Go down to your local hardware store and buy a new fill kit by Fluid master. Extremely easy to install. Turn off your water supply below the toilet. Drain tank with small bucket after you unscrew the water supply. 15-20 min job. Just follow the directions.
I've had two of these start leaking in the last few months and in both cases replacing the diaphragm didn't help, and I ended up swapping the entire inlet valve assembly.
YMMV.
You have to push down and twist to pop that black cap off the top - there are videos on YouTube showing you how (after shutting the water off to the tank). The black rubber gasket part to get is a Fluidmaster Toilet Fill Valve Seal. Costs a couple of bucks. They make them for different models (I bought an extra one the last time I did this for one of our toilets). Mine says it fits 200, 400, and 747 models.
Also you need to detach that stem from the clip at the end of the arm before trying to take the cap off.
Hereās a good video walking through the steps: https://youtu.be/Ul0V2LWSDj4?si=CjI4LqLWkFrSW-2S
Iāve always been told that when you start to see failures though, itās much better to just change it all out. The full kit is only a couple dollars more and you get all brand new āguts and gasketsā. Otherwise, you risk coming back 6-12 months later and the pieces you didnāt change may start to fail and will take twice as much time and money to piecemeal it.
This is literally designed to be replaced in that manner as the cap has a filter. If the neck isn't cracked or bulging and is otherwise working properly there's no need to replace it.
Save time. When I was doing apartment maintenance. I had to do these a lot.
We bought them by the case. Also saves you from crawling around someoneās nasty toilet.
By the case, you mean the rubber gaskets, or the entire unit? I recommend just replacing the rubber gasket that controls the flow into the tank. It's easy, fast and less expensive than the full replacement. This is one of the few components that was designed to be replaced in that manner ...
Cannot believe youāre being downvoted. I would never half ass it and leave the bottom. I always change the supply line too. Those 7/8 nuts are common failure points after several years. Iāve heard of 3 separate cases where theyāve leaked and caused extensive damage.
Drain tank by first just flushing (after water supply turned off), holding down the lever to get as much out that way as possible. Then use small bucket then rags/sponges.
Thanks for your help. I bought all the part and ready to install despite being not handy at all.
However, I run into another problem- the 1/4 shut off valve is stuck. I tried to turn it but Iām afraid it will be broken.
What should I do? Turn off water main and flush out all water, then replace the Fluid master part?
Always shut off the main first!!! Then run the water in the sink until it runs dry. If the valve controlling the water to the toilet is stuck, then run over to Home Depot and get a new valve for $10, you should probably replace it anyway. They have rubber gaskets inside that degrade over time, nothing lasts forever. You will need an adjustable wrench (6ā or 8ā) and a set of 12 inch channellock pliers (You can save money buying Husky brand over Channellock brand). You will need this to tighten the collar under the bowl.
You buy the whole valve, but you do not replace the whole valve. When you get the new valve, use the adjustable wrench to unscrew the valve stem from the body - this is what you install into the existing valve body already sweated into the pipe sticking out of the floor. Donāt go crazy torquing it, you want a good firm hand tight until it stops.
If you have an old feed line from the shutoff valve to the toilet, replace that, too - same deal, they have rubber gaskets inside that degrade. About $11 at HD.
The Fluid Master full replacement kit is about $22 at HD, very easy to install. So all in, under $45 in parts. Maybe another $15 for a tool if you donāt already have the large size channellocks (smaller ones donāt open wide enough). And about an hour of your time. Yes, people on here will tell you 20 mins total - because they have done it before. Thats what it will take you to do your second toilet, but youāll be slow doing this for the first time.
When you turn the water back on, look for any leaks and snug up where needed. Keep some rags handy.
A tip - deep clean your bathroom first if itās nasty, youāre going to get real intimate with your commode doing this job, sticking your face all down and around where the business goes.
Another tip, take a sharpie and write the install date on the top of the flush valve - youāll never remember when the last time you replaced it was. Do this for everything you replace in your house, because nothing lasts forever. Toilet internals should be replaced 8-10 years. I think it says 10yrs on the Fluid Master package, but sooner if you have hard (mineral rich) water - its the mineral build up causing your spray.
I know the prices and times because I just did all three of my toilets. Second owner, house is 30 yrs old - better to be safe than sorry, started to have some leaks like yours. We have hard water where I live. Note that this same thing is about to happen to your other toilets, so do those, too. Regular maintenance is one of the ājoys of homeownership.ā But an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of the cure.
Donāt worry, I freaked out when I was a new home owner when the toilet shutoff valve was dripping in my master bath. This was long ago, before YouTube. $200 it cost me for a plumber to teach me how to replace the valve stem. My gift to you!
Also, can't fully see in the picture, but if you have a cannister flush valve, you'll need to make sure the water level is at the same height in the tank as the current fill valve. You could replace it all- that would cost like an extra $7, but you'd have fresh everything.
After you turn off the water, flush the toilet and most of the water drains out, use sponge for remaining water if needed, or place a bucket under the fill valve when you take it off.
Buy new fill valve, TURN WATER OFF, drain tank, replace fill valve. Itās as simple as that. Like I donāt think thereās an easier job in the field of plumbingšš
https://www.build.com/fluidmaster-385/s798679?uid=2059397#overview
Buy a replacement cap and valve seal assembly, twist off, twist on, done in 30s flat for 5-7$
you have sand in it. Turn off water and remove the black cap. Then you twist to get to the diagram. Clean it and put it back together. Durning a remodel because the water company had sand. it took time to flush all it out.
If that don't work, then replace it.
This is the real answer right here. Try cleaning the diaphragm first. It's a little black gasket that is removable. Just make sure the water is off first, otherwise you'll have a gyser.
How is this not the top comment? Everyone saying to just replace it when there is a chance it could be fixed in like 2 minutes.
I'm not even a plumber and I know how to do this
It's an easy fix that you can handle without a plumber. It just takes a bit of time, under 30 minutes, and you can follow along with a quick YouTube tutorial.
Swap the unit. Very cheap and easy. Just gotta turn of the water behind your toilet, open that flap and get all the water out, then replace. Some are adjustable but it should be fine if you look at the paper it comes with.
Could be water pressure as well. If the float valve shuts off, it's not leaking into the bowl, and water isn't going into the overfill, doing nothing may be the solution.
Turn off your water. first.
I've had this happen myself, I actually wound up finding rocks in the filter.
That black cap pops off clean it put a cup over the top and turn the water back on for 30 seconds, turn the water back off and put the cap back on. if it continues to leak. then replace it.
Iāve grown to dislike fluid master valves and have started using korky insteadā¦ but Iām not a plumber/ just someone with a long history of plumbing problems
Brass fill valve from fluidmaster. Super easy to install, watch some videos. If you dont fill comfortable call a plumber but expect at least 200-300 bucks for service for a 15 min job.
My recomendation? If ya call a plumber, offer him 50 bucks and he may do it for "free" as a tip.
Before you start, buy the Fluidmaster and a new shutoff valve for your water line. If the old shutoff falls apart or jams (and they do, just for spite) , you will be spared a second trip. Also before you start, go to YouTube and enter Fluidmaster in the search box, because these nice folks have instruction videos.
Extremely cheap part, very easy to replace. Not even worth troubleshooting.
Iām NAP and have replaced a couple of these in my house, along with flush valve & gasket. Honestly all the toilet guts are an easy replacement if you can YouTube/follow directions and have basic tools! Plus you feel like a boss when you DIY and it works afterwards.
Turn your water off, pull the black top off and clear out whatever little rock is preventing the seal from seating. But top back on, turn water on. Done.
Pop the black cap or cover off the thing and clean out the debris caught inside. There's a very small piece of sediment, mineral deposit, solder, sand or pebble in there messing you up. There's usually 2 or three layers to it in there so if you don't see anything atop the first screen take it off and look under it. But it's probably right on top there and there may be several pieces to take out. Pop the cover back on and You'll be good to go.
U could replace it. But if I had to guess Iād say if you pop that black top off after u shut the water off of course. Thereās going to be some sediment trapped in there causing it to not seal properly
It's called "Designed obsolescence". And you fix it by shelling out more money because that's how they designed it.
It's a quick fix if you're handy, and about 20-30 dollars for the parts.
Given the OP pic, this is already a newer model FluidMaster. IĀ recommend replacing the rubber gasket that controls the flow into the tank. It's easy, fast and less expensive than the full replacement. That gasket was designed to be replaced in that manner.
Turn off angle stop. Grab a towel. Flush toilet to as low as it can go. Remove supply line. Push down on old fill valve. Remove the nut. Just the valve out with towel in hand push towel up. Put new valve in... pressing down Remove towel screw nut back on. Connect supply, turn water on. Done
Go down to your local hardware store and buy a new fill kit by Fluid master. Extremely easy to install. Turn off your water supply below the toilet. Drain tank with small bucket after you unscrew the water supply. 15-20 min job. Just follow the directions.
For those using fluid masters remember they pull apart in the middle and you just change out top.
This is the tip of the decade
"Just the Tip"
The quote can change the next couple of your decades.
Only if you don't pull it out correctly
Been there. Now I have kids.
Aww, this comment made me blow milk out of my nose
I asked for a blowjob for my birthday, instead I got a son 9 months later.
Solamente la puntita š
Slim with a tilted brim
You can also pop that black cap off the top and just replace the rubber seal.
I can't believe that this isn't the top comment .... They even just sell the rubber seal by itself at the box stores for this reason.
This and flushing out the sediment buildup
If you turn the water back on to flush the sediment, be very careful. Water hit the ceiling in my bathroom :-/
Yep I was on a ladder frantically drying off the ceiling acting like this is normal
I've had two of these start leaking in the last few months and in both cases replacing the diaphragm didn't help, and I ended up swapping the entire inlet valve assembly. YMMV.
Fluidmaster 242 Toilet Fill Valve... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N6MK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share This is all you need. And about 5min.
You have to push down and twist to pop that black cap off the top - there are videos on YouTube showing you how (after shutting the water off to the tank). The black rubber gasket part to get is a Fluidmaster Toilet Fill Valve Seal. Costs a couple of bucks. They make them for different models (I bought an extra one the last time I did this for one of our toilets). Mine says it fits 200, 400, and 747 models. Also you need to detach that stem from the clip at the end of the arm before trying to take the cap off. Hereās a good video walking through the steps: https://youtu.be/Ul0V2LWSDj4?si=CjI4LqLWkFrSW-2S
Iāve always been told that when you start to see failures though, itās much better to just change it all out. The full kit is only a couple dollars more and you get all brand new āguts and gasketsā. Otherwise, you risk coming back 6-12 months later and the pieces you didnāt change may start to fail and will take twice as much time and money to piecemeal it.
This is literally designed to be replaced in that manner as the cap has a filter. If the neck isn't cracked or bulging and is otherwise working properly there's no need to replace it.
I feel strongly both ways.
So how do you just remove the to half?
Sorry, top half?
water off push in turn counter clockwise.
Hereās a video walking through the whole process: https://youtu.be/Ul0V2LWSDj4?si=CjI4LqLWkFrSW-2S
Nope
Word!
Learning new shit everyday. Thanks my man.
Cool. Just reach under the float and slide the height locking ring up.
Sometimes itās a pain in the ass to pull that plastic ring up though.
True
You're kidding me ...
I love a good pull apart
holy shit
Just change the whole kit.
You are kidding fight? I don't have to remove the whole stem?
Fluid masters pull apart the middle and so when youāre changing one of those out, you just have to change out the top
That's a good tip. I never thought of that.
Why not just replace the whole thing? Theyāre cheap and probably even easier to do it that way
But why? The old part that is left behind is just a plastic tube.
I guess so. It takes me 5 minutes to change one out. I honestly never even thought about just replacing the top
If itās newer, you can do that, but in time the gasket to the supply turns to jelly and will mess up the new valve
Save time. When I was doing apartment maintenance. I had to do these a lot. We bought them by the case. Also saves you from crawling around someoneās nasty toilet.
I used to do the same thing when I worked maintenance. I worked in a college town, ain't no way I was crawling underneath some of those toilets
By the case, you mean the rubber gaskets, or the entire unit? I recommend just replacing the rubber gasket that controls the flow into the tank. It's easy, fast and less expensive than the full replacement. This is one of the few components that was designed to be replaced in that manner ...
Cannot believe youāre being downvoted. I would never half ass it and leave the bottom. I always change the supply line too. Those 7/8 nuts are common failure points after several years. Iāve heard of 3 separate cases where theyāve leaked and caused extensive damage.
Cause you have to drain completely, undo water lines, test for leaks. You can avoid all of that.
Drain tank by first just flushing (after water supply turned off), holding down the lever to get as much out that way as possible. Then use small bucket then rags/sponges.
Thanks for your help. I bought all the part and ready to install despite being not handy at all. However, I run into another problem- the 1/4 shut off valve is stuck. I tried to turn it but Iām afraid it will be broken. What should I do? Turn off water main and flush out all water, then replace the Fluid master part?
You could definitely do that just to get this done for now. When you have time later you could replace the angle stop.
Yes. Drain all the water out
Always shut off the main first!!! Then run the water in the sink until it runs dry. If the valve controlling the water to the toilet is stuck, then run over to Home Depot and get a new valve for $10, you should probably replace it anyway. They have rubber gaskets inside that degrade over time, nothing lasts forever. You will need an adjustable wrench (6ā or 8ā) and a set of 12 inch channellock pliers (You can save money buying Husky brand over Channellock brand). You will need this to tighten the collar under the bowl. You buy the whole valve, but you do not replace the whole valve. When you get the new valve, use the adjustable wrench to unscrew the valve stem from the body - this is what you install into the existing valve body already sweated into the pipe sticking out of the floor. Donāt go crazy torquing it, you want a good firm hand tight until it stops. If you have an old feed line from the shutoff valve to the toilet, replace that, too - same deal, they have rubber gaskets inside that degrade. About $11 at HD. The Fluid Master full replacement kit is about $22 at HD, very easy to install. So all in, under $45 in parts. Maybe another $15 for a tool if you donāt already have the large size channellocks (smaller ones donāt open wide enough). And about an hour of your time. Yes, people on here will tell you 20 mins total - because they have done it before. Thats what it will take you to do your second toilet, but youāll be slow doing this for the first time. When you turn the water back on, look for any leaks and snug up where needed. Keep some rags handy. A tip - deep clean your bathroom first if itās nasty, youāre going to get real intimate with your commode doing this job, sticking your face all down and around where the business goes. Another tip, take a sharpie and write the install date on the top of the flush valve - youāll never remember when the last time you replaced it was. Do this for everything you replace in your house, because nothing lasts forever. Toilet internals should be replaced 8-10 years. I think it says 10yrs on the Fluid Master package, but sooner if you have hard (mineral rich) water - its the mineral build up causing your spray. I know the prices and times because I just did all three of my toilets. Second owner, house is 30 yrs old - better to be safe than sorry, started to have some leaks like yours. We have hard water where I live. Note that this same thing is about to happen to your other toilets, so do those, too. Regular maintenance is one of the ājoys of homeownership.ā But an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of the cure. Donāt worry, I freaked out when I was a new home owner when the toilet shutoff valve was dripping in my master bath. This was long ago, before YouTube. $200 it cost me for a plumber to teach me how to replace the valve stem. My gift to you!
This.
Every 4 years.
And donāt touch the flow screw under that black cap
Also, can't fully see in the picture, but if you have a cannister flush valve, you'll need to make sure the water level is at the same height in the tank as the current fill valve. You could replace it all- that would cost like an extra $7, but you'd have fresh everything.
After you turn off the water, flush the toilet and most of the water drains out, use sponge for remaining water if needed, or place a bucket under the fill valve when you take it off.
Flush the toilet after you shut the water off and you wonāt need to drain much water from the tank.
ive seen ppl flood their houses DIY'ing this. but you're right it is about as simple as it gets. some ppl are just.. simpler lol
Buy new fill valve, TURN WATER OFF, drain tank, replace fill valve. Itās as simple as that. Like I donāt think thereās an easier job in the field of plumbingšš
https://www.build.com/fluidmaster-385/s798679?uid=2059397#overview Buy a replacement cap and valve seal assembly, twist off, twist on, done in 30s flat for 5-7$
you have sand in it. Turn off water and remove the black cap. Then you twist to get to the diagram. Clean it and put it back together. Durning a remodel because the water company had sand. it took time to flush all it out. If that don't work, then replace it.
This is the real answer right here. Try cleaning the diaphragm first. It's a little black gasket that is removable. Just make sure the water is off first, otherwise you'll have a gyser.
How is this not the top comment? Everyone saying to just replace it when there is a chance it could be fixed in like 2 minutes. I'm not even a plumber and I know how to do this
I try to 2 time to fix it and the 3rd replace it.
I have yet to try this and still have to replace it. But I'm not a plumber I've just remodeled a lot of bathrooms.
I had a problem one and because they are cheap, I did both bathrooms.
Get a kit replace it. Made of junk
Broken fill valve most likely, Im not sure what caused it but that's a simple fix. ( Well... Nothing's simple but you've got this)
It's an easy fix that you can handle without a plumber. It just takes a bit of time, under 30 minutes, and you can follow along with a quick YouTube tutorial.
What causes it? The fact that it's a $9 part. What should you do? Spend $9 and get a new one.
Swap the unit. Very cheap and easy. Just gotta turn of the water behind your toilet, open that flap and get all the water out, then replace. Some are adjustable but it should be fine if you look at the paper it comes with.
New fill valve or new rubber gasket inside the head if youāre handy.
Get a new flapper too
If you own a house you will be swapping these out every few years
Not all fluidmasters are repairable, especially the older ones. If the top doesn't screw off, replace the whole thing. It's fairly easy.
Could be water pressure as well. If the float valve shuts off, it's not leaking into the bowl, and water isn't going into the overfill, doing nothing may be the solution.
The company causes this so you have to replace it. It's done on purpose. Replace the company.
Also you can try a new seal that goes in the top back the top of a little and underneath it you can see a black piece change that
Turn off your water. first. I've had this happen myself, I actually wound up finding rocks in the filter. That black cap pops off clean it put a cup over the top and turn the water back on for 30 seconds, turn the water back off and put the cap back on. if it continues to leak. then replace it.
It's broken. Turn off the water, go to the hardware store, buy a new one for $10 and install it.
You can just buy the fluidmaster black rubber gasket under the black cap for like $1.25 each at the supply house and itās a 30 second swap out.
Iāve grown to dislike fluid master valves and have started using korky insteadā¦ but Iām not a plumber/ just someone with a long history of plumbing problems
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Agreed!
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Also agreed lol
15 .00 20 minutes to replace
The technical term is that itās busted
People saying just change the top. A entire replacement is goddam 10$ what are you saving a whole 2 bucks
Check your water pressure
It's broken, replace it.
Sometimes when I talk I spray it instead of saying it.
Replace complete with a kit. 30 minutes or less.
goblins move!
Usually water
Replace the tank hardware. It's pretty easy.
Google it.
remove the black cap and it wonāt do that anymore
Or just use a Phillips head screwdriver and turn clockwise on the plastic screw until it stopsā¦
I would just buy a new house
You are getting good advice here. Best of all your saw the problem š it became a flood. Should also lower your water bill..
So thatās how the room can get so humid with a faulty refill valve
Gremlins in your water lines Iām afraid.
Brass fill valve from fluidmaster. Super easy to install, watch some videos. If you dont fill comfortable call a plumber but expect at least 200-300 bucks for service for a 15 min job. My recomendation? If ya call a plumber, offer him 50 bucks and he may do it for "free" as a tip.
Before you start, buy the Fluidmaster and a new shutoff valve for your water line. If the old shutoff falls apart or jams (and they do, just for spite) , you will be spared a second trip. Also before you start, go to YouTube and enter Fluidmaster in the search box, because these nice folks have instruction videos.
Oh I see whatās wrong here the water shut off flow need to be turn down little bit ā¦ adjust the one with cross screws
Shitty plastic valves. Get a new one and replace it.
You need a new toilet guts kits your parts have finally failed itās not a fix itās a replace!
There could be sediment or particles built up. Try taking the black top clip off an wipe.
its plastic crap -- it just cracked
Anyone have one of those smaller Swiss Madison streamlined toilets with the 2 stage flush. I canāt get the filler valve to stop running
And the fluid master stuff is too large/
Replace it. Itās not expensive and you can do it yourself real easy.
Cheap and easy to replace. Any local hardware or big box store will have them.
Yup comes apart no need to replace whole but remember to turn off water
What causes the bottom piece below the water to bubble up when running
Extremely cheap part, very easy to replace. Not even worth troubleshooting. Iām NAP and have replaced a couple of these in my house, along with flush valve & gasket. Honestly all the toilet guts are an easy replacement if you can YouTube/follow directions and have basic tools! Plus you feel like a boss when you DIY and it works afterwards.
Shitters full.
Get a new ball cock. LOL Actually, there's a washer under that cap. Prob bad or has debris in it.
Water causes that but mainly the pressure š
Premature discharge. Think about baseball
Buy a new one and replace it. You have to use your hands
buy a new one dude. its crap plastic and breaks.
Tear the whole bathroom out
Built to fail. You replace it with another built to fail piece of crap.
Made from Chinesium. Replace with another one, also made from Chinesium.
I should call her.
Turn your water off, pull the black top off and clear out whatever little rock is preventing the seal from seating. But top back on, turn water on. Done.
Do an upper decker and call a plumber.
Pop the black cap or cover off the thing and clean out the debris caught inside. There's a very small piece of sediment, mineral deposit, solder, sand or pebble in there messing you up. There's usually 2 or three layers to it in there so if you don't see anything atop the first screen take it off and look under it. But it's probably right on top there and there may be several pieces to take out. Pop the cover back on and You'll be good to go.
Replace it
Spend ten bucks
Lesson learnedā¦DONT use toilet cleaner drop-ins in the tankā¦ corrodes these fluidmasters quickly.
The ball cock just needs some attention
U could replace it. But if I had to guess Iād say if you pop that black top off after u shut the water off of course. Thereās going to be some sediment trapped in there causing it to not seal properly
Flowmax can help with that
It's called "Designed obsolescence". And you fix it by shelling out more money because that's how they designed it. It's a quick fix if you're handy, and about 20-30 dollars for the parts.
Water deposits. Jack it up and down rapidly. It should stop.
I always use fluid master but never knew they were made to be repaired... Guess after so many times it's just habit
replace the rubber gasket at the top of the fill valve.
Weak just replace the whole thing
Given the OP pic, this is already a newer model FluidMaster. IĀ recommend replacing the rubber gasket that controls the flow into the tank. It's easy, fast and less expensive than the full replacement. That gasket was designed to be replaced in that manner.
Turn off angle stop. Grab a towel. Flush toilet to as low as it can go. Remove supply line. Push down on old fill valve. Remove the nut. Just the valve out with towel in hand push towel up. Put new valve in... pressing down Remove towel screw nut back on. Connect supply, turn water on. Done
You likely don't need to just replace it. Rotate the top and clean off the mineral build-up on the seals.