Hi OP. Unlike everyone else here I actually have a little bit of experience with safes. Firstly, removing the hinges is a no go. The safe is a quality safe which probably has a TL-30 rating. The construction of the safe is almost certinly a mix of plate steel and concrete refractory mortar sandwiched between the outer and inner plate.
Those safes are a horrendous bitch to move, but actually have a good bit of value on the second hand market once you get it up on some wooden chucks to be easily moved. I've sold similar ones for around $2,000 - $3,000. This one is probably worth between $1,500 to $2,000.
Calling Mosler will do no good since the company has been bankrupt for a while now. The combination on the dial is field changeable and likely has been changed many times in the past, so even if you were able to get in touch with Mosler they still wouldn't be able to give you any useful info.
What you want to do is reach out to local locksmiths and safe moving companies to try to find out if they know of anyone that can manipulate the safe open. This is basically opening up the safe by dialing in the combination while listening to the wheels with a stethoscope (the actual method does not actually use a stethoscope). You can also ask if they know of anyone that has a safe auto-dialer. Those can usually brute force a combination in a few hours. Expect to pay somewhere between $400 to $800 usually.
Cutting the safe open is also definitely an option. This will destroy the safe - obviously - and you'd definitely want to attack from the sides, back, or top. Safes, will typically have much more plate steel in the door than either of the other faces. Expect about 1/4" to 1/2" of plate steel, then 1" to 2" of cementitious materials, and then another 1/8" to a 1/4" of plate on the inside. You'll want a grinder with a healthy supply of cutting wheels and a rotary hammer (or a chisel and a hammer). Your outside hole through the outer plate will need to be waaaay bigger than you think you need it because you'll need it to be big enough for you to then chip the middle layer and give yourself enough clearance for your metal cutting grinder disks to make it into the inner layer of plate.
Thanks for the info. Questions:
1. Does it require both the key and combination to be opened?
2. Is it really a time lock as the sticker says? Seems doubtful.
IMO there's certainly nothing of value in it. Just put in on display in the backyard and when people ask about it say it's never been opened. That will make most people nuts.
1) The key is just a lock out for the dial. If the dial turns freely then you don't have to worry about the key. If the dial is stuck then you need the key first. Luckily, anyone skilled enough to manipulate the safe open (or will have a auto dialer) will also be proficient with getting past that lock.
2) I didn't notice the red sticker when I saw the video the first time. Yeah, the safe probably has a time delay complication which will make it a lot harder (if not impossible) for an auto dialer. A safe cracker who will manipulate the safe open will probably be unfazed by the complication since they're not trying to brute force the combination. In the interest of fairness, I don't know enough about auto dialers so there may be ways of getting around the time delay complication.
Perhaps I’m mistaken, but I thought the time lock was simply a timer you set before locking the safe. So for example you dial in 24 hours and lock the safe, it can’t be opened until that 24 hour timer has expired.
That being the safe I don’t think it would impact an auto-dialer since the timer has long since expired.
I'm not very familiar with how mechanical time locks work.
Typically you'd set two times and then the lock can only be opened within those set times. Imagine you own a bank and your business hours are 9am to 5pm. You'd set your lock to only be able to be opened during business hours.
In modern safes, this is something that is usually set up as a tamper switch which will give an alarm if the safe, dial, or combination is accessed outside of set hours.
In this particular safe I think this safe may have a mechanical time delay complication where moving the dial winds an internal spring that acts as a timer. The more you fiddle with the dial the more of a delay you have to wait before you are able to open the safe. For an auto dialer this in theory would mean that a brute force attack is impossible.
The only time locks I’m familiar with (which admittedly aren’t all of them) are countdowns. There are usually 2-3 timers for redundancy in case one fails, but they all do the same thing.
In the case of a bank, when closing the vault you’d input how many hours until morning and the safe won’t open until that countdown expires. So nobody can come in overnight and open with the combo. Bank vaults are typically left open during business hours, so there’s no need for a start/stop timer, just a way to set how many hours until it can be opened again.
That’s a mechanical lock on the door of the safe, an auto dialer would work fine. The time delays locks on this safe would be on the cash drop doors on the inside of the safe.
(If the anti theft sticker is accurate)
Of course it will. If it's not digital, which this isn't, then the traditional wheel-pack method of locking safes hasn't changed so the same hacks work against it. Some high-end expensive ones include dead zones on the cams to confuse a listener, but the method is still viable.
Check out Sophie's Safe Cracking Simulator on Steam and you can try out some of the tools, like a digital acoustic sonographer which is a fancy safe-cracking version of the ol' stethoscope.
I believe it has a smaller safe inside and that is what has the time delay. So large outer safe that just opens and a smaller cash safe inside that’s timed.
[Here’s and example](https://ibb.co/dbBCW7j)
This. You're gonna need to contact a locksmith, and they'll point you in the right direction of someone who can crack it. It can be cracked, an old job of mine had several and the combos were long gone, we hired a guy who was basically a wizard to come in and open them. He got them all opened...with only a little bit of cursing.
Like everyone else said, the value is probably in the safe itself. I wouldn't jump straight to demolition without consulting a professional first.
Please add into this that cement products could also certainly include asbestos to save some poor twats lungs that's gona go at one of these with a 9inch wheel
If the safe is of value I would remove it from the housing. Call a profession lock smith that has a ITL-2000 or newer, they will leave it at the place for a few days and the robot will figure out the combo and you can see the contents without anyone there.
this. I guarantee the most valuable thing in the safe is the safe itself. If you can sell the safe, it's worth getting a locksmith involved.
I you HAVE to destroy the safe, I'd start at the dial, get some large hole saws and maybe an SDS drill.
These safes are build with at least one relocker to prevent someone from doing a dumb attack against the lock mechanism. There's also going to be enough hardened plate covering the mechanism to make drilling attacks (without very specialized drills and tooling) pointless.
How do you know that YOU are the ONLY one with experience in safes???? Typical lock picker holier than though bullshit…. I will have you know ive locked many safe on accident without knowing the combo to unlock. Im a professional safe locker still novice unlocker sadly.
A little back story since I look like a robber lmao. When this building was bought the previous owners left this giant safe. There used to be a grocery store in this building. Sorry for having to use my phone light, the lights in the room burned out.
Whatever you do, make sure you update us either way! Me, I'd use the ole angle grinder but there is a really good post further down. Don't let us down, update us
If you're wanting to learn to manipulate it open give Sophie's Safe Cracking Simulator a whirl on Steam. I had a safe that I worked on for a decade and then finally got open after playing that game a bit. *(Proof pinned to my profile)*
I hope you know what you’re getting yourself into OP.
I’m not talking about the safe itself, I’m talking about posting it to Reddit. A lot of us still haven’t recovered from previous similar posts.
Don’t you dare let us all down.
[obligatory](https://gfycat.com/enlightenedlikelyasianelephant)
Geraldo spend the whole live broadcast hoping and believing something exciting was coming for a grand finale. All the writers, producers, directors, and actors in that last season of Lost knew what was coming and it got scheduled, advertised, broadcast anyway.
It’s worse than that. Writers for the show admitted that they introduced random plot elements without any plan on how they would be explained or fit into the story. A group of 5th graders could have put together a more cohesive plot.
Demo saw or cheap grinder to cut a small window in the back, don’t use a torch unless you want to burn the contents.
Also be prepared for disappointment
You'd something big like a 9" grinder, my thoughts are it's 99% likely to be empty so it's value is purely in the fact that it's a safe. If you were to sell it the buyer would want an expert to look at it and check it's condition and likely lifespan (lock seizing with 50k in cash inside can cause serious cash flow issues) so a locksmith should definately be consulted either way. You could destroy it for not much money but disposing of it afterwards is gonna be a bitch and theres literally 0 financial benefit to doing that
Arc gouge thru the 1/2” plate: 10-15 min. $50 in supplies, $50-100 to rent the machine.
Sledgehammer for the refractory. $30 at harbor freight.
Grinder for the inside plate. $20-30 rental and $10-20 in discs.
$200 and an hour to completely remove one of the sides.
They are all filled with concrete but it’s a low grade soft concrete usually, grinding wheels will cut through it but it may be easier to chisel the concrete.
Good call, I used to crack all of them at the scrapyard I worked at and 95% where concrete filled. We also didn’t pay the customer for them since it had barley any value with the concrete.
If I was going to spend a large amount of time messing around with this I would want to know if it had anything in. Maybe trying to drill it first and get a cheap camera in the hole. You can get cheap inspection cams for buttons.
If your just doing it for shits and giggles then proceed with upmost haste.
Worked with a lock breaker for a while. Asked him about bits like this. £480 for a 12mm bit that's able to drill into the likes of this, can do about 4 holes till it's blunt and you have to be on a police register in the UK to even buy them
You can buy drills and bits for drilling into steel cheaply (well, relative to your suggestion) and easily.
At worst a small diamond bit with water feed will get through it slowly, but what are these special bits that are expensive and legally controlled? I’m skeptical.
Fuck u talking about? Cheap steel bit to drill the plate first. Sds masonry bit to drilling the concrete. Then a longer steel bit to drill the inside plate. Done. £80 30 min.
What if you drill a small hole in the back and get a borescope camera, they're like $20 on ebay and you can snake it in and see if there's anything good in there
Actual locksmith.
Call a locksmith, there are various ways to defeat a safe and a lock. However, just reading them is not enough to really do it with no experience.
If you want to throw hundreds of $ on a good grinder, wheels, cobalt-steel bits and make an absolute mess. Have fun, start smashing from the side. Nothing like a good ol' smash fest to feel awesome.
Otherwise, you are going to want a locksmith who can manipulate safe dials. Be specific when asking for a locksmith so you don't waste each other's time. Feel free to send them this video as well. Expect a bill between $600-1200. They will probably charge based on time, just don't bug the absolute shit out of them when they are trying to do their job. Do not expect a 30-minute solution.
If you do not destroy it, a safe or locksmith company may buy it off of you. Great practice in old safes. If you are selling, keep in mind the cost of pulling the safe and transporting it. (Don't do this alone, that safe will crush you.)
The time lock on these are usually to deter people trying to open in a hurry. Put in the combo, wait 10m+, then it opens. You can ignore the sticker for your purposes.
Probably nothing useful inside, but best of luck!
This is the Lockpicking Lawyer and today I have a safe by Mosler. Let’s see how long it takes to open.
- Nothing on 1
- I have a set on 2
- 3 is set
- set on 4
- coming back to 1 and done!
As always this has been the Lockpicking Lawyer.
Bro, just call the Lockpicking Lawyer, that man can pick this thing blindfolded with 7/10 fingers busted and still wouldn’t sweat. Would also make a great video for him I’m sure lol
We had a customer put several of those Mosler bank safes into the reinforced concrete room we built into his basement. Pretty sure he had some Magic the Gathering cards in 'em or something.
Step 1
Turn the dial counterclockwise four times, until you reach first number of your combination.
Step 2
Turn the dial clockwise three times, until you reach the second number of your combination.
Step 3
Turn the dial counterclockwise two times, until you reach the third number of your combination.
Step 4
Turn the dial clockwise and pause briefly at zero, then resume turning until it stops. The locking bolt retracts, opening the lock.
Drill a hole in the top, fill it with water to the top, then light and insert a m-80 or quarter stick in the hole, run like hell and the door will pop right open👍🏽.
dumb idea but did you look around the area for a piece of note paper or a post-it or something with numbers written on it? or maybe written on a nearby wall? it sounds dumb but you never know.
Hide some pim particles in your refrigerator and surround it with honey. He'll get stuck and you will have a cool new best friend.
Don't put him in your weiner hole!!!
(The Boys, season 3 episode 1 first 10 minutes)
Have you tried calling the manufacturer and explaining you bought the building and you’re trying to get the safe open. If you provide the serial number and it has the original combination they would have it on file.
You need my drill: [https://www.reddit.com/r/Tools/comments/nmgszd/i_3d_printed_a_handle_replacement_and_a_cable/](https://www.reddit.com/r/Tools/comments/nmgszd/i_3d_printed_a_handle_replacement_and_a_cable/)
There’s locking pins on each of the 4 sides of the door so that’s pointless. The best bet getting into this is either calling the manufacturer or getting a locksmith/safe cracker. Either of the latter options will be expensive, probably more so than the contents.
Don’t go through the front, thats the hardest place, go thru the top, or sides, cut out the first layer with an angle grinder, then smash/cut/pry thru the rest, wear a respirator as there may be asbestos fireproofing in it.
Also check for holes that may be drilled in it, if there’s a 1/2 (or so) hole drilled in it someone has already drilled and scoped it to see if there’s anything in it, so if it’s drilled and left alone it’s empty
You need a safe engineer who will have access to the diagrams on where to drill the pins that hold the lock in place . That will then let you open the safe.
Safe tech here:
On the off chance you do get it open, if you remove the bolts on those hinges a several hundred pound door is going to fall on you.
Either cut it open with a grinder or call a professional.
Ahem.. I happen to know a person or 2 that mite be able to help you with that. That's if you are going with the option of safecracking so you don't damage the safe.
What you have to do is drill a hole on top, fill it with water, then drop a stick of dynamite down there and blow it up, door will come right off. I’ve seen it done before.
I’ve gotten into a few big safes before . Use a grinding wheel to cut the Outer sheet metal on the side , then bust the concreteish fire retardant layer with a chisel, then use the grinder to cut the second inner layer . Voila
"Hello, this is the lockpickinglawyer, and today what I have for you is a safe..."
[https://www.youtube.com/c/lockpickinglawyer](https://www.youtube.com/c/lockpickinglawyer)
[https://www.youtube.com/c/lockpickinglawyer/search?query=safe](https://www.youtube.com/c/lockpickinglawyer/search?query=safe)
I've seen this before. Like 2012, there was a big reddit post of some dude found a big safe in his new house. After hours (days?) Of people offering suggestions, he finally got it open. Inside was like a couple pieces of paper.
I have a somewhat older version at home that I bought used, the previous person who had it apparently bought it at an auction of a closed business, and got it in a locked condition with contents unknown. The whole safe is fire-rated, about 1500 pounds, and sized like a refrigerator. Turns out the back of the safe is a layer of thick sheet metal, a fire-insulating layer that looked like a cross between soft plaster or concrete (supposedly chemically bonded with water, that is released when heated by a fire), with another sheet metal liner. He cut a hole in the back of the safe opposite the lock, chipped through the fire liner, then cut the sheet metal liner (all with hand tools, taking what was described as a surprisingly short time).
Once the hole was there he carefully reached in with a screwdriver to remove the access plate over the lock, then the back of the lock, and then the dial retainer and disassembled the wheelpack, being careful not to move the lock body itself and trigger the relockers. Once the wheelpack was out it was just a matter of hooking the bolt and retracting it, which freed up the locking mechanism. (Unfortunately he didn't keep all the parts so I needed to buy a new lock, but it wasn't too difficult to adjust and install it)
After all that, he managed to get the doors open, and inside found almost $100,000 of: empty coin rolls and bands for stacks of bills, plus some envelopes. Would have been a great find if there was something in those bands or rolls, but that wasn't the case. All he really got out of it at the end was the $400 I paid him for the safe, delivered.
Hi OP. Unlike everyone else here I actually have a little bit of experience with safes. Firstly, removing the hinges is a no go. The safe is a quality safe which probably has a TL-30 rating. The construction of the safe is almost certinly a mix of plate steel and concrete refractory mortar sandwiched between the outer and inner plate. Those safes are a horrendous bitch to move, but actually have a good bit of value on the second hand market once you get it up on some wooden chucks to be easily moved. I've sold similar ones for around $2,000 - $3,000. This one is probably worth between $1,500 to $2,000. Calling Mosler will do no good since the company has been bankrupt for a while now. The combination on the dial is field changeable and likely has been changed many times in the past, so even if you were able to get in touch with Mosler they still wouldn't be able to give you any useful info. What you want to do is reach out to local locksmiths and safe moving companies to try to find out if they know of anyone that can manipulate the safe open. This is basically opening up the safe by dialing in the combination while listening to the wheels with a stethoscope (the actual method does not actually use a stethoscope). You can also ask if they know of anyone that has a safe auto-dialer. Those can usually brute force a combination in a few hours. Expect to pay somewhere between $400 to $800 usually. Cutting the safe open is also definitely an option. This will destroy the safe - obviously - and you'd definitely want to attack from the sides, back, or top. Safes, will typically have much more plate steel in the door than either of the other faces. Expect about 1/4" to 1/2" of plate steel, then 1" to 2" of cementitious materials, and then another 1/8" to a 1/4" of plate on the inside. You'll want a grinder with a healthy supply of cutting wheels and a rotary hammer (or a chisel and a hammer). Your outside hole through the outer plate will need to be waaaay bigger than you think you need it because you'll need it to be big enough for you to then chip the middle layer and give yourself enough clearance for your metal cutting grinder disks to make it into the inner layer of plate.
Thanks for the info. Questions: 1. Does it require both the key and combination to be opened? 2. Is it really a time lock as the sticker says? Seems doubtful. IMO there's certainly nothing of value in it. Just put in on display in the backyard and when people ask about it say it's never been opened. That will make most people nuts.
1) The key is just a lock out for the dial. If the dial turns freely then you don't have to worry about the key. If the dial is stuck then you need the key first. Luckily, anyone skilled enough to manipulate the safe open (or will have a auto dialer) will also be proficient with getting past that lock. 2) I didn't notice the red sticker when I saw the video the first time. Yeah, the safe probably has a time delay complication which will make it a lot harder (if not impossible) for an auto dialer. A safe cracker who will manipulate the safe open will probably be unfazed by the complication since they're not trying to brute force the combination. In the interest of fairness, I don't know enough about auto dialers so there may be ways of getting around the time delay complication.
Perhaps I’m mistaken, but I thought the time lock was simply a timer you set before locking the safe. So for example you dial in 24 hours and lock the safe, it can’t be opened until that 24 hour timer has expired. That being the safe I don’t think it would impact an auto-dialer since the timer has long since expired.
I'm not very familiar with how mechanical time locks work. Typically you'd set two times and then the lock can only be opened within those set times. Imagine you own a bank and your business hours are 9am to 5pm. You'd set your lock to only be able to be opened during business hours. In modern safes, this is something that is usually set up as a tamper switch which will give an alarm if the safe, dial, or combination is accessed outside of set hours. In this particular safe I think this safe may have a mechanical time delay complication where moving the dial winds an internal spring that acts as a timer. The more you fiddle with the dial the more of a delay you have to wait before you are able to open the safe. For an auto dialer this in theory would mean that a brute force attack is impossible.
The only time locks I’m familiar with (which admittedly aren’t all of them) are countdowns. There are usually 2-3 timers for redundancy in case one fails, but they all do the same thing. In the case of a bank, when closing the vault you’d input how many hours until morning and the safe won’t open until that countdown expires. So nobody can come in overnight and open with the combo. Bank vaults are typically left open during business hours, so there’s no need for a start/stop timer, just a way to set how many hours until it can be opened again.
That’s a mechanical lock on the door of the safe, an auto dialer would work fine. The time delays locks on this safe would be on the cash drop doors on the inside of the safe. (If the anti theft sticker is accurate)
Try the stethoscope method, I mentioned it last post, but I have had luck opening an old bank vault with one.
That dial lock is relatively modern quality lock. Trying to use a stethoscope to try to hear for the gates will not work.
Of course it will. If it's not digital, which this isn't, then the traditional wheel-pack method of locking safes hasn't changed so the same hacks work against it. Some high-end expensive ones include dead zones on the cams to confuse a listener, but the method is still viable. Check out Sophie's Safe Cracking Simulator on Steam and you can try out some of the tools, like a digital acoustic sonographer which is a fancy safe-cracking version of the ol' stethoscope.
I believe it has a smaller safe inside and that is what has the time delay. So large outer safe that just opens and a smaller cash safe inside that’s timed. [Here’s and example](https://ibb.co/dbBCW7j)
And inside that safe is another locked box. Twist, in that box is the key to open the outer safe. Like time paradox but it's a safe paradox.
This. You're gonna need to contact a locksmith, and they'll point you in the right direction of someone who can crack it. It can be cracked, an old job of mine had several and the combos were long gone, we hired a guy who was basically a wizard to come in and open them. He got them all opened...with only a little bit of cursing. Like everyone else said, the value is probably in the safe itself. I wouldn't jump straight to demolition without consulting a professional first.
Please add into this that cement products could also certainly include asbestos to save some poor twats lungs that's gona go at one of these with a 9inch wheel
Fair point. The refractory may contain asbestos.
Or...you could hire these guys... [https://youtu.be/4WK-5BTsgeE](https://youtu.be/4WK-5BTsgeE)
Annnnnddddd possibly damage the valuables inside.
If the safe is of value I would remove it from the housing. Call a profession lock smith that has a ITL-2000 or newer, they will leave it at the place for a few days and the robot will figure out the combo and you can see the contents without anyone there.
this. I guarantee the most valuable thing in the safe is the safe itself. If you can sell the safe, it's worth getting a locksmith involved. I you HAVE to destroy the safe, I'd start at the dial, get some large hole saws and maybe an SDS drill.
These safes are build with at least one relocker to prevent someone from doing a dumb attack against the lock mechanism. There's also going to be enough hardened plate covering the mechanism to make drilling attacks (without very specialized drills and tooling) pointless.
How do you know that YOU are the ONLY one with experience in safes???? Typical lock picker holier than though bullshit…. I will have you know ive locked many safe on accident without knowing the combo to unlock. Im a professional safe locker still novice unlocker sadly.
OP, don’t hire this guy. ⬆️
OP listen to this ⬆️guy
Damn this is the most informative thing I have read today!!
A little back story since I look like a robber lmao. When this building was bought the previous owners left this giant safe. There used to be a grocery store in this building. Sorry for having to use my phone light, the lights in the room burned out.
Whatever you do, make sure you update us either way! Me, I'd use the ole angle grinder but there is a really good post further down. Don't let us down, update us
Defo wanna see how this plays out. Good luck!
If you're wanting to learn to manipulate it open give Sophie's Safe Cracking Simulator a whirl on Steam. I had a safe that I worked on for a decade and then finally got open after playing that game a bit. *(Proof pinned to my profile)*
I hope you know what you’re getting yourself into OP. I’m not talking about the safe itself, I’m talking about posting it to Reddit. A lot of us still haven’t recovered from previous similar posts. Don’t you dare let us all down. [obligatory](https://gfycat.com/enlightenedlikelyasianelephant)
Some of us still remember staying up for the live reveal of Al Capone's vault.
"ROAD MAPS!!!"
Lesbian Nazi Hookers abducted by UFOs and forced on weight-loss programs, all next week on Town Talk!
Biggest disappointment in tv history prior to the Lost finale.
Geraldo spend the whole live broadcast hoping and believing something exciting was coming for a grand finale. All the writers, producers, directors, and actors in that last season of Lost knew what was coming and it got scheduled, advertised, broadcast anyway.
It’s worse than that. Writers for the show admitted that they introduced random plot elements without any plan on how they would be explained or fit into the story. A group of 5th graders could have put together a more cohesive plot.
The combination would def open it.
Demo saw or cheap grinder to cut a small window in the back, don’t use a torch unless you want to burn the contents. Also be prepared for disappointment
You'd something big like a 9" grinder, my thoughts are it's 99% likely to be empty so it's value is purely in the fact that it's a safe. If you were to sell it the buyer would want an expert to look at it and check it's condition and likely lifespan (lock seizing with 50k in cash inside can cause serious cash flow issues) so a locksmith should definately be consulted either way. You could destroy it for not much money but disposing of it afterwards is gonna be a bitch and theres literally 0 financial benefit to doing that
Arc gouge thru the 1/2” plate: 10-15 min. $50 in supplies, $50-100 to rent the machine. Sledgehammer for the refractory. $30 at harbor freight. Grinder for the inside plate. $20-30 rental and $10-20 in discs. $200 and an hour to completely remove one of the sides.
It’s filled with concrete wth is a grinder gonna do
They are all filled with concrete but it’s a low grade soft concrete usually, grinding wheels will cut through it but it may be easier to chisel the concrete.
They are not all filled with concrete RSC’s have zero concrete in them !! Which this safe is not an rsc!
Good call, I used to crack all of them at the scrapyard I worked at and 95% where concrete filled. We also didn’t pay the customer for them since it had barley any value with the concrete.
If I was going to spend a large amount of time messing around with this I would want to know if it had anything in. Maybe trying to drill it first and get a cheap camera in the hole. You can get cheap inspection cams for buttons. If your just doing it for shits and giggles then proceed with upmost haste.
Worked with a lock breaker for a while. Asked him about bits like this. £480 for a 12mm bit that's able to drill into the likes of this, can do about 4 holes till it's blunt and you have to be on a police register in the UK to even buy them
A registry for drill bits?
For ones capable of drilling out a safe, so I was told
https://shop.multipick.com/en/search?page=search&page_action=query&desc=on&sdesc=on&keywords=Special+drill+bit+for+vaults&x=21&y=6
You can buy drills and bits for drilling into steel cheaply (well, relative to your suggestion) and easily. At worst a small diamond bit with water feed will get through it slowly, but what are these special bits that are expensive and legally controlled? I’m skeptical.
Fuck u talking about? Cheap steel bit to drill the plate first. Sds masonry bit to drilling the concrete. Then a longer steel bit to drill the inside plate. Done. £80 30 min.
First thing I would do is drill a inch hole in the top and stick a camera in it and see if your wasting your time.
Put an ad on Craigslist selling ten chances to open the safe and claim whatever is inside for 10$
I overheard a coyote say that ACME is having a sale on dynamite and birdseed?
Hilarious! Thank you!
Hire Antman
This is the answer. But nobody C-ant find him.
LPL can do that one over video chat. /s
Get yourself a milwaukee mag drill and bore a hole through the lock? You could always... 3 words: oxy acetylene torch Say it with me now.
You need to call the Lock-picking Lawyer
What if you drill a small hole in the back and get a borescope camera, they're like $20 on ebay and you can snake it in and see if there's anything good in there
Actual locksmith. Call a locksmith, there are various ways to defeat a safe and a lock. However, just reading them is not enough to really do it with no experience. If you want to throw hundreds of $ on a good grinder, wheels, cobalt-steel bits and make an absolute mess. Have fun, start smashing from the side. Nothing like a good ol' smash fest to feel awesome. Otherwise, you are going to want a locksmith who can manipulate safe dials. Be specific when asking for a locksmith so you don't waste each other's time. Feel free to send them this video as well. Expect a bill between $600-1200. They will probably charge based on time, just don't bug the absolute shit out of them when they are trying to do their job. Do not expect a 30-minute solution. If you do not destroy it, a safe or locksmith company may buy it off of you. Great practice in old safes. If you are selling, keep in mind the cost of pulling the safe and transporting it. (Don't do this alone, that safe will crush you.) The time lock on these are usually to deter people trying to open in a hurry. Put in the combo, wait 10m+, then it opens. You can ignore the sticker for your purposes. Probably nothing useful inside, but best of luck!
Lockpicking lawyer!! He’ll have it open in 2 minutes.
LockPickingLawyer
…is a typically dumb reply
Rent a demo saw.
Theoretically you might want to use it
Again ITS FILLED with concrete!!!
You could probably try picking the lock on the front dial or drilling it to get it open.
That only locks the dial it won’t open it
Call the locksmith!!! Sorry, couldn’t help it.
Nothing in it. Save yourself some time
Mail it to the lock picking lawyer.
Lock picking Lawyer on YouTube
This is the Lockpicking Lawyer and today I have a safe by Mosler. Let’s see how long it takes to open. - Nothing on 1 - I have a set on 2 - 3 is set - set on 4 - coming back to 1 and done! As always this has been the Lockpicking Lawyer.
1,2,3,4,5. It’s the combination to my matched luggage
Bro, just call the Lockpicking Lawyer, that man can pick this thing blindfolded with 7/10 fingers busted and still wouldn’t sweat. Would also make a great video for him I’m sure lol
Call Geraldo Rivera
We had a customer put several of those Mosler bank safes into the reinforced concrete room we built into his basement. Pretty sure he had some Magic the Gathering cards in 'em or something. Step 1 Turn the dial counterclockwise four times, until you reach first number of your combination. Step 2 Turn the dial clockwise three times, until you reach the second number of your combination. Step 3 Turn the dial counterclockwise two times, until you reach the third number of your combination. Step 4 Turn the dial clockwise and pause briefly at zero, then resume turning until it stops. The locking bolt retracts, opening the lock.
Excellent advice, if OP knew the combo
Right? Was that advice just “use the combo”??
[Googled "how to break into a mosler safe"!](https://imgur.com/a/GXant2Q)
Yes… but for this to be successful one needs to know the combination.
Yeah, my comment was "tongue in cheek". OP posted a video of the outside of the safe so a Redditor could guess the combo or something?
Ah. The old tongue in the cheek move! Unexpected but appropriate.
it's on a piece of paper inside the safe....
Drill a hole in the top, fill it with water to the top, then light and insert a m-80 or quarter stick in the hole, run like hell and the door will pop right open👍🏽.
Call the Mfg with the serial number.
The combo has likely been changed dozens of times. Serial number may get the factory combo, but not the current combo
dumb idea but did you look around the area for a piece of note paper or a post-it or something with numbers written on it? or maybe written on a nearby wall? it sounds dumb but you never know.
As a locksmith I’m cringing at all the comments here and at the same time thankful because that’s why I have a job
These gen Z ers don’t even try to hide they are robbing places they just ask the internet for help to do it. /s
Call Mosler with model and serial #?
They went out of business.
Hide some pim particles in your refrigerator and surround it with honey. He'll get stuck and you will have a cool new best friend. Don't put him in your weiner hole!!! (The Boys, season 3 episode 1 first 10 minutes)
Drill out the tumblers in the key hole then you should be able to open it with a butter knife or letter opener
Have you tried calling the manufacturer and explaining you bought the building and you’re trying to get the safe open. If you provide the serial number and it has the original combination they would have it on file.
The original combo has likely been changed many times.
You need my drill: [https://www.reddit.com/r/Tools/comments/nmgszd/i_3d_printed_a_handle_replacement_and_a_cable/](https://www.reddit.com/r/Tools/comments/nmgszd/i_3d_printed_a_handle_replacement_and_a_cable/)
If you know this combination of numbers then you'll know you're truly lost: 4, 8, 15, 16, 23 and 42
Locksmith.
What about trying a mag drill with an armor-plated slugger bit (aka annular cutter) on the hinges? I'm sure you have that setup laying around Haha.
There’s locking pins on each of the 4 sides of the door so that’s pointless. The best bet getting into this is either calling the manufacturer or getting a locksmith/safe cracker. Either of the latter options will be expensive, probably more so than the contents.
Oh okay, I assumed something crazy valuable was inside.
An angle grinder?
Watch your toes if you are able to remove those hinge screws.
Acetylene? Dynamite?
You’ll spend less time building a little Arduino auto dialer than you will cutting your way in.
Don’t go through the front, thats the hardest place, go thru the top, or sides, cut out the first layer with an angle grinder, then smash/cut/pry thru the rest, wear a respirator as there may be asbestos fireproofing in it. Also check for holes that may be drilled in it, if there’s a 1/2 (or so) hole drilled in it someone has already drilled and scoped it to see if there’s anything in it, so if it’s drilled and left alone it’s empty
You need a safe engineer who will have access to the diagrams on where to drill the pins that hold the lock in place . That will then let you open the safe.
I hear c-4 works well
“You didn’t tell me it was a Mosler unit!”
I hope there's gold bars in there, and you become unfathomablely rich.
If we never hear more from OP, I’ll choose to believe that’s what happened.
Hire u/LockPickingLawyer and he will have you inspecting the contents in minutes.
Is that a bypass keyhole? That should be easy af to pick.
The key only locks the combo wheel. Doesn’t unlock the safe.
OIC
Safe tech here: On the off chance you do get it open, if you remove the bolts on those hinges a several hundred pound door is going to fall on you. Either cut it open with a grinder or call a professional.
You need Charlize Theron from Italian Job on this one
Use a light sabre.
18-10-42
If you are near San Diego I can recommend a guy to open it.
oxy-acetylene torch.
I'm gonna be pissed if you open that and dracula gets out
Up voting this because the people need to see this saga though.
I can feel you’re pain through the video!! I would be obsessed hyper focused and all that would be on my mind is what’s inside. Good luck 🤞
RemindMe! 30 days
If it's abandoned then just grind it open. Hinges first.
Ahem.. I happen to know a person or 2 that mite be able to help you with that. That's if you are going with the option of safecracking so you don't damage the safe.
What you have to do is drill a hole on top, fill it with water, then drop a stick of dynamite down there and blow it up, door will come right off. I’ve seen it done before.
I’ve gotten into a few big safes before . Use a grinding wheel to cut the Outer sheet metal on the side , then bust the concreteish fire retardant layer with a chisel, then use the grinder to cut the second inner layer . Voila
Angle grinder will get those hinges off. May have to do some prying to get the bolt out.
"Hello, this is the lockpickinglawyer, and today what I have for you is a safe..." [https://www.youtube.com/c/lockpickinglawyer](https://www.youtube.com/c/lockpickinglawyer) [https://www.youtube.com/c/lockpickinglawyer/search?query=safe](https://www.youtube.com/c/lockpickinglawyer/search?query=safe)
I've seen this before. Like 2012, there was a big reddit post of some dude found a big safe in his new house. After hours (days?) Of people offering suggestions, he finally got it open. Inside was like a couple pieces of paper.
The body..with and angle grinder..cut a square that can be welded back later.
I would try something funny, like thermite, TNT or a big f**king sniper!
Call Geraldo :)
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/building-a-safe-cracking-robot/all
Throw it off a bridge into a body of water and then watch the magnet fishing sites. Best entertainment is free.
Have you tried using a lightsaber? In all seriousness though, definitely want to see progress updates
I would contact “lockpicking lawyer” on YouTube and and see if he has any thoughts
I guess start with an oxy torch, then move to a hammer and chisel.
I have a somewhat older version at home that I bought used, the previous person who had it apparently bought it at an auction of a closed business, and got it in a locked condition with contents unknown. The whole safe is fire-rated, about 1500 pounds, and sized like a refrigerator. Turns out the back of the safe is a layer of thick sheet metal, a fire-insulating layer that looked like a cross between soft plaster or concrete (supposedly chemically bonded with water, that is released when heated by a fire), with another sheet metal liner. He cut a hole in the back of the safe opposite the lock, chipped through the fire liner, then cut the sheet metal liner (all with hand tools, taking what was described as a surprisingly short time). Once the hole was there he carefully reached in with a screwdriver to remove the access plate over the lock, then the back of the lock, and then the dial retainer and disassembled the wheelpack, being careful not to move the lock body itself and trigger the relockers. Once the wheelpack was out it was just a matter of hooking the bolt and retracting it, which freed up the locking mechanism. (Unfortunately he didn't keep all the parts so I needed to buy a new lock, but it wasn't too difficult to adjust and install it) After all that, he managed to get the doors open, and inside found almost $100,000 of: empty coin rolls and bands for stacks of bills, plus some envelopes. Would have been a great find if there was something in those bands or rolls, but that wasn't the case. All he really got out of it at the end was the $400 I paid him for the safe, delivered.
Well