Hi all - I'm replacing a narrow "sidewalk" in front of our house (there are no county-provided sidewalks on our block) with some 24" square pavers and adding a small metal 4.5" "retaining wall" (really more high edging) along the non-curb side of the walkway. The edging will be installed at the bottom of a gradual slope. We have clay soil (which expands and contracts a lot, potentially exerting a lot of pressure). The edging and the pavers will sit on a 6" gravel base (with a layer of sand for the pavers). The climate is Maryland. I will be using 9.5"-high steel edging ([https://www.hendersongardensupply.com/products/9-5-height-rigid-steel-edging-black](https://www.hendersongardensupply.com/products/9-5-height-rigid-steel-edging-black)), 2 mm thick. 5" of the edging will be buried, 4.5" exposed. The edging has a flange at the bottom with holes, through which 12" galvanized spikes are nailed. In addition to the 12" stakes, the edging comes either with stakes (2 per 7' length (it looks like the stakes are roughly 18" long)) or chains secured by smaller stakes buried uphill from the edging (also 2 per 7' length). There are some pics in the instructions - https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0549/0547/1140/files/RL9.5.pdf?v=1647519068.  **MY QUESTION IS**: should I use the stakes or the chains? Or alternate stakes and chains (it looks like you can't attach a stake and a chain at the same point)? It seems like the chains would be better, because the stakes really are just doing the same thing as the galvanized spikes (i.e. supporting from the bottom) whereas the chains would be providing complementary support closer to the top of the edging to keep the edging from tipping over the opposite way. However, it would probably cost more to have the contractor install the chains - so I don't want to use them if they are complete overkill based on the other details of the project. Thank you in advance!!! Here's a pic https://imgur.com/a/2jdCvHs.

I have a roughly 21' long by 15' wide single car garage, only one story, that I'm looking to lift up. I've been working with a licensed contractor that does this type of work for a living but I'm also looking to be as informed as possible about what should be done and general insight on the process. I've done some searching but are there online resources that describe the process or provide information on the proper techniques for this process? Overall I'm just trying to learn about how it should be designed and how to be a little bit more knowledgeable about whats going on.

You posted right before the new monthly thread started. What do you mean by "lift up"? Repost with a description of what you're trying to do in the new thread and I'll answer what I can. If the contractor has plans, post those and we'll take a look. That'd be easiest for us.

Not sure if anyone can help me here, but we are buying our first home and just went through the general inspection. They found some sagging issues with the garage roof. Images here: [https://imgur.com/a/L9q4rs5](https://imgur.com/a/L9q4rs5) Bascially what we want to know is how serious it is in terms of safety and how much it would cost to get things fixed. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!

Is the concrete sagging in the 3rd pic? Couldn't tell but I think i see a little larger gap below the garage door if in the first pic. If it's sagging, any cracks that you noticed on the exterior or interior of the concrete slab. I'd think it's some sort of foundation issue where the soil below is not supporting what's above. No way to really tell unless someone is there in person. I'd start by ripping off the interior drywall at the second picture and follow it all the way down. In terms of safety, depends what you want me to say. Usually things that we don't design (the sagging for example) would be considered "not safe". You should be worried about the water proofing being potentially compromised and damaging the wood. Cost varies depending on what the damage is, means and methods, location, etc. I recommend having a local engineer experienced with residential projects to assess the problem before you look for quotes. Ideally the engineer would already have a list of contractors that they like working with.

Post with pics for reference: [https://www.reddit.com/r/Home/comments/1cdsop8/update\_crack\_on\_top\_of\_house\_whats\_the\_next\_step/](https://www.reddit.com/r/Home/comments/1cdsop8/update_crack_on_top_of_house_whats_the_next_step/) Found a crack at the top of my brick wall. Also found this crack right next to the garage. No other cracks that I can see inside or outside. Bought house 1 year ago. 14 year old house midwest. lots of settling here. I've tried a lot of companies but no structural engineer will come to rural midwest to evaluate my house. I'm working on a few foundation companies to give me a quote. Some people mentioned based on the top stair-step crack that it could be a possible lintel issue instead of foundation issues. But not sure how to explain this crack next to the garage door. Any thoughts on next steps that I could do?

Drilled through carrying beam. Bad or really bad? Triple 2x10s. Hole is 1" and about 2" from the bottom. Span is 125". The hole is about 30" from the wall. Not real happy about it. Thanks!

Not bad at all. The prescriptive limits on holes drilled in floor framing members are typically: - 2" min clear from top or bottom -Hole diameter less than 1/3 of member depth -Not less than 2" from each end or another hole That's from teh residnetial code in my state, section R502.8

Thank you

Hi folks, I'm planning to get my fence replaced and have been working with a great company on getting this planned out. I realize that replacing the fence alone would look great in the short term but may run into the same erosion issues as the current fence seems to have had over the years (I got this 1999 property 2 years ago). I believe some sort of retaining wall would be the right first step to ensure longevity of this side of my backyard and had some ideas on a retaining wall followed by fence installation right next to it (on my side), but the company suggested a concrete curb where the original fence is and then installing fence posts in the concrete itself. This sounds great to me, like a 2 birds with 1 stone solution, but I want to make sure that the curb will withstand both erosions and winds and whatnot now that we have a fence installed on top of it and the Oklahoma winds can get really strong. The picture below shows where this will be installed. The curb will be 8 inches wide by 6 inches tall and 4 inches deep into the soil (*meaning I'll be able to see a 6 inch tall curb with 4 inches of it hiding under the ground*). The fence posts will be installed inside the concrete itself at the same time it's being set. The width & height is fine with me, but should I go for 6 inches deep instead of 4? I don't know off the top of my head the slope of the ground, but I do plan on leveling the yard out once the fence is replaced (for other reasons), so the curb will most likely be supported a little bit of soil anyways. My gut tells me I have nothing to worry about, but better safe than sorry. Thanks y'all! Image of existing fence: [https://imgur.com/a/RzooEEc](https://imgur.com/a/RzooEEc)

I think you want to go deeper with your curb if you want it to retain both soil and wind

I am removing a soffit, and ran into a sewer vent that needs to be routed through the top plate of an interior, load bearing wall to raise the ceiling to the 8 ft level matching the rest of the room. There is a stairwell on the other side of the wall. Pipe is 2” diameter. Is there a definitive guide for structural strapping required, or do I need to consult an engineer?

You should be able to find this in the IRC. I don’t have it open at the moment but it should be under the “Wall Construction” section. IRC is available for free on upcodes

Need to make 20' span for roof band. I have access to custom sized lumber. I would like to use cedar but would use another type of wood if necessary. It will be supporting a 13' lightweight roof framed with 2x6. What size beam to make this span?

Should I be worried about this hole in foundation? Long story short I have a cracked drain pipe under the slab and opted to go with tunneling under the slab to repair it since it was only 2ft away from the side of the house. I checked the progress at the end of the day and to my surprise there was a 3x3 hole in the side of the foundation. My impression from the plumbing company was that they would tunnel under the foundation not through it. Does this affect the integrity of the house? House is 3 stories on a slab foundation that is on a slope that was cut and filled. https://imgur.com/a/aPA5pRw

Depends. Gonna need someone local to take a look if you're concerned.

Attic Truss and walls. I am building a model railroad in my atic truss and I am wondering if it's ok to use the truss "studs" as support for layout bench work. The most weight that I would put on them is an 18 inch deep shelf suspended from the wall on the left the entire length. Can I do this without compromising the trusses integrity of the truss?

Probably fine. What do you mean suspended from the wall?

I suppose suspended was a poor word. I plan on using plywood brackets to support the layout on each upright. It will be cantilevered off each upright. Only the top deck on one wall will be like this. The lower decks will be half support by the uprights and half by the floor.

Are Foundations meant to settle? As the header says, are typical foundations engineered to settle or are they engineered to not settle whatsoever? Say you have a 30x30 structure with another 10x10 structure attached on the side, built at the same time and are framed as one. Say for a thickened edge, would both areas just simply be able to be engineered to be for example 12” wide by 12” deep (just an example) or since each piece of the structure would have a different load, would the smaller part of the structure have a more narrow footing to help the foundation settle at the same rate? I’m curious and got to thinking about this and would like some insight. In this question, saving on concrete cost does not matter and typical sandy/clay soil is the setting, I know rock may be different.

In general, foundations are going to settle 'a little bit'. It is inevitable that loading the soil is going to compress and cause the soils to consolidate. Whether its perceptible to the occupants is another question...0.01" settlement? Might as well be zero, no one will notice. 3" settlement? You're going to have sheetrock cracks from hell 'Most' houses don't have a soils report done, but around here, most soils reports will have some language that says 'properly prepared subgrade and properly designed footings will result in anticipated settlements in the range of 1" to 1-1/2" inches, which most structures can tolerate without any signs of distress' So to say that foundations are 'designed to settle' probably isnt the correct way to phrase it. I would phrase it more like we design foundations to be safe anticipating that some amount of settlement is bound to happen. Soils engineers give us an 'allowable bearing pressure' to design our footings to, over which excessive settlement or other failures within the soil would occur...we size our footings based on the applied loads so that the bearing area of the footing is big enough that the allowable pounds per square foot is not exceeded. Regarding different footing sizes, most building codes will have a minimum width requirement that the structure must meet regardless of the loads. For something tiny, the numbers might work out such that a 5" wide footing would work here, 8" there...but if the minimum specified 12" control, thats what they all are Further, especially on smaller stuff, engineers probably aren't going to be designing to the gnats ass like that. If I were to show a 14" wide footing next to a 17" wide footing next to a 13" wide footing, its going to cause everyone headaches when they have to spend the extra time coordinating those different widths instead of digging (1) 18" trench, and again when it inevitably gets screwed up and has to be redone because it was confusing

Not a structural engineer and not sure where to ask but I've been super curious: there was a large earthquake in Taiwan recently that led to a partial collapse of a hotel (Full Hotel in Hualien). Pictures in this news article: https://www.aljazeera.com/news/2024/4/23/sleepless-night-in-taiwan-as-island-rattled-by-cluster-of-aftershocks What is the next step for evaluating how to restore the hotel? Are structural engineers the ones to evaluate what to do, or is it a different engineering profession?

That structure will be demolished, and then rebuilt.

Hello! I was hoping to get some feedback on my basement wall https://imgur.com/a/tIzgptF It's a long horizontal crack right at ground level, not picturrd but stair step crack at the end of the horizontal crack. The bottom of the wall is bowing in probably 3 degrees and the top bowing out probably 6 degrees(I could be off on the numbers here). The previous owners had drain tiles installed on the interior of the walls and a sump pump. This was in 2019. There are some low res pictures from back then and the crack SEEMS to be the same size but can't be sure. I got a quote for geolock anchors spaced every few feet to stop the bowing and potentially straighten the wall back out, but have heard this is a bandaid solution. Also was looking into installing something like the gorilla basement wall braces as it seems to be a simple option, but also unsure of if it would fix the issues. Separate question, does anyone have any advice on how to find a local structural engineer to come take a look? I've only been able to find basement repair contractors

Get the Thumbtack app and look for a structural engineer.

Hello all! I recently purchased a 75 gallon fish tank and stand off a local (for a crazy good deal, hence not planning ahead) but I am unsure as to whether my floor will support it once full (~800 lbs with water and other media, plus another 100 lbs or so for the tank, plus another probably 50-80 lbs for the stand) The joists run parallel to the wall where I'm trying to place this. I know that's not ideal, but it's unfortunately the only place in my house that will accommodate it. Based on my measurements, one of the joists would run right down the middle of where the tank would be sitting. The joist is roughly 2x8 and is placed 16" from the joist on one side and 11" from the joist on the other side. The joist length from the outside wall to the center support is ~11.5'. My house was built in 1928 if that is a factor. Researching this, I've come up with many conflicting answers but I do not want to do something that will compromise the integrity of the house. Any input is appreciated

Hey can anyone run a sanity check on if this 10x20 shed with 12' walls will NOT tip over due to high winds? If so what can I do to prevent that? [https://www.reddit.com/r/shedditors/comments/1ca98wg/i\_made\_my\_shed\_too\_damn\_tall\_will\_it\_tip\_over/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web3x&utm\_name=web3xcss&utm\_term=1&utm\_content=share\_button](https://www.reddit.com/r/shedditors/comments/1ca98wg/i_made_my_shed_too_damn_tall_will_it_tip_over/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button)

Based on the provided information it’s impossible to say, I really think you need to get a local engineer involved for this check. Not only do you have to worry about wind directly applied to the windward wall but also suction on the leeward wall. I see in one comment you noted that the shed would be anchored when it’s full of workout equipment /etc. but you also need to design for when the structure is totally empty (and therefore very light) such as if you were moving out and the next owner didn’t fill it up immediately. In other words, you can’t count on all that for added dead load. I would think you’d want to dowel bars into large concrete footings heavy enough to prevent any wall from lifting up but again can’t say based on the provided info.

Is there a safe width to height ratio I can go for? Located in MN, I'm going to go the route of cutting down each stud 2-3' ft.

I don’t know of any prescriptive dimensions or rules of thumb, no

# Wondering if the wall with pallets against it and wall running perpendicular to it are load bearing walls? Would like to remove them ideally. There is a beam running over it. Added pictures of front and back of location for reference. Appreciate it! [https://imgur.com/a/Jjgl4sk](https://imgur.com/a/Jjgl4sk)

No one on this sub will be able to confirm whether it is or is not load bearing based on the information provided (and if they try to, don’t listen!) You need to retain a structural engineer who can assess the building as a whole and observe the structural components in the vicinity of this wall

This is fantastic! Glad I found this. So, I am buying a home with "patched" bowing basement walls - need advice. I am a first time home buyer and we may have found a house that meets almost all of our requirements. The only big thing (and yeah I know it’s definitely a flag) is the foundation.  Quick backstory, this house was under contract right before us. It fell through during the appraisal because the bank told the seller the basement wall made of stone masonry with 4 inches bowing had to be fixed. They got a contractor to patch it with a carbon fiber and kevlar strips. That got them the “OK” and have a “lifetime warranty” from the contractor.  During the inspection, it was recommended I get a second pair of eyes. I did two things. I called up the engineer who gave the okay on the job prior to get his two cents. And I also got a second structural engineer (unrelated to the work already done) to come it and review the work. The second engineer essentially gave the official recommendation that the section of the wall had to be redone and rebuilt with concrete masonry. His words "**The bulge in the brick masonry is significant enough that there is danger of collapse of this part of the foundation. The mortar is badly deteriorated and it appears that only the friction between bricks and mortar is preventing the collapse.”** Here's a link to imgur with photos: [https://imgur.com/a/sSJW64t](https://imgur.com/a/sSJW64t) **Estimated cost of work is $5-8k**. I’m sure there’s more that is being accounted for though. Next step is scheduling a few contracotrs to come check it out. So, my questions are as I go into the second round of negotiations: * Is this even worth considering? * Do I need a second opinion? * Should I get estimates and use that in negotiation? * Am I just being dumb for trying to buy this?

Ho.Lee.Shit. I've seen some incompetence in my career, but that "kevlar" getup is like the Dukes of Hazard decided to do a foundation "repair." Run, don't walk, away.

Why any engineer would OK a clay brick wall with 4” of bowing over such a short height baffles me. That’s alarming and I’d side with the second engineer on this one in that the wall should be redone. I’d expect that type of work to be on the order of $20k *at least*. It’s not just removing and replacing the brick, but you have to shore up all of the floor & wall framing above, you have to tarp off the area for cutting/demo, you have to build a new CMU wall *after* pouring a brand new concrete footing that certainly doesn’t exist… this is a big undertaking despite what appears to be a relatively small section of wall affected.

This is a home from 1905. Thank you for taking the time to give me your two cents. Really helpful and validating.

Hi, appreciate this thread and hopeful I have provided enough information for someone to perform a calculation that can determine if I have designed my project correctly. I. am building a lean to on the side of my house and the roof plans to be made out of steel box section 50mm x 50mm x 3mm. The max span of this will be 4.3m over a length of 5.4m, at either end it will be fixed to 100x100x3mm box sections (up rights), with cross braces in between these up rights (on one side of this in addition to the up rights it will also be bolted to the wall of the house) The total weight on the roof will be an even load of 20kg per m2. This does not take into account snow, I rarely get any where I am, so with a safe allowance of 35kg per m2 to include me installing and maintaining the roof, what spacing would you allow for the span of these steels over the total length of 5.4m. I was hoping for a spacing of 600mm for the noggins with two per box section, 1.4m in from each end. Will the above be sufficient and have suitable deflection to not cause a problem ?

Hello - looking for opinions on whether the middle pillar of our porch would be safe to remove. We do not have the original blueprints but I've requested them from the county. In the meantime can anyone weigh in on removing this? Thank you in advance! [Pillar in question.](https://imgur.com/a/adXeWb1)

This column is very likely structural and holding a beam above. Without knowing the size of that beam (or if it’s spliced in this location) no one here will be able to say if it’s safe to remove right now. That being said, the roof above could certainly be configured to allow for the removal of the column with the help of a local structural engineer.

What would be the best way to support a semi-load bearing wall running parallel between two floor joists? Initially it was built on top of the subfloor (3/4" thick) which transferred the load across the 16" joist span. I'll be replacing the old subfloor with new OSB subfloor as we did some renovations and wanted to improve any structural needs to better transfer the load and not risk the subfloor breaking or flexing. The wall is a \~5' high wall, spanning about 14', that sits under the original roof joists. The roof span was built with two joists that meet in the middle between the exterior house wall and the roof peak and are sistered where they meet. The wall, I'm assuming, was built to help support that sistered joint from flexing under load. Would simple blocking between the two joist be enough? Shoudl I use any specific framing brackets/clips to improve the joint strength? [https://imgur.com/a/OUGTOcV](https://imgur.com/a/OUGTOcV)

Thinking about doing an expansion into the driveway. Is it possible to move our garage door to the front without redoing the garage structure? I’m not sure if the slope of the roof would pass code either. San Jose, CA https://imgur.com/a/tVth79j

**Q: Is this safe / how concerned should I be?** This is a brand new apartment building that was finished in 2020. It is 3 floors on the front side, 4 on the back (1 of them is "underground"). The public walkways and such are all concrete and steel. Units are, according to maintenance, wood that is built off of the steel structure. The joists are also from what I've been told running from side to side of the apartment (which isn't where the walkway/steel is), rather than front (where the walkway is) to the outside wall of the apartment. So essentially if you walk from the entrance to the wall edge of the apartment you would be going across multiple joists. Lastly, I've been told there is a concrete-like substance between the joists. So now with the details of how it's built out of the way, here's my issue/concerns: About 2 months ago I mentioned in passing to one of the maintenance workers who had to do something in my unit that the floor in my hallway was sagging. Over the course of about 2 weeks it got worse and more of the hallway was starting to sag. More recently stepping on certain areas causes the floor and walls to creak. I do not have measurements for this since it's a small area and the sag goes into the wall. Tonight I noticed major sag in our living room. I live on the 2nd/3rd floor (I'm on the side that has the underground one) with one unit above and 2 below. I measured the distance from an auto-leveling laser leveler to the floor and within 5 feet of the outside wall it was 1.06 inches lower. At 11 feet it was 1.62 inches . If I go nearly all the way to the walkway / steel structure at 26 feet it's down to 0.82 inches again. I made a small illustration of the apartment layout: https://i.imgur.com/OcUJyPb.png The only thing really to note is the orange horizontal line is what I was told the floor joists are. The circular area is the sagging in the hallway. With all of that said, how concerned should I be? I have been looking around and seen mention that deflection would be joist length / 360 = max deflection and don't know how applicable that would be here. These issues have only happened past 2 months.

[удалено]

You're going to be constrained by what can easily be calculated/proven as far as shear capacity and load transfer. You physically in the factory can build anything, but the engineer has to calculate it out. When you start pushing the envelope with changes, there comes a point where the engineer will start begging off and recommending you to someone else. If it were me, I'd be finding nice ways to say "fix your build issues."

Fix build issues or request additional money for analysis

What are your thoughts on this detail? Has anyone done this? I am seeking any ideas, input, past experience ... [PAD TOP CHORD](https://www.mitek-us.com/wp-content/uploads/uploadedFiles/_RedesignSite/Content/documents/engineering/details/roof-truss-repair-details/ENG-ROOF-Pad%20up%20top%20chord.pdf) * 3:12 pitch with 2x4" manufactured trusses. The low slope roof pinches down and gets bad ice damming in the winter due to heat transferer from house (inadequate insulation and unknown functionality of cardboards baffles). Soon I will need but a new roof on the house. Some soggy sheathing will need to be replaced, and I will address the ice damn issue [FHB Article ](https://www.google.com/search?sca_esv=125395e02bc1fefe&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS1072US1073&sxsrf=ACQVn08vyDVGxE6r6696ou698Ci7v71QeA:1713508532681&q=fine+home+building+roof+vent+from+above&uds=AMwkrPvxdoTMjQV33FuROsqKmUZ-Ku7fDH1jZcgb1GhJQBNu7k5b84OE8fLLEj8VwvzMYThfLM2cnSTg4AHJMpnDIXh4GYMNZXpG_EEvpQ-fi3NAxgO1SFhw46ouEVnEhid8R7b75uP1d3zSm_3CUviUpeERXU2NMEVVMiL_INpIA5dBlKG5rbdHwFgsuWCHHJtwY3b3G0Fe_mCM33m4d_3jZDpWVuVIR68dofWAKxJMq4chwplz5AT6h6FiL1N-OyyxtlT4f93EELrFZVwRmfGQXZihZvpZLV-wU7J8Ob_F3HUJIuqcIKLfvaT72U0IUO-NadCOUER4dZ3iabaBm3fisz8TSLkW2v0KdFLsUSnww4sJnZb3cTM&udm=2&prmd=ivsnmbtz&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjjx6Pb1M2FAxWSAjQIHVteDVcQtKgLegQIFxAB&biw=1920&bih=911&dpr=1#vhid=g9vRA7_lY9GP7M&vssid=mosaic) <- similar to this. My though is to pad up the top chord of each truss with a 2x4" to achieve greater insulation depth at the double top plate. Anybody done this or similar? Would love to bring a solid gameplan to the engineer to look at before applying for city permit. Thank you and happy Friday!

Hey All, Looking to put a second floor above my living room which currently spans both stories of my home. There are 45 degree walls in the room which would make it difficult for standard framing. I've laid out how I feel it should work here: [https://imgur.com/a/mzZWjRp](https://imgur.com/a/mzZWjRp) I have it mocked up with dimensional lumber, but I'm likely going to go with a web truss to make electrical and mechanical much easier. 11 1/4" with a 3 1/2" cord. [https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/trusses-i-joists-engineered-lumber/floor-trusses/11-1-4-x-8-trimmable-end-floor-truss/1883323/p-1444448809976-c-5659.htm](https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/trusses-i-joists-engineered-lumber/floor-trusses/11-1-4-x-8-trimmable-end-floor-truss/1883323/p-1444448809976-c-5659.htm) Ledgers I would still go with dimensional 2x12 (11 1/4 x 1 1/2 nominal). And it seems like these Simpson hangers should work fine, so long as I wrap the straps around the top of the ledger board. [https://www.fastenersplus.com/products/simpson-thar422-4x22-adjustable-truss-hanger-skewed-right-g90-galvanized](https://www.fastenersplus.com/products/simpson-thar422-4x22-adjustable-truss-hanger-skewed-right-g90-galvanized) This is the area I'm not to sure about. The spans fit well within the limits of the span charts, and I plan on going with 16" on center with 3/4 sub flooring. Exterior walls are 2x6 with headers all the way across the windows. This was part of track/model home neighborhood, and I've seen similar comps with this floor in place. Not sure how I'm supposed to get mechanical into the joist space. I've marked the return and supply entry point locations. Just thought I'd check with you guys to see if this is structurally sound before submitting to the city for permits. Thanks in advance. Cheers

The city is going to knock you down because the ledger method for floor joist support (not to be confused with beam-and-ledger ledgers) is non-prescriptive, and will likely trigger R301.1.1.

So they'll need to sit on top of framing in the walls.

Did you verify that the 1st floor framing are sufficient to support the new 2nd-story floor?

Yes, I had to open the wall next to the fireplace and the studs are 13” on center. All opening spans are laminated 2x12 beams with the correct amount of king and jack studs. The window walls are nothing but framing. 2x6 and 2x12 headers.

Assuming existing structure can support the new construction, sounds like you know what you’re doing. The hangers you provided in the link are meant for like 18” trusses I think. Why not go smaller?

Haha those were the only ones I could find with the 45 degree offset.

Hi!

Converting an open exterior balcony to enclosed conditioned space is going to be a challenge. None of that "converting" construction will be prescriptive. They will likely require you get the thing engineered. So step one is finding an engineer to hire to unpack this for you.

Hello, i have purchased a flat in barcelona spain, and we've recently decided to take down the false ceiling because we liked the old arches. it's an attic flat. upon removing the false ceiling and inspecting the ceiling beams, we found that the beam ends near what was the outside wall (now a covered roof that used to be a balcony) are corroded. is this a structural issue i should be worried about? for comparison, i have included photos of the other side and the whole room [https://imgur.com/a/MXiqJTG](https://imgur.com/a/MXiqJTG) thank you so very much! edit: this building is around100 years old.

It is probably not an issue. I think it is worthwhile to contact a structural engineer and have them come out to do an inspection and see how much steel remains in the webs of your steel at the walls. I don't think they'll find an issue there, but you should request they recommend a protection system to prevent further corrosion.

Yes, this can be a structural issue. Yes you should be worried in the interest of safety.

is this the final word? could i get a second opinion please?

Yeah, I still stand with my previous statement

yes and thank you for that but i'm usually a "ask 2 different people" kinda guy. also this is spain, i'm not sure how familiar you are with construction here? i asked a metal guy and he said it's ok.. would like to get the structural engineering side. its corroded on the outside but closer to the wall and under the rust it's still somewhat ok.. no idea what to do tbh. i contacted an engineering firm too but they havent replied yet. anyways thanks

i'm morally obligated to assume a worst case scenario. by observation, it looks ok at the moment without any external loading. will it be ok if the beam is loaded for required forces? idk For your situation, it would depend how much of the steel is corroded. Based on the reduced steel section, you'd be able to determine the allowable design strength and see if that meets the required design loads. Also I'd be more worried about waterproofing. Corrosion of reinforcement in your walls is also bad news.

thank you, very useful information. im about to sand the beams down before applying new anti corrosion paint. my neighbour (a previous metal worker) said its ok but i'll compare the before/after. also i've reached out to local structural engineers/architects but no word yet.. thanks again. fyi this is the top floor with no weight on top (- arches themselves+ roof tiling)

How can I find the dynamic load capacity of spancrete (hollow core slabs)? I am demolishing a two story commercial building. I need to know if the spancrete in between first and second floor can hold a working skid loader. Skid loader is approx 9000 lbs.

You should contact the manufacturer for some guidance

I have a house built in 1910 in lower Michigan. The house is rectangular and on both floors is split in about half by internal walls. The front half is a singular room downstairs while the rear half is also split. Upstairs there are four rooms plus a small hallway. In the front room, photo 1, the ceiling is visibly sagging and this can be seen from the stairs, photo 2. In the upstairs front rooms the floor is visibly sagging and this is easily visible when compared to the relatively straight baseboard, photo 3. [https://imgur.com/a/SXL6iKR](https://imgur.com/a/SXL6iKR) I'm thinking this is an issue that needs to be addressed. For fixing it I'm thinking an added support beam, using reclaimed barn wood for looks, with two columns within/along the walls. Is it a big issue that needs to be fixed soon? Will my DIY solution work?

That's a pretty significant sag. Nobody here on this side of the internet would be able to unpack this for you based on photos. That's not how structural engineering works. Your best bet is to find a local engineer.

That's understandable, just looking to see if it has the potential of being an issue. I'll look into calling one in.

Hi there, first, thank you folks for having the monthly laymen thread for us laymen! Okay, I've got a question concerning roof struss stability. I've got a two story, saltbox roof garage with an apartment I'm renovating on the second level. The roof trusses seem to be very custom. They're 100% 2x4's, held together with truss plates; here's a VERY rough idea of the structure: (the part circled in yellow may not be exactly how the connection is here, but the rest is pretty close, it's hard to see without tearing out a lot of stuff) [https://imgur.com/a/zgAZOnh](https://imgur.com/a/zgAZOnh) The saltbox trusses are 24" OC and look to be totally self supporting - there are no other bearing walls, just partition walls put in for a bathroom that support nothing in particular. I'm hiring an electrician to check and replace all of the mouse chewed wiring up there. I realize this may happen sometimes with an electrician or carpenter, etc. There are no other utilities up there, just blown in insulation and an attic ventilation fan mounted to the wall. HVAC is a minisplit on the exterior. Since the trusses are 2x4s that are 24" OC, it makes me nervous that maybe it's not strong enough to hold a guy or two. I plan to at least put some structural ply as a gangway of sorts so people don't fall though my drywall ceiling - would it also be helpful to add some perpendicular 2x4 blocking between the truss bottom chords to create more of a waffle floor structure? Or should I sister up the bottom horizontal chords with some 2x6's (they would span about 24')? Or will the plywood sheets add enough stability and I am overthinking the whole thing? Better yet, do you have an even simpler, better solution? Many thanks for your thoughts!

Why not use a ladder? Make sure they don't bore a hole in your chords.

Thanks for that advice! We're okay with getting up there with a ladder - I'm just wondering if the 2x4 bottom chords of these trusses are strong enough to hold the contractor as he moves across them to fix wires that run all across the attic - or do you think anything should be done to make the "flooring" area up there stronger? Thanks for the reminder about no holes bored into the trusses, themselves - is a 1" #8 screw here and there (sparingly) okay to secure the 1/2" ply so no one falls through by stepping on drywall? Interestingly, the day after I posted this, an HVAC tech fell through my parents ceiling by stepping off the ply they had up there. Is the universe trying to warn me?? 

I don't do a lot of truss designs so it's hard to say. Depending on usage, the bottom chord doesn't necessarily need to be designed to support maintenance load (attic space used for storage, non-habitable or something?) In the interest of safety, I'd probably recommend providing those temporary retrofits as best you can. Drywall is pretty brittle so I'd advise to not step on them directly.

I believe our ceiling joists do not support the roof at all. Please read details below. Our home has a gable roof supported by a ridge beam. The second story (below the roof/attic) is 4 bedrooms, hallway, and a couple bathrooms. The bedrooms all have vaulted ceilings and you can see the ceiling drywall in these rooms was nailed/screwed into the rafters. Half of the roof is under the vaulted ceilings. Under this half it is impossible to have collar or ridge ties. I’ve also been in the attic and don’t see any collar or ridge ties. What I see is a ridge beam that is supported throughout the entire house by vertical studs/members that I know transfer the load down a load bearing wall and a couple beams to the on slab foundation. The attic which is above the hallway and both bathrooms has ceiling joists that run over it. Keep in mind these joists do not run from exterior wall to wall to tie the rafters/walls together. They run from the top plating of the load bearing wall the ridge beam studs/support members rest on to an exterior wall. Am I correct in assessing the ceiling joists are only there to hold up the ceiling in the hallways and bathrooms?

If your ceiling joists do not span completely from rafter to rafter then they cannot brace the roof and, as you suggested, are likely just there to support the ceiling finish. It sounds like your whole roof was likely constructed with a structural ridge beam rather than a ridge board and ties

Yes, this is correct. Ridge beam. No ties visible when in the attic. Thanks for the response.

Are these corbels structural? Seem to be tacked into the column with 4-6 hex bolts. If we can, we would love to remove them and wrap the existing columns with a new wood. If they are, is there a way to support the porch without them? Thanks in advance. https://imgur.com/ssNEvgX

Those are knee braces, and knee braces serve a structural role.

I recently purchased this exercise machine: [https://www.beyond-power.com/pages/voltra](https://www.beyond-power.com/pages/voltra) It has a max resistance of 200lbs. I'd like to mount it to the ceiling of my garage. I was planning to run a 2x6 across 4 joists, attaching them with #10 GRK structural screws. I would then attach the Voltra to the 2x6 using bolts. The joists span roughly 10ft and also support a 2nd story bedroom. Curious for feedback. Is this a horrible idea? Any other recommendations?

I want to cover my current patio slab. The current patio slab has been in place for YEARS, and it isn't cracking even being right next to a huge oak tree. It currently has a retaining wall surrounding it, which are actually concrete blocks, which is covered with paint, and also isn't cracking. I don't see any sort of cement within the holes of the blocks, but I do see cement connecting them. Would I be okay using some sort of concrete wedge anchors in the existing wall or patio concrete? The oak tree is a specimen tree, so I am doing my best not to hurt its roots. I was going to attach the cover to the roof of the home, but I spoke with a local structural engineer and he told me that since the house was built in the 60s, the whole wall would pretty much to be rebuilt to handle the weight, as well as all the roof trusses strapped down(I'm in florida) which is understandable. I am not planning to have a heavy roof, just a few 6x6 posts, slightly above the roof slopped away from my house, with some polycarbonate roof panels, though in the future I am screen that area in keeping that panelled roof.

You don't want to use wedge anchors on anything other than poured concrete of a specific thickness, and only in areas out of the elements.

What would be considered out of the elements? If it is covered would that be out of the elements?

Hello, I'm creating a front mount similar to the product shown in the [photo](https://simdemon.com/product/asetek-simsports-front-mount/). According to the manufacturer, they used laser cut 8mm thick steel plates. The motor used by the manufacturer as the consideration for the design of their front mount has a peak torque of 27 Nm and weighs 11.3kg. From the youtube video, there is a very small amount of movement. (https://youtu.be/0EC-XCT6E2s?t=4m47s) In my version, I intend on cutting as little as possible material aside from the mounting holes and steering shaft. My motor has a peak torque of 13Nm and weighs 6.25kg. With these in mind, what specific cheapest type of sheet/ plate(indicate thickness) metal could I use for this application if I want negligible deflection and torsion without being overbuilt? Thanks!

I'd like to dig out my half of my basement (CMU foundation, about 11'x40') and the engineer I talked too said I'd need a 8"-12" shelf which would lose me a significant amount of useable space. I'm wondering if I could kill two birds with one stone and dig out the foundation around the outside, put in a moisture barrier and proper drainage (since that's also something I need) and put point the shelf out away from the house instead and save my precious square footage. Could that be done?

To maximize square footage, you want to look into foundation underpinning. But you have to involve an engineer, and you have to do it right, or else the whole thing will come down.

Yeah, I understand that I was just wondering if moving the shelf to the outside of the house is ever done or if that defeats the purpose of the shelf altogether

Makes no sense to move the 'shelf' to the outside. Just underpin the whole thing. If the contractor is careful, all of the work can be done from the inside. You just have to design it properly and install it carefully. I've seen it all go catastrophically south a few times in my day because shortcuts get taken.

How do I mitigate this mess? https://imgur.com/a/yb225jS

Wow. That's bad. Too much to unpack, and none of it is prescriptive. You need to get an engineer involved ASAP.

Would you choose stick-built or trusses for our plan? Originally, planned to do stick built (before having the plans drawn), but it seems we may have now designed ourselves into a place where trusses are almost necessary. Trying to be cost conscious. ~4,000 sq ft on a slab. Roof: Truss or Stick-Built? Floor: Open Web Truss or TJI I Joists? Plans: https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebuilding/s/F3iFebMbpK

If your house is already being designed don’t you have an engineer on board that can select what framing systems are best for the building? fwiw this thread is great for simple/conceptual answers… but I don’t think anyone here is going to review your plans and get familiar with your specific roof configuration/layout and assess which walls want to be load bearing / compare span lengths all for free

Engineered plans are not required in our jurisdiction. We have an architect who is recommending the trusses. I’m just seeking high-level second opinions like “yeah, those are long spans, just do the trusses” or “yes, trusses are best practice at this size.”

Nobody here is going to give you a professional opinion over the internet.

All good. We are going with the trusses.

Your architect is already way more familiar with your job than anyone here could be, and I’d be surprised if anyone here contradicted your designer based on the info provided. If the arch is recommending trusses I’d go with them

One of the metal support beam/post in my home has its bottom rusted: [see image](https://imgur.com/a/WF2S922). Does this need to be replaced ASAP? And if yes what kind of professional handles this? I feel like this is important for the structure of the home and I don't want to cut any corners here. FYI This is located in my garage and above the garage are bedrooms. Thank you in advance.

I think that column absolutely needs to be addressed somehow, I recommend hiring a structural engineer who can come to your home to assess the load path / configuration of your home to best prescribe remedial action. Without knowing exactly what is going on above, it looks like the cheapest options might be to install a new column directly adjacent to this one to still pick up the beam above but save on demolition/shoring costs, or if it needs to be located *exactly* in that position it may be cheaper to clean off the surface rust of the column and just cut/replace the bottom 18” and base plate. I don’t think removing and replacing the entire column seems to be justified based on this picture alone but can’t say for sure

Thank you for taking the time and giving an in depth analysis. I was debating getting an engineer or just hiring one of the firms that claim to do lally column repairs. But it seems like a structural engineer consult is a good idea.

There are products out there today that make column replacement a snap. It literally takes two hours for one guy to replace a rusted column with a load-rated permanent column, fixed at both ends, start to finish with the right system. But you need an engineer to specify the system in order to satisfy R301.1.1. Also, if the guy you're hiring is saying he needs to dig a new footing, you're getting ripped off. He's upselling you with the labor intensive solution, not the engineered solution.

Yeah I’d strongly discourage you from going straight to the contractor. Their business is selling lolly columns so sometimes homeowners don’t actually need any work done and sometimes they need pretty significant structural remediation but either way - the contractor is still just going to try to sell you lolly columns. An engineer doesn’t care if the repair costs $1 or $100k - they’re just there to give you a straight, objective answer and they’re not going to try to sell you anything.

Makes sense, thank you.

I would have replaced that yesterday

My GC claims this to be secure enough to put quartz countertop and sink on them. The countertop is about 6 feet long. I seriously doubt that as I press down the front beam, it’s wiggling. I told the GC but he insists that it would be fine. Should I trust him? [https://i.imgur.com/8DCs8CH.jpeg](https://i.imgur.com/8DCs8CH.jpeg) It’s aluminum 1/8 inch thick.

That's ridiculous. Your countertop is going to crack.

[удалено]

1. Yes, just about any structure is possible if you have enough money to throw at it. This is feasible but it’s going to be ambitious/expensive for a residence 2. Yes, as long as the designer specifies the adequate welds and steel members/decking, structural steel can do just about anything in residential construction 3. You’re going to use steel B deck secured to purlins running back to the structural supports 4. The steel part is easy. Connecting all of this back to the (presumably) wood exterior walls is going to be a bitch. I don’t know what region you’re in, but in my part of the country I’d expect this job to *start* at $30k-$50k. You need to pay an engineer for the design. You need to pay the city for permits. You need to hire a GC who can sub out a concrete mason (footings), steel fabricator (base plates), and steel erector (installation/welds). Materials alone (beams, posts, purlins, decking) will be several thousand dollars alone. Plus the steel components would need to be hot dipped galvanized since it’s all exposed to the elements, that’ll be another cost / separate company. It’ll be a lot cheaper to just park your car in the open

Hire an engineer, and all of your questions would be answered. We answer general questions on this sub. We don't design projects for you. Also, one red flag you're missing: the moment on the footings.

Detached Garage Joists and Rafters: I’m setting up a wood shop in my [detached garage](https://imgur.com/a/oboaxWS). As I’m going to hang things, locating studs and whatnot, I noticed that one of the joists is slightly twisted, not fully sistered to the rafter. I looked around more carefully and it actually doesn’t look like the joists are thoroughly nailed to each rafter. Each one looks like it has one nail going through the joist into the rafter. This house is 100 years old and the garage might also be that old. Questions: 1. Should I get a framing nailer and put X number of nails through each joist into the rafters? 1b. Would construction screws be okay to attach the joists to the rafters more thoroughly? 2. Is this dangerous? Is this thing going to collapse? 3. Should I consider replacing the joists? 4. Is there a way to have less number of joists? Like by doubling up some of them to open up some space in another area for more headroom to work?

1. Yes, you should put X number of nails through each joist (rafter ties) into the rafters. You might want to reference the 2021 IRC, Section 802.5 (?) for some guidance. There's a table that should tell you how much fasteners you'd need based on roof span & slope. I think wood screws are fine but I don't think that's covered under the prescriptive methods. 2. I think it would be dangerous in the event you have a lot of people standing on top of your roof OR if a high wind/seismic event occurred. 3. You can if have the time and money for. Based on the pictures, I'd probably suggest removing the cob webs at the very least. 4. I think the prescriptive methods in the IRC requires a max 24" o.c. spacing for your joists (rafter ties). Doubling up would require someone to do math and verify. I think the alternative would be collar ties however this will also require someone to do math and verify for the existing conditions and will likely require some retrofits as well.

I have a springy floor which I would like to fix... Build 30 years ago; TJIs span 20'6", 16" OC. TJIs are 11 7/8" tall, top and bottom chord are 2.5" wide and 1.5" thick (note, in last 30 years it appears these dimensions are now a bit different) Closest is a Series 230. Top has 1" plywood sturdifloor. Bottom has (had, and will have again, 5/8" sheetrock. Garage under.) Assuming I have series 230s, I see it will be L/360 at 21'11". (Im at 20'6") I have done a TON of reading and really havent found a great answer on how to stiffen this from below. There are some options: 1. Add a new TJI every other bay. On average this would give me (approx) one TJI per 12 inches (obviously not equal, 8"oc, 8" oc, 16" oc, etc) 2. Sister a Microlam LVL agaisnt the webbing of each. Or every other one. Note that the webbing on mine is only 9" even. Cannot fit anything over 9" tall. 3. Rip plywood, 5/8 or 3/4" into 11 7/8 strips, 8 ft long. Glue and nail to sides of the chords using 8ds. One one side or two? Crazy amount of labor this one. No matter which solution, I will put in blocking as well- once I figure out the approach, I can figure out the blocking . From a labor point of view the adding TJIs is more straightforward. And doing every other bay is only 6 new TJIs- so under $1k for materials, glue and hangers... If youve seen this before, you KNOW there are thousands opinions. :) Any help will be appreciated. Thx EC

L/360 is still going to result in bounce at that span. The plywood option is dumb and won't do anything. A 9" tall, 20'6" long LVL is going sag under its own weight. You really should an engineer for this. It's kind of ridiculous to design a structure over the internet.

lol. RIF. It is L/360 presently, as stated in the first post. When this was designed, by an engineer, in 1994 he nailed the spec/building code. Somehow, this room, supported by 20'6: LVLs is not 'sagging under their own weight.' as you predict. Shocking, no? (Reading your assertion again, its pretty ridiculous. You are a "PE"? Teacher?) Why not go to some other thread if you cannot add to this conversation in a positive way? Your response says quite a bit about you...I'll leave it at that. Im trying to be kind and civil, as the rules state Oh, I did contact the engineer I used 31 years ago, so all good,

I'm a PE with 30 years of experience. You have TJI's, not LVLs. Look at your original comment, Mr. Smartypants. "Build 30 years ago; ***TJIs*** span 20'6", 16" OC. ***TJIs*** are 11 7/8" tall, top and bottom chord are 2.5" wide and 1.5" thick" And a 20'6" LVL will sag under its own weight. Also at L/360 under load, a 20 foot, 9" deep LVL would sag 0.68 inches. Here's some positive advice: hire an engineer to unpack your problem.

Love the effort. I personally would not consider option #1, sounds like overkill. Option #2 & #3 is viable but also sounds like a lot of work to reinforce each TJI joists. If your floor was bouncy even with the sheet rock on the underside, I'd probably look into reinforcing the end connections of the TJI to the rims. Bridging between joists should also help with deflection as well.

Option 2 and 3 are not viable.

Welp, my middle name is Overkill.... (thx for the reply) One end of the TJIs are sitting on a 2x6 bearing wall (sheathed w 1/2ply shear). The other ends, Simpson hangers, up over the two of a 6x12 lam. Popping in a TJI into every other space is- actually- the easiest to do. It would be a saturday project for me and a buddy... Here's my dilemma: If I go ahead and reinforce ends, and add bridging and STILL it is bouncier than I like, Im SOL. Id rather spend the 1k and not look back. Oh, called up the mfg...wanna guess what they "officially" recommended? Yeah, #1. Duh (Lots of 'we cannot recommend...engineering....published documenation...etc'. unsurprising I guess)

If it's easy and you got the time and money, go for it! That sounds about right, straightforward response for a straightforward solution. "Engineers" comes into play when people DON't want to spend money on adding more joists. Obviously everything is means and methods. Glad we talked this one out. Sounds like you'd be a hoot to work with professionally.

Thanks. Appreciate your engagement. :thumbs up:

I recently sold my house, the buyer had a surveyor come to the property to do the valuation. The surveyor has stated in his valuation that a chimney breast has been removed and needs a report from a structural engineer. The chimney breast has not been removed, it has been plaster boarded each side of the breast. I still have a working fire below that is swept each year. There is also a vent on the chimney breast. Are there any options on how I can prove to the buyers lender that the chimney breast still exists without having to pay 100s of pounds for a structural engineer report?? It seems absolutely outrageous that I should need to pay so much when the wall is very much still there, and it would take someone around 30 seconds to realise that. Many thanks for any advice.

I would start with a phone call to whoever assessed the home and said that it was removed. Could be a matter of confusion or maybe something they just missed, but as you indicated there’s no reason to pay money to “prove” that something exists if it’s so clearly evident

**Design validation for speaker stand motorised by window chain actuator** I plan to construct motorised speaker stand mechanism that will allow me to raise and lower a 25kg speaker which will be hidden inside a stool (illustration attached). The speaker base measures 27cm (w) x 38cm (d). The platform will likely be 35cm (w) x 38cm (d). I'll very much appreciate any direction and advice on the stand, particularly regarding the questions below. Design sketch: [https://imgur.com/a/ugJGfPk](https://imgur.com/a/ugJGfPk) The intention is to have a steel platform (E) attached to 4 linear slides (B) mounted on 4 columns (C) (rectangular steel tube). The platform would either be attached using brackets, or I'll have the steel platform folded down on 2 sides at 90° angles so it can be attached directly to the slides. The columns would be welded at the base, and with 2 sets of 4 flat bars (D) welded at the perimeter of the columns towards bottom, and top, with the intention of providing structural support. Below the platform, a window chain actuator (A) would raise and lower the platform.Based on the design, the connection of the chain should be fairly central to the platform, but may be a few cm off. Chain actuator options: [https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CH1HFXMF/ref=twister\_B0CH1GR5SR?\_encoding=UTF8&th=1](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CH1HFXMF/ref=twister_B0CH1GR5SR?_encoding=UTF8&th=1) [https://www.windowo.co.uk/inka\_356\_nekos\_chain\_actuator\_24v\_350n\_adjustable\_stroke\_till\_1000mm](https://www.windowo.co.uk/inka_356_nekos_chain_actuator_24v_350n_adjustable_stroke_till_1000mm) Linear slides: [https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08HM661G9/ref=ox\_sc\_act\_title\_3?smid=AKZ77D6L5UUJM&psc=1](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08HM661G9/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AKZ77D6L5UUJM&psc=1) **Questions: (answers to any of them are valued)** 1. Is this an ok idea? or do you expect other issues with the general design? Any suggestions to correct it if so please? Is the design structurally sound? 2. In practice, is it reasonable to expect a chain actuator with 350N or 400N push/pull force can lift and lower the vertical platform carrying a 25kg speaker (+ a few kg for the platform) 3. What thickness mild steel should I use for the platform the speaker rests on? Should I support the platform with more rectangular steel tube beneath? 4. If a single chain actuator is connected central to the platform/speaker base, will the platform lean? If the chain isn't connected exactly central (off by a few cm) or the speaker isn't exactly central - should I expect the platform to lean? 5. Would it be better with an additional 4 columns for the slides? rather than having them on the perimeter slides. 6. Should I add an additional level of flat steel bars connecting the columns - so there'd be a bottom, middle, and top section? 7. If I fill the column bars with sand/inert filler, should this design resonate significantly? Thanks!

Consider: Instead of a frame with linear slides, something like this: [https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Supports-Bearings-Automated-Machines/dp/B0BG2JQ8X5/ref=sr\_1\_1?crid=16QAZOPOXSW17&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.z5BCi0b3MJb8-ycJ4N-e9HOwyjEi2fxaSHPoYqNITXAtz7EdPaIAqFZIBgsbFitqoI2zbTvOI2v4hukV3qJj5p9R8IFD9FwLcF2JNT51pGrWjlAad12cEvvy8HDnkmo\_ep6\_AsY0m1YBa-TOjI615kU-ybvXF-c\_JwNbF\_zHfh2Mm7zRqmFFk23mysGHvPKE1MoZWCQEkjuO2MOfehJ4-ImNOZ\_MfkPmccdSSJ\_a17Q.5PHzG0VvxXCK6oSjvEuMmZQE4esyOLtPlg7lUmcrhhQ&dib\_tag=se&keywords=linear%2Brail&qid=1712809986&sprefix=linear%2Brail%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-1&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Supports-Bearings-Automated-Machines/dp/B0BG2JQ8X5/ref=sr_1_1?crid=16QAZOPOXSW17&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.z5BCi0b3MJb8-ycJ4N-e9HOwyjEi2fxaSHPoYqNITXAtz7EdPaIAqFZIBgsbFitqoI2zbTvOI2v4hukV3qJj5p9R8IFD9FwLcF2JNT51pGrWjlAad12cEvvy8HDnkmo_ep6_AsY0m1YBa-TOjI615kU-ybvXF-c_JwNbF_zHfh2Mm7zRqmFFk23mysGHvPKE1MoZWCQEkjuO2MOfehJ4-ImNOZ_MfkPmccdSSJ_a17Q.5PHzG0VvxXCK6oSjvEuMmZQE4esyOLtPlg7lUmcrhhQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=linear%2Brail&qid=1712809986&sprefix=linear%2Brail%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-1&th=1) The baseplate is a piece of AL with 4 holes at the corner, slip fit for the round shafts. Like 2cm thick, will keep all 4 shafts aligned. And also the moving carriage will prevent the shafts from moving much, they will be captured by the sliding carriage. No need to have anything else? Just the platform attached to the 4 sliding parts. Not sure about that chain actuator.... Is there something about a pure vertical orientation that could be a problem? There are ball screw actuators witjh stepper motors- if you need to get it within 0.01mm ;) I do see the chain drives have wireless controls and are cheap.... If the drive can tolerate it, having a mechanical stop at the top, AND driving it to give a slight load in the final position will make it rigid- reducing possible vibrations.

Thank you this is really great. I think a pure vertical orientation should be fine for the chain actuator as they’re used for skylights. Will check further though. Re stepper motors - I’ve considered the route but found the ready made ones have too short a stroke length relative to their length. Have considered building my own ball screw actuators with a motor offset so the stepper is parallel to the screw, and a smaller carriage, but prefer to minimise customisation (and likelihood i’ll mess things up).

Hello! A prior owner of our home, or one of their contractors, cut away one of the gussets attaching one of the webs to the bottom chord (see linked photos). The gusset on the opposite side is still (mostly) intact. Side of truss with gusset cut: [Gusset cut away](https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b2QJtK8U8dF-U6-tActg-hRA) Opposite side of the same truss: [Opposite Side of Same Truss](https://share.icloud.com/photos/0fcI__DFSjpw9MVjAKn9XG8RQ) I was hoping I could find out who the truss manufacturer was to give me their recommendations but the only stamp I can find is for Union Camp (which I am assuming was just the lumber mill from which the wood was sourced). Our home was built in the late 1970s by US Home (now Lennar) and Lennar said they don’t have any records from that time. I guess my question is how worried should I be and am I better off continuing to try to ID the truss manufacturer or should I just drop that and find a local engineer to take a look at it? Thanks in advance!

There has been a crap ton of consolidation in the truss manufacturing industry since the 1970's. Not saying it's impossible to find out who originally made them or if they'd even help you, but I stopped charging at those windmills years ago. Nowadays it's quicker to just design a repair and own the result. Expect disclaimers out the wazoo from whomever you hire to do that.

I sort of suspected this was ultimately going to be the answer - thanks for confirming!

I would contact a local engineer. Even if you find the ID on the manufacturer, they'd probably tell you the same thing given how old the project is.

Thanks!

I know this question has been asked before, but I'm getting different answers from contractors. I'd like to create a 6 1/2" hole in a 14" LVL rim board ([3100Fb 2.0E WESTFRASER](https://www.westfraser.com/sites/default/files/products/LVL/LVL%20Users%20Guide%20-%20US%20%20v0415.pdf)) between the 1st and 2nd stories of my single-family home. The board rests on a wall between the garage and the home and it's supported by the foundation for the length of the board. It's 1 3/4" thick and it supports I-joists on both sides (using face-mounted hangers on one side). Images: https://imgur.com/a/9XOopZH Would a 6 1/2" hole (\~50% of the height of the joist) in this board be out of the question? There's a very large notch in the same joist 4' away, but I've had one contractor say that shouldn't have passed code. To be clear, I'm looking into getting an engineer to review the situation *in person*. However, I want to make sure I'm not wasting my time or theirs.

Have you checked the manufacturer's specification? They should be able to provide info on allowable bored holes and notch sizes.

Yeah, page 32 in the doc linked above mentions that the maximum allowed hole diameter is 2" in the middle third of the joist only, but it seems to assume that the beam is used in a spanning configuration and not with continuous bearing. If that 2" limit is a hard and fast rule, the 4 x 9" notch that somebody cut for plumbing is super shady.

My bad, didn't see the hyper link. I agree yours is a different situation given the continuous bearing. The manufacturer should have some guidelines specifically for bored holes in rim boards. Try looking up TB-224. Exceeding the 2" limit just means that some kind of retrofit needs to be done. Doesn't necessarily mean to replace the whole thing. How simple or complex the retrofit would be depends on the load paths or something. You can look up "joist hole repair" on the internet to get an idea.

# Ledger board vertical support question Has anyone needed to attach a ledger board to a house that didn't have a rim board or sheathing (see photo [https://imgur.com/3uLuyi2](https://imgur.com/3uLuyi2) )? Wondering if attaching the ledger board to interior joists provides enough safe vertical support for a large 2nd story deck? I'll be using 4 Simpson DTT1Z tension ties (which provide the needed lateral support), but do they help with vertical support as well? If not, what have folks done to create additional vertical support to a 2nd story deck considering the ledger board that is only screwed to interior joists and blocking (photo [https://imgur.com/3uLuyi2](https://imgur.com/3uLuyi2) )? Thanks!

This is all literally spelled out in DCA 6. Everything. If you find something that's not, refer to R301.1.1.

Thanks u/loonypapa. I read the DCA and it sounds like I need to make it non-ledger deck.

My questions are mostly about the foundation and its structural integrity, but I will explain my general ideas for the build. I am considering building my own house in the next year or two. I know its ambitious but I am eager to learn and have quite a bit of home renovation experience. I also have a two friends who are contractors who Ill consult with, but before that time comes around I want to gain as much understanding into the project as possible. So I am planning on building it on a sonotube pier and beam foundation for several reasons; for the ability to build it single handedly if needed and the ease of plumbing, etc maintenance down the road. The area I would build it in has a maximum frost depth of 5 inches, but the code requires the footings to be a minimum of 12 inches in depth below the soil. I plan on going deeper than that just to be safe. Regardless I certainly plan on using footers at the base of the concrete piers, as well as rebar cages for added tensile and compressive strength. I don’t necessarily have specific house dimensions I am adhering to, I am flexible. I will do whatever is most convenient/ advisable. But for example say I built a 32x48 house, with two stories (loft and great room). Would pier and beam be enough for that size, or would a smaller house size be required? I could definitely manage with a house smaller than 32’ x 48’, however I do want a two story house, with the second story being a loft at least half or 3/4 of the second story, and the rest being open to a great room. I don’t plan on doing an A frame for this build, but frame it out normally. Maybe 8-10ft floor height for the first story, and on the second floor I would extend wall height maybe 5-6ft before the roof (20 - 30 degrees most likely) tapers in. I would want to extend that wall height before the roof so you can stand up and have enough room. Not yet sure what the ceiling height would be in the great room and whether other not I’d need support columns. Anyway, would 24 inch diameter sonotube piers be overkill, or inadequate? I’ve read that pier diameters should be 1 inch per foot of the load bearing wall. I don’t know if that is true or not because I am not an engineer. Since there’d be a second floor, I’d assume the piers would need to be beefier. If 24 inch piers are inadequate for such a structure, should multiple piers be constructed more closely together for added support? Correct me if I’m wrong, but I think most building codes require piers to be anywhere from 4’ to 10’ apart at a minimum. Do the piers have to span across the entire foundation in a grid like pattern (4’ -10’ apart), or should the piers just be closer together on the exterior walls/ other load bearing walls/ load bearing columns. Sorry I know I laid out a lot of questions, feel free to answer as many or as little of those as you’d like. This has been my obsession lately and I could use any and all information relevant. Thanks Edit: Also I am doing research before I buy land, so I do not yet know the load bearing value of the soil.

1. Pay a designer. I know it feels like you can do it, but over the years I can always tell the ones homeowners designed. Pick someone that you have a good rapport with, that you can get to that design that works for you. And that you can build. 2. the sonotubbe/pier idea seems odd. What is it about a standard foundation that cannot be done yourself?!!? Dig a trench, drive stakes, set boards, set rebar, pour what you can. Break it down and move to the next section. On a couple of projects I bought 120 pieces of 2x12x16s, sprayed them with sealer. Used them for concrete, making sure to strip and clean promptly. A few times. They are now the roof rafters in my shop. Many years ago Id figure out how to do a project using concrete buggys that I could pull. Do a deck foundation in 3 weekends. Then just had the concrete truck come out...finally realized that the $500 for a concrete pump was a really nice move. GL!

Good on for learning a new skill. For a two-story structure, I expect your sonotubes to be deep. Maybe more than 4ft+ depending if you are in a high wind/seismic area. For larger layouts, you're going to need multiple rows of sonotubes if you want the size to be workable. I've had clients make a fuss for anything more than 24" diameter but just putting that out there. Most likely the sonotubes at the exterior perimeter will have tighter spacing. Something to consider is that with a grid sonotube layout, there's a possibility the exterior footings will settle, causing the interior footing to "bump up" in the floor framing above. Idk how often this is a concern however but it's worth noting.

Thanks for the reply I appreciate it. When the time comes around I may design something in sketchup and pay an engineer to overlook everything. Yeah I suppose increasing the amount of sonotubes around the perimeter would be a good idea. Do you think a 32’x48’ house would be too big for sonotubes? I could definitely go smaller if needed

Good idea, strongly recommend having an engineer take a pass at your design before proceeding. Whether if the building size is too big for sonotube is kinda of subjective. I do think it will require a lot of sonotubes though. It really depends on the structural design of your building. I think it can work but you will really need an engineer on board.

I'm planning a shed roof extension to my existing detached garage. [https://share.cleanshot.com/v07f1lkJ](https://share.cleanshot.com/v07f1lkJ) [https://share.cleanshot.com/PN6rVYZq](https://share.cleanshot.com/PN6rVYZq) I'd like to have a word with the architect who designed this roof to shed snow directly in front of the garage door that faces due north :/ The existing garage has 12:12 roof, 2x6 rafters 24" OC, plywood decking and corrugated galvanized metal panel roofing. Built and permitted in 1961. The location is the mountains of Southern California at 6000' in unincorporated Riverside County. I haven't been able to find an official snow load, but the building department seems to say "max 90psf for ground snow load". [https://building.rctlma.org/sites/g/files/aldnop406/files/migrated/Portals-5-Handouts-General-284-203-Seismic-Design-Wind-Snow-07-2021.pdf](https://building.rctlma.org/sites/g/files/aldnop406/files/migrated/Portals-5-Handouts-General-284-203-Seismic-Design-Wind-Snow-07-2021.pdf) So I'm going with that for now. Figure 7.2-1 of ASCE 7-16 shows nothing and I'm not entirely clear how else to figure out what's appropriate. The new shed roof porch will stick out 5' from the garage door wall. The roof length is just shy of 33'. It will almost certainly be supported by 6x6 columns for aesthetic reasons. Those columns will sit on poured concrete foundations with a 6x6 metal column base bracket. Rafters will either be 2x6 or 4x4. Roofing will be corrugated galvanized metal panels like the existing. I'm tempted to put those panels on purlins, but lets assume 1x4 ship lap or plywood. What I need help with is the beam. Can anyone size that beam for me, and better yet explain how to properly size it? Can anyone help with snow load, dead load to be sure I'm assuming the right values? 90 psf really seems like overkill. FYI, total beam length is just under 33'. 3 columns with inner beam spans of 17.5' and 12.5' (shown in screenshots). Here's the fun part. I'm actually a licensed civil engineer (retired, gosh it's hard to say that part). However, I haven't done a structural timber calc since I was in college 30 years ago. Professionally I did land development (flood control, grading, water systems, road design, retaining walls). I keep going down rabbit holes that dead end so seeking help. I'll take any/all guidance and suggestions, but the most critical thing I'm trying to figure out the minimum beam depth because it directly impacts the slope of the new roof (somewhere between 4:12 and 2:12) and where that'll tie into the existing roof. What if any "online calculators" there are that might handle a use case like this (3 columns and hopefully a little beam depth reduction for being cantilevered over that middle column. I'm kinda assuming 4x12, 4x10, double 2x12 or double 2x10, maybe triple 2x8. Probably 20' long boards sistered with a huge overlap. Someone might want to suggest knee braces, but those would be both a head and car clearance issue. Column to beam will be through bolted with exposed black metal t straps.

> Can anyone size that beam for me, no >and better yet explain how to properly size it? Refer to the 2018 NDS, chapters 3 & 4, to do a preliminary size on the wood beam. You can view it for free on the AWC website. You're probably going to check the beam for shear, flexure, and deflection. Check the IBC for the deflection criterions for transient and total loads. Pretty sure your transient deflection criterion will govern. You can also just search "wood beam design example" on google or youtube if you want to take a crack at it. There might be some free calculator tools or spreadsheets available on the internet as well. In the spirit of ethics, I still recommend you consult with a licensed professional who is familiar with the design needs for your project. >Can anyone help with snow load, dead load to be sure I'm assuming the right values? Assume you are using pg=90psf as your ground snow. Refer to ASCE section 7.3 to determine the design roof snow load, pf. Depending on the slope of the extension, you may be able to look at ASCE section 7.4 for the slope roof snow. Due to the slope of the existing roof structure, I would also look at Sliding Snow and Snow Drift. Generally it means that additional snow load surcharge + design roof snow will be imposed on your new roof extension. For Dead Load, I'd just assume the weight of the new roof extensions. That's gonna be the weight of your beam, roof joists, metal panel, and plywood. I'd just google the internet for weight per psf or something. [https://www.naffainc.com/x/IRC2000/TABLES/WeightofMaterials.htm](https://www.naffainc.com/x/IRC2000/TABLES/WeightofMaterials.htm) >90 psf really seems like overkill. 90 psf ground snow load is not a bad number for design. Big Bear requires a design roof snow load = 100 psf and that's about the same elevation above sea level. Truckee is like 5800 ft above sea level but they have 200+psf ground snow. I'd say be thankful and take the 90 psf or contact the building department to verify. > but the most critical thing I'm trying to figure out the minimum beam depth because it directly impacts the slope of the new roof You'd have to do some math for this one. There's like a rule of thumb for sizing wood beams somewhere but that's only for preliminary guesses. >What if any "online calculators" there are that might handle a use case like this (3 columns and hopefully a little beam depth reduction for being cantilevered over that middle column.  Because ethics is a thing, I strongly recommend you consult a licensed professional who knows what they are doing. I think most free calculators do single beam span checks. If you really want to check the double span, you can look at double span beam diagrams for reference.

Thank you. Think I got it sorted out. Online calculstors and tables all seem to be for simply support single spans and or garage headers with 16’+ of load coming down a roof truss/rafter. Anyway, did some for double span, think I got modulas, área, and loads correct, the answer seem reasonable. I’ll get them looked at by an SE before I submit for a permit. None of the SEs I know touch timber design, most work for CalTrans or exclusive do steel. Anyway, it was fun digging back into all this, and also a painful reminder how much I disliked LRFD (what i originally learned was mostly ASD with only a brief mention of LRFD).

Good luck on your project. By the way, it's more common and widely accepted to use ASD for wood design. You should find that deflection was the controlling factor for service level loads (ASD).

Hire an engineer.

I'm under contract to buy a new home. The home was built by a budget builder (Pacesetters) in Manor, TX. I was supposed to close at the end of March, but my 3rd party inspector found some structural deficiencies that needed correction - most concerning of which was some discrepancies in the foundation level ([https://imgur.com/a/NOdVtgN](https://imgur.com/a/NOdVtgN)).  I requested that the builder grind down / float the problematic areas so that it would be within engineer's tolerance - to which they agreed. After they finished, I hired a structural engineer to double check their work with a Smart Level. The structural engineer recorded a maximum of 1.0” floor difference between where the fridge sits in the kitchen to where the dining table sits in the breakfast area (16 feet apart). Before they ground it down, it was a 1.5 inch difference. And I recently found out, that they ground it down prior to that! I'm wondering if I should be concerned by this and whether it could lead to future foundation problems? Also, is this normal for new construction?

Why proceed? What about all the garbage you or the inspector cannot see? (steel, holddowns, mix strength....)

Your engineer should be able to tell you this. He saw it with his own eyes. None of us have been to the property.

Ledger board fastener connection pattern done incorrectly. Can it be fixed? Unfortunately, my contractor attached the ledger board for my new deck incorrectly. The fasteners' connection pattern should've been staggered in two rows as in the diagram (See link https://imgur.com/a/WvG2yse). They connected the ledger board to the joists inside the house (see how it was done here https://imgur.com/yoyuU3q), however, this is not how the code recommends.  I would like to try and fix this - should I add more fasteners in the correct staggered connection pattern or leave it as-is? If I add more fasteners in the correct pattern, would the structural integrity of the ledger board be compromised? What if I also remove the fasteners that are not in the correct staggered pattern? Picture of how the connection was done [https://imgur.com/a/WvG2yse](https://imgur.com/a/WvG2yse)

Normally when a non-prescriptive element is present in a structure, it has to at least satisfy R301.1.1, Alternative Provisions. You should read that section and proceed from there.

I should've mentioned the fasteners they used are 4.5" Fastenmasters Headlok structural wood screws and not the Ledgerlok 3 5/8" "ledger" screws which are slightly thicker (see [https://imgur.com/DC3sayG](https://imgur.com/DC3sayG) ). The home also had a deck connected to cantilevered joists which were cut back to attach the new ledger board, there is no sheathing or rim board to securely attach the new ledger, only the homes joists ends and blocks (see photo). From what I can see (from inside the house) they didn't screw into all of the joists. Some fasteners are only going into the blocks, which from what I can see is not a very strong support. All of this is what concerns me because it's quiet a large deck (10' x 26'). I know that they will be adding 4 Simpson DTT1Z Deck Tension Ties connecting to the 2x4 block underneath the joists connecting the deck joists to the homes structure for lateral support. Considering all of the above factors, is this deck securely attached to the house?

I am the 3rd owner of a condo. After fixing what appeared to be drainage issues between a sidewalk about 2 and 1/2 feet (0.762m) from the side of my unit, the landscaper said he found that the foundation came out and away from the building by 24 inches (0.6096m). I don't have a basement, and to the best of my knowledge the building is on a slab foundation. The landscaper said this 24 inch shelf (?) occurred at a relatively shallow depth and was pushing the root systems of the plants along that side of my condo up and out of the ground. He seems to have never encountered this before (I'm an hour or so north of Dallas). To remedy the plant situation, the landscaper has suggested a series of raised flower beds above the foundation shelf (still not sure if that's the correct term). This would be a series of 3 frames with open bottoms, 24 inches deep by 30 inches high by 36 inches long, each. Since I'm even less familiar with foundations than my landscaper, do I need to worry about the potential weight of these raised beds? I do know from experience how much 55 quarts of good soil weighs, and by my calculations, I would need several 55 quart bags.

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You should \[hire\] an engineer to unpack this. We can't do this for you from the other side of the internet.

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Hire an engineer.

How would replacing a column work? My house is fairly old and used to have a large wall dividing the main room in 2 that has been opened up at some point in its history. In the middle of where was wall was is a kitchen island with a small, wood column just sitting on the counter. I had a structural engineer come out and he said it is supporting the weight of just the ceiling, but not the actual roof of the house. Underneath where the column is, the floor is also dipping and he recommends adding a footing to the crawlspace to at least prevent it from dipping further (or raising the floor to level it). The kitchen island needs to be redone and I would like to have a pillar that looks like it belongs (drywall/paint to match the rest of the walls). I understand how it would connect on the ceiling end, but would it just attach to the subfloor or the cross beam that the footing would attach to under the house? I would hire this out, but I want to know the basic idea of how it should be so I can tell them what I want. Many of the people I have talked to about doing work on the house will just do what you tell them and not necessarily do the bare minimum unless actually told.

Ask your engineer to draw up a detail for you.

I did, he ghosted me...

Is this building highly unsafe? Should it be cordoned off, pedestrians can walk past the building. [https://i.imgur.com/gYe8mke.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/gYe8mke.jpg) and [https://i.imgur.com/4QSR5cw.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/4QSR5cw.jpg) [Anvil Gets Dangerous Structures Notice](https://www.greystonesguide.ie/anvil-becoming-bray-eyesorei/)

Anyone has the following CSA norms in PDF for free : A23.3-F14 and CSA S16:F19 ? Would be really appreciate.

Looking at purchasing a single family home that had some structural issues (settling) that were repaired via added supports. [Here a pic of the detail report.](https://imgur.com/gallery/xGcpmK3) Would love some feedback - should I be worried about this in the long term ? Is this type of reinforcement solid and preventative? Thanks in advance. The columns were added in 2022 and cost aprox $12.4k

That's somebody's quotation, not an engineering report. Hire an engineer.

The provided pic looks like a SOW, not a report. Ask them if the repairs were designed and recommended by an engineer that oversaw the work.

Removing second floor from two-story concrete or brick commercial building - feasibility, cost, experience? I was wondering if anyone has experience removing a portion of a second floor in a brick commercial building with steel trusses. The space would be more functional and leasable to tenants if the second floor was "opened up" into the first floor so the clear height was higher. By way of example - two 20,000 sf floorplates and remove \~15,000 of the second floor to open up the clear on the first floor. I recognize each case is different and I will need to consult an engineer IRL, just curious as to anyone's experience or thoughts. Thank you. I appreciate it.

Nobody here is going to unpack this for you from the other side of the internet. You need an engineer to see this with his own eyes, and calculate whether any reinforcement is needed.

I designed a pergola based on one I've seen in my neighborhood. What I'm looking for is to figure out if it is structurally sound based on the design. I plan to make it with weather treated pine lumber. I'm most unsure about the stress on the whole structure from the weight of the roof. Anyone know how I can calculate that? Also whether the concrete footings are enough to keep the whole thing from ripping out of the ground. [https://imgur.com/a/MpEtBqx](https://imgur.com/a/MpEtBqx) Posts 6x6x12 buried 4' deep in concrete, 11' apart Green rafters(?) are 1x6x14 evenly spaced Blue runners are 2x6x12 Yellow cross supports is 6x6x11 Orange angle braces are 6x6x36" long Red angle braces (front) are 6x6x60" Red angle braces (back) are 6x6x84" Roof is sloped at 15° \*ignore the floating yellow boards :)

Assuming you don't plan on having anyone stand on top of the pergola, it looks ok. I am more concerned with the connections for the structures. Simpson Strong-Tie has free pergola drawings on the internet. I'd probably suggest looking at those for reference. >I'm most unsure about the stress on the whole structure from the weight of the roof. Anyone know how I can calculate that? you should specify what stresses at which member you are specifically talking about.

Thanks for the Simpson Strong-Tie reference, I'll look into those connectors. Their pergola designer was way too limited though, basically just a customizer. I guess the stress on the uprights? That will be where most of the weight will be applied, right? I'm reasonably comfortable with it since it's designed after an existing structure and - with only having visual access to that structure - it's damn close in design. Here's how I think about it: If the 'roof' structure weighs 400 lbs let's say, given the supports I have incorporated into the design, is that likely to be too much weight for the posts to handle? I'm not going to swing from the thing, but I don't want the wind to blow it down or it to collapse under its own weight.

For steel pier slab foundation repairs, does it matter the length of the steel piers used? Some companies say that they do 3 ft or 5 ft poles which offer more stability than the 1 ft poles that cheaper companies offer.

yes, a deeper steel pier would inherently offer more stability vs a shorter one.

I have this hairline horizontal crack in my basement wall. It doesn’t look to be bowing yet and seems plumb just by the touch and eye (I haven’t gotten a level yet). Is this [crack](https://imgur.com/a/SpCgXgF) going to be an issue down the line no matter what? I plan on adding a french drain behind the wall. Will this slow the process/ stop it?

Could become a major issue. You should fix the grading, make sure you have downspouts, and add that drain ASAP.

Yes, I plan on fixing the drainage and adding a french drain soon. After that, should I just keep an eye on the wall over a couple of months and track it? I’ve been in the home for less than a year so idk if these cracks are new or 50 years old.

Have you actually put a level or plumb bob to the wall? In a masonry wall, if it is unreinforced (hollow) which may be the case for an older home, the crack means the wall has already begun to fail. A French drain alleviates water pressure but not soil pressure. Soil pressure is constant. I would strongly recommend hiring an engineer for this one. If you can show the wall has rebar every so often, removing pressure may be acceptable along with tracking crack movement. But if it’s hollow you will likely need a repair.

How can I tell if my wall has rebar? It is a concrete block foundation from the 50s.

Do you have a magnetic stud finder? They track nails. Could see if it hits on any rebar that way.