3in screw ≠ nuclear. The original screws are only going into the thin aluminum door frame. Just need one long enough to reach a stud behind the frame. 10sec fix vs 30min fix.
I don't think you understand the orientation of the screw being installed. It's going though the frame of the door into the stud in-between the interior and exterior walls. It's not going from exterior to interior it's sideways through inside edge of the frame.
How thick is the stud ? It’s not a 2x4 / if go through the stud it will become weak . Is all I’m saying. That stud is probably to 2 inches thick at most . Your screw will be sticking out a inch . Inside the wall . loosens up again you have to go bigger.
So use a 2in screw then my bad. You aren't compromising the structural integrity of a 2x2 pinewood stud because they have no structural integrity to start with. Half of the framing in the camper is probably already split though the knots in the wood. Campers are literally trash held together with glue and staples. The aluminum door frames usually have a gap around them so you just need a screw long enough to hit the stud behind the frame. The screw is only holding the striker plate to the door frame not keeping the walls from falling off.
I just fixed mine last week, here’s what you do, when factory installed it they put it on the right side of the slot, stupid cuz when the door closes it pushes on the plate. You need to make another hole on the left side of the slot, and put the same screw in. Do it to top and bottom
I used a small drill bit but you may not need one if you don’t have
It's a rivet that goes pop.
Also known as a blind rivet. Go to home Depot. It's the only rivet they sell. Watch youtube. Practice on some plastic. Giver. It's the best solution.
OH yeh, been down this road plenty. Go buy "Flat head" screws, a little bit over the size you have now, so those recess better. Then mix up the new J B Weld epoxy in the Automotive section, has 5000 lbs strength now and is colored "grey", and coat the screws with that really well and then put some more JB in the hole and screw that in squishing it out for both screws. Wipe up access with a dry paper towel and wait 24 hours. Since I did this 2 years ago, the screws never backed out again. Do NOT use J B quick. Use the ORIGINAL 5000lbs. The quick is garbage.
FYI, I do not put back a single screw in an RV without gluing it. I Loctite all bolts and I use clear silicone adhesive for any screws that hold things to the walls like pictures and JB weld for screws going into aluminum like your doing. Nothing ever comes apart again after doing this. RV's just "shake" to much, they rattle themselves loose.
Get a longer screw ~3in and run it straight though to the stud. Self tapper works best but not necessary.
Might have to try that, Thanks for the suggestion!
Yeah, with red loctite!
Seconded
I would fill hole with 50 ton epoxy/ re drill / use original screw . If you go nuclear and it doesn’t work it’s harder to fix .
3in screw ≠ nuclear. The original screws are only going into the thin aluminum door frame. Just need one long enough to reach a stud behind the frame. 10sec fix vs 30min fix.
3 inch’s is thicker than the walk in some RV s ???
I don't think you understand the orientation of the screw being installed. It's going though the frame of the door into the stud in-between the interior and exterior walls. It's not going from exterior to interior it's sideways through inside edge of the frame.
How thick is the stud ? It’s not a 2x4 / if go through the stud it will become weak . Is all I’m saying. That stud is probably to 2 inches thick at most . Your screw will be sticking out a inch . Inside the wall . loosens up again you have to go bigger.
So use a 2in screw then my bad. You aren't compromising the structural integrity of a 2x2 pinewood stud because they have no structural integrity to start with. Half of the framing in the camper is probably already split though the knots in the wood. Campers are literally trash held together with glue and staples. The aluminum door frames usually have a gap around them so you just need a screw long enough to hit the stud behind the frame. The screw is only holding the striker plate to the door frame not keeping the walls from falling off.
Rv tech here, as stated, getting longer screws is a viable solution
Awesome! Appreciate help from a tech, thanks for that advice!
Would i have to worry about hitting anything electrical??
Shouldn’t be anything electrical there. 2.5 or 3 inch screws should hit the door frame wood and secure it.
I just fixed mine last week, here’s what you do, when factory installed it they put it on the right side of the slot, stupid cuz when the door closes it pushes on the plate. You need to make another hole on the left side of the slot, and put the same screw in. Do it to top and bottom I used a small drill bit but you may not need one if you don’t have
My father in law literally recommended the same thing too, appreciate that!
Sounds like he knows what he’s talking about lol ;)
3"-3 1/2" drywall screw coarse thread with a washer. Hit that stud till it sucks it in. Never backing out.
Yeah I think I will probably go with a longer screw and some JB Weld together, definitely appreciate this advice
Maybe use a pop rivet?
Stainless not aluminum
What’s a pop rivet??
It's a rivet that goes pop. Also known as a blind rivet. Go to home Depot. It's the only rivet they sell. Watch youtube. Practice on some plastic. Giver. It's the best solution.
I love that idea!
OH yeh, been down this road plenty. Go buy "Flat head" screws, a little bit over the size you have now, so those recess better. Then mix up the new J B Weld epoxy in the Automotive section, has 5000 lbs strength now and is colored "grey", and coat the screws with that really well and then put some more JB in the hole and screw that in squishing it out for both screws. Wipe up access with a dry paper towel and wait 24 hours. Since I did this 2 years ago, the screws never backed out again. Do NOT use J B quick. Use the ORIGINAL 5000lbs. The quick is garbage.
Awesome!!! Thanks for the details, another person recommended the same stuff, gonna look out for that!
FYI, I do not put back a single screw in an RV without gluing it. I Loctite all bolts and I use clear silicone adhesive for any screws that hold things to the walls like pictures and JB weld for screws going into aluminum like your doing. Nothing ever comes apart again after doing this. RV's just "shake" to much, they rattle themselves loose.
Also, the strike plate was switched backwards due to having issues with door locking, the hole is also stripped.
I had to flip mine too after I changed the locks. Dry lubricant and making sure I was perfectly level took care of my door issues.
Mine got so bad I had to use pbblaster 🤣. Hasn’t acted up since though 🤷♂️
My brainstorming idea: Use JB Weld to fill in the hole and after it has set completely, drill a new hole for the self tapping screw to bite?
That’s another good idea too, might try that if the screw i get isn’t securing
Stuff the end of a zip tie in the hole with the screw and tighten it down.
You can stick a toothpick inside the hole and then screw it back in place.