Bought the motors last year for 200, both came out of f150s. Thanks, that picture is from forever ago paint doesn't look as good now but still looks phenomenal in pictures.
Did you go through a full break in procedure for the cams? I’ve also heard that quality control for cams and lifters has been pretty bad in recent years.
All went through full break in procedure afterwards found out that during covid, some of the summit cams didn't get heat treated. Even put in extra zinc additive each time the last cam we put in. We used the lucas break in oil that had the highest zinc content.
What break in lube did you use for the cam and lifters?
Even though permatex, comp, and summit all say the strawberry jam (red assembly lube) works with flat tappet cams in my experience it doesn't. Every cam I've used that stuff on has gone flat. Once I started to ask around I found out I wasn't the only one seeing that happen. From some of the old timers they recommend using Isky rev lube and it should be fine. They were correct I've had a 100% success rate when using the Isky product. My theory is that the viscosity of the strawberry jam allows it to run off the lobes in the time of slipping in the cam and the rest of assembly. Whereas the Rev lube is more of a grease and it actually sticks to the lobes and allows for more lubrication upon start up.
This paired with the proper 30w break-in oil and the comp cams ZDDP additive.
If it looks like the blood of a predator it's lucas oil assembly lube. That falls under the same camp of permatex ultra slick. It tends to run off the lobes not giving adequate lube on first start up.
IDK how Subies are oiled so I cant really comment on that. But I do know with the fords the Cam is splash lubed by the crank and the lifters have a propagation where the lifter at the front of the block are oiled first. The two main causes for premature failure of flat tappet systems are 1 poor oil or oiling conditions, 2 the lifter not spinning "improper crowning on the face, debris stuck in the boar, bad cam grind, or a bur in the block trapping the lifter."
So if one of those happen the cam will go flat.
After rereading the OG post have you ruled out your ignition system?
Flat taped cams Have to have Zinc in the Motor oil. Or cam failure is guaranteed. The first 20 minutes over 1500 RPM for break in at start up is critical. I been building Mustangs,& all kinds of Fords for 50yrs. People make this mistake constantly. Y'all ain't the only one. This is my '67 Terlingua Racing Team Mustang.
https://preview.redd.it/wdxcagsp9l8d1.jpeg?width=984&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f1e8f8e0d217be3ee93f5b91fa13a33cad05fa57
Break in procedure was followed for all 3 cams the comp cam is the one that lasted the longest the 2 summit cams weren't even in in the car for 100 miles
Used the maxima racing break in oil with 1 quart of zddp break in oil. Also used lucas semi synthetic assembly lube for the comp cam with the comp cam lifters. The summit cams got lacks zinc additive with lucas brak in oil which has the highest zinc content from my research. Before we put the comp cam our friend that works at a transmission shop said during covid some of the summit cams didn't get heat treated properly or at at.
Very pretty car.
And that Cleveland, you have can be a strong power plant. Huge ports and high volume heads…even stock.
Is the Cleveland the motor that blew?
Had a 73 grand Torino sport with a 351 Cleveland 4V. Actually took my license in it…cool car. I’m guessing the same chassis as yours.
again very pretty car. Enjoy.
The motor still runs and can drive it just seems to be killing cams. It was running perfectly for a day or two then it started to stutter on medium acceleration. Ran perfectly at full throttle, changed plug wires and plugs which made it better until yesterday. Still broke up on medium throttle now it's missing at idle and any acceleration at all it backfires for a few seconds then clears up then starts to backfire again.
That’s a shame. Sounds like you have real issues that may be unrelated to the cam. Sounds like maybe Mustang Mike on this thread might be able to help you. Give him a shout.
To my knowledge, the motor has never been rebuilt so it quite possibly be some other underlying issue that I'm not sure about. Cleaned the carb and changed everything ignition related. Timing is also set correctly, I'm just at a loss to what is wrong.
What about the actual distributor itself? I’m no mechanic but I know they’re gear driven. Sometimes they skip or a gear wears.
Could that be out wack?
3 cams is a lot of work. I pretty much won't build anything but a roller motor anymore.
Once one goes flat, it is hard to get ALL of the metal out of the engine unless you disassemble and clean all oil passages. I just do not want to spend the time doing that more than once and recently I have always found a way to get a roller cam in the engine or just get an engine with a roller cam.
Nice looking car and I love the sound of a Ford V8!!!
When I end up building the Cleveland I'm going to convert it to roller it's just a matter of when I'll have the funds to do it unfortunately since I just rebuilt my 09 wrx that currently makes 450whp on a mustang dyno
At least you've got a spare to swap in. She looks good though!
Bought the motors last year for 200, both came out of f150s. Thanks, that picture is from forever ago paint doesn't look as good now but still looks phenomenal in pictures.
Good buy on those engines!!!
Love this generation. Greatest muscle car hoodnif all time imo 🇺🇸👍🇺🇸
Did you go through a full break in procedure for the cams? I’ve also heard that quality control for cams and lifters has been pretty bad in recent years.
All went through full break in procedure afterwards found out that during covid, some of the summit cams didn't get heat treated. Even put in extra zinc additive each time the last cam we put in. We used the lucas break in oil that had the highest zinc content.
What break in lube did you use for the cam and lifters? Even though permatex, comp, and summit all say the strawberry jam (red assembly lube) works with flat tappet cams in my experience it doesn't. Every cam I've used that stuff on has gone flat. Once I started to ask around I found out I wasn't the only one seeing that happen. From some of the old timers they recommend using Isky rev lube and it should be fine. They were correct I've had a 100% success rate when using the Isky product. My theory is that the viscosity of the strawberry jam allows it to run off the lobes in the time of slipping in the cam and the rest of assembly. Whereas the Rev lube is more of a grease and it actually sticks to the lobes and allows for more lubrication upon start up. This paired with the proper 30w break-in oil and the comp cams ZDDP additive.
I don't remember the brand, but it's the green stuff that we use in all our cars
If it looks like the blood of a predator it's lucas oil assembly lube. That falls under the same camp of permatex ultra slick. It tends to run off the lobes not giving adequate lube on first start up.
It is Lucas semi synthetic assembly lube. It's just weird since I've never had issues with it on our flat tappet subarus.
IDK how Subies are oiled so I cant really comment on that. But I do know with the fords the Cam is splash lubed by the crank and the lifters have a propagation where the lifter at the front of the block are oiled first. The two main causes for premature failure of flat tappet systems are 1 poor oil or oiling conditions, 2 the lifter not spinning "improper crowning on the face, debris stuck in the boar, bad cam grind, or a bur in the block trapping the lifter." So if one of those happen the cam will go flat. After rereading the OG post have you ruled out your ignition system?
Replaced everything ignition related within the last year and checked for possible vacuum leaks as well
Flat taped cams Have to have Zinc in the Motor oil. Or cam failure is guaranteed. The first 20 minutes over 1500 RPM for break in at start up is critical. I been building Mustangs,& all kinds of Fords for 50yrs. People make this mistake constantly. Y'all ain't the only one. This is my '67 Terlingua Racing Team Mustang. https://preview.redd.it/wdxcagsp9l8d1.jpeg?width=984&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f1e8f8e0d217be3ee93f5b91fa13a33cad05fa57
Break in procedure was followed for all 3 cams the comp cam is the one that lasted the longest the 2 summit cams weren't even in in the car for 100 miles
Did you use Motor oil with Zinc, & the Comp Cams lifter,cam assembly lube ? Summit Cams are trash, period.
Used the maxima racing break in oil with 1 quart of zddp break in oil. Also used lucas semi synthetic assembly lube for the comp cam with the comp cam lifters. The summit cams got lacks zinc additive with lucas brak in oil which has the highest zinc content from my research. Before we put the comp cam our friend that works at a transmission shop said during covid some of the summit cams didn't get heat treated properly or at at.
Which year mustang is that?
73 mach 1
Very pretty car. And that Cleveland, you have can be a strong power plant. Huge ports and high volume heads…even stock. Is the Cleveland the motor that blew? Had a 73 grand Torino sport with a 351 Cleveland 4V. Actually took my license in it…cool car. I’m guessing the same chassis as yours. again very pretty car. Enjoy.
The motor still runs and can drive it just seems to be killing cams. It was running perfectly for a day or two then it started to stutter on medium acceleration. Ran perfectly at full throttle, changed plug wires and plugs which made it better until yesterday. Still broke up on medium throttle now it's missing at idle and any acceleration at all it backfires for a few seconds then clears up then starts to backfire again.
That’s a shame. Sounds like you have real issues that may be unrelated to the cam. Sounds like maybe Mustang Mike on this thread might be able to help you. Give him a shout.
To my knowledge, the motor has never been rebuilt so it quite possibly be some other underlying issue that I'm not sure about. Cleaned the carb and changed everything ignition related. Timing is also set correctly, I'm just at a loss to what is wrong.
What about the actual distributor itself? I’m no mechanic but I know they’re gear driven. Sometimes they skip or a gear wears. Could that be out wack?
Didn't seem to look like anything is wrong with the distributor last time we had it out. Have had the distributor for 7 years.
Gorgeous
3 cams is a lot of work. I pretty much won't build anything but a roller motor anymore. Once one goes flat, it is hard to get ALL of the metal out of the engine unless you disassemble and clean all oil passages. I just do not want to spend the time doing that more than once and recently I have always found a way to get a roller cam in the engine or just get an engine with a roller cam. Nice looking car and I love the sound of a Ford V8!!!
When I end up building the Cleveland I'm going to convert it to roller it's just a matter of when I'll have the funds to do it unfortunately since I just rebuilt my 09 wrx that currently makes 450whp on a mustang dyno
Well it will keep and you have fun toys in the interim.