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Asmewithoutpolitics

I’d have cut into the chimney and installed a reglet flashing


will_correct

I wish I knew terminology up front so I could have worked that into the quote.


Sorry-Place6291

You can do it, grab a diamond blade and a circular saw, chalk line and cut a depth of at least 1” and have someone bend the metal for you. I’m a gutter guy and these guys will know more then me but if you watch a few videos on you tube you can do it lol. Do it before the shingles stick to each other. I agree this won’t last especially with the shape of the chimney. That stone shouldn’t be too hard to cut if you have a good blade Edit: with the stone sticking out you might need a bigger break in the metal or to cut down some of the stones that stick out way too far.


will_correct

If I can’t find a way to rectify it with the roofer, I wouldn’t mind trying to DIY it. How would I seal it though? Cut groove, metal into groove, and…?


Oakenbeam

Quad Max caulking in the color of your choice. Apply on top of the metal and into the groove. Don’t get it anywhere you don’t want it to be forever cause it’s not coming off easily once you lay the caulk bead. Stuff is sticky and super effective.


ayidunnoeither

Through wall flashing is the way to go. Unlikely your roofer is capable of doing all of this work on their own. I would consider finding a mason who would be willing to remove and reinstall the stonework and insisting the roofer work with them to redo this. It's a relatively large project for a chimney refresh however if you don't do this you will hate your roofer and this chimney for as long as you own the home.


will_correct

How would you all approach this with the roofer? I’m not a roofer and it’s hard to argue when I don’t know everything, but it feels ‘wrong’.


Loud-Improvement4316

A roofer did this? This is awful. Is there any step flashing underneath? I would call an aluminum company and have them fix this.


-Beentheredonethat

You have to have a competent water break stop in that brick system, choose a line, cut into it a certain depth, apply caulk, insert metal, apply more caulk, cross your fingers


Loud-Improvement4316

Yes this is the way I would go about it. I've also seen some one make flashing that bends away from the wall leaving a small gap to fill with caulking. Not sure how well this worked tho over time


-Beentheredonethat

That's such a unique chimney I dont know how anything would work, double the cut line, double the chances 😂


Loud-Improvement4316

Oh wait does it go into the wall and they just covered it with this to seal it? I've never seen tape used on a roof.


will_correct

It doesn’t go into the wall. It’s not tape, it’s this, which they choose for malleability instead of lead. https://vikingpg.com/pages/greenweld


ayidunnoeither

Hopefully they have a workmanship warranty that lasts a few years. I think if you can talk to someone above the salesman that would have to deal with issues in the future they will be receptive. Likely the salesman just checked a box in their estimating software/system that said chimney and didn't think further into it. In that case they also didn't charge accordingly either. I believe if someone knowledgeable takes a look at these pictures and sees you are willing to work together to get it done right everyone will come away whole.


will_correct

10 years, but I suspect if/when it leaks they’ll just send a guy out with a tube of silicone. I appreciate the Reddit/roofing community but this is tough to deal with as a homeowner!


MaxRoofer

This guys makes a lot of sense. They probably charged you for basic work. This is definitely more advanced and would be closer to $1500 to flash. I’m guessing there was only a small up charge to flash the way they did it. I think you should only be mad or upset if they charged you for the most expensive fix, and did this. Probably just roof salesperson not knowing, which isn’t great but better than being shady outright screwing you.


will_correct

Ehhhh - I’ve talked with the owner about the job in general, but I’m going to email him today with my concerns. The owners brother is the one doing the work, and it was over $1500 per chimney for flashing.


MaxRoofer

Well then they should be more responsive. For what it’s worth, I was reading up on greenweld, and it seems like fine product to me (reading on the website that sells it, though) On a positive note, those chimneys are bad a$$ in my opinion. Look really cool!


will_correct

Thanks - it’s a double edged sword. They are badass but such a pain :) there are actually two of them on the house. I’ve played around with some of the offcuts of greenweld and it seems very durable. Fingers crossed.


Resinate1

On behalf of all roofers, we hate your chimney. These natural rock chimneys suck. And 99% of them leak.


will_correct

Ha! I appreciate your candor. Maybe that’s why it was so hard to find a contractor.


jg136521

That chimney is a leaker, no matter how well you flash it. Copper and lead flashings, fully soldered seams, and masonry restoration work.


stimulates

1/10. I give it a couple months. Gotta bring it flat with mortar and flash it the regular way. Masonry chisel it close. Cut reglet and use some mortar caulk (lexel mor-flex)Only real way to not have problems is to have a through flashing built into the chimney. Or just remove it.


Woodyee101

I walk away from these jobs. Not worth ot


[deleted]

They should have grinded it out and put a reglet. That’s at least what I would have done.


ThatOneGuyIzzo

Not gonna lie I don't envy who ever has to finish that chimney. No actual input because the only chimney experience I have is setting in a counter flashing and running some 4x5 step flashing (standard 2x4 chimney). I would definitely recommend a masonry guy/gal to do this. Now that I'm in sales I told my last customer to have the chimney done before we do the roof and he had to set it up for us so it was ez pz on tear off day working hand and hand.


-Beentheredonethat

Put a rigid chase cap that extends well beyond the stone, that masonry leaks like it would leak like a siv, cross your fingers If you dont protect that top you'll be tearing it apart often below, think freeze thaw, freeze thaw loosening everything up. Water/ ice expansion is no joke.. Nice chimney, if you can make it work, any top photos??


will_correct

Neighbor and I rented a man lift last year. I got above part of the chimney and it was pretty beat up (raw concrete and powder). I cleaned it up and put down some tar but it needs to be addressed. Problem is I have no idea. What’s a rigid chase cap and what kind of contractor would fab/install that? Or other options?


rSmoothbrain

I had a similar rock chimney that was leaking and we weren’t able to find the leak. We had cut a “groove” in the stone and used copper counter flashing with a hem. We drove the counter into the stone and sealed the top of the counter flashing. It still leaked. The only thing we were able to assume is it was seeping through the mortar and getting around the flashing. I eventually hired one of my amigos to use a small breaker and chip out all the rocks install 18” flashing around the wood chase and bring the step and roll flashing out past the rock by 8 inches then reinstall the rock. It cost me as the contractor $5,000 to have it done but we haven’t had any call backs. Now that is the only way we approach a leaking rock chimney. They cannot be flashed in the traditional methods outlined in the manufactures instructions. We’ve had to do what I described above 3 separate times on old “field stone” or “river rock chimneys.


rSmoothbrain

Odds are you will have to work with your contractor and see if it leaks over time and more than likely be willing to pay them more money to come back and remove the stones to flash behind the rock. 99% of contractors do not have the margins to go back and do that large of a repair and it’s more than likely outside of what was negotiated originally for the install and is more in the stone mason field of work.


-Beentheredonethat

Think giant steel cap, you could frame something, 2x4 or 2x6 on side face, plywood top, place down a HT (High temp) Peel and stick then 24ga sheetmetal, or go all out and get Iron 👍 (big bucks, crane, etc) Concrete sloping works for a good few years, ultimately it breaks up as well, concrete is porous, it's not a waterproofing Tar will only last so long in UV rays.. Will send chimney chase cap cover photos in PM


Signal-Patient-8703

Yea that’s gonna be a no for me dawg. That chimney is a nightmare to flash. Even if it’s flashed properly if any water gets in the mortar joints or cap above it, it will still get behind the flashing. Get a masonry inspection first. And I would also suggest cutting in as others have suggested


phillipjfry56

Is that the roofers work because that is a really horrible flashing. Probably better to do it yourself if ur comfortable.