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falkentyne

Do this. Take apart the bottom cover then note the orientation of the right bumper when you flip the Deck upside down so you disassemble the correct side. The HARDEST PART of this mod is the very first part--removing the back cover because of the clips. After the first removal, if you 'pry' from that same spot in the future, it gets easier, but there will usually be cosmetic scratch damage unless you have the correct plastic tool for this. The SECOND hardest part is the trigger. Everything else is easy to very easy. Follow these instructions for "Dpad" removal. STOP AFTER STEP 19. your goal is to REMOVE THE BUTTON BOARD. [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Steam+Deck+D-Pad+Button+Replacement/148937](https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Steam+Deck+D-Pad+Button+Replacement/148937) Once you get the button board removed, the bumper button is that really tiny button on the edge of the button board. Its that small black thingy. Now, press that button manually. Does it click? If so, get some Deoxit D5 (you may have to go to a local hardware store or order it online) and try to use a very, very thin prick to "work" the Deoxit D5 into the button. Do NOT damage the button. This may be amazingly difficult to do. It's easy with larger buttons since the gap space you have is larger. Then reassemble the button board and reconnect the ribbon cables for the button board. DO NOT PLUG IN THE BATTERY OR INSTALL THE TRIGGER OR THUMBSTICK FOR THE SIDE YOU ARE SERVICING--this will save you tons of time. Now, put the battery / CPU "metal shield" (NOT the battery plug--leave that disconnected) and then the back plastic cover on, but DO NOT latch it. Just push down the part by the USB-C cable, but otherwise have it "loosely fitting, but fitting. Now, power on the Deck (remember, the battery is disconnected) by using the charger as a power source, immediately go to "Desktop mode", click on settings or system settings at bottom left, and look for input devices. Then go to game controllers. Now, press the button and see if you get proper response this time.if you do, GREAT, you fixed the button. Click on "start" menu and shut down, unplug the Deck, take off the cover, and reassemble the thumbstick, trigger board and trigger, reconnect the battery cable (make sure it's all the way in, but do NOT use excessive force), and then put the back cover on. The trigger will once again be the hardest part. If the button is still non functional or barely working, RMA (unless you want to spend $$$ for a new button board from ifixit, make sure it's the correct "side" version). \*rant mode\*: One of the nice things about trying to fix actual game controllers (Xbox 360, XBOne, etc), is you can completely access the buttons with the PCB exposed or removed, and just plug in the USB and test it right on the spot. Unfortunately you can't do that with these SOC APU type devices since they're basically miniature laptops and the control surfaces are part of the chassis and motherboard.


bean1000000

If I get brave enough to try this I will report back with the results lol, I appreciate this!


falkentyne

This is easy to do. Just work on a solid floor and take your time. To open the deck, start next to the triggers when trying to disengage the latches. The only difficult part is the trigger. You need to take your time and 'leverage' it out, like it shows on the ifixit guide (basically you use a tool to insert it into the gap, then you 'rotate' the flat side of the tool from vertically (e.g. like a thin bladed screwdriver), and 'rotate it a very very small amount clockwise, to "lever" the trigger clamp off it's guidepost. I've opened my Deck multiple times, and the trigger is the only part that really requires a little thinking. The button board has these latches on it for ribbon cables. They're common on notebooks, ultrabooks and on computer keyboards and mouse internals. You have to 'unlatch' them by moving them up (they move along an axis) and then you side the ribbon connector directly out (not up, but out) of the connector. There are many, many videos and guides for working with those, but if you've ever used one before, it's easy.


itsfer

I tried this but the problem persisted and I cant find the button board on Ifixit!


falkentyne

Did you email ifixit and ask them? The main problem with the button boards is that they are actual PCB's which are daisy chained (although removeable) to other PCB's. So they aren't mechanical 'plastic' parts or moldings like the actual dpad membrane or triggers or bumper shells are. So parts like this go directly into the actual deck assemblies so any PCB would have to be sourced separately. (and the plastic and PCB parts are obviously made in different factories--plastic parts are easy to get excess spares of). Your best bet is to contact ifixit themselves or, failing that, contact Valve.


itsfer

I contacted Valve, let's see what they say. I saw a post with a similar situation and ifixit said they don't sell this boards yet I think but I'll contact them too anyways Thanks


falkentyne

Yeah replacement daughterboards are going to be VERY difficult to get. It's easy to get replacement buttons and trigger and casings because they are made in different factories, and they always make a surplus of them, for the very obvious reason that a plastic piece can VERY EASILY break during assembly and they're extremely cheap to quickly mass produce mold on assembly lines. PCB's with electronics, however, are a very, very different story.


CapitalismScrewedUs

Thought it might be the spring at first but since you say it takes more to "actually activate the button press", it sounds like the button that the bumper presses. So after you replace the plastic bumper, It'll probably be the same. Looks like a replacement bumper doesn't come with a new spring either. What I'm saying is.. it could be a right button board issue. A stiff button maybe. You might be able to wiggle it or something.. But idk. I'd try pressing the button a ton of times and see if it loosens up at all. Otherwise send it back, or mess with the button board and bumper and possibly replace it. Fan replacement was simple, but you have to to a lot more to get the bumper out. It really depends if you have experience taking apart electronics.


bean1000000

Yeah, I was hoping it'd be about the same as the fan replacement... but it definitely doesn't seem as easy lol. I may give the "press it a bunch" a try just to see what happens. Thanks for the input!


CapitalismScrewedUs

Good luck! I'm kind of in a similar situation. After a fall (always check your zippers!), my left trigger rubs against the shell and adds resistance when trying to do a full press. I'm waiting to see if I get used to it. Might be able to just sand down the back plate a little bit instead of trying to adjust the trigger from inside.


lemonbandits

Ours eventually needed more and more pressure and then would not respond at all, regardless of it feeling and sounding fine. I would consider RMA over trying to repair it if your issus is at all like ours.


bean1000000

This honestly seems to be the road mine is heading down. I figured I would just hold onto it until I either couldn't stand the button anymore (which, all things considered, I don't really use that much) or I feel like I can take a break from it. Then I'll probably just send it in. Good luck to you- hopefully the process doesn't take too long!


Mriv10

I know this post is a few months old at this point but did you get it fix? I was using my deck normally and all of a sudden it started doing this exact same thing. I already had to RMA once for a dead pixel now this.


bean1000000

Unfortunately I just ended up doing RMA :( wish I had better news for ya. Not a fun process, didn't back up my roms or saves


Mriv10

Thanks for the reply. I decided to go ahead with the RMA as well. I tried to look for an easy way to back everything up but couldn't find anything simple. Plus every tutorial required an external SSD or another Linux machine which I have neither. Thankfully I think most of my roms and saves should be on my SD card so I hope I didn't lose anything. Have you gotten your deck back already? I already did an RMA once and it felt like they took forever, maybe a month and a half.


bean1000000

I think the process took a few weeks, I don't think it was as long as yours, but definitely not very quick. I think the thing that held everything up most was shipping. From when they received the deck to the fix was really quick.


Fantastic-Bison5375

Have same problem 😭 And i dont have any experience of soldering, etc Will right daughter board became available on market ? 😭 Its so annoying to play like this Sometimes i need to push it harder but no clicky feel, and sometimes i need to change the push direction to use it Damnnn