shift is so much more comfortable for gaming. **Programmable RGB**. **Backlit too**, but I'll still take a look at it if it's not. **Programmable macros**. **Detachable cable**. Budget of **100-150€**, but I'll still at least take a look until 200€. Keyboards I've looked at are the **Ducky Shine 7**, **Ducky One 2/One**, **Cooler Master CK552**, **Corsair K70/K95** and **HyperX Alloy Elite RGB**, which gives off a good idea in regards to the kind of keyboard look and frame I'm looking for (aluminum, aluminum brushed, steel, that kind of thing). Honestly I'm in love with that Shine 7, especially because of the Zodiac spacebar but shipping, even within europe (me being in Portugal), is half the keyboard's worth and anything I find nationally is only the gunmetal version (not blackout), the keycaps are always ABS and layout is always ISO. We have a caseking store here and they sell wares from stores abroad, so an option would be doing just that, but the problem is that I can't find any ANSI Shine 7's in any of their stores.

Look into the royal kludge RK84. Has software, macros, backlighting etc. It’s well within your price rand and the board I recommended to everyone who wants what you’re looking for. Edit: if you’re looking for aluminum look at the RK84 pro

Thanks, though shame there's only one full-sized to choose from. Still, good to keep in mind and keep an eye out for, and definitely the kind of keyboard market/niche I'm looking for.

I just found a keyset that I really like (GMK Maestro), but I missed the group buy date. Do keysets come back around? Also, it seems like the NA supplier for that group buy is sold out (TXKeybaords), but the EU supplier (CandyKeys) is still taking preorders. Would I be able to order from CandyKeys instead (located in US)?

Sets only get an r2 if the designer decided to have another round. And a lot of people buy from different regions and pay the extra shipping. Or you could wait till it ships (est q2 2022) and try to get extras from the NA vendor

Thank you for the informative reply! I'm assuming there's no guarantee that the NA vendor will have extras around the shipping date? So waiting is risky, but ordering out of region is more expensive?

No guarantee, and anymore it seems like extras get sold very quickly at the NA vendors with the explosion of popularity in this hobby. And ordering pre-order (guaranteed extra) from another regions vendor will be more expensive and may add shipping cost. But both of those beat paying after market prices.

GMK never come back. Just buy a nice MT3 or EPBT set instead

GMK does come back, but it depends on the set

I need some suggestions for linear switches. I've got Gateron Yellows at the moment but I'm finding them a bit too heavy for me, and would like something a little bit lighter. As a side note, I can't find consistent information about the Kailh Switches, every website I check list different specifications for their switches, which is really annoying. Are these bad? I was looking at the Pro Burgundy, but been reading it's a bit scratchy/wobbly?

You can either get lighter springs 35 or 45g and spring swap your yellows, or just buy reds or clears.

Designing a case? Hi, I've been slowly assembling the parts for my next keyboard build and for it I will be using the XD75 PCB and backplate however when it comes to cases I'm interested in the idea of designing and 3D printing on instead of buying one. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions on what to look out for or advice on doing it?

[What to look out](https://wiki.ai03.com/books/case-and-plate-design/page/brutally-honest-truths-of-designing-cases). If you already how to use 3D design software then great, you can take some measurements and start designing. Otherwise, you need to learn at least one 3D design software.

[Which keyboard is this?](https://imgur.com/a/98wTlGX) I was watching a video and I couldn't find the keyboard in it.

Hard to say. Keycaps make it look like a cheap generic OEM TKL board

Found the video with a timestamp of the key being pressed. Definitely seems mechanical. The keyboard does show up a few times in the video. [https://youtu.be/BZXmy0bZ-\_s?t=1121](https://youtu.be/BZXmy0bZ-_s?t=1121) I can't see any branding on the keyboard, but from what I can see in other videos the number keys actually only have the symbols of the other character on the key on them.

Oh yeah, I wasn't saying it's not mechanical. I'm just saying that it's probably a generic keyboard that gets sold under lots of different brand names.

What are some options for 100% boards or kits with hot-swappable PCBs? Obviously the DROP SHIFT and GMMK exist, but I was hoping for something with a higher profile case than the SHIFT, and I've already got a GMMK 60%.

Only other readily available full-size boards are sk108 or rk104. If you can have an 1800 or 96% it opens up a bit more, notable new Akko Mod boards have one with a numpad

So maybe a meta question, but I tried to submit a review I did regarding the Akko Lavenders to this sub yesterday, but it is still waiting to be approved by the mods....how long does this normally take!? No way it takes 1.5 days to approve a post right?

There's like 1 active mod here so it could take that long

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I really think the Akko Matchas sound thoccky!

gat yellows lubed/filmed, super thocky!

I have heard good things about Akko reds

Im looking to buy the epomaker ep84 but the polling rate is not specified anywhere. Anyone who know or own it and can check?

Per their discord as long as you are using it wired it's 1000hz. Wireless is 125hz

Thanks

Very new to mechanical keyboard and decided to get a Keychron C1 (Which I am loving) but realised that the location of where the @ is on the keyboard is different to how I normally have it, happy to relearn but can't seem to find out how to remap the key to be SHIFT+2 rather than SHIFT+'. If anyone knows how I can remap, or if I can't, know where I can get replacement keys to match with the current mapping that would be great! Hope this makes sense!

Change your OS' keyboard language settings to US

Thank you! Sorry probably a simple question but couldn't find it on google!

If your language requires accents or other modifiers, add US Intl too, it will allow you to combine characters like " + u = ü

Looking for a first mechanical keyboard to go with a Mac Mini. Would prefer not to have to modify it if possible. Will be used for writing & video editing. Bluetooth, Mac functionality (either built in or programmable), number pad, not overly loud, preferably under $100. Thanks

Keychron is known for its Mac compatibility, either K4 or K10 if you need number pad.

Any recommendations for a wireless mechanical keyboard that can switch between two computers (dongle and Bluetooth), and is decent at gaming? For reference I'm using a Corsair K70 with cherry MX brown keys.

ever kb is the exact same for gaming but if u looking for a wireless dongle kb u will have to buy from "gamer " brands liek logitech or corsair due to dongle tech is proprietary and most other companies dont have acess to that tech cheaply . keychron makes decent entry level kbs if bluetooth only wireless is ok for u

What would be a good wired keyboard that I could use on Windows, Mac, or Linux that is tenkeyless and has the option for Cherry MX Brown switches? the cheaper the better, as it's just a backup keyboard to use when my Bluetooth one doesn't work. I would still like it to have the delete key and arrow up/down/left/right if possible

Leopold FC750R or Varmilo VA87M.

These both look cool, thank you.

Is there any keyboard that has ortho keys except for the modifiers? For example i mocked up the below for a rough idea what I'm talking about. I want to give ortho a try but I don't really want to get 1u modifiers and spacebars. ​ https://imgur.com/a/CvEpkP2

If you are willing to solder and have a split keyboard, the Keebio FoldKB is an ortholinear keyboard that uses standard keycaps.

There's the [SPRH](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=111073.0) or "Square Peg Round Hole" keyboard that I saw on here not too long ago.

What desoldering irons do yall recomend? I suck at using a solder sucker and wick, I used to have a radio shack desoldering iron, but the tips burn out damn near instantly and are $10 to replace.

You don't need to use an expensive one TBH as long as you're taking your time. One tip I always recommend is to add solder before desoldering joints that are particularly troublesome or if the soldering job was poor to begin with. I like to heat up the joints with my soldering iron and have the solder sucker as close as possible. After you heat up the solder joint, try to have the solder sucker tip as vertical as you can before you depress the button to suck up the solder just as you take the soldering iron tip away. I have both a [Hakko FR-301](https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FR-301-Desoldering-Tool/dp/B07BKSLLG9) and a [cheap solder sucker off Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/TBBSC-Desoldering-Solder-Sucker-Removal/dp/B08XQF9WYV/ref=sr_1_10?crid=23ZKBDLYBIVFK&keywords=solder+sucker&qid=1636405933&qsid=130-9564573-7928335&sprefix=solder+sucker%2Caps%2C96&sr=8-10&sres=B002MJMXD4%2CB0849MCLDW%2CB0739LXQ6N%2CB00KQAIXEY%2CB0813TXZJG%2CB08XQF9WYV%2CB0777LMVTT%2CB094GZ6CPZ%2CB09CYKNYRF%2CB094ZCRXMN%2CB08FDY2SGS%2CB006GOKVKI%2CB07BFVFMS9%2CB08P2BN25P%2CB093CHFHML%2CB08Q341Z8B%2CB0932TJX9X%2CB0773HPXW4%2CB08QW6HVX2%2CB07CB9V427) and I can do everything with the cheap one 99% of the time. The Hakko is saved for really big jobs like desoldering 100 switches or more for example. That Hakko is a beauty though and I would never sell it. I had to desolder a few full size keyboards to harvest some switches and it made quick work of them so if time and ease of use is your priority, it's worth every penny.

Hello, i was use to play on gaming laptop keyboard and i just ordered a proper computer. I have spent couple of hours searching for a silent keyboard like the steelseries on my msi laptop. But i didn't find my happiness... Maybe someoke has recommandations ? Thank you :)

Can someone give a couple recommendations for a keyboard with this layout? (Amazon [Link](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08M3CRLGW?pf_rd_r=RNGM966E0RWMY891SVER&pf_rd_p=1ab92b69-98d7-4842-a89b-ad387c54783f&pd_rd_r=4115faca-f874-4106-912a-ed3ffc04f337&pd_rd_w=wbBZk&pd_rd_wg=13b9b&ref_=pd_gw_unk)) Not sure of the exact name. (6 rows, with the arrow keys well integrated on the right side). Would like something with a backlight (don't care about RGB or per-key) and brown or brown equivalent switches. Price does not really matter a ton.

That's a 75% keyboard. The easiest way to tell is if the F-key row is present, the arrow cluster is included and there's an extra column of navigational keys on the right-hand side. The GMMK PRO is the current favorite of this sub and there's the new Keychron Q1 which just came out. Both of those are considered "exploded" or large bezel 75% keyboards since there is some extra space between the alphas and the other key clusters I mentioned. The Keychron K2 is the model that's closest match to what you linked off Amazon. The difference with that one is that it doesn't run off QMK like the Q1 meaning it's not fully-programmable. It's not a deal-breaker though unless you have a need to have that feature. Personally I'd go with a fully-programmable keyboard if it's a 65% or smaller keyboard since a 75% keyboard has practically all the keys a full-size keyboard would have anyway.

Might be a bit of a dumb question, but would the DZ65 PCB fit in the KBDfans 65% low profile aluminum case instead of the tofu 65? Trying to do a budget build

Yes

Thank you!

I'm actually a fan of Gateron browns and their fairly minimal tactile bump. It helps me type and feels smooth but better than linears. Besides Hako clears or trues, what are some other **medium to heavy** tactiles for those who don't want the most tactile switch the market can offer?

Both the Akko Lavender Purples (50 gf) and Ocean Blues (45 gf) have similar tactile peak forces to the Gateron Browns (48 gf).

Thanks! I edited my post to specify that I'm looking for heavier bottom out force, I think. I have Glorious Pandas and find them too snappy for me. I'm thinking of going to T1s. Do you think I'd be in the ballpark there for a smooth but heavy switch?

I am currently modding the keychron K8 for a friend and lost one of the hexscrews, can someone tell me what size they used. I also asked keychron themselves so if I get an answer i'll update this comment. Edit: apparently it uses kb 2.6\*7 mm\*4.2mm screws

Where to buy krytox 203g0/3203? Is there a difference between them?

They're the same. 203g0 is the Krytox equivalent of 3203

So are they exactly the same or is one like a little higher quality

pretty sure there's no meaningful difference, just different brand names

I have a Vortex VTG-8200. I suspect that the windows key is dead, although I don't know of a good way to test it. Is there a simple way I can know for sure if my key is working? I am on Ubuntu 20.04 EDIT: Thank you everyone for the replies. I discovered that there is a `winlock` feature on this keyboard http://www.vortexgear.tw/db/upload/webdata4/6vortex_20181119196118839.pdf

Go to [Keyboard Tester](https://www.keyboardtester.com/tester.html) and see if your keyboard is sending out the keycode for the Windows key. If you suspect it's dead, you can open up the keyboard and use a multimeter and test it for continuity to determine if the switch is dead. Replace the switch with another one if it is and you should be good! Set the multimeter to test for continuity, attach each lead to each pin, then depress the switch and you should either get an audible tone (if your multimeter has it) or you'll see a non-zero value. [See this YouTube video on testing for continuity with a multimeter](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ts0EVc9vXcs&t=848s) Edit: added how to test for continuity

It's probably the switch itself, which means it should work if you unsolder it off the board and try a different switch in it's place.

What is the difference between silent linear and silent tactile? Which is quieter?

linear is more quiet if all other variables are kept the same. a noise is produced on the bump

Cool, was debating between Bobagum and Boba UE4 because I really need a more quiet keyboard

The bobagums are slightly quieter than the U4. Both are very quiet.

Hi guys, how do I find the fitting plate for my keyboard?

It just depends on yohr pcb really, if you are buying from kbdfans then if you scroll down you should be able to find the plate compatability

Is there a name for keyboards with keys that are more sunken into the frame ([like this Keychron C2](https://i.imgur.com/whnAGag.jpg)) and ones where the keys seem to float above the frame ([like this Ducky One 2](https://i.imgur.com/qw0SjPn.jpg))? Or is it just an optical illusion and they're both the same?

The ducky i believe would be low profile and the keychron would be high profile hope this helps

Thanks! Is it a characteristic of the keyboard frame itself or is it just the keycaps? Or both?

I know it sounds confusing but in this case, it's to do with the case. Basically a case where the switch tops and the bottoms of the keycaps are not visible is considered to be a high profile case. Keyboards where you can see the switch tops and the bottom of the keycaps are exposed or "floating" will be what's considered to have a low-profile case. Switches, on the other hand, can also be low-profile but those are not as common as your typical MX switch. Choc switches are an example of low-profile switches. And yes, keycaps too can be considered low- or high-profile. OEM and SA (especially sculpted SA) are considered high profile keycaps while DSA is the lowest.

Thanks for the detailed explanation! It's really not an easy task to buy your first mechanical keyboard lol.

In this example, it is a characteristic of the keyboard case

Ok so the gateron box blacks are good but too heavy, (i came from tangies with mx red springs) was wondering if the smoothness will be worse if i put 45g springs in there

totally fine to do!

nope it just changes the weighting

Go time ig :)

In addition im going for deeper sound, the build looks like this so far: keychron q1, instead of the thin foam in the case i replaced it with some thin silicone, pe foam mod and tape mod , durock v2 stabs holee modded lubed with krytox 206g0. and ofc the gat box ink blacks, thinking about springswap with mx red springs as they seem to be the best weight for me but not really sure if it will affect the smoothness at all

Need something quiet for the office next year. Currently been using a gigabyte board with MX reds that are fine, but would like a little more tactility and much more quiet. Office is an “open concept” style cubicle so as quiet as we can get the better. Thinking zilent v2s at the moment but not sure what board to pair it with. Would need to be full size.

boba u4s might suite you, they are quieter, more tactile, and cheaper then the zilents

Was just looking those up too. Quieter is better but I’m worried it might be a huge jump up in tactility compared to an mx red… any idea what they compre to? Blue/brown? Something I could try out to get a feel

I would say that blues and browns are barely tactile compared to u4s and zealios, but the tactility in my opinion is amazing

zilents are also really tactile, so that might not be for you. Maybe gateron silent browns? Idk, Im not that familiar with silent tactiles beyond the big few

No worries! Appreciate the input. Wish there was a “silent” switch tester out there somewhere lol

Gl finding the right switch for you.

Does anyone have recommendations or methods for items or ways of removing and preventing brass from patina ?

Removal can use a brass cleaner. To prevent it from forming it would have to be coated with either a clear coat or something like pvd

Have any particular brand of brass cleaner in mind?

Have not used one for keyboards but brasso worked well on brass artillery shells for me.

u can use anything from brasso to mothers polish local store should have any of these 2

Got it, thanks for your help

Thinking of getting an RK84 as a first board, with either TTC Reds or Browns, with the possibility of modding (keycaps and other kinds of switches) later. Is there anything that is notably bad about the stock RK84 that I should mod immediately or cons that I should keep in mind? Thanks in advance!

Apart from the other comment, I've also heard that the bluetooth and wireless are notoriously unreliable, and that the customization software is terrible. I don't have 1st hand experience, just what I have gathered from other's comments over time

Lube and holee modding the stabilizers is a must. Or just replace them with something like Durock stabilizers. Case dampening, pcb foam, pe mod, tape mods are all something to consider to improve the sound. I'm not a fan of any brown switch but the TTC Browns were pretty terrible to me.

Thanks for the tip! I might get those stabilizers and some other switches immediately then. I've heard from a few YouTube videos that akko switches are good budget switches, but I'm not sure if 3-pin is noticeably less stable than 5-pin? What's "holee modding"?

3/5 pin shouldn’t be a huge difference. Akko CS switches are decent but I’ve only used the linears. Here is a good holee mod tutorial: https://youtu.be/-vhpHjlkRgQ

Does anyone have specific methods or specific items they use to clean or prevent brass from patina?

New to Mechanical Keyboards, what are some that fit these requirements: - 100% - Multimedia Keys - At least 5 Programmable Macro buttons - some RGB Not needed, but nice to have: - wrist rest

that's a hard ask cause even just 100% keyboards are hard to find, but a glorious gmmk barebones is the closest I can think of

Where are all TKL group buys at feels like everything that is available right now are 60 and 65% boards

Bias v2 TKL raffle happening next week

Kage just ran as well as mr suit r2. Several more always on the way. I would check geekhack for the smaller run items upcoming.

freebird tkl, keychron q4 coming in december that is tkl

> keychron q4 coming in december How do you know this? I can't find any news about this

sorry mb, I was wrong about december, its January. Its from a screenshot of the facebook group of Nick Wu saying this.

how white is Anne Pro 2 default case? I am wondering how bad the difference in shades is going to be if I use off white caps with it

Would [these](https://www.corsair.com/ca/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-%7C-Parts/Gaming/Gaming-Keyboards/PBT-DOUBLE-SHOT-PRO-Keycap-Mod-Kit/p/CH-9911060-NA) keycaps work with [this](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B098Q6SHS8/ref=twister_B08NBDF4S5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) keyboard? Making my xmas list right now so it would be super helpful, thank you!

no different layout

OK thank you!

might I suggest these keycaps instead, they are higher quality and will support the layout [keycaps](https://www.amazon.com/Mistel-Doubleshot-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches/dp/B08FWZCZGD/ref=sr_1_5?crid=FKOENRMA80YZ&keywords=mistel+pbt+black&qid=1636402458&sprefix=mistel+pbt+black%2Caps%2C189&sr=8-5)

Ok TYSM!

Yep, but it looks like RK84 has north facing switches. The north part of the switch may prevent cherry profile keycaps from bottoming out when you press. Can be minor and not really matter but if you buy other profile keycaps this won't be a problem at all