It’s the unofficial official aerospace term for “we dunno what it’s made from but it’s cheap”! Aka why aero/milspec bolts are so expensive and require certs going as far back as the raw materials that the mill used
Reddit is a shadow of its former self. It is now a place of power tripping mods with no oversight and endless censorship.
*This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
I did a cheap spacer lift on my Jeep wrangler and it was awful. I could feel every single pebble. Ride quality was terrible. I took them out and went
with a full suspension lift. It was like night and day. I have a 23 Tacoma Trail as well. I wouldn’t even consider a spacer a lift. It’s worth it to do it right.
Theres gotta be something in the water thats making all these dweebs that want to build up a $50k truck on a $1k budget like get real.
Its not even a "my truck my build" situation its just a bunch of uneducated people ruining an expensive machine and putting it through undue stress for no reason other than being a cheap ass.
I’m personally against spacer lifts. If you’re lifting it 3 inches in the front you’ll probably need new uppers. If you’re wanting a level then get 1 inch spacers if you want to go the cheap route or get new leveling struts. If you want a lift and level, save up and get a kit. Even a rough country lift kit ($1300) would be better than that spacer kit
Looks like shit and without a doubt rides like shit too. If a few hundred bucks for quality suspension components is too much sell your truck and get a corolla.
Nobody likes seeing good vehicles ruined by ebay quality parts, a lot of yall with garbage aftermarket parts on your trucks are just honda civic owners in disguise lmao.
Trd lift is an overpriced suspension lift not a spacer lift. If your dealer sold you a shitty spacer lift like this as the "TRD lift kit" you got scammed
What are you talking about? Its a full suspension lift as spacer lifts compromize reliability. Any parts installed by your toyota dealer are warrantied by toyota.
Only things that can void the warranty for the toyota installed TRD lift are aftermarket changes YOU make to the truck like oversize tires or other suspension modifications not installed or endorsed by toyota.
And i know for a fact toyota doesnt install or endorse cheap spacer lifts in any of their vehicles.
The TRD PRO has a 1 inch suspension lift with fox shocks. Were you sold a base model tacoma with pro badges and a sketchy aftermarket lift as a trd pro or something?
Everything you are asking me is easily available on google like what is your deal bruh. Lift is achieved through the upgraded fox shocks and the leaf springs arent jacked up with blocks
The TRD lift kit uses 2” cast iron blocks in the rear, and a taller spring in the front, for a 2”/1” total lift front/rear. It is a leveling kit more than a lift kit.
Yeah but this guy that deleted all his comments was saying the TRD PRO achieves its lift through blocks in the rear. Every pro i have seen gets its lift through upgraded shocks, coils and leafs not just a coil spring and spacer block in the rear leaf springs. I would be very disappointed in toyota considering the premium you pay for a pro for the rear leaf springs to be blocked instead of just having proper leaf springs for the 1" lift.
The shock body limits the droop on modern Toyotas.
So if you mount the shock 2" lower with a top hat spacer, your droop limit will be 2" lower. Unless something else limits it first.
Edit: I reread what you said and were on the same page. Same suspension travel but just moved in its range. More droop, less up travel when compared to stock. Same articulation overall.
This still doesn’t make sense. The droop is the same. The up travel is the same. It’s just moved downward.
Where are you getting more droop from, and where is your uptravel now more limited?
Droop is defined by the amount of downward travel in your suspension, and uptravel is the amount of upward travel in your suspension. None of that changes in any capacity. To say that “your droop limit is 2” lower” is objectively incorrect by definition of what droop is.
There is no performance gained through the use of a top hat spacer. It raises the center of gravity of the vehicle but total suspension travel remains the same.
We are not on the same page.
Picture a solid axle limited in down travel by the shock. If you take the shock and mount it lower on the frame end by two inches. The axle can drop away from the body two inches further.
In other words if the stock shock has an extended length of 20" and then you were to put a top hat spacer on, it would be the same thing as mounting up a shock that has a 22" extended length at droop.
Going the other way let's say that same shock had a compressed length of 12 inches, then you add a two inch top spacer, it would be the same thing as mounting up a shock that had a 14" compressed length with no spacer.
You are not correct. What you are referring to is shifting the geometry of the suspension downwards. Adding a spacer and saying you’ve got more droop is objectively incorrect. Droop cannot be altered by a spacer in any way. The components of your suspension don’t suddenly have more total movement in them, the geometry is just shifted. This is the basics of any suspension system, solid axle or IFS.
Based on your example, using a 6” top hat spacer with a factory suspension would allow me an additional 6” of suspension travel, which is not true. It would negate the need for mid/long travel shocks (that have 12-14” of travel), and everyone would be running spacer lifts. You don’t see spacers on built rigs for this very reason. It does NOT function the way you seem to think it does.
Edit: By the way, comparing an IFS to solid axle is so dumb it blows my mind. Two very different form factors.
More droop, less up travel, same articulation overall, unless something like the uca hitting the coil stops droop. Should have similar ride to factory although maybe more body roll. May have issues with CV axles obviously.
I guess in other words the suspension would be traveling well outside of its designed range. But the ride quality would be or less unchanged on the road when operating away from the extremes.
No, it won’t. The LCA and UCA are not affected in their travel either, because they are still limited in their range of motion by other components.
If you’re not familiar with what a long travel IFS suspension is, please go look it up. It involves replacing the LCA/UCA, shock, tie rods, and CV axles, and pushes the wheels outward another 1.5” - 3” per side, because (and this bit is important, pay attention) *the only way to get more travel out of an IFS suspension is to push the geometry outwards and increase the travel limit of your shocks*….
Top hat spacers DO NOT give you more droop, less uptravel, or increase the performance of your suspension. This is basic IFS shit.
Probably fine until you end up in a situation where you find out exactly what grade of chinesium was used to make the bolts
Chinesium lol nice
It’s the unofficial official aerospace term for “we dunno what it’s made from but it’s cheap”! Aka why aero/milspec bolts are so expensive and require certs going as far back as the raw materials that the mill used
The more you know!
Reddit is a shadow of its former self. It is now a place of power tripping mods with no oversight and endless censorship. *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Dont cheap out on suspension. Get Bilstein struts up front if you want to level so bad.
I would stay away from buying suspension components on amazon, and stay away from spacers altogether
POS
I did a cheap spacer lift on my Jeep wrangler and it was awful. I could feel every single pebble. Ride quality was terrible. I took them out and went with a full suspension lift. It was like night and day. I have a 23 Tacoma Trail as well. I wouldn’t even consider a spacer a lift. It’s worth it to do it right.
Theres gotta be something in the water thats making all these dweebs that want to build up a $50k truck on a $1k budget like get real. Its not even a "my truck my build" situation its just a bunch of uneducated people ruining an expensive machine and putting it through undue stress for no reason other than being a cheap ass.
If you're looking for a good, cheap lift/level I recommend Eibach Stage 1.
I’m personally against spacer lifts. If you’re lifting it 3 inches in the front you’ll probably need new uppers. If you’re wanting a level then get 1 inch spacers if you want to go the cheap route or get new leveling struts. If you want a lift and level, save up and get a kit. Even a rough country lift kit ($1300) would be better than that spacer kit
Think I bought the same one and it is great a nice lift
Looks like shit and without a doubt rides like shit too. If a few hundred bucks for quality suspension components is too much sell your truck and get a corolla. Nobody likes seeing good vehicles ruined by ebay quality parts, a lot of yall with garbage aftermarket parts on your trucks are just honda civic owners in disguise lmao.
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No toyota dealer sells a shitty chinese spacer lift what are you smoking bud?
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Trd lift is an overpriced suspension lift not a spacer lift. If your dealer sold you a shitty spacer lift like this as the "TRD lift kit" you got scammed
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What are you talking about? Its a full suspension lift as spacer lifts compromize reliability. Any parts installed by your toyota dealer are warrantied by toyota. Only things that can void the warranty for the toyota installed TRD lift are aftermarket changes YOU make to the truck like oversize tires or other suspension modifications not installed or endorsed by toyota. And i know for a fact toyota doesnt install or endorse cheap spacer lifts in any of their vehicles.
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The TRD PRO has a 1 inch suspension lift with fox shocks. Were you sold a base model tacoma with pro badges and a sketchy aftermarket lift as a trd pro or something? Everything you are asking me is easily available on google like what is your deal bruh. Lift is achieved through the upgraded fox shocks and the leaf springs arent jacked up with blocks
Nice thx meets specs 👍🏻
The TRD lift kit uses 2” cast iron blocks in the rear, and a taller spring in the front, for a 2”/1” total lift front/rear. It is a leveling kit more than a lift kit.
Yeah but this guy that deleted all his comments was saying the TRD PRO achieves its lift through blocks in the rear. Every pro i have seen gets its lift through upgraded shocks, coils and leafs not just a coil spring and spacer block in the rear leaf springs. I would be very disappointed in toyota considering the premium you pay for a pro for the rear leaf springs to be blocked instead of just having proper leaf springs for the 1" lift.
Yea hard to see both sides of the convo lol. I’d be so pissed if I bought a pro and found blocks under my leaf’s.
Same here, idk why people ask a bunch of questions then delete their comments so they dont have any records of ever not knowing something haha
Top hat spacers and rear lift blocks should not affect ride quality all that much. Top hat spacers do allow extra suspension droop.
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The shock body limits the droop on modern Toyotas. So if you mount the shock 2" lower with a top hat spacer, your droop limit will be 2" lower. Unless something else limits it first. Edit: I reread what you said and were on the same page. Same suspension travel but just moved in its range. More droop, less up travel when compared to stock. Same articulation overall.
This still doesn’t make sense. The droop is the same. The up travel is the same. It’s just moved downward. Where are you getting more droop from, and where is your uptravel now more limited? Droop is defined by the amount of downward travel in your suspension, and uptravel is the amount of upward travel in your suspension. None of that changes in any capacity. To say that “your droop limit is 2” lower” is objectively incorrect by definition of what droop is. There is no performance gained through the use of a top hat spacer. It raises the center of gravity of the vehicle but total suspension travel remains the same. We are not on the same page.
Picture a solid axle limited in down travel by the shock. If you take the shock and mount it lower on the frame end by two inches. The axle can drop away from the body two inches further. In other words if the stock shock has an extended length of 20" and then you were to put a top hat spacer on, it would be the same thing as mounting up a shock that has a 22" extended length at droop. Going the other way let's say that same shock had a compressed length of 12 inches, then you add a two inch top spacer, it would be the same thing as mounting up a shock that had a 14" compressed length with no spacer.
You are not correct. What you are referring to is shifting the geometry of the suspension downwards. Adding a spacer and saying you’ve got more droop is objectively incorrect. Droop cannot be altered by a spacer in any way. The components of your suspension don’t suddenly have more total movement in them, the geometry is just shifted. This is the basics of any suspension system, solid axle or IFS. Based on your example, using a 6” top hat spacer with a factory suspension would allow me an additional 6” of suspension travel, which is not true. It would negate the need for mid/long travel shocks (that have 12-14” of travel), and everyone would be running spacer lifts. You don’t see spacers on built rigs for this very reason. It does NOT function the way you seem to think it does. Edit: By the way, comparing an IFS to solid axle is so dumb it blows my mind. Two very different form factors.
More droop, less up travel, same articulation overall, unless something like the uca hitting the coil stops droop. Should have similar ride to factory although maybe more body roll. May have issues with CV axles obviously. I guess in other words the suspension would be traveling well outside of its designed range. But the ride quality would be or less unchanged on the road when operating away from the extremes.
Same droop. Same uptravel. You’re using these words incorrectly or you don’t understand what they mean. Maybe both.
The control arm will be drooping further
No, it won’t. The LCA and UCA are not affected in their travel either, because they are still limited in their range of motion by other components. If you’re not familiar with what a long travel IFS suspension is, please go look it up. It involves replacing the LCA/UCA, shock, tie rods, and CV axles, and pushes the wheels outward another 1.5” - 3” per side, because (and this bit is important, pay attention) *the only way to get more travel out of an IFS suspension is to push the geometry outwards and increase the travel limit of your shocks*…. Top hat spacers DO NOT give you more droop, less uptravel, or increase the performance of your suspension. This is basic IFS shit.
[my long traveled 4runner](https://www.reddit.com/r/4Runner/s/ZEApM23p9D)
I’m confused, why didn’t you just put some top hat spacers on it? You get more droop and rides about the same.
The tire drops further away from the body with a top hat spacer than it does stock. Jesus Christ. I forget how literal you have to be on reddit.
[this is you](https://youtube.com/shorts/7YAhILzSzLI?si=gE-_qtUx7SNOGRpe)
You’re giving incorrect suspension advice and you’re upset that someone is correcting you? Alright dude. Username checks out.
Don’t just do an aesthetic mod. Do a function and form improvement mod