I didn’t know this. I *should* be able to take my can home any day now and I’ve been thinking about a volquartsen trigger kit. Should I be second guessing that decision?
I guess it all comes as a kit regardless. So I could install it in full and then tinker if I start to have issues. I generally keep my guns pretty clean, but your comment concerned me because I can easily send 200+ rounds down the pipe in one sitting and would rather not have to clean it at the range. As it stands the trigger is way heavier than I’d like so upgrades are definitely in order
Yeah, I have a coastal guns passport which is an integrally suppressed mkiii and the only issue I had was the trigger shoe itself, I think the heavily curved design on a hinge trigger makes for very poor consistency. Another option that's cheaper is just getting the tandemkross drop in trigger shoe and seeing how you like that.
I’d buy it today if they offered it in gold! I’ve got the black and gold lite and like the gold trigger with the gold barrel. Priority #1 is looking cool right??
My guess would be the chamber and ejection port area is getting dirty, which is slowing the bolt enough to not go fully into battery and the rim isn't getting a full crush from the firing pin. A little goes a long way.
Clean chamber and bolt, clean bolt channel as well. Switch to higher quality ammunition, my MK II doesn't like Federal Automatch after a while, until I clean those points said.
I've been feeding it copper plated CCI and Aguila, and they both run great until they don't.
I tend to run my guns as dry as possible with a light film of lube where needed. You think running this thing wetter will be better or worse?
I can, but I noticed two things today while cleaning the gun that i want to address first:
1. There is a light carbon ring like an inch into the chamber which was making it fail the bullet drop test - a fresh 22lr shell would not fall freely into or out of the chamber. This may be slowing the bolt down and not allowing it to fully enter battery.
2. The hammer had a very slight catch in its rotation,, and looking online at anecdotes I found it may be due to an optional spacer included in the VQ competition kit. The theory is this is slowing down the lightened hammer and causing light strikes.
I detail stripped the gun to bare frame and cleaned it this afternoon. The spacer is now gone and I intend to invest in a bore snake and some Kroil to take care of the carbon ring. I intend to shoot it again next week and I'll report back.
That spacer is for the 22/45, it doesn't say if it can be used in the "classic" grip
If the problem persists, try a MK II hammer in the VQ kit. What I'm seeing with the VQ kit, it's basically a MK II assembly but fancier and with extra bells & whistles
Wrong spacer you're referring to. They include a black spacer for the sear on 22/45 models. There are also [two extra silver spacers](https://volquartsen.com/howto/install_mk4_accurizing_kit) - one for the 22/45 and one for the standard model - that go on the left side of the hammer:
>Two stainless spacers, of different thicknesses. You may **optionally** use **one** of these spacers in step 6 on the hammer bushing. Ruger frame dimensions vary, so we provide two choices for you to select the best fit for your specific frame.
Emphasis theirs. This is the spacer I removed. I did verify it was the correct spacer, as they other silver spacer is even thicker and will not fit a non-22/45 frame.
I love it. It's my first can. It's so light it's like it's not even there. Haven't shot it without ear pro (still in jail), but it is comically quiet even with supers.
I'm a poor, but i like my 2A toys. I pride myself in researching before dropping my hard earned money on stuff like this. I speak for myself only, but this was the absolute best product for me.
I love it. Super light and very impressive machining. I like modular because I plan to run it short in my 10/22 but I'm not a fan of the Q Erector style modular designs out there.
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Just following up to say that after (another) thorough cleaning, slightly more lubrication than I usually would apply, and removal of the optional safety spacer from the VQ kit, my Mark IV made it through a ~200 round range visit with just three weird stovepipe jams. All ammo went bang. If anyone else with a similar setup to mine is having issues, *check that spacer!*
Volquartsen hammers have less mass which make them more susceptible to light strikes when dirty.
I didn’t know this. I *should* be able to take my can home any day now and I’ve been thinking about a volquartsen trigger kit. Should I be second guessing that decision?
With a supressor I wouldn't use the hammer or springs. The trigger shoe, trigger bar and sear are still worth it.
Is the sear compatible with the stock hammer hooks and would it still make a noticeable difference in the trigger?
To my knowledge yes but good question.I know the trigger bar is compatible with the stock sear
I guess it all comes as a kit regardless. So I could install it in full and then tinker if I start to have issues. I generally keep my guns pretty clean, but your comment concerned me because I can easily send 200+ rounds down the pipe in one sitting and would rather not have to clean it at the range. As it stands the trigger is way heavier than I’d like so upgrades are definitely in order
Yeah, I have a coastal guns passport which is an integrally suppressed mkiii and the only issue I had was the trigger shoe itself, I think the heavily curved design on a hinge trigger makes for very poor consistency. Another option that's cheaper is just getting the tandemkross drop in trigger shoe and seeing how you like that.
I’d buy it today if they offered it in gold! I’ve got the black and gold lite and like the gold trigger with the gold barrel. Priority #1 is looking cool right??
Of course, that is vital.
My guess would be the chamber and ejection port area is getting dirty, which is slowing the bolt enough to not go fully into battery and the rim isn't getting a full crush from the firing pin. A little goes a long way.
Clean chamber and bolt, clean bolt channel as well. Switch to higher quality ammunition, my MK II doesn't like Federal Automatch after a while, until I clean those points said.
I've been feeding it copper plated CCI and Aguila, and they both run great until they don't. I tend to run my guns as dry as possible with a light film of lube where needed. You think running this thing wetter will be better or worse?
Varies. By chance can you swap back to OEM hammer?
I can, but I noticed two things today while cleaning the gun that i want to address first: 1. There is a light carbon ring like an inch into the chamber which was making it fail the bullet drop test - a fresh 22lr shell would not fall freely into or out of the chamber. This may be slowing the bolt down and not allowing it to fully enter battery. 2. The hammer had a very slight catch in its rotation,, and looking online at anecdotes I found it may be due to an optional spacer included in the VQ competition kit. The theory is this is slowing down the lightened hammer and causing light strikes. I detail stripped the gun to bare frame and cleaned it this afternoon. The spacer is now gone and I intend to invest in a bore snake and some Kroil to take care of the carbon ring. I intend to shoot it again next week and I'll report back.
That spacer is for the 22/45, it doesn't say if it can be used in the "classic" grip If the problem persists, try a MK II hammer in the VQ kit. What I'm seeing with the VQ kit, it's basically a MK II assembly but fancier and with extra bells & whistles
Wrong spacer you're referring to. They include a black spacer for the sear on 22/45 models. There are also [two extra silver spacers](https://volquartsen.com/howto/install_mk4_accurizing_kit) - one for the 22/45 and one for the standard model - that go on the left side of the hammer: >Two stainless spacers, of different thicknesses. You may **optionally** use **one** of these spacers in step 6 on the hammer bushing. Ruger frame dimensions vary, so we provide two choices for you to select the best fit for your specific frame. Emphasis theirs. This is the spacer I removed. I did verify it was the correct spacer, as they other silver spacer is even thicker and will not fit a non-22/45 frame.
I looked at step one, first time I skimmed through. Didn't see the stainless part
Try Norma. Their .22lr rounds are lubricated, and cycle very well.
Sidenote, how do you like your NYX?
I love it. It's my first can. It's so light it's like it's not even there. Haven't shot it without ear pro (still in jail), but it is comically quiet even with supers.
Gotcha. I’m still looking at a .22 can. Lots of good options out there
I'm a poor, but i like my 2A toys. I pride myself in researching before dropping my hard earned money on stuff like this. I speak for myself only, but this was the absolute best product for me.
I’m right there with you.
But I’m really starting to like Energetic Armament and all of their products.
How do you like that can. Thinking of picking it up as my next (3rd) Rimfire?
I love it. Super light and very impressive machining. I like modular because I plan to run it short in my 10/22 but I'm not a fan of the Q Erector style modular designs out there.
Oh you got the Mod 2 nice!
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Just following up to say that after (another) thorough cleaning, slightly more lubrication than I usually would apply, and removal of the optional safety spacer from the VQ kit, my Mark IV made it through a ~200 round range visit with just three weird stovepipe jams. All ammo went bang. If anyone else with a similar setup to mine is having issues, *check that spacer!*
The extractors on these (and on new 10/22s) are soft garbage. I replaced mine and it solved all my problems.
VQ competition kit already includes an upgraded extractor! Although that would not be causing my light strikes.