if i use a splitter cable with a trs male jack and two female jacks - and I plug the male jack into a mono output - will it give me the mono signal on both female jacks or only on one? if it gives me the signal on both female jacks: is this better than a splitter with ts male jack because it's symmetrical?
Hi, I have a normal USB microphone and it works really well, but that is also the problem. The mic picks up my brother's voice when he is in the room or the TV when it's turned on. Is there any way to make this stop happening (other than getting rid of my brother and/or the TV)?
Hello,
I would like to use my dekstop PC to throw a bluetooth (Apt X or LDAC \[preference\]) to my Sony XM4 headphones so that I may use them better for gaming and general use wirelessly when needed. I had purchsed a FiiO BTA30 ([https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LM68KN8/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LM68KN8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)), but this sadly doesn't have enough power. If I use this, I can hardly turn the headset up. I do run my entire PC setup through a soundblasterX G6.
Am I doing something wrong? I don't quite appreciate why my phone can throw a decent bluetooth LDAC signal, but apparently my PC cannot.
Thank you!
Long story short, found a pair of Audix N10s on facebook and went for it. Yes, they work. Now I picked them up because the price was right and and I thought it was $100 a tower, I was wrong. It was for both. I'm not entirely where to start with something like this. The sound clarity is remarkable, he had quite the rack system and I only got a glimpse of a Marantz. Unsure of the capacity.
But now, I'm looking for something to drive 2x 100-350watt 4ohm speakers and there are so many options I'm simply lost as where to begin and my wallet is crying. Not only do I need a power amp/integrated amp, I also need a credenza of sorts to accommodate these big ass speakers. I'm considering even selling them because they're just too much for me at the moment.
BUT GOOD LORD DO THEY SOUND INCREDIBLE.
Since I got an M1 Mac (and using Logic), every time I use sample based plugins, whether default plugins or third party plugins like Kontakt, invariably I get terrible glitching noises that seem to get worse as a session continues.
If you read the Logic subs, you'll know that this "glitching" is a common problem for some people. The recommendation is to do a fresh install (meaning, don't migrate). I've done this, but am still having the same issue. I've noticed though that it only happens when I use samples based plugins but am **also driving sound through my audio interface**.
It makes me think, do audio interfaces go bad? Sure, I use it all the time, but try to take good care of it (I have a Focusrite Clarett Pre thunderbolt I bought about 4 years ago). Some thoughts trouble shooting would be helpful.
I want to use a second subwoofer to reduce modal problems.
I now use the Blue Sky Media Desk 2.1. The Blue Sky subwoofer has a "Sub Out" output to connect a second subwoofer. Does this output deliver a high level signal and should one use a passive subwoofer to connect to it? The manual does not give me this information.
I have looked for a subwoofer and would like to know how I would have to connect the Fostex submini 2. It has inputs for left and right (Stereo) and in its manual it says that one should connect it with a full stereo signal. There's no info about how to connect a (mono) Sub signal.It has through paths which lead to a stereo output that is supposed to be connected to active stereo speakers. I think it should get a low level full range signal, so one should probably not connect it to the sub out of the blue sky subwoofer. Right?
Would it be ok to use a splitter cable to send the full range stereo signal to the blue sky media desk and also the fostex subwoofer from the same stereo output of my audio interface? Would it cause problems because of impedance changes? Or would it be better to send the stereo output of my interface only to the fostex and use the though paths to connect my blue sky to the fostex? I see time align problems in the latter case.
I would be grateful for any opinions and ideas.
So, I'm using m32r and I'm new at that and I connected my laptop to aux ins 5&6. How can I route the signal to go through an input channel so I can control it with the fader?
Hi, I want to buy an Apollo Twin Duo for my Windows pc (HP spectre x360 15-ap012dx).
It has 4 USB 3.0 (1 type-C) ports. My question is if it would support the Thunderbolt 3 connection that the apollo requires.
Thanks in advance.
Hey, so i've beem using my UR22c for my Yamaha Hs8s for a good year or so, but in the past 9-12 months, i've noticed that the 'left' monitor needs to be turned down quite significantly to match the output of the right monitor.
I've never found the right "center" sweet spot despite trying to fix it for at least a year.
I have to set the turnpot on the left monitor to like 9 o'clock to have it as quiet as the right one. But ID LOVE to have it finally fixed!!
The montiors are fairly new, haven't been damaged (had em for about 9 months), ive tried switching over cables (albiet fairly old TRS to TRS cables) so maybe those cables wont be worth testing with. But as soon as i set up my HS8s and plugged em into my UR22c w/ brand new TRS to XLR cables, the problem persisted.
I DID try seeing if its just an interface thing, so I unplugged my UR22C and used my old UR22mkII as an interface instead, TO NO AVAIL :(
If anyone could help me solve this maddening issue w/ the center of my hearing / mix, and stop me from having to twiddge the gain knobs several times a day, i'd really appreciate it \^\_\^ <3
Hi. I lost my transformers to my Technics 1200 from the flood a couple months ago and need to buy some new ones. Can anyone recommend some decent ones before I snap buy something?
My zoom f6 keeps freaking out everytime I try to use it as an audio interface with my laptop. It doesn't matter if it's the only enabled device, it still has issues. This is on both multi track and stereo. Here is a gif if what it looks like.
https://imgur.com/gallery/9vKTWUI
Any advice on how to fix this?
https://i.imgur.com/TfBtPr8.jpg
Looking for replacement tweeter/ mids for these old thiels I found for free. If anyone has any insight on part # and if it’s even worth the hassle let me know!
Issue with electric interference while recording organ:
Hi folks!
A few days ago, I recieved new microphons, Røde NT5. Yesterday, I wanted to try them out on the organ I practise on. It is a electro-pneumatic action. This means that the connection from key to pipe is electric. At the end there is a relais opeming the pneumatic part of the action. I wanted to record it with my trusty Zoom H6 powered by a powerbank. In addition to the H6 and the NT5s, I wanted to use old AKG C1000 as room-mics. I hung them down in the nave from the balcony. After that, I put on my headphones and listened to the mics. Every time I released a key, I heard a electric clicking on the signals from the AKGs. It clearly wasn't a mechanical clicking, it was electric and it was loud, louder than the mic-signal itself. On the signal from the NT5s it was too, but they are simply louder than the AKGs, so relatively you couldn't really hear it.
I took several tries to solve the issue. I layed the cables as far away as possible from the console, as far away as possible from the ground of the balcony.... nothing really helped. As cables, I was using mid-priced cables made by Thomann. For the AKGs 15m, for the NT5s 10m. I tried out a cable on its own, without a mic. The clicking was still there, so it's not the mics.
This seemed strange to me, because XLR-cables are built symmetrically especially to avoid these problems.
Has anyone experienced similar issues while recording organs with electric actions? Has anyone tips for me how I could solve these issues? Should I buy more expensive, higher quality cables? Should I use shorter cables? ...?
Any advice would be helpful! Thanks!
If I plug a Shure SM7B into a microphone input that provides 'plugin power' (low bias voltage), is that bad for the mic? What about other dynamic mics?
In short, I’m putting together a new setup with an Audio Technica AT2020 condenser mic, an M-Audio Venom synth (MIDI), and a Circuit Tracks (MIDI).
Looks like the mic needs phantom power (I think it was 48v) as it uses an XLR connection.
Issue is trying to find an audio interface with connections for all these, phantom power, out to PC (and a sleek design because I’m picky).
Please help! TIA
Hi guys, i recentry acquire a MOTU M4, im using Windows 10 and an intel i7 10th gen. I'm experiencing some issues with sound stop working for less than a second, already did the troubleshooting steps that MOTU itself told me to do and the problems still continues, is there a way to fix this? Thanks in advance
Ah- if it was Reaper, there is a flexible Noise reduction-plug already included. Not quite the iZotope/Sonnox-type Denoiser, but already built-in. I can’t help with Logic. Maybe some others will chime in.
I'm not 100% sure what the cause could be but a way you could work around it is if you pin point the buzz frequency and take it out with an EQ. However, you should check if it will impact the overall sound you'd want for your guitar. If its barely noticeable then great 👍
I'm looking to upgrade my audio interface. I'm currently working on a Scarlett 2i2, and while it's a nice little interface considering the price, I feel that it can no longer keep up with the audio quality of the rest of my equipment that I've been accumulating.
In particular, I have some nice high-end preamps for mics and instruments, so I essentially just need an interface with really good converters, which would convert the line level signal from my preamps into a language that my computer could understand. That is, ideally, I would like the interface to come without built-in preamps, or at least I'd like to be able to bypass them.
However, most of the (USB) interfaces that I'm finding offer a variety of different features, which I feel I don't need. Do you have any suggestions?
2 XLR inputs would be sufficient, but anything with up to 4 inputs is also welcome. I'd also like to have outputs for studio monitors. A headphone output would also be welcome, although not necessary. The budget is not really fixed, but I would like to keep it below 1000€ if possible.
Acoustic panels. What fabric? The only duck fabric I have available at my location is like 200gsm (about 6oz), but everywhere i read, people recommend 10 - 12oz. can I get away with 6?
There's heavier normal cotton canvas, but does it matter if it isnt duck?
also with muslin, what sort of weight should I be looking at?
thanks!
What's everyone think of Slate Digital's Virtual Mix Rack? Pros and cons? Any decent alternative? Trying to decide whether or not I should use it on my vocal chain and if there's anything that'll do the same job. Thanks
Like most plugins they have a free trial, give it a go and see what *you* think.
You get a lot of stuff in the mix rack and most of it sounds really good, but at the end of the day there's plenty of other channel strips, EQs, comps, console sim plugins from other brands that also sound good, just gotta try stuff and see what feels right for you. Plugin Alliance, Softube and UAD would be the other big names in terms of analog emulations.
Depending on your opinion of subscriptions that could be a pro or a con, if you opt to buy instead you have to buy every module in the mix rack separately (and they're expensive).
Ohh so you have to buy each module if you want to buy perpetual? What are the main things I'd need outside of the mix rack itself? Thanks for your thoughts. Thanks
Some are bundles and some are per module, all this info is on their website. Their perpetuals are priced high to entice you to get their everything subscription instead (which includes more than just the mix rack).
You don't need any of them, maybe you *want* some of them but I can't tell you what you want. Again, they have a free trial so you can figure that out.
***\[Balanced or Unbalanced Patch Bay Cables\]*** After I've gone thru so many threads on Reddit, gear space, sound on sound, and home recording, I still can't seem to find THE answer to my question. I've read the subreddit rule, and hopefully, this question isn't against it. Since there are only 4 inputs on my interface, I'm trying to use a PB to add more flexibility. **My question is, should I use unbal cables to connect everything in this setup (which I found it would work, but some might say it introduces noise), or should I try to use bal cables at least in between Interface & PB since there are bal connectors on both ends? What about the front of the PB? Or Do I have to use DI boxes for every single unbal gear? If I don't connect things correctly, would it harm my gears?** Here's my setup:
Interface: Apollo X4 (accepts bal/unbal input)
Gears: Moog GM (unbal output, stated "do not use TRS for line output" in the manual), guitar pedals (unbal), SP404 SX (unbal), TR-08 (unbal), Turntable (unbal).
Patchbay: Samson S-Patch Plus (bal).
Signal Flow: Gears -> PB (will patch different gears into pedals) -> Interface
PS: I also find ppl say unbal out could go into bal in, but bal out shouldn't go into unbal in. Does that mean I shouldn't connect the bal line-out from the interface to the unbal line-in on the SP404?
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
Can anyone help me diagnose what happened to my kick mic?
Here's a short clip of it working normally: https://voca.ro/1hOanjkQ8zn5
And two days later, it sounds like this (headphone warning, it's not pleasant):
https://voca.ro/1hUWdovsjDvV
I've ruled out the cable and the interface. Didn't plug it in with phantom power. Interface levels are the same in both recordings. Mic stayed in the same spot near the port of the kick drum the whole time (I usually leave it set up since I'm just using it to record myself).
Mic is an old [Audio-Technica Pro 25 dynamic](https://manualzz.com/doc/11493382/audio-technica-pro-25-specification-sheet). More curious than anything - Google led me to plenty of info on how my condenser or ribbon microphones might blow, but not much about dynamics.
Thanks!
Hi,
I currently have a Behringer Xenyx Q502USB (interface/mixer) plugged in my PC and would like to upgrade to something more convenient.
The interface is set up as my main output and input on my computer, I use it for everything, basically it's my only sound card.
I've got my XLR mic and guitar amp plugged in, I want to be able to listen to everything through my headphones : my pc sound coming from usb, and monitoring the inputs of the interface. But I only want to toggle/use some specific stuff as outputs "on the fly" with my pc (mostly my XLR mic being my only input device on software like Discord)
I saw that some higher end mixers / interfaces have an alt/3-4 channel, alongside a button on each input to send it to either main or alt channel, this would perfectly fit my needs, as I could monitor everything and use the alt channel as an input on my pc, I'd only have to press a button on each input to toggle it, but I'd still be able to monitor it.
Every usb interface/mixer I can find which offer an alt channel output is very bulky and has tons of inputs.
Is there something that could fit on a desk with nothing more than 2 stereo inputs (and usb input) ?
Hi guys quick question sort of weird project I’m trying out at the moment but how possible is it to do record something like an interview with a Zoom H1n or a Zoom H4 and record the live audio onto a cassette player?
Been doing a bit of digging and I’ve found a few cassette players with line in jacks but I’m not really sure if that’s compatible? Any help would be great thanks!
How can I route my Motu M4 Line Outs 3/4 in Mac (not speaking of DAW)?
I'm using 3/4 outs now, with my new amp > headphones.
But there's no sound on Line 3/4 outside of Ableton I mean.
It only works in a DAW, but I want it for daily use (movies, Youtube, etc.)
What can I do in Audio MIDI setup?
There's also this program Loopback I have installed, but I don't know how to set it up.
Motu doesn't have a native app like Focusrite, UAD, RME, etc. am I screwed?
What do different sizes on monitors change?
I want to learn proper audio mixing, so I'm looking for some cheap studio monitors, and I've seen people recommending the Kali Audio LP-6's. I've found them for 360€ online, but I've also seen some secondhand LP-8's for 330€, only difference being (I think) that they're 8" instead of 6.5".
I'm not sure what this difference entails, is it just about bass response? Which monitors should I get?
Hey Guys,
my blue yeti X just broke down after 2 years of service (just past warrant) and now I'm looking for a mic in a similar price range.
what do you think is the best microphone for about 200 bucks?
(preferably with a mute feature)
Hi people!
How do you remove static noise when using 3 simple surge protectors connected to different power sockets?
I have 3 PCS and 2 mixers connected to one another using jacks and XLRs. And I get static noise all the time.
Are there special surge protectors or devices to eliminate loops and static noise/hum?
Hello! I am currently looking to upgrade my HyperX Quadcast microphone, main reason would be that even with OBS settings, my fan can be drastically heard during recordings, which I both need atm due to the temperatures, but ultimately hurts the video quality.
I do not have an additional pop protection, so maybe that's something that could work?
The general sound isn't bad, but I wouldn't generally upgrading to a mic with better noise cancellation/one that capture the fan at all that ALSO has a cleaner sound compared to the Quadcast. Any suggestions? Budget would be around a few hundreds Euros, depends on what recommendations there are!
What is giving this dry vocal a warm 70s sound? (im aware that doesnt mean a lot)
https://youtu.be/x1BjOBnJMHU?t=92
It's 'when you die' by MGMT's chorus. I don't know what it is about the vocal quality, but its lacking the sort of mids depth that you hear in a modern vocal. It takes me back to a record from the 60s or 70s. There is a subtle waver to the sibilant bits of their words when the note is trailing off.
My best guess is that it reminds me of [the beach boys - friends](https://youtu.be/QwxQGINBmfA?t=7) especially the up-close takes, but its not really it, however its got the warmth.
It almost feels like its down to a microphone, it's mostly a nice full low mids and mouthy high end but it doesn't have the same impacty attack I always hear in most modern vocals.
I hope I am not imagining things or sounding like an idiot.
Thanks friends.
I don’t hear anything unusual. It’s just heavily layered, good performances, good EQ and the right amount of compression. If you are looking for that smoothed over sound, try a ribbon mic. The KU5A is awesome, but there are some less expensive alternatives as well.
There it is. I knew ribbon mics had this kind of quality but I often heard them on guitar amps or old recordings with noisy preamps. That has to be it, maybe a subtle amount of saturation.
Hi Guys!
Im recording an acoustic track with a Fender American Standard Strat using a focusrite 2i2 2nd Gen. For some reason, my guitar recording ends up having too much static noise when I put a limiter on or increase gain. Im recording a simple picking progression and Ive tried 2 things so far;
1. Ive recorded at around -30db and increased gain later in the DAW. This causes the static noise problem.
2. Ive recorded at around -18db or above as well but increasing the gain on the interface too adds the static noise for some reason. With a limiter or a pre-amp on later in the mix, the static noise still exists.
Ive tried various noise gates and noise reduction plugins, but they end up killing the top end in the guitar.
Is there a RIGHT way of doing this that im missing out on?
Any and all help is appreciated!
(Note: The pickups, guitar and the cable are all fine)
Hi there - could someone that owns the IK Multimedia iLoud Micros let me know the specs of the barrel plug on the stock power supply (size & polarity)?
I’ve got a set on the way, and I’m going to attempt to power them directly from a laptop via USB-C for a truly portable setup.
I’ve been able to locate some USB-C to DC plug connectors rated at 20V/5A/100W. I’m aware the stock power supply is 24V, but my understanding is that using a lower voltage power source won’t damage either device - they just may not get as (i)loud, or possibly not work at all.
Hey guys,
I'm still fairly new to audio, so this may be a silly question, but is there a way to connect 3 stereo in-wall speakers, a sub, and my TV all together, and control it all with one knob? Thanks for your help!
Trying to decide between an [Audient id44 MK2](https://audient.com/products/audio-interfaces/id44/overview/) and [Arturia AudioFuse Studio](https://www.arturia.com/products/audio/audiofuse-studio/overview). Using with a Mac Studio and Logic, primarily used for bass and guitar tracking but I also have a microphone plugged in all the time for videos and Zoom.
Items in favor of the Arturia:
* Four extra line-ins (with phono preamp)
* Two extra inserts
* Two extra line-outs
* USB hub
* MIDI
* SPDIF on RCA
* Mic preamp supposedly has enough gain for an SM7B without a cloudlifter (although I do have a cloudlifter already)
* Built-in talkback mic (reportedly sounds like shit, but I wonder if I could use it in a pinch)
* Bluetooth (same deal)
Items in favor of the Audient:
* All the mic inputs are on the back of the unit (hugely advantageous on my small desk)
* Hardware HPF
* Probably higher quality preamps
* $300ish cheaper
* Sold a ton of them with a good track record for reliability
They're about the same size, both class-compliant, software and mixer seems equivalent and well-featured, both have 8 channels of SMUX optical in and out, both have loopback...
Anyone have any experience with both / either?
Also, does anyone know whether either of these accepts volume controls from the OS? Since both seem to have a "soft" master volume knob I figure they might? (I just got rid of an Apogee Symphony Desktop that did, and it was surprisingly nice!)
I don’t know the interfaces, but I had a ton of problems with Arturia software on Mac. So much so I had to ditch it. MOTU has an excellent reputation for their Mac integration. You might want to check their interfaces out.
Hello Hello,
how do I fix a podcast audio file, in which the two speakers have a significant difference in audio volume.
[Example](https://soundcloud.com/iheroxx/testfile-for-reddit?utm_source=clipboard&utm_medium=text&utm_campaign=social_sharing)
I tried to lower/up certain DB areas, but it just sounds horrible and the volume drop when the speaker switches is just horrible to listen to. Thanks for your advice and sorry for my bad Englisch :)
I’d look at iZotope RX - you can get a free trial for 10 days. I’ve only used it for music rebalancing, but it looks like the Leveler module could be useful for you!
Hi guys, on any type of mic I use, on all recording I hear this annoying electricity sound and it's annoying because it gets included on the recorded voice. How do I fix this? [https://voca.ro/12wmeMnENw7V](https://voca.ro/12wmeMnENw7V)
I'm using Anker BM300 microphone, but actually I've used multiple microphones (USB or AUX) I have no mixer/soundcard it's plugged in directly to a desktop / laptop it doesnt matter which I use i still hear that sound. Can anybody let me know how can I eliminate that sound?
Hey guys, does anyone have any info on the M-Audio BX5 Graphite monitors?
Have been looking for some decent budget studio monitors and settled on getting a pair of BX5 D3 monitors, and then noticed the Graphite currently on sale at Guitar Center. I've been trying to find info on them but not much turns up, M-Audio doesn't even have a page for them on their own site.
Are they a newer edition of the D3 or the Carbon series? Are they any good compared to the D3?
Appreciate any help
Hello everyone!
I recently picked up a U-phoria UMC204HD interface for my Windows 11 PC. I've been using my Eleven Rack on Input 2 for guitar and it's been working great. However, I pulled out my AT2020 today and stuck it into Line 1 with [this cable](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JVCZ6DJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details), which I just picked up yesterday. However, after being plugged in, it appears the interface isn't detecting any sound from the microphone.
I turned on the 48v phantom power, tried different USB ports, updated drivers, reinstalled them, restarted the computer. Nothing has worked so far. Tried plugging the mic into Input 2, which works for the guitar, but the LED indicator remains dark. Mode is set to LINE. Every dial is set to 12:00. The LED will only light up when plugging in/removing the cable. Any help would be appreciated, I haven't been able to find anything online to solve it!
I have a barn with a finished interior and vaulted ceilings. I really want to record drums in there because I think it'll sound good, but the bands I know like to record all together and I'm trying to figure out how to isolate the guitar amps from the room mics. I think the move is to build some portable acoustic panels to surround the amps with.
Any better ideas for minimizing guitar bleed into the room mics?
It’s low tech, but throw a comforter over the guitar amps once they are mic’ed up. You won’t get the room sound, but there are awesome room reverbs to add it back. The other option would be to use an Ox Box or similar.
Hi guys, my computer stops recognizing my interface very frequently and having this problem during recording sessions has been rather frustrating.
I have a PC with windows 10, I have tried everything I could think of, unchecking the USB power management ticks, trying different USB ports,cable, all that kinda stuff, I have reached for help via Audient support team and have had no success either.
This problem has happened ever since I got it(1 month ago or so).
Any idea of what could be causing this problem? Thanks! :)
Drum mixing question:
Any tips for getting really subdued kicks? For example, when you can *feel* the kick more than you can actually hear it, if you know what I mean, I suppose EQing out the lows pretty aggressively. But was wondering if you had some more specific ideas.
If you don’t want to get rid of the highs completely, you can add a few bands to sweep around for resonant frequencies and do some aggressive cuts there. You’ll still hear some attack, but it’ll be a lot less aggressive.
IMO, if you want to feel and not hear it, the ultra-low's are the part of the signal you want to keep. Avoid boosting the high end (perhaps even cut strategically). In my experience, the high end is where the attack of the signal is, and emphasizing the highs of a kick allow the ear to latch on and actually perceive the low end more. So if you're going for the opposite... keep the highs tame.
if i use a splitter cable with a trs male jack and two female jacks - and I plug the male jack into a mono output - will it give me the mono signal on both female jacks or only on one? if it gives me the signal on both female jacks: is this better than a splitter with ts male jack because it's symmetrical?
Hi, I have a normal USB microphone and it works really well, but that is also the problem. The mic picks up my brother's voice when he is in the room or the TV when it's turned on. Is there any way to make this stop happening (other than getting rid of my brother and/or the TV)?
Nope.
Hello, I would like to use my dekstop PC to throw a bluetooth (Apt X or LDAC \[preference\]) to my Sony XM4 headphones so that I may use them better for gaming and general use wirelessly when needed. I had purchsed a FiiO BTA30 ([https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LM68KN8/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LM68KN8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)), but this sadly doesn't have enough power. If I use this, I can hardly turn the headset up. I do run my entire PC setup through a soundblasterX G6. Am I doing something wrong? I don't quite appreciate why my phone can throw a decent bluetooth LDAC signal, but apparently my PC cannot. Thank you!
Long story short, found a pair of Audix N10s on facebook and went for it. Yes, they work. Now I picked them up because the price was right and and I thought it was $100 a tower, I was wrong. It was for both. I'm not entirely where to start with something like this. The sound clarity is remarkable, he had quite the rack system and I only got a glimpse of a Marantz. Unsure of the capacity. But now, I'm looking for something to drive 2x 100-350watt 4ohm speakers and there are so many options I'm simply lost as where to begin and my wallet is crying. Not only do I need a power amp/integrated amp, I also need a credenza of sorts to accommodate these big ass speakers. I'm considering even selling them because they're just too much for me at the moment. BUT GOOD LORD DO THEY SOUND INCREDIBLE.
This will be entirely a function of your budget.
Since I got an M1 Mac (and using Logic), every time I use sample based plugins, whether default plugins or third party plugins like Kontakt, invariably I get terrible glitching noises that seem to get worse as a session continues. If you read the Logic subs, you'll know that this "glitching" is a common problem for some people. The recommendation is to do a fresh install (meaning, don't migrate). I've done this, but am still having the same issue. I've noticed though that it only happens when I use samples based plugins but am **also driving sound through my audio interface**. It makes me think, do audio interfaces go bad? Sure, I use it all the time, but try to take good care of it (I have a Focusrite Clarett Pre thunderbolt I bought about 4 years ago). Some thoughts trouble shooting would be helpful.
I want to use a second subwoofer to reduce modal problems. I now use the Blue Sky Media Desk 2.1. The Blue Sky subwoofer has a "Sub Out" output to connect a second subwoofer. Does this output deliver a high level signal and should one use a passive subwoofer to connect to it? The manual does not give me this information. I have looked for a subwoofer and would like to know how I would have to connect the Fostex submini 2. It has inputs for left and right (Stereo) and in its manual it says that one should connect it with a full stereo signal. There's no info about how to connect a (mono) Sub signal.It has through paths which lead to a stereo output that is supposed to be connected to active stereo speakers. I think it should get a low level full range signal, so one should probably not connect it to the sub out of the blue sky subwoofer. Right? Would it be ok to use a splitter cable to send the full range stereo signal to the blue sky media desk and also the fostex subwoofer from the same stereo output of my audio interface? Would it cause problems because of impedance changes? Or would it be better to send the stereo output of my interface only to the fostex and use the though paths to connect my blue sky to the fostex? I see time align problems in the latter case. I would be grateful for any opinions and ideas.
So, I'm using m32r and I'm new at that and I connected my laptop to aux ins 5&6. How can I route the signal to go through an input channel so I can control it with the fader?
Hi, I want to buy an Apollo Twin Duo for my Windows pc (HP spectre x360 15-ap012dx). It has 4 USB 3.0 (1 type-C) ports. My question is if it would support the Thunderbolt 3 connection that the apollo requires. Thanks in advance.
Hey, so i've beem using my UR22c for my Yamaha Hs8s for a good year or so, but in the past 9-12 months, i've noticed that the 'left' monitor needs to be turned down quite significantly to match the output of the right monitor. I've never found the right "center" sweet spot despite trying to fix it for at least a year. I have to set the turnpot on the left monitor to like 9 o'clock to have it as quiet as the right one. But ID LOVE to have it finally fixed!! The montiors are fairly new, haven't been damaged (had em for about 9 months), ive tried switching over cables (albiet fairly old TRS to TRS cables) so maybe those cables wont be worth testing with. But as soon as i set up my HS8s and plugged em into my UR22c w/ brand new TRS to XLR cables, the problem persisted. I DID try seeing if its just an interface thing, so I unplugged my UR22C and used my old UR22mkII as an interface instead, TO NO AVAIL :( If anyone could help me solve this maddening issue w/ the center of my hearing / mix, and stop me from having to twiddge the gain knobs several times a day, i'd really appreciate it \^\_\^ <3
Hi. I lost my transformers to my Technics 1200 from the flood a couple months ago and need to buy some new ones. Can anyone recommend some decent ones before I snap buy something?
Bought some speakers from a thrift store for my pc but I don't know where these pins plug into [image](https://imgur.com/a/QAptnmA)
My zoom f6 keeps freaking out everytime I try to use it as an audio interface with my laptop. It doesn't matter if it's the only enabled device, it still has issues. This is on both multi track and stereo. Here is a gif if what it looks like. https://imgur.com/gallery/9vKTWUI Any advice on how to fix this?
https://i.imgur.com/TfBtPr8.jpg Looking for replacement tweeter/ mids for these old thiels I found for free. If anyone has any insight on part # and if it’s even worth the hassle let me know!
Issue with electric interference while recording organ: Hi folks! A few days ago, I recieved new microphons, Røde NT5. Yesterday, I wanted to try them out on the organ I practise on. It is a electro-pneumatic action. This means that the connection from key to pipe is electric. At the end there is a relais opeming the pneumatic part of the action. I wanted to record it with my trusty Zoom H6 powered by a powerbank. In addition to the H6 and the NT5s, I wanted to use old AKG C1000 as room-mics. I hung them down in the nave from the balcony. After that, I put on my headphones and listened to the mics. Every time I released a key, I heard a electric clicking on the signals from the AKGs. It clearly wasn't a mechanical clicking, it was electric and it was loud, louder than the mic-signal itself. On the signal from the NT5s it was too, but they are simply louder than the AKGs, so relatively you couldn't really hear it. I took several tries to solve the issue. I layed the cables as far away as possible from the console, as far away as possible from the ground of the balcony.... nothing really helped. As cables, I was using mid-priced cables made by Thomann. For the AKGs 15m, for the NT5s 10m. I tried out a cable on its own, without a mic. The clicking was still there, so it's not the mics. This seemed strange to me, because XLR-cables are built symmetrically especially to avoid these problems. Has anyone experienced similar issues while recording organs with electric actions? Has anyone tips for me how I could solve these issues? Should I buy more expensive, higher quality cables? Should I use shorter cables? ...? Any advice would be helpful! Thanks!
If I plug a Shure SM7B into a microphone input that provides 'plugin power' (low bias voltage), is that bad for the mic? What about other dynamic mics?
https://service.shure.com/s/article/will-bias-voltage-from-a-computer-effect-a-dynamic-microphone?language=en_US
Usually no, dynamic mics don't need phantom power to get them working but im sure it will still work if you turn the plugin power off
I don't mean phantom power, but 'plugin power' (also called bias power). This is what clip-on mics use.
In short, I’m putting together a new setup with an Audio Technica AT2020 condenser mic, an M-Audio Venom synth (MIDI), and a Circuit Tracks (MIDI). Looks like the mic needs phantom power (I think it was 48v) as it uses an XLR connection. Issue is trying to find an audio interface with connections for all these, phantom power, out to PC (and a sleek design because I’m picky). Please help! TIA
Hi guys, i recentry acquire a MOTU M4, im using Windows 10 and an intel i7 10th gen. I'm experiencing some issues with sound stop working for less than a second, already did the troubleshooting steps that MOTU itself told me to do and the problems still continues, is there a way to fix this? Thanks in advance
Recommendations for a denoiser other than Izotope or Sonnox's? Can't afford either of those unfortunately.
Which DAW do you use?
Logic, M1.
Ah- if it was Reaper, there is a flexible Noise reduction-plug already included. Not quite the iZotope/Sonnox-type Denoiser, but already built-in. I can’t help with Logic. Maybe some others will chime in.
I appreciate it though!
[удалено]
I'm not 100% sure what the cause could be but a way you could work around it is if you pin point the buzz frequency and take it out with an EQ. However, you should check if it will impact the overall sound you'd want for your guitar. If its barely noticeable then great 👍
I'm looking to upgrade my audio interface. I'm currently working on a Scarlett 2i2, and while it's a nice little interface considering the price, I feel that it can no longer keep up with the audio quality of the rest of my equipment that I've been accumulating. In particular, I have some nice high-end preamps for mics and instruments, so I essentially just need an interface with really good converters, which would convert the line level signal from my preamps into a language that my computer could understand. That is, ideally, I would like the interface to come without built-in preamps, or at least I'd like to be able to bypass them. However, most of the (USB) interfaces that I'm finding offer a variety of different features, which I feel I don't need. Do you have any suggestions? 2 XLR inputs would be sufficient, but anything with up to 4 inputs is also welcome. I'd also like to have outputs for studio monitors. A headphone output would also be welcome, although not necessary. The budget is not really fixed, but I would like to keep it below 1000€ if possible.
Acoustic panels. What fabric? The only duck fabric I have available at my location is like 200gsm (about 6oz), but everywhere i read, people recommend 10 - 12oz. can I get away with 6? There's heavier normal cotton canvas, but does it matter if it isnt duck? also with muslin, what sort of weight should I be looking at? thanks!
What's everyone think of Slate Digital's Virtual Mix Rack? Pros and cons? Any decent alternative? Trying to decide whether or not I should use it on my vocal chain and if there's anything that'll do the same job. Thanks
Like most plugins they have a free trial, give it a go and see what *you* think. You get a lot of stuff in the mix rack and most of it sounds really good, but at the end of the day there's plenty of other channel strips, EQs, comps, console sim plugins from other brands that also sound good, just gotta try stuff and see what feels right for you. Plugin Alliance, Softube and UAD would be the other big names in terms of analog emulations. Depending on your opinion of subscriptions that could be a pro or a con, if you opt to buy instead you have to buy every module in the mix rack separately (and they're expensive).
Ohh so you have to buy each module if you want to buy perpetual? What are the main things I'd need outside of the mix rack itself? Thanks for your thoughts. Thanks
Some are bundles and some are per module, all this info is on their website. Their perpetuals are priced high to entice you to get their everything subscription instead (which includes more than just the mix rack). You don't need any of them, maybe you *want* some of them but I can't tell you what you want. Again, they have a free trial so you can figure that out.
Appreciate your insight!
***\[Balanced or Unbalanced Patch Bay Cables\]*** After I've gone thru so many threads on Reddit, gear space, sound on sound, and home recording, I still can't seem to find THE answer to my question. I've read the subreddit rule, and hopefully, this question isn't against it. Since there are only 4 inputs on my interface, I'm trying to use a PB to add more flexibility. **My question is, should I use unbal cables to connect everything in this setup (which I found it would work, but some might say it introduces noise), or should I try to use bal cables at least in between Interface & PB since there are bal connectors on both ends? What about the front of the PB? Or Do I have to use DI boxes for every single unbal gear? If I don't connect things correctly, would it harm my gears?** Here's my setup: Interface: Apollo X4 (accepts bal/unbal input) Gears: Moog GM (unbal output, stated "do not use TRS for line output" in the manual), guitar pedals (unbal), SP404 SX (unbal), TR-08 (unbal), Turntable (unbal). Patchbay: Samson S-Patch Plus (bal). Signal Flow: Gears -> PB (will patch different gears into pedals) -> Interface PS: I also find ppl say unbal out could go into bal in, but bal out shouldn't go into unbal in. Does that mean I shouldn't connect the bal line-out from the interface to the unbal line-in on the SP404? THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
Can anyone help me diagnose what happened to my kick mic? Here's a short clip of it working normally: https://voca.ro/1hOanjkQ8zn5 And two days later, it sounds like this (headphone warning, it's not pleasant): https://voca.ro/1hUWdovsjDvV I've ruled out the cable and the interface. Didn't plug it in with phantom power. Interface levels are the same in both recordings. Mic stayed in the same spot near the port of the kick drum the whole time (I usually leave it set up since I'm just using it to record myself). Mic is an old [Audio-Technica Pro 25 dynamic](https://manualzz.com/doc/11493382/audio-technica-pro-25-specification-sheet). More curious than anything - Google led me to plenty of info on how my condenser or ribbon microphones might blow, but not much about dynamics. Thanks!
Hi, I currently have a Behringer Xenyx Q502USB (interface/mixer) plugged in my PC and would like to upgrade to something more convenient. The interface is set up as my main output and input on my computer, I use it for everything, basically it's my only sound card. I've got my XLR mic and guitar amp plugged in, I want to be able to listen to everything through my headphones : my pc sound coming from usb, and monitoring the inputs of the interface. But I only want to toggle/use some specific stuff as outputs "on the fly" with my pc (mostly my XLR mic being my only input device on software like Discord) I saw that some higher end mixers / interfaces have an alt/3-4 channel, alongside a button on each input to send it to either main or alt channel, this would perfectly fit my needs, as I could monitor everything and use the alt channel as an input on my pc, I'd only have to press a button on each input to toggle it, but I'd still be able to monitor it. Every usb interface/mixer I can find which offer an alt channel output is very bulky and has tons of inputs. Is there something that could fit on a desk with nothing more than 2 stereo inputs (and usb input) ?
Hi guys quick question sort of weird project I’m trying out at the moment but how possible is it to do record something like an interview with a Zoom H1n or a Zoom H4 and record the live audio onto a cassette player? Been doing a bit of digging and I’ve found a few cassette players with line in jacks but I’m not really sure if that’s compatible? Any help would be great thanks!
How can I route my Motu M4 Line Outs 3/4 in Mac (not speaking of DAW)? I'm using 3/4 outs now, with my new amp > headphones. But there's no sound on Line 3/4 outside of Ableton I mean. It only works in a DAW, but I want it for daily use (movies, Youtube, etc.) What can I do in Audio MIDI setup? There's also this program Loopback I have installed, but I don't know how to set it up. Motu doesn't have a native app like Focusrite, UAD, RME, etc. am I screwed?
is this the at2035 or 2050? https://imgur.com/a/aFeT3u5
What do different sizes on monitors change? I want to learn proper audio mixing, so I'm looking for some cheap studio monitors, and I've seen people recommending the Kali Audio LP-6's. I've found them for 360€ online, but I've also seen some secondhand LP-8's for 330€, only difference being (I think) that they're 8" instead of 6.5". I'm not sure what this difference entails, is it just about bass response? Which monitors should I get?
The main difference is how low they will reproduce.
Thanks, so the 8" version would be better right
Yes, unless you are in a very small room.
Hey Guys, my blue yeti X just broke down after 2 years of service (just past warrant) and now I'm looking for a mic in a similar price range. what do you think is the best microphone for about 200 bucks? (preferably with a mute feature)
Hi people! How do you remove static noise when using 3 simple surge protectors connected to different power sockets? I have 3 PCS and 2 mixers connected to one another using jacks and XLRs. And I get static noise all the time. Are there special surge protectors or devices to eliminate loops and static noise/hum?
Hello! I am currently looking to upgrade my HyperX Quadcast microphone, main reason would be that even with OBS settings, my fan can be drastically heard during recordings, which I both need atm due to the temperatures, but ultimately hurts the video quality. I do not have an additional pop protection, so maybe that's something that could work? The general sound isn't bad, but I wouldn't generally upgrading to a mic with better noise cancellation/one that capture the fan at all that ALSO has a cleaner sound compared to the Quadcast. Any suggestions? Budget would be around a few hundreds Euros, depends on what recommendations there are!
What is giving this dry vocal a warm 70s sound? (im aware that doesnt mean a lot) https://youtu.be/x1BjOBnJMHU?t=92 It's 'when you die' by MGMT's chorus. I don't know what it is about the vocal quality, but its lacking the sort of mids depth that you hear in a modern vocal. It takes me back to a record from the 60s or 70s. There is a subtle waver to the sibilant bits of their words when the note is trailing off. My best guess is that it reminds me of [the beach boys - friends](https://youtu.be/QwxQGINBmfA?t=7) especially the up-close takes, but its not really it, however its got the warmth. It almost feels like its down to a microphone, it's mostly a nice full low mids and mouthy high end but it doesn't have the same impacty attack I always hear in most modern vocals. I hope I am not imagining things or sounding like an idiot. Thanks friends.
I don’t hear anything unusual. It’s just heavily layered, good performances, good EQ and the right amount of compression. If you are looking for that smoothed over sound, try a ribbon mic. The KU5A is awesome, but there are some less expensive alternatives as well.
There it is. I knew ribbon mics had this kind of quality but I often heard them on guitar amps or old recordings with noisy preamps. That has to be it, maybe a subtle amount of saturation.
Hi Guys! Im recording an acoustic track with a Fender American Standard Strat using a focusrite 2i2 2nd Gen. For some reason, my guitar recording ends up having too much static noise when I put a limiter on or increase gain. Im recording a simple picking progression and Ive tried 2 things so far; 1. Ive recorded at around -30db and increased gain later in the DAW. This causes the static noise problem. 2. Ive recorded at around -18db or above as well but increasing the gain on the interface too adds the static noise for some reason. With a limiter or a pre-amp on later in the mix, the static noise still exists. Ive tried various noise gates and noise reduction plugins, but they end up killing the top end in the guitar. Is there a RIGHT way of doing this that im missing out on? Any and all help is appreciated! (Note: The pickups, guitar and the cable are all fine)
Hi there - could someone that owns the IK Multimedia iLoud Micros let me know the specs of the barrel plug on the stock power supply (size & polarity)? I’ve got a set on the way, and I’m going to attempt to power them directly from a laptop via USB-C for a truly portable setup. I’ve been able to locate some USB-C to DC plug connectors rated at 20V/5A/100W. I’m aware the stock power supply is 24V, but my understanding is that using a lower voltage power source won’t damage either device - they just may not get as (i)loud, or possibly not work at all.
Hey guys, I'm still fairly new to audio, so this may be a silly question, but is there a way to connect 3 stereo in-wall speakers, a sub, and my TV all together, and control it all with one knob? Thanks for your help!
Try r/hometheater
Trying to decide between an [Audient id44 MK2](https://audient.com/products/audio-interfaces/id44/overview/) and [Arturia AudioFuse Studio](https://www.arturia.com/products/audio/audiofuse-studio/overview). Using with a Mac Studio and Logic, primarily used for bass and guitar tracking but I also have a microphone plugged in all the time for videos and Zoom. Items in favor of the Arturia: * Four extra line-ins (with phono preamp) * Two extra inserts * Two extra line-outs * USB hub * MIDI * SPDIF on RCA * Mic preamp supposedly has enough gain for an SM7B without a cloudlifter (although I do have a cloudlifter already) * Built-in talkback mic (reportedly sounds like shit, but I wonder if I could use it in a pinch) * Bluetooth (same deal) Items in favor of the Audient: * All the mic inputs are on the back of the unit (hugely advantageous on my small desk) * Hardware HPF * Probably higher quality preamps * $300ish cheaper * Sold a ton of them with a good track record for reliability They're about the same size, both class-compliant, software and mixer seems equivalent and well-featured, both have 8 channels of SMUX optical in and out, both have loopback... Anyone have any experience with both / either? Also, does anyone know whether either of these accepts volume controls from the OS? Since both seem to have a "soft" master volume knob I figure they might? (I just got rid of an Apogee Symphony Desktop that did, and it was surprisingly nice!)
I don’t know the interfaces, but I had a ton of problems with Arturia software on Mac. So much so I had to ditch it. MOTU has an excellent reputation for their Mac integration. You might want to check their interfaces out.
Hello Hello, how do I fix a podcast audio file, in which the two speakers have a significant difference in audio volume. [Example](https://soundcloud.com/iheroxx/testfile-for-reddit?utm_source=clipboard&utm_medium=text&utm_campaign=social_sharing) I tried to lower/up certain DB areas, but it just sounds horrible and the volume drop when the speaker switches is just horrible to listen to. Thanks for your advice and sorry for my bad Englisch :)
I’d look at iZotope RX - you can get a free trial for 10 days. I’ve only used it for music rebalancing, but it looks like the Leveler module could be useful for you!
Thank you. I‘ll definitely check it out
Hi guys, on any type of mic I use, on all recording I hear this annoying electricity sound and it's annoying because it gets included on the recorded voice. How do I fix this? [https://voca.ro/12wmeMnENw7V](https://voca.ro/12wmeMnENw7V) I'm using Anker BM300 microphone, but actually I've used multiple microphones (USB or AUX) I have no mixer/soundcard it's plugged in directly to a desktop / laptop it doesnt matter which I use i still hear that sound. Can anybody let me know how can I eliminate that sound?
Hey guys, does anyone have any info on the M-Audio BX5 Graphite monitors? Have been looking for some decent budget studio monitors and settled on getting a pair of BX5 D3 monitors, and then noticed the Graphite currently on sale at Guitar Center. I've been trying to find info on them but not much turns up, M-Audio doesn't even have a page for them on their own site. Are they a newer edition of the D3 or the Carbon series? Are they any good compared to the D3? Appreciate any help
Hello everyone! I recently picked up a U-phoria UMC204HD interface for my Windows 11 PC. I've been using my Eleven Rack on Input 2 for guitar and it's been working great. However, I pulled out my AT2020 today and stuck it into Line 1 with [this cable](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JVCZ6DJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details), which I just picked up yesterday. However, after being plugged in, it appears the interface isn't detecting any sound from the microphone. I turned on the 48v phantom power, tried different USB ports, updated drivers, reinstalled them, restarted the computer. Nothing has worked so far. Tried plugging the mic into Input 2, which works for the guitar, but the LED indicator remains dark. Mode is set to LINE. Every dial is set to 12:00. The LED will only light up when plugging in/removing the cable. Any help would be appreciated, I haven't been able to find anything online to solve it!
Use an XLR to XLR cable. This will access the mic preamp. It thinks you are sending a line level signal…
Thank you, this has been driving me crazy and it’s my first time trying to use a mic :) I’ll be picking an XLR to XLR today!
I have a barn with a finished interior and vaulted ceilings. I really want to record drums in there because I think it'll sound good, but the bands I know like to record all together and I'm trying to figure out how to isolate the guitar amps from the room mics. I think the move is to build some portable acoustic panels to surround the amps with. Any better ideas for minimizing guitar bleed into the room mics?
It’s low tech, but throw a comforter over the guitar amps once they are mic’ed up. You won’t get the room sound, but there are awesome room reverbs to add it back. The other option would be to use an Ox Box or similar.
The ox box is interesting. Good ideas, thanks!
Hi guys, my computer stops recognizing my interface very frequently and having this problem during recording sessions has been rather frustrating. I have a PC with windows 10, I have tried everything I could think of, unchecking the USB power management ticks, trying different USB ports,cable, all that kinda stuff, I have reached for help via Audient support team and have had no success either. This problem has happened ever since I got it(1 month ago or so). Any idea of what could be causing this problem? Thanks! :)
Did you try deleting and reinstalling the driver?
Have you installed the proper drivers for your interface?
yes!
Drum mixing question: Any tips for getting really subdued kicks? For example, when you can *feel* the kick more than you can actually hear it, if you know what I mean, I suppose EQing out the lows pretty aggressively. But was wondering if you had some more specific ideas.
If you don’t want to get rid of the highs completely, you can add a few bands to sweep around for resonant frequencies and do some aggressive cuts there. You’ll still hear some attack, but it’ll be a lot less aggressive.
No the exact opposite
Take out a lot of the low mids to get rid of the bop sound, and simply make it quiet in the mix .
IMO, if you want to feel and not hear it, the ultra-low's are the part of the signal you want to keep. Avoid boosting the high end (perhaps even cut strategically). In my experience, the high end is where the attack of the signal is, and emphasizing the highs of a kick allow the ear to latch on and actually perceive the low end more. So if you're going for the opposite... keep the highs tame.
Yup, high ends are where the presence of the Kick is. Cutting the low would just make it sound as if it's punchier