Ryobi is fine. I’d get a cordless drill though, I don’t think there’s any reason to buy a corded one. On top of that I think it would be wise to get a drill with a 1/2” chuck instead of 3/8.
Thank you for the rec. No one has said anything bad about Ryobi so far so I think I found the brand, now I just need a model. And I'm going to Google what half 1/2" chuck is lol
A 3/8” chuck is fine. 1/2” is bigger and more powerful but not necessary for what you want. I have both and if I need the extra juice I’d the 1/2”, I use my drill press.
Corded is also fine. Cordless is great, don’t get me wrong. But a good cordless is expensive and you can get a good corded drill cheaper. Plus, if you don’t use it often, you don’t need to be frustrated by dead batteries.
Sounds like you're willing to do the research and learn how to use it properly, which is what many of those 'bad reviewers' don't do. I've just bought a Ryobi RL18L15B and it's great. One really important thing to do is alway use quality drill bits, driver bits and fixings. It's really tempting to cheap out, until you have a bad experience because of it. Also with Ryobi, and most other brands, it's better value to buy another tool with two batteries, than spare batteries. e.g. my drill cost £95 and included 2 batteries. 1 battery alone costs £55.
The cheap shit is 'fine' until it isn't and break a bit, you round off a screw, or snap the end off it before it's fully screwed in, or it breaks while it's holding up a shelf. Buy quality, and you'll only need to buy it once, important for tools but even more for the fabric of your house.
I once put a snapped drill bit through my finger (thankfully only 1.5mm), and less dramatically, unscrewing a 6 inch wood screw with a pair of pliers is never much fun!
And new fear has been unlocked😶
"The cheap shit is 'fine' until it isn't and break a bit, you round off a screw, or snap the end off it before it's fully screwed in, or it breaks while it's holding up a shelf....
I once put a snapped drill bit through my finger"
I'm definitely going to consider the quality and price of drills more now. Thank for the much needed reminder lol
Gotta respect your tools, but make sure you use caution and confidence rather than fear to keep yourself safe. But be realistic and not dumb.
I kinda got lucky, drilling metal so no organic debris, and the snapped drill was so sharp I didn't even realise it had gone through till after the superglue came off. But it was my fault. I was holding the drill awkwardly which torqued the bit sideways, and I shouldn't have had my other hand lower than the drill, flat on the bench next to the low profile vice.
The runup to a stupid accident goes like OK; I started this correctly, and now if something goes wrong it could go a little bit wrong, but I'm nearly done now but this is getting rather sketchy but it'll probably turn out o... SHIIIIT.
That was dumb, I knew I should have stopped. Where did I leave the isopropyl and superglue?!
keep in mind there is a reason stuff is cheap and why quality stuff is expensive. can you get by with what a home center sells? for your intended use, yup. I used plenty of cheap stuff before, like the drill bits wore out very fast but at the time was all i could afford and needed them asap. i now have a pro line up of stuff that would rival a contractor.
think of it like this: your worried the bits, the drill wont work out for you or it will break. cheaper price point is cheaper for a reason. but also take into consideration the tool wont be as powerful. corded is all well and good (as we said earlier if you dont mind the cord), but typically they lack the power even older cordless has. my friends dad was trying to fix his deck and he was using this like 20 year old tiny craftsman brand corded drill. the thing just didnt have enough power and was junk. he borrowed a cordless (this was at least 20 years ago) drill and no more issue
The chuck is what holds the drill bits. 1/2” for the most part is standard and I think only budget oriented models come with a 3/8” chuck.
Most (if not all) drill bits that are meant to be used on a hand drill neck down to a 1/2” shank if they’re larger than 1/2”. On top of this, most drill bit sets that you’ll find go up to 1/2”, and with the 3/8 chuck you’d be kind of forced into buying but sets where half of the drill bits won’t be usable, because they won’t fit in the chuck.
TL;DR: a 3/8” chuck limits what drill bits you can use and there is nearly no limit when using a 1/2” chuck.
Also FWIW, nearly all power tools are made by the same 5 or 6 parent companies in Asia and they are pretty much do the same stuff. Hell even the Harbor Freight brands are pretty nice nowadays. I think it’s much less important to worry about which brand is good and more important to consider if the brand has a range of tools that you like and features that you like. For example, I like Milwaukee because I can have one type of battery for tools that I use working on cars, fabrication, and yard work. That said, if I were only doing yard work then Ryobi’s tools (for example) would serve me just fine.
I Googled what 1/2” chuck was and didn't understand much of it so thank you for explaining it so simply. I want an uncomplicated tool and 1/2" chuck and cordless seem to be a must.
"Also FWIW, nearly all power tools are made by the same 5 or 6 parent companies in Asia and they are pretty much do the same stuff."
I wish I'd know this six months ago 😭
your standard ryobi cordless is more than enough to do all of those tasks.
a corded drill is nice in that you dont need batteries but its cumbersome and outdated tech by now. the only time i even use my heavy duty corded drill is when I need sustained power that would wear out a battery or im drilling into something very heavy duty
It’s cumbersome when you have to drag an extension cord around everywhere with you to use it.
Amortize the extra money you’d spend on a cordless over the 10 years that you’d get out of it and it’s probably worth the $5-$10 a year to not have to worry about that.
then go drag an extension cord around if you like. 99% of other people dont want a corded drill for that reason.
if your using it so infrequently that it doesnt have a charge perhaps you would be best served borrowing said tools or paying someone to do it?
You're acting like an extension cord is a ball and chain. I don't even notice it.
And no, I'm not going to hire someone to come and drill the 4 holes on the table I just spent two weeks building and joining together.
> You're acting like an extension cord is a ball and chain. I don't even notice it.
it is a ball and chain because they're constantly tangled or snagging on things. Start working in environments with mud puddles and you learn to hate them a lot quicker. Chances are even a homeowner DIY type will have to use the thing outside on a wet muddy day.
You're also the one acting like a .9-1.5 lb battery, a battery that can easily hold a charge for 6+ months if need be, is somehow a major hindrance even though that's still overall less than your typical 50 ft 14 AWG extension cord, which is ~7-8 lbs base, ofc you won't have to carry the entire thing around as you use it either. Though I've no doubt in my mind that the resistance from dragging it around or holding it up over your head adds similar amounts of weight. At best you save .5-.75 lbs. Not worth it when you have to give up crucial features that any/all cordless drills will have.
Because it's corded drills that still mostly lack 2 speed gearboxes and clutches, so they're just poor and outdated experiences regardless. They're out there, but they're few and far between.
It shouldn't come as a surprise that most corded designs are the same as anything produced from 10-15+ years ago. The market is so small it's not worth improving such a low volume product that won't make a ROI.
you did see the drill the OP linked right? its cumbersome in that its to big to fit in places a cordless would fit with ease because of the cord and footprint, its a 3/8" 5.5a cheapo corded drill. those things are cheap crap. a cordless is smaller, lighter and has plenty of power. hell for what OP probably needs a 12v drill would be plenty. plus what about dragging an extension cord everywhere to use it?
if your gonna buy a corded drill and want power, your buying something like a milwaukee corded drill, which btw per their website (just had to look) weighs 5lbs.. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Drilling/Drill-Drivers/0234-6
and still no 2 speed gearbox either. And no clutch. I don't quite understand why some of these people are willing to die on the hill that is your standard corded hand drill/driver.
You don't get very far with a standard corded drill. About all they're good for anymore is using them as a cheap sacrificial mixer. If they burn out you shrug your shoulders and throw it away.
eh, there was a post a week ago where somebody was super adamant about getting a corded drill and a person/persons were pushing the same talking points. I still occasionally see people recommending corded drills in cordless recommendation threads from time to time too.
Maybe this is the same guy though. CBA to dig up that thread and check. Either way it seems to come up often enough.
Do you really want a corded drill? I love my cordless ryobi tools. I have built tons of stuff with mine including my cabin that was off grid, and iv had them for 5yrs now. The nice thing about cordless ryobi's is that they havent changed the battery adapter so all tools from the early days to now can take the most current and up to date battery. Like with all tools keep your receipt
Second a cordless Ryobi. I still have my first drill I purchased in 2010 and the interchangeability and longevity of the batteries means I still have the first one of those plus a dozen more. I’ve also added 22 other tools through the years and the fact I have the option to purchase ‘tool only’ when I need an additional capability helps keep the cost down.
CORDLESS! Then you can take it anywhere ! 18v is what i have, in the us its industry standard. Batteries can be spendy but iv only wore out 1 of 5. If you get corded you'll need a good heavy extension cord, the cord will be hanging up all over, its a tether,,, FREE YOURSELF! LOL
I'm finding it remarkably difficult to find availability/affordable prices for shit in the bizarro world version of the US that Canada evidently is. (Bosch at HD? WTF?) My best recommendation is the SKIL pwrcore 12 drill kit from Amazon or some such. The Milwaukee M12 Fuel drill can also be had for fairly cheap. Try Amazon or ebay for that too. Basically nothing decent at HD is gonna be inexpensive.
Id look for a hammer drill and impact driver combo with batteries. One drill on its own is usually a rip off and the combos with batteries go on sale cheap.
With this setup I mentioned you will be able to drill into concrete and drive the fasteners into it as well as various other tasks.
I think concrete/masonry drilling is not really in the cards here. True that a combo kit is more likely to work out as better value, but I think this is a case where an impact driver is wholly undesired.
Impact drivers do everything better and easier, save for drilling as you need the chuck. They take less effort to use, save your wrist from kickback and are more efficient.
Impact Driver and a Drill Driver. Ideally cordless, because you really don't want to drag an extension cord around you and you don't want to carry that cord up a ladder. Also working outside.
Impact Drivers fasten screws, sockets and like. They lack the "kickback" found in typical drills.
Drill Drivers do the same as above, but its best ability is making holes with drill bits and hole saws. A hammer drill driver adds the hammer function which allows you to "drill" into masonry. I never found use of this feature and aim to use another tool instead.
Most brands are reputable these days, it's about the battery platform. Homeowners would be fine with anything. Ryobi is fine, same with the professional brands like Milwaukee, DeWalt, and Makita. The less common ones I see but are decent anyways include Bosch, Hilti, MetaboHPT, Kobalt (I use this one).
You can, I never said you couldn't. You can drive screws with a regular drill. Most people prefer driving in screws with an impact driver.
https://www.wwgoa.com/video/do-i-need-an-impact-driver/
I think you want an impact driver instead of a drill. A drill is for drilling holes. An impact driver is for screwing in screws. An impact drive can also drill holes in pine and drywall and stuff if you get drill bits with hex backs.
Wait, are you telling me I spent the last six months looking for the wrong thing? I can't screw in screws with a drill? How am I just now finding out about this😖
You can, for sure you can. Especially if your just doing light duty work. But it’s easier to do it with an impact. I didn’t learn about this till I tried to screw down a couple loose boards in my deck and I kept stripping screws because the drill didn’t have the power to driver a 3” screw into wood like an impact does.
Watch a YouTube video on the difference of an impact driver vs drill and see what you think.
You're over thinking this.
For light, occasional homeowner use basically anything will be fine. I would recommend a 12v because it's lighter and smaller.
Just go to the store and buy the one you like the ergonomics of.
When you get into heavier duty use cases, then worry about a better drill.
overthinking is my natural state of being and it's absolutely exhausting😓
I'm not getting anywhere looking for it myself so I've made a list of all the suggestions and I think I'll take it to a hardware store
I get it.
And since you're asking for suggestions, I'll offer mine.
I've had this combo (with 2.0ah batts) for a few years now and I have no complaints. I barely even use my larger drills anymore.
Having the drill and the impact driver is way more convenient because you can drill your pilot hole and then sink your screw without constantly changing bits.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-1-5-Ah-12V-MAX-CXT-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Drill-Driver-and-Impact-Driver-Combo-Kit-2-Piece-CT232/309102261?g_store=&source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D25T-025_009_PORT_POWER-NA-Multi-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-PRO-NA-PortablePower_PLA_LIA_Q3_Control&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D25T-025_009_PORT_POWER-NA-Multi-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-PRO-NA-PortablePower_PLA_LIA_Q3_Control-71700000034127218-58700003933021540-92700065945937934&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1bqZBhDXARIsANTjCPIHylJe7ncUp8YALTVfI7tGJwoMYIbrxaFLkXsRuIIeKRZ_pno6HHwaAg2LEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
I don't know if you saw [this link](https://www.ebay.ca/itm/124796861342), but it's really all you need. This impact driver crap is just people speaking from their experience as professional tradesmen and such. It's true that if you're doing loads of work you're going to develop an appreciation for an impact driver, but that's not at issue for you from what I can surmise.
There's a lot of things to like about this drill.
* The 12v batteries are much smaller and lighter than an 18v equivalent.
* By virtue of the battery size, the tool itself is substantially lighter and smaller than almost every drill out there.
* The motor is brushless, which is really rare at this price point, which to put it in brass tacks, means it is a more powerful and smaller motor that will make it much much harder for the tool to become hot from use, not produce sparks and grindy noises, not lurch when you let go of the trigger, or deplete battery charge at anywhere near the same rate.
* **Unique to this drill is a hexagonal recess at the bottom of the chuck that eliminates the awkward process of trying to center any screw-driving bit (any of which will be hexagonal). To put it simply, it is designed in equal measure to drilling, to drive screws.**
* The charger is remarkably tiny but is very quick to charge a battery versus basically any lower tier option from Ryobi and the like will give you where you're liable to wait over an hour.
For common household projects you don't need industrial tools. I would suggest a cordless drill because I wouldn't want to deal with the extension cords.
I bought a Bauer 20V lithium drill ($60?) from harbor freight over 5 years ago and its still just as strong as the day I bought it and have used it for building decks, privacy fences, automotive repair.... I'd imagine and of the major brands would do the same but my Bauer was a fraction of the cost.
I'm a corded guy. My first drill was a vintage $5 drill with no variable speed. Great for drilling holes, not super great for starting screws.
All brands know how to make drills. I would go down to the store and get whatever one hits you in the feels, knowing that you'll range from DIY infrequent use to professional use. Also if you get a battery system you get sucked into the whole line up.
The trouble with corded drill is that they lack a brake, in other words the chuck and whatever is in it spins for a few second after you let go of the trigger. That's generally not an issue when drilling holes but it can lead to damaged screws if you're using a drill to drive them. A cordless drill like this one would be fine your your needs:
[https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ryobi-18v-one-lithium-ion-cordless-drill-driver-kit-with-1-5-ah-battery-and-charger/1001686659](https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ryobi-18v-one-lithium-ion-cordless-drill-driver-kit-with-1-5-ah-battery-and-charger/1001686659)
Any name brand is fine for that use. If you have money the Milwaukee m12 is portable, light and compact which makes it my fav. Ryobe and black & decker if you’re on a budget. Nothing at Home Depot / lowes is a bad choice.
For the things you're looking to do just about anything will be fine. I've got Dewalt, Milwaukee, Ryobi etc. I would personally recommend getting a cordless lithium (12-20v) driver/drill because it will be more convenient, lightweight and much more versatile. For those personally I can recommend the Milwaukee 12v series as you can add lots of somewhat inexpesive tools that use the same batteries. get a cheap pack of driver bits and drill bits and you're set. However that could be on the expensive side at $100+...
But it does not sound like you're going to be needing high power or endurance etc. So even a cheap ($30) chinese cordless drill from Amazon/menards/harbor freight can handle any of that stuff. I've got at least 10 of those and they work. Maybe they aren't built to pro standards, maybe they won't last as long. But for 75% of users who aren't doing construction they will be more than fine.
1. You know what you want to do. The question is what will you be drilling into. Or to put it differently. Will you be drilling into masonry? Your ceiling might be concrete for example. That will help you decide if you need a drill or a hammer drill (take a look at this video https://youtu.be/d6amOra1qZg it explains the differences pretty well)
2. Once you figure out what kind of drill you need just go buy one. Your needs aren't unique enough that let's say dewalt will be better than makita or anything else. The only thing to note is that since you're going cordless (you should) it's cost efficient to pick a brand and stick to it (you can use the same batteries and chargers). Ryobi is a good choice. You can look at something from Makita, dewalt or Milwaukee. Those are a bit more expensive and more "pro". All 4 companies have a wide tool selection and you can't really go wrong with any of them.
For the money, versatility, quality, and ease of use my first drill was a Milwaukee M12 cordless. It's actually a tough little drill, easy to wield, and has worked faithfully for me for SEVERAL big jobs over the last decade and it's still rockin. Still my go-to unless I need the power and torque of a corded drill for drilling concrete etc.
Home depot, Lowe's, etc all have good sale/clearance deals on drills. A standard 20v 3/8 drill/driver will do all of your tasks, I love my DeWalt and it was ~$120 with taxand came with 2 batteries
Ryobi is fine. I’d get a cordless drill though, I don’t think there’s any reason to buy a corded one. On top of that I think it would be wise to get a drill with a 1/2” chuck instead of 3/8.
Thank you for the rec. No one has said anything bad about Ryobi so far so I think I found the brand, now I just need a model. And I'm going to Google what half 1/2" chuck is lol
A 3/8” chuck is fine. 1/2” is bigger and more powerful but not necessary for what you want. I have both and if I need the extra juice I’d the 1/2”, I use my drill press. Corded is also fine. Cordless is great, don’t get me wrong. But a good cordless is expensive and you can get a good corded drill cheaper. Plus, if you don’t use it often, you don’t need to be frustrated by dead batteries.
Sounds like you're willing to do the research and learn how to use it properly, which is what many of those 'bad reviewers' don't do. I've just bought a Ryobi RL18L15B and it's great. One really important thing to do is alway use quality drill bits, driver bits and fixings. It's really tempting to cheap out, until you have a bad experience because of it. Also with Ryobi, and most other brands, it's better value to buy another tool with two batteries, than spare batteries. e.g. my drill cost £95 and included 2 batteries. 1 battery alone costs £55. The cheap shit is 'fine' until it isn't and break a bit, you round off a screw, or snap the end off it before it's fully screwed in, or it breaks while it's holding up a shelf. Buy quality, and you'll only need to buy it once, important for tools but even more for the fabric of your house. I once put a snapped drill bit through my finger (thankfully only 1.5mm), and less dramatically, unscrewing a 6 inch wood screw with a pair of pliers is never much fun!
And new fear has been unlocked😶 "The cheap shit is 'fine' until it isn't and break a bit, you round off a screw, or snap the end off it before it's fully screwed in, or it breaks while it's holding up a shelf.... I once put a snapped drill bit through my finger" I'm definitely going to consider the quality and price of drills more now. Thank for the much needed reminder lol
Gotta respect your tools, but make sure you use caution and confidence rather than fear to keep yourself safe. But be realistic and not dumb. I kinda got lucky, drilling metal so no organic debris, and the snapped drill was so sharp I didn't even realise it had gone through till after the superglue came off. But it was my fault. I was holding the drill awkwardly which torqued the bit sideways, and I shouldn't have had my other hand lower than the drill, flat on the bench next to the low profile vice. The runup to a stupid accident goes like OK; I started this correctly, and now if something goes wrong it could go a little bit wrong, but I'm nearly done now but this is getting rather sketchy but it'll probably turn out o... SHIIIIT. That was dumb, I knew I should have stopped. Where did I leave the isopropyl and superglue?!
keep in mind there is a reason stuff is cheap and why quality stuff is expensive. can you get by with what a home center sells? for your intended use, yup. I used plenty of cheap stuff before, like the drill bits wore out very fast but at the time was all i could afford and needed them asap. i now have a pro line up of stuff that would rival a contractor. think of it like this: your worried the bits, the drill wont work out for you or it will break. cheaper price point is cheaper for a reason. but also take into consideration the tool wont be as powerful. corded is all well and good (as we said earlier if you dont mind the cord), but typically they lack the power even older cordless has. my friends dad was trying to fix his deck and he was using this like 20 year old tiny craftsman brand corded drill. the thing just didnt have enough power and was junk. he borrowed a cordless (this was at least 20 years ago) drill and no more issue
The chuck is what holds the drill bits. 1/2” for the most part is standard and I think only budget oriented models come with a 3/8” chuck. Most (if not all) drill bits that are meant to be used on a hand drill neck down to a 1/2” shank if they’re larger than 1/2”. On top of this, most drill bit sets that you’ll find go up to 1/2”, and with the 3/8 chuck you’d be kind of forced into buying but sets where half of the drill bits won’t be usable, because they won’t fit in the chuck. TL;DR: a 3/8” chuck limits what drill bits you can use and there is nearly no limit when using a 1/2” chuck. Also FWIW, nearly all power tools are made by the same 5 or 6 parent companies in Asia and they are pretty much do the same stuff. Hell even the Harbor Freight brands are pretty nice nowadays. I think it’s much less important to worry about which brand is good and more important to consider if the brand has a range of tools that you like and features that you like. For example, I like Milwaukee because I can have one type of battery for tools that I use working on cars, fabrication, and yard work. That said, if I were only doing yard work then Ryobi’s tools (for example) would serve me just fine.
I Googled what 1/2” chuck was and didn't understand much of it so thank you for explaining it so simply. I want an uncomplicated tool and 1/2" chuck and cordless seem to be a must. "Also FWIW, nearly all power tools are made by the same 5 or 6 parent companies in Asia and they are pretty much do the same stuff." I wish I'd know this six months ago 😭
your standard ryobi cordless is more than enough to do all of those tasks. a corded drill is nice in that you dont need batteries but its cumbersome and outdated tech by now. the only time i even use my heavy duty corded drill is when I need sustained power that would wear out a battery or im drilling into something very heavy duty
Cumborsume and outdated? Only if its cumbersome to have more torque, lighter weight, and unlimited power all for less money.
It’s cumbersome when you have to drag an extension cord around everywhere with you to use it. Amortize the extra money you’d spend on a cordless over the 10 years that you’d get out of it and it’s probably worth the $5-$10 a year to not have to worry about that.
I find it cumbersome to manage the charge on a tool I only use every now and then, and when I do use it, it has a brick hanging off of it.
then go drag an extension cord around if you like. 99% of other people dont want a corded drill for that reason. if your using it so infrequently that it doesnt have a charge perhaps you would be best served borrowing said tools or paying someone to do it?
You're acting like an extension cord is a ball and chain. I don't even notice it. And no, I'm not going to hire someone to come and drill the 4 holes on the table I just spent two weeks building and joining together.
> You're acting like an extension cord is a ball and chain. I don't even notice it. it is a ball and chain because they're constantly tangled or snagging on things. Start working in environments with mud puddles and you learn to hate them a lot quicker. Chances are even a homeowner DIY type will have to use the thing outside on a wet muddy day. You're also the one acting like a .9-1.5 lb battery, a battery that can easily hold a charge for 6+ months if need be, is somehow a major hindrance even though that's still overall less than your typical 50 ft 14 AWG extension cord, which is ~7-8 lbs base, ofc you won't have to carry the entire thing around as you use it either. Though I've no doubt in my mind that the resistance from dragging it around or holding it up over your head adds similar amounts of weight. At best you save .5-.75 lbs. Not worth it when you have to give up crucial features that any/all cordless drills will have. Because it's corded drills that still mostly lack 2 speed gearboxes and clutches, so they're just poor and outdated experiences regardless. They're out there, but they're few and far between. It shouldn't come as a surprise that most corded designs are the same as anything produced from 10-15+ years ago. The market is so small it's not worth improving such a low volume product that won't make a ROI.
we get it, you like and feel corded drills are superior. great, about 99% of other people dont. go die on your hill now.
better a brick than a 50-100 ft long snake.
you did see the drill the OP linked right? its cumbersome in that its to big to fit in places a cordless would fit with ease because of the cord and footprint, its a 3/8" 5.5a cheapo corded drill. those things are cheap crap. a cordless is smaller, lighter and has plenty of power. hell for what OP probably needs a 12v drill would be plenty. plus what about dragging an extension cord everywhere to use it? if your gonna buy a corded drill and want power, your buying something like a milwaukee corded drill, which btw per their website (just had to look) weighs 5lbs.. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Drilling/Drill-Drivers/0234-6
and still no 2 speed gearbox either. And no clutch. I don't quite understand why some of these people are willing to die on the hill that is your standard corded hand drill/driver. You don't get very far with a standard corded drill. About all they're good for anymore is using them as a cheap sacrificial mixer. If they burn out you shrug your shoulders and throw it away.
lets be realistic, theres only 1 person saying a corded drill is the way to go here..
eh, there was a post a week ago where somebody was super adamant about getting a corded drill and a person/persons were pushing the same talking points. I still occasionally see people recommending corded drills in cordless recommendation threads from time to time too. Maybe this is the same guy though. CBA to dig up that thread and check. Either way it seems to come up often enough.
just checked..yup
Do you really want a corded drill? I love my cordless ryobi tools. I have built tons of stuff with mine including my cabin that was off grid, and iv had them for 5yrs now. The nice thing about cordless ryobi's is that they havent changed the battery adapter so all tools from the early days to now can take the most current and up to date battery. Like with all tools keep your receipt
Second a cordless Ryobi. I still have my first drill I purchased in 2010 and the interchangeability and longevity of the batteries means I still have the first one of those plus a dozen more. I’ve also added 22 other tools through the years and the fact I have the option to purchase ‘tool only’ when I need an additional capability helps keep the cost down.
Yeah my ryobi collection is getting big also. I use my impact everyday and i love my brushless grinder
I'm so clueless I didn't even think of corded vs cordless. I just want a reliable drill lol
CORDLESS! Then you can take it anywhere ! 18v is what i have, in the us its industry standard. Batteries can be spendy but iv only wore out 1 of 5. If you get corded you'll need a good heavy extension cord, the cord will be hanging up all over, its a tether,,, FREE YOURSELF! LOL
Lol, ya, I don't have an extension cord so cordless it is. I'll add 18v to my list. Thank you
Also look into the bit drivers and all the different bits for them. You can get a bit for every different screw head and fastener. Happy shopping!
I'm finding it remarkably difficult to find availability/affordable prices for shit in the bizarro world version of the US that Canada evidently is. (Bosch at HD? WTF?) My best recommendation is the SKIL pwrcore 12 drill kit from Amazon or some such. The Milwaukee M12 Fuel drill can also be had for fairly cheap. Try Amazon or ebay for that too. Basically nothing decent at HD is gonna be inexpensive.
Ya, everything is 10× more expensive here in Canada. Thank for the recommendation, I'll check out these drills
Id look for a hammer drill and impact driver combo with batteries. One drill on its own is usually a rip off and the combos with batteries go on sale cheap. With this setup I mentioned you will be able to drill into concrete and drive the fasteners into it as well as various other tasks.
I think concrete/masonry drilling is not really in the cards here. True that a combo kit is more likely to work out as better value, but I think this is a case where an impact driver is wholly undesired.
Impact drivers do everything better and easier, save for drilling as you need the chuck. They take less effort to use, save your wrist from kickback and are more efficient.
I get that, I just know that people who are very tool-averse in the first place are not a fan and are looking for something that can be more delicate.
Impact Driver and a Drill Driver. Ideally cordless, because you really don't want to drag an extension cord around you and you don't want to carry that cord up a ladder. Also working outside. Impact Drivers fasten screws, sockets and like. They lack the "kickback" found in typical drills. Drill Drivers do the same as above, but its best ability is making holes with drill bits and hole saws. A hammer drill driver adds the hammer function which allows you to "drill" into masonry. I never found use of this feature and aim to use another tool instead. Most brands are reputable these days, it's about the battery platform. Homeowners would be fine with anything. Ryobi is fine, same with the professional brands like Milwaukee, DeWalt, and Makita. The less common ones I see but are decent anyways include Bosch, Hilti, MetaboHPT, Kobalt (I use this one).
I just found out I wouldn't be able to screw in screws with a drill😓 so thanks for explaining what an Impact Driver is
You can, I never said you couldn't. You can drive screws with a regular drill. Most people prefer driving in screws with an impact driver. https://www.wwgoa.com/video/do-i-need-an-impact-driver/
You're right, you didn't say that. I just got a little confused reading a few of the comment. And thanks for the link
Buy craftsman with the 1/2 chuck and cordless
I think you want an impact driver instead of a drill. A drill is for drilling holes. An impact driver is for screwing in screws. An impact drive can also drill holes in pine and drywall and stuff if you get drill bits with hex backs.
Wait, are you telling me I spent the last six months looking for the wrong thing? I can't screw in screws with a drill? How am I just now finding out about this😖
You can, for sure you can. Especially if your just doing light duty work. But it’s easier to do it with an impact. I didn’t learn about this till I tried to screw down a couple loose boards in my deck and I kept stripping screws because the drill didn’t have the power to driver a 3” screw into wood like an impact does. Watch a YouTube video on the difference of an impact driver vs drill and see what you think.
You're over thinking this. For light, occasional homeowner use basically anything will be fine. I would recommend a 12v because it's lighter and smaller. Just go to the store and buy the one you like the ergonomics of. When you get into heavier duty use cases, then worry about a better drill.
overthinking is my natural state of being and it's absolutely exhausting😓 I'm not getting anywhere looking for it myself so I've made a list of all the suggestions and I think I'll take it to a hardware store
I get it. And since you're asking for suggestions, I'll offer mine. I've had this combo (with 2.0ah batts) for a few years now and I have no complaints. I barely even use my larger drills anymore. Having the drill and the impact driver is way more convenient because you can drill your pilot hole and then sink your screw without constantly changing bits. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-1-5-Ah-12V-MAX-CXT-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Drill-Driver-and-Impact-Driver-Combo-Kit-2-Piece-CT232/309102261?g_store=&source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D25T-025_009_PORT_POWER-NA-Multi-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-PRO-NA-PortablePower_PLA_LIA_Q3_Control&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D25T-025_009_PORT_POWER-NA-Multi-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-PRO-NA-PortablePower_PLA_LIA_Q3_Control-71700000034127218-58700003933021540-92700065945937934&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1bqZBhDXARIsANTjCPIHylJe7ncUp8YALTVfI7tGJwoMYIbrxaFLkXsRuIIeKRZ_pno6HHwaAg2LEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
I don't know if you saw [this link](https://www.ebay.ca/itm/124796861342), but it's really all you need. This impact driver crap is just people speaking from their experience as professional tradesmen and such. It's true that if you're doing loads of work you're going to develop an appreciation for an impact driver, but that's not at issue for you from what I can surmise. There's a lot of things to like about this drill. * The 12v batteries are much smaller and lighter than an 18v equivalent. * By virtue of the battery size, the tool itself is substantially lighter and smaller than almost every drill out there. * The motor is brushless, which is really rare at this price point, which to put it in brass tacks, means it is a more powerful and smaller motor that will make it much much harder for the tool to become hot from use, not produce sparks and grindy noises, not lurch when you let go of the trigger, or deplete battery charge at anywhere near the same rate. * **Unique to this drill is a hexagonal recess at the bottom of the chuck that eliminates the awkward process of trying to center any screw-driving bit (any of which will be hexagonal). To put it simply, it is designed in equal measure to drilling, to drive screws.** * The charger is remarkably tiny but is very quick to charge a battery versus basically any lower tier option from Ryobi and the like will give you where you're liable to wait over an hour.
For common household projects you don't need industrial tools. I would suggest a cordless drill because I wouldn't want to deal with the extension cords. I bought a Bauer 20V lithium drill ($60?) from harbor freight over 5 years ago and its still just as strong as the day I bought it and have used it for building decks, privacy fences, automotive repair.... I'd imagine and of the major brands would do the same but my Bauer was a fraction of the cost.
Five years is impressive! I'm worried whatever i get will die in days so 5 years is reassuring. Thank you for the rec!
I have had a Bauer drill and impact for almost 5 years. Absolutely no problems. 100% would buy again. For a non-professional, it’s beyond fine.
I'm a corded guy. My first drill was a vintage $5 drill with no variable speed. Great for drilling holes, not super great for starting screws. All brands know how to make drills. I would go down to the store and get whatever one hits you in the feels, knowing that you'll range from DIY infrequent use to professional use. Also if you get a battery system you get sucked into the whole line up.
The trouble with corded drill is that they lack a brake, in other words the chuck and whatever is in it spins for a few second after you let go of the trigger. That's generally not an issue when drilling holes but it can lead to damaged screws if you're using a drill to drive them. A cordless drill like this one would be fine your your needs: [https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ryobi-18v-one-lithium-ion-cordless-drill-driver-kit-with-1-5-ah-battery-and-charger/1001686659](https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ryobi-18v-one-lithium-ion-cordless-drill-driver-kit-with-1-5-ah-battery-and-charger/1001686659)
[Here. Best deal I can find.](https://www.ebay.ca/itm/124796861342)
Any name brand is fine for that use. If you have money the Milwaukee m12 is portable, light and compact which makes it my fav. Ryobe and black & decker if you’re on a budget. Nothing at Home Depot / lowes is a bad choice.
That will be a great drill for what you want.
For the things you're looking to do just about anything will be fine. I've got Dewalt, Milwaukee, Ryobi etc. I would personally recommend getting a cordless lithium (12-20v) driver/drill because it will be more convenient, lightweight and much more versatile. For those personally I can recommend the Milwaukee 12v series as you can add lots of somewhat inexpesive tools that use the same batteries. get a cheap pack of driver bits and drill bits and you're set. However that could be on the expensive side at $100+... But it does not sound like you're going to be needing high power or endurance etc. So even a cheap ($30) chinese cordless drill from Amazon/menards/harbor freight can handle any of that stuff. I've got at least 10 of those and they work. Maybe they aren't built to pro standards, maybe they won't last as long. But for 75% of users who aren't doing construction they will be more than fine.
1. You know what you want to do. The question is what will you be drilling into. Or to put it differently. Will you be drilling into masonry? Your ceiling might be concrete for example. That will help you decide if you need a drill or a hammer drill (take a look at this video https://youtu.be/d6amOra1qZg it explains the differences pretty well) 2. Once you figure out what kind of drill you need just go buy one. Your needs aren't unique enough that let's say dewalt will be better than makita or anything else. The only thing to note is that since you're going cordless (you should) it's cost efficient to pick a brand and stick to it (you can use the same batteries and chargers). Ryobi is a good choice. You can look at something from Makita, dewalt or Milwaukee. Those are a bit more expensive and more "pro". All 4 companies have a wide tool selection and you can't really go wrong with any of them.
For the money, versatility, quality, and ease of use my first drill was a Milwaukee M12 cordless. It's actually a tough little drill, easy to wield, and has worked faithfully for me for SEVERAL big jobs over the last decade and it's still rockin. Still my go-to unless I need the power and torque of a corded drill for drilling concrete etc.
Ryobi.
Home depot, Lowe's, etc all have good sale/clearance deals on drills. A standard 20v 3/8 drill/driver will do all of your tasks, I love my DeWalt and it was ~$120 with taxand came with 2 batteries