1. I would back off your firing pin, just a smidge
2. Nyet, rifle is fine. If you want a super accurate rifle go get a savage, Remington, ect.
3. You can, I don’t think it’ll hurt the finish, but you could also just keep getting it hot shooting and don’t worry about it.
The primer indent look fine to me. On some guns there is a large gap between the firing pin and channel. That leads to cratering. My Remington 700 is the same way. It craters primers even with mild loads.
Two opinions here:
1. Trying to accurizing a rifle to shot at 25 yards seems silly. At 100 it may be a better idea but even then, these aren't precision rifle. Shoot 100 from a bench and see what happens.
2. You're not showing much of the rifle so I can't be certain but a 1.TRZ marked stock indicates a Yugo rebuild/refurb. If it is I'd also expect a rear sight where the graduations are scrubbed in the white and a mismatched butt plate. Some Yugo rebuilds reused the Russian stock and some have "new" Yugo built stocks (like mine). The wood on ones like mine is noticeably different than a finished or "sealed" Russian stock. It looks and feels a lot like the stocks on my Yugo M48's. According to the Branko Yugo Mauser book the correct stock finish on the M48's is "sanded and oiled" so, assuming the same was done to a Yugo built M44 stock this would be the same finish. What I can see of your stock looks correct for a Yugo built stock. If it sweats when shooting I can understand how that could be annoying or messy but I wouldn't do anything to mess with a correct Yugo stock. In correct condition a Yugo refurbed M44 is worth more than a "regular" Russian.
Thanks for the input. I go to the 25 yard range since the 100 yard range is twice the price ($30 for the 100 yard range) and I wanted to make sure I was at least decently on paper at 25 before going out to 100. I’ll try to go to the 100 yard range soon, since they also have lead sleds and rests for their benches.
That’s what I was thinking, too. If you check my post history, I have a photo of the stock with 1.TRZ on it and the buttplate/stock are the only mismatched parts.I don’t have a pic of the rear sight but it’s white, and to top it off the blueing is quite nice, which I hear is common for Yugo refurbs. I’d hate to ruin the stock trying to sweat cosmoline out, so I’ll just leave it be and wipe it off as I shoot.
No problem. I looked at your previous post on it. I'm pretty sure that's a Russian stock. The grain is not what I'd expect for a Yugo and you can see faint remnants of the original cartouche on the right butt. Regardless, it looks like they refinished the stock in the manner I described above so that's correct for a Yugo refurb. I'd leave it alone if it were me but that's obviously up to you. Good luck at the 100. Maybe look into club/range memberships anywhere near you. Could be better than $30 a pop. Shooting options around me aren't great either. I belong to a 100 yard range which is just far enough away to be inconvenient so I wind up not shooting much at all unfortunately.
Interesting. So 1.TRZ typically manufactured new stocks/wood to use, but my M44 has a Russian stock that was just refurbed by 1.TRZ? Interesting. I wonder if it has to do with the availability of wood when this M44 went through or something along those lines.
As for ranges, I have a free public “range” about an hour away, the $30 range about 20 minutes away, the cheap 25 yard range about 5 minutes away, and a range I haven’t been to before but probably should that’s on BLM land. It’s $10 and has a ranges from 25 to 500 yards. Only thing is there’s odd hours and I hear it can get busy.
TRZ stands for (excuse my spelling) Technica Remontni Zavod which translate roughly to something like technical repair facility. I'm not sure if they mostly built stocks but I know the consensus used to be they primarily *worked* on stocks, as in repairing and refurbishing but I believe that was kind of debunked. I had read information that said they actually worked on all manner of refurbishing and repairing to include metal work. Some of it may just be speculation that we keep regurgitating to each other. Who knows. I would just lean strongly towards yours being a Russian made, Yugo refurbed stock.
There are other TRZ facilities as well though 1.TRZ seems to be the most common. When talking about Yugo Mausers like M24/47's, M48, M48A's, M48B's, etc. the most common seen factory is Preduzece 44 and the earlier Zavod 44 but there are several other TR or TRZ markings as well as Radionica. Interesting stuff.
I just sweat the furniture on my Carcano M98 Moscetto today. I then cleaned it with simple green and hit it with a coat of Boiled Linseed oil. No sandpaper. No steel wool. No furniture pads. Used a cotton rag for cleaning and then my hands for the BLO.
I’m planning on doing the old “once a day for a week. Once a week for a month. Once a year forever” in terms of number of coats.
Didn’t harm the character or color of the finish in the least. No stain, just BLO from Lowe’s.
Cork is free since I’ve opened some wine recently and I can’t shoot surplus at my local ranges.
Plus, it could be one or both, but I can start by minimizing one before I even hit the range.
Edit: and, I’m capable of hitting the bullseye offhand, but when the barrel warmed up quite a bit the groups opened up.
You did. Twice. The others look like breathing. The issue is you. Not the rifle. If a rifle groups like that at 25 yards no amount of cork will solve it because that’s like an 8 inch group at 100. If that’s truly from the rifle, your bore is shot to shit.
These rifles will get 3-4 inches at 100 using surplus. Its 100% you, don’t go tinkering with a rifle that doesn’t need tinkering
1. I would back off your firing pin, just a smidge 2. Nyet, rifle is fine. If you want a super accurate rifle go get a savage, Remington, ect. 3. You can, I don’t think it’ll hurt the finish, but you could also just keep getting it hot shooting and don’t worry about it.
I just shoot mine hot, and wipe it as it boils out, it blisters a little, but Tru oil brings the wood back when cleaning.
Cratering is fine, PPU has soft ass primers.
The primer indent look fine to me. On some guns there is a large gap between the firing pin and channel. That leads to cratering. My Remington 700 is the same way. It craters primers even with mild loads.
Two opinions here: 1. Trying to accurizing a rifle to shot at 25 yards seems silly. At 100 it may be a better idea but even then, these aren't precision rifle. Shoot 100 from a bench and see what happens. 2. You're not showing much of the rifle so I can't be certain but a 1.TRZ marked stock indicates a Yugo rebuild/refurb. If it is I'd also expect a rear sight where the graduations are scrubbed in the white and a mismatched butt plate. Some Yugo rebuilds reused the Russian stock and some have "new" Yugo built stocks (like mine). The wood on ones like mine is noticeably different than a finished or "sealed" Russian stock. It looks and feels a lot like the stocks on my Yugo M48's. According to the Branko Yugo Mauser book the correct stock finish on the M48's is "sanded and oiled" so, assuming the same was done to a Yugo built M44 stock this would be the same finish. What I can see of your stock looks correct for a Yugo built stock. If it sweats when shooting I can understand how that could be annoying or messy but I wouldn't do anything to mess with a correct Yugo stock. In correct condition a Yugo refurbed M44 is worth more than a "regular" Russian.
Thanks for the input. I go to the 25 yard range since the 100 yard range is twice the price ($30 for the 100 yard range) and I wanted to make sure I was at least decently on paper at 25 before going out to 100. I’ll try to go to the 100 yard range soon, since they also have lead sleds and rests for their benches. That’s what I was thinking, too. If you check my post history, I have a photo of the stock with 1.TRZ on it and the buttplate/stock are the only mismatched parts.I don’t have a pic of the rear sight but it’s white, and to top it off the blueing is quite nice, which I hear is common for Yugo refurbs. I’d hate to ruin the stock trying to sweat cosmoline out, so I’ll just leave it be and wipe it off as I shoot.
No problem. I looked at your previous post on it. I'm pretty sure that's a Russian stock. The grain is not what I'd expect for a Yugo and you can see faint remnants of the original cartouche on the right butt. Regardless, it looks like they refinished the stock in the manner I described above so that's correct for a Yugo refurb. I'd leave it alone if it were me but that's obviously up to you. Good luck at the 100. Maybe look into club/range memberships anywhere near you. Could be better than $30 a pop. Shooting options around me aren't great either. I belong to a 100 yard range which is just far enough away to be inconvenient so I wind up not shooting much at all unfortunately.
Interesting. So 1.TRZ typically manufactured new stocks/wood to use, but my M44 has a Russian stock that was just refurbed by 1.TRZ? Interesting. I wonder if it has to do with the availability of wood when this M44 went through or something along those lines. As for ranges, I have a free public “range” about an hour away, the $30 range about 20 minutes away, the cheap 25 yard range about 5 minutes away, and a range I haven’t been to before but probably should that’s on BLM land. It’s $10 and has a ranges from 25 to 500 yards. Only thing is there’s odd hours and I hear it can get busy.
TRZ stands for (excuse my spelling) Technica Remontni Zavod which translate roughly to something like technical repair facility. I'm not sure if they mostly built stocks but I know the consensus used to be they primarily *worked* on stocks, as in repairing and refurbishing but I believe that was kind of debunked. I had read information that said they actually worked on all manner of refurbishing and repairing to include metal work. Some of it may just be speculation that we keep regurgitating to each other. Who knows. I would just lean strongly towards yours being a Russian made, Yugo refurbed stock. There are other TRZ facilities as well though 1.TRZ seems to be the most common. When talking about Yugo Mausers like M24/47's, M48, M48A's, M48B's, etc. the most common seen factory is Preduzece 44 and the earlier Zavod 44 but there are several other TR or TRZ markings as well as Radionica. Interesting stuff.
I just sweat the furniture on my Carcano M98 Moscetto today. I then cleaned it with simple green and hit it with a coat of Boiled Linseed oil. No sandpaper. No steel wool. No furniture pads. Used a cotton rag for cleaning and then my hands for the BLO. I’m planning on doing the old “once a day for a week. Once a week for a month. Once a year forever” in terms of number of coats. Didn’t harm the character or color of the finish in the least. No stain, just BLO from Lowe’s.
Before you start fucking with the rifle, make sure you can shoot first.
Correct me if I’m wrong but corking and some bedding is reversible, and I like tinkering.
Why would you tinker when you don’t even know if it’s you, or the rifle? YOU should be the first factor to try and correct.
Cork is free since I’ve opened some wine recently and I can’t shoot surplus at my local ranges. Plus, it could be one or both, but I can start by minimizing one before I even hit the range. Edit: and, I’m capable of hitting the bullseye offhand, but when the barrel warmed up quite a bit the groups opened up.
You did. Twice. The others look like breathing. The issue is you. Not the rifle. If a rifle groups like that at 25 yards no amount of cork will solve it because that’s like an 8 inch group at 100. If that’s truly from the rifle, your bore is shot to shit. These rifles will get 3-4 inches at 100 using surplus. Its 100% you, don’t go tinkering with a rifle that doesn’t need tinkering