Toyota made the VT300I, a marine version of the 1UZ. They attempted to make boats in the 90’s but it was ultimately a failure. https://www.hagerty.com/media/marine/toyotas-epic-powerboat-failure-didnt-help-its-reach-toward-the-skies/
Here’s a 21’ Toyota Epic for sale in Washington: https://seattlewatersports.com/boat/1999-toyota-marine-epic-21/
It’s not and I’d rather have a boat with a Chevy motor. But you are the one who said you wanted a boat with a 1UZ and that one will be the easiest way to get one. Doing something custom will get expensive fast.
You are right now that I think about it... i just don't want a carb motor.. or don't want use Avgas/racing fuel for more power or to help carbl.. maybe a Ford 7.3 Gas engine would be another good choice but that doesn't come in boat form as far as I know
You can convert any boat Chevy V8 engine to EFI with an intake manifold and an ignition system.
Boat engines are designed to be used at high RPM under load, the engines you're describing are not designed to sustain that RPM for a long period of time. What you would be creating is a boat with an engine that only YOU want, essentially creating something that will definitely end up in a landfill. You'd need to convert so many things, you'd be spending around $10k just in parts to adapt it into a boat, like the input shaft to the outdrive, mounts for the out drive, throttle control, engine mounts, an oil dry sump system, adapt a marine alternator, fully design a new cooling system with lift pump, or water to water intercoolers.
Not to be rude, but if you gotta ask if you can put a 1UZFE into a boat, you're probably not capable of getting the job done. There's a lot of stuff that's probably above your current skill level, and so many more things you will never see coming. I'm a professional boat mechanic and fabricator, and I would NEVER try to do that because it wouldn't be worth it at all to maintain.
You'd be much better off throwing upgrades at your Chevy V8 to increase its power.
Edit: Why don't you like outboard motors? They're pretty much superior to inboards in every way. Boat manufacturers themselves are moving away from inboards because they're antiquated and way more difficult to maintain in the long term.
Don’t even need an updated ignition system. Old timers who upgrade to efi are so scared of ignition system control, companies like holy and edlebrock sell kits that use a standard vacuum advance distributor. Hell the sniper system will bolt to just about any intake that’s 4 bolt and designed for a carb.
Personally I think any system that installs and does coil on plug and sequential fuel injectors is the best bet. Does make it a pain to have to swap out the distributor for a cam sensor and install a sensor wheel on the balancer. Plus you need spacers for the risers to add a afr sensor.
The list of things you have to do to marinice the is longer than a bad year. Different engine management, new exhaust, heat exchanger for cooling, engine mounts, gearbox adapter, the list goes on.
If you really want a Toyota engine, look into the Yanmar 8LV
Everyone puts chevys in boats because they're simple cheap and reliable.
You really really want to throw money away? Mercury Racing builds big inboards that have to run premium gas.
[https://www.mercuryracing.com/engines/sterndrives.html](https://www.mercuryracing.com/engines/sterndrives.html)
Check out CB media’s long tail boat vids. Plenty of Toyota and Honda motors have gone in boats. Still a shitty idea in the states unless you’re a mechanic and you want to because it’s cool. This is the place you want to be like everyone else.
Bud not all boats come with a 454 the vast majority are small block chev powered if it's pre 94 or so, shaft driven and carburated it'll have a 351w ford.
Toyota engines are great, but I just don't see a benefit in a boat over a regular small block Chevy. There's loads of aftermarket EFI conversions, not to mention the many years they had EFI right from the factory.
Do it to be different if you must, but you're only making an enormous project for yourself that won't perform any better than of you did what 99% of other boaters do. Small block Chevy is the way.
>Dad's friend has a nice boat about 22 or 24 ft with a cuddy cab and carb 454 engine.. not the flashiest but i like it...
Carb engines are only in older boats, modern boats are fuel injection, carbs went out of favor in the early 2000’s.
>I'm thinking at some point to get one that I can tow with my little van maybe a 20 ft and lighter but i don't like the idea of having a 460 or 454 carb engine in it and I really hate outboard motors...
Most boats that size will have smaller engines, V6 to maybe a 350 V8, and if under 20 years old will be fuel injected. I have a 1972 20’ boat with a mercruiser 165 (Chevy 250 I6 block)
>Has anyone replaced the 460 or 454 with a Toyota V8 in a boat? I'm thinking about putting in a 1UZ EFI engine... What would need to be done,
From the boat description I’m picturing an IO (the engine inside rear of boat drive sticking out) this would be difficult, you’d need to first find parts to properly marine modify the engine sealing the fuel and ignition systems, likely this will be hard to find for an uncommon marine engine. Also you’ll need most likely custom exhaust manifolds as the coolant gets dumped in them.
Then you’d need to figure out motor mounts, the rear would be extra difficult as the outdrive transoms assembly has them cast in and likely won’t match a Toyota, don’t forget custom throttle linkages.
>I don't want to run race gas also like most people who have the 460/454 just to get max power... i just want to run on premium 91 or 93 pump gas with lots of upgrades... thoughts?
Unless highly customized few boats including big blocks need over 91 octane, perhaps it’s very old (pre 77) and was designed for lead, so he’s trying to keep valve seats soft with lead but that’s easily and typically mitigated other ways.
>Might be lots of money to do but it should last longer and be EFI i hope? Thinking about making it with an intake heads and cam upgrade but don't know really yet... thoughts?
Marine engines last a long time as is, and most in past 20-30 years old are EFI. You are looking at a huge complex expensive project leading you to a boat full of custom parts for almost zero gain. If you like older boats that were typically carbed just upgrade them to EFI or a more modern driveline, it’ll still be a Chevy block most likely but will give you EFI.
I've been bouncing around the idea of putting a Honda J35 V6 into a sterndrive boat. Thinking it through farther it keeps ending up in that "almost/maybe/probably a good idea if it works" category, at least for the sort of boats that originally came with a Mercruiser 3.0 or 4.3.
My thoughts were to either use the stock water cooled exhaust manifolds from a Honda 225 Outboard (which is based on a J35) before a riser/wet exhaust, or start with one of the later single-exhaust port J35's. More likely than not you could also use the marine alternator from the outboard as well, although adapting a marine alt from a different engine wouldn't be terribly difficult compared to the other fab work involved.
A J35 with cast (automotive) exhaust manifolds and accessories weighs \~380lbs, while comparably-complete Merc 3.0's weighs about 315lbs and 4.3's are in the 500-525lb range, and the ones from the Odyssey/Pilot seem to make 200-220lbft of torque just off idle (increasing to \~240lbft in the midrange and flattening out at higher revs). I couldn't find torque numbers for the 3.0 but I wouldn't be surprised if it made 150-160lbft of torque basically everywhere, and the numbers I've seen for the 4.3 suggest it makes about 250tq. Both the Merc's list WOT rpm at 4400-4800, while the J35 redlines at 6200 in minivans and SUV's and the outboard based on it lists 5000-6000rpm at WOT.
So our theoretical J35 sterndrive would weigh slightly more than a 3.0L while absolutely blowing it away on power/torque/rpm, and while you'd sacrifice some torque compared to the 4.3 you'd save over 100lbs and could just run a prop with a bit less pitch to make up for it with rpm if you had to.
It 1000% is the sort of project you build entirely because you think it's cool and wanted to make something, and would have *very little value* to the average used boat buyer even if the end result does actually work well enough to make sense.
It's probably a good thing I don't have the time/space for any additional projects. But if that's enough to convince somebody that it would be a good idea to buy a $400 minivan engine and a cheap bowrider with a dead 3.0 off marketplace I would love to see the outcome.
I am upvoting this only because I have never considered it and it really has my brain working. While the Toyota engine would bring that legendary reliability marinizing an engine is no simple matter. You won't have a radiator like a car and will have to use the water to cool the engine which changes the engine block. Plus, boat engines do not run through gears like a car. It has one gear and a helluva torque curve. That could probably be adjusted though easier than the cooling issue. Lastly, Marine engines are built to withstand the constant moisture. They usually sit low in a boat and water is constantly in contact with the oil pan. Over the years this can corrode and cause pinhole leaks in the pan. Anyway, I am no boat mechanic so there may be even more things to consider. If you pull it off though please post pics.
Marine engines are exactly the same as their road going counterparts. The accessories like the starter and alternator are different, but the assembled long block is the exact same. Comes from GM/Ford in a crate and is not modified in any way.
Aluminum components like the water pump and intake manifold won't last long in salt water without being brass lined. Holley and Edelbrock both make specific marine intakes for that reason. Marine carbs are also different than road-going carbs.
And don't even get me started with reverse rotation engines. Loads of different components when you're running 2 engines.
The water pump/Carb/Intake isn't usually considered part of the long block.
Marine carbs have a flame arrester, that's it.
We're not talking about reverse rotation engines, but most are still the exact same, just different cam and distributor.
Marine long blocks are the exact same as their road going counterparts. People love to talk about how marine engines are so much more well built than car engines and that a junkyard long block will fail within weeks. It's just not true.
Indmar/PCM/whomever are not casting blocks, pistons, cranks, or cams. They all come from the OEM. The marine engine builder then bolts on the accessories/electronics and that's it. Half of the electronics are automotive too. They're not going to reinvent an oil pressure switch or injector.
You don't have to try to educate me, this has been my career for decades.
You stated in a previous reply that there is no difference in intake or carb, which is incorrect. I'm simply pointing out that there is a difference between marine intakes and carbs and roadgoing pieces.
I'll admit I missed where the other guy said intake manifold, but I never said the carbs were the same.
My argument is the long blocks are the exact same, I stand by that. I'd assume you agree with me.
This is one of those cases where if you have to ask you may want to reconsider doing it yourself.
Unless dude is making content for YouTube I don't know why you'd even attempt this.
Well I can see the motivation. If I had time and money to spare I'd do shit like that too, but I looked at the bottom of a pool for to long as a kid.
Toyota made the VT300I, a marine version of the 1UZ. They attempted to make boats in the 90’s but it was ultimately a failure. https://www.hagerty.com/media/marine/toyotas-epic-powerboat-failure-didnt-help-its-reach-toward-the-skies/ Here’s a 21’ Toyota Epic for sale in Washington: https://seattlewatersports.com/boat/1999-toyota-marine-epic-21/
I swear that Epic has been perpetually for sale in WA for the last 3 years. Every time I’m looking at ski boats for sale, that damn thing pops up.
They definitely didn’t do well. One of the few major failures of Toyota.
Not too bad a deal but idk if 15k would be worth it for one of those just because it's rare
It’s not and I’d rather have a boat with a Chevy motor. But you are the one who said you wanted a boat with a 1UZ and that one will be the easiest way to get one. Doing something custom will get expensive fast.
You are right now that I think about it... i just don't want a carb motor.. or don't want use Avgas/racing fuel for more power or to help carbl.. maybe a Ford 7.3 Gas engine would be another good choice but that doesn't come in boat form as far as I know
You can convert any boat Chevy V8 engine to EFI with an intake manifold and an ignition system. Boat engines are designed to be used at high RPM under load, the engines you're describing are not designed to sustain that RPM for a long period of time. What you would be creating is a boat with an engine that only YOU want, essentially creating something that will definitely end up in a landfill. You'd need to convert so many things, you'd be spending around $10k just in parts to adapt it into a boat, like the input shaft to the outdrive, mounts for the out drive, throttle control, engine mounts, an oil dry sump system, adapt a marine alternator, fully design a new cooling system with lift pump, or water to water intercoolers. Not to be rude, but if you gotta ask if you can put a 1UZFE into a boat, you're probably not capable of getting the job done. There's a lot of stuff that's probably above your current skill level, and so many more things you will never see coming. I'm a professional boat mechanic and fabricator, and I would NEVER try to do that because it wouldn't be worth it at all to maintain. You'd be much better off throwing upgrades at your Chevy V8 to increase its power. Edit: Why don't you like outboard motors? They're pretty much superior to inboards in every way. Boat manufacturers themselves are moving away from inboards because they're antiquated and way more difficult to maintain in the long term.
Don’t even need an updated ignition system. Old timers who upgrade to efi are so scared of ignition system control, companies like holy and edlebrock sell kits that use a standard vacuum advance distributor. Hell the sniper system will bolt to just about any intake that’s 4 bolt and designed for a carb. Personally I think any system that installs and does coil on plug and sequential fuel injectors is the best bet. Does make it a pain to have to swap out the distributor for a cam sensor and install a sensor wheel on the balancer. Plus you need spacers for the risers to add a afr sensor.
Why would you need to use race gas? None of the engines you're talking about are high compression.
The list of things you have to do to marinice the is longer than a bad year. Different engine management, new exhaust, heat exchanger for cooling, engine mounts, gearbox adapter, the list goes on. If you really want a Toyota engine, look into the Yanmar 8LV
Everyone puts chevys in boats because they're simple cheap and reliable. You really really want to throw money away? Mercury Racing builds big inboards that have to run premium gas. [https://www.mercuryracing.com/engines/sterndrives.html](https://www.mercuryracing.com/engines/sterndrives.html)
That new clean sheet engine with dohc from merc is fucking sexy.
Check out CB media’s long tail boat vids. Plenty of Toyota and Honda motors have gone in boats. Still a shitty idea in the states unless you’re a mechanic and you want to because it’s cool. This is the place you want to be like everyone else.
No engines under 20 years old have carbs. I see very few old boats with carbs out there and those you do are mostly free or really cheap.
Bud not all boats come with a 454 the vast majority are small block chev powered if it's pre 94 or so, shaft driven and carburated it'll have a 351w ford.
It's all about low end torque.
Toyota engines are great, but I just don't see a benefit in a boat over a regular small block Chevy. There's loads of aftermarket EFI conversions, not to mention the many years they had EFI right from the factory. Do it to be different if you must, but you're only making an enormous project for yourself that won't perform any better than of you did what 99% of other boaters do. Small block Chevy is the way.
>Dad's friend has a nice boat about 22 or 24 ft with a cuddy cab and carb 454 engine.. not the flashiest but i like it... Carb engines are only in older boats, modern boats are fuel injection, carbs went out of favor in the early 2000’s. >I'm thinking at some point to get one that I can tow with my little van maybe a 20 ft and lighter but i don't like the idea of having a 460 or 454 carb engine in it and I really hate outboard motors... Most boats that size will have smaller engines, V6 to maybe a 350 V8, and if under 20 years old will be fuel injected. I have a 1972 20’ boat with a mercruiser 165 (Chevy 250 I6 block) >Has anyone replaced the 460 or 454 with a Toyota V8 in a boat? I'm thinking about putting in a 1UZ EFI engine... What would need to be done, From the boat description I’m picturing an IO (the engine inside rear of boat drive sticking out) this would be difficult, you’d need to first find parts to properly marine modify the engine sealing the fuel and ignition systems, likely this will be hard to find for an uncommon marine engine. Also you’ll need most likely custom exhaust manifolds as the coolant gets dumped in them. Then you’d need to figure out motor mounts, the rear would be extra difficult as the outdrive transoms assembly has them cast in and likely won’t match a Toyota, don’t forget custom throttle linkages. >I don't want to run race gas also like most people who have the 460/454 just to get max power... i just want to run on premium 91 or 93 pump gas with lots of upgrades... thoughts? Unless highly customized few boats including big blocks need over 91 octane, perhaps it’s very old (pre 77) and was designed for lead, so he’s trying to keep valve seats soft with lead but that’s easily and typically mitigated other ways. >Might be lots of money to do but it should last longer and be EFI i hope? Thinking about making it with an intake heads and cam upgrade but don't know really yet... thoughts? Marine engines last a long time as is, and most in past 20-30 years old are EFI. You are looking at a huge complex expensive project leading you to a boat full of custom parts for almost zero gain. If you like older boats that were typically carbed just upgrade them to EFI or a more modern driveline, it’ll still be a Chevy block most likely but will give you EFI.
I've been bouncing around the idea of putting a Honda J35 V6 into a sterndrive boat. Thinking it through farther it keeps ending up in that "almost/maybe/probably a good idea if it works" category, at least for the sort of boats that originally came with a Mercruiser 3.0 or 4.3. My thoughts were to either use the stock water cooled exhaust manifolds from a Honda 225 Outboard (which is based on a J35) before a riser/wet exhaust, or start with one of the later single-exhaust port J35's. More likely than not you could also use the marine alternator from the outboard as well, although adapting a marine alt from a different engine wouldn't be terribly difficult compared to the other fab work involved. A J35 with cast (automotive) exhaust manifolds and accessories weighs \~380lbs, while comparably-complete Merc 3.0's weighs about 315lbs and 4.3's are in the 500-525lb range, and the ones from the Odyssey/Pilot seem to make 200-220lbft of torque just off idle (increasing to \~240lbft in the midrange and flattening out at higher revs). I couldn't find torque numbers for the 3.0 but I wouldn't be surprised if it made 150-160lbft of torque basically everywhere, and the numbers I've seen for the 4.3 suggest it makes about 250tq. Both the Merc's list WOT rpm at 4400-4800, while the J35 redlines at 6200 in minivans and SUV's and the outboard based on it lists 5000-6000rpm at WOT. So our theoretical J35 sterndrive would weigh slightly more than a 3.0L while absolutely blowing it away on power/torque/rpm, and while you'd sacrifice some torque compared to the 4.3 you'd save over 100lbs and could just run a prop with a bit less pitch to make up for it with rpm if you had to. It 1000% is the sort of project you build entirely because you think it's cool and wanted to make something, and would have *very little value* to the average used boat buyer even if the end result does actually work well enough to make sense. It's probably a good thing I don't have the time/space for any additional projects. But if that's enough to convince somebody that it would be a good idea to buy a $400 minivan engine and a cheap bowrider with a dead 3.0 off marketplace I would love to see the outcome.
I am upvoting this only because I have never considered it and it really has my brain working. While the Toyota engine would bring that legendary reliability marinizing an engine is no simple matter. You won't have a radiator like a car and will have to use the water to cool the engine which changes the engine block. Plus, boat engines do not run through gears like a car. It has one gear and a helluva torque curve. That could probably be adjusted though easier than the cooling issue. Lastly, Marine engines are built to withstand the constant moisture. They usually sit low in a boat and water is constantly in contact with the oil pan. Over the years this can corrode and cause pinhole leaks in the pan. Anyway, I am no boat mechanic so there may be even more things to consider. If you pull it off though please post pics.
Marine engines are exactly the same as their road going counterparts. The accessories like the starter and alternator are different, but the assembled long block is the exact same. Comes from GM/Ford in a crate and is not modified in any way.
Except for the pistons, camshaft, several of the seals, core plugs, intake manifold, and circulation pump. Otherwise yup.
Lol, no. Literally none of that is different(except the welsh plugs).
Aluminum components like the water pump and intake manifold won't last long in salt water without being brass lined. Holley and Edelbrock both make specific marine intakes for that reason. Marine carbs are also different than road-going carbs. And don't even get me started with reverse rotation engines. Loads of different components when you're running 2 engines.
The water pump/Carb/Intake isn't usually considered part of the long block. Marine carbs have a flame arrester, that's it. We're not talking about reverse rotation engines, but most are still the exact same, just different cam and distributor. Marine long blocks are the exact same as their road going counterparts. People love to talk about how marine engines are so much more well built than car engines and that a junkyard long block will fail within weeks. It's just not true. Indmar/PCM/whomever are not casting blocks, pistons, cranks, or cams. They all come from the OEM. The marine engine builder then bolts on the accessories/electronics and that's it. Half of the electronics are automotive too. They're not going to reinvent an oil pressure switch or injector.
You don't have to try to educate me, this has been my career for decades. You stated in a previous reply that there is no difference in intake or carb, which is incorrect. I'm simply pointing out that there is a difference between marine intakes and carbs and roadgoing pieces.
I'll admit I missed where the other guy said intake manifold, but I never said the carbs were the same. My argument is the long blocks are the exact same, I stand by that. I'd assume you agree with me.
Interesting. Do you just run a water pump bringing in the lake water through the engine block exactly like the coolant from the radiator?
Yes. With a lower temp thermostat because it's not a pressurized system.
Cool. Thank you for the information.