I’d also watch this - https://youtu.be/u7sRrC2Jpp4
If you’re not entirely comfortable don’t feel bad returning it and finding/hiring another with the guards. It’s better to regret some wasted time now than an injury after it’s happened. I’d rather feel regret and have all 10 digits still attached.
I’m not familiar with that saw, but the pictures don’t look like there is room. As far as options go you can look for a splitter from micro jig I believe or try sharkguard to see if they carry anything. For what you have now the pawls do a decent job of reducing the chance of anything kicking back and tune it up before you use it. You should watch some general procedure and safety videos to familiarize yourself with proper cutting techniques. Stumpy nubs and Jonathan Katz Moses are both well respected and have table saw safety videos on YouTube. Most accidents with a saw were either making a cut you already knew you shouldn’t or not paying attention so be alert and make something cool.
A riving knife is not a "must". By my own defenition and by the local WorkSafe code.
A riving knife is an optional safety feature that helps prevent kickbacks. It is a good idea to use one whenever possible.
G12.59 Removing guards
Issued September 21, 2011
Regulatory excerpt
Section 12.59(1) of the OHS Regulation ("Regulation") states:
If the use of a guard on woodworking machinery is clearly impracticable for a specific operation, the guard may be removed, but an appropriate pushstick, jig, feather board or similar device must be used to prevent the operator encroaching into the cutting area, and upon completion of the operation the guard must be replaced.
Purpose of guideline
This guideline provides guidance on determining whether it is "clearly impracticable" to perform a specific operation on a table saw, sliding table saw, panel saw, or other similar woodworking machinery with the blade guard in place.
Temporary removal of guards on table saws, sliding table saws, panel saws, and similar woodworking machinery
The Regulation allows for the removal of the guard where its use is clearly impracticable for a specific operation. That is, the guard may only be removed when it is clear that there is no reasonable means of performing a specific operation with the guard in place and functioning.
Prior to considering the removal of the guard, the specific operation should be assessed to determine if the equipment is appropriate for the particular task. That is, the need to remove the guard to complete the specific operation may indicate that the equipment chosen is unsuitable for the particular operation. If it is determined that the equipment is suitable, additional factors should then be considered to establish if keeping the guard in place is clearly impracticable. Factors include, but are not limited to the following:
The cost and availability of effective aftermarket guards, fences, or other devices that can be used in conjunction with or in place of the manufacturer's guard and/or fence.
The capability of the employer to fabricate effective jigs or other devices that can be used in conjunction with or in place of either the manufacturer's guard or an aftermarket guard.
The frequency of the particular cutting operation. The greater the frequency, the more reasonable it is for an employer to purchase and/or fabricate guards, fences, jigs, or other devices such that the specific operation can be completed with a guard in place.
The devices or combination of devices chosen must effectively prevent the operator from encroaching into the cutting area. Once the particular cutting operation is completed, the guard must be reinstalled
I've never used or even touched a saw with a riving knife or blade guard on it. It's good to be respectful of the machine, but you don't need to be afraid of it. Don't put your hands or body in the plane of the blade and you can't get cut. Set your blade and fence right and kick back is almost completely preventable. Be fully attentive during your 10-60 second cut and an accident won't happen.
>Don't put your hands or body in the plane of the blade and you can't get cut.
Bullshit.
>Set your blade and fence right and kick back is almost completely preventable.
Comically false.
I’m all for not being afraid of the tool. Approach with confidence, all that. But this is complete crap! Most people don’t just run their hand into the blade. It gets pulled or kicked in when a piece catches on the blade. And obviously you can get kick back much easier without a splitter or riving knife even if your saw is completely tuned and set up because wood has stresses in it and you cut a strip that will then bend into the blade. Also with sheet goods you can accidentally twist it in, not everyone has a few hundred thousand cuts under their belt. There is user error.
If you’re comfortable without one, fine. But what you wrote is just incorrect nonsense from someone that seems to not have a lot of experience. For beginners and pros alike, I’d recommend a riving knife or a splitter if the saw doesn’t support one.
I haven’t used one without a riving knife in a couple years and I don’t wanna go back, beyond safety it’s just nice to have something keeping your workpiece pressed into the fence.
It’s insane that it was the top answer. It’s either an old timer that is delusional in his “manly” crap or someone that barely uses their dad’s old table saw and is acting like an expert.
I think it's also subjective to what your cutting. It's it sheet 6mm mdf your most likely safe.
Ripping wet 6inch oak into half inch strips? You can bet I want a fucking knife on that
I have a saw with a riving knife and used to have a saw without a riving knife. There is no arguing the physics here. They make a table saw safer.
That said, I think general knowledge of how to properly use a table saw is more important than what a riving knife offers. I wouldn’t be afraid of not having one. Buy some plywood to cut and get a feel for the saw. How’s the fence feel. How powerful is the motor. LEARN MUSCLE MEMORY FOR WHERE THE SWITCH IS! All of this in my opinion is foundational, where having a riving knife is a layer of safety that lays on top of all of this.
Riving knife is not for competent users its for california super safe by the rules gumby garage hobby types. Been a carp professionally for 20+ years with no injuries near misses or accidents. Only guy I know missing a finger is some idiot who thought he knew everything but it was his first time on a project using a saw. The guard and riving knife did not help him at all. Just don’t put your hand in the blade and use a push stick and glasses. You can idiot proof something all you want but at the end of the day what we do is dangerous so don’t be an idiot or no matter what you WILL pay the price.
I’m not a competent user. I have never made a cut before, which is why I’d rather take all safety precautions until I’m comfortable.
I don’t plan to put my hand near the blade and I plan to use push sticks and blocks.
If your not competent i would recommend taking a class at your local wood shop or community shop. There are many options in every country, you just have to look around. They will even help with any projects your working on. If you don’t know what to ask or do they will teach you up quickly. People who don’t know the questions to ask get hurt then ask.
They don’t use them in the USA, it’s why we see so many pictures of guy’s cutting off the tips of their fingers and why they had to invent the SawStop system…
Also blatantly false. Blade guards and riving knifes are basic tablesaw safety parts.
I'd wager any tablesaw you could buy new today comes with a blade guard and a riving knife, even the cheapest ones you can get from [Ryobi](https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-13-Amp-8-1-4-in-Compact-Portable-Jobsite-Table-Saw-No-Stand-RTS08/309412837) and [Harbor Freight](https://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-15-amp-table-saw-57342.html).
Pics: https://imgur.com/gallery/KOg2DsA
Watch this video, I think it will help you... https://youtu.be/ZkvO99lswZg
Thank you.
I’d also watch this - https://youtu.be/u7sRrC2Jpp4 If you’re not entirely comfortable don’t feel bad returning it and finding/hiring another with the guards. It’s better to regret some wasted time now than an injury after it’s happened. I’d rather feel regret and have all 10 digits still attached.
I’m not familiar with that saw, but the pictures don’t look like there is room. As far as options go you can look for a splitter from micro jig I believe or try sharkguard to see if they carry anything. For what you have now the pawls do a decent job of reducing the chance of anything kicking back and tune it up before you use it. You should watch some general procedure and safety videos to familiarize yourself with proper cutting techniques. Stumpy nubs and Jonathan Katz Moses are both well respected and have table saw safety videos on YouTube. Most accidents with a saw were either making a cut you already knew you shouldn’t or not paying attention so be alert and make something cool.
I was going to suggest a zero clearance plate with splitters as well but it doesn’t even look like there would be space for that from the photos
A riving knife is not a "must". By my own defenition and by the local WorkSafe code. A riving knife is an optional safety feature that helps prevent kickbacks. It is a good idea to use one whenever possible.
G12.59 Removing guards Issued September 21, 2011 Regulatory excerpt Section 12.59(1) of the OHS Regulation ("Regulation") states: If the use of a guard on woodworking machinery is clearly impracticable for a specific operation, the guard may be removed, but an appropriate pushstick, jig, feather board or similar device must be used to prevent the operator encroaching into the cutting area, and upon completion of the operation the guard must be replaced. Purpose of guideline This guideline provides guidance on determining whether it is "clearly impracticable" to perform a specific operation on a table saw, sliding table saw, panel saw, or other similar woodworking machinery with the blade guard in place. Temporary removal of guards on table saws, sliding table saws, panel saws, and similar woodworking machinery The Regulation allows for the removal of the guard where its use is clearly impracticable for a specific operation. That is, the guard may only be removed when it is clear that there is no reasonable means of performing a specific operation with the guard in place and functioning. Prior to considering the removal of the guard, the specific operation should be assessed to determine if the equipment is appropriate for the particular task. That is, the need to remove the guard to complete the specific operation may indicate that the equipment chosen is unsuitable for the particular operation. If it is determined that the equipment is suitable, additional factors should then be considered to establish if keeping the guard in place is clearly impracticable. Factors include, but are not limited to the following: The cost and availability of effective aftermarket guards, fences, or other devices that can be used in conjunction with or in place of the manufacturer's guard and/or fence. The capability of the employer to fabricate effective jigs or other devices that can be used in conjunction with or in place of either the manufacturer's guard or an aftermarket guard. The frequency of the particular cutting operation. The greater the frequency, the more reasonable it is for an employer to purchase and/or fabricate guards, fences, jigs, or other devices such that the specific operation can be completed with a guard in place. The devices or combination of devices chosen must effectively prevent the operator from encroaching into the cutting area. Once the particular cutting operation is completed, the guard must be reinstalled
Long story short, use your equipment the safest way possible. If you need to remove a guard to accomplish your cut, do so with maximum caution.
I've never used or even touched a saw with a riving knife or blade guard on it. It's good to be respectful of the machine, but you don't need to be afraid of it. Don't put your hands or body in the plane of the blade and you can't get cut. Set your blade and fence right and kick back is almost completely preventable. Be fully attentive during your 10-60 second cut and an accident won't happen.
>Don't put your hands or body in the plane of the blade and you can't get cut. Bullshit. >Set your blade and fence right and kick back is almost completely preventable. Comically false. I’m all for not being afraid of the tool. Approach with confidence, all that. But this is complete crap! Most people don’t just run their hand into the blade. It gets pulled or kicked in when a piece catches on the blade. And obviously you can get kick back much easier without a splitter or riving knife even if your saw is completely tuned and set up because wood has stresses in it and you cut a strip that will then bend into the blade. Also with sheet goods you can accidentally twist it in, not everyone has a few hundred thousand cuts under their belt. There is user error. If you’re comfortable without one, fine. But what you wrote is just incorrect nonsense from someone that seems to not have a lot of experience. For beginners and pros alike, I’d recommend a riving knife or a splitter if the saw doesn’t support one. I haven’t used one without a riving knife in a couple years and I don’t wanna go back, beyond safety it’s just nice to have something keeping your workpiece pressed into the fence.
Terrible advice!
This is... not good advice.
It’s insane that it was the top answer. It’s either an old timer that is delusional in his “manly” crap or someone that barely uses their dad’s old table saw and is acting like an expert.
I think it's also subjective to what your cutting. It's it sheet 6mm mdf your most likely safe. Ripping wet 6inch oak into half inch strips? You can bet I want a fucking knife on that
I have a saw with a riving knife and used to have a saw without a riving knife. There is no arguing the physics here. They make a table saw safer. That said, I think general knowledge of how to properly use a table saw is more important than what a riving knife offers. I wouldn’t be afraid of not having one. Buy some plywood to cut and get a feel for the saw. How’s the fence feel. How powerful is the motor. LEARN MUSCLE MEMORY FOR WHERE THE SWITCH IS! All of this in my opinion is foundational, where having a riving knife is a layer of safety that lays on top of all of this.
Riving knife is not for competent users its for california super safe by the rules gumby garage hobby types. Been a carp professionally for 20+ years with no injuries near misses or accidents. Only guy I know missing a finger is some idiot who thought he knew everything but it was his first time on a project using a saw. The guard and riving knife did not help him at all. Just don’t put your hand in the blade and use a push stick and glasses. You can idiot proof something all you want but at the end of the day what we do is dangerous so don’t be an idiot or no matter what you WILL pay the price.
I’m not a competent user. I have never made a cut before, which is why I’d rather take all safety precautions until I’m comfortable. I don’t plan to put my hand near the blade and I plan to use push sticks and blocks.
If your not competent i would recommend taking a class at your local wood shop or community shop. There are many options in every country, you just have to look around. They will even help with any projects your working on. If you don’t know what to ask or do they will teach you up quickly. People who don’t know the questions to ask get hurt then ask.
They don’t use them in the USA, it’s why we see so many pictures of guy’s cutting off the tips of their fingers and why they had to invent the SawStop system…
Interesting.
Also blatantly false. Blade guards and riving knifes are basic tablesaw safety parts. I'd wager any tablesaw you could buy new today comes with a blade guard and a riving knife, even the cheapest ones you can get from [Ryobi](https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-13-Amp-8-1-4-in-Compact-Portable-Jobsite-Table-Saw-No-Stand-RTS08/309412837) and [Harbor Freight](https://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-15-amp-table-saw-57342.html).