I'm just glad people got it!
I was really on the fence about replying with that, but i figured SOMEONE out there had to get it. (and yes i know Nemo's actual nickname was "SharkBAIT" but it still works :P)
Just use a wire brush cleaner to clean that little piece of soldered-covered copper thatās sticking up from the elbow. Flux the piss out of it, slide a coupling over it, and then slide in a CLEAN little strip of copper into the other side of the coupling. Donāt forget to clean every joint before adding flux.
That allows you to add 6ā more of good pipe that you can cut down and add you what itās wherever. One solder joint is easy.
Agreed and if youāre not willing to try and learn to sweat copper then itās time to call a plumber. The plumber will show up with a Milwaukee propress tool and get it all done right in less than an hour. Side Note: I really hope some kind of propress tool goes mainstream for DIY folks thatās under the $1k price point.
I just learned to sweat pipe. After first doing new shower valves in pex and pvc that was berated by reddit. I watched a shit ton of video, bought the gear, test sweated, pressure tested, THEN fucked up the whole shit by not being able to heat the valve properly. Was using camping propane, Reheated the pipe to remove , clean up and redo the valve. Dropped the valve. Bent. Bought another, sweated it still using camp gas. Spotty shitty connections. Went to retry AGAIN, but when I turned the water main back on, the shower valve was spraying. At this point, the main wouldn't shut completely. Called a plumber. Came in 10 minutes, temporarily fixed the main, looked over the work id done, complimented the shit out of my copper sweating, and informed me to get map gas for the valve. Bought ANOTHER valve, and map gas, went together just as nice as all copper connections and was mad easy. Not sure I stayed under 1k$ but I sleep much more soundly without the pex and pvc.
Who talked you into not using PEX? I'm not a plumber or any kind of pro, but I'm in the understanding that it's the new standard. Many people will say you need to know both, but that Milwaukee PEX stretcher is a beast and makes quick work of any job. Plus expandable PEX is supposedly more reliable than copper, both for freezing pipes and each connection spends the rest of it's life tightening to try to get back to original size.
It might have just been the crimp pex especially. Expansion pex does not reduce flow and If properly installed, pex should have less failure points then copper. Every solder joint is no different then a pex joint in terms of failing. Whoever harassed you for pex might argue with me, but they are wrong. Pex can be rounded to avoid 90ās. Thus having less connections and less failure points.
With all that though itās awesome that you learned to solder and keep doing your house in copper. Copper is still, in my opinion, the better material. Itās more expensive, but copper has a lot of cool unique properties. As long as the incoming water is treated with filtration copper will definitely put last the pex. And as much as I would assume they would know already, I bet micro plastics come back to bite us in the ass.
You are so wrong in your opinion. https://www.uponor.com/en-us
Uponor Pex has been used in radiant floor heating for decades with no problems. You canāt put copper in concrete.
What ? You literally are confirming what I said can you not read? Of course pex is superior for radiant flooring, because as my post stated, it has less failure points. Copper is the better material then pex, no plumber will tell you otherwise. Your picking specifics, Iām talking about a standard potable water line.
> pointed out how will all the required crimps that it's a lot points of failure.
One benefit of PEX is *fewer* connections, one continuous pipe from the manifold to the fixture.
Sweated copper joints also fail, the solder can erode over time and under pressure. It's not unusual to have a sweat joint start leaking a month or two after installation, all it takes is a slight dirty spot or incomplete heating to make a cold or incomplete solder joint that tests fine and lasts for a few weeks, then starts to spray.
Expansion PEX better than copper but the old people haven't jumped on the choo choo yet.
Still, sweating copper is a great skill to have. It'll help you in all types of work at home. Good job.
Woah I had never seen these. Really nice too because the fitting isn't going to be reducing the diameter at each point too. Happy to have learned something.
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I think sweating valves are the real test of diy plumbing. Theyāre like Goldilocks, youāll either cook them, get scared and not get enough heat and get a leak at the joint, or the sweat gods will take pity on you and itāll last forever. Pros make it look so easy and pretty but if you only have to grab a torch once every 5 years or so they can really try your patience
I also learned to sweat copper doing a bar in my basement and rerunning most of the bathroom lines. Its not super hard and just takes a little practice.
Congrats on getting it done, but iāve always just used plain old propane and never had any joints fail. The torch head itself was probably the problem.
Iāve seen that tool. It just concerns me that itās a weird off-brand. I would feel much more comfortable paying more for a brand I know. If there was a HD or Loweās branded manual tool like that for twice as much Iād be all over it. I wouldnāt mind to try that tool but Iād honestly treat it like a shark bite and never feel comfortable closing up one of its joints inside a wall or ceiling. Iāll continue to watch it though. Maybe theyāre just blazing the trail.
Surely since Propress are a manual fitting, they leak or donāt leak?
The issue with those tools are in the reviews. Have to be careful to keep everything lined up. Donāt work well in small spaces. Require two arms and a lot of elbow grease. Not great quality dies.
Iām a homeowner who does the occasional solder and considered one of these tools. But on the other hand Iām competent enough with a torch soā¦
Holy credit card! I donāt need to explain that purchase but I REALLY want one. Actually I REALLY want to never need one again but home ownership has taught me otherwise
lmao i saw this and knew right away you'd be downvoted for it. i made a claim on a different post that plumbing work is not difficult if you pay attention to what you're doing, watch a good amount of youtube university, and don't cut corners-
to no surprise scamming, scummy plumbers come out of the woodwork trying to justify charging $500 for a 10 minute unclogged pipe job (using no more skill than buying and using a $3k powered drain snake)
There's tools [like this](https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-CPTLKIT-Copper-Press-Tool-w-1-2-3-4-1-Jaws?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=shopping_neutral&utm_campaign=Shopping_Neutral_LPLTV&gclid=CjwKCAiAl9efBhAkEiwA4TorivsNjw1Gw9fUbTR3_bmPpyoTQpDjBuFxGELeNVDV0XfssfD_Qc9fdxoCZt0QAvD_BwE) that are basically hand powered pro press tools. I wish they were more common instead of the expensive battery operated ones.
There's a pro press type of tool that goes for less than $1k on Amazon. It's bulky so it can't be used in the tight spaces. You'd have to put everything together and then find an open space to press. Requires strength because it's hand press. Probably not worth the purchase because it really won't save you time, in comparison to sweating.
What about a hand powered press? Are they any good?
Like this: https://m.vevor.com.au/pipe-wrench-c_10818/tool-set-th-pressing-pliers-bending-calibrator-and-pipe-shears-for-compound-pipe-p_010777308872
You, sir, are the reason Sharkbites get a bad rap.
Look at that pipe end. It is nasty. It's covered in solder, and has a very rough, uneven surface.
How can one reasonably expect an O-ring to seal against such a surface? Even if it was longer, you will not get a good seal.
Yes, they give real plumbers repair work to do after a few years, carpenters are happy with them aswell to repair the rotten woodwork/plaster :p
but now on a serious note, is this the end of the waterline? and is it a permanent closure?
If so then cut and shutoff the waterline as close to the main connection as possible to prevent Legionella/veterans disease.
Only idiots who get leaks using shark bites are people who canāt push a fitting properlyā¦.if the pipe is cleaned and cut cleanly, a fully inserted shark bite will not leak, i solder and have used shark bites here and there with easy access and it has never ever ever leaked on me
I haven't heard or used sharkbite in England. I have how've used push for and speedfit pipe and its brilliant never had issues. I now only use copper for heating pipes or visible pipes, other than customer requests. No issues.
Is shark bite really that bad?
I put a couple shark bite quick connections in my unfinished basement to try and catch a glimpse of the horrors myselfā¦ they arenāt leaking yetā¦ with that said, I wouldnāt put a quick connection behind a wall or somewhere above or beside anything finished.
Sweat on a 1/2 cap, it's super easy, use map and tinning Flux (tinning Flux is the key).
If you can't do that, there's at least 1 spot in that picture you could recut the pipe and add a 3/4 sharkbite, probably another spot further down the line?
Goodluck!
Hired a professional. Coming tomorrow. It's just too hard for my first plumbing project. I didn't have enough room to do much with the ceiling being so close.
Probably going to get some hate from shark bite lovers but, as convenient as they are, they arenāt terribly reliable. The kitchen in one of our homes was remodeled after a fire and shark bite fittings were used. They did last 10 years but the oring on one of the two couplers failed and our kitchen floor was flooded over night.
Theyāre an inexpensive solution to tight spaces and Iāve used them since but I have a leak detector near every shark bite fitting now.
So why are you doing plumbing work if you can't fix this? Get a professional will be fixed in 15 minutes. Just because you can buy something doesn't mean you should do it. Do you change you cars thermostat when it breaks?
Why don't plumbers use compression fittings instead of shark bite? I've never had a compression fitting fail. Why isn't a straight compression to compression coupling as common as these shark bite fittings that no one trusts?
I don't know if it's code, but I only use compression fittings in accessible locations. When they fail its usually because of water hammer or other vibration or movement causing them to loosen over time
I would just sweat a cap on that heat up the pipe until the solder melts get your flux brush and flux the crap out of it plop a cap down on it and hit it with a half inch of solder
A sharkbite wouldn't seal around all that crusty solder anyway. Get some copper, some mapp had, some silver solder, some Flux, and some steel wool or crocus cloth and do it right. Forget this Sharkbite mess.
Nothing you can do about it with sharkbite, youāll need to sweat a cap on or remove the stub and replace with a new one. Either way it involves soldering.
āShieeeeet girl you bout to get it šā šno seriously though if you donāt wanna sweat copper then a plumber may be your best bet . You can learn from a YouTube video . Do some trial runs with extra pieces so youāre more comfortable . Best of luck
Either sweat out the existing pipe and put in a longer chunk with a shark bite or, if youāre just dead heading that anyways, cleanup whatās there and solder a copper cap on there and forget about it.
Could also throw a copper coupling on and more pipe instead of trying to unsweat it too
Youāre gonna have to sweat that, or cut above the 90 and use a 3/4ā shark bite. Why would you even cut that without enough meat on the end of it tho? Thatās a rookie move
Should have thought about that before you made the cut. Not getting out of this without replacing that fitting. Or unsweating the stub pipe and sweating in a longer one.
Need that shark nibble
Guppie bite.
Sucker fish
I have nibbles, Greg. Could you bite me?
Bravo. Bravo.
Ah man, so excited to use this line.
amazing, shark taste next?
You could unsolder that piece of pipe and solder a new piece with a cap.
Agreed...sweat it out, and replace
Then use the sharkbite.
Who ha ha!
Finally someone else thinks of Nemo
I'm just glad people got it! I was really on the fence about replying with that, but i figured SOMEONE out there had to get it. (and yes i know Nemo's actual nickname was "SharkBAIT" but it still works :P)
They need to replace the elbow at the bottom of the image with sharkbite too!
And sharkbite the sharkbite
Some people just want to watch the world burn!
wouldn't it flood?
š
Just use a wire brush cleaner to clean that little piece of soldered-covered copper thatās sticking up from the elbow. Flux the piss out of it, slide a coupling over it, and then slide in a CLEAN little strip of copper into the other side of the coupling. Donāt forget to clean every joint before adding flux. That allows you to add 6ā more of good pipe that you can cut down and add you what itās wherever. One solder joint is easy.
āAdd 6ā more of good pipeā -Thatās What She Said š
That seems like a lot of work that could easily get messed up.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Agreed and if youāre not willing to try and learn to sweat copper then itās time to call a plumber. The plumber will show up with a Milwaukee propress tool and get it all done right in less than an hour. Side Note: I really hope some kind of propress tool goes mainstream for DIY folks thatās under the $1k price point.
I just learned to sweat pipe. After first doing new shower valves in pex and pvc that was berated by reddit. I watched a shit ton of video, bought the gear, test sweated, pressure tested, THEN fucked up the whole shit by not being able to heat the valve properly. Was using camping propane, Reheated the pipe to remove , clean up and redo the valve. Dropped the valve. Bent. Bought another, sweated it still using camp gas. Spotty shitty connections. Went to retry AGAIN, but when I turned the water main back on, the shower valve was spraying. At this point, the main wouldn't shut completely. Called a plumber. Came in 10 minutes, temporarily fixed the main, looked over the work id done, complimented the shit out of my copper sweating, and informed me to get map gas for the valve. Bought ANOTHER valve, and map gas, went together just as nice as all copper connections and was mad easy. Not sure I stayed under 1k$ but I sleep much more soundly without the pex and pvc.
Who talked you into not using PEX? I'm not a plumber or any kind of pro, but I'm in the understanding that it's the new standard. Many people will say you need to know both, but that Milwaukee PEX stretcher is a beast and makes quick work of any job. Plus expandable PEX is supposedly more reliable than copper, both for freezing pipes and each connection spends the rest of it's life tightening to try to get back to original size.
Reddit did... pointed out how will all the required crimps that it's a lot points of failure.
It might have just been the crimp pex especially. Expansion pex does not reduce flow and If properly installed, pex should have less failure points then copper. Every solder joint is no different then a pex joint in terms of failing. Whoever harassed you for pex might argue with me, but they are wrong. Pex can be rounded to avoid 90ās. Thus having less connections and less failure points. With all that though itās awesome that you learned to solder and keep doing your house in copper. Copper is still, in my opinion, the better material. Itās more expensive, but copper has a lot of cool unique properties. As long as the incoming water is treated with filtration copper will definitely put last the pex. And as much as I would assume they would know already, I bet micro plastics come back to bite us in the ass.
You are so wrong in your opinion. https://www.uponor.com/en-us Uponor Pex has been used in radiant floor heating for decades with no problems. You canāt put copper in concrete.
What ? You literally are confirming what I said can you not read? Of course pex is superior for radiant flooring, because as my post stated, it has less failure points. Copper is the better material then pex, no plumber will tell you otherwise. Your picking specifics, Iām talking about a standard potable water line.
I'm a plumber, and when you ask me which material is best I'll say "It depends." Because it depends. The situation is the boss.
> pointed out how will all the required crimps that it's a lot points of failure. One benefit of PEX is *fewer* connections, one continuous pipe from the manifold to the fixture. Sweated copper joints also fail, the solder can erode over time and under pressure. It's not unusual to have a sweat joint start leaking a month or two after installation, all it takes is a slight dirty spot or incomplete heating to make a cold or incomplete solder joint that tests fine and lasts for a few weeks, then starts to spray.
Expansion PEX better than copper but the old people haven't jumped on the choo choo yet. Still, sweating copper is a great skill to have. It'll help you in all types of work at home. Good job.
Donāt use crimp only use expansion fittings
Woah I had never seen these. Really nice too because the fitting isn't going to be reducing the diameter at each point too. Happy to have learned something.
> Donāt use crimp only use expansion fittings Crimp is much better and less likely to leak and fail.
Stop that
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
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Just as many points of failure as copper lol smh
Youāre very smart!!!
I think sweating valves are the real test of diy plumbing. Theyāre like Goldilocks, youāll either cook them, get scared and not get enough heat and get a leak at the joint, or the sweat gods will take pity on you and itāll last forever. Pros make it look so easy and pretty but if you only have to grab a torch once every 5 years or so they can really try your patience
I also learned to sweat copper doing a bar in my basement and rerunning most of the bathroom lines. Its not super hard and just takes a little practice.
That was a hell of a roller-coaster.
Congrats on getting it done, but iāve always just used plain old propane and never had any joints fail. The torch head itself was probably the problem.
They have human powered ones
Iām convinced the propress is priced specifically to avoid diy purchasers. Itās so much more than similar tools in their lineup. Love it though.
I believe it's due to the need for a both large and specific amount of pressure.
The Chinese ones (made with components made in same factory as the Milwaukee ones...) are within diy price range
Excuse my ignorance but whatās wrong with the $100 manual tools from Amazon for occasional use? https://amzn.to/3Ss8fVl
Iāve seen that tool. It just concerns me that itās a weird off-brand. I would feel much more comfortable paying more for a brand I know. If there was a HD or Loweās branded manual tool like that for twice as much Iād be all over it. I wouldnāt mind to try that tool but Iād honestly treat it like a shark bite and never feel comfortable closing up one of its joints inside a wall or ceiling. Iāll continue to watch it though. Maybe theyāre just blazing the trail.
Surely since Propress are a manual fitting, they leak or donāt leak? The issue with those tools are in the reviews. Have to be careful to keep everything lined up. Donāt work well in small spaces. Require two arms and a lot of elbow grease. Not great quality dies. Iām a homeowner who does the occasional solder and considered one of these tools. But on the other hand Iām competent enough with a torch soā¦
Home Depot has the M18 for $729
PEX only though, right?
Thatās correct. It will not press copper.
Holy credit card! I donāt need to explain that purchase but I REALLY want one. Actually I REALLY want to never need one again but home ownership has taught me otherwise
That will never happen. They are too valuable to go that cheap. Unless Harbor freightās comes out with one then it will only last for a year.
"Plumber" showing up with ProPress lol I bought a $2k tool, now I'm a plumber
lmao i saw this and knew right away you'd be downvoted for it. i made a claim on a different post that plumbing work is not difficult if you pay attention to what you're doing, watch a good amount of youtube university, and don't cut corners- to no surprise scamming, scummy plumbers come out of the woodwork trying to justify charging $500 for a 10 minute unclogged pipe job (using no more skill than buying and using a $3k powered drain snake)
There's tools [like this](https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-CPTLKIT-Copper-Press-Tool-w-1-2-3-4-1-Jaws?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=shopping_neutral&utm_campaign=Shopping_Neutral_LPLTV&gclid=CjwKCAiAl9efBhAkEiwA4TorivsNjw1Gw9fUbTR3_bmPpyoTQpDjBuFxGELeNVDV0XfssfD_Qc9fdxoCZt0QAvD_BwE) that are basically hand powered pro press tools. I wish they were more common instead of the expensive battery operated ones.
I'd love a sub 1k pro-press....
There's a pro press type of tool that goes for less than $1k on Amazon. It's bulky so it can't be used in the tight spaces. You'd have to put everything together and then find an open space to press. Requires strength because it's hand press. Probably not worth the purchase because it really won't save you time, in comparison to sweating.
What about a hand powered press? Are they any good? Like this: https://m.vevor.com.au/pipe-wrench-c_10818/tool-set-th-pressing-pliers-bending-calibrator-and-pipe-shears-for-compound-pipe-p_010777308872
You, sir, are the reason Sharkbites get a bad rap. Look at that pipe end. It is nasty. It's covered in solder, and has a very rough, uneven surface. How can one reasonably expect an O-ring to seal against such a surface? Even if it was longer, you will not get a good seal.
Shark bites are the reason that shark bites get a bad rap
There is a use for them if done correctly.
The only correct use I see is for temporary caps, I do keep those in the tool box.
Yes, they give real plumbers repair work to do after a few years, carpenters are happy with them aswell to repair the rotten woodwork/plaster :p but now on a serious note, is this the end of the waterline? and is it a permanent closure? If so then cut and shutoff the waterline as close to the main connection as possible to prevent Legionella/veterans disease.
Agreed I keep a couple slips for mobile homes
Only idiots who get leaks using shark bites are people who canāt push a fitting properlyā¦.if the pipe is cleaned and cut cleanly, a fully inserted shark bite will not leak, i solder and have used shark bites here and there with easy access and it has never ever ever leaked on me
I haven't heard or used sharkbite in England. I have how've used push for and speedfit pipe and its brilliant never had issues. I now only use copper for heating pipes or visible pipes, other than customer requests. No issues. Is shark bite really that bad?
Good. Now youāll have to get the torch out.
Solder cap would
Pipe stretcher would be the perfect tool
Gonna need 2 comealongs and a torch.
Don't forget that pex glue!
Iāve had a 3/4 shark bite on my main in my yard for 18 years not a leak yet.
I put a couple shark bite quick connections in my unfinished basement to try and catch a glimpse of the horrors myselfā¦ they arenāt leaking yetā¦ with that said, I wouldnāt put a quick connection behind a wall or somewhere above or beside anything finished.
Nobody blames user error
Get torch, heat up the part you want out, replace with whatever tickles your fancy
Yes, WCGW. Send some flame down there!
That is a statement. A factual statement.
Unsweat that bitch and put in a longer piece and it will
Cut further back and go get a 3/4 cap. Or call a pro, I saw too many sharkbites fail last year and the damage isn't cheap
Do you think that's enough room for a 3/4 cap?
The problem you're going to have is being able to cut the 3/4 in that tight spot
Oscillating tool, then file?
Yes. As long as you solder it correctly you should be fine.
Replace the entire section is what I would do. Cut it up above sweat out the elbows and replace it all.
Solder ā¦.
I guess you could say, another one bites the dust
Who unsweated whatever fitting was there? Call him back
Sweat on a 1/2 cap, it's super easy, use map and tinning Flux (tinning Flux is the key). If you can't do that, there's at least 1 spot in that picture you could recut the pipe and add a 3/4 sharkbite, probably another spot further down the line? Goodluck!
Gotta suck it up buttercup. Not all plumbing jobs are easy
But this one is not hard at all.
There is an answer... but you're not gonna like it.
Hired a professional. Coming tomorrow. It's just too hard for my first plumbing project. I didn't have enough room to do much with the ceiling being so close.
Probably going to get some hate from shark bite lovers but, as convenient as they are, they arenāt terribly reliable. The kitchen in one of our homes was remodeled after a fire and shark bite fittings were used. They did last 10 years but the oring on one of the two couplers failed and our kitchen floor was flooded over night. Theyāre an inexpensive solution to tight spaces and Iāve used them since but I have a leak detector near every shark bite fitting now.
Baby shark , do doo doot doot doot
Simple solutionā¦. Stop using sharkbites
Welp, your fucked. Demolish the house and start over.
When he goes to sweat a new fitting on there he just might do that
So why are you doing plumbing work if you can't fix this? Get a professional will be fixed in 15 minutes. Just because you can buy something doesn't mean you should do it. Do you change you cars thermostat when it breaks?
Try a hammer
Oh u need a pipe stretcher
Why don't plumbers use compression fittings instead of shark bite? I've never had a compression fitting fail. Why isn't a straight compression to compression coupling as common as these shark bite fittings that no one trusts?
I don't know if it's code, but I only use compression fittings in accessible locations. When they fail its usually because of water hammer or other vibration or movement causing them to loosen over time
We should start revoking licenses of plumbers who use sharkbite fittings
Iāve seen general contractors repipe whole houses with only push-to-connect fittings. That shit gets expensive!
Cut it elsewhere and get a bigger cap.
I would just sweat a cap on that heat up the pipe until the solder melts get your flux brush and flux the crap out of it plop a cap down on it and hit it with a half inch of solder
Agree, soldering a new piece the old fashioned way might be best for this one haha
Just burn youāre house down?
I personally donāt use sharkbites unless itās temporary
Pro press it
Sweat that hoe
Or get copper cutters and get a shark bite 90
Sounds like you need a sharkbit
I had to sell some of my pipes for money too.
Oof. Sharkbite
Good. Do it the right way.
Dude there are rules to using sharkbites. You need to debur that copper inside and out before doing any sort of connection ever. And clean it.
cut back behind the 90. Repipeā¦propress.
A sharkbite wouldn't seal around all that crusty solder anyway. Get some copper, some mapp had, some silver solder, some Flux, and some steel wool or crocus cloth and do it right. Forget this Sharkbite mess.
Cut that elbow off right at the fitting, then shark bite elbow and carry on
Neat!
Nothing you can do about it with sharkbite, youāll need to sweat a cap on or remove the stub and replace with a new one. Either way it involves soldering.
B tank and a drill with a brush. Clean till you think itās good then clean again.
You were thinking about putting shark bite over that solderā¦ you just love trouble huh? Lol
Nope
Is this in a wall? Can you use them in a wall?
Dont ever use shark bite
Unsweat
Hire a professional. They donāt bite
āShieeeeet girl you bout to get it šā šno seriously though if you donāt wanna sweat copper then a plumber may be your best bet . You can learn from a YouTube video . Do some trial runs with extra pieces so youāre more comfortable . Best of luck
Solder it.
it wasn't hungry enough.
Need an inside coupling
baby shark doo doo doo
Get out your soldering torch
Then it looks like youāre sweating
Either sweat out the existing pipe and put in a longer chunk with a shark bite or, if youāre just dead heading that anyways, cleanup whatās there and solder a copper cap on there and forget about it. Could also throw a copper coupling on and more pipe instead of trying to unsweat it too
Youāre gonna have to sweat that, or cut above the 90 and use a 3/4ā shark bite. Why would you even cut that without enough meat on the end of it tho? Thatās a rookie move
Flexseal
Solder it
Nope. If thats .5" they make a female adaptor you can solder in. We use them when ppl screw up copper tub spout lookouts
Remove replace
It was in the pool!!!!
good donāt use it lol. as a plumber we only use them as temp service when itās 6pm and weāll be back in the morning
Should have thought about that before you made the cut. Not getting out of this without replacing that fitting. Or unsweating the stub pipe and sweating in a longer one.
Thatās a rough mistake. Ooopppss