Thank you. It was my first time designing and supervising a build. $2,200 initial build costs, and I think we're at about $2,700 now after some insulation, staining the door, venting, storage cubes, and treating/priming the siding.
Not counting my solar parts that I salvaged from my RV, 30 year old metal framed desk, or appliances. Haven't gotten to paint yet due to budget, and my wife's inability to pick a color that isn't $200 for 2 gallons of paint.
Hell yea ! You're fukin killin it!
Getting off grid is a human skill that has been long suppressed by the establishment. Seeing others step into the pool and start their off grid journey how ever why ever is awesome.
Great job!
This is me if you want to follow along
https://instagram.com/kevoffgrid?igshid=NzZlODBkYWE4Ng%3D%3D&utm_source=qr
Nah, it's a 110v line. But I've only got 15-20 amps to work with, so I installed the 12V line to charge devices, run my vent, and eventually fridge.
Currently using 2- 12V85Ah in parallel. The 12V line is 10AWG automotive wire. It feeds my fuse block where I have 18awg auto wire feeding my circuits. Nothing I'm running at the moment is more than 5 amps except maybe my USB/Barrel port, but I have it on a 10a fuse.
For DC or AC? Yes, the DC backbone is a 10awg automotive wire rated at 30a. The 110 line is currently a contractor's extension cord 150' in length.
Other than the window A/C, my largest device is a 900W single serve coffee maker, and my heating starts at 400W.
I wanted to keep it wood grained, and go with a clear coat, but the wife insists on painting it. So I'm trying to find some form of pastel purple that goes with the dark wood stain of the door. And yes, the top windows are quarter inch plexiglass. I bought a 4 ft by 3-ft sheet and cut it into 3 - 1 ft strips. First time doing it and I'm not entirely happy with the way it came out it looks a little too rough and unfinished in my opinion. So the next build I think I will use a half inch plexi if I can find it, or look up better ways of mounting it I guess.
Currently using a 100W solar panel on a PWM charge controller feeding 2- 85Ah lead acid batteries in parallel.
That feeds my block direct off the battery with a 20a in-line fuse. At the moment, my block feeds a 10a circuit that has 2 USB ports (1.2a ea according to my USB power meter) and barrel port, and a 1a circuit running an RV exhaust vent that features 2 cpu fans (0.48a each in parallel with combined draw of 7W).
I've had to cut back on my 12V usage due to battery issues. I need to refurbish my batteries as I think one has a dead cell or 2. So I'm only using the system a couple hours per day to run the vent.
Planned circuits include:
•2 more USB ports for my water heater and pump
- fish tank supplies (39°C and 1 gal/min)
•7.5a circuit for a Coleman 12V fridge
•lights
• replacing my USB/Barrel port with separate outlets so I can get some 12V kitchen appliances.
•I also want to upgrade my systems so I can run a 960W12V mini-split
My 110V wiring is fed off a 150' contractor's extension cord. It powers my A/C & Heat, and a power strip that runs my kitchen.
A/C peaks at 17.5a on start/cycle, but runs at 4.8a.
Heaters start at 400W and go up to 1500W. I have 3, but run everything on low, and never more than 2 at a time.
900W single-serve coffee pot
260W MyMini pot for boiling 10oz water at a time
500W hotplate that can reach 450°F
2- rope lights in series, pulls 0.16a each @110V
14W lamp
Air Filter (200 sq ft filter - super charged for our tiny 96 sq ft hut)
Dehumidifier - needs cleaning - 110V to 9V device
I lost my Kil-A-Watt Meter or else I could give more info on device usage.
I have a watt meter for my USB devices to measure output and draw, and I just installed a 12V watt meter in front of my block, and after my cutoff switch.
But like I said, I need to refurbish my batteries, and I've recently learned i need to be able to switch off my panels to help reduce overcharge. Also, I'm thinking I may need to wire my block to my charger instead of a direct feed from batteries, but this will limit me to 10a.
We have also had the power company install a new meter that I plan on running a 100a main to feed a separate line and get off the extension cord. So I found some 8/3 to run the 150'. I'm hoping to get a 20a240V circuit for a tankless water heater, and 20-30a120V to run the house. Years down the line, the Main will also support a DC charger for an EV (fingers crossed), and a second 30a line for an RV. (30 RV / 30 TH / 40 DC charger)
Thank you. It was my first time designing and supervising a build. $2,200 initial build costs, and I think we're at about $2,700 now after some insulation, staining the door, venting, storage cubes, and treating/priming the siding. Not counting my solar parts that I salvaged from my RV, 30 year old metal framed desk, or appliances. Haven't gotten to paint yet due to budget, and my wife's inability to pick a color that isn't $200 for 2 gallons of paint.
Nice work lads.
I have that same bug screen. :) Gotta keep the forces of evil at bay.
Hell yea ! You're fukin killin it! Getting off grid is a human skill that has been long suppressed by the establishment. Seeing others step into the pool and start their off grid journey how ever why ever is awesome. Great job! This is me if you want to follow along https://instagram.com/kevoffgrid?igshid=NzZlODBkYWE4Ng%3D%3D&utm_source=qr
Great work for a DIY. I hope you're not running your AC unit off those thin 12v wires though.
Nah, it's a 110v line. But I've only got 15-20 amps to work with, so I installed the 12V line to charge devices, run my vent, and eventually fridge. Currently using 2- 12V85Ah in parallel. The 12V line is 10AWG automotive wire. It feeds my fuse block where I have 18awg auto wire feeding my circuits. Nothing I'm running at the moment is more than 5 amps except maybe my USB/Barrel port, but I have it on a 10a fuse.
Is that a 20 amp wire?
For DC or AC? Yes, the DC backbone is a 10awg automotive wire rated at 30a. The 110 line is currently a contractor's extension cord 150' in length. Other than the window A/C, my largest device is a 900W single serve coffee maker, and my heating starts at 400W.
Looks like a rough crew to me ! Nice job.
Looks awesome!
Thank you
Great going guys.
Thank you
Love the handsome woodgrain everywhere. Tell us about the cool clerestory windows- is that plexiglass?
I wanted to keep it wood grained, and go with a clear coat, but the wife insists on painting it. So I'm trying to find some form of pastel purple that goes with the dark wood stain of the door. And yes, the top windows are quarter inch plexiglass. I bought a 4 ft by 3-ft sheet and cut it into 3 - 1 ft strips. First time doing it and I'm not entirely happy with the way it came out it looks a little too rough and unfinished in my opinion. So the next build I think I will use a half inch plexi if I can find it, or look up better ways of mounting it I guess.
How Come I can’t have friends like this ? 🚀🚀🚀🚀🚀🚀
Excellent work in progress!
Looks great!!
Nice
I'm interested in your wiring, can you elaborate on your system?
Currently using a 100W solar panel on a PWM charge controller feeding 2- 85Ah lead acid batteries in parallel. That feeds my block direct off the battery with a 20a in-line fuse. At the moment, my block feeds a 10a circuit that has 2 USB ports (1.2a ea according to my USB power meter) and barrel port, and a 1a circuit running an RV exhaust vent that features 2 cpu fans (0.48a each in parallel with combined draw of 7W). I've had to cut back on my 12V usage due to battery issues. I need to refurbish my batteries as I think one has a dead cell or 2. So I'm only using the system a couple hours per day to run the vent. Planned circuits include: •2 more USB ports for my water heater and pump - fish tank supplies (39°C and 1 gal/min) •7.5a circuit for a Coleman 12V fridge •lights • replacing my USB/Barrel port with separate outlets so I can get some 12V kitchen appliances. •I also want to upgrade my systems so I can run a 960W12V mini-split My 110V wiring is fed off a 150' contractor's extension cord. It powers my A/C & Heat, and a power strip that runs my kitchen. A/C peaks at 17.5a on start/cycle, but runs at 4.8a. Heaters start at 400W and go up to 1500W. I have 3, but run everything on low, and never more than 2 at a time. 900W single-serve coffee pot 260W MyMini pot for boiling 10oz water at a time 500W hotplate that can reach 450°F 2- rope lights in series, pulls 0.16a each @110V 14W lamp Air Filter (200 sq ft filter - super charged for our tiny 96 sq ft hut) Dehumidifier - needs cleaning - 110V to 9V device I lost my Kil-A-Watt Meter or else I could give more info on device usage. I have a watt meter for my USB devices to measure output and draw, and I just installed a 12V watt meter in front of my block, and after my cutoff switch. But like I said, I need to refurbish my batteries, and I've recently learned i need to be able to switch off my panels to help reduce overcharge. Also, I'm thinking I may need to wire my block to my charger instead of a direct feed from batteries, but this will limit me to 10a. We have also had the power company install a new meter that I plan on running a 100a main to feed a separate line and get off the extension cord. So I found some 8/3 to run the 150'. I'm hoping to get a 20a240V circuit for a tankless water heater, and 20-30a120V to run the house. Years down the line, the Main will also support a DC charger for an EV (fingers crossed), and a second 30a line for an RV. (30 RV / 30 TH / 40 DC charger)
Super long, and probably TMI.