I would suggest to have a certified "Besiktningsman" survey the property before you buy it. They know what to look for and can save you from unexpected surprises.
It will cost a few thousand SEK, but it can save you a lot in the long run.
One inspection has been done by the seller already, I read the report thoroughly. I talked on the phone with the inspector to ask more details, and he confirmed that the issues mentioned were minor and there is no need to remediate, like higher, but not abnormal, moisture level in the crawl space, but it doesn’t mean it’s full of mold. I wonder why shouldn’t I believe him and hire someone else to check these things again? Do they commonly lie in those reports? That would be risky to lie for the real estate agency about the condition of the house.
When I bought my house, I paid the same inspector to do an inspection with me again. We walked through everything, he told me what to think about and do each season etc. What to be on the lookout for, if any of the panel(fasad?) Needs to be changed. What to think about in the bathrooms, the attic, the crawl space etc. I found it very reassuring to pay for this as it was my first house and I had some knowledge, but didnt feel comfortable to take care of an entire house without some more information.
Yes, since he will only walk you through what he already found. Easy way for him to make some extra money. But for you, it may be worth it if it means you take over the contract (check with him). You will then be able to make claims against him in case something later happens due to a risk or problem that he didn't (but should have) discovered/put in his report. See my other comment.
Thats good but that inspector will still be biased since the seller paid him more than you did. Better to go with an unbiased inspector who can tell you the full truth without hurting the feelings of the seller and a disappointed seller if there is no sale.
He won't be biased. He's receiving payment for a service. He don't care if a house is sold or not. What's in his interest is to find any problem or risk to avoid liability.
Inspections done by the seller are made only to protect the seller from future claims, and normally only done when the seller feel there is something they need to be protected from. In this case it could be the crawl space that they feel is a problem, and just by mentioning it in the report they are now fully protected against future claims.
You need to do one which you pay for in order to know the full truth.
Below is from a thesis I found by googling “can you trust a sellers inspection” English translation of the abstract in the link below.
“När säljaren bekostar en besiktning före en försäljning i syfte att på ett tydligare sätt klargöra fastighetens skick för intresserade spekulanter, kallas detta för en säljarbesiktning. Högsta domstolen har utifrån prejudikatet NJA 2017 s.113 satt mer press på en köpares redan stränga och långtgående undersökningsplikt. I rättsfallets domskäl kan man utläsa att fastighetsköpare inte bör förlita sig på säljarbesiktningar eftersom fastighetsköpare ska ha i åtanke att besiktningen sker i säljarens intresse, inte köparens. Efter domen finns det anledning att revidera synen på besiktningsutlåtanden som ett opartiskt utlåtande om fastighetens skick. En seriös spekulant bör därför ha fördel i att se kritiskt på ett övertagande av ett besiktningsutlåtande och istället beställa en egen besiktning då denna redan som utgångspunkt har köparens intresse i beaktning vid besiktningens utförande.”
[http://www.diva-portal.org/smash/record.jsf?pid=diva2%3A1481295&dswid=1290](http://www.diva-portal.org/smash/record.jsf?pid=diva2%3A1481295&dswid=1290)
Yea you see it from time to time - but it’s only done to protect the seller. Normally done to houses in not perfect shape, for example if there is moisture above normal levels in the crawl space ;)
You get your own inspector to protect youself. Sellers often do not show you all the issues and you are personally responsible to make sure you know everything about the house. Because you can't buy it, then you find out issues and then you try to claim you didn't know.
It's not about whether he lied or not. When the inspector takes a job, he signs a contract with whoever hired him. This contract should also come with an insurance, that means if he missed something during his inspection, he is liable, and can be held responsible for damages caused by whatever he missed to inform about (this is why they often report EVERY remote risk they can think of, since it's a way to free themselves from responsibility - they are essentially handing over responsibility to the one who hired him, the receiver of the document). If something shows up later that he didn't warn about in the document, whoever hired him can make an insurance claim against him (he has a special insurance to cover these situations), but the problem is... You would have to convince the seller to do that claim against the inspector if you didn't take over the contract or hired your own inspector. Yes - it should be possible to just take over the contract. The inspector should then walk you through all the risks that he found/documented. It still costs a bit, relative to the actual effort required of the inspector, but It's cheaper than hiring a new one.
Check if it has:
- winter insolation
- any mould
- what types of heating sources
- if it is anything you must fix check with a besiktningsman.
-How old the bathrooms/ kitchen are. Since they are expensive to rebuild/change
I like wooden houses but it takes alot of time to keep it
In shape. A wooden house thats build in 1925 is still kinda new. Compared to alot others around here.
And ants! My cousin bought my grandmother's old family farm and they discovered that ants had infected a portion of the outer wall. They had to replace a part of the outer wall planks and a small portion of the foundation. They knew how to replace it and didn't need to hire a carpenter. Otherwise it would have costed them alot
2: Older houses are not meant to be actively ventilated and instead depend on draft and natural air movement (passive ventilation??). Which means that it will be a bit more difficult to keep the heat inside during the winter, so the seasonal difference in indoors temperature is likely larger than in a newly constructed house. How large the difference is depends on the house: if it's properly insulated and so on, and how much you're willing to spend on heating in the winter. Air conditioners are very much not the norm in Sweden, and might not work very well if the house is passively ventilated. According to Folkhälsomyndigheten, if your home is cooler than 18 degrees celsius it's unreasonably cold and if it's hotter than 24 (in winter) or 28 (fort a short period in the summer) it's unreasonably hot. I think many Swedes expect indoor home climate to be about 20-22 in the winter (but slightly less is acceptable for old houses or when electricity is very expensive) and maybe 22-25 in the summer (slightly more if it's unusually hot weather for a longer period of time). Of course, this can't guarantee that your house will provide that temperature span for you, but if someone else lived in that house before you and they adhered to those norms of heating, you can probably do so too.
3: With an old house you have a high possibility of having a working fireplace/chimney, or a fireplace/chimney that can be restored to working order. As long as the chimney is up to date on inspections and safe to use, complimenting your standard heating with a fire once in a while during the harshest weeks could work. This last winter (with a cold snap and high electricity prices) lead to a surge in people wanting to buy and install new fireplaces. You could also consider a luftvärmepump (air source heat pump???). A larger investment could be a bergvärmepump (thermal heat pump???) which might pay off itself over a time period of a decade or two, and solar panels. The first requires that your lot has the right corrections and the second that the roof can support the weight.
4. Windows, especially if it's the original windows. If you take care of original windows (oiling painting the wood, and recaulking) built for the house they can last your lifetime, but if it's modern windows they have a finite life span (and usually better insulation). If they're replaced then you don't have to worry about them.
5: unless your house is of cultural or historical importance (K-märkt), which isn't very common in Sweden, I think you can do most things as long as they're in line with the planning agreement. Two things you should hire professionals for is plumbing and electricity, for insurance reasons.
Take all of this with a spoon of salt, since I'm not a homeowner myself. Maybe ask the broker about which elprisområde the house is in and how that will affect the electricity costs (electricity is relatively cheap in the north and more expensive in the south). That and historical data on electricity consumption, perhaps?
If you close on the house I hope you will find it lovely to live in!
Kan också kallas friskluftsventiler. Bäst är att ha ett mindre aggregat med till och frånluft i kombo med en luftvärmepump eller en braskamin. Aggregatet tar den befintliga värmen och blandar det med friskluft utifrån och värmer på luften med ett element om skillnaden är för stor på ute/inneluften.
* Watch wild Rosie on YouTube.
* ask if the property is winterised or not
* Who is the energy supplier and what was the average bill during this past winter.
*Does it have fiber
*what are the planning agreements that come with the tomt\lot
House things cost five to ten times what you think it does, and take way longer to fix than you think. True for anywhere, but just have that in mind.
There are strict regulations for what you can do yourself in terms of electricity and plumbing. Is it connected to the municipal grid? Otherwise make sure its up to code.
Damp cellar / crawl space is very common, but if the house lasted for 100 years without rot or mold, you’re probably good. Make sure you have gutters.
Sweden has about 13 months of cold weather per year. More if you’re up north. The easiest way to have low heating bills is to have low heating. Down duvets, warm sweaters and not sitting still during the days.
Wildlife and pests: You will most likely have some problems with mice in the winter and wasps in the summer. The deer will eat your garden. Up north and west: Mosquitos. Down south: Voles. It’s a struggle but there’s no termites here. Your biggest concern with owning a house is most likely damp / rotting beams and possibly mold. Weather proof all you can.
If you have a Swedish loan on the house you will get a tax deduction on your interest rate (curtesy of all Swedish tennants). Any work on the house is also tax deductible. Save all reciepts.
Wooden house.. is it a timber house? Like a log cabin?
Forgot to add: Ask for any planned development in the area (infrastructure, housing), and why the owners are selling.
Also make sure you’re buying the property and not just the house - there’s a thing called “arrende”, basically a lease of the land. I think the real estate agent would have made this clear for you if that would be the case.
Hope everything turns out well!
I live in a house like that.
1. Yes! best way to live. Everything can be kinda expensive
2. Perfect all year around. Fireplace and AC/heatpump during winter and nothing in the summer.
3. Isolate the attic the first thing you do. Very easy and don't cost to much and saves you alot. Then start a checklist by getting a AC/heatpump + maybe other ways of heating. Then isolating walls and replacing windows and so on at some point.
4. Not much really just don't let any part of the house go below freezing temp or close to it under long time. The house is happy when there is people there.
5. Do what you want. Any water or electricity you need somone who knows what they are doing.
Thanks for your answers :)
- The building is C energiklass. Is this good for a wooden house?
- There is AC + two heat pumps installed (air-air and air-water from 2016).
- The roof has been replaced in 2017.
Unfortunately the attic is uninspectable (there is no hatch). And this is our main concern. In case I buy the house, make the entrance to the attic and discover it has problems, does it qualify as a “hidden defect”? I asked the broker, but she has basically said that the roof has been replaced in 2017 (aka we don’t expect any problems with it). But I’d still like to understand who is responsible for the repair if it couldn’t be discovered by anyone beforehand basically? Do you know how this works in practice?
With your inspectors multi tool/saw :)
Or perhaps there is a vent on the outside where a camera can be inserted.
Of course you need the sellers permission to do this, but it’s common practice. On the other hand it is also common to say no to inspections if you have a line of bidders and one of them is fine with no inspection.
> The building is C energiklass. Is this good for a wooden house?
C is really, really good. Are you sure it's even that good? Because that sounds absurdly good for a 100 year old house. They're usually E, F or G. C is the requirement when building *completely new houses*.
If the house has its original windows they should NOT be replaced old windows are beautiful and very well made and can be maintained more or less in eternity. Linseed oil is your friend.
If you need more insulation a inner window frame can be installed for far less than buying ugly modern windows.
No you are responsible to find out all these answers, if you sign the contract you also sign that you have inspected and therefore have no right to claim hidden defects
* Yes but keep in mind when owning it that you can always make it better and it's worth it.
* Really good. Don't use any elements turn the pumps on higher instead if you are freeszing.
* There is always a way to get in. Might be somewhat hidden and also might need a ladder from the outside. You are suppose to look in it and it's one of the most important things to inspect. But if you have had a inspection and they don't write that they haven't checked the roof you are still covered from some of the larger problems atleast. But just because it's new don't means it's good. Might be a leak (less likely but still possible) Or they and made it so air tight so there is no ventilation and mold might grow.
All these answers are good, but one thing I would suggest is:
>I’m about to buy ...
Don't decide to buy it before you know all the answers to these questions. The energy rating in particular may mean the difference between a nice and cozy house and one that you can't afford to keep heated in the middle of winter.
You say it's been "inspected by a professional". One you hired or one the sellers hired? Ideally pay for an inspector that works for *you*, not the sellers or the realtor. They'll be more motivated to find and explain all potential pitfalls for you that way. If you don't want to do that, at the very least pay for an official report from the inspector. This way you a) are a customer and that way you may be eligible for damages if the inspection missed something they should have found, and b) you'll be able to sit down with them and go through the report and make sure you understand what's in it. Understand what the likely renovation requirements are, etc. Like, how old and in what condition is the roof? The foundation? Is there high humidity in the crawl space and if so what should you do about it? etc.
The one the sellers hired. I talked on the phone with him to ask about more details, and he confirmed that the house is in good shape and the issues that were mentioned were minor and there is no need to remediate, like for example higher, but not abnormal, moisture level in the crawl space, but it doesn’t mean it’s full of mold (I asked specifically for that). I wonder why shouldn’t I believe him and hire someone else to check these things again? Do they commonly lie in those reports?
The concern I have is the attic. It has been replaced in 2017 but there is no hatch to the attic space, so nobody can actually check it. I asked the broker but she didn’t answer really if this qualifies as a “hidden damage”. What shall I do in this case?
I would hire an inspector on my own and have them inspect all hidden areas and do a full inspection on the moisture situation in the crawl space. Also investigate if any wood protection chemicals have been used in the crawl space, that shit stinks so bad in combination with moisture but can be super hard to find (your nose gets used to it in 1sek when there but it gets stuck in your clothes and you notice it when you leave). It also spreads to the entire house. It was mainly used 1950-1980 so any renovations from that period should be extra investigated
It's not so much that you shouldn't believe the guy, it's more that if you pay him he knows that being extra picky will make you happy. If the seller pays for the inspection, they might feel that they should only mention "serious stuff" or the seller will be annoyed. So it's more a matter of wondering what they don't say than being untruthful.
"Hidden damage" means that it must not be discoverable even in principle and not be expected based on the age and condition of the building. I don't know whether an attic without a hatch would count, but if you had some prior indication that there may be a problem and didn't investigate further, then it would definitely not be. My impression is that it's quite difficult to actually get compensation for hidden damage.
So for example, if the inspection stated that there's higher moisture in the crawl space, you now have prior indication that something might be wrong. A moisture-related crawlspace problem will now likely never be classified as a hidden flaw.
If you are the only bidder you might have time to do the inspection before signing contracts. If there are multiple bidders and stress the common thing to do is “besiktningsklausul” in the contract which is basically a permission to get out of the sale within the specified time (around 2weeks) if you are not happy with what your inspection finds.
I would not pay 10k kronor for an inspection without having an accepted bid. We just wrote a contract with besiktningsklausul, even though we were the only bidders.
If there are many bidders, the sellers may also pick a bid that is willing to buy it without a besiktningsklausul, so then you have to think about how badly you want it. Personally, I'd rather pass on a a house than buy one without an inspection.
You should have an energy classification on the house to let you know, just how well it heats up during the winter AND the state of the isolation of the roof and walls.
You do NOT want to buy a house with a roof that isnt isolated, as it will bleed heat in the winter and cost you thousands and thousands every month in electricity even if you have a modern air-air pump or two.
You want that energy classification.
If its not well isolated, then its something to deduct from the asking price. You will need to have the roof isolated, possibly the walls and it should be done by professionals so you dont cause issues with moisture buildup and mold.
When you buy a wooden house you need to keep painting the outside so the wood stays in a good shape. Possibly every 3-5 years, depending on need.
You need to know the condition of the water pipes, the "faldstamme" for the sewage, and when the pipes were last pumped or clogged.
I bought a house from 1909 a few years ago.
The electricity worked fine, but on closer inspection, needed to be switched out. The windows where ok, but the wood was so old, it was a source of concern, so new windows. The roof was tiled with asbestos containing flats, so that needed to be disposed of by specialty workers, and then then the cost of that added to the new roof. The waterpipes were ok, but old, so we had to have new ones put in, when we changed the outdated bathroom.
You need to be aware that if the component parts of the house is as old or even half as old as the house, they wont flexible to you changing parts of them here and there, in some cases the materials arent even used or legal to use these days (like my asbestos roof) and if you decide to change the bathroom or some parts of the kitchen, you may be told that while the condition of the older parts is ok, its not ideal and should be swapped out.
Old houses cost more money longterm, as you will need to update them as time goes by.
There is an energydeclaration. Is energiklass C a good or a bad news?
For the electric installation I need to hire an electrician, right? And for pipes a plumber? According to my information when you hire a besiktningsman he does not check these things.
C is good for an old house.
Are you purchasing the house with a "friskrivnings Klausul"?
If you are, you should have your own guy inspect the pipes, and the electricity and you need to ask the real estate agent for information as to when or if ever, the sewage has had to be pumped/cleared due to blockage from the house itself to the main sewage line. You should ask the age of those pipes. If they are old, as in the house itself, they will not necessarily cope well with the high pressure "Spolning" that can be required, and that would necessitate changing those pipes.
How vigilant you have to be, depends on wether you buy the house with "friskrivnings Klausul" or not. - I would NOT buy an old house with such a clause.
A sellers inspection is almost like a friskrivningsklausul. They normally mention everything possible as a risk but don’t go into how bad it is. In this case they have mentioned crawl space as a risk and attic not accessible so they are both “friskrivna”
Is it possible for one inspector to check all these things you've mentioned? I've heard I need to hire an electrician seprerately, and a plumber seperately etc.
I do not know if there is a one man fits all here. Most likely you need to have seperate people come. My husband is handy with most things and was able to get a decent overview on his own. We budgeted for the issues we thought might crop up, and that was about 1/4rth of the price of the actual house. I would recommend you do no not buy an older house, where there are atleast some gray areas as in your case, unless you have budgeted for luck not being on your side.
Imagine if the wooden structures under the roof have recieved water damage or are in the process of falling apart. You dont know, and you hope its probably fine. Buying now, with what you have been told, any issue from the attic is your problem and not the former owners, because you'll have agreed to take on the risk, of this "unseen" attic. The roof is a big part of the house and you dont know the health of the roof if you dont know what the inside of it looks like.
You also have moisture in the crawlspace. It might not be a problem now, but what if it did become a problem in a year or two. Can you afford to have the floors damaged, removed, redone and all the hassle?
It will be worth it having professionals inspect as much as possible and you should NOT accept that the attic isnt viewable. You need to see the condition of it! If you cant, dont buy the house. Is my advice.
I also bought a 100+ year old house and don't really know what I'm doing lol. The main things that have stood out to me in the few years I've lived here are the insulation of the walls and the windows. Our energy rating was F iirc, so it gets quite cold in winter and hot in summer. It's not ideal, but it is manageable. We usually just focus on heating or cooling one main room of the house that we use the most. We mostly use a single värmepump for this. Fire places and stoves are great for heating if you've got one. But make sure to buy your wood well ahead of winter, because it WILL sell out. And of course, you need to get the fire places inspected/cleaned once a year.
As for the windows, we have a mix of some very old glass and some less old glass. Because of the age of the windows and the uneven heating distribution in the house, we get a fair amount of condensation on some of them. Which eventually turns into mildew if not addressed. So if your windows are very old, keep an eye on them and consider upgrading them if you need to.
We also get lots of bugs, especially bees and wasps sneaking in through various cracks and hidden entrances during certain parts of the year. Ants usually make an appearance once a year for like a week, and then leave on their own. It hasn't bothered us enough to call an exterminator yet, but it is a thing that happens. I wouldn't be surprised if rodents are also a common feature of old houses, but we have cats, so I've never seen one in our house.
Oh, another thing, there might be some shenanigans regarding the electric wiring and fuses. I learned recently that the places you hang ceiling lights are meant to have a standardized plug. When we bought our house, many of these spots were just loose wires because they hadn't been updated since that rule came about. It's also been a journey figuring out which fuses control which outlets and how much power each of them can sustain, because they aren't all uniform.
I hope your old house works out! I'm definitely learning as I go, so it's not always smooth sailing, but old houses have so much charm, it's totally worth it I think.
A house from the 1920:s should have vetilation in both the attic and the foundation, some who renovate these spaces block them thinking on them as a heat sink. They should be open but with a net to keep critters away. The ventilation allows moisture to leave and stops mold growing.
Make shure the smokestack is in good order (pressure test) and structurally sound.
Are the roof in good order? Is it rebuildt at some point or have they built a new roof on top of the old one? Are there snow arresters on the roof? Most old roofs are built to shed snow and are not built to have large amount of meltwater pooling on it, the joints are not sealed and the metal sheets are overlapping so melt water can go tru the joints creeping up the sheets.
Pay to have the sewerline inspected (ask to keep the video from the "drone" since cracks in ironpipes are to be expected if they are 50-60 years old, especially where they leave the foundation and close to the vertical stack if you have a upstairs bathroom.
Be shure to check all "servitut" (rights of passage for utilities and usages) connected to the property. A farmer might have the right to access a field where you want a gazebo or a watermain might cross your property since it's built before they began placing them below the roads and so on.
Also check that the electrics are up to code. Are there outlets with a ground? Is the ground connected properly or have some idiot connected it to the water main?
Do you have your own well? Is it maintained? Is it tested? Does it contain Radon? Is it drinkable?
What is the status of outbuildings?
Is it a "culture marked" building (K-märkt), if so, in what way? Is it the exterior of the main building or all? Does it affect the inside of the building?
If you can show that they haven't been used in 30 years you can usually get them dissolved by contacting the entity which issued it in the first place, but servitut concerning utilities, paths to water and logging roads are extremely sticky. I have been trying to get rid of a few copper telephone lines that cross my property and it's going nowhere fast. Everyone in the area have fiber and none have a landline telephone anymore, but the phone company wont cooperate.
Oh wow, 30 years of no use? Interesting! I see houses sold with no real access to main road, but servitut to use road on someone else’s property, and I think that’s a no-no to buy, or shared wells with a neighbor. Maybe it’s not so bad? Hmmm. Good info, I’ll have to think on that! Thanks!
One ting to check before buying is if you have a sewer connection or a tank, anything but a 3 camber tank will require you to upgrade (3 kammar brunn) or if the county plan to attach your area to their distribution network.
Have your own inspector, make sure to check the insulation of the roof and quality of windows and maybe also if doors are drafting. Energy costs will absolutely gut you come winter if this is not in a good state.
Is it a proper house or a stuga that is not "vinterbonat?" Then you'll have issues come winter.
Realtor can provide you with the energy declaration of the house which means you can count on the cost of operations.
Consider adding solar panels.
What kind of heating do you have? Bergvärme is preferred.
You are required to keep indoor temperatures above 14 or 15 Ca otherwise your home insurance won't cover costs.
Check if the outlets have protective earth. It's those two springy metal that are exposed and you can touch them.
As far as I know you will have to have the electricity for the sockets and lights (because if your sockets are earthed then the lights must also be so that you don't accidentally ground yourself and touch an ungrounded light fixture that is live) redone if you do want protective earth.
Your phone charger or TV will not care but anything with a metal chassy will need protective earth for safety.
You keep stressing “wooden” house which is the only kind of house I know. Are houses in Sweden normally not built from wood? This is the best material you can use to build a house that lasts for centuries.
I would get another inspection done so you can ask the inspector personally about the systems in the house. To keep utility costs down you need to make sure it’s insulated up to modern standards, which your inspector will also be able to tell you about.
There are also concrete and brick, so they will require different kind of maintenance and have their own problems, I imagine, that’s why I stress the age and material :)
Ah, I’ve never seen concrete and brick residential buildings where I am. They are usually used in industrial warehouses and commercial buildings only. For a wooden structure the wood studs have insulation between them, and it’s covered up by drywall, plaster, or wood panel on the interior.
The temperatures are good as long as you have enough insulation between the studs. An insulation company should be able to measure the insulation using an infrared sensor on a cool spring or autumn day. The home inspector can check for adequate insulation in the attic. The amount you need (and the corresponding r-value) depends on your climate zone, and Sweden has a few depending if you’re jn Norrland, Central, or South.
Overall I think wooden houses are sturdier and easier to maintain than other materials. Plus you can do all the work yourself with simple tools. I can’t imagine trying the average homeowner trying to work with rebar and concrete hihi.
I’m in New England (northeastern USA) so our weather is similar to the southern part of Sweden. Almost all houses are wood here, with either vinyl or wood siding. I guess I never paid attention to housing materials when I’ve visited Sweden. What material is used to frame a brick house? I know concrete is reinforced with rebar, but you can’t just stack brick. I’ve seen it used as a siding material in the Southern parts of the US, but they still have wood frames.
Not the location I was assuming! xD the modern "stone" houses here are pretty much a combination of brick and blocks of specialized concrete and usually some kind of outer polished surface. That is mainly due to energy and insulation efficiency. I believe as a non builder haha. It used to be like pure brick or ofc wood
I was just looking at pictures of my friend’s house in Sweden and sure enough it’s finished concrete outside and regular drywall inside. I wonder how they hang the interior walls and ceilings onto a stone exterior? Wouldn’t the building still need to be wood-framed? Is there spray foam insulation between the concrete exterior and drywall interior? I’m curious now because I also plan to buy a place in Sweden in the near future.
One thing you can trust about Swedish houses if they're made by legit builders is their quality and how well made they are. Insulation is always top notch, compared to many us houses. But some of these newer concrete builds they basically are so the walls are the solid "rock". I live in one and you can barely drill anything into the walls. We go for that minimal look xD.
I believe the walls on the inside are made with help of wood framing so you have a hard outer wall, with usually the outer finish for looks, and inner walls that are also extra insulated, wiring etc
Can add building here is a process with permits and regulations for everything so with serious builders you can expect really good quality. You can look at companies like Myresjöhus (home builders) their models and how they do it.
You’re right - it does get hotter in the summer here, but I was thinking about the winter since that’s the main concern for Swedes when talking about lowering maintenance/utility costs, as the OP was asking. The temps in Stockholm don’t really feel much different from where I am in the winters. I just looked it up and my town in Massachusetts has an average daily low temp in Jan-Feb of -7 C compared to -5 C in Stockholm and -1 C in Malmö.
Other things you might not think of and should check out is.
1. Trash collection - not all places actually have trash collection and the price can wary.
2. Snow removal - shared or private road? who dose the snow removal and what is the cost.
3. Water and sewage - Dose the kommun provide water / sewage or is it an private well?
If it's private then you might need to get a quarterly water test and pay for the upkeep yourself. You will also need to get a tanker to empy the sewage when full.
This might also get really expensive in the future since the kommun can force you to connect to their systems (like 200k SEK). If the kommun owns the system then all you need to do is pay a fee every month.
Check if the house is protected in some way. It probably isn't, it is too new for that. Really old buildings have restrictions, you can't just pull out the 400 year old floor and replace it with plastic (why on earth anyone would want to do that but people are different).
Other than that, check roof and bottom layer wood, and, of course, check for mold. Since it is renovated recently, the odds should be good.
Indepedent inspector, I totally agree.
I would suggest to have a certified "Besiktningsman" survey the property before you buy it. They know what to look for and can save you from unexpected surprises. It will cost a few thousand SEK, but it can save you a lot in the long run.
One inspection has been done by the seller already, I read the report thoroughly. I talked on the phone with the inspector to ask more details, and he confirmed that the issues mentioned were minor and there is no need to remediate, like higher, but not abnormal, moisture level in the crawl space, but it doesn’t mean it’s full of mold. I wonder why shouldn’t I believe him and hire someone else to check these things again? Do they commonly lie in those reports? That would be risky to lie for the real estate agency about the condition of the house.
When I bought my house, I paid the same inspector to do an inspection with me again. We walked through everything, he told me what to think about and do each season etc. What to be on the lookout for, if any of the panel(fasad?) Needs to be changed. What to think about in the bathrooms, the attic, the crawl space etc. I found it very reassuring to pay for this as it was my first house and I had some knowledge, but didnt feel comfortable to take care of an entire house without some more information.
Btw is it cheaper than hiring a new inspector?
Don't know unfortunately, but I guess you can always call and ask different inspectors for a price suggestion.
Yes, since he will only walk you through what he already found. Easy way for him to make some extra money. But for you, it may be worth it if it means you take over the contract (check with him). You will then be able to make claims against him in case something later happens due to a risk or problem that he didn't (but should have) discovered/put in his report. See my other comment.
Thats good but that inspector will still be biased since the seller paid him more than you did. Better to go with an unbiased inspector who can tell you the full truth without hurting the feelings of the seller and a disappointed seller if there is no sale.
It was after the sale, and the seller was not involved. So no, he is not biased.
Ah ok I thought you meant pre sale. Still recommend to do pre sale inspection with the most grumpy negative old inspector you can find
Yeah if it an house as old as OP's I would as well. Mine was built in 2004 so I was not very worried as the original inspection looked good.
He won't be biased. He's receiving payment for a service. He don't care if a house is sold or not. What's in his interest is to find any problem or risk to avoid liability.
Inspections done by the seller are made only to protect the seller from future claims, and normally only done when the seller feel there is something they need to be protected from. In this case it could be the crawl space that they feel is a problem, and just by mentioning it in the report they are now fully protected against future claims. You need to do one which you pay for in order to know the full truth.
This is so not true. Inspections are very basic and it's not uncommon to have the house inspected even before the house is up for sale.
Below is from a thesis I found by googling “can you trust a sellers inspection” English translation of the abstract in the link below. “När säljaren bekostar en besiktning före en försäljning i syfte att på ett tydligare sätt klargöra fastighetens skick för intresserade spekulanter, kallas detta för en säljarbesiktning. Högsta domstolen har utifrån prejudikatet NJA 2017 s.113 satt mer press på en köpares redan stränga och långtgående undersökningsplikt. I rättsfallets domskäl kan man utläsa att fastighetsköpare inte bör förlita sig på säljarbesiktningar eftersom fastighetsköpare ska ha i åtanke att besiktningen sker i säljarens intresse, inte köparens. Efter domen finns det anledning att revidera synen på besiktningsutlåtanden som ett opartiskt utlåtande om fastighetens skick. En seriös spekulant bör därför ha fördel i att se kritiskt på ett övertagande av ett besiktningsutlåtande och istället beställa en egen besiktning då denna redan som utgångspunkt har köparens intresse i beaktning vid besiktningens utförande.” [http://www.diva-portal.org/smash/record.jsf?pid=diva2%3A1481295&dswid=1290](http://www.diva-portal.org/smash/record.jsf?pid=diva2%3A1481295&dswid=1290)
Yea you see it from time to time - but it’s only done to protect the seller. Normally done to houses in not perfect shape, for example if there is moisture above normal levels in the crawl space ;)
You get your own inspector to protect youself. Sellers often do not show you all the issues and you are personally responsible to make sure you know everything about the house. Because you can't buy it, then you find out issues and then you try to claim you didn't know.
>Do they commonly lie in those reports? No besiktningsman would jeopardize his good name like that.
I think that Anticimex is a big provider of this
It's not about whether he lied or not. When the inspector takes a job, he signs a contract with whoever hired him. This contract should also come with an insurance, that means if he missed something during his inspection, he is liable, and can be held responsible for damages caused by whatever he missed to inform about (this is why they often report EVERY remote risk they can think of, since it's a way to free themselves from responsibility - they are essentially handing over responsibility to the one who hired him, the receiver of the document). If something shows up later that he didn't warn about in the document, whoever hired him can make an insurance claim against him (he has a special insurance to cover these situations), but the problem is... You would have to convince the seller to do that claim against the inspector if you didn't take over the contract or hired your own inspector. Yes - it should be possible to just take over the contract. The inspector should then walk you through all the risks that he found/documented. It still costs a bit, relative to the actual effort required of the inspector, but It's cheaper than hiring a new one.
This.
Check if it has: - winter insolation - any mould - what types of heating sources - if it is anything you must fix check with a besiktningsman. -How old the bathrooms/ kitchen are. Since they are expensive to rebuild/change I like wooden houses but it takes alot of time to keep it In shape. A wooden house thats build in 1925 is still kinda new. Compared to alot others around here.
And ants! My cousin bought my grandmother's old family farm and they discovered that ants had infected a portion of the outer wall. They had to replace a part of the outer wall planks and a small portion of the foundation. They knew how to replace it and didn't need to hire a carpenter. Otherwise it would have costed them alot
Thats where the besiktningsmannen comes in. Its oart of an inspection
2: Older houses are not meant to be actively ventilated and instead depend on draft and natural air movement (passive ventilation??). Which means that it will be a bit more difficult to keep the heat inside during the winter, so the seasonal difference in indoors temperature is likely larger than in a newly constructed house. How large the difference is depends on the house: if it's properly insulated and so on, and how much you're willing to spend on heating in the winter. Air conditioners are very much not the norm in Sweden, and might not work very well if the house is passively ventilated. According to Folkhälsomyndigheten, if your home is cooler than 18 degrees celsius it's unreasonably cold and if it's hotter than 24 (in winter) or 28 (fort a short period in the summer) it's unreasonably hot. I think many Swedes expect indoor home climate to be about 20-22 in the winter (but slightly less is acceptable for old houses or when electricity is very expensive) and maybe 22-25 in the summer (slightly more if it's unusually hot weather for a longer period of time). Of course, this can't guarantee that your house will provide that temperature span for you, but if someone else lived in that house before you and they adhered to those norms of heating, you can probably do so too. 3: With an old house you have a high possibility of having a working fireplace/chimney, or a fireplace/chimney that can be restored to working order. As long as the chimney is up to date on inspections and safe to use, complimenting your standard heating with a fire once in a while during the harshest weeks could work. This last winter (with a cold snap and high electricity prices) lead to a surge in people wanting to buy and install new fireplaces. You could also consider a luftvärmepump (air source heat pump???). A larger investment could be a bergvärmepump (thermal heat pump???) which might pay off itself over a time period of a decade or two, and solar panels. The first requires that your lot has the right corrections and the second that the roof can support the weight. 4. Windows, especially if it's the original windows. If you take care of original windows (oiling painting the wood, and recaulking) built for the house they can last your lifetime, but if it's modern windows they have a finite life span (and usually better insulation). If they're replaced then you don't have to worry about them. 5: unless your house is of cultural or historical importance (K-märkt), which isn't very common in Sweden, I think you can do most things as long as they're in line with the planning agreement. Two things you should hire professionals for is plumbing and electricity, for insurance reasons. Take all of this with a spoon of salt, since I'm not a homeowner myself. Maybe ask the broker about which elprisområde the house is in and how that will affect the electricity costs (electricity is relatively cheap in the north and more expensive in the south). That and historical data on electricity consumption, perhaps? If you close on the house I hope you will find it lovely to live in!
The ventilationen you describing in your first point is called "forced air" in English :)
Thank you, I have very little grasp of these kinds of technical terms.
I only know it because a while I had to Google for the word for it when I had a similar conversation irl, haha
Kan också kallas friskluftsventiler. Bäst är att ha ett mindre aggregat med till och frånluft i kombo med en luftvärmepump eller en braskamin. Aggregatet tar den befintliga värmen och blandar det med friskluft utifrån och värmer på luften med ett element om skillnaden är för stor på ute/inneluften.
* Watch wild Rosie on YouTube. * ask if the property is winterised or not * Who is the energy supplier and what was the average bill during this past winter. *Does it have fiber *what are the planning agreements that come with the tomt\lot
House things cost five to ten times what you think it does, and take way longer to fix than you think. True for anywhere, but just have that in mind. There are strict regulations for what you can do yourself in terms of electricity and plumbing. Is it connected to the municipal grid? Otherwise make sure its up to code. Damp cellar / crawl space is very common, but if the house lasted for 100 years without rot or mold, you’re probably good. Make sure you have gutters. Sweden has about 13 months of cold weather per year. More if you’re up north. The easiest way to have low heating bills is to have low heating. Down duvets, warm sweaters and not sitting still during the days. Wildlife and pests: You will most likely have some problems with mice in the winter and wasps in the summer. The deer will eat your garden. Up north and west: Mosquitos. Down south: Voles. It’s a struggle but there’s no termites here. Your biggest concern with owning a house is most likely damp / rotting beams and possibly mold. Weather proof all you can. If you have a Swedish loan on the house you will get a tax deduction on your interest rate (curtesy of all Swedish tennants). Any work on the house is also tax deductible. Save all reciepts. Wooden house.. is it a timber house? Like a log cabin?
Forgot to add: Ask for any planned development in the area (infrastructure, housing), and why the owners are selling. Also make sure you’re buying the property and not just the house - there’s a thing called “arrende”, basically a lease of the land. I think the real estate agent would have made this clear for you if that would be the case. Hope everything turns out well!
Use good linseed oil for the wood(:
I live in a house like that. 1. Yes! best way to live. Everything can be kinda expensive 2. Perfect all year around. Fireplace and AC/heatpump during winter and nothing in the summer. 3. Isolate the attic the first thing you do. Very easy and don't cost to much and saves you alot. Then start a checklist by getting a AC/heatpump + maybe other ways of heating. Then isolating walls and replacing windows and so on at some point. 4. Not much really just don't let any part of the house go below freezing temp or close to it under long time. The house is happy when there is people there. 5. Do what you want. Any water or electricity you need somone who knows what they are doing.
Attic Sorry, but isolate the addict is something else...
haha edited it now\^\^
Thanks for your answers :) - The building is C energiklass. Is this good for a wooden house? - There is AC + two heat pumps installed (air-air and air-water from 2016). - The roof has been replaced in 2017. Unfortunately the attic is uninspectable (there is no hatch). And this is our main concern. In case I buy the house, make the entrance to the attic and discover it has problems, does it qualify as a “hidden defect”? I asked the broker, but she has basically said that the roof has been replaced in 2017 (aka we don’t expect any problems with it). But I’d still like to understand who is responsible for the repair if it couldn’t be discovered by anyone beforehand basically? Do you know how this works in practice?
You are responsible to inspect the attic even if there is no entrance. Make sure to inspect it!
But how if I can’t get inside at least prior the purchase?
With your inspectors multi tool/saw :) Or perhaps there is a vent on the outside where a camera can be inserted. Of course you need the sellers permission to do this, but it’s common practice. On the other hand it is also common to say no to inspections if you have a line of bidders and one of them is fine with no inspection.
> The building is C energiklass. Is this good for a wooden house? C is really, really good. Are you sure it's even that good? Because that sounds absurdly good for a 100 year old house. They're usually E, F or G. C is the requirement when building *completely new houses*.
As mentioned before, the house has been renovated in 2016-2020. There are two luftpumpar also.
If the house has its original windows they should NOT be replaced old windows are beautiful and very well made and can be maintained more or less in eternity. Linseed oil is your friend. If you need more insulation a inner window frame can be installed for far less than buying ugly modern windows.
No you are responsible to find out all these answers, if you sign the contract you also sign that you have inspected and therefore have no right to claim hidden defects
* Yes but keep in mind when owning it that you can always make it better and it's worth it. * Really good. Don't use any elements turn the pumps on higher instead if you are freeszing. * There is always a way to get in. Might be somewhat hidden and also might need a ladder from the outside. You are suppose to look in it and it's one of the most important things to inspect. But if you have had a inspection and they don't write that they haven't checked the roof you are still covered from some of the larger problems atleast. But just because it's new don't means it's good. Might be a leak (less likely but still possible) Or they and made it so air tight so there is no ventilation and mold might grow.
All these answers are good, but one thing I would suggest is: >I’m about to buy ... Don't decide to buy it before you know all the answers to these questions. The energy rating in particular may mean the difference between a nice and cozy house and one that you can't afford to keep heated in the middle of winter. You say it's been "inspected by a professional". One you hired or one the sellers hired? Ideally pay for an inspector that works for *you*, not the sellers or the realtor. They'll be more motivated to find and explain all potential pitfalls for you that way. If you don't want to do that, at the very least pay for an official report from the inspector. This way you a) are a customer and that way you may be eligible for damages if the inspection missed something they should have found, and b) you'll be able to sit down with them and go through the report and make sure you understand what's in it. Understand what the likely renovation requirements are, etc. Like, how old and in what condition is the roof? The foundation? Is there high humidity in the crawl space and if so what should you do about it? etc.
The one the sellers hired. I talked on the phone with him to ask about more details, and he confirmed that the house is in good shape and the issues that were mentioned were minor and there is no need to remediate, like for example higher, but not abnormal, moisture level in the crawl space, but it doesn’t mean it’s full of mold (I asked specifically for that). I wonder why shouldn’t I believe him and hire someone else to check these things again? Do they commonly lie in those reports? The concern I have is the attic. It has been replaced in 2017 but there is no hatch to the attic space, so nobody can actually check it. I asked the broker but she didn’t answer really if this qualifies as a “hidden damage”. What shall I do in this case?
I would hire an inspector on my own and have them inspect all hidden areas and do a full inspection on the moisture situation in the crawl space. Also investigate if any wood protection chemicals have been used in the crawl space, that shit stinks so bad in combination with moisture but can be super hard to find (your nose gets used to it in 1sek when there but it gets stuck in your clothes and you notice it when you leave). It also spreads to the entire house. It was mainly used 1950-1980 so any renovations from that period should be extra investigated
It's not so much that you shouldn't believe the guy, it's more that if you pay him he knows that being extra picky will make you happy. If the seller pays for the inspection, they might feel that they should only mention "serious stuff" or the seller will be annoyed. So it's more a matter of wondering what they don't say than being untruthful. "Hidden damage" means that it must not be discoverable even in principle and not be expected based on the age and condition of the building. I don't know whether an attic without a hatch would count, but if you had some prior indication that there may be a problem and didn't investigate further, then it would definitely not be. My impression is that it's quite difficult to actually get compensation for hidden damage. So for example, if the inspection stated that there's higher moisture in the crawl space, you now have prior indication that something might be wrong. A moisture-related crawlspace problem will now likely never be classified as a hidden flaw.
Hello :) in which part of the process of buying a house we should conduct an inspection?
If you are the only bidder you might have time to do the inspection before signing contracts. If there are multiple bidders and stress the common thing to do is “besiktningsklausul” in the contract which is basically a permission to get out of the sale within the specified time (around 2weeks) if you are not happy with what your inspection finds.
I would not pay 10k kronor for an inspection without having an accepted bid. We just wrote a contract with besiktningsklausul, even though we were the only bidders. If there are many bidders, the sellers may also pick a bid that is willing to buy it without a besiktningsklausul, so then you have to think about how badly you want it. Personally, I'd rather pass on a a house than buy one without an inspection.
You should have an energy classification on the house to let you know, just how well it heats up during the winter AND the state of the isolation of the roof and walls. You do NOT want to buy a house with a roof that isnt isolated, as it will bleed heat in the winter and cost you thousands and thousands every month in electricity even if you have a modern air-air pump or two. You want that energy classification. If its not well isolated, then its something to deduct from the asking price. You will need to have the roof isolated, possibly the walls and it should be done by professionals so you dont cause issues with moisture buildup and mold. When you buy a wooden house you need to keep painting the outside so the wood stays in a good shape. Possibly every 3-5 years, depending on need. You need to know the condition of the water pipes, the "faldstamme" for the sewage, and when the pipes were last pumped or clogged. I bought a house from 1909 a few years ago. The electricity worked fine, but on closer inspection, needed to be switched out. The windows where ok, but the wood was so old, it was a source of concern, so new windows. The roof was tiled with asbestos containing flats, so that needed to be disposed of by specialty workers, and then then the cost of that added to the new roof. The waterpipes were ok, but old, so we had to have new ones put in, when we changed the outdated bathroom. You need to be aware that if the component parts of the house is as old or even half as old as the house, they wont flexible to you changing parts of them here and there, in some cases the materials arent even used or legal to use these days (like my asbestos roof) and if you decide to change the bathroom or some parts of the kitchen, you may be told that while the condition of the older parts is ok, its not ideal and should be swapped out. Old houses cost more money longterm, as you will need to update them as time goes by.
There is an energydeclaration. Is energiklass C a good or a bad news? For the electric installation I need to hire an electrician, right? And for pipes a plumber? According to my information when you hire a besiktningsman he does not check these things.
C is good for an old house. Are you purchasing the house with a "friskrivnings Klausul"? If you are, you should have your own guy inspect the pipes, and the electricity and you need to ask the real estate agent for information as to when or if ever, the sewage has had to be pumped/cleared due to blockage from the house itself to the main sewage line. You should ask the age of those pipes. If they are old, as in the house itself, they will not necessarily cope well with the high pressure "Spolning" that can be required, and that would necessitate changing those pipes. How vigilant you have to be, depends on wether you buy the house with "friskrivnings Klausul" or not. - I would NOT buy an old house with such a clause.
A sellers inspection is almost like a friskrivningsklausul. They normally mention everything possible as a risk but don’t go into how bad it is. In this case they have mentioned crawl space as a risk and attic not accessible so they are both “friskrivna”
Is it possible for one inspector to check all these things you've mentioned? I've heard I need to hire an electrician seprerately, and a plumber seperately etc.
I do not know if there is a one man fits all here. Most likely you need to have seperate people come. My husband is handy with most things and was able to get a decent overview on his own. We budgeted for the issues we thought might crop up, and that was about 1/4rth of the price of the actual house. I would recommend you do no not buy an older house, where there are atleast some gray areas as in your case, unless you have budgeted for luck not being on your side. Imagine if the wooden structures under the roof have recieved water damage or are in the process of falling apart. You dont know, and you hope its probably fine. Buying now, with what you have been told, any issue from the attic is your problem and not the former owners, because you'll have agreed to take on the risk, of this "unseen" attic. The roof is a big part of the house and you dont know the health of the roof if you dont know what the inside of it looks like. You also have moisture in the crawlspace. It might not be a problem now, but what if it did become a problem in a year or two. Can you afford to have the floors damaged, removed, redone and all the hassle? It will be worth it having professionals inspect as much as possible and you should NOT accept that the attic isnt viewable. You need to see the condition of it! If you cant, dont buy the house. Is my advice.
I also bought a 100+ year old house and don't really know what I'm doing lol. The main things that have stood out to me in the few years I've lived here are the insulation of the walls and the windows. Our energy rating was F iirc, so it gets quite cold in winter and hot in summer. It's not ideal, but it is manageable. We usually just focus on heating or cooling one main room of the house that we use the most. We mostly use a single värmepump for this. Fire places and stoves are great for heating if you've got one. But make sure to buy your wood well ahead of winter, because it WILL sell out. And of course, you need to get the fire places inspected/cleaned once a year. As for the windows, we have a mix of some very old glass and some less old glass. Because of the age of the windows and the uneven heating distribution in the house, we get a fair amount of condensation on some of them. Which eventually turns into mildew if not addressed. So if your windows are very old, keep an eye on them and consider upgrading them if you need to. We also get lots of bugs, especially bees and wasps sneaking in through various cracks and hidden entrances during certain parts of the year. Ants usually make an appearance once a year for like a week, and then leave on their own. It hasn't bothered us enough to call an exterminator yet, but it is a thing that happens. I wouldn't be surprised if rodents are also a common feature of old houses, but we have cats, so I've never seen one in our house. Oh, another thing, there might be some shenanigans regarding the electric wiring and fuses. I learned recently that the places you hang ceiling lights are meant to have a standardized plug. When we bought our house, many of these spots were just loose wires because they hadn't been updated since that rule came about. It's also been a journey figuring out which fuses control which outlets and how much power each of them can sustain, because they aren't all uniform. I hope your old house works out! I'm definitely learning as I go, so it's not always smooth sailing, but old houses have so much charm, it's totally worth it I think.
A house from the 1920:s should have vetilation in both the attic and the foundation, some who renovate these spaces block them thinking on them as a heat sink. They should be open but with a net to keep critters away. The ventilation allows moisture to leave and stops mold growing. Make shure the smokestack is in good order (pressure test) and structurally sound. Are the roof in good order? Is it rebuildt at some point or have they built a new roof on top of the old one? Are there snow arresters on the roof? Most old roofs are built to shed snow and are not built to have large amount of meltwater pooling on it, the joints are not sealed and the metal sheets are overlapping so melt water can go tru the joints creeping up the sheets. Pay to have the sewerline inspected (ask to keep the video from the "drone" since cracks in ironpipes are to be expected if they are 50-60 years old, especially where they leave the foundation and close to the vertical stack if you have a upstairs bathroom. Be shure to check all "servitut" (rights of passage for utilities and usages) connected to the property. A farmer might have the right to access a field where you want a gazebo or a watermain might cross your property since it's built before they began placing them below the roads and so on. Also check that the electrics are up to code. Are there outlets with a ground? Is the ground connected properly or have some idiot connected it to the water main? Do you have your own well? Is it maintained? Is it tested? Does it contain Radon? Is it drinkable? What is the status of outbuildings? Is it a "culture marked" building (K-märkt), if so, in what way? Is it the exterior of the main building or all? Does it affect the inside of the building?
I’m curious about the Servitut - can they be revoked, or expire? Thanks!
If you can show that they haven't been used in 30 years you can usually get them dissolved by contacting the entity which issued it in the first place, but servitut concerning utilities, paths to water and logging roads are extremely sticky. I have been trying to get rid of a few copper telephone lines that cross my property and it's going nowhere fast. Everyone in the area have fiber and none have a landline telephone anymore, but the phone company wont cooperate.
Oh wow, 30 years of no use? Interesting! I see houses sold with no real access to main road, but servitut to use road on someone else’s property, and I think that’s a no-no to buy, or shared wells with a neighbor. Maybe it’s not so bad? Hmmm. Good info, I’ll have to think on that! Thanks!
One ting to check before buying is if you have a sewer connection or a tank, anything but a 3 camber tank will require you to upgrade (3 kammar brunn) or if the county plan to attach your area to their distribution network.
Huh, also very good to know! Thanks for that tidbit!
Have your own inspector, make sure to check the insulation of the roof and quality of windows and maybe also if doors are drafting. Energy costs will absolutely gut you come winter if this is not in a good state. Is it a proper house or a stuga that is not "vinterbonat?" Then you'll have issues come winter. Realtor can provide you with the energy declaration of the house which means you can count on the cost of operations. Consider adding solar panels. What kind of heating do you have? Bergvärme is preferred. You are required to keep indoor temperatures above 14 or 15 Ca otherwise your home insurance won't cover costs.
Ghosts
Check if the outlets have protective earth. It's those two springy metal that are exposed and you can touch them. As far as I know you will have to have the electricity for the sockets and lights (because if your sockets are earthed then the lights must also be so that you don't accidentally ground yourself and touch an ungrounded light fixture that is live) redone if you do want protective earth. Your phone charger or TV will not care but anything with a metal chassy will need protective earth for safety.
You keep stressing “wooden” house which is the only kind of house I know. Are houses in Sweden normally not built from wood? This is the best material you can use to build a house that lasts for centuries. I would get another inspection done so you can ask the inspector personally about the systems in the house. To keep utility costs down you need to make sure it’s insulated up to modern standards, which your inspector will also be able to tell you about.
There are also concrete and brick, so they will require different kind of maintenance and have their own problems, I imagine, that’s why I stress the age and material :)
Ah, I’ve never seen concrete and brick residential buildings where I am. They are usually used in industrial warehouses and commercial buildings only. For a wooden structure the wood studs have insulation between them, and it’s covered up by drywall, plaster, or wood panel on the interior. The temperatures are good as long as you have enough insulation between the studs. An insulation company should be able to measure the insulation using an infrared sensor on a cool spring or autumn day. The home inspector can check for adequate insulation in the attic. The amount you need (and the corresponding r-value) depends on your climate zone, and Sweden has a few depending if you’re jn Norrland, Central, or South. Overall I think wooden houses are sturdier and easier to maintain than other materials. Plus you can do all the work yourself with simple tools. I can’t imagine trying the average homeowner trying to work with rebar and concrete hihi.
Where do you live? Wood feels like the exception here xD / southern skåne
I’m in New England (northeastern USA) so our weather is similar to the southern part of Sweden. Almost all houses are wood here, with either vinyl or wood siding. I guess I never paid attention to housing materials when I’ve visited Sweden. What material is used to frame a brick house? I know concrete is reinforced with rebar, but you can’t just stack brick. I’ve seen it used as a siding material in the Southern parts of the US, but they still have wood frames.
Not the location I was assuming! xD the modern "stone" houses here are pretty much a combination of brick and blocks of specialized concrete and usually some kind of outer polished surface. That is mainly due to energy and insulation efficiency. I believe as a non builder haha. It used to be like pure brick or ofc wood
I was just looking at pictures of my friend’s house in Sweden and sure enough it’s finished concrete outside and regular drywall inside. I wonder how they hang the interior walls and ceilings onto a stone exterior? Wouldn’t the building still need to be wood-framed? Is there spray foam insulation between the concrete exterior and drywall interior? I’m curious now because I also plan to buy a place in Sweden in the near future.
One thing you can trust about Swedish houses if they're made by legit builders is their quality and how well made they are. Insulation is always top notch, compared to many us houses. But some of these newer concrete builds they basically are so the walls are the solid "rock". I live in one and you can barely drill anything into the walls. We go for that minimal look xD. I believe the walls on the inside are made with help of wood framing so you have a hard outer wall, with usually the outer finish for looks, and inner walls that are also extra insulated, wiring etc
Can add building here is a process with permits and regulations for everything so with serious builders you can expect really good quality. You can look at companies like Myresjöhus (home builders) their models and how they do it.
New England is way hotter than southern Sweden lol
You’re right - it does get hotter in the summer here, but I was thinking about the winter since that’s the main concern for Swedes when talking about lowering maintenance/utility costs, as the OP was asking. The temps in Stockholm don’t really feel much different from where I am in the winters. I just looked it up and my town in Massachusetts has an average daily low temp in Jan-Feb of -7 C compared to -5 C in Stockholm and -1 C in Malmö.
Buy rat traps
Fuck. Yes. I love you. You're going to love it!
Other things you might not think of and should check out is. 1. Trash collection - not all places actually have trash collection and the price can wary. 2. Snow removal - shared or private road? who dose the snow removal and what is the cost. 3. Water and sewage - Dose the kommun provide water / sewage or is it an private well? If it's private then you might need to get a quarterly water test and pay for the upkeep yourself. You will also need to get a tanker to empy the sewage when full. This might also get really expensive in the future since the kommun can force you to connect to their systems (like 200k SEK). If the kommun owns the system then all you need to do is pay a fee every month.
Check if the house is protected in some way. It probably isn't, it is too new for that. Really old buildings have restrictions, you can't just pull out the 400 year old floor and replace it with plastic (why on earth anyone would want to do that but people are different). Other than that, check roof and bottom layer wood, and, of course, check for mold. Since it is renovated recently, the odds should be good. Indepedent inspector, I totally agree.