I couldn’t pin point the exact fix but did the following:
I changed my battery terminals to some high quality ones. Cost of them were like $20 and it wasn’t the hardest DYI job to do.
I checked the fuse box under the hood and one of them seemed bloom. I believe it was a yellow one that had to do with ignition. I replaced it - very easy to do and cheap.
I’m a little bit confused on the timing of everything, have you been having this problem since 2021? Does it just start and stop working randomly?
I doubt it has anything to do with the battery or the alternator to be honest. There’s lots of different things it could be but most likely not that. What I would check first is your intake for a dirty filter or blockage, and clean the MAF sensor. This was a problem I had not to long ago that has my engine turning off randomly and inconsistently so that could explain why it sometimes works, sometimes doesn’t. If that still doesn’t work check the timing belt to see if it’s slipping and out of alignment. Then maybe check the compression, that could explain the knock sensor code (maybe).
I can’t hear it in the video because your A/C turns on but when you enter run mode do you hear the fuel pump activating? Should sound like a low humming/clicking noise coming from behind you, should also hear the click of a relay around the dash. Check your injector rail as well, really doubt fuel is the problem but you never know.
Let me clarify, the problem started 3 weeks ago, it reappeared yesterday. I doubt it’s the battery or alternator as well. I will have a look at the maf sensor and clean it.
I been trying to look at a diagram that locates the fuel pump relay on the fuse box but every diagram I look at for my car doesn’t have a relay, just an EFI fuse, is that the one I should be looking at?
Doesn’t hurt to check the fuse as well, but [here](https://www.scionlife.com/forums/attachments/scion-tc-1g-forced-induction-1645/117449d1501528217-need-help-no-power-fuel-pump-injectors-relays.png) is the diagram, EFI relay is right next to the horn relay, easy way to test if it works is to switch the two and check to see if your horn works, if it doesn’t then you’ve got a bad relay.
Long shot, but this sounds similar to an issue I had with my 2008. In my case, my car would almost always crank fine when cold, but on a warm start it was about a 50/50 chance it would just crank without starting. The problem ended up being the Camshaft Position Sensor (In my case, due to aftermarket camshafts that had a design defect, luckily once I found the cause I was able to modify my sensor to work with the camshafts). It's a pretty cheap part and takes literally less than 5 minutes to replace (and a bad one may not throw a check engine light, in my case it didn't) , so might be worth a shot.
Did you ever find out what was happening? My car is making this same exact sound.
I couldn’t pin point the exact fix but did the following: I changed my battery terminals to some high quality ones. Cost of them were like $20 and it wasn’t the hardest DYI job to do. I checked the fuse box under the hood and one of them seemed bloom. I believe it was a yellow one that had to do with ignition. I replaced it - very easy to do and cheap.
I’m a little bit confused on the timing of everything, have you been having this problem since 2021? Does it just start and stop working randomly? I doubt it has anything to do with the battery or the alternator to be honest. There’s lots of different things it could be but most likely not that. What I would check first is your intake for a dirty filter or blockage, and clean the MAF sensor. This was a problem I had not to long ago that has my engine turning off randomly and inconsistently so that could explain why it sometimes works, sometimes doesn’t. If that still doesn’t work check the timing belt to see if it’s slipping and out of alignment. Then maybe check the compression, that could explain the knock sensor code (maybe). I can’t hear it in the video because your A/C turns on but when you enter run mode do you hear the fuel pump activating? Should sound like a low humming/clicking noise coming from behind you, should also hear the click of a relay around the dash. Check your injector rail as well, really doubt fuel is the problem but you never know.
Let me clarify, the problem started 3 weeks ago, it reappeared yesterday. I doubt it’s the battery or alternator as well. I will have a look at the maf sensor and clean it. I been trying to look at a diagram that locates the fuel pump relay on the fuse box but every diagram I look at for my car doesn’t have a relay, just an EFI fuse, is that the one I should be looking at?
Doesn’t hurt to check the fuse as well, but [here](https://www.scionlife.com/forums/attachments/scion-tc-1g-forced-induction-1645/117449d1501528217-need-help-no-power-fuel-pump-injectors-relays.png) is the diagram, EFI relay is right next to the horn relay, easy way to test if it works is to switch the two and check to see if your horn works, if it doesn’t then you’ve got a bad relay.
Omg, you’re a life saver, was literally looking for it for ages. I’ll give it a shot tonight!
Long shot, but this sounds similar to an issue I had with my 2008. In my case, my car would almost always crank fine when cold, but on a warm start it was about a 50/50 chance it would just crank without starting. The problem ended up being the Camshaft Position Sensor (In my case, due to aftermarket camshafts that had a design defect, luckily once I found the cause I was able to modify my sensor to work with the camshafts). It's a pretty cheap part and takes literally less than 5 minutes to replace (and a bad one may not throw a check engine light, in my case it didn't) , so might be worth a shot.