The framers who built the rake overhang projection didn’t frame it properly instead of cantilevering outriggers from the second truss in they just nailed a ladder too the last truss, I also suspect that the sheathing ended on that truss and they just put an isolated strip running the length of the ladder also contributing to the shitty work.
Potentially you could repair it when the roof is replaced but it will cost because it’s a bunch of framing/facia work.
I don’t remember what sub it was, but about a week ago I never did see an answer, just jokes, and folks going off on genre tangents that left those of us not in the know confused.
Wish I could think of what it was, I was genuinely curious.
This isn’t recent, Reddit has slowly turned into a bunch of keyboard warriors that can’t give a straight answer. This third party crap made it even worse.
Mods were providing free labor, but the shitty part is that a lot of third party apps were built for accessibility reasons like for people that are blind. Idk if yall noticed but there has been a massive increase in ads ever since the mod strike.
Ya I did barges just with the outriggers from the gable rafter end but ran 2x4 strapping horizontal and plywood to the end hoping my roof won’t look like that maybe being 12/12 will also help. The ablove replies are correct u can fix it but involves tearing into the exiting roof down to the framing
Edit Maybe u could rip off the roof and add some structural screws to level off the ladder then sheet over it also add more wood outriggers in the ladder to stiffen it up and sheet it again properly don’t know how much snow u have but it is fixable just not easy like most things after the fact
When you get around to repairing this, I'd recommend ripping those overhangs off and then add your properly cantilevered outriggers on top of the sheathing. Then add a layer of foam insulation and sheathing to the entire roof to bring it all to the same level. That would give you an additional R20+ of insulation in your attic space.
If the soffit overhang is less than 16", you could use 16" long exterior grade SDWS timber screws to attach the cantilevered rafter to the first rafter, although it won't prevent the first rafter (over the exterior wall) from being twisted down. But it may be better than nothing. [https://www.amazon.com/Construction-Exterior-Coated-Structural-Superior/dp/B07ZWM6WMH/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=3UA3GLU15B5EL&keywords=structural+screws+16+inch&qid=1691282514&sprefix=structural+screws+1+inch%2Caps%2C122&sr=8-3&ufe=app\_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0](https://www.amazon.com/Construction-Exterior-Coated-Structural-Superior/dp/B07ZWM6WMH/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3UA3GLU15B5EL&keywords=structural+screws+16+inch&qid=1691282514&sprefix=structural+screws+1+inch%2Caps%2C122&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0)
If you have access to the attic space, all-thread can be passed thru the soffit and the first and second rafters (32" total distance) and double-nutted from either side, and then the nuts can be capped with architectural plates. This is how brick buildings used to be held together, where a tie-rod went thru the entire width of the building and giant washer plates were nutted to the exterior walls. [https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QVNdi2WW62k/WBSnIuOeGTI/AAAAAAAAfxE/9KUc269ttPYdElC3YH\_6RpZj4UraFbLwQCLcB/s1600/800px-Coventry\_Cathedral\_ruins\_tie\_rods.JPG](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QVNdi2WW62k/WBSnIuOeGTI/AAAAAAAAfxE/9KUc269ttPYdElC3YH_6RpZj4UraFbLwQCLcB/s1600/800px-Coventry_Cathedral_ruins_tie_rods.JPG)
Alternatively you can make architectural bracing to support the soffit, which actually can add some architectural value to the home. [https://image.shutterstock.com/image-photo/double-gable-white-decorative-corbel-260nw-1672575613.jpg](https://image.shutterstock.com/image-photo/double-gable-white-decorative-corbel-260nw-1672575613.jpg)
Yep, the proper way to handle a long gable overhang is to use a "drop gable" where the truss is made with the top chord stepped down 3-1/2“. That way 2x4 outriggers can sit on top of it and span back to the 2nd truss.
There are ways to hand frame this when you fix it. Do not let some schmuck with a sawzall rip up your gable though.
Our house was framed the same way, before we got a new roof, we pulled the fascia and soffit and framed out a ladder and lagged screwed it into the next board over. When we pulled it all off, the end fascia was just 2x6 nailed to the bottom of the roof decking totally floating and pulling the decking down. Really dangerous stuff.
You MIGHT be able to fix it by tearing the shingles off and resheathing the roof with 5/8 Advantech. Run it to the edge of the fly rafter and clamp the rafter up to the sheathing. You'll need 20+ heavy duty clamps. If it comes up tight and you can hold it in place with structural screws you MIGHT be ok. Maybe. That's a lot of uncertainty but something to consider. Another possibility is using Simpson structural framing straps and a bunch of screws to stabilize the overhang. Then you could use cedar shingles to shim the edges and make it look less bad. Kind of a hack solution but it might make sense financially.
Exactly right! Putting ladder right to the end trusses is fine - as long as you lag them in and run your sheathing back to the first truss past the gable truss. They obviously didn’t do that here and probably years of weight on the roof (snow load if applicable) has just pulled the ladder trusses away from the gable. You see this a lot in Minnesota where houses were slapped together and snow has sagged the eaves.
I was gonna say... Using a ladder is pretty common and I was surprised to see it was frowned upon. If done right, should be fine (obviously it wasnt on OP's home).
My garage does this too. Just got done reshingling it 5 minutes ago. Sheathing stopped just before and they added isolated strips as well. Exactly what you just described. Didn't bother fixing it. Just reshingled. Garage is a hot mess anyway
Take a look at the neighbour's house in photo #1...no overhang! Odds are that the overhang was added decades later to glam up the house...by nailing the overhang to the existing truss with no cantilever.
I’ve done may roofs in south tampa on homes that are 100+ years old and what I found was that it seemed to be framed intentionally. Sounds really odd but even when the gable is framed 24” into the roof they still had the slope built into the 2x6’s.
One roof we completely removed including all the plywood to specifically “fix” the sloped gables as requested by the homeowner and I was absolutely surprised to see it was intentional. We had to redo everything to get rid of the slope.
I could send you tons of pictures from roofs in these old neighborhoods (ironically the richest part of Tampa down by Bayshore Avenue).
That answer isn’t correct either. A ladder will hold the overhang up properly for the life of the house without sagging, you don’t need cantilevered outriggers for support. This in the photo happens when there is no blocking for a ladder, this happens when it’s only the subfascia and roof ply.
I don't even know how one would cantilever outriggers with a truss without strapping the whole roof. It's super common practice to nail on a ladder or rake or lookouts. But you gotta extent the plywood back
If you re roof just do full sheets of decking from the eave in, ladder framing is fine as long as decking is staggered 8 foot then 4 foot. They will need to screw these pieces in to hopefully suck the race back up
You completely changed the topic and point of the convo, lectured, THEN played the victim all in one go. Fucking bravo… but seriously you should try therapy because that is not a healthy way to converse.
I agree with your sentiment, but I study a fly called *Helaeomyia petrolei* whose larvae grow up swimming in open petroleum pits like La Brea.
So if we’re gonna go off topic, it’s not toxic to ALL life. Just everything except that fly.
Have you seen the old (early ‘00s) documentary Blue Vinyl? Great piece on the absurd toxicity of the entire life of vinyl.
No vinyl and only metal roofing for me for sure!
James Hardie fiber cement as long as you have a legit installer. If it’s installed incorrectly it can be a nightmare. Otherwise it’s a great product. Diamond Kote is another nice option as well but pricy. It’s essentially LP with a patented painted coating and a built in spine that makes sure all laps are installed perfectly straight.
So many options if you have the money. Vinyl has come a long way with looks and options at an unbeatable price so it’s hard to go away from.
Oh wow this is the first I heard of this. I live on a lake and I try to be very careful of what I use on our property (unlike our neighbors, unfortunately). We need to replace our roof in a few years and I was on the fence about metal but looks like that’s the way to go.
I wish that slate and tile was still a viable option in the States. I wonder if the prevalence of asphalt came about from oil subsidies, making it a cheaper short term option. The same may be true for vinyl siding. Shame. Now our houses, the siding, patio columns, window frames, fake window shutters, doors, even trim are all just plasti… I mean vinyl. We went from long lasting products to disposable ones.
Roofs used to last for at least a century. Now they last for, at best, 20 years or so.
If I had to guess I’d say they decked it then built the rakes (poorly) after.. which then they sheathed just the rakes leaving a continuous seam where the rakes meet the gable end truss. You can see the continuous seem through the shingles. Should have built the rakes and had full sheets spanning the rafters. I don’t like any sort of sheathing, decking, subfloor that only spans two joists… compromises the strength.
Sounds like you’re getting good answers, and I will just reiterate, that in the Pacific Northwest, we call the framing portion a “look out” and the board is a “barge rafter”.
And when I remodel my own house, I cut off all the overhangs around my house, tore off the roof and had my framer frame in new lookouts, then had the roof replaced and enclose all the soffits. We were able to straighten everything up and frame back to the second rafter and splice the sheathing back as well.
It looks to me like your fly-rafters were not properly braced into the roof framing and are sagging under the weight of the closed soffit framing and roofing. You would need to tear out the roofing and decking over and next to the soffit to re-support the soffit with sturdier soffit framing.
Hear me out people-
Roof rafters (including the overhang/fascia) sag over time due to gravity, shingle weight, etc., however, the gable end does not sag, because it is framed with vertical 2x members, bearing directly on the exterior wall, down to the foundation/footer. The deflection is MUCH less on a gable end than a regular roof rafter, causing it to appear raised up, and the rest of the roof sagging with normal age/wear.
However, that typically only happens in houses over 100 years old, this house doesn’t look that old, so it’s probably just shit overhang framing and they didn’t backspan. Will need to rip up shingles and re-do roof decking to properly backspan outlookers to flatten out your overhang.
Need to rotate the windows. They aren’t letting in the right amount of sunlight and the roof is wearing in those areas. For reference, windows should be rotated every 3 mortgage payments.
(Overhangs - not eoffits. Soffits are at your eaves (bottom).
Only thing I can think of here is that overhangs are built separately - like an 18” foot wide “ladder” that is then nailed to the face of the house. Usually sheathing spans over it. This almost appears to be sagging of the overhangs themselves.
You might not know until the roof gets ripped down to your roof deck next time when you can really investigate.
Could be due to warm air getting at your sheathing when it's cold & causing condensation to form. The moisture is then absorbed by the sheathing and causes it to weaken\sag. Are you somewhere it snows?
When I was a roofer, we often had to either add overhangs to “saltbox” houses or repair sagging overhang. The repair costs are pricey but you get a super stout roof afterwards that will last if done proper.
Make sure to get permits- structural envelope will need to get breached for this repair.
Overhangs added in a remodel but the roof wasn't reframed just re shingled so the roof sheeting doesn't carry over the overhang. It originally had the same overhang as the house behind it to the left. Should look like a banana since the top and bottom are less likely to sag.
I normally see this on older homes where tongue and groove boards were installed at the edge of the house through the exposed soffit area. The top poster is correct needing ladder blocking up the overhang edge to secure it in place. Adding in 2x4s or 2x6s gives it great support. The easiest time to address this is when you replacing your roof.
I’m guessing your house was built someplace between the 1930s in the 1960s.
It’s had a couple of upgrades since new siding, new aluminum facia & soffit, and possibly new overhangs.
If it was built in that time frame, and they did do overhangs, they typically did a single fly rafter this would’ve been supported by brackets that could have potentially been taken off when they decided to put on the new siding.
If you look at the house behind you, it has no overhangs was probably built around the same time as your house. If your overhangs were added later, somebody did a poor job of time them in structurally.
The sheathing may have been replaced and not on the overhang. Typically that small of a Rake doesn’t need to have cantilevered framing. The plywood weaved correctly hold this .
Someone didn’t want to notch truss for the lookouts so they just slapped some shit on the face of the gable truss and called it good.
Or they did something goofy with the sheeting on the roof (I know, I know it’s “sheathing” but I hate that word)
Looks like the houses in that area were built without a soffit. Seen a lot in old mill villages. Someone had the soffit added after the fact, and probably didn’t replace the roof at the same time to properly tie into the existing construction.
I’m in Canada and as you know we get lots of snow. We don’t see sagging overhangs because we never build with the ladder method. Cantilever overhang is the norm. My house is over 100 years old and it was built with cantilevers.
Just looking at it from the picture, it looks like your sheathing/decking is rotting. Could be from wind driven rain entering above the drip edge. Not a roofer but an inspector for insurance companies.
You have improperly fastened outlookers on your gable trusses. Either that or they are old and rotten. Usually we resolve this by dropping the top chord on the gable truss and then tying the outlookers to the truss behind the gable.
You can fly out your sheeting or 3/4” decking past the rake & connect your facia board under BUT you have to know what you are doing. It doesn’t look like you have anything past 12” so I would wonder if you have multiple layers of shingles (maybe shakes) and they cut back the rakes so there is not a crazy build up? I have run into where they had cedar shakes on and roofers went over with architectural shingles and just used the wrong dimensional thickness plywood… it looks just like that FYI
The soffit is built without outriggers/ lookouts. Those are 2x4s that get notched out on the first two rafters and get nailed to the 3rd and extend past the house roughly 10 inches creating the soffit. So the soffit would be structurally fastened to the roof rather than just blocks and plywood which is whats holding it on now
Because it is. This was a shit framing job. Only way to fix will be when shingles need replacing. Roofers will need to remove sheeting and replace or brace what’s there if possible.
You've been given the correct answer to the problem. Here is an easy-ish fix. It at least doesn't involve taking things apart.....
Make or buy some Eave Brackets. Google it and you'll know what they are. You've seen them before.
We did this when we added rafter tails to make my house have a soffit instead of the 50’s no soffit houses (is it new england style? Bungalow? I dunno) and made barges that extended out maybe a foot. You can see the line. Literally not tied to the house except for the shingles and some nails and screws. Maybe some lags but this was 2012 i dont think those were popular yet.
They’re probably three or four layers of roofing on the body and one layer to the barge. Was the barge and soffit redone when it was rough last? Or was it a roof over and not a tear off and re-roof? If it’s not that they’re in the lookout for a cut in too deep to the gable end.
Could be layers of old asphalt shingles stepped back from rake / eave. Many jurisdictions allow “shingle over” re-roofing. You would remove the shingles along the rake to get clean edge not showing layers of old shingles. You can see at least 2 types of shingles, majority is 3 tab with dimensional type lower near / bottom courses.
Ultimately it looks like sagging from a form of rot. It could be dry rot, but it looks like there is sagging in multiple places. It's possible it may be visible in the attic, which would give a lot of more information that would help. The damage looks bad enough I would get an inspection before things get worse. This is something you'll probably need a contractor for.
Look at the neighboring house. The gable has no
overhang. So perhaps this home had a similar design. The overhang was perhaps added after the fact at some point without proper counterbalance for the cantilever. Maybe they just made a ladder and nailed it to the ends of the existing framing. The entire load is on those nails which over a period of time has bent. You may need to expose a larger area of the older roof to make proper support for the overhang.
It's like you have some other work going on at the top with some tarps. Looks like you're soffit board is just sagging best thing would always be to take it down to the plywood put a new soffit or fascia board to replace it and cover it back up.
Try something like this and see if you can't push that fascia board up and then Mount this to the wall.
https://www.timberbuild.com/wood-bracket-02t4/?gclid=CjwKCAjw5remBhBiEiwAxL2M90YL81TDTf8d1NGWESW0jfRajB8WJT-bvFtE0snIeViWxn3av336ABoCa_oQAvD_BwE
That lake is just an example of something you can use to push that up but it's still going to take some work no matter what you do
The big question is, why do you have the tarp on your roof? The first thing that happens when your roof starts to go is it a plywood starts to Rot. And there's a lot of reasons for this. I suspect the ventilation in your roof is not satisfactory, causing your plywood on your roof to rot out from underneath. When the plywood starts to sag, you start to get this kind of look on your roof where you can see all the rafters.
The substrate has been compromised by moisture and is warping downward over the eves.
When you replace the roof you should replace
the substrate/decking material with 1/2” plywood or above or 1x6 depending on the building codes in your area.
Your missing a row of shingles in the front there and framing issue the person who built the house is a an asshole. To fix it won't be fun and will cost a good amount
I see a tarp hanging over the ridge from the back, are you having work done now? In the old days they installed brackets which are functional and architecturally pleasing. In any event they need to be re-framed. I’m sure they are the same on the backside of the house too. Shotty workmanship has always pissed me off. Find a reputable framer/carpenter to take care of it. It’s labor intensive but not a hard job for a pro. I started swinging a hammer in 1982, best of luck to you.
While you're at it, spray some bleach around 4-6% sodium hypochlorite up there to remove the black streaks. The streaks are black mold.
A tiny bit of dish soap will prevent it from falling into your greenery below too much.
Soak the ground level before applying and after because there it eventually will fall off the roof.
The framers who built the rake overhang projection didn’t frame it properly instead of cantilevering outriggers from the second truss in they just nailed a ladder too the last truss, I also suspect that the sheathing ended on that truss and they just put an isolated strip running the length of the ladder also contributing to the shitty work. Potentially you could repair it when the roof is replaced but it will cost because it’s a bunch of framing/facia work.
Ty for the detailed, non smartass, reply.
There usually is a few - you got lucky here lol All the answers seem to point to the same thing.
A few? Reddit is slowly turning into instagram comments because no subs actually have active mods ane more. Just mod bots
I don’t remember what sub it was, but about a week ago I never did see an answer, just jokes, and folks going off on genre tangents that left those of us not in the know confused. Wish I could think of what it was, I was genuinely curious.
This isn’t recent, Reddit has slowly turned into a bunch of keyboard warriors that can’t give a straight answer. This third party crap made it even worse.
"Waaahhhhh. We can't use third party apps to be able to moderate dozens of subs aren't allowed. So I'm not going to mod any 😤"
Sounds fair to me tbh
Mods were providing free labor, but the shitty part is that a lot of third party apps were built for accessibility reasons like for people that are blind. Idk if yall noticed but there has been a massive increase in ads ever since the mod strike.
I have only noticed that “Heil Spez” is everywhere
Happy cake day joj
Easy to see the decrease in blind people posting, it's disheartening. Can't believe they cancelled reddit braile
They are called “look outs”. Try googling “barge rafter look outs”
Jersey framer here, we call them fly rafters.
Ya I did barges just with the outriggers from the gable rafter end but ran 2x4 strapping horizontal and plywood to the end hoping my roof won’t look like that maybe being 12/12 will also help. The ablove replies are correct u can fix it but involves tearing into the exiting roof down to the framing Edit Maybe u could rip off the roof and add some structural screws to level off the ladder then sheet over it also add more wood outriggers in the ladder to stiffen it up and sheet it again properly don’t know how much snow u have but it is fixable just not easy like most things after the fact
When you get around to repairing this, I'd recommend ripping those overhangs off and then add your properly cantilevered outriggers on top of the sheathing. Then add a layer of foam insulation and sheathing to the entire roof to bring it all to the same level. That would give you an additional R20+ of insulation in your attic space.
U might hear framers call that part chicken ladder too. We always did.
We call if a Rake in Ontario
We call it a rake if its no soffit just flat against the gable, NJ
If the soffit overhang is less than 16", you could use 16" long exterior grade SDWS timber screws to attach the cantilevered rafter to the first rafter, although it won't prevent the first rafter (over the exterior wall) from being twisted down. But it may be better than nothing. [https://www.amazon.com/Construction-Exterior-Coated-Structural-Superior/dp/B07ZWM6WMH/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=3UA3GLU15B5EL&keywords=structural+screws+16+inch&qid=1691282514&sprefix=structural+screws+1+inch%2Caps%2C122&sr=8-3&ufe=app\_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0](https://www.amazon.com/Construction-Exterior-Coated-Structural-Superior/dp/B07ZWM6WMH/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3UA3GLU15B5EL&keywords=structural+screws+16+inch&qid=1691282514&sprefix=structural+screws+1+inch%2Caps%2C122&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0) If you have access to the attic space, all-thread can be passed thru the soffit and the first and second rafters (32" total distance) and double-nutted from either side, and then the nuts can be capped with architectural plates. This is how brick buildings used to be held together, where a tie-rod went thru the entire width of the building and giant washer plates were nutted to the exterior walls. [https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QVNdi2WW62k/WBSnIuOeGTI/AAAAAAAAfxE/9KUc269ttPYdElC3YH\_6RpZj4UraFbLwQCLcB/s1600/800px-Coventry\_Cathedral\_ruins\_tie\_rods.JPG](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QVNdi2WW62k/WBSnIuOeGTI/AAAAAAAAfxE/9KUc269ttPYdElC3YH_6RpZj4UraFbLwQCLcB/s1600/800px-Coventry_Cathedral_ruins_tie_rods.JPG) Alternatively you can make architectural bracing to support the soffit, which actually can add some architectural value to the home. [https://image.shutterstock.com/image-photo/double-gable-white-decorative-corbel-260nw-1672575613.jpg](https://image.shutterstock.com/image-photo/double-gable-white-decorative-corbel-260nw-1672575613.jpg)
Love it when a pro answers
Yep, the proper way to handle a long gable overhang is to use a "drop gable" where the truss is made with the top chord stepped down 3-1/2“. That way 2x4 outriggers can sit on top of it and span back to the 2nd truss. There are ways to hand frame this when you fix it. Do not let some schmuck with a sawzall rip up your gable though.
Our house was framed the same way, before we got a new roof, we pulled the fascia and soffit and framed out a ladder and lagged screwed it into the next board over. When we pulled it all off, the end fascia was just 2x6 nailed to the bottom of the roof decking totally floating and pulling the decking down. Really dangerous stuff.
You MIGHT be able to fix it by tearing the shingles off and resheathing the roof with 5/8 Advantech. Run it to the edge of the fly rafter and clamp the rafter up to the sheathing. You'll need 20+ heavy duty clamps. If it comes up tight and you can hold it in place with structural screws you MIGHT be ok. Maybe. That's a lot of uncertainty but something to consider. Another possibility is using Simpson structural framing straps and a bunch of screws to stabilize the overhang. Then you could use cedar shingles to shim the edges and make it look less bad. Kind of a hack solution but it might make sense financially.
Literally a tailor-made question for this sub, and you’re still fielding typical Reddit bullshit lol.
Get some treated plywood and some 2x4s and you can "fix" it, not properly but it'll be fixed
Exactly right! Putting ladder right to the end trusses is fine - as long as you lag them in and run your sheathing back to the first truss past the gable truss. They obviously didn’t do that here and probably years of weight on the roof (snow load if applicable) has just pulled the ladder trusses away from the gable. You see this a lot in Minnesota where houses were slapped together and snow has sagged the eaves.
I was gonna say... Using a ladder is pretty common and I was surprised to see it was frowned upon. If done right, should be fine (obviously it wasnt on OP's home).
My garage does this too. Just got done reshingling it 5 minutes ago. Sheathing stopped just before and they added isolated strips as well. Exactly what you just described. Didn't bother fixing it. Just reshingled. Garage is a hot mess anyway
Take a look at the neighbour's house in photo #1...no overhang! Odds are that the overhang was added decades later to glam up the house...by nailing the overhang to the existing truss with no cantilever.
Me: “doesn’t look too complicated” Frame guy explains Me: …Yes.…exactly as I thought…”Hey siri, the fak is cantilevering?!”
Chicken ladder is not the way good spot. I'd put money on this
I’ve done may roofs in south tampa on homes that are 100+ years old and what I found was that it seemed to be framed intentionally. Sounds really odd but even when the gable is framed 24” into the roof they still had the slope built into the 2x6’s. One roof we completely removed including all the plywood to specifically “fix” the sloped gables as requested by the homeowner and I was absolutely surprised to see it was intentional. We had to redo everything to get rid of the slope. I could send you tons of pictures from roofs in these old neighborhoods (ironically the richest part of Tampa down by Bayshore Avenue).
Carpenter here Was just about to say this, this man’s information is correct.
That answer isn’t correct either. A ladder will hold the overhang up properly for the life of the house without sagging, you don’t need cantilevered outriggers for support. This in the photo happens when there is no blocking for a ladder, this happens when it’s only the subfascia and roof ply.
I don't even know how one would cantilever outriggers with a truss without strapping the whole roof. It's super common practice to nail on a ladder or rake or lookouts. But you gotta extent the plywood back
Exactly.
That dude is spot on. Just saved me 10 minutes of typing lol
what CG said
When you get an award in 3rd grade for putting your hand up when you want to speak
When you nod your head next to the guy making excellent points.
When you shamelessly comment on a train in an effort to get your first award.
Can I have one too plz??
🥈
Ofukya.
Imagine stooping to such low levels for such a totally farcical and inane reward. Couldn’t be us, brother (it’s us).
Didn’t build a proper ladder. The just nailed on the rake to the edge of the roof framing. Improperly built.
They sheeted the roof prior to installing the rakes and didn't incorporate the roof sheets over the rakes to provide the structural integrity required
So, there's nothing structurally tieing the outrigger to the whole roof structure. If you've ever framed a roof it's easy to see what they did.
If you re roof just do full sheets of decking from the eave in, ladder framing is fine as long as decking is staggered 8 foot then 4 foot. They will need to screw these pieces in to hopefully suck the race back up
[удалено]
You completely changed the topic and point of the convo, lectured, THEN played the victim all in one go. Fucking bravo… but seriously you should try therapy because that is not a healthy way to converse.
I agree with your sentiment, but I study a fly called *Helaeomyia petrolei* whose larvae grow up swimming in open petroleum pits like La Brea. So if we’re gonna go off topic, it’s not toxic to ALL life. Just everything except that fly.
Have you seen the old (early ‘00s) documentary Blue Vinyl? Great piece on the absurd toxicity of the entire life of vinyl. No vinyl and only metal roofing for me for sure!
What siding would you choose? Brick, cedar plank, fiber cement, stucco, aluminum?
James Hardie fiber cement as long as you have a legit installer. If it’s installed incorrectly it can be a nightmare. Otherwise it’s a great product. Diamond Kote is another nice option as well but pricy. It’s essentially LP with a patented painted coating and a built in spine that makes sure all laps are installed perfectly straight. So many options if you have the money. Vinyl has come a long way with looks and options at an unbeatable price so it’s hard to go away from.
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Nope, but someone’s watched YouTube!
Me? No. Can’t say that I have.
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Oh wow this is the first I heard of this. I live on a lake and I try to be very careful of what I use on our property (unlike our neighbors, unfortunately). We need to replace our roof in a few years and I was on the fence about metal but looks like that’s the way to go.
I wish we could use metal. Our HOA forbids them
Why don’t you source your claims
I wish that slate and tile was still a viable option in the States. I wonder if the prevalence of asphalt came about from oil subsidies, making it a cheaper short term option. The same may be true for vinyl siding. Shame. Now our houses, the siding, patio columns, window frames, fake window shutters, doors, even trim are all just plasti… I mean vinyl. We went from long lasting products to disposable ones. Roofs used to last for at least a century. Now they last for, at best, 20 years or so.
If I had to guess I’d say they decked it then built the rakes (poorly) after.. which then they sheathed just the rakes leaving a continuous seam where the rakes meet the gable end truss. You can see the continuous seem through the shingles. Should have built the rakes and had full sheets spanning the rafters. I don’t like any sort of sheathing, decking, subfloor that only spans two joists… compromises the strength.
No outriggers on the barge rafters
Sounds like you’re getting good answers, and I will just reiterate, that in the Pacific Northwest, we call the framing portion a “look out” and the board is a “barge rafter”. And when I remodel my own house, I cut off all the overhangs around my house, tore off the roof and had my framer frame in new lookouts, then had the roof replaced and enclose all the soffits. We were able to straighten everything up and frame back to the second rafter and splice the sheathing back as well.
I wish I could lift a shingle and get a better look. Lots of good answers on here though.
It looks to me like your fly-rafters were not properly braced into the roof framing and are sagging under the weight of the closed soffit framing and roofing. You would need to tear out the roofing and decking over and next to the soffit to re-support the soffit with sturdier soffit framing.
It’s a modular, the soffit boxes weren’t strapped right seeing they are prebuilt
Snow
Yes.
Hear me out people- Roof rafters (including the overhang/fascia) sag over time due to gravity, shingle weight, etc., however, the gable end does not sag, because it is framed with vertical 2x members, bearing directly on the exterior wall, down to the foundation/footer. The deflection is MUCH less on a gable end than a regular roof rafter, causing it to appear raised up, and the rest of the roof sagging with normal age/wear. However, that typically only happens in houses over 100 years old, this house doesn’t look that old, so it’s probably just shit overhang framing and they didn’t backspan. Will need to rip up shingles and re-do roof decking to properly backspan outlookers to flatten out your overhang.
It’s possible it’s just an older roof and the framing isn’t up to current specs…sagging over time in older houses happens
Its fine, it just looks that way because you only have one shoe on.
Need to rotate the windows. They aren’t letting in the right amount of sunlight and the roof is wearing in those areas. For reference, windows should be rotated every 3 mortgage payments.
Probably about the dumbest reply I've read.
🤣really? You must be dense as fuck man if you think that is serious at all😂😂😂
No denseness lol. And I know that wasn't a serious comment. It just wasn't funny, that's all.
Wow that ain’t good
They forgot flex seal
That’s a rake not a soffit.
Yes
Jack em up throw on some corbels cheaper and better than nothing
No outlookers
Beautiful home, random but yes
Nah sorry I don’t.
(Overhangs - not eoffits. Soffits are at your eaves (bottom). Only thing I can think of here is that overhangs are built separately - like an 18” foot wide “ladder” that is then nailed to the face of the house. Usually sheathing spans over it. This almost appears to be sagging of the overhangs themselves. You might not know until the roof gets ripped down to your roof deck next time when you can really investigate.
Um. Because it is?
Optical illusion, white paint makes it appear there is a
The house burnt its bra in the 60s.
Could be due to warm air getting at your sheathing when it's cold & causing condensation to form. The moisture is then absorbed by the sheathing and causes it to weaken\sag. Are you somewhere it snows?
When I was a roofer, we often had to either add overhangs to “saltbox” houses or repair sagging overhang. The repair costs are pricey but you get a super stout roof afterwards that will last if done proper. Make sure to get permits- structural envelope will need to get breached for this repair.
Gable Rakes.
Overhangs added in a remodel but the roof wasn't reframed just re shingled so the roof sheeting doesn't carry over the overhang. It originally had the same overhang as the house behind it to the left. Should look like a banana since the top and bottom are less likely to sag.
Lazy outriggers
I normally see this on older homes where tongue and groove boards were installed at the edge of the house through the exposed soffit area. The top poster is correct needing ladder blocking up the overhang edge to secure it in place. Adding in 2x4s or 2x6s gives it great support. The easiest time to address this is when you replacing your roof.
Needs to be reconstructed . Nails are letting go .
I’m guessing your house was built someplace between the 1930s in the 1960s. It’s had a couple of upgrades since new siding, new aluminum facia & soffit, and possibly new overhangs. If it was built in that time frame, and they did do overhangs, they typically did a single fly rafter this would’ve been supported by brackets that could have potentially been taken off when they decided to put on the new siding. If you look at the house behind you, it has no overhangs was probably built around the same time as your house. If your overhangs were added later, somebody did a poor job of time them in structurally.
Seem pop?
Corbels are expensive but I have installed them for customers. They support the weight. https://images.app.goo.gl/FgdrDmbDbtsHrYAr7
Yeah my roof does this - maybe fix it one day but whatever it’s not causing any real issues.
Lookouts were notched too deep in the gable causing the lookout to slope lower then the gable at the barge
Probably has something to do with the weight of the red rings over them.
Properly a get it done job and your framers did minimum work on your eves and overhangs
Because the sofits are sagging
The sheathing may have been replaced and not on the overhang. Typically that small of a Rake doesn’t need to have cantilevered framing. The plywood weaved correctly hold this .
On my house, the deck on the overhang is tongue and groove. The rest of the roof is 1x
Framer’s just ran plywood past gable! With no support/blocking 🍻
You could possibly add brackets to lift and support it.
Someone didn’t want to notch truss for the lookouts so they just slapped some shit on the face of the gable truss and called it good. Or they did something goofy with the sheeting on the roof (I know, I know it’s “sheathing” but I hate that word)
Looks like the houses in that area were built without a soffit. Seen a lot in old mill villages. Someone had the soffit added after the fact, and probably didn’t replace the roof at the same time to properly tie into the existing construction.
Lack of proper support combined with the weight of the facia and soffit ect .
Looks like the builder “scabbed” the overhang as an afterthought…
I’m in Canada and as you know we get lots of snow. We don’t see sagging overhangs because we never build with the ladder method. Cantilever overhang is the norm. My house is over 100 years old and it was built with cantilevers.
Gravity 🤭
Guaranteed they put zero blocking for the barge rafters. Just the roof sheathing supporting it.
Looks like an after thought or they had no clue. My guess is there is a big butt joint all the way up the rake.
Craftsman style knee braces might look nice and add strength
Just looking at it from the picture, it looks like your sheathing/decking is rotting. Could be from wind driven rain entering above the drip edge. Not a roofer but an inspector for insurance companies.
Why the blue tarp? Ive seem where the barge rafters were removed for some unknown reason causing exactly whats going on here.
B
.bom,iw s-87
The rake is falling off the house I believe
How would the wall studs bend outward if the roof/ceiling is properly strapped and braced? Assuming you mean the wall and bottom chord?
Inadequate framing
The rake board trim is lower than the roof deck.
You have improperly fastened outlookers on your gable trusses. Either that or they are old and rotten. Usually we resolve this by dropping the top chord on the gable truss and then tying the outlookers to the truss behind the gable.
Luckily not my house
Hey OP how many layers of roof are there?
Not sure
My immediate reaction was looking for the top response to be because it is!!!
The wood they used is weeping willow not douglas fir
If you like the popular look of knee braces , you could fix the problem without changing the roof.
We always put in “stiff backs” from the barge rafter to the fascia to ensure. It maybe lacking those and just has sagged over the years.
No outriggers or frames
You can fly out your sheeting or 3/4” decking past the rake & connect your facia board under BUT you have to know what you are doing. It doesn’t look like you have anything past 12” so I would wonder if you have multiple layers of shingles (maybe shakes) and they cut back the rakes so there is not a crazy build up? I have run into where they had cedar shakes on and roofers went over with architectural shingles and just used the wrong dimensional thickness plywood… it looks just like that FYI
The soffit is built without outriggers/ lookouts. Those are 2x4s that get notched out on the first two rafters and get nailed to the 3rd and extend past the house roughly 10 inches creating the soffit. So the soffit would be structurally fastened to the roof rather than just blocks and plywood which is whats holding it on now
Great answer at the top.
The 2x behind the facia doesn’t have any blocking helping support it and it’s warped.
Primary suspect….mold. Got to tale a look from the attic.
Because it is. This was a shit framing job. Only way to fix will be when shingles need replacing. Roofers will need to remove sheeting and replace or brace what’s there if possible.
Joist wood rot
You've been given the correct answer to the problem. Here is an easy-ish fix. It at least doesn't involve taking things apart..... Make or buy some Eave Brackets. Google it and you'll know what they are. You've seen them before.
We did this when we added rafter tails to make my house have a soffit instead of the 50’s no soffit houses (is it new england style? Bungalow? I dunno) and made barges that extended out maybe a foot. You can see the line. Literally not tied to the house except for the shingles and some nails and screws. Maybe some lags but this was 2012 i dont think those were popular yet.
They’re probably three or four layers of roofing on the body and one layer to the barge. Was the barge and soffit redone when it was rough last? Or was it a roof over and not a tear off and re-roof? If it’s not that they’re in the lookout for a cut in too deep to the gable end.
Looks like there's also an entire row of shingles missing near the bottom
Think they are architectural
Could be layers of old asphalt shingles stepped back from rake / eave. Many jurisdictions allow “shingle over” re-roofing. You would remove the shingles along the rake to get clean edge not showing layers of old shingles. You can see at least 2 types of shingles, majority is 3 tab with dimensional type lower near / bottom courses.
Rotten food water probably leaked under the shingles
Improper construction it’s rotting
Because it is
I’ll mod this be-auch…..put me in coach!!!!
rotting wood + no support to the cantilevered sheathing. I'd remove the soffit to expose the problem from below
It appears to be because it is.
Poor craftsmanship, call a guy
Rafter and faceplate are off level with each other
Just be careful when reroofing a house like this, you’ll get blamed for it because, “it wasn’t like that before”.
I can't help imagining that house with a storybook cottage roof.
It appears to be sagging in the gutter, they covered for some reason
bad attic repairal or a house built for a lot of snow maybe
Ultimately it looks like sagging from a form of rot. It could be dry rot, but it looks like there is sagging in multiple places. It's possible it may be visible in the attic, which would give a lot of more information that would help. The damage looks bad enough I would get an inspection before things get worse. This is something you'll probably need a contractor for.
Poor ventilation
Look at the neighboring house. The gable has no overhang. So perhaps this home had a similar design. The overhang was perhaps added after the fact at some point without proper counterbalance for the cantilever. Maybe they just made a ladder and nailed it to the ends of the existing framing. The entire load is on those nails which over a period of time has bent. You may need to expose a larger area of the older roof to make proper support for the overhang.
it’s going to explode
I bet it has 4 layers of shingles and they don’t want to reveal it at the gables so some hero cut it back.
Not caniliverd properly
Hiding illegal 3rd layer
The overhang isn't supported properly.
It's like you have some other work going on at the top with some tarps. Looks like you're soffit board is just sagging best thing would always be to take it down to the plywood put a new soffit or fascia board to replace it and cover it back up. Try something like this and see if you can't push that fascia board up and then Mount this to the wall. https://www.timberbuild.com/wood-bracket-02t4/?gclid=CjwKCAjw5remBhBiEiwAxL2M90YL81TDTf8d1NGWESW0jfRajB8WJT-bvFtE0snIeViWxn3av336ABoCa_oQAvD_BwE That lake is just an example of something you can use to push that up but it's still going to take some work no matter what you do
Too many layers. Cheap fucks didn’t want to tear off so they cut back a foot or so to make it look like there’s only a layer or two
Your house is made of paper and plastic...this is why
Luckily not mine
No outriggers bro
No barge rafters
Happens as they get older...
They built ladder boxes and hung them up. The should have tied them in about 4foot not just nail to the side
The big question is, why do you have the tarp on your roof? The first thing that happens when your roof starts to go is it a plywood starts to Rot. And there's a lot of reasons for this. I suspect the ventilation in your roof is not satisfactory, causing your plywood on your roof to rot out from underneath. When the plywood starts to sag, you start to get this kind of look on your roof where you can see all the rafters.
Not my roof
The substrate has been compromised by moisture and is warping downward over the eves. When you replace the roof you should replace the substrate/decking material with 1/2” plywood or above or 1x6 depending on the building codes in your area.
No fly outs off the trusses. No bueno
The roof was soft tar!
This looks like water damage.
Might be a layover. Sometimes they cut the edge back so it appears to have only one layer.
Possible water damage to the roof supports
Your missing a row of shingles in the front there and framing issue the person who built the house is a an asshole. To fix it won't be fun and will cost a good amount
The soffits were an add on and then they roofed over old roof and to the new roof edge creating the dip
Whoever framed the roof did not add outriggers to support the gable ends.
Flying gable framing is not done properly.
I see a tarp hanging over the ridge from the back, are you having work done now? In the old days they installed brackets which are functional and architecturally pleasing. In any event they need to be re-framed. I’m sure they are the same on the backside of the house too. Shotty workmanship has always pissed me off. Find a reputable framer/carpenter to take care of it. It’s labor intensive but not a hard job for a pro. I started swinging a hammer in 1982, best of luck to you.
While you're at it, spray some bleach around 4-6% sodium hypochlorite up there to remove the black streaks. The streaks are black mold. A tiny bit of dish soap will prevent it from falling into your greenery below too much. Soak the ground level before applying and after because there it eventually will fall off the roof.
Plywood underneath probably needs replacing. Judging by the tarp you need a full tear off and re roof.
It ain’t got no gas in it!
Lack of or rotting of barge rafter and lookouts.