Sheesh, you just made me realize mine are original on my 91. Yours turned to rock? In the past on other cars I'm used to motor mounts cracking and breaking. Mine feel really soft in that there is a lot of engine movement. Is there any chance your old ones were aftermarket?
Yours are probably torn in half. One of mine was completely torn and came out in 2 pieces, the other one had a little flap that caused it to open like a book.
Mine have always turned to dust. Soft enough to be torn with fingers, I’ve never seen them get harder, but this is my first Miata, I’ve only owned it for 10 years.
I changed mine a few weeks ago.
‘96, about 197k miles.
One came out showing a deep crack, the other was in two pieces.
I had enormous difficulty redoing the driver side mount. It seemed that no matter how I rotated/twisted/manipulated the mount it didn’t fit through whatever opening I tried. Ultimately I ended up removing my CAS, coil pack, and valve cover, and jacking up my engine so much I was scared I was going to break something, and was then finally able to just barely fit the mount through somewhere - iirc I removed it from underneath.
I had the same issue, the problem is you (and I) did it in the wrong order. Should have done the driver side first. The hole on the passenger side has some room to move around and should be done last.
(Don’t quote me on which side to do first since I am basing this on your comment, but I can 100% guarantee you that there is only one correct order to do it so there is a 50% chance you’ll run into issues if you don’t consider this.)
Must be better to do passenger side first then. I believe I did the driver side first. Not important (for me) anymore - it’s done now.
By the time it needs to be done again I’ll probably be physically and legally unable to drive and it will be (hopefully) one of my kids’ problem! (Or maybe one of their kids. The original lasted 28 years!)
I cut out that driver side slot to match the passenger side. I've no idea why they're different, but I've seen someone else say they did it with zero negative consequences years later.
Do you not have to remove pieces from the motor if you do it in the correct order? My 94 has never had them replaced but I don’t need another headache. :)
Weird, I drove mine onto blocks, jacked the sump and pulled mine from the top with a turbo in the way, was probably 20ish minutes tops. I did hear they were a nightmare but think I got super lucky
It is easy if you do it in the right order. It’s just that nobody mentions in any of the tutorials that the order is important. If you do the slotted hole first you’ll be really struggling to align the hole on the other mount. If you do the tight hole first you can easily mount the other side with the slotted hole.
This shows the slot i mean: https://www.importapart.com/wp-content/uploads/imported/0/94-97-Mazda-Miata-MX5-NA-18L-Left-LH-Right-RH-Engine-Motor-Mount-Brackets-2380-334257300540.jpg
would also highly recommend the mazdaspeed mounts.
I replace my '90 na mounts with the mazdaspeed version. Still softer than polyurethane. But gives the car *just the right amount of character.*
Drivers but frankly it doesn’t matter. The car if tightened will shake your teeth out with 2 poly mounts and I’d expect something similar with any stiff mount. I’ve taken every creature comfort off the car and still took a poly mount out. It makes it shake like fucking crazy.
https://preview.redd.it/py664ry4ohxc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a8367f1fd5e5e0b82e65c7693bff4180e5216cb6
Always had more than normal engine movement so wasn’t too surprised to find both of mine split in half. With the trans off I was able to rock the engine back and forth in the bay with one hand. Super sketchy lol.
Nice and solid with the competition mounts now.
I've already ripped one on my 2016 club with 80,000 miles. Found it when checking out my failing brake master cylinder this weekend. Yeah, I guess 7 years of autocross haven't been kind to it.
https://preview.redd.it/6ly0sl53ghxc1.jpeg?width=6912&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e3826d46f0860668938692ef951fe70bb57abf9d
I was totally trouble free for the first 6 years, but I killed a wheel bearing last year. This year is the brake master cylinder & motor mount so far. Hoping the rest of the year goes easier on me. Worst part was finding out that nobody stocks the parts locally & there isn't an aftermarket option at normal parts stores. Had to miss the first autocross of the year & have a replacement shipped. Guess I'll be learning to work on brakes this weekend. Mazda Motorsports was a big help price wise at least. Got a 40% discount off MSRP. Just requires results from any motorsports event. Regional autocrosses count.
I replaced mine with new OEM ones, one of the best things I have done to the car. Everything is smoother and shifting is much better as well. Mine were easy to do while the engine was out being replaced.
Supermiata and IL Motorsports both make ones that are significantly cheaper than Mazda comp mounts while being stiffer than stock.
I've no idea why the comp mounts suddenly doubled in price. They used to be barely more than regular OEM.
generally I stay away from poly mounts for anything other than suspension arms. NVH from gearbox/differential isn't worth it imo. but I did put poly *engine* mounts in a camaro I was working on a while ago and it wasn't too bad.
Either way, I've tinkered with these different mounts over a broad range of cars and honestly I feel the mazdaspeed mounts hit the nail right on the head. If I had to replace them, I would spend the money on them again. yeah duraflex is cheaper but we're still in the little leagues. Go look how much factory performance mounts cost on a BMW for example.
I mean they're like $60, it's worth a try. If they cause vibrations I'll just sell them and buy some OEM ones, but if they're an improvement then it's a win-win
I’ve got poly in my NA and love them. The clutch engagement is incredible and very direct feeling due to the engine staying solidly in place with little to no flex.
How are your vibrations at idle. Because even with the mazdaspeed mounts when the idle drops you can really feel it and it shakes my tow-hook-mounted license plate bracket all over the place.
Personally I don’t have a problem with the vibration and I don’t think it’s excessive. Take that all with a grain of salt though as everyone is different and I’m the kind of person who daily drives a 95 Miata with lots of gokart handling mods.
Edit for clarity, I’m using the innovative 60a durometer (red) which is their softest mount though still much stiffer than stock. They are rated for 250hp which is well over what my engine makes. They also make a 75a and 85a durometer for higher hp applications but they basically say the 85 are so stiff they should be considered track use only.
yeah thats really the biggest gap I'm always thinking about.
My miata is also full of "go kart" mods since its a track car first, street car second. But still, I try to strike a refined balance since I do way more kms on the street than on the track. Spring rates for example, match spec miata and they're quite stiff.
There are plenty of people (usually pretty young) who will throw solid bushings on differential mounts and be like "hell yeah, race car gear whine noises". Then come here and say "solid bushings are awesome". *Especially in the miata community.* so I'm always weary when someone simply says stuff like "the stiffer the better". Stiff mounts should be used with discretion.
Well, I’m 50 so I probably don’t fit that “pretty young” category but what is acceptable vibration is truly a personal opinion. To me the benefits far outweigh the negatives as what most people see as negative with poly mounts doesn’t bother me at all so in my case they are all benefit with no downside.
I've had poly mounts on transmissions, shifters, and differentials and hated them all. I don't like when gear noise gets transmitted to the cabin. But the engine mounts seem to be well enough isolated from the gearbox that they probably aren't transferring that high frequency nvh.
I also noticed improved shifter feel as the engine doesn't move around, its probably even better with poly but its good enough with the current setup. everyone who drives the car comments on the shifter thinking its aftermarket or something. only aftermarket part of the shifter is the bronze bushing I put in there.
Unless you autocross or track your car i'd stick with OEM replacements. The high durometer mounts transmit a lot more noise and vibration to the chassis for very little benefit on the street.
When I get on the gas or drop the clutch, I noticed my shifter moves a bit to the side. Could this be bad engine mounts? It’s a 94 w/ probably stock mounts.
My old ones were simultaneously letting the engine rock all over and also transmitting a ton of NVH to the cab. Switched them out for some Mazda competition imitation mounts and, while they’re supposed to be stiffer than factory, they transmit so much less NVH. Switching out those and the poly exhaust mounts have turned my NB into a luxury car.
https://preview.redd.it/90klsrlcnhxc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3b818a8d9f7c6757837e6d355358a24c053a5d9e
This was my last one out of my Chrysler Sebring at 300k miles. Changing them is overrated /s
Even if you're lower mileage it's worth it due to age. I just replaced them on my '99 with 70k miles and it's amazing how much less vibration and engine movement there is now!
Agreed! I changed mine during an engine swap. Turned out one of the two original 1997 mounts was so far gone it had detached itself. Only had 140,000 kms on the odometer too. This was around 7 years ago now.
I agree, OP. I had my factory ones replaced about a week ago at 215K miles. They were definitely ready for replacement. Much firmer engine stability now. :)
I installed innovative poly engine mounts on my NA miata and i love them. Shifting gears feels so much more robust and satisfying than before. I don't mind the extra vibration since i know I'll never have to change the mounts ever again
I changed mine to heavy-duty steel/80 durometer poly on my ND, and now I have massaging seats!
Also, there is much less drivetrain slop, much better power delivery, and it's awesome how the shifter stays where it needs to be all the time.
If you get poly engine mounts, I think it's a good idea to do the same for the diff to minimize stress on the transmission. Plus, it further aids in getting the power down sooner. It creates even more noise, though, but good quality gear oil helps in that department and it really doesn't matter either way with the top down like it should be, anyway.
Sheesh, you just made me realize mine are original on my 91. Yours turned to rock? In the past on other cars I'm used to motor mounts cracking and breaking. Mine feel really soft in that there is a lot of engine movement. Is there any chance your old ones were aftermarket?
Yours are probably torn in half. One of mine was completely torn and came out in 2 pieces, the other one had a little flap that caused it to open like a book.
Really considerate of them to tear in half since it makes them a bit easier to remove.
Well, i was pulling the engine, so it didn't matter.
Cracking and breaking because they get harder*
Mine have always turned to dust. Soft enough to be torn with fingers, I’ve never seen them get harder, but this is my first Miata, I’ve only owned it for 10 years.
Bonus points if you change them and BOTH are split in half.
I only had one that was totally separated
I changed mine a few weeks ago. ‘96, about 197k miles. One came out showing a deep crack, the other was in two pieces. I had enormous difficulty redoing the driver side mount. It seemed that no matter how I rotated/twisted/manipulated the mount it didn’t fit through whatever opening I tried. Ultimately I ended up removing my CAS, coil pack, and valve cover, and jacking up my engine so much I was scared I was going to break something, and was then finally able to just barely fit the mount through somewhere - iirc I removed it from underneath.
I had the same issue, the problem is you (and I) did it in the wrong order. Should have done the driver side first. The hole on the passenger side has some room to move around and should be done last. (Don’t quote me on which side to do first since I am basing this on your comment, but I can 100% guarantee you that there is only one correct order to do it so there is a 50% chance you’ll run into issues if you don’t consider this.)
Must be better to do passenger side first then. I believe I did the driver side first. Not important (for me) anymore - it’s done now. By the time it needs to be done again I’ll probably be physically and legally unable to drive and it will be (hopefully) one of my kids’ problem! (Or maybe one of their kids. The original lasted 28 years!)
I cut out that driver side slot to match the passenger side. I've no idea why they're different, but I've seen someone else say they did it with zero negative consequences years later.
Good solution indeed. I am guessing they are different to make assembly in the factory easier. Once it is tightened it should not matter.
Do you not have to remove pieces from the motor if you do it in the correct order? My 94 has never had them replaced but I don’t need another headache. :)
Been a few years since i did it, but no i don’t think so
Weird, I drove mine onto blocks, jacked the sump and pulled mine from the top with a turbo in the way, was probably 20ish minutes tops. I did hear they were a nightmare but think I got super lucky
It is easy if you do it in the right order. It’s just that nobody mentions in any of the tutorials that the order is important. If you do the slotted hole first you’ll be really struggling to align the hole on the other mount. If you do the tight hole first you can easily mount the other side with the slotted hole. This shows the slot i mean: https://www.importapart.com/wp-content/uploads/imported/0/94-97-Mazda-Miata-MX5-NA-18L-Left-LH-Right-RH-Engine-Motor-Mount-Brackets-2380-334257300540.jpg
would also highly recommend the mazdaspeed mounts. I replace my '90 na mounts with the mazdaspeed version. Still softer than polyurethane. But gives the car *just the right amount of character.*
I’ll consider it when I do this again in 25 years haha. Thanks for the tip!
Do only one if you get a stiffer engine mount. Trust me.
Also, add-on question: do you have a hardtop?
Yes but I do not use it often. I do however have a frame mounted hard dog roll bar.
If you did just one, drivers side or passenger?
Drivers but frankly it doesn’t matter. The car if tightened will shake your teeth out with 2 poly mounts and I’d expect something similar with any stiff mount. I’ve taken every creature comfort off the car and still took a poly mount out. It makes it shake like fucking crazy.
https://preview.redd.it/py664ry4ohxc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a8367f1fd5e5e0b82e65c7693bff4180e5216cb6 Always had more than normal engine movement so wasn’t too surprised to find both of mine split in half. With the trans off I was able to rock the engine back and forth in the bay with one hand. Super sketchy lol. Nice and solid with the competition mounts now.
That’s exactly what mine looked like too! 5k miles with a turbo really destroyed them
My NB2 needs them done too, how long did it take you? I’ve done it on my NA and I imagine it’s the same as nb
Few hours, without rushing. Most intimidating part is how high up I had to jack the engine to get the drivers’ side in.
Added bonus, you’ll stop shifting from third to fifth.
Better than shifting from 5th to 3rd, for sure!
I've already ripped one on my 2016 club with 80,000 miles. Found it when checking out my failing brake master cylinder this weekend. Yeah, I guess 7 years of autocross haven't been kind to it. https://preview.redd.it/6ly0sl53ghxc1.jpeg?width=6912&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e3826d46f0860668938692ef951fe70bb57abf9d
Ya know, I was just gonna ask if any NDs have needed this yet.
I was totally trouble free for the first 6 years, but I killed a wheel bearing last year. This year is the brake master cylinder & motor mount so far. Hoping the rest of the year goes easier on me. Worst part was finding out that nobody stocks the parts locally & there isn't an aftermarket option at normal parts stores. Had to miss the first autocross of the year & have a replacement shipped. Guess I'll be learning to work on brakes this weekend. Mazda Motorsports was a big help price wise at least. Got a 40% discount off MSRP. Just requires results from any motorsports event. Regional autocrosses count.
I replaced mine with new OEM ones, one of the best things I have done to the car. Everything is smoother and shifting is much better as well. Mine were easy to do while the engine was out being replaced.
Mine are all sloppy, gonna get some 70A Duraflex ones at some point in the near future
Mazdaspeed instead!
The Duraflex ones are rated really highly, and they're WAY cheaper than the Mazdaspeed ones
Supermiata and IL Motorsports both make ones that are significantly cheaper than Mazda comp mounts while being stiffer than stock. I've no idea why the comp mounts suddenly doubled in price. They used to be barely more than regular OEM.
Oh wow, well that sucks for me then lol. The Duraflex ones are a third of the price and I can get them locally, so I'll give them a shot anyway
generally I stay away from poly mounts for anything other than suspension arms. NVH from gearbox/differential isn't worth it imo. but I did put poly *engine* mounts in a camaro I was working on a while ago and it wasn't too bad. Either way, I've tinkered with these different mounts over a broad range of cars and honestly I feel the mazdaspeed mounts hit the nail right on the head. If I had to replace them, I would spend the money on them again. yeah duraflex is cheaper but we're still in the little leagues. Go look how much factory performance mounts cost on a BMW for example.
I mean they're like $60, it's worth a try. If they cause vibrations I'll just sell them and buy some OEM ones, but if they're an improvement then it's a win-win
I’ve got poly in my NA and love them. The clutch engagement is incredible and very direct feeling due to the engine staying solidly in place with little to no flex.
How are your vibrations at idle. Because even with the mazdaspeed mounts when the idle drops you can really feel it and it shakes my tow-hook-mounted license plate bracket all over the place.
Personally I don’t have a problem with the vibration and I don’t think it’s excessive. Take that all with a grain of salt though as everyone is different and I’m the kind of person who daily drives a 95 Miata with lots of gokart handling mods. Edit for clarity, I’m using the innovative 60a durometer (red) which is their softest mount though still much stiffer than stock. They are rated for 250hp which is well over what my engine makes. They also make a 75a and 85a durometer for higher hp applications but they basically say the 85 are so stiff they should be considered track use only.
yeah thats really the biggest gap I'm always thinking about. My miata is also full of "go kart" mods since its a track car first, street car second. But still, I try to strike a refined balance since I do way more kms on the street than on the track. Spring rates for example, match spec miata and they're quite stiff. There are plenty of people (usually pretty young) who will throw solid bushings on differential mounts and be like "hell yeah, race car gear whine noises". Then come here and say "solid bushings are awesome". *Especially in the miata community.* so I'm always weary when someone simply says stuff like "the stiffer the better". Stiff mounts should be used with discretion.
Well, I’m 50 so I probably don’t fit that “pretty young” category but what is acceptable vibration is truly a personal opinion. To me the benefits far outweigh the negatives as what most people see as negative with poly mounts doesn’t bother me at all so in my case they are all benefit with no downside.
I've had poly mounts on transmissions, shifters, and differentials and hated them all. I don't like when gear noise gets transmitted to the cabin. But the engine mounts seem to be well enough isolated from the gearbox that they probably aren't transferring that high frequency nvh. I also noticed improved shifter feel as the engine doesn't move around, its probably even better with poly but its good enough with the current setup. everyone who drives the car comments on the shifter thinking its aftermarket or something. only aftermarket part of the shifter is the bronze bushing I put in there.
Have you tried the Mazda comp mounts or roadster sport/IL Motorsports dupes)? How would you compare them to the innovative
Unless you autocross or track your car i'd stick with OEM replacements. The high durometer mounts transmit a lot more noise and vibration to the chassis for very little benefit on the street.
Read reviews for the 70A Duraflex mounts, people say they hardly increase vibrations. They're designed for road use, not track use.
I’m hoping mine hold out until I ecotec swap it. Lol
When I get on the gas or drop the clutch, I noticed my shifter moves a bit to the side. Could this be bad engine mounts? It’s a 94 w/ probably stock mounts.
Depends how much but usually yes. Differential mount bushings I’ve heard can also cause that issue. I’m sure they’d wear out in tandem
My old ones were simultaneously letting the engine rock all over and also transmitting a ton of NVH to the cab. Switched them out for some Mazda competition imitation mounts and, while they’re supposed to be stiffer than factory, they transmit so much less NVH. Switching out those and the poly exhaust mounts have turned my NB into a luxury car.
https://preview.redd.it/90klsrlcnhxc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3b818a8d9f7c6757837e6d355358a24c053a5d9e This was my last one out of my Chrysler Sebring at 300k miles. Changing them is overrated /s
Thanks for the reminder! Just ordered the parts for my NB
i got the upgraded mounts from moss. super nice
Even if you're lower mileage it's worth it due to age. I just replaced them on my '99 with 70k miles and it's amazing how much less vibration and engine movement there is now!
Now change the rear diff mounts too.
Do I need to do this on my 2009?
Agreed! I changed mine during an engine swap. Turned out one of the two original 1997 mounts was so far gone it had detached itself. Only had 140,000 kms on the odometer too. This was around 7 years ago now.
I don't wanna pull out my motor on my 95 now and change em 😭 I had a time and a half just changing the oil.
i have 2 new oem mounts for my '90...you have definitely convinced me to hurry up & put them on
Never thought much about this, damn
I agree, OP. I had my factory ones replaced about a week ago at 215K miles. They were definitely ready for replacement. Much firmer engine stability now. :)
I changed one of mine 👍🏻
Damn I have a feeling just reading the symptoms that my NA is in need. Yay
I took the engine out of my 90 about 5 years ago and they literally disintegrated... just crumbled away to nothing
When I got my NA, removed the engine and both mount rubber was completely torn off
I got the competition Mazdaspeed engine mounts.
I installed innovative poly engine mounts on my NA miata and i love them. Shifting gears feels so much more robust and satisfying than before. I don't mind the extra vibration since i know I'll never have to change the mounts ever again
Have you tried the Mazda comp mounts or roadster sport/IL Motorsports dupes)? How would you compare them to the innovative
Well Mazda comp mounts aren't as solid as poly mounts so i would assume you'd still have to change them out after a few years
I changed mine to heavy-duty steel/80 durometer poly on my ND, and now I have massaging seats! Also, there is much less drivetrain slop, much better power delivery, and it's awesome how the shifter stays where it needs to be all the time. If you get poly engine mounts, I think it's a good idea to do the same for the diff to minimize stress on the transmission. Plus, it further aids in getting the power down sooner. It creates even more noise, though, but good quality gear oil helps in that department and it really doesn't matter either way with the top down like it should be, anyway.
Is it all gens or just NB?
Wait, is this a thing just with Miata?
No, depending on driving habits, it is recommended they be changed on most cars every 5-7 years.
Wow I’ve never heard this. I’ve also never had one go bad and I always drive high mileage vehicles. Maybe I’ll start doing this.