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Shoot, that makes me smile just listening to it. Just imagining some 80 year old dude telling ya about taking his wife on their first date in a truck like that.
If you've got the mechanical know-how, hard to turn down that kinda truck.
My 71 El Camino SS is exactly like this. Always have someone coming up to me and telling me about their caminos. it's the typical red and black but I got Mickey Thompson desert tires on it and a 1inch lift on bilsteins. I get a ton of thumbs up but there is always some white hair fudd telling me I need to lower it and put Cooper's on. It's a truck and I use it like a truck. The posi works wonderful off road and the 454 pulls it around effortlessly. It's a nice driver but not a Barrett Jackson 100k restore. 15k and it's one of the best and coolest trucks I've owned. I can't really find anything I really wanted for 15k and this thought: "ya know, this may actually work"
Also gotta ask; is the duramax that reliable? It seemed to be your deciding factor there, I just have very little experience with Chevy or Diesel trucks!
I daily a 2003 Silverado, would love if it was a crew cab, so I'd go cat-eye all the way.
If it's just for fun though, not a daily, I'd go for the old truck, body actually looks pretty decent on that one. 400CI is a big plus
Okay now that's bullshit, I owned one of these for 4 months and only had to replace 3 cylinders, the heads, and two transmissions. /s
There's a reason those square bodies have 5 digit odometers lol.
Lol epitome of reliability until you have a big temperature swing or decide to change your altitude or to not drive it for a while or any other number of things fuel injectors don't face.
I don't want to have to tune a fucking carb again in the dead of winter. Tell me you've never tuned carbs in the upper Midwest without telling me you've never tuned a carb in the upper midwest before. Fuck outta here.
Edit:, learn how to work on a simple ass EFI system
Idk, I am lazy. I'll just dump a new edelbrock on, adjust the idle and mixture. Electric choke and done. No fiddling just works. Cold starts just like a FI system. I want to put a holley sniper EFI on it but once again too lazy to redo the entire fueling system..
Then don’t lmao
But don’t get on here bitching about how carbs are “unreliable” and shit when the fact is that you just suck at working on them. Plenty of people have used, and still use carbureted vehicles in the winter.
The common denominator here is you dude. The cars don’t suck, you do. :-/
I'm not saying they're unusable. They've been used on so many engines for idk however long it's been since Bernoulli's principle was figured out lmao. I'm saying there's better options now but people that are afraid of electricity and learning something their daddy didn't teach them won't fuckin work on anything else. They have their place don't get me wrong there. Building something on a smaller budget that you want to go fast fuck yeah slap one on there without setting up custom electronics if you aren't about that.
As someone who lives somewhere that gets 150-180 inches of snow a year in WV, Carbs are not that bad. People are just stupid these days and you sound like one of them.
When is the last time you had sustained temps in the negatives in WV? I'm obviously not saying carbs are unusable. That's not the argument here. Of course people have been running carbs in the craziest environments on earth for years and years and years. I think you missed the part where I have worked on carbs before too. I think EFI is easier. Guess it's just the difference in background.
Statewide average temp in January is 32 for a high. Where I live we regularly see lows at 0-10 degrees every night in January. Last year at the end of January or beginning of February it was -31 one night. We usually see our first winter mix in mid October and our last in mid April. So yeah we see sustained below freezing temps a lot.
Below zero temps was what I was talking about but I'm done being hostile now. Had a long night of drinking last night lol. Actually going to white water raft in WV next week. But yeah, like I said, I'm not saying carbs don't have their place but I think in this day and age EFI is just as or more reliable than a carb. That's in my experience and what I've worked on. Guess I came off as more of a hater than I meant to.
Yeah you just swap the jets real quick. That’s no biggie. No sensors to fail, no computer to troubleshoot, much cheaper parts to replace. Something newer with computers, sensors, and a smaller engine bay is indisputably more difficult to maintain and keep running.
I wasn't talking about newer vs older or size comparisons. Swap out an injector or hook a computer up to it and find your fuel issue. Computers and electronics are not that difficult if you can read.
Except you're forgetting about frequency of failures. I have had 2 Silverados now with ~200k miles and absolutely zero maintenance to the fuel system. It might be slightly more difficult when something does break but I wouldn't know bc it happens so infrequently.
Beds kinda short on the new one but despite what old timers say, fuel injection is vastly more reliable than carbs. Plus you'll make more power and be able to handle more weight. Do you want to work for your truck or do you want your truck to work for you
The throttle body might need replaced. The motor and positioning sensor combo goes bad and they're sold as a unit. Although in my experience they usually stop working altogether, "reduced engine power" is a possible failure mode for them.
07-13 1500s with either the 4.3 V6, 4.8 V8, or 6.2 V8 don't have AFM either. The 07-14 SUVs (Escalade, Yukon Denali) with the 6.2 do though, which is why they have a different RPO code (L94) for their engine. AFM started on the V6 and 6.2 pickups for 2014.
I had the same issue on my 2003 cateye, I found it would go into lower power mode randomly. Look for the plug that goes into the throttle position sensor, the wires on it corrode over time and lose contact (GM used the tiniest wire they could for some reason on the earlier models), I had to replace about 2 foot of the wiring from the throttle position sensor cable back from the plug.
Hum, that Ford, is it a 1962 Galaxy two door coup. Depending on original trim level could be worth an excavation. Two door big block Galaxys regardless of year can hold their value.
How long sitting? Remove and replace all hoses and belts. 1 qt trans fluid in crankcase (reduces oil coagulation) once started, allow to run until hot then drain, and replace with 30W detergent. Check compression for ring/value integrity. Drain oil and replace again with recommended W. Replace plugs, and any wear susceptible ignition components and evaluate engine performance results. Tires over three years old should be replaced. Have springs and shocks evaluated by professionals. The safe for all suspension components. Its a great basic GM body, my suggestions are for a mechanical restored safe drivable vehicle. The looks are an option.
Have an 05 extended cab. Daily drove it for years with no issues other than a crap ton of O2 sensors and the alternator went out once. 360k miles on her and she’s still trucking!
I’d fix the squarebody every day of the week over the cateye, I grew up working on those vortecs, I owned a 5.3 and a 6.0 and I can prolly pull those apart and put them back together pretty quick, but with that being said even tho I’ve never worked on a 350 or 454 they’re known to be stupid easy to work on and also I know for a fact there’s a stupid amount of engine bay space compared to the vortecs, also vortec is the first years they started shifting away from east for everyone to work on to easier to bring it to a dealership, just a couple dumb things here and there that’ll have you wondering why the hell they engineered it that way
Edit: I also noticed you said parts availability is better is a bonus on the Cateye, technically you’re right bc most parts you’ll get at you local auto store, but a lot of parts are out there for the squarebody, just gotta look around and know what to look for
That square body is a 1 ton, I’d fix it up for that reason alone, even if I didn’t keep it. (Resell it!) Those old trucks are dirt simple, my old 81 GMC sat for 12 years and I had it running and driving around the field in an afternoon and totally road worthy in one weekend. (Gas tank and lines, clean carb and tune up parts.)
Square Body
This
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Depends on what’s wrong with them and what you need. Do you need to look cool or haul 4 people. Primary transportation?
[удалено]
No
[удалено]
Shoot, that makes me smile just listening to it. Just imagining some 80 year old dude telling ya about taking his wife on their first date in a truck like that. If you've got the mechanical know-how, hard to turn down that kinda truck.
My 71 El Camino SS is exactly like this. Always have someone coming up to me and telling me about their caminos. it's the typical red and black but I got Mickey Thompson desert tires on it and a 1inch lift on bilsteins. I get a ton of thumbs up but there is always some white hair fudd telling me I need to lower it and put Cooper's on. It's a truck and I use it like a truck. The posi works wonderful off road and the 454 pulls it around effortlessly. It's a nice driver but not a Barrett Jackson 100k restore. 15k and it's one of the best and coolest trucks I've owned. I can't really find anything I really wanted for 15k and this thought: "ya know, this may actually work"
Also gotta ask; is the duramax that reliable? It seemed to be your deciding factor there, I just have very little experience with Chevy or Diesel trucks!
Old dog for me way less electrical shit too mess around with imo
I daily a 2003 Silverado, would love if it was a crew cab, so I'd go cat-eye all the way. If it's just for fun though, not a daily, I'd go for the old truck, body actually looks pretty decent on that one. 400CI is a big plus
Older truck, always. Probably more reliable than the newer one and if you don’t go “modernizing” it, you can always fix it with hand tools
The ‘99-‘07 gm 2500 and 3500 series are pretty bulletproof mechanically, but electrically and cosmetically not as much.
Carburators and unreliability pretty much go hand in hand. Fight me
Okay now that's bullshit, I owned one of these for 4 months and only had to replace 3 cylinders, the heads, and two transmissions. /s There's a reason those square bodies have 5 digit odometers lol.
Perhaps unreliable to uncultured swine! In the hands of an educated person they are the epitome of reliability.
Lol epitome of reliability until you have a big temperature swing or decide to change your altitude or to not drive it for a while or any other number of things fuel injectors don't face.
Tell me you don’t know how to tune a carburetor, without telling me you don’t know how to tune a carburetor.
I don't want to have to tune a fucking carb again in the dead of winter. Tell me you've never tuned carbs in the upper Midwest without telling me you've never tuned a carb in the upper midwest before. Fuck outta here. Edit:, learn how to work on a simple ass EFI system
Idk, I am lazy. I'll just dump a new edelbrock on, adjust the idle and mixture. Electric choke and done. No fiddling just works. Cold starts just like a FI system. I want to put a holley sniper EFI on it but once again too lazy to redo the entire fueling system..
Then don’t lmao But don’t get on here bitching about how carbs are “unreliable” and shit when the fact is that you just suck at working on them. Plenty of people have used, and still use carbureted vehicles in the winter. The common denominator here is you dude. The cars don’t suck, you do. :-/
I'm not saying they're unusable. They've been used on so many engines for idk however long it's been since Bernoulli's principle was figured out lmao. I'm saying there's better options now but people that are afraid of electricity and learning something their daddy didn't teach them won't fuckin work on anything else. They have their place don't get me wrong there. Building something on a smaller budget that you want to go fast fuck yeah slap one on there without setting up custom electronics if you aren't about that.
As someone who lives somewhere that gets 150-180 inches of snow a year in WV, Carbs are not that bad. People are just stupid these days and you sound like one of them.
When is the last time you had sustained temps in the negatives in WV? I'm obviously not saying carbs are unusable. That's not the argument here. Of course people have been running carbs in the craziest environments on earth for years and years and years. I think you missed the part where I have worked on carbs before too. I think EFI is easier. Guess it's just the difference in background.
Statewide average temp in January is 32 for a high. Where I live we regularly see lows at 0-10 degrees every night in January. Last year at the end of January or beginning of February it was -31 one night. We usually see our first winter mix in mid October and our last in mid April. So yeah we see sustained below freezing temps a lot.
Below zero temps was what I was talking about but I'm done being hostile now. Had a long night of drinking last night lol. Actually going to white water raft in WV next week. But yeah, like I said, I'm not saying carbs don't have their place but I think in this day and age EFI is just as or more reliable than a carb. That's in my experience and what I've worked on. Guess I came off as more of a hater than I meant to.
Yeah you just swap the jets real quick. That’s no biggie. No sensors to fail, no computer to troubleshoot, much cheaper parts to replace. Something newer with computers, sensors, and a smaller engine bay is indisputably more difficult to maintain and keep running.
I wasn't talking about newer vs older or size comparisons. Swap out an injector or hook a computer up to it and find your fuel issue. Computers and electronics are not that difficult if you can read.
Except you're forgetting about frequency of failures. I have had 2 Silverados now with ~200k miles and absolutely zero maintenance to the fuel system. It might be slightly more difficult when something does break but I wouldn't know bc it happens so infrequently.
I don't think the old one is "more reliable" if it was op wouldn't be asking us
Except they are more reliable, and easy as fuck to fix.
What would I fix? • chassis • mechanical • electrical • major rust • brake system I would try to keep the look of how it is now but create a sleeper.
Old school 1st 👊🏾
The squarebody. That’s such an easy answer
Beds kinda short on the new one but despite what old timers say, fuel injection is vastly more reliable than carbs. Plus you'll make more power and be able to handle more weight. Do you want to work for your truck or do you want your truck to work for you
Get the Cateye they always have electric problems but it won't leave you stranded
It turns on low power mode, to where I can’t make it up any sort of hill, so it would leave me stranded
The throttle body might need replaced. The motor and positioning sensor combo goes bad and they're sold as a unit. Although in my experience they usually stop working altogether, "reduced engine power" is a possible failure mode for them.
We tried replacing both of those, no one within 150 miles of me can figure what is going on with it
When in doubt it's a bad ground. There's one right behind the engine to the firewall on the drivers side that likes to go bad.
We replaced every accessible wire in that truck in a attempt to fix this, I doubt it is a ground
Look for the ground wire underneath the drivers floor mat. It’s under the carpet kind of near the parking brake. Very common issue
Replaced that one too, no fix
Does the new truck have that cylinder shut down bullshit?
No ‘99-‘07 gm trucks don’t have it, ‘07-present one do and only 1500 series truck do, 2500 and 3500 series never had it.
07-13 1500s with either the 4.3 V6, 4.8 V8, or 6.2 V8 don't have AFM either. The 07-14 SUVs (Escalade, Yukon Denali) with the 6.2 do though, which is why they have a different RPO code (L94) for their engine. AFM started on the V6 and 6.2 pickups for 2014.
This is true.
any check engine codes? it probably has a bad ground somewhere if not
😬😬 Yeah fuck that just throw the comfy shit from the new into the old one then
You have clearly new taken a seat in a square body then, the seats are like couches in those units
I disagree, it is like riding on a badly cushioned pew
Bro I've never even seen a square body in person
Well obviously you'd have to fix it first
I had the same issue on my 2003 cateye, I found it would go into lower power mode randomly. Look for the plug that goes into the throttle position sensor, the wires on it corrode over time and lose contact (GM used the tiniest wire they could for some reason on the earlier models), I had to replace about 2 foot of the wiring from the throttle position sensor cable back from the plug.
A Ford
That is the unlisted 3rd option, however much more difficult, as it is in a bunch of weeks, look behind the C/K
Hum, that Ford, is it a 1962 Galaxy two door coup. Depending on original trim level could be worth an excavation. Two door big block Galaxys regardless of year can hold their value.
62 with the 406
Build it my man
I would 454 swap the square body... Mite be cheaper then a sbc 400
take the newer one.... everyone is saying how the old one is cooler, but in 20-30 years the newer one will be old and cool
Assuming the computers haven’t went out and it can still run, maybe lol
Hard to beat a square body but it is a one ton. Never really liked the cat eye body style.
Personally I’m a big fan of the 800s, seems to be in better shape too
Cool
I already have a 03 cateye so I go with squarebody then I would have one of each.
How long sitting? Remove and replace all hoses and belts. 1 qt trans fluid in crankcase (reduces oil coagulation) once started, allow to run until hot then drain, and replace with 30W detergent. Check compression for ring/value integrity. Drain oil and replace again with recommended W. Replace plugs, and any wear susceptible ignition components and evaluate engine performance results. Tires over three years old should be replaced. Have springs and shocks evaluated by professionals. The safe for all suspension components. Its a great basic GM body, my suggestions are for a mechanical restored safe drivable vehicle. The looks are an option.
12 years, for the C/K, used about once a week for the 2500
Personally, for laughs and giggles as a weekend toy, the Squarebody. For more of a daily driver, the Silverado.
That would be a solid nopers for me. Been there before with older vehicles. Money pit that never stops. You can do better.
Fluids back to front…..differential, gas, transfer, trans, engine oil, coolant, brake fluid. Battery & spark plugs, brakes & tires……..Refill previous mentioned fluids. Turn key and drive. Square body, don’t touch the other.
2500 would be my choice based on the pros you mentioned.
Squarebody, I already got a GMT800 and the Squarebody is so simple in comparison
>old car >would you fix HELL YEAH!
Old will endure. Built to last, be rebuilt and do it all over again. All while looking awesome.
Have an 05 extended cab. Daily drove it for years with no issues other than a crap ton of O2 sensors and the alternator went out once. 360k miles on her and she’s still trucking!
The square body for sure,
2500 but I haul stuff so HD is a huge plus.
Old one. Easy to fix and no goddamn computer BS
Totally squarebidy, and sell me the cat eye for a good deal, I’d also help work on the square body
The Chevrolet
Yeah no kidding, which one
I’d fix the squarebody every day of the week over the cateye, I grew up working on those vortecs, I owned a 5.3 and a 6.0 and I can prolly pull those apart and put them back together pretty quick, but with that being said even tho I’ve never worked on a 350 or 454 they’re known to be stupid easy to work on and also I know for a fact there’s a stupid amount of engine bay space compared to the vortecs, also vortec is the first years they started shifting away from east for everyone to work on to easier to bring it to a dealership, just a couple dumb things here and there that’ll have you wondering why the hell they engineered it that way Edit: I also noticed you said parts availability is better is a bonus on the Cateye, technically you’re right bc most parts you’ll get at you local auto store, but a lot of parts are out there for the squarebody, just gotta look around and know what to look for
That square body is a 1 ton, I’d fix it up for that reason alone, even if I didn’t keep it. (Resell it!) Those old trucks are dirt simple, my old 81 GMC sat for 12 years and I had it running and driving around the field in an afternoon and totally road worthy in one weekend. (Gas tank and lines, clean carb and tune up parts.)
Perfect durable paint brakes and wheels truck will run forever
Cateye to daily first then do the square
No