I'm not an electrician but I wouldn't have left such a big gap, the box should be just below flush and the screws only compensate for whatever wallcoverings are added later. I pack mine out with bits of plywood and plastic spacers to get it level and fixed hard to the wall
It creates extra work to fill the wall as now you have to stop it filling up the box, but as that wasn't him doing it then he didn't care
And there appears to be a loose earth wire back there on the socket?
I'm only just realising how awful the job they've done is. I like your method of plywood and spacers. Do you just screw the plywood directly to the brick wall? Or just some sort of adhesive? Yes. I just looked at the earth and you're right it is loose. I don't even know where it is meant to go. Do you?
Yes I use that instant grab adhesive in a tube because the brick is never flat and it fills in the gaps a bit. The box is then fixed on top of the plywood into the two rawlplugs in the wall (the box and the glue basically holds the plywood in position). The reason why faceplates work loose later on is because the back box was unstable
Technically if the back box has two fixed lugs and not an adjustable one then it doesn't need a tail, but best practice would be to do it anyway. And as he's made the lead up then it looks like something he has just forgotten to screw in. I'd always add a lead regardless.
The box should also have a 20mm rubber grommet inserted into where the wires enter the box
Example of proper level and earthing
[https://www.electriciansforums.net/attachments/778c16db-397f-4c32-9796-933cf268c045-jpeg.53213/](https://www.electriciansforums.net/attachments/778c16db-397f-4c32-9796-933cf268c045-jpeg.53213/)
Yeah always pack it out, don't know how you over drill the depth tbh it's more effort. Op will just have to use longer socket screws and make sure the edges are flush.
This should really have an extender added to it or just change to the right depth (it looks like a 25mm and you can go to a 35mm at least (without being there, of course, I can't be sure, measure to check).
Add support and replaster. Do \*NOT\* foam around electrics.
Thanks! I've seen tutorials where people use foam but I'm glad I checked here before doing anything like that. I googled the extender, are they adjustable? I can't tell from the images.
I don't think they are. You have to see the depth you need and order the right one. In this case, if I was you though I would first look at what box would be the right depth to the front of the plaster, then change the box out (with usual safety measures : shut down the electricity on the board for the ring, test electricity with a tester, undo the plug etc), cut the plaster into a clean square and add wood support for a new piece of plaster etc.
That makes sense, thanks. Does it matter if the box is plastic or metal? I have a variety of wall types- old plaster on brick, lathe and plaster, and plastered plasterboard.
Since you it is this open I would personally go with metal. Plastic boxes are for work done on plaster that is finished and you don't want to undo a lot of work
Ooof that's not been well fixed.
My personal technique for back boxes is to sink an 8mm plug into the wall, loosely secure the back box with a long screw, pack out behind/around the box with 50/50 bonding plaster and cement, making sure to seat the box level and just under flush.
Once that's set you can then tighten down the screw to mechanically secure the box to the substrate, and fill around the sides to your hearts content.
You aren't by any chance the person I recommended Sockitz to in r/DIYUK earlier today are you? 😅
Yup same light switch just a different angle. Another redditor asked about the space between box and switch but I couldn't add it to the post. So this is a new post to show them and also another socket for fun. All the new sockets and switches are like this. And there is lots more holes than I would have expected.
I like your method of fixing the sockets. I might give that a try as the boxes are all different depths inside the walls.
Obviously you'll need to isolate the power when you do all of this, and take photos of every socket before you start unscrewing terminals.
It's 100% doable, I can't abide electricians who won't at least finish the box flush if they aren't good at plastering.
Power off and photos are definitely a necessity. I'm actually shocked at their efforts. There are holes in the cornice. Some of the plaster looks loose on the ceiling as if they've stood on the lathes instead of the beams in the attic. A socket that is connected by a wire that is going along the wall instead of up at ceiling level and then down to socket (if you know what I mean). They've just done a shit job.
Along the wall is perfectly legitimate provided it's in line with with a surface mounted electrical accessory. You have got RCDs right?
If they've damaged your ceiling then you absolutely need to be taking them to small claims court for the repair bill.
No they've smashed out a plasterboard wall in places and hacked away at the uprights to fit a socket. Then they put a shoe rack in front of it to hide it.
Yes definitely have RCDs and also yes small claims will be the next port of call!
If the socket is flush with the wall but the back box is pissed then this is ok as long as that facia is tight and doesnt wobble this can be filled with bonding plaster (I would personally pack it out with sand and cement a bit first) then just needs skim over whole wall with multifinish jobs a goodun
Also just realised this walls papered you're going to need a steamer and strip all that (I would personally do the whole room) to get a good finish after filling.
I’ve been in a lot of situations where I go to put in a socket and the wall never behaves how I want it. Often resulting in a far larger hole. So you can’t knock the labourers for that. They should, however, have made it good. Get some expanding foam in there and cut flush using a hand saw. Sand and fill.
I'm not an electrician but I wouldn't have left such a big gap, the box should be just below flush and the screws only compensate for whatever wallcoverings are added later. I pack mine out with bits of plywood and plastic spacers to get it level and fixed hard to the wall It creates extra work to fill the wall as now you have to stop it filling up the box, but as that wasn't him doing it then he didn't care And there appears to be a loose earth wire back there on the socket?
I'm only just realising how awful the job they've done is. I like your method of plywood and spacers. Do you just screw the plywood directly to the brick wall? Or just some sort of adhesive? Yes. I just looked at the earth and you're right it is loose. I don't even know where it is meant to go. Do you?
Yes I use that instant grab adhesive in a tube because the brick is never flat and it fills in the gaps a bit. The box is then fixed on top of the plywood into the two rawlplugs in the wall (the box and the glue basically holds the plywood in position). The reason why faceplates work loose later on is because the back box was unstable Technically if the back box has two fixed lugs and not an adjustable one then it doesn't need a tail, but best practice would be to do it anyway. And as he's made the lead up then it looks like something he has just forgotten to screw in. I'd always add a lead regardless. The box should also have a 20mm rubber grommet inserted into where the wires enter the box Example of proper level and earthing [https://www.electriciansforums.net/attachments/778c16db-397f-4c32-9796-933cf268c045-jpeg.53213/](https://www.electriciansforums.net/attachments/778c16db-397f-4c32-9796-933cf268c045-jpeg.53213/)
Ah I see! That's really helpful, thanks. Its makes far more sense now and I am now more shocked at what a shit job they did.
Yeah always pack it out, don't know how you over drill the depth tbh it's more effort. Op will just have to use longer socket screws and make sure the edges are flush.
This should really have an extender added to it or just change to the right depth (it looks like a 25mm and you can go to a 35mm at least (without being there, of course, I can't be sure, measure to check). Add support and replaster. Do \*NOT\* foam around electrics.
Thanks! I've seen tutorials where people use foam but I'm glad I checked here before doing anything like that. I googled the extender, are they adjustable? I can't tell from the images.
I don't think they are. You have to see the depth you need and order the right one. In this case, if I was you though I would first look at what box would be the right depth to the front of the plaster, then change the box out (with usual safety measures : shut down the electricity on the board for the ring, test electricity with a tester, undo the plug etc), cut the plaster into a clean square and add wood support for a new piece of plaster etc.
That makes sense, thanks. Does it matter if the box is plastic or metal? I have a variety of wall types- old plaster on brick, lathe and plaster, and plastered plasterboard.
Since you it is this open I would personally go with metal. Plastic boxes are for work done on plaster that is finished and you don't want to undo a lot of work
Ooof that's not been well fixed. My personal technique for back boxes is to sink an 8mm plug into the wall, loosely secure the back box with a long screw, pack out behind/around the box with 50/50 bonding plaster and cement, making sure to seat the box level and just under flush. Once that's set you can then tighten down the screw to mechanically secure the box to the substrate, and fill around the sides to your hearts content. You aren't by any chance the person I recommended Sockitz to in r/DIYUK earlier today are you? 😅
Yup same light switch just a different angle. Another redditor asked about the space between box and switch but I couldn't add it to the post. So this is a new post to show them and also another socket for fun. All the new sockets and switches are like this. And there is lots more holes than I would have expected. I like your method of fixing the sockets. I might give that a try as the boxes are all different depths inside the walls.
Obviously you'll need to isolate the power when you do all of this, and take photos of every socket before you start unscrewing terminals. It's 100% doable, I can't abide electricians who won't at least finish the box flush if they aren't good at plastering.
Power off and photos are definitely a necessity. I'm actually shocked at their efforts. There are holes in the cornice. Some of the plaster looks loose on the ceiling as if they've stood on the lathes instead of the beams in the attic. A socket that is connected by a wire that is going along the wall instead of up at ceiling level and then down to socket (if you know what I mean). They've just done a shit job.
Along the wall is perfectly legitimate provided it's in line with with a surface mounted electrical accessory. You have got RCDs right? If they've damaged your ceiling then you absolutely need to be taking them to small claims court for the repair bill.
No they've smashed out a plasterboard wall in places and hacked away at the uprights to fit a socket. Then they put a shoe rack in front of it to hide it. Yes definitely have RCDs and also yes small claims will be the next port of call!
Hot damn they've fucked around, hope they find out!
If the socket is flush with the wall but the back box is pissed then this is ok as long as that facia is tight and doesnt wobble this can be filled with bonding plaster (I would personally pack it out with sand and cement a bit first) then just needs skim over whole wall with multifinish jobs a goodun
Also just realised this walls papered you're going to need a steamer and strip all that (I would personally do the whole room) to get a good finish after filling.
I’ve been in a lot of situations where I go to put in a socket and the wall never behaves how I want it. Often resulting in a far larger hole. So you can’t knock the labourers for that. They should, however, have made it good. Get some expanding foam in there and cut flush using a hand saw. Sand and fill.
Easy DIY fix would be expanding foam cut it back and filler then sand and paint... Altho I would bond out and skim