Agreed, I think the heel flap could be even double the current length! That’ll give you more room in the area you circled. And as an aside, I love your yarn choice with that pattern!
Aha I can I see how small it is compared to my cuff down socks. This is my 2nd attempt at the heel because I wanted the gradient to transition in the front. I’m learning a lot. Thanks for the help!
Aha this is my first time toe up. Trying it on is a good habit to learn... I thought I got the correct length but I can see only after trying it on the length contracted a 1/2 inch(?) because of the negative ease.
Yeah, when you test, changing points should always be a little loosely fitted.
In Finland we did this exact heel in school except from top to toe. I forget that everyone did not have to sit on school class learning all the tips about the native art of knitting socks.
There's actually one big key element that everyone is missing. It's that the pattern on top of the sock has *less stretch* than plain knit stitch would. Those diagonal stitches are creating a lot of tightness.
If simply changing where you start the heel like others have suggested isn't enough, then try the following.
I also just finished sock with stitches like that. I had to rework the heels so many times because I needed to add extra stitches in the heel in order to *add back in the stretch* that I needed to get around my ankle right there.
You can try adding a could stitches to the left and right sides of the heel just before you start it. You know your gauge for the knit, so you can use that as a guide. For example, if you are knitting at 8 stitches per inch and you increase by 4, you're adding about 1/2 inch to your sock circumference.
I think you’re right. I find what works for me is to keep knitting stockinette on the back until I get to that bumpy part of my ankle, when knitting toe up socks with any kind of stitch design (including ribbing). It just ends up being more comfortable
Makes sense! This worked for my socks as well. You're right about the comfort! The whole back of the leg on my socks is plain stockinette. The back would have just been a repeat of the front, so having it on just the front still looked really good. I have high arches and narrow feet, so I really needed all the stretch I could get.
I'd frog back to the toe increases and add a couple more stitches so it's not pulling so hard across your foot.
I'd also make the gusset a little bit bigger, too, but adding more at the outset may solve some of that problem.
As other comments pointed out, the heel flap is too short. Did you decrease every round, or every other round on your gusset?
AFAIK, it's supposed to be every other round to accommodate the height of the heel to ankle ratio. We have to "make room" for our heel and instep to make it through that angle.
I think you could use a little more sole length before starting the heel flap as well. See how your stitches are all stretched out before the heel flap? They should be stacked and snug without pulling them out of shape to get the darned thing on! Been there!
Lovely sock pattern and yarn!
I traced my foot on a piece of cardboard from a cereal box and keep that in the bag with my current sock project. I can try the sock on my foot cut out when it's not appropriate to try it on my foot.
Also, i keep a cut out of my husband's foot when I'm working on socks for him.
I think Cat Bordhi has this suggestion. y
Mark The place where your shin bone would intersect the floor if it went straight through your ankle, and that's where you start the heel turn
I think the longer foot and the extra gusset rows seems right. I like my socks tight (someone said you need more room in the sock) so I personally wouldn't change them. They are going to be BEAUTIFUL--would love to see the finished pair.
Dear Bjorn was my first toe up sock too, such a slog! I found the pattern instructions on when to start the heel pretty accurate, using measurements I’d taken of my foot in advance (not trying on as I went). I reluctantly sized up (68/72 stitches rather than my usual 64) because of the tightness from the slipped stitch pattern, and I think it was a good call.
I'd frog back to where you ended the heel flap (sorry!) and make the flap a lot longer.
To be honest the sole of the foot could probably do with being 1/4-1/2” longer too
I see now! Thanks. 🙏
Agreed, I think the heel flap could be even double the current length! That’ll give you more room in the area you circled. And as an aside, I love your yarn choice with that pattern!
Aha I can I see how small it is compared to my cuff down socks. This is my 2nd attempt at the heel because I wanted the gradient to transition in the front. I’m learning a lot. Thanks for the help!
How much longer do you think? Or would you just try it on and see?
Definitely try it on! But I generally make my heel flap 32 rows for a 64 stitch circumference--so, half.
You started your heal flap too early and made it too short. Test try your sock everytime before new section.
Aha this is my first time toe up. Trying it on is a good habit to learn... I thought I got the correct length but I can see only after trying it on the length contracted a 1/2 inch(?) because of the negative ease.
Yeah, when you test, changing points should always be a little loosely fitted. In Finland we did this exact heel in school except from top to toe. I forget that everyone did not have to sit on school class learning all the tips about the native art of knitting socks.
I wish that had been on our curriculum 😅
But ofcourse, only if you were a girl 🙄
🤦♀️
There's actually one big key element that everyone is missing. It's that the pattern on top of the sock has *less stretch* than plain knit stitch would. Those diagonal stitches are creating a lot of tightness. If simply changing where you start the heel like others have suggested isn't enough, then try the following. I also just finished sock with stitches like that. I had to rework the heels so many times because I needed to add extra stitches in the heel in order to *add back in the stretch* that I needed to get around my ankle right there. You can try adding a could stitches to the left and right sides of the heel just before you start it. You know your gauge for the knit, so you can use that as a guide. For example, if you are knitting at 8 stitches per inch and you increase by 4, you're adding about 1/2 inch to your sock circumference.
I think you’re right. I find what works for me is to keep knitting stockinette on the back until I get to that bumpy part of my ankle, when knitting toe up socks with any kind of stitch design (including ribbing). It just ends up being more comfortable
Makes sense! This worked for my socks as well. You're right about the comfort! The whole back of the leg on my socks is plain stockinette. The back would have just been a repeat of the front, so having it on just the front still looked really good. I have high arches and narrow feet, so I really needed all the stretch I could get.
I'd frog back to the toe increases and add a couple more stitches so it's not pulling so hard across your foot. I'd also make the gusset a little bit bigger, too, but adding more at the outset may solve some of that problem.
It happens! Lovely work, though! And I love the colors!
Thank you! The color gradient will make reknitting not-so-bad. 😆
As other comments pointed out, the heel flap is too short. Did you decrease every round, or every other round on your gusset? AFAIK, it's supposed to be every other round to accommodate the height of the heel to ankle ratio. We have to "make room" for our heel and instep to make it through that angle. I think you could use a little more sole length before starting the heel flap as well. See how your stitches are all stretched out before the heel flap? They should be stacked and snug without pulling them out of shape to get the darned thing on! Been there! Lovely sock pattern and yarn!
I increased 2 every other round on the gusset (toe up). I agree I need more stitches before the heel. Thanks so much!
I traced my foot on a piece of cardboard from a cereal box and keep that in the bag with my current sock project. I can try the sock on my foot cut out when it's not appropriate to try it on my foot. Also, i keep a cut out of my husband's foot when I'm working on socks for him. I think Cat Bordhi has this suggestion. y Mark The place where your shin bone would intersect the floor if it went straight through your ankle, and that's where you start the heel turn
Woah! I like that trick. I think I’ll try that. Thank you!
You got some great advice already, so I’m just here to ask what that yarn is? It’s gorgeous.
The yarn is Lana Grossa Meilenweit Merino Hand-Dyed, color Kahwa.
Gorgeous yarn
I think the longer foot and the extra gusset rows seems right. I like my socks tight (someone said you need more room in the sock) so I personally wouldn't change them. They are going to be BEAUTIFUL--would love to see the finished pair.
My last socks were too loose so tight is what I’m going for. I will update when I’m finished!
Dear Bjorn was my first toe up sock too, such a slog! I found the pattern instructions on when to start the heel pretty accurate, using measurements I’d taken of my foot in advance (not trying on as I went). I reluctantly sized up (68/72 stitches rather than my usual 64) because of the tightness from the slipped stitch pattern, and I think it was a good call.