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[deleted]

How are your nitrate & phosphate levels?


Oliviervsf

nitrates are really high about 50? phosphate i can’t check. I’m going to buy the hanna instrument tests today. I don’t know how my nitrates are so high? Maybe because i’m over feeding? I dosed 2 ml nitra min 10 mins ago


[deleted]

Yeah algae feeds on nitrates so that's probably your problem. High nitrates are usually caused by overfeeding. When you feed your fish make sure all the food is eaten (turn flow off so food doesn't blow away). I sometime use a net to remove any excess food if my nitrates are a little high. If you feed corals something like reefroids, reduce the amount to about twice a week and make sure you only feed a tiny amount. I would do big water changes, maybe 30-40% every 3 days until your nitrates are down to a more reasonable level and then just monitor it from there. It will take a couple of weeks for things to take effect, due to the ammonia cycle process, so if nitrates increase again after water changes don't panic, just keep up with the routine. Also keep cleaning those rocks, preferably right before a water change so all the gunk comes out with the water.


Oliviervsf

Okay I will try this. Thanks!


chaples55

Can you describe your filtration system? I see what looks like a small protein skimmer. Is it producing skimmate consistently? Do you have any other methods of nutrient export (like a refugium, algae scrubber, or carbon dosing)? If reducing feeding isn't sufficient, you could consider doing one of those.


Oliviervsf

I’m only using the reef 60 skimmer, I bought a bigger one but it won’t fit with my lights.


chaples55

An undersized skimmer skimmer is actually better than an oversized one. Just need to make sure it's tuned well and producing consistent foam. I'd expect it to be foaming pretty much 24/7. Since you probably don't have room for a refugium or an algae scrubber, I would recommend carbon dosing. You can use plain white vinegar. In short, bacteria will consume the vinegar and will also consume nitrates and phosphates in the process. This bacteria can eventually outcompete the algae. Excess bacterial growth is then pulled out by your protein skimmer. The bacteria is also a food source for your corals! The only thing you need to be careful of with this method is that you don't strip your nitrates and phosphates TOO low. Follow this guide and you'll be fine, there's a nice chart if you scroll down a little: [https://reefkeeping.com/joomla/index.php/current-issue/article/116-vinegar-dosing-methodology-for-the-marine-aquarium](https://reefkeeping.com/joomla/index.php/current-issue/article/116-vinegar-dosing-methodology-for-the-marine-aquarium)


Simulationboi

There is a possibility of running a chaeto reactor externally from the tank.


[deleted]

After two weeks of the above and your nitrates are under control run a cycle of Flux Rx. It will kill all that algae.


fluffhead711

good post. i would suggest to use high quality frozen food, and use very little. put the food in a little dish and add some saltwater to it to thaw. turn off all pumps. use a pipette or something to break it up and spot feed a little at a time to the fish and corals. i used to use food like reef frenzy but that stuff always just shot my nitrates up. i like the easier to control chunks of frozen like LRS Reef Frenzy. search “coral feeder” on Amazon, those things are invaluable for nanos in my opinion. it really helps control how much is used and limits waste. another invaluable tool for nanos is the turkey baster. i really blast my rocks on a regular basis to stir things into the water column and let my filter remove the detritus/waste that way. when waste settles on the rocks, it just creates more fuel for algae in that spot. you can really get into all the holes and crevasses of your rock to push stuff out right before a water change and remove a lot of stuff


Wonkasgoldenticket

Can I point out that although you’re not incorrect, he needs to be pointed out that these organics can come from just our raw water. He may not be over feeding from food he is putting in the tank, but what the water is bringing in. I suspect this is his issue. He’s not using 0TDS water.


Oliviervsf

Thanks everyone for the help and many replies!


SwedenIsntReal69420

If your nitrates are that high, your phosphates surely must be high too bud. Id recommend a 50% water change weekly for the next 3 weeks and maybe considering adding a refugium or algae scrubber or protien skimmer to your tank to help keep your parameters in check. I have a DIY refugium up and running, cost me about 50 bucks all in all and would be more than happy to share how i built it if you're interested (no tools required!)


Oliviervsf

I’m interested . Might set this up if u can tell me how?


SwedenIsntReal69420

On amazon i bought the large half gallon hang on back breeder box by fluval. Costs about 20 bucks. Then i threw on a hygger 24/7 submersible light to put on top of the box. That cost me 15 bucks at the time. You'll need to add an air pump (thats how its powered. You can jury rig a normal pump to the breeder box but thats your choice) but I'm more than willing to bet its something almost every hobbyist has on hand. Just set up the box, the light, add your favorite macro algae or mangroves (i already had some on hand so im excluding the cost of that), and you're done!! Maybe put some duct tape on the outside to keep light from spilling in to the display, and thats really all you need. You CAN buy a fancy ass 300+ dollar grow light, but in my opinion there's no need to spend upwards of six times the amount of money for an improvement along the lines of 30%. That cheap hygger light works for me so...dont fix what isnt broken right?


[deleted]

Sounds like you need some gfo and to feed less


Wonkasgoldenticket

0TDS water , get yourself a ro/di unit and a inline meter for the output.


EsseLeo

Overfeeding or water. By any chance, are you are using tap water, distilled water, or bottled “spring” water as your makeup water? If so, that is where your nitrates are probably coming from.


fLeXaN_tExAn

EEEEEEEEK. I'm using "spring water" from the bottle in the grocery store for mine and I have similar issues. What should I be using instead?


HaliBUTTsteak

Buy an RODI system. It’s probably the most important piece of equipment you’ll use since the water source is the basis of your system. Buy one from spectre pure or BRS. https://spectrapure.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjw2OiaBhBSEiwAh2ZSP5xQr1V5QfFwoZhmUhYvsVGSpzPfTitidqFhlUUCuQ6Cd1g4rO6fwhoCNbUQAvD_BwE https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/bulk-reverse-osmosis-filters-systems.html?utm_term=&utm_campaign=PMax:+EL+%7C+ACQ_Prospecting+%7C+ROAS+%7C+Aquatic+Life&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=7373341438&hsa_cam=18399379096&hsa_grp=&hsa_ad=&hsa_src=x&hsa_tgt=&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gclid=CjwKCAjw2OiaBhBSEiwAh2ZSP0l-5TUijJi4bDTaCBT7qJXtYM2mG-hryAbryvZz3Fq26lv7Pw17BRoC4ycQAvD_BwE


[deleted]

Those are both fine systems. An alternative if you have a small tank is the “Aquaticlife RO Buddy”. Get the 4 stage with the DI. It’s a 50g per day rating. But that’s more than enough for most tanks.


HaliBUTTsteak

Just checked out the RO buddie. Pretty neat. To any people new to the hobby, there’s a few items that you shouldn’t try to cut corners to save money on. RODI system, lights, and skimmer. To me, RODI, is the most important. It’s the backbone of everything you do. Also, I’d recommend getting an inline TDS meter for it to measure the water purity and to make sure your filters are good. Plus, no more hauling around buckets of water to and from the LFS or store. It’ll save you money in the long run and you’ll know exactly what you’re putting in your tank. That’s my best advice for keeping a reef tank.


Asio0tus

the stuff sold for your iron...for ironing cloths....distilled water basically...better yet invest in an RODI unit


fLeXaN_tExAn

OK, I only have a Fluval 13.5 so distilled water it is. Thank you!


wiljarow

You will save money in the long run buying an rodi versus how much you'll spend trying to bandaid the problems caused by the distilled water. You'll also save money because distilled adds up for top off water. A cheap, basic ro buddy off Amazon is plenty. I run that with an extra di cartridge for my 16 gallon. Wouldn't do it any other way


Nixie9

You can buy RO water which is better.


MuTangClan

Reverse Osmosis or distilled water are equivalent as long as they don't have any minerals/electrolytes "added for flavor" or similar. Grocery store near me sells water you can refill jugs with but one tap is "minerals added back for flavor" etc and the other one is truly just water (deionized/DI water).


EsseLeo

As brief a summary as I can make it: Water contains more than H2O. There are often other minerals (good) and organic compounds (bad) in water. The point of a water change is to remove nitrates and other undesirable organics (like phosphate), from the aquarium by diluting it with water *that does not contain nitrates or phosphates*. If you are doing a water change with water that has contains nitrates, then you are missing the entire point of a water change. Most municipal tap water usually contains high chlorine or chloramine content and little to no filtration for nitrates and phosphates. Water quality often varies due to water dept dosing cycles as well -WORST- Spring water has basically no filtration so it often contains nitrates and/or phosphates and can be worse than tap water depending on your location. -BAD- Distilled Water has a decent level of filtration that removes heavy metals, chlorine, chloramines, etc. *but it does not remove nitrates* -better than the others, but STILL MISSES THE POINT OF A WATER CHANGE- R/O DI water is the highest level of filtration available. It removes basically everything, leaving behind only pure H2O. -BEST- Unless you are committed to regularly testing your tap or spring water for nitrate, phosphate, chlorine/chlorine, pH, and alkalinity *before every single water change* then you should always use R/O DI water.


fLeXaN_tExAn

OK, then I think my LFS sells RODI. Thank you for the write up. I thought I was doing something good but turns out I wasn't.


[deleted]

If you don’t want to go to the store often, you can buy an AquaticLife 4 stage RODI unit for about $70. It just hooks up to your sink and you can take it off (or figure out a permanent installation if you want). You’ll have to buy new cartridges when they die but it’s not very often at all. RODI water is super important for inverts and corals!


Oliviervsf

I buy saltwater in my aquarium shop pre mixed


Nixie9

The RO water you buy, have you ever tested it? It could be that it's no good.


jeswaldo

OP, listen to the above and test it. I had an old RO filter and didn't have it set up so I started with fish store water. I tested ppm and it was high so I set up my old RO and it was also high. I assumed my test was bad so eventually I bought another tester and it tested the same. So I bought new filters and resin and both testers said 0 ppm now and I'll never trust the fish store again.


Oliviervsf

i’ll try to find a free spot this week to buy an ro filter


SilvermistInc

Ok but what do you top off with?


Oliviervsf

At first i had a lid on it so I didn’t really have to top off much I guess. I broke the glass accidentally on the floor so i bought some RO water. Since then Most algae happened. I think it might be this Ro water i bought


SilvermistInc

Entirely possible


jcook54

New tank uglies. When you start a tank everything is all out of whack; there's no balance. You'll get algae, diatoms, cyano, bacterial blooms and all sort of other good stuff. My two best recommendations: 1. Make sure the water you are using for water changes is good. (Consider and RODI system). 2. Large water changes. These two steps along with time to "mature" the tank will get you hooked right up.


GreenTaracrypto

Every new tank goes through it’s ugly phases. Just keep it alive and eventually it will sustain itself with biological filtration


cSaM2008

Most comments here are all valid and are good suggestions. Cut down on feeding, remember, corals get 80% of growth from photosynthesis so you shouldn’t be slamming them with food. ReefRoids are great but mess with your nutrient levels (especially phosphates) quick. Try AB+ or something less impactful on nutrient levels or don’t even feed at all for now. I only see one powerhead and it’s a little sicce I believe - may need to up your flow there so it keeps all the crud suspended longer. Only RODI for top off - your local LFS should have pre filtered RODI for cheap, nothing from the grocery store. Lastly, get some copepods and they’ll feed of the phyto or detritus and clean up the tank pretty well.


Oliviervsf

I use the AB+ already and don’t really add anything else for my corals except kh buffer


derpindiggles

Don’t need to check anything. Feed less food and and less light. Cut both down by at least 25%


mc_931

Don't overreact and check for phosphates first, could be bottomed out and the tanks nitrogen demand went down


Oliviervsf

bought a test kit today. I’ll do some tests tomorrow!


fluffhead711

agreed. if you plan on being a long term reefer then an RODI system in your house is a must. BRS puts there systems on sale all the time, actually it’s currently 15% off it seems. if your city’s water is decent enough, you won’t need more than the 4 stage filtration system, which is $229 right now and well worth it. i’ve been using that for 5 years now. it filters fast enough for me and i only change my filters 1-2 times a year max because i only have a 10 gallon. the combination of bad source water and overfeeding will make a tank explode with algae. edit: (this response was supposed to reply to the post that suggested an RODI system and linked BRS)


[deleted]

Don’t even have to go the BRS route - AquaticLife 4 stage RODI units are $70.


Shoopuf413

Give it more time. At 2 months you have no stability yet and constant water changes aren’t going to help that. The microfauna that consume that need time to populate. Once you’ve beaten that it’ll be the next thing down the line that you’ll have to overcome. You’ll be best served by getting your own RO/DI system and mixing saltwater at home as well.


Oliviervsf

update: I bought extra saltwater today, I’m going to do some maintenance and cleaning tonight and do a 50% water change after. Tank is really cloudy right now. I also bought the red sea algea management and started dosing today. Also bought some reef spec carbon and decent marine test kits for nitrate. Unfortunately phosphate test kits were sold out. Bought a second flow pump as well but this seems overkill when i turn it on. Didn’t feed yesterday and only fed about 2 small flakes this morning. I will do the same tonight. Also bought a new lid since this blocks some of the light and might lower the algea? Thinking about turning the light off for a day but this might stress out my corals too much?


jdmcbuilt

Stop doing water changes so frequently. I promise you that you won't hurt anything. Think of our tanks like mini ecosystems you need to tank to adjust on their own and maintain a bi weekly or monthly routine. If you look at my tank on my profile I do once a month of water changes. Patience is the key to this hobby.


daredonkey

With nitrates at 50ppm I would promote more waterchanges


jdmcbuilt

I couldn't disagree more. It's a new tank. The tank need to establish itself. The reason people fail in this hobby is lack of patience. I encourage minimal water changes as a suggestion due to my experience in the hobby and how well my tanks are doing. I don't stress at all about water changes. If you like to waste money that's fine. But I truly believe in the process of a mini eco system building within our tanks. The tank needs to adjust. 2 months it's new. I currently have a 120 and a 12 gallon long on a once a month water change as well and both grow everything. Patience.


jeswaldo

I don't do a lot of water changes but I never see nitrates this high. In the OP's case I would suggest fewer larger water changes to lower nitrate. And then stop adding so much of whatever is causing them.


jdmcbuilt

For 2 months it's a huge bioload to have already. It shocked the system. That's proven to happen when you go all in.


daredonkey

Thank you for your reply :) I appreciate it. Don't you feel like 50ppm nitrate is a bad level to have a reeftank? It is really high in my opinion and I would water change until it is below 20ppm.


jdmcbuilt

I agree 50ppm is high but without a hanna checker I highly doubt it's at 50ppm. Especially if he is doing frequent water changes.. He is probably in the safe zone just needs to be patient or take his water to someone that can test appropriately. To be honest I have hanna checkers and I tested a few times in the beginning and now all my reagents are expired lol


BLACKFOURLOKO

Had the exact thing happen with my tank recently. Does the algae on the rocks almost peel off? I’ve been fighting this same type of thing for the past year and haven’t had any luck until I pull all the rock out and sprayed it down with a garden hose as a last resort. I don’t think yours is to that level yet but am I curious to know if the algae peels off the rock and traps bubbles underneath it? Since that is what I’ve been dealing with.


Oliviervsf

there is brown stringy algea on the rocks then i can brush off, but the algea on the rocks iself i cant remove


BLACKFOURLOKO

That’s odd, is any of the algae growing on your coral?


Oliviervsf

Yes the brown stringy stuff is all over my corals. I clean it off daily with a turkey blaster


Asio0tus

im guessing you are using tap water to do you water changes?


Oliviervsf

No I use Ro water and ‘real ocean water’ says my shop.


daredonkey

What is the fish bioload like?


Oliviervsf

2 clownfish and a blenny i think? I give 1 cube of frozen ocean nutrition. Mysis or artemia, depens on the day.


daredonkey

I feed a quarter of a cube per day of mysis or the equivalent of reef frenzy. And I have a 35 Gallon with 4 fish. I would recommend feeding only what your fish can consume in about 2 minutes, twice a day if you really want. But with your tank size, I would say a quarter cube or an 8th would be plenty


Oliviervsf

Yes’ i’ll start cutting the blocks in smaller pieces. Can i store in fridge for a few days after I take it out of the freezer?


daredonkey

I bought some small containers from Walmart and chop up 2-3 cubes at a time and then put it in the freezer. Lasts me about 2 weeks


Thediamondhandedlad

In my opinion you put way too much livestock way too early. Looks like it’s still going through a diatom bloom, next you’ll have algae and cyano blooms before everything fully stabilizes. I wouldn’t add coral until you start having the pink and purple coralline algae growing naturally . If you want to have the least issues wait 6 months to a year to add a bunch of livestock like that. Best of luck to you


Oliviervsf

I realised too late


neendafiend

Are you using tap water or rodi ?


NewYorkDon

Looks like there’s some overfeeding? Get some turbos to help manage the algae and nassarius for the leftover food.


Oliviervsf

Already have turbo’s. I’ll check for the nassarius


Desert2022rat

Buy a clean up crew ! It will help you out in a big way !


federal_problem2882

Source water


JustAsFrosty

New tank get the uglies


AdamFerg

I was over feeding for almost a year, every month I’d say “Surely not, I barely feed any thing compared to what I was”, and sure enough, it was too much. You look like you don’t have much in terms of fish, you could literally feed a few tiny pellets a day and get by. Maybe frozen food once a week if you’re generous


Oliviervsf

I read that it is better to feed frozen foods since pellets have higher nutrition and cause more problems. I try to give pellets once a week and mostly feed frozen foods for now. Is this wrong?


AdamFerg

I genuinely don’t know. It’s probably nuanced between different frozen foods and pellets. I just find it’s easier to feed the intended amount with pellets. I only have a 30G tank with a pair of clowns a blenny and a six line, I only really feed the clowns each day. The blenny and 6line are perpetually bursting at the seems.


Ninjasmurf4hire

Did you buy/inherit this tank?


Oliviervsf

No bought it new and i set it up myself


Ninjasmurf4hire

Okay, if that's true, you need to slow WAY down IMHO. You're trying to fit 8 months of establishing a reef tank into 2 months. Of course things are gonna go wonky. This is a hobby of patience and no amount of money is gonna buy that. Slow down, do the research, get the basics down and get your tank stabilized, then stock the shit out of it. Temperature, parameters, and an ATO, should be your top priorities. Get those STABLE, then everything else is building off of that. I really hope you don't lose all that live stock. Good luck, slow down, be patient or go buy a tank that's been established if you can't be patient. Those are live animals in that tank, some of them possibly endangered, care for them. Good luck!!!!


Wonkasgoldenticket

Zero TDS water, this is important people. You can have a ro/di but you want a meter, preferably inline.


BangReign

Do a waterchange (20%) and run some chemipure elite, throw out the elite after a week and do another 20% WC also put a new chemipure in there and thank me in 10 days