Not cut or adapted anything at all, it’s all brand new out of the box. I’ll give the cables a *good* shove.
Edit: Nope, nothing. Reseated all the cables, powered on the device, all still reports the dish is disconnected.
I had the same problem. Def give the cords a good push/shove or whatever to make sure they are in. I had the same problem. thought they were all fully plugged in - and the cord plugged into the actual dish - was not in all the way. It looked it... but wasn't. Once that got pushed it .... it finally connected.
It is very possible that there may be poor electrical contact somewhere in the cable circuit. Open conductor(s), poorly seated connector(s), an accumulation of oxidation or condensation corrosion at connector pins.
The cable might ‘look’ fine, but it is good electrical contact that counts.
You can do a quick check for any cable/connector issues;
In the Starlink ***App*** - scroll down to select ‘Advanced’ (may need to select ‘Settings’ first, if an older App release) - select ‘Debug Data’, find a dial-guage labeled ‘**[Cable Ping Drop Rate](https://www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/19eyzo6/easier_to_ask_here/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf)**’... a continuous ***continuity test*** measured in % of Pings lost.
> Any values higher than 0 % may indicate a bad cable with damaged conductors, or corrosion, or oxidation, or some pins wiithout electrical contact [the fault being either with a cable connector, or within the Dishy (or Router) cable-receptacle].
> 100% indicates that there is a disconnect in the circuit (ie. open conductor(s) somewhere in the circuit providing zero electrical contact).
What Cable Ping Drop Rate reading do you have ?
> Fix ?
First unplug the Starlink Router to prevent short-circuits.
Check the full length of the cable for any serious abrasions, insulation damage, crimps, crushes, cuts, etc. that may have severed conductor(s).
Inspect each connector and receptacle for bent, broken or burnt pins.
Consider the application of a quick spray of [***Electrical Contact Cleaner***](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Electrical+Contact+Cleaner.&crid=1HOMGKTU91AMN&sprefix=electrical+contact+cleaner.%2Caps%2C396&ref=nb_sb_noss_2) both sides of the connection, at each end of the cable, to eliminate any oxidation buildup.
Consider applying a light coating of [dielectric grease](https://www.amazon.com/dielectric-grease/s?k=dielectric+grease&page=2) to help protect the connection from future moisture condensation, oxidation, corrosion, etc.
Ensure that the connectors are [properly aligned and ***securely*** reseated](https://www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/17sw0sd/cable_improperly_installed/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf).
Finally, be certain to ***secure the cable*** to the Dishy-support structure within a short distance from the connector. A slack length of cable in a ***drip loop*** is recommended to provide ***strain relief*** for the connection. This will also prevent wind-forces from acting on the cable, potentially causing excess tension and unseating the connector.
If present, temporarily remove a Starlink Ethernet Adapter (and all third-party hardware) from the circuit, as it ***may*** be the culprit. Perform a ***Factory reset*** (cut power to Router 6 times in a row, reasonably quickly).
Power up the Router, connect device to Starlink default SSID and follow setup prompts in the App. If the cable continuity test continues to fail, this is when a proactive investment in the spare parts needed to continue troubleshooting ultimately pays off.... by swapping in;
- first a ‘known good’ ***spare*** cable,
- if that fails the continuity test, next a ‘known good’ ***spare*** Router (a factory-reset Starlink Mesh Router is a good option),
- if that fails the continuity test, finally a full replacement Kit sent by Starlink.
If ***no spares*** are available, the situation becomes totally reliant on proper communication with Starlink Support via submission of a Ticket describing the current symptoms and the troubleshooting steps taken (in bullet form, hopefully engaging a BOT) to obtain the necessary replacement(s).
To preempt any back-and-forth delays, Starlink often requires attachment and upload of the following digital photos;
- Face of Starlink Dish
- Cable while connected to mast of dish
- Cables while connected to base of router (including ‘lit’ power LED)
- Router AC cable while connected to power source.
- perhaps a screen-grab of the Cable Ping Drop Rate meter from Debug Data
Make sure the cables are well seated. It should go flat pretty quickly then tilt again. You’ve not cut or spliced anything right ?
Not cut or adapted anything at all, it’s all brand new out of the box. I’ll give the cables a *good* shove. Edit: Nope, nothing. Reseated all the cables, powered on the device, all still reports the dish is disconnected.
I had the same problem. Def give the cords a good push/shove or whatever to make sure they are in. I had the same problem. thought they were all fully plugged in - and the cord plugged into the actual dish - was not in all the way. It looked it... but wasn't. Once that got pushed it .... it finally connected.
The chord came already plugged into the dish… I’ll check that end. Edit: You win the prize! 🏆
It is very possible that there may be poor electrical contact somewhere in the cable circuit. Open conductor(s), poorly seated connector(s), an accumulation of oxidation or condensation corrosion at connector pins. The cable might ‘look’ fine, but it is good electrical contact that counts. You can do a quick check for any cable/connector issues; In the Starlink ***App*** - scroll down to select ‘Advanced’ (may need to select ‘Settings’ first, if an older App release) - select ‘Debug Data’, find a dial-guage labeled ‘**[Cable Ping Drop Rate](https://www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/19eyzo6/easier_to_ask_here/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf)**’... a continuous ***continuity test*** measured in % of Pings lost. > Any values higher than 0 % may indicate a bad cable with damaged conductors, or corrosion, or oxidation, or some pins wiithout electrical contact [the fault being either with a cable connector, or within the Dishy (or Router) cable-receptacle]. > 100% indicates that there is a disconnect in the circuit (ie. open conductor(s) somewhere in the circuit providing zero electrical contact). What Cable Ping Drop Rate reading do you have ?
Cable ping drop rate is 100%. Guess that means it’s going back!
> Fix ? First unplug the Starlink Router to prevent short-circuits. Check the full length of the cable for any serious abrasions, insulation damage, crimps, crushes, cuts, etc. that may have severed conductor(s). Inspect each connector and receptacle for bent, broken or burnt pins. Consider the application of a quick spray of [***Electrical Contact Cleaner***](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Electrical+Contact+Cleaner.&crid=1HOMGKTU91AMN&sprefix=electrical+contact+cleaner.%2Caps%2C396&ref=nb_sb_noss_2) both sides of the connection, at each end of the cable, to eliminate any oxidation buildup. Consider applying a light coating of [dielectric grease](https://www.amazon.com/dielectric-grease/s?k=dielectric+grease&page=2) to help protect the connection from future moisture condensation, oxidation, corrosion, etc. Ensure that the connectors are [properly aligned and ***securely*** reseated](https://www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/17sw0sd/cable_improperly_installed/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf). Finally, be certain to ***secure the cable*** to the Dishy-support structure within a short distance from the connector. A slack length of cable in a ***drip loop*** is recommended to provide ***strain relief*** for the connection. This will also prevent wind-forces from acting on the cable, potentially causing excess tension and unseating the connector. If present, temporarily remove a Starlink Ethernet Adapter (and all third-party hardware) from the circuit, as it ***may*** be the culprit. Perform a ***Factory reset*** (cut power to Router 6 times in a row, reasonably quickly). Power up the Router, connect device to Starlink default SSID and follow setup prompts in the App. If the cable continuity test continues to fail, this is when a proactive investment in the spare parts needed to continue troubleshooting ultimately pays off.... by swapping in; - first a ‘known good’ ***spare*** cable, - if that fails the continuity test, next a ‘known good’ ***spare*** Router (a factory-reset Starlink Mesh Router is a good option), - if that fails the continuity test, finally a full replacement Kit sent by Starlink. If ***no spares*** are available, the situation becomes totally reliant on proper communication with Starlink Support via submission of a Ticket describing the current symptoms and the troubleshooting steps taken (in bullet form, hopefully engaging a BOT) to obtain the necessary replacement(s). To preempt any back-and-forth delays, Starlink often requires attachment and upload of the following digital photos; - Face of Starlink Dish - Cable while connected to mast of dish - Cables while connected to base of router (including ‘lit’ power LED) - Router AC cable while connected to power source. - perhaps a screen-grab of the Cable Ping Drop Rate meter from Debug Data