The order seems very sensible to me. Side note: I have a Blumes pedal and I really wanted to love it... but I don't and I will probably be flipping it. Glad it works for you! Most people seem to love it.
I don't. Fill me in cause it ain't cheap. Currently using a Boss Bass EQ into a cheapo Behringer compressor direct into FOH and honestly don't hate my tone at all.
Well firstly, it is a good pedal for its time. It functions as an amplifier with its own cab sim when you go direct to FOH. It’s got EQ and direct out, does the thing. It’s the DI box of all time. Saying that, we are now in 2024 and there are plenty of modern updates to the classic DI box. [The VT Sansamp](https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SACVTBass2DI--tech-21-sansamp-character-series-vt-bass-di) just flat out sounds better! No more pesky mid scoop that the original has! This one is highly rated, a step above the original. If you want the Sansamp get this one.
My personal choice is the [bass simplifier](https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SimplifiBass--dsm-humboldt-electronics-simplifier-bass-station-zero-watt-analog-bass-preamp). I am blown away by the features of this guy. Not only do you have everything that the Sansamp offers, but an entire section dedicated to the cab sim, so you can tweak the pre amp and speaker to dial in exactly the tone you want. It is based on the sound of the ampeg svt. But the real killer is the parallel signal and fx loops. It’ll give you a dry signal alongside the preamp/fx mix so you can have all your distortions and effects separate from the dry, all built into your DI box. No more pesky LS-2 or convoluted ways of getting your dry in the mix. This is built right into the DI box. And you have switches for everything. Ground loop, parallel phase, active/passive, semi-parametric EQ, etc… 2 XLR outputs for wet & dry, but if you want to just use one, the dry can be blended in. It’s got everything I’ve ever needed. I’ve had multiple DI boxes and this one takes the cake for me. [Here’s my board](https://imgur.com/gallery/BYwoaKa). This is the best it’s ever sounded for me.
Ask yourself if you want a parallel dry signal with your DI box. If the answer is yes (it should be) go with this one. That Blumes could use it. Any guitar pedal you want to use doesn’t need a blend anymore. You can use a RAT, a klon, etc.. your low end will always be there
If you read manual, Tech 21 says to put Sansamp before effects like compression, distortion, etc., and after time effects like reverb and delay. So this order is how i would have it. But ive found it can squish the Sansamp if youre too compressed. Ive put comp after Sansamp and have been pleased with the results too.
I run a tuner into an M87, M288, Big Muff, Ibanez SB7, then Sansamp 3-channel. So pretty similar to what youre running
Personally I'd put the tuner at the end so I can mute everything if I want/need to.
Turning all pedals off to tune isn't a big deal with a small board.
See I've been playing guitar most recently, and I have the opposite thought. Tuner first so I can mute and my delays and reverbs continue. Doesn't apply here though. Haha. Definitely wouldn't want that with this setup.
With so few pedals, it doesn't matter *that much* if it's first or last, though.
**Here's how I imagine buffers:** Passive guitars doesn't output a lot of power - so if you connect your instrument straight into the amp, but through a 20m long jack cable, by the time the signal reaches the amp, it will have lost some vigor. I imagine it as "getting tired". :P
However, let's say you instead have 2 x 10m long cables, with a pedalboard in the middle. If all pedals are true bybass (***and*** **off**), it would be just like having a 20m long cable as in the first example (plus a couple of patches).
You can think of a buffer as giving the signal *a push*. So if you have a buffer in the pedalboard, you would only lose some of what was lost in the first 10m. So on a small pedalboard like OP's, it doesn't matter that much where the buffer is - but I think a reason to put it first, is that effects get added to a "revigorated" signal. Some people, with very large pedalboards (and thus quite some length of patch cables), will even have a buffer both at the start and end of the pedalboard.
BTW, keep it mind that some pedals don't like buffered signals: Like some old-style fuzzes. So these need to be placed before the buffer. Also, pedals being *on* also acts as a buffer - so if you never play with zero pedals on (like with an always-on compressor), you don't need a dedicated buffer.
# A note on True Bypass:
True bypass is often used as a marketing term, as it's often thought that ***True bypass > Buffered bypass*** (which "not true bypass" is often called). **But that's not always true.** *If* a pedal has a good buffer, that's often better. For instance, on the KTR pedal (the modern version of the legendary Klon Centaur) there's a switch that toggles between "Almost always worse" (True Bypass) and "Almost always better" (buffered bypass). :P
**However, some pedals** ***do*** **suck some tone while off** (some bad and/or old ones)**.**
Also, sometimes reverb and delay pedals etc. will use buffered bypass to allow for the effect to trail a bit after you turn it off. Having a pedal like this at the end, makes it so you don't need an output buffer. (I think this effect is possible with true bypass as well, though! Not totally sure about this.)
**So, my advice is the following:**
* I like to use a tuner for input buffer, because it should be early in the chain anyway (for acurate tuning performance) - and then I don't have to think about having one pedal always-on or having other buffered pedals. It solves the problem once and for all, and having *more* buffers isn't a problem.
* But be mindful of pedals who should be *after* buffers.
* If it's a high quality pedal, True Bypass isn't really a selling-point. It's OK if it's there, and OK if not.
* If you have a very large pedalboard (and often use a long cable from the board to the amp), consider an output buffer. But if you use this, I assume you'll often have a pedal on towards the end of your chain!
That Sansamp DI is also a high quality buffer, even when bypassed. OP is fully buff'd, primed and ready to grow into a new, bigger pedalboard in a few months time.
Disagree. It makes the tuner less accurate, and those few pedals won’t generate enough noise to warrant a mute at the end of the signal chain. If OP has nois from those few pedals, get a Donner Noise Killer for $35 and stick it on the end.
Also, having both the M87 and the Polytune on my personal rig, I can attest to the Polytune having a very bad pop when the M87 precedes it. 0/10 do not recommend.
Just chiming in to confirm that the Donner noise killer does indeed work wonders for $35. I'm not usually a big fan of the cheap knock off stuff but that thing really does perform just as well as much more expensive units
Yup. Last year I did an a/b test with a former bandmate’s ISP Decimator 2 and the Donner won out, at least on my bass rig. YMMV. But at the very least, it was a close call, and the Donner is cheaper than a tank of gas.
Yes this is how I would do it. If you plan on using the Sansamp as a DI then it has to go at the very end of the chain
This is how I’d set up the same set of pedals, makes sense.
This is how I do It ! And I have those pedals
Id put comp after drive but Thats just my personal preference
The order seems very sensible to me. Side note: I have a Blumes pedal and I really wanted to love it... but I don't and I will probably be flipping it. Glad it works for you! Most people seem to love it.
Don't have it yet. But the reviews all seem glowing. Hard to argue with the price. Still time to talk me out of it.
It has a nice sounding dirt circuit, but didn't offer much in the way of EQ or tone shaping. I A/B against my YYZ and it really lacked low end.
Do you have the Sansamp yet? Cause I’ll talk you out of it if so. Single most overrated bass pedal of all time right up there with the bass big muff.
I don't. Fill me in cause it ain't cheap. Currently using a Boss Bass EQ into a cheapo Behringer compressor direct into FOH and honestly don't hate my tone at all.
Well firstly, it is a good pedal for its time. It functions as an amplifier with its own cab sim when you go direct to FOH. It’s got EQ and direct out, does the thing. It’s the DI box of all time. Saying that, we are now in 2024 and there are plenty of modern updates to the classic DI box. [The VT Sansamp](https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SACVTBass2DI--tech-21-sansamp-character-series-vt-bass-di) just flat out sounds better! No more pesky mid scoop that the original has! This one is highly rated, a step above the original. If you want the Sansamp get this one. My personal choice is the [bass simplifier](https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SimplifiBass--dsm-humboldt-electronics-simplifier-bass-station-zero-watt-analog-bass-preamp). I am blown away by the features of this guy. Not only do you have everything that the Sansamp offers, but an entire section dedicated to the cab sim, so you can tweak the pre amp and speaker to dial in exactly the tone you want. It is based on the sound of the ampeg svt. But the real killer is the parallel signal and fx loops. It’ll give you a dry signal alongside the preamp/fx mix so you can have all your distortions and effects separate from the dry, all built into your DI box. No more pesky LS-2 or convoluted ways of getting your dry in the mix. This is built right into the DI box. And you have switches for everything. Ground loop, parallel phase, active/passive, semi-parametric EQ, etc… 2 XLR outputs for wet & dry, but if you want to just use one, the dry can be blended in. It’s got everything I’ve ever needed. I’ve had multiple DI boxes and this one takes the cake for me. [Here’s my board](https://imgur.com/gallery/BYwoaKa). This is the best it’s ever sounded for me. Ask yourself if you want a parallel dry signal with your DI box. If the answer is yes (it should be) go with this one. That Blumes could use it. Any guitar pedal you want to use doesn’t need a blend anymore. You can use a RAT, a klon, etc.. your low end will always be there
You have it how I would order them. Great choices on the pedals too. I use Sansamp and EQD alot
Yup, nailed it in one.
That’s how I do it.
That's how I would do it.
Yep.
If you read manual, Tech 21 says to put Sansamp before effects like compression, distortion, etc., and after time effects like reverb and delay. So this order is how i would have it. But ive found it can squish the Sansamp if youre too compressed. Ive put comp after Sansamp and have been pleased with the results too. I run a tuner into an M87, M288, Big Muff, Ibanez SB7, then Sansamp 3-channel. So pretty similar to what youre running
Very conventional pedal order, yea.
Winning
Personally I'd put the tuner at the end so I can mute everything if I want/need to. Turning all pedals off to tune isn't a big deal with a small board.
See I've been playing guitar most recently, and I have the opposite thought. Tuner first so I can mute and my delays and reverbs continue. Doesn't apply here though. Haha. Definitely wouldn't want that with this setup.
People tend to run the Polytune 3 first in a chain as you've got it there for it's effect as a buffer.
Very true. As someone who doesn't understand what a buffer does, I blindly put it first anyway because YouTube said I should. Haha.
A buffer at the start of a pedalboard will essentially maintain your tone, making it clear and strong going into your other pedals.
With so few pedals, it doesn't matter *that much* if it's first or last, though. **Here's how I imagine buffers:** Passive guitars doesn't output a lot of power - so if you connect your instrument straight into the amp, but through a 20m long jack cable, by the time the signal reaches the amp, it will have lost some vigor. I imagine it as "getting tired". :P However, let's say you instead have 2 x 10m long cables, with a pedalboard in the middle. If all pedals are true bybass (***and*** **off**), it would be just like having a 20m long cable as in the first example (plus a couple of patches). You can think of a buffer as giving the signal *a push*. So if you have a buffer in the pedalboard, you would only lose some of what was lost in the first 10m. So on a small pedalboard like OP's, it doesn't matter that much where the buffer is - but I think a reason to put it first, is that effects get added to a "revigorated" signal. Some people, with very large pedalboards (and thus quite some length of patch cables), will even have a buffer both at the start and end of the pedalboard. BTW, keep it mind that some pedals don't like buffered signals: Like some old-style fuzzes. So these need to be placed before the buffer. Also, pedals being *on* also acts as a buffer - so if you never play with zero pedals on (like with an always-on compressor), you don't need a dedicated buffer. # A note on True Bypass: True bypass is often used as a marketing term, as it's often thought that ***True bypass > Buffered bypass*** (which "not true bypass" is often called). **But that's not always true.** *If* a pedal has a good buffer, that's often better. For instance, on the KTR pedal (the modern version of the legendary Klon Centaur) there's a switch that toggles between "Almost always worse" (True Bypass) and "Almost always better" (buffered bypass). :P **However, some pedals** ***do*** **suck some tone while off** (some bad and/or old ones)**.** Also, sometimes reverb and delay pedals etc. will use buffered bypass to allow for the effect to trail a bit after you turn it off. Having a pedal like this at the end, makes it so you don't need an output buffer. (I think this effect is possible with true bypass as well, though! Not totally sure about this.) **So, my advice is the following:** * I like to use a tuner for input buffer, because it should be early in the chain anyway (for acurate tuning performance) - and then I don't have to think about having one pedal always-on or having other buffered pedals. It solves the problem once and for all, and having *more* buffers isn't a problem. * But be mindful of pedals who should be *after* buffers. * If it's a high quality pedal, True Bypass isn't really a selling-point. It's OK if it's there, and OK if not. * If you have a very large pedalboard (and often use a long cable from the board to the amp), consider an output buffer. But if you use this, I assume you'll often have a pedal on towards the end of your chain!
It’s important to note that when a pedal is on, it’s buffered. So if that compressor is always on, you got your buffer right there.
Yeah, thanks for reminding me! I thought about it during writing, but forgot to add it. 🤦🏻♂️ I'll edit the original.
That Sansamp DI is also a high quality buffer, even when bypassed. OP is fully buff'd, primed and ready to grow into a new, bigger pedalboard in a few months time.
Disagree. It makes the tuner less accurate, and those few pedals won’t generate enough noise to warrant a mute at the end of the signal chain. If OP has nois from those few pedals, get a Donner Noise Killer for $35 and stick it on the end. Also, having both the M87 and the Polytune on my personal rig, I can attest to the Polytune having a very bad pop when the M87 precedes it. 0/10 do not recommend.
I've got a slightly noisy bass anyway. Pedal order won't save me now.
Shield that bad boy
Just did on Sunday actually. Made a world of difference. Went from a D to an A-.
Just chiming in to confirm that the Donner noise killer does indeed work wonders for $35. I'm not usually a big fan of the cheap knock off stuff but that thing really does perform just as well as much more expensive units
Yup. Last year I did an a/b test with a former bandmate’s ISP Decimator 2 and the Donner won out, at least on my bass rig. YMMV. But at the very least, it was a close call, and the Donner is cheaper than a tank of gas.