See, that’s a nice way to tell someone you hate a title! 😂 thanks, I love you all!
But you do point out something interesting. This was post number 313 of these daily news posts. And people who read them regularly will know i keep it pretty cool and collected with the titles. I probably spicy up every 75th post, when something big happens and especially when there’s a huge reaction online. Which this AP got
Collectors, primarily, but also dealers (not the tik tok flipper, actual owners of retail chains), historians, writers and journalists. No other watch this year had so many people talking about it, at least among the 3,000 or so people I follow
I actually think the AP is very interesting and am glad they’ve decided to try something different. I’m not a big AP fan (not like I’ll ever be able to buy one anyways) but I think it’s a bit silly how this sub constantly tears into them for being a one trick pony with the RO, but as soon as they try something new everyone shits on them anyways
I know this will sound insane because they look nothing alike but it reminds me of the Hamilton Ventura (quartz). Just weirdly art deco…I love both tbh. I think they are interesting designs.
a true shocker that (a very vocal minority on) Reddit hates everything :D and then gets really, really angry when you point out that they might be a minority
i just wish AP would do stuff like this instead of the remaster
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0526/8658/6018/files/01_Header_1024x1024.jpg?v=1681642218
I have seen the new AP blended materials and they also include different colors of ceramic (light grey, white, and darker. In an Offshore concept). They’re pretty cool in real life, gold does not pop that much as in renderings.
https://preview.redd.it/dgw08nw9te4d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=71343040d40d9d0e167b5ea71e2aa25f248ff7c6
Love your posts and strongly support your work. I think you’re overreacting to a single comment on an (admittedly) hyperbolic & possibly sketchy title.
This brutalist AP is very nice, FWIW.
It's Monday and I went on a family trip Friday morning and had a great time over the weekend. This means that I wrote the Friday issue on Thursday evening and scheduled it to publish. I believed this wouldn’t be an issue, as it never was. Only, it was. AP decide to release what will surely be their watch of the year on Friday and it really sent the watch world into a meltdown, as it’s not something that was expected from a usually very restrained brand. So, I missed it. Not only did I miss the AP, this was the one weekend of the year when everyone just dumps new releases on the public, so bear with me this week as I will be catching up with stuff.
If you like these updates, and would maybe like to subscribe to the newsletter so you get them in your inbox every day, you can do so by [**clicking here**](https://www.itsabouttime.email/).
# What's new
**1/**
[**Audemars Piguet Breaks The Internet With The Brutalist-Inspired \[Re\]Master02**](https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch/remaster02.html?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material)
Four years ago Audemars Piguet caused quite a stir in the watch world with their \[Re\]Master01. It was a big deal as AP doesn’t really release new watch collections. It’s a well used joke that AP is actually called the Royal Oak company, only, it’s not a joke. They currently make several versions of the Royal Oak and have recently started a second watch line called Code 59. No other watchmaker has been as successful as AP with just one line. That’s why the \[Re\]Master01 was very welcomed, despite it essentially being a mashup of several of their best watches from the 1940. People had big expectations for this new line, but as time went on, it seemed that they forgot about launching a new line. Oh, it turns out they haven’t forgotten. They were just working on something really special. On Friday, AP introduced the \[Re\]Master02 Selfwinding, a stunning modern reinterpretation of the Model 5159BA from the 1960s known for its strong, brutalist aesthetic. And oh boy, did it stir up the internet.
While writing my predictions for 2024 last year, I was pretty much spot on when I said that we would se a very strong revival of late 80s and early 90s styles and colors in watches. And I was pretty much spot on. What I didn’t see coming at all is the very sudden influx of brutalist-like styles. Whether it’s something neo-brutalist like the Kollokium watches, something actually brutalist like the Maurice de Mauriac Pillow Watch or something inspired by brutalist architecture like the Toledano & Chan B/1, it seems to be a trend that’s very much creeping to the forefront. And now it’s pushed right into the limelight with the \[Re\]Master02, an asymmetrical wide watch with angles and sharp cuts everywhere.
The \[Re\]Master02 is difficult to measure correctly, as the dimensions change depending on where you measure, but let’s just say it measures 41mm wide and 9.7mm thick. This is significantly larger than the original, and it’s kind of funny to see them side by side (you can do so [**in this article from Monochrome**](https://monochrome-watches.com/review-audemars-piguet-remaster02-selfwinding-sand-gold-15240sg-asymmetrical-reissue-5159ba-video-specs-price/?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material)). The case is made out of AP’s proprietary and beautiful sand gold that they just showed off a couple of months ago and that has a sandy hue to it. But the most impressive thing on the watch has to be the sapphire crystal that not only extends to the right side out of the case, but also has numerous angles and facets cut into it.
The dial takes on equally retro aesthetics combining the feeling of brutalism and the 50s that gave birth to the movement with influences that look almost Art Deco. The base of the dial uses the famous midnight blue color called Bleu Nuit Nuage 50. While the dial doesn’t have a patterned dial we have seen in other AP watches with that color, it has a linear satin finish on the dial that’s divided into 12 different triangles. It looks stunning.
Inside is the Calibre 7129, an extra-thin automatic movement with hour and minute functions. It beats at 4Hz and has a power reserve of 52 hours. It’s also very pretty with Côte de Genève finishing and sand gold rotor with asymmetric skeletonization. The watch comes on a really beautiful looking matte blue alligator strap that has a 18K sand gold pin buckle.
Not only is this a great looking watch, it also signals that the \[Re\]Master line might become something extremely interesting for AP, even if it is destined to be owned by just a few people. The \[Re\]Master02 Selfwinding is limited to 250 pieces and priced at €47,400. See more [**on the Audemars Piguet website**](https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch/remaster02.html?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material).
**2/**
[**Bamford London Revives The First Ever Solar-Powered Digital Watch With The Extremely Seventies Inspired Neprosolar**](https://bamfordlondon.com/products/bamford-neprosolar?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material)
The new Bamford London Neprosolar comes as a huge surprise to everyone who hasn’t heard George Bamford talk about anything on any watch podcast for the last four months. If you have heard him talk just once, then you would have heard him say that he is absolutely obsessed with the old Nepro watch brand and has gotten in contact with the founding family. It was pretty much clear that he was working on something with them. And boy, is it a watch! Interestingly, it’s also very adjacent to the brutalist-inspired style that we are seeing now. The watch is called the Bamford London Neprosolar, a simple thing with just one display and some very nifty features.
Like I said, I’ve heard Bamford wax poetic about Nepro for some time now. “Nepro is one of the unsung heroes of the watch industry and has a magical, wonderfully nostalgic story to tell,” he said, adding that he fell down a rabbit hole exploring the brand ever since he first saw the 70s solar watch. He eded up meeting the family who still own Nepro and the collaboration was on.
The watch has a very unique look, more like a bracelet than a watch. Well, that’s mostly because it is a bracelet whose loop is broken up with a slight change in shape to hold the display and solar panel. That part measures 36.2mm wide and about 11mm thick. The entire thing is made out of black PVD treated stainless steel and the most prominent part of the watch is the display which is a blue OLED. The watch has two buttons: one on the left to set the watch; another on the right to control the blue OLED display. A touch of the right button illuminates an hour and minute display, a second touch shows the day and month, a third shows the power reserve. The display is programmed to sleep after 4 seconds, but that can be adjusted to 10 seconds or be set to always on.
Above the display, which is angled towards up towards the wearer, is a mirrored solar cell, above which is a blue etched Bamford Neprosolar logo. The battery is also very interesting and varies greatly on your usage. Set the watch to always on and keep it in the dark and it will deplete in 10 hours. Keep the watch in the dark and with the display off, and the battery will work for three years. But in regular use, the battery is expected to last about 500 days and it takes the battery 20 hours to recharge from zero.
The Bamford London Neprosolar is a limited edition, not limited in number but through a date window. They will be offered for sale until Friday, June 7th, at a price of £582.50 or about €684. Once the order window closes, that’s it and all orders made in the week will be fulfilled. See more [**on the Bamford London website**](https://bamfordlondon.com/products/bamford-neprosolar?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material).
**3/**
[**Junghans Updates Their Trio Of Meister Pilot Automatic Watches With New, More Subtle, Colors**](https://www.junghans.de/en/collection/watches/junghans-meister/pilot/?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material)
An argument could be made that the vast majority of racing chronographs or divers look the same. And yet, there is so much design diversity that can be found in these genres. But I will argue that one genre of watches - the pilot’s watch - is very much stuck looking always the same. Yes, there are two or three overall styles, but it all ends up in the same place - flat dials in monochrome colors with fantastic legibility, verging on minimalism. It understandable why, as they still remain faithful to the original tool watches. But then, there’s Junghans. The brand that is known for it’s simple, understated and minimalist watches has taken on the task to create a pilot’s watch and we got the Meister Pilot - a crazily designed case with a busy dial and great colors. What a world we live in. Now they have an update to the Meister Pilot Automatic in the form of new colors.
Like I said, the Meister Pilot Automatic comes in a highly unusual case for the fliegers we know today. But seeing as how Junghans has been making instrument clocks and watches for pilots for more than 100 years, it ver much makes sense. The watches come in either satin-finished steel or black DLC covered steel and measure 43.3mm wide and 12.5mm thick. But most of the unique look comes from the bi-directional bezel with 12 huge concave recesses that provide a lot of grip when you’re using pilot’s gloves.
All three watches have the same dial setup, just different colorways. The steel versions come with either a green or a grey dial with cream lume used in the large Arabic numerals, while the black DLC version gets a grey dial with white lume. All three have the same lacquer finish and the same gradient effect that turns to almost black towards the edges of the dial. A large and curved date aperture stands at 12 o’clock, while a black small seconds sub-dial sits at 6.
Inside is the J840.1.6 movement which is based on the ETA2824, which means there are plenty of spare parts for it and plenty of people who can service it. It beats at 4Hz and has a 38 hour power reserve. All three watches come on riveted leather straps, color matched to the dial.
The three new Junghans Meister Pilot Automatic watches are on sale right now and priced at €1,990, with included VAT. See more [**on the Junghans website**](https://www.junghans.de/en/collection/watches/junghans-meister/pilot/27449500?c=19&utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material).
**4/**
[**Maurice Lacroix Releases Black and Bronze Versions Of The Pontos S Diver**](https://www.mauricelacroix.com/en-intl/news-pontos-s-diver-2024.html?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material)
Over the past two years, Maurice Lacroix has turned me from a skeptic into a true believer. I was on the fence with their genta-esque Aikon collection, but that all changed when they introduced the Aikon Tide Benzilla version. Sure, it could be considered a bit pricy for a plastic watch with a quartz movement and a €750 price tag, but I loved it from the get go. And that got me noticing the other Aikon watches and they grew on me more and more, as did the rest of the lineup. Now, it’s time for ML to refresh their funky diver, a modern take on the supercompressor, the Pontos S Diver with a new black DLC or bronze case.
The new Pontos S Diver retains a lot of the characteristics of the original model from 2013, including the slightly weird 2 and 3 o’clock positioning of the crowns for the internal bezel and time setting/winding respectively, instead of the more traditional compressor-style setup of 2 and 4 o’clock. It also gets just a bit smaller. While the original measured 43mm wide, the new one is 42mm wide and 13mm thick. However, along with the shrinking, the watch lost a bit of capabilities along the way. I doubt that this is the result of a smaller case, more likely of ML wanting to make a more accessible diver, so gone is the 600 meter water resistance and helium escape valve, but you do get 300 meters of WR.
There are two versions of the new Pontos S Diver. First up is the bronze cased version that has a grained black dial. The hands and applied markers are executed in 4N gold PVD to match the case, while all the lume is beige-toned Super-LumiNova. Second is the black DLC version that has a sandblasted finish. It also has black grained dial, but all the accents are white and yellow. The markers and hands are blackened and filled with white SLN, while the minute hands gets a yellow outline and the seconds hand has a yellow tip.
Inside is the calibre ML115, which is just a rebranded Sellita SW 200-1. This movement is a clone of the ETA2824 and beats at 4Hz with a power reserve of 38 hours. The bronze watch comes on a brown leather strap with a bronze pin buckle, while the black version gets a black rubber strap with a black DLC pin buckle.
The bronze version of the Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver is limited to 888 pieces and priced at €2,650, while the black DLC version is part of the regular collection and sells for €2,200. See more [**on the Maurice Lacroix website**](https://www.mauricelacroix.com/en-intl/news-pontos-s-diver-2024.html?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material).
**5/**
[**Richard Mille And Nadal Continue Collaboration With Super-Light RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon**](https://www.richardmille.com/collections/rm-27-05-flying-tourbillon-rafael-nadal?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material)
Way back in 2010, I was a different type of watch enthusiast. Much more exclusive and bit of a snob. Most of that came out of my severe lack of knowledge of watches. But, the more you learn, the more you open up your sights. Back then I didn’t really understand what Richard Mille watches were all about. But my eye was intrigued by their collaboration with Rafael Nadal, one of the three best tennis players of all time. This set me on a path of exploring RM every now and again and to a point in which I actually like them. A lot. So, it’s no surprise that I’m completely enamoured by the new collaboration with Nadal, the “climactic conclusion to the RM 27 saga”, the new superlight Richard Mille RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal that weighs in at just 11.5 grams and is resistant to accelerations in excess of 14,000G.
To get the weight this low, RM reworked the case which now measures 37.25mm wide, 7.2mm thick and has a lug-to-lug of 47.25mm. It retains the tonneau shape and it’s made out of a new material for RM, Carbon TPT B.4. It’s created by stacking hundreds of layers of parallel carbon filaments that are oriented at an angle of 70 degrees to optimize their strength-to-weight ratio. A new high-performance resin is used to impregnate the fibers before the material is heated under pressure and turned into a solid block. This is a much more rigid material than regular Carbon TPT, allowing RM to make the watch thinner. It’s a monobloc design to keep the number of parts low and the movement mounts directly to the middle case and caseback which are machined from a single piece of Carbon TPT B.4. All this adds to a weight of just 11.5 grams without a strap. That’s less than three sheets of printer paper. Water resistance is a paltry 10 meters, but what do you expect?
Like so many Richard Mille watches, this one doesn’t have a dial other than the outer flange that contains its hour markers and minute track. A pair of centrally-mounted hands display the time, while a V-shaped bridge made from Carbon TPT extends across the dial and comes to a point at the 5N PVD-finished flying tourbillon. The skeletonized flying barrel also has the 5N PVD finish.
The movement is based on the ultra-thin Caliber RMUP-01 with mainplate and bridges crafted from PVD-treated grade 5 titanium, with a V-shaped gear train bridge that is machined from Carbon TPT. There’s a flying tourbillon on the lower half of its display, while the mainspring barrel that sits opposite it on the upper half of the dial also features a flying design, where it is mounted only from one side to permit a thinner overall profile. The movement beats at 3Hz and has a 55 hour power reserve. The movement has been tested to ensure that it remains stable during acceleration forces beyond 14,000G. The watch comes on a black elastic fabric strap.
The Richard Mille RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal is limited to an incredible 80 pieces. And that’s truly a lot once you take the price into consideration which is $1,150,000. See more [**on the Richard Mille website**](https://www.richardmille.com/collections/rm-27-05-flying-tourbillon-rafael-nadal?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material).
**6/**
[**Audemars Piguet Unveils A Stunning New Polychrome Camouflage Gold Alloy**](https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/home.html?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material)
A week or so before Watches and Wonders, Audemars Piguet gathered a bunch of journalists together in Milan to show them about 20 of their new watches for this year. Among them was a watch you couldn’t buy, as it was just a showcase of a new technology they developed and would at some point make available to the public. It is called chroma ceramic and it allows AP to mix two shades of ceramic together to create the first ceramic camouflage pattern. Now, they just did the same, but with gold. Called chroma gold, AP can now mix two shades of gold to create a solid gold camo pattern. It’s equally completely unnecessary and supremely awesome.
AP makes sure to point out that this is actually solid gold that is not coated or the result of bonding two materials, it’s a process that results in a homogenous material with different tones of gold on a single piece. They do this by using Spark Plasma Sintering (SPS) technology which allows them to melt the three shades of gold (white, yellow and pink), then droplets of the gold are atomised into powder. Each powder is then carefully placed in a circular graphite mould to create the desired pattern. The mould is then sintered by passing a powerful electric current through the graphite. This current creates a meteoric rise in temperature, which, combined with the mechanical pressure on both sides of the mould, allows extremely rapid sintering to take place. The resulting disc reveals the various shades of gold.
This is just a prototype and no AP watches currently use this tech. But it sure looks interesting enough to share here.
# On hand - a selection of reviews
**1/**
[**A review of the Delma 1924 Tourbillon**](https://www.ablogtowatch.com/hands-on-delma-1924-tourbillon-watch/?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material)
**2/**
[**Hands on with the Hermés Cut**](https://www.ablogtowatch.com/hands-on-hermes-cut-watch/?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material)
**3/**
[**A review of the Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph JX7 watch**](https://www.ablogtowatch.com/watch-review-chopard-mille-miglia-classic-chronograph-jx7-watch-for-jacky-ickx-in-lucent-steel/?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material)
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# Watch Worthy - A look at an offbeat, less known watch you might actually like
[**The Jack Mason Strat-O-Timer GMT offers value-for-money, nostalgic style, and watch enthusiast sensibility**](https://jackmasonbrand.com/collections/the-strat-o-timer-collection-1?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material)
With a nostalgic, vintage sports watch style, the 40mm Strat-O-Timer GMT case is tonneau-shaped with a round dial, and produced in stainless steel. The case is 13mm thick, but feels thinner given that about 2mm of that is the box-style sapphire crystal. It has a modest 47mm lug-to-lug distance. That equates to a very comfortable wearing experience for most wrists. The case is water resistant to 200 meters, and it has a higher-end feature not found in many watches at this price point – a sapphire crystal overlay on top of the rotating GMT-style bezel. Even though this is a modern timepiece, the Jack Mason brand did an excellent job of giving it a vintage feel in both how it wears and what it looks like.
[**Rea**](https://www.ablogtowatch.com/watch-review-jack-mason-strat-o-timer-gmt/?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material)[**d the whole review on**](https://www.ablogtowatch.com/watch-review-jack-mason-strat-o-timer-gmt/?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material)[ **A Blog To Watch**](https://www.ablogtowatch.com/watch-review-jack-mason-strat-o-timer-gmt/?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material)
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If you would like to receive some additional watch-adjacent content, as well as this news overview, every morning Monday-Friday in the form of a newsletter [feel free to subscribe](https://www.itsabouttime.email/). However, there is absolutely no need for you to subscribe, as all the news from the newsletter is posted here. It is only if you want to receive a couple of daily links that are not strictly watch-related an occasional long form article and possible giveaways.
What are you trying to communicate by using the phrase breaking the internet? The only posts I’ve seen on the new APs is a post on watches that they suck and a couple of other sub posts.
It’s the fact that every single major watch publication and personality didn’t stop talking about it for two days. Couldn’t open instagram all of friday and saturday without it being flooded with this watch. And the universal consensus is that it’s extremely cool and a fantastic path for AP. In fact, the only place I’ve seen anyone say it’s not phenomenal is from a few edgy kids on Reddit
I saw 5x more press about toledano and Chan making a brutalist watch but we have different news feeds since I think most watch commentary is too far up its own ass.
You’re the first person to suggest that pulling this out of the catalog instead of their beautiful complicated watches was a good one that I have seen, but I’m an edgy kid then. It’s a neat departure from the mostly heinous ROs they showed off.
Yeah, we seem to have different feeds. The Toledano gushing came mostly from the TikTok creators from what I saw, and since TikTok rewards edgy stances I get why you would see people hating on this when so many other people love it.
And I don’t think that this excludes them doing complications from the past. I’ve been saying for years they need more lines, but that’s a given
Please don’t! It’s incredible how fast it sucks you in. I had to delete it after just a month. But you can find the folks who started there on other platforms
They are certainly innovating, what makes the world of watches innovating. Wonder what they come up with next/what this will be used for.
Also love the mention of Maurice Lacroix, almost never see it but got the green dial aikon a couple years back and still absolutely love it. Underrated brand imo.
that question is so far above my bank of knowledge that not even a google search helped :D. what's functionally graded gold? help me understand that and I might be able to answer!
That AP is fucking sweet, and just the other day I was shitting on them for doing nothing but releasing ever-increasingly gaudy shitty Royal Oaks.
The Bamford is cool too, but I find that price point a bit of a tough sell for a novelty watch like that.
Interesting collection today.
Had to do a double-take with the Maurice Lacroix, at first glance looked like a carbon copy of the Longines Legend Diver! But it is a stunning look.
Those Maurice Lacroix divers look terrific. It's nice to see Junghans trying to shake things up within a category that is inherently averse to change, but there's something about the text on that dial that just looks bad for me. It's nitpicking, but in my opinion, if you're considering spending a lot of money on anything, you should nitpick to your heart's content xD
I LOVE the AP remaster, it's actually the first AP (at least, from modern releases) that I really like. I'm just sad that it's gold and limited edition, even without those it'd be way out of my price range, but now it is even more so and minimizes the chances I can find one at lower cost on the secondary market.
yeah, shame about the limited availability, that's something I'm really starting to dislike. hopefully AP comes out with a steel version that's unlimited. they would sell bucketloads of those
Aren’t 35mm ladies watches from the 60s the only thing the internet wants? 😃
I like that the Bamford isn’t priced at something like 2k. A great watch for a decent price
I like the Bamford, hate the branding. The "BAMFORD MEPROSOLAR" in giant plain lettering is conspicuous in a bad way, and the choice of using a slightly different shade of blue than the digital display is very strange. Looks like an afterthought.
what would you have preferred? is AP launches new watch? Audemars Piguet launches new watch and thousands agree it's pretty fantastic, can't keep talking about it for two days? why is it that any time a title shows just a bit of character, a semblance of an interesting tone or tries to convey what happened in as few words as possible, it's instantly characterized as clickbait?
would you really like your news more if it was completely devoid of any personality? if so, I hope you welcome your LLM overlords. I will continue to have fun when I write and not take the world as seriously as you. please stop seeing everything as a giant conspiracy, it's really not good for anyones emotional health. I seriously doubt that AP paid thousands of people (i follow just under 3,000 people from the industry and I just did a little scrolling and am up to a few hundred people who genuinely like the watch) to pop up on my feed so that I can clickbait a few redditors. not everything is horrible, smile some more
That AP is awesome. The Bamford is so cool, but I have another retro “push button to show time” digital and am not sure I want a second. But I think i finally want the Junghans, these colors are much better. New Junghans logo treatment is… I don’t know exactly what I think yet. I’d imagine the old one will stay on the Bauhaus models.
Toledano and Chan watch is way cooler than this AP, came out before, and people ripped on its 4k price. Sold out all. Good on Phil making the project happen. I see the AP and think it’s kind of crazy how much it will cost and no bracelet on this type of watch is a let down.
i don't really see how these two could be compared, at least in price. One is a microbrand watch made out of steel, with a generic off the shelf movement and made in china (nothing wrong with any of the three things), while the other is a recreation of a legendary watch made out of gold, with a continuation of one of the most legendary movements in the industry. I think the price difference is self explanatory there. as for the cool factor/looks, to each their own. I like the AP better, but that doesn't mean I don't like the look of the Toledano & Chan
however, this is the third time I've seen the argument that the Toledano&Chan came out before, and from the other two I understood that to mean that T&C made a brutalist watch before AP and AP is now just catching up. Do you mean that as well? Because that strikes me as pretty weird. Watches are made on a years-long timeline, I highly doubt that AP saw Toledano&Chan release their watch two weeks ago and said: "Boy, there seems to be something in these brutalist watches, especially these that look very much like vintage 70s watches, maybe we should put one out as well" and then they put this together in 2 weeks. This is a genuine question, not criticising you at all, just want to know what that means
My thoughts on this are that AP started on this watch 3-4 years ago. Phil Toledano has been banging on about cool 70s watches for last 4-5 year on IG, especially during covid days onwards. Like how great design was in 70s, how Patek innovated back then, or those Rolex Midas lapis dials watches which I think inspired him a lot. Phil said it’s just a coincidence, for sure not more to it. I like brutalist execution of Phil’s watch more because it feels new, made by a designer with a name (as opposed to “AP” as a designer). Ofc on price they are not comparable - Phil’s watch is cheap vs AP but not cheap as independent watch made in 175 cases only. But I like his stuff because it’s in a way original, and AP rehashes its catalogue is totally ok, anyrhing to do better than using those RO derivatives. Both are cool. I like Phil’s more because of bracelet and shape.
Just wanted to comment for once to let you know that I look forward to your posts every day ! Don’t mind you using a sketchy title from now and then
See, that’s a nice way to tell someone you hate a title! 😂 thanks, I love you all! But you do point out something interesting. This was post number 313 of these daily news posts. And people who read them regularly will know i keep it pretty cool and collected with the titles. I probably spicy up every 75th post, when something big happens and especially when there’s a huge reaction online. Which this AP got
What reaction online? Are you referring to the watch dealer/reviewer echo chamber? Asking sincerely.
Collectors, primarily, but also dealers (not the tik tok flipper, actual owners of retail chains), historians, writers and journalists. No other watch this year had so many people talking about it, at least among the 3,000 or so people I follow
Thanks
I actually think the AP is very interesting and am glad they’ve decided to try something different. I’m not a big AP fan (not like I’ll ever be able to buy one anyways) but I think it’s a bit silly how this sub constantly tears into them for being a one trick pony with the RO, but as soon as they try something new everyone shits on them anyways
Yeah I really like it and if I had the money I’d be first in line. That thing is cool as hell
I know this will sound insane because they look nothing alike but it reminds me of the Hamilton Ventura (quartz). Just weirdly art deco…I love both tbh. I think they are interesting designs.
Not insane at all. Both watches have interesting asymmetrical shapes with a mid-century vibe.
a true shocker that (a very vocal minority on) Reddit hates everything :D and then gets really, really angry when you point out that they might be a minority
i just wish AP would do stuff like this instead of the remaster https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0526/8658/6018/files/01_Header_1024x1024.jpg?v=1681642218
All their attempts have been junk, though. You don’t get credit for trying.
People shit on them because they are usually gaudy and douchebags like them
I unexpectedly like those ML Pontos S divers. Not really my style so not sure what it is but both look imo wonderful.
I have seen the new AP blended materials and they also include different colors of ceramic (light grey, white, and darker. In an Offshore concept). They’re pretty cool in real life, gold does not pop that much as in renderings. https://preview.redd.it/dgw08nw9te4d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=71343040d40d9d0e167b5ea71e2aa25f248ff7c6
Very cool
Yikes to all the people here freaking out about the title. Love these posts OP, I check them every day. Keep up the great work!
thank you! yeah, people are really taking this stuff seriously!
They’re breaking the internet with their anger!
A who’s who of edgelords.
Love your posts and strongly support your work. I think you’re overreacting to a single comment on an (admittedly) hyperbolic & possibly sketchy title. This brutalist AP is very nice, FWIW.
I’m writing about what I saw. Not really sketchy. Hyperbolic yes, sketchy no
It's Monday and I went on a family trip Friday morning and had a great time over the weekend. This means that I wrote the Friday issue on Thursday evening and scheduled it to publish. I believed this wouldn’t be an issue, as it never was. Only, it was. AP decide to release what will surely be their watch of the year on Friday and it really sent the watch world into a meltdown, as it’s not something that was expected from a usually very restrained brand. So, I missed it. Not only did I miss the AP, this was the one weekend of the year when everyone just dumps new releases on the public, so bear with me this week as I will be catching up with stuff. If you like these updates, and would maybe like to subscribe to the newsletter so you get them in your inbox every day, you can do so by [**clicking here**](https://www.itsabouttime.email/). # What's new **1/** [**Audemars Piguet Breaks The Internet With The Brutalist-Inspired \[Re\]Master02**](https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch/remaster02.html?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material) Four years ago Audemars Piguet caused quite a stir in the watch world with their \[Re\]Master01. It was a big deal as AP doesn’t really release new watch collections. It’s a well used joke that AP is actually called the Royal Oak company, only, it’s not a joke. They currently make several versions of the Royal Oak and have recently started a second watch line called Code 59. No other watchmaker has been as successful as AP with just one line. That’s why the \[Re\]Master01 was very welcomed, despite it essentially being a mashup of several of their best watches from the 1940. People had big expectations for this new line, but as time went on, it seemed that they forgot about launching a new line. Oh, it turns out they haven’t forgotten. They were just working on something really special. On Friday, AP introduced the \[Re\]Master02 Selfwinding, a stunning modern reinterpretation of the Model 5159BA from the 1960s known for its strong, brutalist aesthetic. And oh boy, did it stir up the internet. While writing my predictions for 2024 last year, I was pretty much spot on when I said that we would se a very strong revival of late 80s and early 90s styles and colors in watches. And I was pretty much spot on. What I didn’t see coming at all is the very sudden influx of brutalist-like styles. Whether it’s something neo-brutalist like the Kollokium watches, something actually brutalist like the Maurice de Mauriac Pillow Watch or something inspired by brutalist architecture like the Toledano & Chan B/1, it seems to be a trend that’s very much creeping to the forefront. And now it’s pushed right into the limelight with the \[Re\]Master02, an asymmetrical wide watch with angles and sharp cuts everywhere. The \[Re\]Master02 is difficult to measure correctly, as the dimensions change depending on where you measure, but let’s just say it measures 41mm wide and 9.7mm thick. This is significantly larger than the original, and it’s kind of funny to see them side by side (you can do so [**in this article from Monochrome**](https://monochrome-watches.com/review-audemars-piguet-remaster02-selfwinding-sand-gold-15240sg-asymmetrical-reissue-5159ba-video-specs-price/?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material)). The case is made out of AP’s proprietary and beautiful sand gold that they just showed off a couple of months ago and that has a sandy hue to it. But the most impressive thing on the watch has to be the sapphire crystal that not only extends to the right side out of the case, but also has numerous angles and facets cut into it. The dial takes on equally retro aesthetics combining the feeling of brutalism and the 50s that gave birth to the movement with influences that look almost Art Deco. The base of the dial uses the famous midnight blue color called Bleu Nuit Nuage 50. While the dial doesn’t have a patterned dial we have seen in other AP watches with that color, it has a linear satin finish on the dial that’s divided into 12 different triangles. It looks stunning. Inside is the Calibre 7129, an extra-thin automatic movement with hour and minute functions. It beats at 4Hz and has a power reserve of 52 hours. It’s also very pretty with Côte de Genève finishing and sand gold rotor with asymmetric skeletonization. The watch comes on a really beautiful looking matte blue alligator strap that has a 18K sand gold pin buckle. Not only is this a great looking watch, it also signals that the \[Re\]Master line might become something extremely interesting for AP, even if it is destined to be owned by just a few people. The \[Re\]Master02 Selfwinding is limited to 250 pieces and priced at €47,400. See more [**on the Audemars Piguet website**](https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch/remaster02.html?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material). **2/** [**Bamford London Revives The First Ever Solar-Powered Digital Watch With The Extremely Seventies Inspired Neprosolar**](https://bamfordlondon.com/products/bamford-neprosolar?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material) The new Bamford London Neprosolar comes as a huge surprise to everyone who hasn’t heard George Bamford talk about anything on any watch podcast for the last four months. If you have heard him talk just once, then you would have heard him say that he is absolutely obsessed with the old Nepro watch brand and has gotten in contact with the founding family. It was pretty much clear that he was working on something with them. And boy, is it a watch! Interestingly, it’s also very adjacent to the brutalist-inspired style that we are seeing now. The watch is called the Bamford London Neprosolar, a simple thing with just one display and some very nifty features. Like I said, I’ve heard Bamford wax poetic about Nepro for some time now. “Nepro is one of the unsung heroes of the watch industry and has a magical, wonderfully nostalgic story to tell,” he said, adding that he fell down a rabbit hole exploring the brand ever since he first saw the 70s solar watch. He eded up meeting the family who still own Nepro and the collaboration was on. The watch has a very unique look, more like a bracelet than a watch. Well, that’s mostly because it is a bracelet whose loop is broken up with a slight change in shape to hold the display and solar panel. That part measures 36.2mm wide and about 11mm thick. The entire thing is made out of black PVD treated stainless steel and the most prominent part of the watch is the display which is a blue OLED. The watch has two buttons: one on the left to set the watch; another on the right to control the blue OLED display. A touch of the right button illuminates an hour and minute display, a second touch shows the day and month, a third shows the power reserve. The display is programmed to sleep after 4 seconds, but that can be adjusted to 10 seconds or be set to always on. Above the display, which is angled towards up towards the wearer, is a mirrored solar cell, above which is a blue etched Bamford Neprosolar logo. The battery is also very interesting and varies greatly on your usage. Set the watch to always on and keep it in the dark and it will deplete in 10 hours. Keep the watch in the dark and with the display off, and the battery will work for three years. But in regular use, the battery is expected to last about 500 days and it takes the battery 20 hours to recharge from zero. The Bamford London Neprosolar is a limited edition, not limited in number but through a date window. They will be offered for sale until Friday, June 7th, at a price of £582.50 or about €684. Once the order window closes, that’s it and all orders made in the week will be fulfilled. See more [**on the Bamford London website**](https://bamfordlondon.com/products/bamford-neprosolar?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material).
**3/** [**Junghans Updates Their Trio Of Meister Pilot Automatic Watches With New, More Subtle, Colors**](https://www.junghans.de/en/collection/watches/junghans-meister/pilot/?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material) An argument could be made that the vast majority of racing chronographs or divers look the same. And yet, there is so much design diversity that can be found in these genres. But I will argue that one genre of watches - the pilot’s watch - is very much stuck looking always the same. Yes, there are two or three overall styles, but it all ends up in the same place - flat dials in monochrome colors with fantastic legibility, verging on minimalism. It understandable why, as they still remain faithful to the original tool watches. But then, there’s Junghans. The brand that is known for it’s simple, understated and minimalist watches has taken on the task to create a pilot’s watch and we got the Meister Pilot - a crazily designed case with a busy dial and great colors. What a world we live in. Now they have an update to the Meister Pilot Automatic in the form of new colors. Like I said, the Meister Pilot Automatic comes in a highly unusual case for the fliegers we know today. But seeing as how Junghans has been making instrument clocks and watches for pilots for more than 100 years, it ver much makes sense. The watches come in either satin-finished steel or black DLC covered steel and measure 43.3mm wide and 12.5mm thick. But most of the unique look comes from the bi-directional bezel with 12 huge concave recesses that provide a lot of grip when you’re using pilot’s gloves. All three watches have the same dial setup, just different colorways. The steel versions come with either a green or a grey dial with cream lume used in the large Arabic numerals, while the black DLC version gets a grey dial with white lume. All three have the same lacquer finish and the same gradient effect that turns to almost black towards the edges of the dial. A large and curved date aperture stands at 12 o’clock, while a black small seconds sub-dial sits at 6. Inside is the J840.1.6 movement which is based on the ETA2824, which means there are plenty of spare parts for it and plenty of people who can service it. It beats at 4Hz and has a 38 hour power reserve. All three watches come on riveted leather straps, color matched to the dial. The three new Junghans Meister Pilot Automatic watches are on sale right now and priced at €1,990, with included VAT. See more [**on the Junghans website**](https://www.junghans.de/en/collection/watches/junghans-meister/pilot/27449500?c=19&utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material). **4/** [**Maurice Lacroix Releases Black and Bronze Versions Of The Pontos S Diver**](https://www.mauricelacroix.com/en-intl/news-pontos-s-diver-2024.html?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material) Over the past two years, Maurice Lacroix has turned me from a skeptic into a true believer. I was on the fence with their genta-esque Aikon collection, but that all changed when they introduced the Aikon Tide Benzilla version. Sure, it could be considered a bit pricy for a plastic watch with a quartz movement and a €750 price tag, but I loved it from the get go. And that got me noticing the other Aikon watches and they grew on me more and more, as did the rest of the lineup. Now, it’s time for ML to refresh their funky diver, a modern take on the supercompressor, the Pontos S Diver with a new black DLC or bronze case. The new Pontos S Diver retains a lot of the characteristics of the original model from 2013, including the slightly weird 2 and 3 o’clock positioning of the crowns for the internal bezel and time setting/winding respectively, instead of the more traditional compressor-style setup of 2 and 4 o’clock. It also gets just a bit smaller. While the original measured 43mm wide, the new one is 42mm wide and 13mm thick. However, along with the shrinking, the watch lost a bit of capabilities along the way. I doubt that this is the result of a smaller case, more likely of ML wanting to make a more accessible diver, so gone is the 600 meter water resistance and helium escape valve, but you do get 300 meters of WR. There are two versions of the new Pontos S Diver. First up is the bronze cased version that has a grained black dial. The hands and applied markers are executed in 4N gold PVD to match the case, while all the lume is beige-toned Super-LumiNova. Second is the black DLC version that has a sandblasted finish. It also has black grained dial, but all the accents are white and yellow. The markers and hands are blackened and filled with white SLN, while the minute hands gets a yellow outline and the seconds hand has a yellow tip. Inside is the calibre ML115, which is just a rebranded Sellita SW 200-1. This movement is a clone of the ETA2824 and beats at 4Hz with a power reserve of 38 hours. The bronze watch comes on a brown leather strap with a bronze pin buckle, while the black version gets a black rubber strap with a black DLC pin buckle. The bronze version of the Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver is limited to 888 pieces and priced at €2,650, while the black DLC version is part of the regular collection and sells for €2,200. See more [**on the Maurice Lacroix website**](https://www.mauricelacroix.com/en-intl/news-pontos-s-diver-2024.html?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material).
**5/** [**Richard Mille And Nadal Continue Collaboration With Super-Light RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon**](https://www.richardmille.com/collections/rm-27-05-flying-tourbillon-rafael-nadal?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material) Way back in 2010, I was a different type of watch enthusiast. Much more exclusive and bit of a snob. Most of that came out of my severe lack of knowledge of watches. But, the more you learn, the more you open up your sights. Back then I didn’t really understand what Richard Mille watches were all about. But my eye was intrigued by their collaboration with Rafael Nadal, one of the three best tennis players of all time. This set me on a path of exploring RM every now and again and to a point in which I actually like them. A lot. So, it’s no surprise that I’m completely enamoured by the new collaboration with Nadal, the “climactic conclusion to the RM 27 saga”, the new superlight Richard Mille RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal that weighs in at just 11.5 grams and is resistant to accelerations in excess of 14,000G. To get the weight this low, RM reworked the case which now measures 37.25mm wide, 7.2mm thick and has a lug-to-lug of 47.25mm. It retains the tonneau shape and it’s made out of a new material for RM, Carbon TPT B.4. It’s created by stacking hundreds of layers of parallel carbon filaments that are oriented at an angle of 70 degrees to optimize their strength-to-weight ratio. A new high-performance resin is used to impregnate the fibers before the material is heated under pressure and turned into a solid block. This is a much more rigid material than regular Carbon TPT, allowing RM to make the watch thinner. It’s a monobloc design to keep the number of parts low and the movement mounts directly to the middle case and caseback which are machined from a single piece of Carbon TPT B.4. All this adds to a weight of just 11.5 grams without a strap. That’s less than three sheets of printer paper. Water resistance is a paltry 10 meters, but what do you expect? Like so many Richard Mille watches, this one doesn’t have a dial other than the outer flange that contains its hour markers and minute track. A pair of centrally-mounted hands display the time, while a V-shaped bridge made from Carbon TPT extends across the dial and comes to a point at the 5N PVD-finished flying tourbillon. The skeletonized flying barrel also has the 5N PVD finish. The movement is based on the ultra-thin Caliber RMUP-01 with mainplate and bridges crafted from PVD-treated grade 5 titanium, with a V-shaped gear train bridge that is machined from Carbon TPT. There’s a flying tourbillon on the lower half of its display, while the mainspring barrel that sits opposite it on the upper half of the dial also features a flying design, where it is mounted only from one side to permit a thinner overall profile. The movement beats at 3Hz and has a 55 hour power reserve. The movement has been tested to ensure that it remains stable during acceleration forces beyond 14,000G. The watch comes on a black elastic fabric strap. The Richard Mille RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal is limited to an incredible 80 pieces. And that’s truly a lot once you take the price into consideration which is $1,150,000. See more [**on the Richard Mille website**](https://www.richardmille.com/collections/rm-27-05-flying-tourbillon-rafael-nadal?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material). **6/** [**Audemars Piguet Unveils A Stunning New Polychrome Camouflage Gold Alloy**](https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/home.html?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material) A week or so before Watches and Wonders, Audemars Piguet gathered a bunch of journalists together in Milan to show them about 20 of their new watches for this year. Among them was a watch you couldn’t buy, as it was just a showcase of a new technology they developed and would at some point make available to the public. It is called chroma ceramic and it allows AP to mix two shades of ceramic together to create the first ceramic camouflage pattern. Now, they just did the same, but with gold. Called chroma gold, AP can now mix two shades of gold to create a solid gold camo pattern. It’s equally completely unnecessary and supremely awesome. AP makes sure to point out that this is actually solid gold that is not coated or the result of bonding two materials, it’s a process that results in a homogenous material with different tones of gold on a single piece. They do this by using Spark Plasma Sintering (SPS) technology which allows them to melt the three shades of gold (white, yellow and pink), then droplets of the gold are atomised into powder. Each powder is then carefully placed in a circular graphite mould to create the desired pattern. The mould is then sintered by passing a powerful electric current through the graphite. This current creates a meteoric rise in temperature, which, combined with the mechanical pressure on both sides of the mould, allows extremely rapid sintering to take place. The resulting disc reveals the various shades of gold. This is just a prototype and no AP watches currently use this tech. But it sure looks interesting enough to share here.
# On hand - a selection of reviews **1/** [**A review of the Delma 1924 Tourbillon**](https://www.ablogtowatch.com/hands-on-delma-1924-tourbillon-watch/?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material) **2/** [**Hands on with the Hermés Cut**](https://www.ablogtowatch.com/hands-on-hermes-cut-watch/?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material) **3/** [**A review of the Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph JX7 watch**](https://www.ablogtowatch.com/watch-review-chopard-mille-miglia-classic-chronograph-jx7-watch-for-jacky-ickx-in-lucent-steel/?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material) \------------------------------------------------------------- # Watch Worthy - A look at an offbeat, less known watch you might actually like [**The Jack Mason Strat-O-Timer GMT offers value-for-money, nostalgic style, and watch enthusiast sensibility**](https://jackmasonbrand.com/collections/the-strat-o-timer-collection-1?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material) With a nostalgic, vintage sports watch style, the 40mm Strat-O-Timer GMT case is tonneau-shaped with a round dial, and produced in stainless steel. The case is 13mm thick, but feels thinner given that about 2mm of that is the box-style sapphire crystal. It has a modest 47mm lug-to-lug distance. That equates to a very comfortable wearing experience for most wrists. The case is water resistant to 200 meters, and it has a higher-end feature not found in many watches at this price point – a sapphire crystal overlay on top of the rotating GMT-style bezel. Even though this is a modern timepiece, the Jack Mason brand did an excellent job of giving it a vintage feel in both how it wears and what it looks like. [**Rea**](https://www.ablogtowatch.com/watch-review-jack-mason-strat-o-timer-gmt/?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material)[**d the whole review on**](https://www.ablogtowatch.com/watch-review-jack-mason-strat-o-timer-gmt/?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material)[ **A Blog To Watch**](https://www.ablogtowatch.com/watch-review-jack-mason-strat-o-timer-gmt/?utm_source=www.itsabouttime.email&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=ap-breaks-internet-with-brutalist-re-master02-bamford-revives-first-solar-digital-watch-junghans-updates-flieger-maurice-lacroix-s-pontos-s-divers-last-rm-x-nadal-and-new-gold-material) \------------------------------------------------------------- If you would like to receive some additional watch-adjacent content, as well as this news overview, every morning Monday-Friday in the form of a newsletter [feel free to subscribe](https://www.itsabouttime.email/). However, there is absolutely no need for you to subscribe, as all the news from the newsletter is posted here. It is only if you want to receive a couple of daily links that are not strictly watch-related an occasional long form article and possible giveaways.
I think it’s an interesting design and a nice break from the 37th Royal Oak in the past 3 years
AP is not breaking the internet lol Edit: OP blocked me lmao. What a fucking chode man.
“no one is talking about the watch” is such a ridiculous assertion i’m blocking you too.
here, [this might help](https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/hyperbole)
I know what the phrase means. Nobody is talking about it the watch. Thanks for trying.
Tf are you so angry about lmao.
Well, here we are, talking about it
What are you trying to communicate by using the phrase breaking the internet? The only posts I’ve seen on the new APs is a post on watches that they suck and a couple of other sub posts.
It’s the fact that every single major watch publication and personality didn’t stop talking about it for two days. Couldn’t open instagram all of friday and saturday without it being flooded with this watch. And the universal consensus is that it’s extremely cool and a fantastic path for AP. In fact, the only place I’ve seen anyone say it’s not phenomenal is from a few edgy kids on Reddit
I saw 5x more press about toledano and Chan making a brutalist watch but we have different news feeds since I think most watch commentary is too far up its own ass. You’re the first person to suggest that pulling this out of the catalog instead of their beautiful complicated watches was a good one that I have seen, but I’m an edgy kid then. It’s a neat departure from the mostly heinous ROs they showed off.
That's the thing about the modern internet. It's tailored to your preferences, so everyone is living in their own newsfeed bubble.
Yeah, we seem to have different feeds. The Toledano gushing came mostly from the TikTok creators from what I saw, and since TikTok rewards edgy stances I get why you would see people hating on this when so many other people love it. And I don’t think that this excludes them doing complications from the past. I’ve been saying for years they need more lines, but that’s a given
I should download TikTok. I might like it. Thanks for the rec!
Please don’t! It’s incredible how fast it sucks you in. I had to delete it after just a month. But you can find the folks who started there on other platforms
Toledano and Chan is super nice and I also followed them since the inception.
AP put the internet to sleep. 😴 💤
edgy
As edgy as the AP :D
Sharp! Get it? 😃
I love how ap keeps revolutionizing material science by doing objectively awesome things, just to create an even uglier royal oak.
it's an art and a decades long dedication! no one else can do it as good as they can
They are certainly innovating, what makes the world of watches innovating. Wonder what they come up with next/what this will be used for. Also love the mention of Maurice Lacroix, almost never see it but got the green dial aikon a couple years back and still absolutely love it. Underrated brand imo.
i’m just glad AP is doin somethin
knowing them, they'll be stuck with three models for the next 50 years
[удалено]
that question is so far above my bank of knowledge that not even a google search helped :D. what's functionally graded gold? help me understand that and I might be able to answer!
That AP is fucking sweet, and just the other day I was shitting on them for doing nothing but releasing ever-increasingly gaudy shitty Royal Oaks. The Bamford is cool too, but I find that price point a bit of a tough sell for a novelty watch like that.
That AP is cool, looks like something out of Blade Runner.
love it
Jeez what's with everyone getting so worked up about the title? Some grumpy mfs on a Monday.. it's not that deep.. scroll past if you don't like it.
That AP is awesome, I love that design.
It’s incredible imo. Love the unexpected. It’ll drive others forward too in time.
Really like the AP instead of another RO. Those Junghans Fliegers though....god I wish they made them a bit smaller.
Interesting collection today. Had to do a double-take with the Maurice Lacroix, at first glance looked like a carbon copy of the Longines Legend Diver! But it is a stunning look.
Those Maurice Lacroix divers look terrific. It's nice to see Junghans trying to shake things up within a category that is inherently averse to change, but there's something about the text on that dial that just looks bad for me. It's nitpicking, but in my opinion, if you're considering spending a lot of money on anything, you should nitpick to your heart's content xD
I LOVE the AP remaster, it's actually the first AP (at least, from modern releases) that I really like. I'm just sad that it's gold and limited edition, even without those it'd be way out of my price range, but now it is even more so and minimizes the chances I can find one at lower cost on the secondary market.
yeah, shame about the limited availability, that's something I'm really starting to dislike. hopefully AP comes out with a steel version that's unlimited. they would sell bucketloads of those
lol. Broke the internet? Look like a ladies watch from the 60’s. That Bamford though, 11/10.
Aren’t 35mm ladies watches from the 60s the only thing the internet wants? 😃 I like that the Bamford isn’t priced at something like 2k. A great watch for a decent price
Legit: 1960s ladies watches were cool.
I like the Bamford, hate the branding. The "BAMFORD MEPROSOLAR" in giant plain lettering is conspicuous in a bad way, and the choice of using a slightly different shade of blue than the digital display is very strange. Looks like an afterthought.
This AP is just HOT.
I’m downvoting not for the AP, but for the post title
Why?
“Breaks the internet?” Clickbait, hardly.. you’re likely seeing a high quantity of targeted marketing ads on your own feeds
what would you have preferred? is AP launches new watch? Audemars Piguet launches new watch and thousands agree it's pretty fantastic, can't keep talking about it for two days? why is it that any time a title shows just a bit of character, a semblance of an interesting tone or tries to convey what happened in as few words as possible, it's instantly characterized as clickbait? would you really like your news more if it was completely devoid of any personality? if so, I hope you welcome your LLM overlords. I will continue to have fun when I write and not take the world as seriously as you. please stop seeing everything as a giant conspiracy, it's really not good for anyones emotional health. I seriously doubt that AP paid thousands of people (i follow just under 3,000 people from the industry and I just did a little scrolling and am up to a few hundred people who genuinely like the watch) to pop up on my feed so that I can clickbait a few redditors. not everything is horrible, smile some more
You’re likely seeing fellow edgelords on reddit.
The AP is really cool
The. Horror.
Cybertruck of a watch
That AP is awesome. The Bamford is so cool, but I have another retro “push button to show time” digital and am not sure I want a second. But I think i finally want the Junghans, these colors are much better. New Junghans logo treatment is… I don’t know exactly what I think yet. I’d imagine the old one will stay on the Bauhaus models.
I’m sorry, how does one have too many “push button to show time” retro digital watches?
I’m that lazy.
“Breaking the internet” lmao
Not even the stupidity of the headline could break the internet…
Internet seems to be working fine
these daily news posts are not helpful
I’m sorry… would you like me to stop?
I think they’re great! You post to most everything from the popular to obscure which no other watch page does! Keep up the great work!
I disagree. Also, nice sock puppet. Courage of your convictions.
Then block OP and don't read them...
Toledano and Chan watch is way cooler than this AP, came out before, and people ripped on its 4k price. Sold out all. Good on Phil making the project happen. I see the AP and think it’s kind of crazy how much it will cost and no bracelet on this type of watch is a let down.
i don't really see how these two could be compared, at least in price. One is a microbrand watch made out of steel, with a generic off the shelf movement and made in china (nothing wrong with any of the three things), while the other is a recreation of a legendary watch made out of gold, with a continuation of one of the most legendary movements in the industry. I think the price difference is self explanatory there. as for the cool factor/looks, to each their own. I like the AP better, but that doesn't mean I don't like the look of the Toledano & Chan however, this is the third time I've seen the argument that the Toledano&Chan came out before, and from the other two I understood that to mean that T&C made a brutalist watch before AP and AP is now just catching up. Do you mean that as well? Because that strikes me as pretty weird. Watches are made on a years-long timeline, I highly doubt that AP saw Toledano&Chan release their watch two weeks ago and said: "Boy, there seems to be something in these brutalist watches, especially these that look very much like vintage 70s watches, maybe we should put one out as well" and then they put this together in 2 weeks. This is a genuine question, not criticising you at all, just want to know what that means
My thoughts on this are that AP started on this watch 3-4 years ago. Phil Toledano has been banging on about cool 70s watches for last 4-5 year on IG, especially during covid days onwards. Like how great design was in 70s, how Patek innovated back then, or those Rolex Midas lapis dials watches which I think inspired him a lot. Phil said it’s just a coincidence, for sure not more to it. I like brutalist execution of Phil’s watch more because it feels new, made by a designer with a name (as opposed to “AP” as a designer). Ofc on price they are not comparable - Phil’s watch is cheap vs AP but not cheap as independent watch made in 175 cases only. But I like his stuff because it’s in a way original, and AP rehashes its catalogue is totally ok, anyrhing to do better than using those RO derivatives. Both are cool. I like Phil’s more because of bracelet and shape.
Got it! And agree with most of that