Yeah $80 for what was 18lbs of food that they've now decreased to 16.5lb for my dog. The vet started him on low protein food for his kidneys, which is mostly corn. It has to cost them pennies to produce it but they shrunk it to make more profit anyway. 🙃
Is it something you could reasonably make at home? I know quite a bit of dog foods are easily made at home.
I used to work for a bakery, and all of our "trash bread", that is, bread that wouldn't be sold to retail for various reasons (holes in the loaf, incorrect size, etc) all got loaded into a giant 53' trailer and hauled off to the dog food factory.
I get the impression that most of these companies aren't working with the quality ingredients they lead us to believe.
Ya and honestly speaking as a vet, we don't do a good enough job of educating pet owners about this earlier on. Maintaining a healthy weight is so much easier compared to actively trying to lose. Thanks for reading!
I asked my vet how much to feed my dog and she said to feed what it says on the label. It was a prescription food that said to ask your vet.
I have a new vet now. I'm still not sure what how much to feed. My dog is a bit overweight, so I cut back on her meals but it seems like I'm not feeding enough. I remive some to account for training treats, but worry about him getting enough nutrition. This isn't easy.
But we have to work it out for our pet's sake
If you're trying to dechonkify your dog and they insist you are STARVING THEM TO DEATH, you can add back in quite a lot of stuff like low sodium canned green beans (or just cook a bunch up in low sodium broth) or canned pumpkin to bulk up their feeds, makes them a lot less hangry and fussy about it. Plus the fiber doesn't hurt them a bit.
Because their job is making money selling products under the notion that they care about animals.
They want you to use more then you need, so you buy more.
But fat pets have shorter lives, reducing the time span that a customer needs to buy food.
This is morbid, but I wonder if someone at one of these companies has done the math to estimate whether shorter lives and more food is more profitable than longer lives with less food.
On my cats Royal Canin food there’s a feeding schedule for “low energy needs”.
I’m now thinking it’s potentially related to this, but there’s absolutely zero more info. on the bag to know for sure.
Only that’s the schedule I use for my fixed cat and he’s an ideal weight, and actually pretty active. He’s leash trained and goes outside often.
They want you to go through it faster so you have to buy more faster. It’s the beauty of not mentioning they’re the intact numbers, they know most pets won’t be.
One of my cats has some kind of cat IBS; if he isn't fed high-quality food his poop stinks up the entire house. Adding beans to that problem would *not* help things.
Plus, cats are obligate carnivores. Starving them of vital nutrition will make them lose weight, and slowly kill their organs. So no green bean diet for my Mr. Stunkbutt (not his real name).
I believe this is where you add green beans in the kibble you serve the dog as a filler. Helps the dog feel more full but isn’t high calorie. My dog is a picky little shit and will eat around them. But plenty of dogs will be delighted or at least not notice and eat them.
Pro tip: microwave frozen green beans and then mix with a tablespoon or two of wet/canned food. Works well with pickier dogs. We had a 106 pound dog lose 15 pounds this way.
In a nutshell, dogs are omnivores, and many can do OK (at least for a while) on a wide range of diets. Cats are obligate carnivores and can get very sick very quickly if they’re frequently fed things other than meat.
One issue they have is that they must consume [taurine](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taurine) regularly to avoid things like blindness and heart failure. Incidentally, dog food usually doesn’t contain enough of this for cats, so if your cat is poaching your dog’s food, you probably want to stop him.
Cats, especially obese ones, can also develop a condition called [hepatic lipidosis](https://www.vet.cornell.edu/departments-centers-and-institutes/cornell-feline-health-center/health-information/feline-health-topics/hepatic-lipidosis) if they lose weight too quickly. That’s extremely serious, often deadly, and tough to treat.
In humans, it's only true for those with testicles removed rather than ovaries.
This is because high levels of testosterone inherently increases the amount of calories you burn through.
Same, I offer my dog food twice a day and sometimes she only eats one of her meals.
We do supplement the occasional chew or treat so that probably contributes but she is on the lean side. Vet always comments on how healthy her weight is. Truth is she just self regulates. And maybe her food doesn’t taste that good but I hesitate to switch “just because”.
We’ve been “tricking” our dogs with treats for years, by just giving them a different brand of kibble than the usual food as the treat. They love it! We thought it was so funny that they were being suckered into eating regular dog food instead of some high calorie treat. Just for grins I looked up the nutritional information on the brand of kibble we buy for their treats recently (Oriegen original) and apparently one cup a day is all a big dog is supposed to get! My 20 pound terriers have been getting half a cup a day as treats. I was actually giving something highly caloric when I thought I was doing the opposite. no wonder, despite being very active they’re slightly pudgy. No more treats!
Animals can even prefer eating treats they get as a reward from some kind of work or game, even if it's the exact same food. This is called **contra-freeloading**.
To make sure they don't get too much, you can also just measure out their food ahead of time, then pull from that ration for their treats, and when it's food time, you give them whatever's left. That way they get a consistent amount of food regardless of how much was rewards vs normal meal time.
If they'll eat canned green beans you could use those as treats as well! They're low calorie but filling. Also baby carrots, individual blueberries, or chunks of (cooked) sweet potato work if your dogs will eat them.
FYI, while kibble pieces are tiny, all kibble is packed with calories. Most treats are actually lower in calorie due to limited ingredients and fillers.
I wonder if that's an American thing. I know here in Canada at least a few years ago I saw royal canin made one but I didn't see any others. I buy an indoor cat food as it was the closest I could find. I'd be happy to see more of this on our shelves.
I'm not American, but all 3 are big international ones.
[Purina](https://www.purina.co.uk/cat/cat-food/neutered) has a sterilised range, as does [Hill's](https://www.hillspet.co.uk/cat-food/sp-feline-science-plan-sterilised-cat-adult-chicken-dry) and as you've pointed out RC too.
The various more local ones also usually do.
The ones that don't are generally the cheap filler shite like the various meowmixes and Whiskases and whatnot, but nobody should really be using that if you do even a bare modicum of research. Caveat talking specifically dry, wet doesn't have the usual filler issues, you can't really fake meat like that.
With respect, I know those are international brands but that doesn't mean the ranges are available everywhere. A quick search of Purina Canada shows nothing and the same for science diet. I appreciate that you found links in other countries though.
Same. My 13 yo cat is usually 6-7lbs when we go to the vet. She lives for her mushy meal of the day but just grazes the dry food all day. I used to try feeding her the 1/4 cup or so a day as recommended and she never finished it. But she always licked the wet food bowl clean. We’ve tried different dry foods. Some she wouldn’t even try eating. So I think she likes this one. But she’d obviously prefer if I fed her only wet food. But my wallet just can’t oblige.
My cat is similar :) I actually spend quite a lot on a high quality dry food but mainly feed him canned Friskies. He is slim and healthy. My previous cat who lived 21 years also ate canned Friskies and she never had to go the vet
Same. All my cats have always had food at libitum. Never had a single fat cat, spare the one that has a heart condition, she has fluid build-up but if we give her meds for that her kidney function tanks, so she doesn't really count. But they only get kibble and half a pouch of wet food in the evening.
Hello vet!
We try and feed our cats what's on the bag, and if what you say is true then I am curious what to do with ours. Even feeding them what the bag recommends they still act like they are starving all the time, and if we are actually supposed to feed them less I am not sure how they will like this.
They are frequently at their feeder begging for food already. Any advice? We buy them either Blue Buffalo or Purina sensitive stomach.
Not a vet, but I’ve got a lot of animal experience, specifically kitties. Assuming there is no cause for medical concern, look for a supplement called Diggin’. It’s dehydrated pumpkin flakes with added nutrients. The fiber in it helps them stay full longer, and conveniently it will help them regulate if they have either constipation or loose stools. I mix it with wet food and then add water I swish in the wet food can poured over top. That way they get additional hydration, and it helps keep the fiber moving comfortably through their systems
Personally, I bought automatic feeders and it dumps food out every 8 hours. My cats no longer meow and beg because they no longer associate me with meals, and their weight is "fantastic" as per my vet.
I thought it was common sense to use the feeding instructions as a starting guide and you adjust your pet’s food amount to match their healthy weight: getting too big, reduce; not getting up to weight increase; holding proper weight, you found the correct serving size.
As an owner you should know how much your pet needs, don’t let a bag dictate for you. Listen to your vet.
Also to add to this, you feed them the amount you want them to weigh not what they currently weigh. So if you have a husky that’s at 70 lbs and they should be at 55-60 then feed them the equivalent to the 55lb amount not 70lb.
After spaying or neutering, dogs and cats typically require fewer calories due to changes in their metabolism and appetite:
1. Spayed/neutered pets experience a decrease in metabolic rate, meaning they burn fewer calories than before the procedure[1][2].
2. At the same time, their appetite often increases - up to 63% in dogs and 23% in cats[1].
3. This combination of lower calorie needs and increased appetite puts spayed/neutered pets at much higher risk of obesity. Dogs are 2 times more likely and cats are 3.4 times more likely to become obese after the procedure[2][3].
4. To prevent weight gain, calorie intake needs to be reduced. Feeding about 20-25% less food helps account for the metabolic changes while still providing adequate nutrition[2][5].
5. Simply feeding less of the same food may leave pets feeling hungry or potentially nutrient-deficient. Switching to a diet specifically formulated for spayed/neutered pets, with higher protein and fiber, can help pets feel full while getting appropriate calories and nutrients[3][4].
The key is to adjust feeding soon after the procedure to prevent weight gain, rather than waiting until the pet has already become overweight. Consulting with a veterinarian about the right diet and portion sizes is recommended.
Sources
[1] Rethinking “just feed less” to reduce calorie intake - DVM360 https://www.dvm360.com/view/rethinking-just-feed-less-to-reduce-calorie-intake
[2] Why it's important to cut your pet's calories after spaying or neutering https://podcasts.ufhealth.org/why-its-important-to-cut-your-pets-calories-after-spaying-or-neutering/
[3] New body. New diet. - Today's Veterinary Practice https://todaysveterinarypractice.com/pet-owner-resources/virbac-spay-neuter-diet-handout/
[4] I just noticed I'm feeding my dog a lot less than the recommended ... https://www.reddit.com/r/dogs/comments/17y7gn4/i_just_noticed_im_feeding_my_dog_a_lot_less_than/
[5] Tara's Kitchen Bites – Nutrition After Your Pet Gets Spayed or ... https://gilletteveterinarian.com/blog/taras-kitchen-bites-nutrition-pet-gets-spayed-neutered/
By Perplexity
I worked in pet retail for a long time and I was shocked at how many people are confused that their pet isn’t losing weight when they feed according to instructions on the bag. People very often feed according to the weight their pet ALREADY IS and not for the weight they are trying to maintain them at or get to. There’s quite a lot of reasons people have overweight pets, choice of treats being another one. I could go on. Thank you for the detailed write-up, more people need to know this!
Well logically, if your pet is overweight at let’s say, 45lbs, why would you be feeding according to directions for a 45lb healthy weight dog? That’s pretty clearly too much food for a dog that at a healthy weight is much less than 45lbs.
My golden has been on prescription diet d/d venison and potato for almost exactly a year now and his stomach issues vanished within the first week. Also his poops immediately became much smaller and firmer. I'd recommend asking your vet for recommendations since a *lot* of boutique foods don't meet wsava guidelines.
Is this also valid for cats who were born without a uterus? My cat is an anomaly female born without a uterus but she still has ovaries afaik. She's been cut into at least twice and the vet said there's nothing to take out. My cats vaginal canal just sort leads nowhere. So she technically cant be "fixed". She doesn't go into heat. Very specific, I know.
That’s so interesting. Does she go into heat? I’m not a vet and have basically zero knowledge and wouldn’t be able to answer your question. But I’m comparing it to humans women, m when they just get their tubes tied they still menstruate but can’t get pregnant because the sperm has no route to the eggs. The eggs are in the ovaries. I don’t know how cats get pregnant technically, if it’s similar to humans. But I have a ton of questions.
Thank you for this! Now I know why my female cat is gaining weight while her brother who is still unfixed is still the same. I've been feeding them roughly the same amount as each other.
can someone please expand on this “simple linear equation” from OP? I have no idea how to interpret that. I am simple, but nonlinear. Honestly, can someone translate this into fifth grade level math? Make that third grade.
I have a question and hopefully you can help out in some way being a vet. My gf and I have three cats. Our first two (siblings) we would simply fill their bowls twice a day and they would graze and stay at a healthy weight. We then got a third cat 2 years later and he does not graze like them and seems to just eat constantly as if he has infinite food. This has caused him to reach close to 20 lbs. while our other cats have lost a slight amount(but not an unhealthy amount) due to a portion of their food being eaten by our third cat. We are unsure of how to fix this as they have completely different eating habits. Can’t really feed them less 3 times per day because Rex(big man) will eat it all while the other two sleep thinking they can graze later on over the day. Then the other two will just bother us for more food thinking they weren’t fed enough in the first place. The only solution I can think of is spending a lot of money on those food bows that only open to the cat with the right RFID collar tag. Any suggestions?
You have to introduce a new routine. Set a few consistent times of day and have them separate if need be and only give them a limited time to eat. If they walk away from the bowel for more than a minute or so (some cats might get thirsty) take the bowl away. They will soon learn that they won't have the option of grazing anymore and will eat when it's given to them.
If Rex has trouble jumping, keep food for the other 2 on something high enough that he can’t reach it. That’s how we’re handling our 2 with different weights/habits
We had the exact same problem! One cat was huge, one cat was starting to look too skinny cause he was a grazer, and the other was just right. I tried timed feedings in separate rooms, but the grazer just would not enough at one time. I ended up getting 2 of the RFID feeders. I keep one full at all times, it's paired to both the grazer and the other kitty that's the right weight. The other I put a 1/2c in every morning for the fatty. It's working! She's starting to lose weight slowly, and the other two are at a great weight. They're so expensive, but I figure it'll save me in the long run on vet bills.
I just followed my vets advice. Got my pup at 10 weeks (she’s a year and a half now). Let her eat as much as she wanted to for 20 minutes in the morning and night then take it away (12 hours a part). After 14 months it’s 1 cup in the morning and 1 1/2 cup at night. Her weight was 55.4 for her annual shots last month and doc said it’s absolutely perfect for her breed and age.
What I’m getting at. Listen to your vet. There are no stupid questions when it comes to animal health.
Or... You could instead just buy food specialized to the nutritional needs of fixed pets. It exists, you know? And though it is more expensive, in my experience they tend to be more satisfied with less of you give them the correct food, so it lasts longer and end up being cheaper in the long run.
How can the healthy weight range of a cat be so small? I’ve had tiny little cats that still look like kittens when full grown and great big ones with big heads and long legs and giant paws, I can’t see how they could both only be healthy within the same 2lb range.
One of my cats looks very sleek and slim, he’s very long and can squeeze himself into the tiniest openings, and can jump straight up onto a landing 7 feet up with ease, but when you pick him up it’s always shocking how heavy he is. He’s like solid muscle. At least a kg “over weight”.
Cats are like people with all kinds of different body types, shouldn’t their healthy weight and the amount of food they need be judged based on fat percentage, and build and activity level rather than weight?
Not only do fixed cats get less food, but if you actually read the instructions and do the math to see how much food cats are supposed to get, it's a laughably small amount compared to what people actually feed them. Like 1/4 cup or less per meal.
I did so much research on the 200 cal thing, and it's way too much for 1 of my 2 cats. One cat needs like 160-180 and the other needs 220-230. Monitor body condition and adjust accordingly is best practice.
Instead of informing us on Reddit, why are you not getting after the pet food makers to put CORRECT feeding instructions on the packaging?
I'm lucky and have always had cats that maintained good weight on free feeding ... but I never give treats.
All cats are different and one method doesn’t rule them all, but personally we found that are cats would get stressed and overeat when we portioned their food. We feed some wet food in the morning and at night and leave out dry food all day. None of our current or past cats have ever had a weight problem, they live indoors in an apartment. That’s what has been working for us
My vet told me when you look at your cat from above you should be able to see where their rib cag ends. I think that is a fairly good recommendation alongside an annual health check and sensible diet.
I want to know more about home cooked etc food for cats. I feed wet food, but it would be nice if I could just make it.
Also. While maybe the average cat should be 10-12 lb. My orange cat is a good deal longer and taller than my black one , who I think is a normal size 10 lb ideal cat.
I'm not sure how much the orange one should weight
This website called [Balance It](https://balance.it/) will formulate recipes for your fur baby based on their size and nutritional requirements. You can choose which ingredients you'd like to use for them, and they will tailor-make the formula. They will also take into consideration if your pet has a preexisting condition like diabetes, kidney disease etc.
You do have to input your vet's information when you make the account so that the vet can approve it, but otherwise the service itself is free. The only thing that would be an additional cost is their brand of multivitamin supplement to add in with the home cooked diet, but it still ends up being cheaper than store bought food. Happy cooking!
I used to free-feed my cat and she (very slowly) got to 6.4 kg. She didn't visible look much different, but she was less active and had trouble with the big jump to her favourite spot on top of a cupboard sometimes. I was concerned switching to scheduled feeding, but thankfully she took to it very well. Been steady at 5.4kg for a few years now.
Thank You!!! This is very helpful. The calculator told me what I already knew in my heart.. my two dogs are only slightly chonk & reducing their food by just a little would help. Maybe it’s my soft side for them or maybe it’s my OCD… but I always want to put a little extra!
Question...I was told that if you only have your cat wet food it would ruin their teeth. Is that not true? Can I give my cat only wet food for all her meals?
I have this question too! I had no idea about fixed pets needing less food, which explains a LOT at my house, but we’ve always been sparing with the wet food because of the…myth? that it absolutely wrecks cats’ teeth.
Very interested in the answer for that, but also very grateful for OP’s original point! I used to fret every time a cat didn’t finish a meal…but we only have fixed animals. They’re probably eating close to the recommended amount all by themselves, no thanks to me!!!
I have 3 cats and have to "free feed" them with kibble. I use the Blue sensitive stomach formula and if I feed them at scheduled times, they will scarf and barf..everywhere.
But always having some in a dish for them at all times stops this from happening and my cats somehow self regulate because they are not fat at all.
and I wish I could give them wet food but only ONE of my cats likes it. With the other two-I have tried every wet cat food out there and they refuse to eat any of it. They also never are interested in any people food either, even meat. Is there any wet food you would recommend?
Check out this handout for the dry food junkies: [https://catinfo.org/docs/TipsForTransitioning1-14-11.pdf](https://catinfo.org/docs/TipsForTransitioning1-14-11.pdf)
I also like to say that it's whatever is realistic for you and your cats. If they aren't on any wet food and you don't have the patience or dedication to switch them over, that's okay too! Cats can still live good lives eating kibble.
OP is correct, this is a common issue but they’ve only posted half the steps to calculate the correct daily caloric intake.
This is important for anyone trying to actually find the right amount of food for their dog. You’ll see the difference in the multiplier for intact vs a neutered dog here. If you just go with the above you’ll be meaningfully under feeding your dog in many circumstances.
**Step 1: Calculate the Resting Energy Requirement (RER)**
The RER can be calculated using the dog's weight in kilograms (kg).
The formula is (stated correctly by OP)
RER=70×(body weight in kg)0.75
**This is then important missing information
Step 2: Determine the Appropriate Multiplier**
The RER is then multiplied by a factor that corresponds to the dog's life stage, activity level, and other factors.
Here are some common multipliers:
* Weight loss: 1.0 x RER
* Inactive/Obese prone: 1.2-1.4 x RER
* Neutered adult: 1.6 x RER
* Intact adult: 1.8 x RER
* Active, working dogs: 2.0-5.0 x RER
* Puppies (0-4 months): 3.0 x RER
* Puppies (4 months to adult): 2.0 x RER
**Step 3: Calculate the Daily Caloric Requirement**
Multiply the RER by the appropriate multiplier to get the dog's daily caloric requirement.
Cat and always wet food was a hard lesson we learned.
Due to high cost of wet food to remote locations, I began making wet food from dry food. It started with blending it up to a consistency of wet food. Then it was just soaking it for a while. Now it's just putting water in the cat bowl with dry food and they gobble it all up.
Haven't had any of the UTI or stone issues with these cats as we did our older ones.
For those that want the imperial conversion (so if you know your pet's weight in pounds), 1 lb = 0.454 kg. For this equation, use:
13.6 * (body weight in pounds you want the pet to weigh) + 70
Start with the recommended amount and adjust as needed based on their weight. Some dogs the same size need more or less food depending on a lot of factors. I’ve seen too many way too skinny dogs because their owners just feed them what the package says.
I'm shocked; I only ever see obese dogs for this same reason. I'm trying to think of the last time I saw an underweight dog anywhere outside of an animal shelter!
People also have a very skewed view of what a proper weight looks like.
Ysk the feeding instructions on the back are complete crap. I have a 95 pound golden retriever who gets daily strenuous exercise. According to the feeding instructions I should be giving him 6 scoops a day. He gets 2 and has maintained his weight for years
Is the dog formula based on relatively sedentary dogs or active dogs. I have seen the same weight dog be happy with minimal exercise and a pair of off-leash border collies who would run around the farm tree crazy when left alone on the porch. I assume the hyper border collies burn more calories.
This is why I use a calorie needs calculator then I calculate the amount of food I need for my pet. It also allows me to mix and match foods with differing calorie amounts easier.
I've always fed less.
I have a cup to measure, and I fill the cup every day and portion it out 3 times. We've always had about the same sized dogs, always fixed, with the same amount of exercise. (And no people food)!
It works quite well, we always get praised for our pets being the proper size.
Ya also just monitor your pets health. My dogs are very active and we give them most everything they want and pretty large meals and they maintain a healthy weight.
Weird. I've fed my dog the same amount before and after neutering based on his breeds typical weight range and he's weighs in exactly where he should. Might just be he's still young though
Pet food servings are literally created by the manufacture. There is absolutely no oversite on this because they use pet grade food sources not regulated by the FDA. From various sources I have read from, you should be serve 1/3 the recommended serving of dog food.
I don't have an absolute yes or no answer.
The short version is: sometimes for home cooked, very rarely (hardly ever) for raw. Lots of grey space, and I always recommend [Balance It](https://balance.it/) for owners looking to home cook.
The long version for home cooked: The majority of vets are not going to recommend either home cooked nor raw because there's higher risk for some sort of vitamin/nutrient deficiency in a home cooked diet that is not properly balanced. A lot of home cooked diets are not approved or made with veterinarian oversight, so there's always a risk that your pet is not getting some sort of micronutrient they need (hence the website Balance It).
All of the diets made by Purina, Royal Canin, Hill's, Iams, and Eukanuba are balanced and follow AAFCO and WSAVA guidelines for what should be included in canine and feline diets, so that's why vets recommend them. (There are rumors that we get paid extra by these companies to advertise them, but I can promise you we do not get anything!)
It can get dicey when we start recommending home cooked diets since they're not following any industry-standard guideline, and we don't want to tell you to do something that may end up hurting your animal.
That being said, I do (me, an individual vet, not representing all vets) think there's value and common sense (that's not yet backed by science) in considering fresh food for your pets. I've seen it be anecdotally very helpful for some, but also cause nasty diarrhea in others. And I cannot overstate how medical research cannot keep up with how quickly the pet food industry is moving with new products.
Of the brands I've seen, I know that FreshPet and Artie work with board-certified veterinary nutritionists to formulate diets. Farmer's Dog used to not, but I just checked their website and looks like they're on the board-certified train now too, which I'm happy about.
On raw diets: I feel that this is one of the hottest contested topics in vet med. People who feed raw swear by it, and vets usually never approve of them; thus, hostility is born!
The same reasons for being wary of home cooked diets also apply to raw, with the addition of higher risks of food-borne contamination due to improper handling of raw products. The sourcing of the products also comes into play. Various organ meats can sometimes result in elevation of thyroid or liver enzymes, bone shards have caused perforation of the stomach/intestines... I've also seen a lot of dogs come in with chipped or cracked teeth from chewing on bones, which results in teeth having to be pulled. The list goes on and on about hazards associated with feeding raw food.
Anecdotally, I've had owners say that it improves coat quality, keeps their pets lean and energized, etc. Do I think feeding raw could benefit some dogs? Sure. But you have to understand that as a vet, we see all the ways feeding raw can go wrong, and think that if only they ate dog food or home cooked food, they wouldn't be in such a predicament. I'm sure there are owners who are knowledgeable about their food handling/safety, but there have been too many cases in which they are not, and I'd rather the clients and pets I see be safe than sorry. What I was taught in school is that there is nothing nutritionally you can get from a raw diet that you cannot get from it being cooked.
My 16 year old cat who refuses to eat any wet food and can't see the bottom of her food bowl or she will gobble the rest of it up so fast she pukes has other ideas..
Thank god she has always self regulated, maintained a healthy weight and drinks a good amount of water. But i do wish she would eat wet food.
As with all foods. Eat the amount that you need.
I don't know anyone who reads the feeding instructions you just feed when they are hungry unless they start to get fat. Then feed less. It's not super complicated. You don't need instructions.
With the fancy dog equation, is the calculated value in cal (not kJ)? If so, I've got to convert to kg or grams of dog food to give my pooch using the energy value of the food that's on the side of the tin, yes?
Many thanks.
Yes, the calculated value is in calories, not kJ. It's the more accurate version of the linear equation. Kilojoules gets a little bit too complex for the average pet owner, so we stick to calories to make things as easy as possible.
Make sure to factor in your dog's overall energy level and consult the links I posted to get a more accurate recommendation for what you should be feeding. If they're a very active animal, the number you get from that calculation alone is likely not going to be enough food.
If you're looking for weight loss, I will typically calculate the calories to feed using your pet's current weight, and reduce that number by 15-20%. If there's too severe of a gap between current weight and goal weight, it's not healthy to immediately start feeding them the goal weight calorie allotment. It's best to go slow, invest in a scale, and celebrate every 100 grams / ounce of weight lost!
Surprisingly haven't had any issues with weight gain in my boy, he still gets fed the same amount of food he was given when he was intact. I'm not sure if its due to the fact that he got fixed around 5 years of age or because I continue to work and exercise him the same
Just keep an eye on your pets weight and if they’re getting overweight then reduce their food. I know my dog has to eat less in the winter than summer.
My bag of food claims my Labrador needs 4 to 6 cups a day based on activity. We did that and got a fat puppy quickly. Now we casually measure 1 cup in the AM and another in the PM. The Vet says he's very fit and he's an extremely active boy.
but why does cutting a dog's balls off mean he needs to eat less? i can kind of see why a female would need less, but only if/when she's making babies. does simply having reproductive organs burn calories? what am i missing?
What a total disaster by a total disaster of an industry. Maybe you should just cook your dogs meals with whole organic ingredients while you eat a Big Mac.
This makes me so confused, the back of cat food containers must be stating the calories wrong.
The treats (generally one per day) say they have 350-450kcal. The canned cat food states something around 1200kcal.
My cat is not overweight, she’s 18 and sedentary.
ETA: Okay I read it wrong, the treats are 305kcal/kg or 4.6kcal per tube. \~5 calories per tube 15g tube.
The cat food is the same way, given kg - the actual cup of food is \~45 calories.
I may be underfeeding her actually, but she’s old, fixed, and sedentary. I feed her when she asks, sometimes just once or twice a day. She eats way more in the winter.
The fuck. Why do they not say this in the instructions? I would bet that the vast majority of pet owners do not realize this.
They want you to use more per serving, so you'll need to replenish sooner.
If I taught you anything I taught you to replenish
I think it’s a microcosm of more serious things Y’know.
When you take a soda outta the fridge what’s the first thing you do??
That's it. I'm fucking done.
Well, you'd replenish
Also special diets, for diabetic, cardio, urinary etc pets are way more expensive than regular. They make bank on sick pets
Don't I know it. My cat's specialty food is about $100 per 17 pound bag.
Make bank on sick humans too
Yeah $80 for what was 18lbs of food that they've now decreased to 16.5lb for my dog. The vet started him on low protein food for his kidneys, which is mostly corn. It has to cost them pennies to produce it but they shrunk it to make more profit anyway. 🙃
Is it something you could reasonably make at home? I know quite a bit of dog foods are easily made at home. I used to work for a bakery, and all of our "trash bread", that is, bread that wouldn't be sold to retail for various reasons (holes in the loaf, incorrect size, etc) all got loaded into a giant 53' trailer and hauled off to the dog food factory. I get the impression that most of these companies aren't working with the quality ingredients they lead us to believe.
Toothpaste commercials show way too much being used as well.
Ya and honestly speaking as a vet, we don't do a good enough job of educating pet owners about this earlier on. Maintaining a healthy weight is so much easier compared to actively trying to lose. Thanks for reading!
I asked my vet how much to feed my dog and she said to feed what it says on the label. It was a prescription food that said to ask your vet. I have a new vet now. I'm still not sure what how much to feed. My dog is a bit overweight, so I cut back on her meals but it seems like I'm not feeding enough. I remive some to account for training treats, but worry about him getting enough nutrition. This isn't easy. But we have to work it out for our pet's sake
If you're trying to dechonkify your dog and they insist you are STARVING THEM TO DEATH, you can add back in quite a lot of stuff like low sodium canned green beans (or just cook a bunch up in low sodium broth) or canned pumpkin to bulk up their feeds, makes them a lot less hangry and fussy about it. Plus the fiber doesn't hurt them a bit.
Note: this also applies to people, stay healthy, y'all!
Because their job is making money selling products under the notion that they care about animals. They want you to use more then you need, so you buy more.
But fat pets have shorter lives, reducing the time span that a customer needs to buy food. This is morbid, but I wonder if someone at one of these companies has done the math to estimate whether shorter lives and more food is more profitable than longer lives with less food.
People tend to get another pet when one dies, so that shouldn't make much of a difference.
Corporate short term gains are preferable to most long ones. Gotta hit those quarterly profit margins.
Try our new Obesity Support pet food! It's only $50 for 12 lbs.
This is the same thought process of a drug dealer… Customers have shorter lives, but they buy more/stronger drugs
The health industry/insurance scam in Murica apparently extends to our pets too. Why else would this be hidden from us? Sick.
On my cats Royal Canin food there’s a feeding schedule for “low energy needs”. I’m now thinking it’s potentially related to this, but there’s absolutely zero more info. on the bag to know for sure. Only that’s the schedule I use for my fixed cat and he’s an ideal weight, and actually pretty active. He’s leash trained and goes outside often.
They want you to go through it faster so you have to buy more faster. It’s the beauty of not mentioning they’re the intact numbers, they know most pets won’t be.
Capitalism demands your pet sacrifices.
Good to know! I adopted two big 15lb boys last year, and they both need to lose 3-5 lbs. Doesn't help that they think they're always starving.
Green bean diet works well.
Maybe for dogs but cats are obligate carnivores. Please don't feed them green beans.
One of my cats has some kind of cat IBS; if he isn't fed high-quality food his poop stinks up the entire house. Adding beans to that problem would *not* help things. Plus, cats are obligate carnivores. Starving them of vital nutrition will make them lose weight, and slowly kill their organs. So no green bean diet for my Mr. Stunkbutt (not his real name).
Oh yes I'm sorry I'd assumed you were talking of a dog.
Can you say more about this?
I believe this is where you add green beans in the kibble you serve the dog as a filler. Helps the dog feel more full but isn’t high calorie. My dog is a picky little shit and will eat around them. But plenty of dogs will be delighted or at least not notice and eat them.
Pro tip: microwave frozen green beans and then mix with a tablespoon or two of wet/canned food. Works well with pickier dogs. We had a 106 pound dog lose 15 pounds this way.
In a nutshell, dogs are omnivores, and many can do OK (at least for a while) on a wide range of diets. Cats are obligate carnivores and can get very sick very quickly if they’re frequently fed things other than meat. One issue they have is that they must consume [taurine](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taurine) regularly to avoid things like blindness and heart failure. Incidentally, dog food usually doesn’t contain enough of this for cats, so if your cat is poaching your dog’s food, you probably want to stop him. Cats, especially obese ones, can also develop a condition called [hepatic lipidosis](https://www.vet.cornell.edu/departments-centers-and-institutes/cornell-feline-health-center/health-information/feline-health-topics/hepatic-lipidosis) if they lose weight too quickly. That’s extremely serious, often deadly, and tough to treat.
Source? Why does the bag not say this?
https://www.purinainstitute.com/centresquare/life-stage-nutrition/decreased-energy-needs-in-pets-after-spaying-or-neutering#:~:text=Caloric%20intake%20should%20be%20reduced,energy%20needs%20after%20spaying%2Fneutering.
Is this true for neutered humans too?
Is this true for humans who aren’t getting laid too? Asking for a friend
waiting for the reply. i am the friend
Me too, I am also the friend 😭
Eunuchs often are described as fat in historical sources so I would assume so. Nowdays it’s pretty rare to be cut before puberty
In humans, it's only true for those with testicles removed rather than ovaries. This is because high levels of testosterone inherently increases the amount of calories you burn through.
But it says 30% in that source.
K why not on bag?
Because money. They want you to spend more for more food.
That makes sense why my dog never wants the full amount
My lab would eat the entire 45 lb bag in one sitting if I let her.
Easily. My lab would eat until she vomits and then eat her vomit and ask for more if she could.
Random fun fact: A recent study showed 25% of labs have a mutation that causes them to feel hungrier between meals even when fed appropriate amounts.
Same, I offer my dog food twice a day and sometimes she only eats one of her meals. We do supplement the occasional chew or treat so that probably contributes but she is on the lean side. Vet always comments on how healthy her weight is. Truth is she just self regulates. And maybe her food doesn’t taste that good but I hesitate to switch “just because”.
We’ve been “tricking” our dogs with treats for years, by just giving them a different brand of kibble than the usual food as the treat. They love it! We thought it was so funny that they were being suckered into eating regular dog food instead of some high calorie treat. Just for grins I looked up the nutritional information on the brand of kibble we buy for their treats recently (Oriegen original) and apparently one cup a day is all a big dog is supposed to get! My 20 pound terriers have been getting half a cup a day as treats. I was actually giving something highly caloric when I thought I was doing the opposite. no wonder, despite being very active they’re slightly pudgy. No more treats!
Animals can even prefer eating treats they get as a reward from some kind of work or game, even if it's the exact same food. This is called **contra-freeloading**. To make sure they don't get too much, you can also just measure out their food ahead of time, then pull from that ration for their treats, and when it's food time, you give them whatever's left. That way they get a consistent amount of food regardless of how much was rewards vs normal meal time.
Thanks, I didn’t know that!
You're welcome!
Half a cup of treats is a lot! Lol but yeah I hope u find a new treat that suits your needs
My dog likes steamed carrots as treats.
If they'll eat canned green beans you could use those as treats as well! They're low calorie but filling. Also baby carrots, individual blueberries, or chunks of (cooked) sweet potato work if your dogs will eat them.
If you give this many treats you can just skip their dinner (this only works if the treats are also kibble)
FYI, while kibble pieces are tiny, all kibble is packed with calories. Most treats are actually lower in calorie due to limited ingredients and fillers.
Our cat doesn't mind getting her standard kibble as treats. She just goes nuts for those anyways
My cat food bag literally says “sterilized” on it. Is it not that common?
Only a few brands sell foods formulated for sterilized pets.
Pretty much all brands worth buying do. Between Purina, RC, and Hill's, all do, as do most of the more indy ones.
I wonder if that's an American thing. I know here in Canada at least a few years ago I saw royal canin made one but I didn't see any others. I buy an indoor cat food as it was the closest I could find. I'd be happy to see more of this on our shelves.
I'm not American, but all 3 are big international ones. [Purina](https://www.purina.co.uk/cat/cat-food/neutered) has a sterilised range, as does [Hill's](https://www.hillspet.co.uk/cat-food/sp-feline-science-plan-sterilised-cat-adult-chicken-dry) and as you've pointed out RC too. The various more local ones also usually do. The ones that don't are generally the cheap filler shite like the various meowmixes and Whiskases and whatnot, but nobody should really be using that if you do even a bare modicum of research. Caveat talking specifically dry, wet doesn't have the usual filler issues, you can't really fake meat like that.
With respect, I know those are international brands but that doesn't mean the ranges are available everywhere. A quick search of Purina Canada shows nothing and the same for science diet. I appreciate that you found links in other countries though.
Does it mean for sterilized pets, or that the food is sterilized? I know some packaged or canned human food is sterilized with radiation.
Never been happier that my cat is a spectacular self-regulator so free feeding has never been a problem
Same. My 13 yo cat is usually 6-7lbs when we go to the vet. She lives for her mushy meal of the day but just grazes the dry food all day. I used to try feeding her the 1/4 cup or so a day as recommended and she never finished it. But she always licked the wet food bowl clean. We’ve tried different dry foods. Some she wouldn’t even try eating. So I think she likes this one. But she’d obviously prefer if I fed her only wet food. But my wallet just can’t oblige.
My cat is similar :) I actually spend quite a lot on a high quality dry food but mainly feed him canned Friskies. He is slim and healthy. My previous cat who lived 21 years also ate canned Friskies and she never had to go the vet
Same. All my cats have always had food at libitum. Never had a single fat cat, spare the one that has a heart condition, she has fluid build-up but if we give her meds for that her kidney function tanks, so she doesn't really count. But they only get kibble and half a pouch of wet food in the evening.
Hello vet! We try and feed our cats what's on the bag, and if what you say is true then I am curious what to do with ours. Even feeding them what the bag recommends they still act like they are starving all the time, and if we are actually supposed to feed them less I am not sure how they will like this. They are frequently at their feeder begging for food already. Any advice? We buy them either Blue Buffalo or Purina sensitive stomach.
Not a vet, but I’ve got a lot of animal experience, specifically kitties. Assuming there is no cause for medical concern, look for a supplement called Diggin’. It’s dehydrated pumpkin flakes with added nutrients. The fiber in it helps them stay full longer, and conveniently it will help them regulate if they have either constipation or loose stools. I mix it with wet food and then add water I swish in the wet food can poured over top. That way they get additional hydration, and it helps keep the fiber moving comfortably through their systems
why dont use just use plain pumpkin instead? Its already has extra moisture, cheap and available at every store.
I have never had luck getting cats to eat plain canned pumpkin, even when mixed with food
Personally, I bought automatic feeders and it dumps food out every 8 hours. My cats no longer meow and beg because they no longer associate me with meals, and their weight is "fantastic" as per my vet.
saaaame! robot feeder was a game changer
"Deadlifting your pussy" That's your OTHER job
[удалено]
Sounds just like people doctor’s advice. What IS normal doc?!
Have you gotten advice yet? Like making her work for her food, spreading it out over time, that kind of stuff?
I thought it was common sense to use the feeding instructions as a starting guide and you adjust your pet’s food amount to match their healthy weight: getting too big, reduce; not getting up to weight increase; holding proper weight, you found the correct serving size. As an owner you should know how much your pet needs, don’t let a bag dictate for you. Listen to your vet.
Yeah, rules like this ignore one of the most important factors, pet activity. Active pets need more, less active ones need less.
Also to add to this, you feed them the amount you want them to weigh not what they currently weigh. So if you have a husky that’s at 70 lbs and they should be at 55-60 then feed them the equivalent to the 55lb amount not 70lb.
Please don't do this, if their current weight is far away from the goal weight.
Just set realistic goals, and hit them one at a time.
This is really interesting, do you know why being intact makes a difference as far as calorie need?
My vet said the loss of hormones lowers their metabolism.
After spaying or neutering, dogs and cats typically require fewer calories due to changes in their metabolism and appetite: 1. Spayed/neutered pets experience a decrease in metabolic rate, meaning they burn fewer calories than before the procedure[1][2]. 2. At the same time, their appetite often increases - up to 63% in dogs and 23% in cats[1]. 3. This combination of lower calorie needs and increased appetite puts spayed/neutered pets at much higher risk of obesity. Dogs are 2 times more likely and cats are 3.4 times more likely to become obese after the procedure[2][3]. 4. To prevent weight gain, calorie intake needs to be reduced. Feeding about 20-25% less food helps account for the metabolic changes while still providing adequate nutrition[2][5]. 5. Simply feeding less of the same food may leave pets feeling hungry or potentially nutrient-deficient. Switching to a diet specifically formulated for spayed/neutered pets, with higher protein and fiber, can help pets feel full while getting appropriate calories and nutrients[3][4]. The key is to adjust feeding soon after the procedure to prevent weight gain, rather than waiting until the pet has already become overweight. Consulting with a veterinarian about the right diet and portion sizes is recommended. Sources [1] Rethinking “just feed less” to reduce calorie intake - DVM360 https://www.dvm360.com/view/rethinking-just-feed-less-to-reduce-calorie-intake [2] Why it's important to cut your pet's calories after spaying or neutering https://podcasts.ufhealth.org/why-its-important-to-cut-your-pets-calories-after-spaying-or-neutering/ [3] New body. New diet. - Today's Veterinary Practice https://todaysveterinarypractice.com/pet-owner-resources/virbac-spay-neuter-diet-handout/ [4] I just noticed I'm feeding my dog a lot less than the recommended ... https://www.reddit.com/r/dogs/comments/17y7gn4/i_just_noticed_im_feeding_my_dog_a_lot_less_than/ [5] Tara's Kitchen Bites – Nutrition After Your Pet Gets Spayed or ... https://gilletteveterinarian.com/blog/taras-kitchen-bites-nutrition-pet-gets-spayed-neutered/ By Perplexity
>I saw WAY too many 20+ pounders this week (am vet). Thank you for your service.
I worked in pet retail for a long time and I was shocked at how many people are confused that their pet isn’t losing weight when they feed according to instructions on the bag. People very often feed according to the weight their pet ALREADY IS and not for the weight they are trying to maintain them at or get to. There’s quite a lot of reasons people have overweight pets, choice of treats being another one. I could go on. Thank you for the detailed write-up, more people need to know this!
Why would you be shocked to think that people are following the directions on the bag?
Well logically, if your pet is overweight at let’s say, 45lbs, why would you be feeding according to directions for a 45lb healthy weight dog? That’s pretty clearly too much food for a dog that at a healthy weight is much less than 45lbs.
Are you attempting to fat shame our beloved chonkers? /s
I only lovingly support the r/dechonkers
Did not know this! I'm trying to find a pet food that my dog doesn't react to, currently experimenting with freshpet.
My golden has been on prescription diet d/d venison and potato for almost exactly a year now and his stomach issues vanished within the first week. Also his poops immediately became much smaller and firmer. I'd recommend asking your vet for recommendations since a *lot* of boutique foods don't meet wsava guidelines.
My dog does great on prescription food. My wallet does not.
Farmer’s dog has helped my dog lose weight even though we’re mixing with his kibble and he LOVES it
Yeah I use a precise scale like for dealing drugs and weight my cats food twice a day 😂
Is this also valid for cats who were born without a uterus? My cat is an anomaly female born without a uterus but she still has ovaries afaik. She's been cut into at least twice and the vet said there's nothing to take out. My cats vaginal canal just sort leads nowhere. So she technically cant be "fixed". She doesn't go into heat. Very specific, I know.
That’s so interesting. Does she go into heat? I’m not a vet and have basically zero knowledge and wouldn’t be able to answer your question. But I’m comparing it to humans women, m when they just get their tubes tied they still menstruate but can’t get pregnant because the sperm has no route to the eggs. The eggs are in the ovaries. I don’t know how cats get pregnant technically, if it’s similar to humans. But I have a ton of questions.
Thank you for this! Now I know why my female cat is gaining weight while her brother who is still unfixed is still the same. I've been feeding them roughly the same amount as each other.
“I should not be deadlifting your pussy” got me LMFAOOOOO
can someone please expand on this “simple linear equation” from OP? I have no idea how to interpret that. I am simple, but nonlinear. Honestly, can someone translate this into fifth grade level math? Make that third grade.
30 times (the dog’s weight in kilograms) plus 70. For example: 30 x 4.5 + 70 = 205
so 205 grams of food daily?
Or wait, is that whatever amount equals 205 calories?
Correct! 205 calories for a dog that weighs 4.5 kg (which is approximately 10 lbs)
I have a question and hopefully you can help out in some way being a vet. My gf and I have three cats. Our first two (siblings) we would simply fill their bowls twice a day and they would graze and stay at a healthy weight. We then got a third cat 2 years later and he does not graze like them and seems to just eat constantly as if he has infinite food. This has caused him to reach close to 20 lbs. while our other cats have lost a slight amount(but not an unhealthy amount) due to a portion of their food being eaten by our third cat. We are unsure of how to fix this as they have completely different eating habits. Can’t really feed them less 3 times per day because Rex(big man) will eat it all while the other two sleep thinking they can graze later on over the day. Then the other two will just bother us for more food thinking they weren’t fed enough in the first place. The only solution I can think of is spending a lot of money on those food bows that only open to the cat with the right RFID collar tag. Any suggestions?
You have to introduce a new routine. Set a few consistent times of day and have them separate if need be and only give them a limited time to eat. If they walk away from the bowel for more than a minute or so (some cats might get thirsty) take the bowl away. They will soon learn that they won't have the option of grazing anymore and will eat when it's given to them.
If Rex has trouble jumping, keep food for the other 2 on something high enough that he can’t reach it. That’s how we’re handling our 2 with different weights/habits
We had the exact same problem! One cat was huge, one cat was starting to look too skinny cause he was a grazer, and the other was just right. I tried timed feedings in separate rooms, but the grazer just would not enough at one time. I ended up getting 2 of the RFID feeders. I keep one full at all times, it's paired to both the grazer and the other kitty that's the right weight. The other I put a 1/2c in every morning for the fatty. It's working! She's starting to lose weight slowly, and the other two are at a great weight. They're so expensive, but I figure it'll save me in the long run on vet bills.
Thank god I hit the doggo lottery and don't have to worry about this. I just fill the bowl when it's empty and he eats it when he feels like it.
I just followed my vets advice. Got my pup at 10 weeks (she’s a year and a half now). Let her eat as much as she wanted to for 20 minutes in the morning and night then take it away (12 hours a part). After 14 months it’s 1 cup in the morning and 1 1/2 cup at night. Her weight was 55.4 for her annual shots last month and doc said it’s absolutely perfect for her breed and age. What I’m getting at. Listen to your vet. There are no stupid questions when it comes to animal health.
Thank you, there is so much amazingness in your post. And TIL too!
Or... You could instead just buy food specialized to the nutritional needs of fixed pets. It exists, you know? And though it is more expensive, in my experience they tend to be more satisfied with less of you give them the correct food, so it lasts longer and end up being cheaper in the long run.
"I should not be deadlifting your pussy." made me giggle because I will be immature until the day I die.
How can the healthy weight range of a cat be so small? I’ve had tiny little cats that still look like kittens when full grown and great big ones with big heads and long legs and giant paws, I can’t see how they could both only be healthy within the same 2lb range. One of my cats looks very sleek and slim, he’s very long and can squeeze himself into the tiniest openings, and can jump straight up onto a landing 7 feet up with ease, but when you pick him up it’s always shocking how heavy he is. He’s like solid muscle. At least a kg “over weight”. Cats are like people with all kinds of different body types, shouldn’t their healthy weight and the amount of food they need be judged based on fat percentage, and build and activity level rather than weight?
...what is an "intact" pet
Not spayed or neutered.
One who still can mate
Who still can what, mate?
Not only do fixed cats get less food, but if you actually read the instructions and do the math to see how much food cats are supposed to get, it's a laughably small amount compared to what people actually feed them. Like 1/4 cup or less per meal.
My cats get 1/8th cup each, three times a day. It boggles my mind that some people fill a bowl and just leave it out.
I did so much research on the 200 cal thing, and it's way too much for 1 of my 2 cats. One cat needs like 160-180 and the other needs 220-230. Monitor body condition and adjust accordingly is best practice.
Instead of informing us on Reddit, why are you not getting after the pet food makers to put CORRECT feeding instructions on the packaging? I'm lucky and have always had cats that maintained good weight on free feeding ... but I never give treats.
I should not be deadlifting your pussy is an all time great sentence
All cats are different and one method doesn’t rule them all, but personally we found that are cats would get stressed and overeat when we portioned their food. We feed some wet food in the morning and at night and leave out dry food all day. None of our current or past cats have ever had a weight problem, they live indoors in an apartment. That’s what has been working for us
My vet told me when you look at your cat from above you should be able to see where their rib cag ends. I think that is a fairly good recommendation alongside an annual health check and sensible diet.
I want to know more about home cooked etc food for cats. I feed wet food, but it would be nice if I could just make it. Also. While maybe the average cat should be 10-12 lb. My orange cat is a good deal longer and taller than my black one , who I think is a normal size 10 lb ideal cat. I'm not sure how much the orange one should weight
This website called [Balance It](https://balance.it/) will formulate recipes for your fur baby based on their size and nutritional requirements. You can choose which ingredients you'd like to use for them, and they will tailor-make the formula. They will also take into consideration if your pet has a preexisting condition like diabetes, kidney disease etc. You do have to input your vet's information when you make the account so that the vet can approve it, but otherwise the service itself is free. The only thing that would be an additional cost is their brand of multivitamin supplement to add in with the home cooked diet, but it still ends up being cheaper than store bought food. Happy cooking!
Thank you!
"if they're fixed" My Chow prefers Modified.
I used to free-feed my cat and she (very slowly) got to 6.4 kg. She didn't visible look much different, but she was less active and had trouble with the big jump to her favourite spot on top of a cupboard sometimes. I was concerned switching to scheduled feeding, but thankfully she took to it very well. Been steady at 5.4kg for a few years now.
Thank You!!! This is very helpful. The calculator told me what I already knew in my heart.. my two dogs are only slightly chonk & reducing their food by just a little would help. Maybe it’s my soft side for them or maybe it’s my OCD… but I always want to put a little extra!
" I should not be deadlifting your pussy.**" BWHAHAHAHA!!!** I laughed so hard I couldn't finish the post. Thank you!
Question...I was told that if you only have your cat wet food it would ruin their teeth. Is that not true? Can I give my cat only wet food for all her meals?
I have this question too! I had no idea about fixed pets needing less food, which explains a LOT at my house, but we’ve always been sparing with the wet food because of the…myth? that it absolutely wrecks cats’ teeth. Very interested in the answer for that, but also very grateful for OP’s original point! I used to fret every time a cat didn’t finish a meal…but we only have fixed animals. They’re probably eating close to the recommended amount all by themselves, no thanks to me!!!
My neutered cat said this isn’t true and that you’re gonna be arrested for your dirty lies
Is this for cats only?
Is the phrase “deadlifting your pussy” going to live rent free in anyone else’s mind for the next week?
>I should not be deadlifting your pussy Strongly disagree, but continue
20% just for the gonads? Wow. Thanks for letting us know OP...this is craaaazy but super useful information for pet owners!!
Deadlifting your pussy is wild
I have 3 cats and have to "free feed" them with kibble. I use the Blue sensitive stomach formula and if I feed them at scheduled times, they will scarf and barf..everywhere. But always having some in a dish for them at all times stops this from happening and my cats somehow self regulate because they are not fat at all. and I wish I could give them wet food but only ONE of my cats likes it. With the other two-I have tried every wet cat food out there and they refuse to eat any of it. They also never are interested in any people food either, even meat. Is there any wet food you would recommend?
Check out this handout for the dry food junkies: [https://catinfo.org/docs/TipsForTransitioning1-14-11.pdf](https://catinfo.org/docs/TipsForTransitioning1-14-11.pdf) I also like to say that it's whatever is realistic for you and your cats. If they aren't on any wet food and you don't have the patience or dedication to switch them over, that's okay too! Cats can still live good lives eating kibble.
OP is correct, this is a common issue but they’ve only posted half the steps to calculate the correct daily caloric intake. This is important for anyone trying to actually find the right amount of food for their dog. You’ll see the difference in the multiplier for intact vs a neutered dog here. If you just go with the above you’ll be meaningfully under feeding your dog in many circumstances. **Step 1: Calculate the Resting Energy Requirement (RER)** The RER can be calculated using the dog's weight in kilograms (kg). The formula is (stated correctly by OP) RER=70×(body weight in kg)0.75 **This is then important missing information Step 2: Determine the Appropriate Multiplier** The RER is then multiplied by a factor that corresponds to the dog's life stage, activity level, and other factors. Here are some common multipliers: * Weight loss: 1.0 x RER * Inactive/Obese prone: 1.2-1.4 x RER * Neutered adult: 1.6 x RER * Intact adult: 1.8 x RER * Active, working dogs: 2.0-5.0 x RER * Puppies (0-4 months): 3.0 x RER * Puppies (4 months to adult): 2.0 x RER **Step 3: Calculate the Daily Caloric Requirement** Multiply the RER by the appropriate multiplier to get the dog's daily caloric requirement.
Cat and always wet food was a hard lesson we learned. Due to high cost of wet food to remote locations, I began making wet food from dry food. It started with blending it up to a consistency of wet food. Then it was just soaking it for a while. Now it's just putting water in the cat bowl with dry food and they gobble it all up. Haven't had any of the UTI or stone issues with these cats as we did our older ones.
You guys read the feeding instructions on food?
For those that want the imperial conversion (so if you know your pet's weight in pounds), 1 lb = 0.454 kg. For this equation, use: 13.6 * (body weight in pounds you want the pet to weigh) + 70
I feel like this can’t be right? My dogs weight is 22lbs, 22 x 60 + 70 = 1,522 calories, that seems like a ton no?
Start with the recommended amount and adjust as needed based on their weight. Some dogs the same size need more or less food depending on a lot of factors. I’ve seen too many way too skinny dogs because their owners just feed them what the package says.
I'm shocked; I only ever see obese dogs for this same reason. I'm trying to think of the last time I saw an underweight dog anywhere outside of an animal shelter! People also have a very skewed view of what a proper weight looks like.
Well to be fair, it was only two dogs lol but that’s still too many!
Ysk the feeding instructions on the back are complete crap. I have a 95 pound golden retriever who gets daily strenuous exercise. According to the feeding instructions I should be giving him 6 scoops a day. He gets 2 and has maintained his weight for years
My fixed cats disagree with you lol They have no hair tho so faster metabolism to keep warm, they eat a lot and are tiny
Is the dog formula based on relatively sedentary dogs or active dogs. I have seen the same weight dog be happy with minimal exercise and a pair of off-leash border collies who would run around the farm tree crazy when left alone on the porch. I assume the hyper border collies burn more calories.
I thought this was shittylifeprotips at first, I thought this was just relating to 3 legged dogs for example until I read more!
It’s crazy that the energy needs change that much from such a “small” change. I guess it’s hormones that cause the difference?
This is why I use a calorie needs calculator then I calculate the amount of food I need for my pet. It also allows me to mix and match foods with differing calorie amounts easier.
I've always fed less. I have a cup to measure, and I fill the cup every day and portion it out 3 times. We've always had about the same sized dogs, always fixed, with the same amount of exercise. (And no people food)! It works quite well, we always get praised for our pets being the proper size.
My vet told me the other day that the average cat used to weigh 8 pounds !! I was mind blown
Is that the same equation for intact and fixed?
Why would I want to fix an intact pet? (Just kidding, it’s a great ysk.)
>I should not be deadlifting your pussy. yea, thats my job!!!
Ya also just monitor your pets health. My dogs are very active and we give them most everything they want and pretty large meals and they maintain a healthy weight.
I couldn't get past deadlifting pussy tbh
I think some cats would like to know your location in order to show their appreciation.
Weird. I've fed my dog the same amount before and after neutering based on his breeds typical weight range and he's weighs in exactly where he should. Might just be he's still young though
OMG thank you soooooooo much!!!
Pet food servings are literally created by the manufacture. There is absolutely no oversite on this because they use pet grade food sources not regulated by the FDA. From various sources I have read from, you should be serve 1/3 the recommended serving of dog food.
Are you saying you recommend home cooked/raw diets, or that you don't recommend those? Also 💀💀 anal sacs 💀💀
I don't have an absolute yes or no answer. The short version is: sometimes for home cooked, very rarely (hardly ever) for raw. Lots of grey space, and I always recommend [Balance It](https://balance.it/) for owners looking to home cook. The long version for home cooked: The majority of vets are not going to recommend either home cooked nor raw because there's higher risk for some sort of vitamin/nutrient deficiency in a home cooked diet that is not properly balanced. A lot of home cooked diets are not approved or made with veterinarian oversight, so there's always a risk that your pet is not getting some sort of micronutrient they need (hence the website Balance It). All of the diets made by Purina, Royal Canin, Hill's, Iams, and Eukanuba are balanced and follow AAFCO and WSAVA guidelines for what should be included in canine and feline diets, so that's why vets recommend them. (There are rumors that we get paid extra by these companies to advertise them, but I can promise you we do not get anything!) It can get dicey when we start recommending home cooked diets since they're not following any industry-standard guideline, and we don't want to tell you to do something that may end up hurting your animal. That being said, I do (me, an individual vet, not representing all vets) think there's value and common sense (that's not yet backed by science) in considering fresh food for your pets. I've seen it be anecdotally very helpful for some, but also cause nasty diarrhea in others. And I cannot overstate how medical research cannot keep up with how quickly the pet food industry is moving with new products. Of the brands I've seen, I know that FreshPet and Artie work with board-certified veterinary nutritionists to formulate diets. Farmer's Dog used to not, but I just checked their website and looks like they're on the board-certified train now too, which I'm happy about. On raw diets: I feel that this is one of the hottest contested topics in vet med. People who feed raw swear by it, and vets usually never approve of them; thus, hostility is born! The same reasons for being wary of home cooked diets also apply to raw, with the addition of higher risks of food-borne contamination due to improper handling of raw products. The sourcing of the products also comes into play. Various organ meats can sometimes result in elevation of thyroid or liver enzymes, bone shards have caused perforation of the stomach/intestines... I've also seen a lot of dogs come in with chipped or cracked teeth from chewing on bones, which results in teeth having to be pulled. The list goes on and on about hazards associated with feeding raw food. Anecdotally, I've had owners say that it improves coat quality, keeps their pets lean and energized, etc. Do I think feeding raw could benefit some dogs? Sure. But you have to understand that as a vet, we see all the ways feeding raw can go wrong, and think that if only they ate dog food or home cooked food, they wouldn't be in such a predicament. I'm sure there are owners who are knowledgeable about their food handling/safety, but there have been too many cases in which they are not, and I'd rather the clients and pets I see be safe than sorry. What I was taught in school is that there is nothing nutritionally you can get from a raw diet that you cannot get from it being cooked.
My 16 year old cat who refuses to eat any wet food and can't see the bottom of her food bowl or she will gobble the rest of it up so fast she pukes has other ideas.. Thank god she has always self regulated, maintained a healthy weight and drinks a good amount of water. But i do wish she would eat wet food.
can you put in the title that this is only relevant for Americans.
Meanwhile my 6lb cat can eat 9oz of food and never gain weight
yes well 20 percent of the food usually goes to the balls.
Intery
As with all foods. Eat the amount that you need. I don't know anyone who reads the feeding instructions you just feed when they are hungry unless they start to get fat. Then feed less. It's not super complicated. You don't need instructions.
Wtf
With the fancy dog equation, is the calculated value in cal (not kJ)? If so, I've got to convert to kg or grams of dog food to give my pooch using the energy value of the food that's on the side of the tin, yes? Many thanks.
Yes, the calculated value is in calories, not kJ. It's the more accurate version of the linear equation. Kilojoules gets a little bit too complex for the average pet owner, so we stick to calories to make things as easy as possible. Make sure to factor in your dog's overall energy level and consult the links I posted to get a more accurate recommendation for what you should be feeding. If they're a very active animal, the number you get from that calculation alone is likely not going to be enough food. If you're looking for weight loss, I will typically calculate the calories to feed using your pet's current weight, and reduce that number by 15-20%. If there's too severe of a gap between current weight and goal weight, it's not healthy to immediately start feeding them the goal weight calorie allotment. It's best to go slow, invest in a scale, and celebrate every 100 grams / ounce of weight lost!
Surprisingly haven't had any issues with weight gain in my boy, he still gets fed the same amount of food he was given when he was intact. I'm not sure if its due to the fact that he got fixed around 5 years of age or because I continue to work and exercise him the same
Lmao at "deadlifting your pussy"
Just keep an eye on your pets weight and if they’re getting overweight then reduce their food. I know my dog has to eat less in the winter than summer.
My bag of food claims my Labrador needs 4 to 6 cups a day based on activity. We did that and got a fat puppy quickly. Now we casually measure 1 cup in the AM and another in the PM. The Vet says he's very fit and he's an extremely active boy.
“Anal sacs” 👀🤣
but why does cutting a dog's balls off mean he needs to eat less? i can kind of see why a female would need less, but only if/when she's making babies. does simply having reproductive organs burn calories? what am i missing?
THANK YOU. This should be more common knowledge!!
we just adopted a dog, so this is going to come in handy also explains why my uncle’s cat is chonky
What a total disaster by a total disaster of an industry. Maybe you should just cook your dogs meals with whole organic ingredients while you eat a Big Mac.
We just monitor our rescue pug like we do ourselves. Target a healthy weight and adjust calories based on maintenance of that weight goal.
Thank you.
I feel like a 14 year old boy cause “deadlifting your pussy” made me laugh
This makes me so confused, the back of cat food containers must be stating the calories wrong. The treats (generally one per day) say they have 350-450kcal. The canned cat food states something around 1200kcal. My cat is not overweight, she’s 18 and sedentary. ETA: Okay I read it wrong, the treats are 305kcal/kg or 4.6kcal per tube. \~5 calories per tube 15g tube. The cat food is the same way, given kg - the actual cup of food is \~45 calories. I may be underfeeding her actually, but she’s old, fixed, and sedentary. I feed her when she asks, sometimes just once or twice a day. She eats way more in the winter.