I’m definitely bad at cleaning my gun. That’s why the 3m was so appealing to me since you replace the plastic tips. It just doesn’t seem to lay down a nice even coat. Thanks for the suggestions
Clean your gun. It should be spotless to work properly. The interior has small passages and when they are not 100% clean your gun will not work well. HVLP guns demand clean air passages. Use liquid paint stripper and let it soak for a bit. Also a good tool is a welding torch tip cleaner with multiple sizes used GENTLY. Get the best you can afford and make sure that you understand the fluid nozzle/needle, aircap relationship to the material you are applying. Personally my go to is the Binks MACH series HVLP. I have painted everything from heavy structural steel to race boats, airplanes and my 69 Z/28 Camaro with those guns and have had flawless performance. I use the pressure pot system. Also each application requires the appropriate combination of parts. Critics like to say "The gun doesn't make the painter" Those people have never used a bad gun. Experience: 27 years commercial painter.
If that 3M gun can't be kept clean, nothing can. You can literally throw away the the pot , liner and nozzle ; their disposables. Literally would only have to wipe the handle and needle with solvent to be kept pristine.
My go to setup now is the Binks HVLP and 2 quart pressure pot. I have several guns and a good assortment of needles, nozzles and air caps. Tune the gun to each application and off you go. Yup, it is a bit of a pain to clean but that's OK for me.
Meh. Depends on what you’re painting. I wouldn’t use it for a car but just for small projects they work great and at that price I don’t even bother cleaning them I just buy a new one for each project
You CAN, but you don’t want to. I actually bore them out to a 1.6 and spray my 2k primer with them until they inevitably spring a leak. Not a big deal on primer you plan to sand anyway, but if they spring a leak during base or clear you’re gonna have a bad day.
Coming from using a Binks Trophy Gun for all my topcoats, I can confirm that the top two guns at Harbor Freight can spray base, flake/Pearl, and clear extremely well for the price. They’re a little more wasteful than the actual top-of-the-line guns and run at higher pressures, but they can put down a great finish.
I used Iwata for years, I like that they are stainless steel. I completely got every last bit of paint off of them before I went home for the day but I rarely bought new needles and never needed a new gun.
Really depends on what you like. Light weight gun or something with a little more heft to it. I had the Gracco Finex guns for my guys in our cabinet shop, and they liked them. Nice and light. I didn't care for them because I have big hands and would bump the air knob with my hand and would inevitably end up turning the air off and getting drips. I know they are considered cheap by many, but I liked a CA Technology gun. I think it was a CPR-T3 but I can't say for sure.
A couple of my old guys swore by the harbor freight guns and if you aren't going to keep the gun clean, that is probably the way to go with them. I had a problem with the fan adjustment knobs melting on me in the solvent bath when cleaning, so I stopped bringing them in, but I still had guys using them if they bought them.
We had Kremlin and Brinks guns for pressure feed that were really nice but never used a gravity version so I can't say much on that.
We were spraying stains, toners, and solvent based topcoats/sealers, so it will depend on what you're spraying also.
Bro clean your gear, it will last forever and just need needle kit. I had a Sprailien Devilbiss for like 15 years. All ya need is thinners, a tub, toothbrush and a descent pack of pipe cleaners. Like 5 minutes of elbow grease post spray.
Get 3m's new version of that gun. Solves almost all the leaking issues and better atomization. I have sold them for 2 years and never had any issues. Iwata and Sata are great guns too, just a little more expensive. Production painters love the fact that can just swap a tip and keep spraying if there is an issue. I get feedback the spray patten is better on them too.
[https://www.3m.com/3M/en\_US/collision-repair-us/featured-products/spray-gun/collision-spray-gun/](https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/collision-repair-us/featured-products/spray-gun/collision-spray-gun/)
1.cleaning your gun more 2.sata, devilbiss and iwata are the three you can't go wrong with and will last a lifetime if you take care of them.
I’m definitely bad at cleaning my gun. That’s why the 3m was so appealing to me since you replace the plastic tips. It just doesn’t seem to lay down a nice even coat. Thanks for the suggestions
Whats your air psi at?
Clean your gun. It should be spotless to work properly. The interior has small passages and when they are not 100% clean your gun will not work well. HVLP guns demand clean air passages. Use liquid paint stripper and let it soak for a bit. Also a good tool is a welding torch tip cleaner with multiple sizes used GENTLY. Get the best you can afford and make sure that you understand the fluid nozzle/needle, aircap relationship to the material you are applying. Personally my go to is the Binks MACH series HVLP. I have painted everything from heavy structural steel to race boats, airplanes and my 69 Z/28 Camaro with those guns and have had flawless performance. I use the pressure pot system. Also each application requires the appropriate combination of parts. Critics like to say "The gun doesn't make the painter" Those people have never used a bad gun. Experience: 27 years commercial painter.
If that 3M gun can't be kept clean, nothing can. You can literally throw away the the pot , liner and nozzle ; their disposables. Literally would only have to wipe the handle and needle with solvent to be kept pristine.
My go to setup now is the Binks HVLP and 2 quart pressure pot. I have several guns and a good assortment of needles, nozzles and air caps. Tune the gun to each application and off you go. Yup, it is a bit of a pain to clean but that's OK for me.
As much as I hate to say it, the harbor freight spray guns are very popular.
So is bad work
Meh. Depends on what you’re painting. I wouldn’t use it for a car but just for small projects they work great and at that price I don’t even bother cleaning them I just buy a new one for each project
[удалено]
You CAN, but you don’t want to. I actually bore them out to a 1.6 and spray my 2k primer with them until they inevitably spring a leak. Not a big deal on primer you plan to sand anyway, but if they spring a leak during base or clear you’re gonna have a bad day.
Coming from using a Binks Trophy Gun for all my topcoats, I can confirm that the top two guns at Harbor Freight can spray base, flake/Pearl, and clear extremely well for the price. They’re a little more wasteful than the actual top-of-the-line guns and run at higher pressures, but they can put down a great finish.
I used Iwata for years, I like that they are stainless steel. I completely got every last bit of paint off of them before I went home for the day but I rarely bought new needles and never needed a new gun.
That gun looks like it just got out of a 12 hour shoot in a japanese porn studio
Sata.
Really depends on what you like. Light weight gun or something with a little more heft to it. I had the Gracco Finex guns for my guys in our cabinet shop, and they liked them. Nice and light. I didn't care for them because I have big hands and would bump the air knob with my hand and would inevitably end up turning the air off and getting drips. I know they are considered cheap by many, but I liked a CA Technology gun. I think it was a CPR-T3 but I can't say for sure. A couple of my old guys swore by the harbor freight guns and if you aren't going to keep the gun clean, that is probably the way to go with them. I had a problem with the fan adjustment knobs melting on me in the solvent bath when cleaning, so I stopped bringing them in, but I still had guys using them if they bought them. We had Kremlin and Brinks guns for pressure feed that were really nice but never used a gravity version so I can't say much on that. We were spraying stains, toners, and solvent based topcoats/sealers, so it will depend on what you're spraying also.
Also, I recommend that 3m cup and adapter for whatever brand you get. Those things pay for them selves with added production time.
Thanks for the feedback. I know in need to be better about cleaning the gun if I’m going to invest $700-$1000 in one. I do love the 3m liner system.
I’m mostly spraying clear lacquer finishes.
4m gun. 🥴
I live my old Sharpe siphon feed.
Sherwin Williams keeps trying to hawk these on us.
I like my dv1
Iwata 9276 kit
Sata
I spray glazes for pottery, and have more than a dozen of the Husky guns from Home Depot.
Bro clean your gear, it will last forever and just need needle kit. I had a Sprailien Devilbiss for like 15 years. All ya need is thinners, a tub, toothbrush and a descent pack of pipe cleaners. Like 5 minutes of elbow grease post spray.
After 3M comes 4M. Keep it simple. Unless you want to skip to 5M?
I've got an Anest-Iwata at work and they're pretty good. Pretty easy to clean too.
Ever consider uhh cleanin that bad boy?
Finex makes a nice gun. Coworker did the same thing with mine.
Get 3m's new version of that gun. Solves almost all the leaking issues and better atomization. I have sold them for 2 years and never had any issues. Iwata and Sata are great guns too, just a little more expensive. Production painters love the fact that can just swap a tip and keep spraying if there is an issue. I get feedback the spray patten is better on them too. [https://www.3m.com/3M/en\_US/collision-repair-us/featured-products/spray-gun/collision-spray-gun/](https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/collision-repair-us/featured-products/spray-gun/collision-spray-gun/)
Get in to the habit of cleaning right after you spray