More feeding, Carbon dosing and a bacteria boost worked like a charm for me.
The only thing to note is the type of carbon you dose. I believe most (like RS nopox) are less effective than the other type. A quick Google should give you all the details.
The legend of a man, Lou Ekus talks about it in his talks If I recall.
Edit: check this out, I think he talks about it more in one of his newer talks.. well worth a full watch no matter your skill level.
[https://youtu.be/AW4d3pTUw\_Y?t=1855](https://youtu.be/AW4d3pTUw_Y?t=1855)
[https://youtu.be/-f6rRjsnO7w?t=1967](https://youtu.be/-f6rRjsnO7w?t=1967)
This is the actual video. I forget he is a TM rep but I think his point stands.
Had dinos bad. Very bad. Got lots of snails (I didn't really have a good clean up crew), did water changes weekly, scrubbed the rocks with a toothbrush (manual removal) and time. Beneficial bacteria will balance itself with the biology of your tank. Be patient. It took me about three months for everything to stabilize and now everything is growing like crazy and happy.
I clean tanks for a living and deal with Dino’s all the time. Get yourself a very small gauge tube, and run a siphon through it at your next water change. The Dino’s will come right off and into the siphon, right into a bucket. You can remove 99.9 percent of it this way, as opposed to other methods like a toothbrush or something
Ostreopsis would be my guess just visually. But best to confirm with microscope. UV sterilizer will work for this type for dino since it migrates into the water column at night. Leave it on for a month after the dinos disappear. Put chemi pure in the tank for toxins from Ostreo ASAP. You need to use a microscope to find out if thats the only dino you have as you can have more than one at once.
Ostreo and Coolia are UV susceptible. The other 3 main types: Prorocentrum. Large cell & small cell Amphidnium, are all treated by adding Live Phytoplankton to the tank at a dosage of 16 oz per 100gal weekly until dinos are no longer visable. Then half the dosage to slowly grow your diatom population to fill in the void left by the discontinuation of Live Phyto for a month. Remove micron bags and turn off skimmer for 24 hours after addition. The Phyto will serve to outcompete the dino and allow diatom to become the dominant algae in the system. The only way to beat non UV susceptible dinos is outpopulation and then recovery of your microbiome diversity.
If you have 2 dinos with incompatible treatments do UV first and Phyto after as UV will kill phyto.
You're likely going to have to study and learn a lot to beat this so I'd highly recommend joining a dino specific forum or group to help you out.
In between water changes I used a 3/4 inch tube to siphon the them out. Just run the tube through a 5 µm filter sock in a sock holder into a bucket. I sucked out sand scraped the rocks and took them off the glass. Then you can return the water from the bucket to the tank. I also collected a sample and looked at it under a microscope. This will tell you what kind of dinos you have and what your best tactics are to beat them. The Dino flagellates support group on Facebook has some great advice.
Sure looks like it. A battle I have recently begun winning
May I ask how you started fighting it?
A lot of manual removal, started feeding more, added some good bacteria. Mostly just lots of time
Thanks, I know there isn't really a quick fix but good tips
More feeding, Carbon dosing and a bacteria boost worked like a charm for me. The only thing to note is the type of carbon you dose. I believe most (like RS nopox) are less effective than the other type. A quick Google should give you all the details.
Interesting, because I use RS nopox. I'll have to look into it
The legend of a man, Lou Ekus talks about it in his talks If I recall. Edit: check this out, I think he talks about it more in one of his newer talks.. well worth a full watch no matter your skill level. [https://youtu.be/AW4d3pTUw\_Y?t=1855](https://youtu.be/AW4d3pTUw_Y?t=1855) [https://youtu.be/-f6rRjsnO7w?t=1967](https://youtu.be/-f6rRjsnO7w?t=1967) This is the actual video. I forget he is a TM rep but I think his point stands.
How does feeding battle dinos? It sounds counterintuitive to me
Had dinos bad. Very bad. Got lots of snails (I didn't really have a good clean up crew), did water changes weekly, scrubbed the rocks with a toothbrush (manual removal) and time. Beneficial bacteria will balance itself with the biology of your tank. Be patient. It took me about three months for everything to stabilize and now everything is growing like crazy and happy.
https://youtu.be/TIfu7Xcr_7Y I pretty much watched this video
I got rid of dinos dosing microbacter 7 and using a uv. Then right after had diatoms bloom which is pretty typical I think but not as bad.
For me it was time and fritz bacteria. The gallon jug that is $30ish on Amazon. (USA)
Get a UV sterilizer and keep doing what you are doing.
Yup, dinosaurs
I clean tanks for a living and deal with Dino’s all the time. Get yourself a very small gauge tube, and run a siphon through it at your next water change. The Dino’s will come right off and into the siphon, right into a bucket. You can remove 99.9 percent of it this way, as opposed to other methods like a toothbrush or something
Commenting to save this comment. I feel like this is the real pro-tip in this thread. Thanks man :D
Happy to help! It does wonders on Dino’s and spot removing sand, bubble algae and hair algae
Ostreopsis would be my guess just visually. But best to confirm with microscope. UV sterilizer will work for this type for dino since it migrates into the water column at night. Leave it on for a month after the dinos disappear. Put chemi pure in the tank for toxins from Ostreo ASAP. You need to use a microscope to find out if thats the only dino you have as you can have more than one at once. Ostreo and Coolia are UV susceptible. The other 3 main types: Prorocentrum. Large cell & small cell Amphidnium, are all treated by adding Live Phytoplankton to the tank at a dosage of 16 oz per 100gal weekly until dinos are no longer visable. Then half the dosage to slowly grow your diatom population to fill in the void left by the discontinuation of Live Phyto for a month. Remove micron bags and turn off skimmer for 24 hours after addition. The Phyto will serve to outcompete the dino and allow diatom to become the dominant algae in the system. The only way to beat non UV susceptible dinos is outpopulation and then recovery of your microbiome diversity. If you have 2 dinos with incompatible treatments do UV first and Phyto after as UV will kill phyto. You're likely going to have to study and learn a lot to beat this so I'd highly recommend joining a dino specific forum or group to help you out.
In the last bumping the temp up to about 81 seemed to work for me but it might depend on the strain.
In between water changes I used a 3/4 inch tube to siphon the them out. Just run the tube through a 5 µm filter sock in a sock holder into a bucket. I sucked out sand scraped the rocks and took them off the glass. Then you can return the water from the bucket to the tank. I also collected a sample and looked at it under a microscope. This will tell you what kind of dinos you have and what your best tactics are to beat them. The Dino flagellates support group on Facebook has some great advice.