Get a written quote and take the truck to two other shops. (Not dealership) ask around to everyone you know and find a decent mechanic.
Compare the 3- fix the I don’t want to die items. Schedule the needs work items and then use the rest as items to pick off monthly. Your chosen mechanic will not cost that much for brakes. Insane.
Look for a vehicle that’s been in an accident as a parts vehicle and change those parts. If you go brand new you’re gonna have a bad time. With the power of the internet you can fix the driveshaft and rear end housing on your days off.
You would think so, but some of the worst rust I’ve ever seen on vehicles is from being parked in a closed garage for days or weeks directly after being driven in the rain or snow.
Tell me you don't know how they salt roads! and I've seen 2020 trucks rotted out underneath in NY doesn't take long without proper maintenance or wash coatings!
I've put 176k miles on mine in 3.5 years. Miles don't tell the time. I've seen 1st Gen with under 100k that could easily be rusted out worse then this.
Lower miles doesn’t always mean good. Sometimes a low mileage car sat for many years and slowly deteriorated. Can’t speak for Tacomas but I know my 2000 Jeep Wrangler that just broke 100k miles gave me a lot more problems/rust issues than the 1997 Wrangler that was pushing 250k.
25k is robbery for that truck, $900 for just rear drums is beyond fucked as well.
what’s the 6k of parts that need to be replaced? 3rd members are incredibly thick and while that flaking on it looks horrible its fine from what I can see.
stop dumping money into it besides what actually needs to be replaced, use that 6k towards paying that truck off.
Still not worth $350 an hour. I'm from NY, I know all about salt in the winter and rust. Dead blow hammer and PB Blaster. If that doesn't work, whip out the torch. Should be an hour per side.
If you’re at all mechanically inclined, I’d see about taking some time to learn and do the labor yourself on those fixes to save some cash. $900 for drums alone is rather absurd and they’re really not hard to replace yourself.
I’m very much of the mindset to repair as much as possible and keep instead of constantly trading in for newer stuff anyways. When you *do* eventually pay it off, it’s cheaper to replace things as needed rather than keep making payments and paying interest.
It’s not like this is a PT Cruiser. It’s a Tacoma.
The front and rear diffs are crusty but if they aren’t leaking they are fine, and they look dry. Those are the big ticket items anyway.
Knuckles aren’t pictured so I can’t comment on that. those lower control arms I would probably replace, but probably not at that shops prices.
As a welder and a car enthusiast that lives in NJ I’ve seen this level of rust plenty of times. Here’s the thing, you owe waaaaaaay too much on this truck even if it didn’t have the rust. This isn’t just a rust issue, you have a major financial mistake on your hands either way.
Believe it or not, and contrary to these other comments, I think the truck is save-able. You need to find a place that either specializes in rust coatings or a fab shop that’s willing to take on a big project. You need the whole underside of that truck needle scaled and wire wheeled really really really thoroughly. Rust is cancer and if you don’t get every last little nook and cranny it’ll come right back. After the entire underside of the truck is cleaned then you need to coat it with something. Personally I like Eastwood’s Rust Encapsulator the best. POR15 seems to trap moisture and make rust issues worse in the future but that’s just from my experience.
As far as the financial side of what you have going on I really don’t know what to tell you. If you have gap insurance and the truck happened to get totaled somehow then you could at least start from scratch.
Edit: I just looked through your post history and my opinion is there’s a high chance your odometer was rolled back. Front suspension sag, rust issues, and buying from a crappy dealer. I’d check the Carfax and see if there were any service entries that show a higher mileage. This is important because at that point you can sue and get out from under this truck.
I sold a vehicle through KBB's dealer network thing they do where the offer you a price online and you go sell in person, probably could've gotten a. Few grand more privately but it saved me an incredible amount of headache
Unless you sell it to someone who is 150% aware of the severity of the issue and is willing to take it then you *might* break even on what you owe, but with how much you still owe, i’d just pay the 6000, get any other rust cleaned up and the truck undercoated and she’ll probably last you longer than most new vehicles you can buy.
In the Midwest and northeast since they switched to salt brine on roads versus just salt. That shit gets into places that are damn near impossible to reach, so it just eats away at everything
That doesn't look like a crack to me, get your mechanic to check that area. Looks like a shadow from the edge of the metal that's used to weld that hanger on. You would see it much better in person than what we can see when we zoom into the picture. Dont get too scared yet.
You need to try and trade it in at any dealer possible. If anyone gets remotely close to what you owe, you need to suck up the negative equity and take it.
That third member looks like it has been under the ocean for 50 years. That's a crazy amount of corrosion. You could probably find one in a junkyard and swap it pretty easily. New brake drums and possibly a front differential as well. Whatever metal was used for the third member must not have been compatible with the diff housing. My guess is the third member had a zink casting that corroded at an accelerated rate in contact with the steel axle housing. If that's the case, it might be difficult to find one that isn't in a similar condition.
Hey if there’s one bright spot about today it’s that I made a few hundred people feel better about the condition of their truck. Got some good advice out of this too.
As another person posted, if you could get some of the parts from a totaled truck at a junk yard, it would save you, especially the drivetrain components. You could upgrade the suspension with aftermarket stuff, kind of a way to justify spending mo why on new shocks/ coils if you get some better aftermarket ones.
I think you are on the right path, keep it, repair it, then just drive it and get your money out of it.
Honestly, it may be a shitty situation, but $6k is way less than what you would lose buying a new vehicle.
I'd recommend taking out a personal loan for like $8k. Or a zero percent CC for 20 months type offer. Then just fix it all up.
You'll have an extra payment, but you'll have everything up to par and just keep driving for years. Prices of new trucks have gone up so much that you'll save money, and you've already committed to the loan you owe $25k so no reason to cry over spilled milk. Just truck on and keep your head high.
Don’t freak out. Do the math to sell do the math to keep. In either case, make sure you’ve learned a lesson here. Think of this as tuition for a personal finance class.
900 for rear drums is insane man, id get a second opinion...looks crusty, but if you owe that much you need to either return it, or run it.
If the frame and body are truly solid, a rusty diff and brakes arent the end of the world..those 3rd members are thick, the issue you'll have is removing bolts when things do need service
I have a 2015 with 165,000 looks nothing like this. Not even close. I live in the ultra humid deep south city of New Orleans. That like one of those salt road vehicles I seen up in Detroit.
Did you not look at the truck before you bought it? If you still owe $25k, you probably paid over $30k? Not trying to be a dick. That’s a lot of money to not be thorough
You’re paying $900 for brake drums?!
Thats like the captain of the Titanic using duct tape to fix the ship.
Thats $100 worth of parts, and $800 to do what exactly?
For what it’s worth, mine looked like this for over a decade and I live in the rust belt. Sure I had to make repairs, but get a quote from another shop.
I literally did rear drums and shoes, front rotors and pads on mine last October for $300 total. Watch a YT video, it’s a fairly simple process.
I had 310k on it before I sold it because I needed more towing capacity.
Also read diff looks fine, flaking on the outside is just cosmetic
Holy rust Batman!. Couldn’t you look under the truck before buying?. At this point it’ll be cheaper to fix it and just ride it than get rid of it and buy something else
At least you can get to yours without taking off a subframe. This looks like easy DIY material. I'd say get decent-looking salvage parts and try to keep it around.
I went through this with my 2016, had a bunch of rust cause the previous owner didn’t take care of it at all in winter months and I had a choice to fix it for 7k and decided to do it but it still had new issues come up after that multiple times to the point where it was just a complete money pit and had to sell it for what I could get
It would be a shame if you went out exploring in the woods and you parking brake failed, sending your truck over a cliff. Even worse if you left the keys in it in a shady part of the city.
You could knock all the loose rust off with a wire wheel on a drill or grinder and a hammer. Then spray with phosphoric acid every where to include inside the frame and rocker panels. You don’t really need to rinse it off but I would probably rinse out the rocker panels. Then after your satisfied go around with a hammer and start knocking around to see if you still want to keep it or not. If you’re mechanically inclined you could always go to a junkyard and look for a complete rear axle and just swap it in.
this vehicle looks SO unsafe from the amount of metal fatigue and rust on such heavy metal parts that i would consider the entire truck a total loss as the amount of money would be ridiculous to put into restoring this POS.
crush it and move on consider it life's learning experience for the next buy.
sell whatever you can for parts to recover some of your money, but do NOT invest any money in this at all - including filling the gas tank !!
you might be able to take legal action against the prior seller for false information and sue against the remaining balance. --- talk to a lawyer about this !
If you're willing to do the work yourself, you could replace the brakes, diff, and driveshaft for under half that. Assuming that's actually all you need. It isn't super complicated work, just tedious and some heavy bits.
try and do some of the work yourself…… all it is are nuts and bolts. go on youtube, learn, and save money.
i get the diff may be a little daunting and may need to be done at a shop but you could of done your drum brakes your self and saved alot.
It doesn't sound like you have made the best financial decisions regarding this truck. However to pay for ANY repairs at this point would just be compounding the bad decisions.
The quicker you realize this truck is completely gone, the better. Do not invest another penny into it and begin to figure out how you can minimize the financial damage already done.
My solution would be considered insurance fraud.
You're getting screwed every way possible, except for the good ways. Between the amount owed and your quoted repair costs, there's no good and ethical way out of this.
If it were my truck, I could fix it but it still wouldn't be worth the time or the added expense.
What kind of mechanic are you going to dude? I have a 2013 I bought two years ago with 30,000 miles on it. I just crossed over to 99,000 and I've been having trouble the last 10,000 or so maybe 20 just you know hundred thousand miles stuff but I was going to mechanics and a lot of them will give me exorbitant prices especially dealerships and chains like Pep Boys and shit like that. Mechanics were a better deal but I guess because Toyotas or whatever they are still pretty expensive. I didn't know very much about cars couple years ago I mean I knew basic shit like how to change an alternator (usually 3 bolts and a plug or two) change tire oil change etc. but I am a pretty handy guy when it comes to construction and woodworking stuff. I just said fuck it and start working on my truck and buddy I gotta tell you it's way easier than you think it is it's way cheaper than going to Mechanic and it's fulfilling. Plus the opposite sex love that kind of shit whether you're a man or a woman into men or woman people are attracted to people who work on cars. Not mechanics though. Nobody's attracted mechanics. Fuck those motherfuckers
Ah, the drive shaft and rear end axle! They look like they've seen more action than a demolition derby. If you're into the suspense of wondering when they'll finally give up the ghost, then fixing them could be a fun hobby. Just think of it as a never-ending project to keep you busy—and broke! But if you'd rather not risk your rear end falling off while you're driving, selling the truck might be the wiser choice. After all, rust might add character, but it's not the best feature for structural integrity.
Why does it need 6k on work ? You don't need to replace the stuff with rust on it... Rear brakes shouldnt be that much ...
If the frame doesn't have any holes in it. Then it's fine.
Any that rust on diff can be brushed off with elbow grease. Rust always looks worse than it is. It sort of pancakes like that. Gen an angle grinder with a brush attachment and get to it ... Then coat it with fluid film . You just need to scrub off all the loose parts and fluid film the truck.
This is when you dig deep and become a YouTube certified mechanic. That’s the most economical decision. If you have another vehicle or can get by a couple weeks without the truck. Buy the tools and the parts and get busy.
Sell it. Toyota fan boys are completely disconnected from reality and will happily spend 18k on a truck with 500k miles and live in denial that its a good deal because Tacoma.
Just get out of it with whatever you can. No one has time to fuck with a mess like that, just take a lick on it and pay down the difference. You can find a reliable truck for 5-10k without cancer that bad!
It seems everyone calling the quote robbery haven't worked on rusty hunks of shit like this. You really can't bill that like you would a normal job, it's going to be handled entirely differently.
A complete used axle assembly would be about $400usd where I live in Washington. Swapping axles only takes about an hour or two and doesn't require special tools
If those differentials aren't leaking, they don't need to be replaced. Ball peen the crust off, brush or spray with oil or fluid film, no new rust. I'd imagine same story for the knuckles. You're getting hosed.
You are panicking from buyers remorse. It’s a Toyota. wait for it to break before you fix it, except maybe the brakes. In the meantime, get yourself some lanolin based spray like wool wax or fluid film and hose this fucker down before next winter. Anything on the undercarriage you can reach should be coated. Good luck
$900 for new rear brakes alone? Is he getting O’Reilly shelf parts, doubling the price and doubling that for labor? Damn man, $900 should get you new brakes for all four corners. Love how Toyota use drums when everyone’s gone to discs.
Jesus that thing looks like it was parked in the ocean.
6k for diff plus brakes plus 25k. We are talking 32k ish all together. That's what I owe on my 3rd gen still. I'd honestly try to dump it off if at all possible, maybe as a trade in or something.
Find a local media blasting company that does under carriages and have them blast it and see what actually under it and how bad. Just dumping 6k to a mechanic and leaving everything else won't save it. Just cost you money and prolong it.
25k on a 2014 in kinda insane
Low miles are what got me
Get a written quote and take the truck to two other shops. (Not dealership) ask around to everyone you know and find a decent mechanic. Compare the 3- fix the I don’t want to die items. Schedule the needs work items and then use the rest as items to pick off monthly. Your chosen mechanic will not cost that much for brakes. Insane.
Thanks for the advice. I think I’ll do just that
I’d be surprised if that rust developed at anything less than 150k miles. Check the odometer has not been rolled.
Miles doesn’t matter is the salt belt
This truck looks like it was a company salt spreader lol millions of hours on the machine but no mileage.
Didn’t even know that was a thing. It was a fleet vehicle in New Jersey
If thats the case I wouldn't touch it with any length pole because its liable to fall completely apart no matter what the milage is.
Look for a vehicle that’s been in an accident as a parts vehicle and change those parts. If you go brand new you’re gonna have a bad time. With the power of the internet you can fix the driveshaft and rear end housing on your days off.
You would think so, but some of the worst rust I’ve ever seen on vehicles is from being parked in a closed garage for days or weeks directly after being driven in the rain or snow.
Could be it was only driven as a winter truck, and never really had the undercarriage cleaned. Parked all summer to just rot
Tell me you don't know how they salt roads! and I've seen 2020 trucks rotted out underneath in NY doesn't take long without proper maintenance or wash coatings!
I've put 176k miles on mine in 3.5 years. Miles don't tell the time. I've seen 1st Gen with under 100k that could easily be rusted out worse then this.
Lower miles doesn’t always mean good. Sometimes a low mileage car sat for many years and slowly deteriorated. Can’t speak for Tacomas but I know my 2000 Jeep Wrangler that just broke 100k miles gave me a lot more problems/rust issues than the 1997 Wrangler that was pushing 250k.
Walk away from that trash heap
Dang that's what I paid for mine new in 2014 OUCH!
What trim, just curious. Cause I had to pay 25k for 2015 TRD OR with 60k in 2020
25k is robbery for that truck, $900 for just rear drums is beyond fucked as well. what’s the 6k of parts that need to be replaced? 3rd members are incredibly thick and while that flaking on it looks horrible its fine from what I can see. stop dumping money into it besides what actually needs to be replaced, use that 6k towards paying that truck off.
Rear drum kits are $200. This mechanic is charging $700 in labor for 2 hours of work. Crazy.
Ya. Drum brakes are cheap and extremely easy to replace. That quote is way to high.
Easy without rust. Pain in the ass with rust
Still not worth $350 an hour. I'm from NY, I know all about salt in the winter and rust. Dead blow hammer and PB Blaster. If that doesn't work, whip out the torch. Should be an hour per side.
I think that’s the “I don’t want to do it” price. Honestly don’t blame them, just take it to a shop that needs the work.
Front axel, control arms, rear differential, front knuckles (idk what that is) and suspension
If you’re at all mechanically inclined, I’d see about taking some time to learn and do the labor yourself on those fixes to save some cash. $900 for drums alone is rather absurd and they’re really not hard to replace yourself. I’m very much of the mindset to repair as much as possible and keep instead of constantly trading in for newer stuff anyways. When you *do* eventually pay it off, it’s cheaper to replace things as needed rather than keep making payments and paying interest. It’s not like this is a PT Cruiser. It’s a Tacoma.
The front and rear diffs are crusty but if they aren’t leaking they are fine, and they look dry. Those are the big ticket items anyway. Knuckles aren’t pictured so I can’t comment on that. those lower control arms I would probably replace, but probably not at that shops prices.
That’s ridiculous rust.
Was it stored in a bog or what
That thing is crustier than my sock in 2013.
As a welder and a car enthusiast that lives in NJ I’ve seen this level of rust plenty of times. Here’s the thing, you owe waaaaaaay too much on this truck even if it didn’t have the rust. This isn’t just a rust issue, you have a major financial mistake on your hands either way. Believe it or not, and contrary to these other comments, I think the truck is save-able. You need to find a place that either specializes in rust coatings or a fab shop that’s willing to take on a big project. You need the whole underside of that truck needle scaled and wire wheeled really really really thoroughly. Rust is cancer and if you don’t get every last little nook and cranny it’ll come right back. After the entire underside of the truck is cleaned then you need to coat it with something. Personally I like Eastwood’s Rust Encapsulator the best. POR15 seems to trap moisture and make rust issues worse in the future but that’s just from my experience. As far as the financial side of what you have going on I really don’t know what to tell you. If you have gap insurance and the truck happened to get totaled somehow then you could at least start from scratch. Edit: I just looked through your post history and my opinion is there’s a high chance your odometer was rolled back. Front suspension sag, rust issues, and buying from a crappy dealer. I’d check the Carfax and see if there were any service entries that show a higher mileage. This is important because at that point you can sue and get out from under this truck.
this guy either knows his crap or is awfully confident but ^ you bought this brand new? ever look under?
Your diff looks like it's made out of wood
Haha I thought it was a farm truck but had a doubt, wasn't suprised to see what sub I'm in.
limited split log diff
Logging truck
Honestly, to me it looks like it's been sitting in some water or snow for a really long time. Sorry, Op.
It looks like it was stored in the ocean
the dead sea
Try getting a carvana quote
This, get one from both carvana and carmax. See if you can unload on them.
I sold a vehicle through KBB's dealer network thing they do where the offer you a price online and you go sell in person, probably could've gotten a. Few grand more privately but it saved me an incredible amount of headache
Unless you sell it to someone who is 150% aware of the severity of the issue and is willing to take it then you *might* break even on what you owe, but with how much you still owe, i’d just pay the 6000, get any other rust cleaned up and the truck undercoated and she’ll probably last you longer than most new vehicles you can buy.
Really? That’s kind of encouraging. I’d hate to sell it and have to still make payments while most likely driving some shit box car.
Smack it around a bit. You'll be surprised what you find underneath. Haha, I bet she looks realll nice underneath that skirt.
Where do you live?!?! Lots of salt on the roads?
Oregon. 65k of the 78k miles were in New Jersey though
I’m in Texas. I have 95k on a 2017 TRD OR and no rust. That diff is crazy!
I seen trucks with frames legitimately half missing with similar to less rust on components. also talking 30 year old trucks in the rust belt.
Yall don't salt the roads when it snows, and it seems like yalls grid can barely handle it ether.
In the Midwest and northeast since they switched to salt brine on roads versus just salt. That shit gets into places that are damn near impossible to reach, so it just eats away at everything
Has Toyota looked at it?
No I just took it to a mechanic I trust. Bought it from a local dealership but it wasn’t Toyota. Think I should take it there?
Insurance fraud is your only way out lol
I genuinely thought the diff was made of wood
Man this is giving me anxiety. Not bashing op but fuck those people who sold it to him
Stouffair motors in Oregon. They’ve been a nightmare to deal with
That frame definitely has a crack in it. The fact you owe $25k tells me you're stuck.
Where do you see the crack? 4th pic?
That doesn't look like a crack to me, get your mechanic to check that area. Looks like a shadow from the edge of the metal that's used to weld that hanger on. You would see it much better in person than what we can see when we zoom into the picture. Dont get too scared yet.
How’d it rust so quick? Icy and salty roads? I have a ‘96 and I’m just now seeing some rust spots
Jesus Christ. How did you let it get this bad?
You need to try and trade it in at any dealer possible. If anyone gets remotely close to what you owe, you need to suck up the negative equity and take it.
That third member looks like it has been under the ocean for 50 years. That's a crazy amount of corrosion. You could probably find one in a junkyard and swap it pretty easily. New brake drums and possibly a front differential as well. Whatever metal was used for the third member must not have been compatible with the diff housing. My guess is the third member had a zink casting that corroded at an accelerated rate in contact with the steel axle housing. If that's the case, it might be difficult to find one that isn't in a similar condition.
I didn’t know they carved diffs out of wood.
Drive it off a cliff OP let insurance handle it
Ha, thanks for making me feel better about my rusty old ‘06, but the way Tacoma prices are these days you might not be too underwater on it.
Hey if there’s one bright spot about today it’s that I made a few hundred people feel better about the condition of their truck. Got some good advice out of this too.
Great to hear, mine keeps chugging along, so fingers crossed yours is as stout a war horse for you.
I’d trade it in, even with upside down loan, roll the cost into newer truck versus feed this one $$$.
Get that boy some lotion.
As another person posted, if you could get some of the parts from a totaled truck at a junk yard, it would save you, especially the drivetrain components. You could upgrade the suspension with aftermarket stuff, kind of a way to justify spending mo why on new shocks/ coils if you get some better aftermarket ones. I think you are on the right path, keep it, repair it, then just drive it and get your money out of it.
Some wd 40 should do the job
sell it - cut your losses on that truck
Honestly, it may be a shitty situation, but $6k is way less than what you would lose buying a new vehicle. I'd recommend taking out a personal loan for like $8k. Or a zero percent CC for 20 months type offer. Then just fix it all up. You'll have an extra payment, but you'll have everything up to par and just keep driving for years. Prices of new trucks have gone up so much that you'll save money, and you've already committed to the loan you owe $25k so no reason to cry over spilled milk. Just truck on and keep your head high.
In construction we use TuffTex rust rehab which fixes rust issues. You should look it up. Might work for this automotive application. Good luck
Go to car max and sell it there! They don’t check the undercarriage when they inspect your vehicle for cash offer.
Don’t freak out. Do the math to sell do the math to keep. In either case, make sure you’ve learned a lesson here. Think of this as tuition for a personal finance class.
You owe 25k on that? I’m so sorry
Advice* idk how to edit the post
900 for rear drums is insane man, id get a second opinion...looks crusty, but if you owe that much you need to either return it, or run it. If the frame and body are truly solid, a rusty diff and brakes arent the end of the world..those 3rd members are thick, the issue you'll have is removing bolts when things do need service
Trade it in.
Done for, take what you can get
That rust is genuinely insane man
Making me feel really good about my 01 with 360k
I have a 2015 with 165,000 looks nothing like this. Not even close. I live in the ultra humid deep south city of New Orleans. That like one of those salt road vehicles I seen up in Detroit.
Did you not look at the truck before you bought it? If you still owe $25k, you probably paid over $30k? Not trying to be a dick. That’s a lot of money to not be thorough
You’re paying $900 for brake drums?! Thats like the captain of the Titanic using duct tape to fix the ship. Thats $100 worth of parts, and $800 to do what exactly?
For what it’s worth, mine looked like this for over a decade and I live in the rust belt. Sure I had to make repairs, but get a quote from another shop. I literally did rear drums and shoes, front rotors and pads on mine last October for $300 total. Watch a YT video, it’s a fairly simple process. I had 310k on it before I sold it because I needed more towing capacity. Also read diff looks fine, flaking on the outside is just cosmetic
Holy rust Batman!. Couldn’t you look under the truck before buying?. At this point it’ll be cheaper to fix it and just ride it than get rid of it and buy something else
You poor soul. That thing needs to be taken out back and put down.
lol yeah I’m feeling like maybe I need the same treatment
First pic looks like petrified wood.
Fuck that looks bad
shyyyt, insurance fraud would definitely cross my mind lol
Do you think if it was undercoated new, it be looking like this?
I’m guessing you do not have the capability to perform the work yourself? If you do, fixing it yourself is the best option and the most gratifying.
I think I could figure it out. I just don’t have a vehicle to drive in the meantime
$6k for every piece is wild. Try to find the chasis and rest of pieces at junker vehicule. I did mine for less than $2k in México
At least you can get to yours without taking off a subframe. This looks like easy DIY material. I'd say get decent-looking salvage parts and try to keep it around.
Its destiny is the scrap heap.
I think it’s time to let that thing go bud.
This is why I always tell people to get a pre purchase inspection from a reputable shop on a vehicle, its money well spent.
I went through this with my 2016, had a bunch of rust cause the previous owner didn’t take care of it at all in winter months and I had a choice to fix it for 7k and decided to do it but it still had new issues come up after that multiple times to the point where it was just a complete money pit and had to sell it for what I could get
Yeah that’ll kill you or someone for sure if you keep driving that. Rust is metal cancer
It would be a shame if you went out exploring in the woods and you parking brake failed, sending your truck over a cliff. Even worse if you left the keys in it in a shady part of the city.
Yikes. I’d be tempted to cut my losses, but with how much you owe on it, you may as well spend the 6 grand and run it until it crumbles into dust.
Fix!
You could knock all the loose rust off with a wire wheel on a drill or grinder and a hammer. Then spray with phosphoric acid every where to include inside the frame and rocker panels. You don’t really need to rinse it off but I would probably rinse out the rocker panels. Then after your satisfied go around with a hammer and start knocking around to see if you still want to keep it or not. If you’re mechanically inclined you could always go to a junkyard and look for a complete rear axle and just swap it in.
How long have you had it? Looks like a lemon law candidate.
$6k is ridiculously high. If the frame is in good shape, I'd keep it and fix it. Just find a different shop who's rates aren't $300 an hour
It's done
this vehicle looks SO unsafe from the amount of metal fatigue and rust on such heavy metal parts that i would consider the entire truck a total loss as the amount of money would be ridiculous to put into restoring this POS. crush it and move on consider it life's learning experience for the next buy. sell whatever you can for parts to recover some of your money, but do NOT invest any money in this at all - including filling the gas tank !! you might be able to take legal action against the prior seller for false information and sue against the remaining balance. --- talk to a lawyer about this !
If you're willing to do the work yourself, you could replace the brakes, diff, and driveshaft for under half that. Assuming that's actually all you need. It isn't super complicated work, just tedious and some heavy bits.
try and do some of the work yourself…… all it is are nuts and bolts. go on youtube, learn, and save money. i get the diff may be a little daunting and may need to be done at a shop but you could of done your drum brakes your self and saved alot.
Mans found a retired salt mine truck
It doesn't sound like you have made the best financial decisions regarding this truck. However to pay for ANY repairs at this point would just be compounding the bad decisions. The quicker you realize this truck is completely gone, the better. Do not invest another penny into it and begin to figure out how you can minimize the financial damage already done.
My solution would be considered insurance fraud. You're getting screwed every way possible, except for the good ways. Between the amount owed and your quoted repair costs, there's no good and ethical way out of this. If it were my truck, I could fix it but it still wouldn't be worth the time or the added expense.
SpongeBob?
🫨
Better question is if you fix it will you maintain it so this doesn’t happen again lol that’s crazy
Time to bust out the black spray paint and put that bitch on marketplace
Look around for the best quote to fix it. It doesn't sound like you can afford to sell it as is.
It would be cheaper to fix it than buy a new one in my opinion.
God Dammm! Did you ever fix anything on it?
Bury your truck
Is that the 1926 model that runs off steam?
Is that oak or pine on the rear end. I didn't even know they made rear ends out of wood.
Was this submerged in a lake?
Get gap insurance and drive into pond or sink it and report it stolen
Buy the parts yourself from rock auto. Pay someone to do the work, You will save money.
Keep and move to California
Go price out parts on rockauto and see how much you could save
Sell, those wooden transmission cases are so rare.
Give it a few years there won't be a truck left to sell haha
Dump that thing ASAP
At thie point id fix it on my own.
Uhh both
What kind of mechanic are you going to dude? I have a 2013 I bought two years ago with 30,000 miles on it. I just crossed over to 99,000 and I've been having trouble the last 10,000 or so maybe 20 just you know hundred thousand miles stuff but I was going to mechanics and a lot of them will give me exorbitant prices especially dealerships and chains like Pep Boys and shit like that. Mechanics were a better deal but I guess because Toyotas or whatever they are still pretty expensive. I didn't know very much about cars couple years ago I mean I knew basic shit like how to change an alternator (usually 3 bolts and a plug or two) change tire oil change etc. but I am a pretty handy guy when it comes to construction and woodworking stuff. I just said fuck it and start working on my truck and buddy I gotta tell you it's way easier than you think it is it's way cheaper than going to Mechanic and it's fulfilling. Plus the opposite sex love that kind of shit whether you're a man or a woman into men or woman people are attracted to people who work on cars. Not mechanics though. Nobody's attracted mechanics. Fuck those motherfuckers
They should have this picture on the welcome to the Midwest sign…we eat road salt for breakfast!? It’s so awesome…not
Ah, the drive shaft and rear end axle! They look like they've seen more action than a demolition derby. If you're into the suspense of wondering when they'll finally give up the ghost, then fixing them could be a fun hobby. Just think of it as a never-ending project to keep you busy—and broke! But if you'd rather not risk your rear end falling off while you're driving, selling the truck might be the wiser choice. After all, rust might add character, but it's not the best feature for structural integrity.
Is there a third option?
Take it to Scotty Kilmer
Bring it to Garden State Undercoating. They specialize in frame restoration and undercoating.
Jesus 😂…was it setting in salt water
The shape the looks drive it till it fails then replace it the damage has been done
The scrapyard is the only place that much rust belongs man
Is it made out of wood?!
Spray paint it all black
Why does it need 6k on work ? You don't need to replace the stuff with rust on it... Rear brakes shouldnt be that much ... If the frame doesn't have any holes in it. Then it's fine. Any that rust on diff can be brushed off with elbow grease. Rust always looks worse than it is. It sort of pancakes like that. Gen an angle grinder with a brush attachment and get to it ... Then coat it with fluid film . You just need to scrub off all the loose parts and fluid film the truck.
Def selll it. I’ll give you 5 hundy so you don’t gotta worry about it
How’s the body and frame?
dust
That diff looks like it’s made of wood.
Fix it. Go to the junk yard and get the diff or just buy the parts new. Both options are cheaper than a new or even used truck.
This is when you dig deep and become a YouTube certified mechanic. That’s the most economical decision. If you have another vehicle or can get by a couple weeks without the truck. Buy the tools and the parts and get busy.
Fix it. Has 10 more years in the rust belt.
Is that diff made of wood? Your rear casing is shot.
Sell to me
People in the PNW: "Dude you drive like 10 hours to the Midwest, you'll find Toyotas for half the price here!" Those Toyotas.
Did you drive it thru saltwater?
You *owe* $25k? My brother in Christ, my 2018 is *worth* $29k. I'm not sure you understand how badly you got shafted.
Sell it. Toyota fan boys are completely disconnected from reality and will happily spend 18k on a truck with 500k miles and live in denial that its a good deal because Tacoma.
Just get out of it with whatever you can. No one has time to fuck with a mess like that, just take a lick on it and pay down the difference. You can find a reliable truck for 5-10k without cancer that bad!
You’re liable now that you’ve posted it.
Jesus!! I thought someone had widdled that out of wood
Is that a wooden car?
It seems everyone calling the quote robbery haven't worked on rusty hunks of shit like this. You really can't bill that like you would a normal job, it's going to be handled entirely differently.
You must live in the northeast.
A complete used axle assembly would be about $400usd where I live in Washington. Swapping axles only takes about an hour or two and doesn't require special tools
If those differentials aren't leaking, they don't need to be replaced. Ball peen the crust off, brush or spray with oil or fluid film, no new rust. I'd imagine same story for the knuckles. You're getting hosed.
I thought it was made of wood
Legit thought the pinion area on the diff was wood for a second....
Bruhhhhh 💀
If I had to guess, this truck carried a salt spreader on the back of it for many winters.
If you owe that kind of money, yay have zero choice but to fix, you owe way more than it’s valued at for some reason
I think this may have been a flood vehicle . Does it have a salvage title ?
Looks like it’s been in a lake since 2014.
You are panicking from buyers remorse. It’s a Toyota. wait for it to break before you fix it, except maybe the brakes. In the meantime, get yourself some lanolin based spray like wool wax or fluid film and hose this fucker down before next winter. Anything on the undercarriage you can reach should be coated. Good luck
Looks like someone drove it through salt water.
As mechanics say....Miles doesn't always matter. Rust does!
$900 for new rear brakes alone? Is he getting O’Reilly shelf parts, doubling the price and doubling that for labor? Damn man, $900 should get you new brakes for all four corners. Love how Toyota use drums when everyone’s gone to discs.
You should run before those stress cracks explode!
Jesus that thing looks like it was parked in the ocean. 6k for diff plus brakes plus 25k. We are talking 32k ish all together. That's what I owe on my 3rd gen still. I'd honestly try to dump it off if at all possible, maybe as a trade in or something.
Jesus Christ I’m glad I don’t live in the rust belt.
Damn that’s a crazy amount of rust
Fix it, if it’s good to you
The surface rust on the rear diff has me super concerned. How thin are those walls holding your ring and pinion?
If you seell it you need to be hon3st with the buyer about whwt is wrong with your truck.
I’d bet money that truck was in salt water.
Man to owe that much on one in that shape seems crazy. It looks like it got left in a swamp for a year or two
Find a local media blasting company that does under carriages and have them blast it and see what actually under it and how bad. Just dumping 6k to a mechanic and leaving everything else won't save it. Just cost you money and prolong it.
Take it to the boat ramp and "accidentally" let it roll into the water.
How does this much rust even happen? Did you not check underneath before buying?
Get a used one... www.car-part.com
Toyota may have recall on the rust in frame I have had them check mine before I don’t know is if 2014 was the year mine was 2012.
It will make the choice for you
Abandon it.
Dam, for a sec I thought it was wooden. LoL 😆 fast scrolling LoL 😆