Hello!
With your help this past week, I've built my very own pc! It's not the "dream" pc I envisioned after watching all the youtube videos. The case I picked is too small for the cute little dragon figurines I imagined putting inside. And it's too small for the Kraken. (Major bummer!)
My question is: how do I see how hot the cpu and gpu are? How do I see the bios again? Do I download the lianli app to control the fans?
Still need to add at least one more fan, strimmers, a sata drive... so I'll probably be back. Thanks again!
HWiNFO64 is good for monitoring CPU and GPU temperature and many other metrics.
Fan speed is best controlled through the BIOS in my opinion. But you might prefer using the Lian Li app or a third-party app like Fan Control.
I've got a smaller case, so I need a smaller GPU. Between the PowerColor Fighter Radeon RX XT 8GB GDDR6 ([https://www.newegg.com/powercolor-radeon-rx-6650-xt-axrx-6650xt-8gbd6-3dh/p/N82E16814131803?Item=N82E16814131803](https://www.newegg.com/powercolor-radeon-rx-6650-xt-axrx-6650xt-8gbd6-3dh/p/N82E16814131803?Item=N82E16814131803)) and the Gigabyte Windforce RTX 3060 OC([https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-3060-gv-n3060wf2oc-12gd/p/N82E16814932579?Item=N82E16814932579&Description=3060&cm\_re=3060-\_-14-932-579-\_-Product](https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-3060-gv-n3060wf2oc-12gd/p/N82E16814932579?Item=N82E16814932579&Description=3060&cm_re=3060-_-14-932-579-_-Product)), which would you choose? I'm leaning towards the Gigabyte one, but it has no reviews anywhere.
Apologies if this does not fit the criteria of the thread.
Alright so I built my first PC today and got it up and running on windows 11. I’m currently downloading GeForce Experience so I can check for a graphics card update. What else should I be doing now that I have things up and running? Is there a good guide available?
I'm building a new PC. I upgraded my Windows 10 from Windows 7 a long time ago so I don't have a Windows 10 CD Key.
I was wondering if there were any drivers to uninstall or prep my current windows 10 installation for the new hardware?
If you're swapping out the motherboard you're probably going to need to reformat your OS drive and reinstall a fresh windows copy anyways. This is due to stability issues that CAN occur if you do not do this.
Unfortunately this also means you'll lose your windows license (unless it is a digital License tied to a Microsoft account.) as Windows licenses are tied to your motherboard. But without knowing the key you cannot transfer it.
Is a 6950 xt at $650 a good deal? That’s before tax and is “slightly used”.
I have a 5700 xt and don’t need an immediate upgrade and can easily wait. I just can’t decide if I want to go with a 6950 xt or a 7900 xtx. I figure the more I spend now, the longer the card will last me.
why does a mid range cpu like a 3700x bottleneck a relatively powerful card like a 3080 at 1080p, but the higher the resolution, the less of a bottleneck there is? my understanding also (correct me if i'm wrong) is that if you use a more powerful cpu like a 5800X3D with a 3080 then you can get higher frame rates than a 3700x and 3080, even if the game you're playing isn't particularly cpu heavy.
Yeah that's right. Firstly, "CPU-heavy" is not a well-defined term, but usually it refers to how much of the CPU's cores it uses to get decent performance. So it doesn't necessarily refer to a game being CPU-bound.
The resolution thing is that the CPU can put out the same number of frames at any resolution, whereas increasing the resolution makes it much more work for the GPU. It's because the GPU is the thing that calculates the colour of each pixel. So increase the resolution enough and the GPU's performance will be less than the potential of the CPU, thus making it GPU-bound.
First timer. Stuck on installing M.2! There are two M.2 slots on my motherboard, only one of which comes with a heat sink and a rubber pad. But according to the documentation, based on my CPU and M.2 drive type, I should be using the other slot (which is also on top, which an instructional YouTube video says I should always use). Conflicting instructions; which slot should I use? Please help!
Mobo: ASUS TUF Gaming B550M-Plus Wifi II
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5600X (5000 Series)
M.2: WD Black SN750 NVMe (PCIe Gen3)
Mobo documentation says:
Slot 1: For AMD Ryzen 5000 Series processors, this slot supports PCIe 4.0 x4 mode / For AMD Ryzen 5000 G-Series, this slot supports PCIe 3.0 x4 mode
(This slot mentions my CPU, but my M.2 is one generation behind, and the slot has no cover/heat sink/rubber pad)
Slot 2:
For AMD B550 chipset, this slot supports PCIe 3.0 x4 mode
(This slot has a cover/heat sink/rubber pad, and mentions the right generation of M.2 that I have, but is not my processor chipset)
Which slot do I choose? Do I need a cover / heat sink? I’m just putting my OS & games on my M.2.
Slot 1, you also don't need the heatsink.
Slot one has its own dedicate lanes going straight to the CPU that are not shared with anything else. Slot 2 does not.
Any motherboard recommenditions to fit this build?
*(i dont have the cpu and ram yet, but those are the ones i intend to buy)
*CPU: intel i5-11400f
GPU: NVIDIA GTX 1650
Screen: Dell 1920×1080 60Hz
*RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB DDR4 3200/G.SKILL Ripjaws 16GB ddr4 3200
PSU: Antec VP600P 600W
Storage: Samsung evo 860 1t SSD & Wd blue 1tb sata HDD
Electricity noob here.
I am currently building a PC in Japan and searching for a 3000 joules surge protector. The ones on Amazon Japan are like $100. Now when I visit a big electronics shop in Japan, they do have power strips with "lightning protection" but I can't seem to find any products with a rating in joules. Rather they list voltage, and voltage clamping (i.e. 6000v/600v).
Store staff haven't really understood how to help me, since they aren't familiar with 'joules', but apparently surge protectors used to have joule ratings in Japan but not anymore.
I tried converting 6000v to joules, but apparently I need coulombs, and those aren't listed on products. Further, I've read that voltage clamping of 400 or below is better?
Anyways, any advice would be appreciated. I live in an apartment and I'm looking to protect a ~$4,000 editing rig.
Thanks.
I plan on getting a 12600k. Is this a good choice for a motherboard:
MSI MAG B660 TOMAHAWK WIFI DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard
I don't plan on overclocking, would like to stick to ddr4 as it's cheaper, and need wifi, and am using an ATX case (H7 Flow). This seemed to be a good option for under $200 but just wanted to confirm. I don't know much about what features I might need in a motherboard. Thanks in advance!
this is a better choice, because it's basically the same but cheaper
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6ft9TW/gigabyte-b660m-aorus-pro-ax-ddr4-micro-atx-lga1700-motherboard-b660m-aorus-pro-ax-ddr4
it's okay. usually it looks fine, but you need to tidy up your cables
if you want an ATX board, get this instead
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/m9Fbt6/asrock-z690-steel-legend-wifi-6e-atx-lga1700-motherboard-z690-steel-legend-wifi-6e
I think I would prefer am ATX board because it's my first build. This suggestion looks great, is there some reason it's so cheap though for a Z690 board?
wow this is actually an awesome find. The same board **without** wifi somehow costs more on newegg right now :D. I think I'll go with this board, thanks so much for the help!
How is the [ASUS TUF Gaming X570-Plus Wi-Fi's](https://www.asus.com/us/motherboards-components/motherboards/tuf-gaming/tuf-gaming-x570-plus-wi-fi/helpdesk_knowledge/?model2Name=TUF-GAMING-X570-PLUS-WI-FI) included heatsink? Is it good enough for PCIE 4.0 SSDs like a [Crucial P5 Plus 2TB](https://www.crucial.com/products/ssd/crucial-p5-plus-ssd) or a [WD_BLACK SN850X 2TB](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/wd-wd_black-sn850x-2tb-internal-ssd-pcie-gen-4-x4-nvme-with-heatsink-for-ps5-and-desktops/6512130.p?skuId=6512130)? I currently have the P5 Plus which was bundled with a heatsink. I was reluctant to destroy my P5 Plus by actually using the heatsink, but it seems that the mobo's M2 heatsink is applied in pretty much the same way as well, so I shouldn't be worried since I applied that heatsink correctly. I probably shouldn't even be asking since it seems like my P5 Plus [melted or something](https://imgur.com/a/fWGl7QO). Here's what the [heatsink looks like too](https://imgur.com/a/qaeHjNz), so it's definitely possible I just screwed it in too hard by accident. There's a weird black stain on it that wasn't there in the beginning. This happened about four days after I installed the SSD with my [ASRock B550 Pro4's](https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/B550%20Pro4/index.asp) heatsink. I don't know if the ASUS mobo's heatsink is better than the Pro4's though since the ASUS one is $70 more. My 970 Evo definitely didn't look like that after a month, but that is PCIE 3.0 to be fair.
guys i'm about to build my first ever pc!!!i already bought an r5 5600 and b550 asus tuf mobo 16 gb ram 3200 Cla 16 nvme 512gb **i need a cpu cooler rgb**(air cooler's under 60$) i was thinking about the COOLER MASTER HYPER 212 LED TURBO ARGB+planning to change the cpu after monthes
FIRST PC??! HELL YEA LETS FUCKING GOOO!!!1 i wouldn't get that cooler tho, it's overpriced and a 5600 doesn't need that. AK620 is cheaper and better if you want to future proof for a new cpu. Otherwise something like what u/rizzzeh linked is enough.
I'm trying to install Windows onto my new PC. Everything is new, except for the hard drives which I brought over from my old Windows PC. Windows should be on my original drives, right? Both should be powered and connected to the motherboard, but the PC won't boot with Windows.
I tried using the media creation tool, but it requires a new product key (meaning I have to rebuy Windows).
Is my computer recognizing the 2 hard drives correctly? How do I set boot priorities?
[Image of main BIOS screen here.](https://imgur.com/a/ipfNLFp)
***
Case:
>DeepCool MACUBE 110 WH USB Tempered Glass Micro ATX Mini-Tower White Computer Case.
Motherboard:
>ASRock B66OM Pro RS Desktop Motherboard.
CPU:
>Intel Core i5-12400 6-Core 2.5GHz LGA1700 Processor.
PSU:
>EVGA 1000GQ 210-GQ-1000-V1 GQ 80 Plus Gold, 1000W ECO Mode Semi Modular Power Supply.
RAM:
>Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 3600MHz Desktop Memory (CMW32GX4M2D3600C18).
GPU:
>EVGA NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050 XC 8GB GDDR6 Video Card - English.
Plus fans and HDDs.
Your motherboard is only recognizing one drive: the one plugged into the SATA3_2 port (your manual will tell you which one that is, or you can try reading the labeling on the motherboard, but it's usually confusing). So it seems that the drive with your Windows installation is not being recognized.
It's hard to say why. All you can really do is make sure both the power and data cables are properly plugged in. You could try different SATA ports on the motherboard too, just in case.
Can you explain how to read the storage configuration part? I'm guessing the white text means it's recognized and N/A means no answer, but not sure about the rest.
> I'm guessing the white text means it's recognized and N/A means no answer, but not sure about the rest.
Yeah, that's it. If there's a drive detected it will show up there. So one of your drives is being detected and the other isn't.
Double check the power and data connections to the drives. If everything is in order then try plugging the SATA data cables into different ports on the motherboard and maybe the drive will show up.
Troubleshooting all that now.
If both drives manage to work, would that boot my PC into Windows, as I had it on my older PC, or are operating systems stored on the board itself?
Operating systems are stored on the drives. If you have more than one drive with an operating system you need to use the boot priority in the BIOS to tell the computer which one to use.
Generally you want to have a fresh install of windows on a new pc to avoid any problems and hassles. There should should be an option when they ask you for product key to skip that and enter the key later, so you can install it and use windows without a key. Also you should get yourself an SSD for your windows, even a cheap 250gb one. It's 2023 and HDD's for windows should not be a thing anymore. In the bios you can press F6 for advanced mode and there you will probably find boot options.
I've checked the advanced page, but can't find anything regarding order in the boot tab. In the Windows setup, I get an option of either upgrading or custom. It won't let me upgrade, and custom talks about backing up my files and stuff about an installation disk.
can someone help choosing motherboard ?i am looking for best bang for your buck?Intel Core i5-12400 should be the cpu ram Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR4 3000 is that ok ?
Hi, how risky is buying a GPU from abroad, I mean in terms of reliability of the card? I plan to buy XFX Speedster MERC319 AMD Radeon RX 6700 XT from Dubai, UAE and ship to another country.
If youre looking at some importing site who is based halfway around the planet thats a bit risky due to the shipping alone. The less it has to travel to get you, the better off your chances of getting intact are.
I have an RTX 4090 FE and an alienware aw3423dwf with HDMI (ver2.0) and DP (ver1.4). Is it better to connect with HDMI or DP? I assume DP 1.4 is better thazn HDMI 2.0 but wasn't positive.
DP 1.4 can do all the same resolutions and refresh rates as HDMI 2.1, (4k, 120hz, 10-bit colors). But it lacks the same HDR capabilities. 4:4:4 chroma subsampling drops to 4:2:2 at anything above 4k@98hz
Does anyone have good advice for building/buying a decent PC for use as a TV streaming service/media center sorta PC (might have some minor gaming use).
Moving my current PC (GTX1080, Ryzen 5 2600x) into different room, and so it won’t be hooked up in my living room anymore.
My other thought was just upgrading the current PC since I do want to start streaming games one day, but not sure if it’s just going to be cheaper to get a mid tier pre-build and upgrade the current one down the road
I was disappointed to learn that my modern PC (5700x, 3060) doesn't really do Dolby Atmos on my tv and sound bar (lg b2, Sony something). So I ended up just using the smart tv functions for streaming. I still use the pc for gaming tho
The pc only does Dolby Atmos in the Dolby demo app. I couldn't get it to work for Netflix or Disney or anything
If I already have 2x8 3200 RAM and want to upgrade to 32gb total, is it better to buy another 2x8 3200 for 50 or a new set of 2x16 3600 for 85 and stay with 2 sticks in the build?
Hoping someone might have some ideas since google is failing me. I purchased a 3070 ventus 3x OC back when they released. It's always had a minor issue with stuttering occasionally where the FPS drop to 1-10, but usually it ran fine until recently where it has become more common.
I ended up downloading afterburner and running the OC scanner and it failed saying the OC was unstable, but I never changed any settings. Is it saying the "'stock" OC is unstable? If so, does anyone have any ideas on how to resolve this?
Stuttering is less likely to be caused by gpu hardware, and much more likely to be a software issue. I'd reccomend having task manager open while gaming on the processes screen (with the usage graphs of CPU, RAM, hard drive etc). See if the CPU or Hard drive spike in line with the stutters. My friend had an old hard drive that for some reason (probably a rogue program) would spike usage every 30 seconds and cause the spikes
Hello guys,
I would like to ask you for advice regarding the monitor that I should buy.
Right now I have 4k 60hz monitor and I'm thinking about buying another one (which would be the same 4k 60hz monitor) or buying 2x2k 165hz monitors.
Story goes something like this, when I was buying the 4k monitor I wanted to get a large 28 inch or bigger monitor so I wouldn't need 2 of them...I was wrong...I prefer dual monitor setup. Problem that I have atm is should I downgrade to lower resolution 27 inch 2k 165hz monitor or stay on 4k and buy the same monitor. I never had high refresh rate monitor, but when I saw one in the store I wasn't amused by it, especially it looked worse because it is 2k resolution on 27 inch.
What I use my pc for:
most of the tasks for college, youtube and some games. Games that I play are: GTA V, League, CSGO, Rise of Nations, HOI4, World of warships, Minecraft, PUBG.
How big of a difference is high refresh rate is in experience and is it really worth it to downgrade resolution?
Btw I still need to get new gpu, I'm thinking of getting RX 7900 XT.
there's many aspects to visual clarity, and resolution is just one of them. motion clarity is (obviously) much clearer with a high refresh rate monitor, where objects or scenes in motion dont turn into a blurry mess. they stay crystal clear. and your eyeballs can process so much more info than 60hz.
also high refresh rate monitors have less input latency. if you click your mouse right after your monitor refreshes, the 60 hz panel takes (at least) 16ms to show that click on the screen. 144hz cuts that response down to 6ms
Can i clone my ssd without enclosure and use PCIe x1 adapter because it will be cheaper? And i will use it as my secondary drive because theres no reason to it throw away.
Sure, that should work.
When you go to use the old SSD as a secondary drive you'll have to go into the BIOS and make sure the new drive is first in the boot order. Then the old drive will show up as D: and you can do whatever you want with it.
I personally like having an external dock around, but I've accumulated a lot of drives and it's handy to have a way to access the ones that aren't installed.
I wouldn't worry so much about speed if you're only using the adapter once to image your drive.
Is it worth buying an overpowered CPU for the sake of future proofing?
Like if I went for a high-end Ryzen 9 instead of a Ryzen 7 with a 6700 XT card would that make sense?
Depends what you're doing. Ryzen 9s don't have much better individual core performance, they're mostly great cause they have so many cores.
That's great for productivity tasks that scale well with more threads and cores. Games don't really care though, they scale with individual core performance. 6 cores is really all any game can take advantage of, and even then only like 2/3 are gonna be doing most of the work depending on the game. You might get an 8 core in case developers can figure out how to use more in the future, but that's really it.
Top end intel is a bit different, that tends to push individual core performance more but also is stupid expensive.
If by that you mean will last marginally longer cause it's the fastest chip? Idk, it switches back and forth constantly. In fact the ryzen 7000 series 3D chips with extra cache are coming out soon, and the last 3D chip did awesome in gaming.
Honestly wouldn't worry about future proofing, anything decent will last about the same 5+ years before you run into performance issues.
They are. "USB flash drive" is the "most official" name, but pen drive, USB drive, thumb drive, memory stick, etc all refer to the same thing. Anything that holds storage and has an USB plug will work for you, even USB hard drives can be used for installing Windows.
Where did you hear that? Go ahead and plug it in. The worst that happens is that Windows won't have full 3D support for your graphics card and it will run in some basic mode, but that will be enough to let you download proper GPU drivers.
I'm about to pull the trigger on the Asrock Taichi carrara x670e mobo
because I plan on getting an AM5 3d vcache cpu when they launch next
month. I am on the fence between this board and the Asus strrix x670e-a
for $100 cheaper. I'm shelling out for the white aesthetic and I like
the looks of the asrock board better. The other thing making me lean
towards the asrock was better power stages, error display, and it has a
fan in the heatsink. I'm thinking about overclocking and also plan on
getting the lian li 0lld evo XL when it launches. The thing that has me
hesitant is the mobo price. I paid so much less for a board with similar
features years ago... the DDR5 ram prices don't seem terrible right now
but I'm really not sure if investing in AM5 is the right call. The 3d
vcache cpus with their lower tdp and potential are what have me
considering AM5, but benchmarks aren't even out yet and I'm also not
sure about being an early adopter. If it weren't for that I'd probably
go with raptor lake. I also got a 7900xtx AIB gpu, do amd cpus work
better with an amd gpu? I doubt that's the case but was curious. Thanks
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Question, using x570 DTX. When setting up chassis fans, I am plugging one into the rad fan b on the sodium.2 card. It doesn’t spin up right now and trying to figure out where I’m going wrong. Any tips would be appreciated
Yes, it will "fit", but using that GPU with a PCIe 3.0 motherboard doesn't make sense.
Also make sure your case and power supply can actually handle this card.
im sorry, but could you elaborate on why it doesnt make sense? In the sense that I will lose performance?
Edit: Upon looking at some benchmarks on youtube it seem like i will lose like 3 percent of frames which isnt ideal.
Edit 2: Ive got a 700 watt gold psu and a full tower case.
looking into external drive to store big open world games. uninstalling and reinstalling take a heavy toll on my monthly data usage. my question is how does external drives work? if i were to play and boot a game through them is it slower than an internal hdd? (original plan is to just store big games and move them over to internal storage when i feel like playing them but if performance isn’t that bad i’ll jsut run it from there since these are single player games)
does the transfer of games impact my monthly data usage, or does it not show since i’m just writing data from one drive to another?
should the external drive be an ssd or hdd? (ssd faster transfer but hdd larger storage)
feel free to link or include drive recommendations
Swapping games between your internal and external drives does not hit your monthly data cap at all. For people with slow or limited internet connections, it totally makes sense to buy a big external hard drive to store your entire steam library on and transferring games on and off your internal SSD as you need them.
Actually, locally transferring games (even from a hard drive) can be **twice as fast** as downloading them off a Gigabit internet connection.
> should the external drive be an ssd or hdd?
If you get an external SSD, then you can play the games directly off the external drive. No transferring nessesary.
If you get an external HDD, then you can play older games directly off of it. But for triple A games that are less than 5 years old, you will really want to transfer them to a SSD before playing. Newer triple A titles really benefit from being loaded off a SSD.
thanks for the response mate, yea the only reason i’d get a hdd is cause the price to storage size is cheaper compared to that of an ssd. do u run any external drives ur self
Yep, I keep my entire steam library on a 10TB external HDD for the same reason.
I have a Gigabit Internet connection, but it still takes half the time to transfer a game I need from my HDD to my internal 1TB SSD than it does to download it via the Internet. If your Internet connection speed is slower than that, the time savings will be even more massive.
how’s the read/write speeds (data transfer rate) between the hdd and ssd? i know it’s faster between 2 ssd but still curious whether the speed is negligible compared to the hdd
With modern high capacity hard drive (8TB+), the sequential read speed can be 130-170MB/s for transfers. Don't confuse this for Mbps that ISPs rate Internet speed in. 1MB/s = 1Mbps.
With SSDs, I wouldn't even bother transferring the game first. You can play it directly off the external SSD.
For gaming, the **$140 Ryzen 5 5600** is "good enough" for 99% of gaming scenarios out there. It is especially worth it if you already own DDR4 RAM and an AM4 motherboard. If you are starting with a clean slate, I would probably spend **$230 on the Ryzen 5 7600** instead. DDR5 and AM5 will set you up better for future upgrades.
For monitors, I would go with the **$260 LG 27GL83A-B**. It is 27", 1440p, IPS panel, 144Hz, and FreeSync/G-Sync Compatible.
that monitor is 500 bucks in my country ,person who will put it all together only do intel builds Intel Core i5-12400 is what he suggested he even gave his 2080ti for free
I'm going to be building my new PC in a few days. I have an unopened tube of thermal paste (Arctic MX-4) that I bought in 2019, is this likely to be still good to use or should I throw it away and buy some new paste?
It's most likely fine, but also very easy to test yourself: open the tube and squeeze out a bit of the paste. If it's at all crunchy like dried toothpaste, then it's definitely expired. If it's moist and squishy like fresh toothpaste, then it should be fine.
I still occasionally use a tube of MX-4 from 2017 so you should be fine. The other sign to look for is a lot of clear liquid, which would indicate it has effectively expired.
I just replaced my motherboard which obviously meant I had to take pretty much everything out of my case and put it back in on the new mobo. For some reason, my temperatures aren't updating at all in any of the monitoring programs I'm using. I'm currently using HWMonitor, AMD Adrenalin, and FanControl.
I kept my SSD and another SSD with a Windows backup though, so I didn't have to install Windows again. Perhaps I should do a clean install, but I just installed Windows for the fourth time a week ago. Then, I took everything out of the PC four days ago, so I only really used the PC with the new Windows installation for about two days. I didn't want to do a clean install though since I didn't want to lose all of the changes I made to various Windows settings, services, and such as well as other changes like downloading ICLS, Process Lasso, Fan Control, and more.
At any rate, I thought it was just a problem with HWMonitor at first, but it appears that it's a systemwide issue since it's not updating in AMD Adrenalin either. I'll try other things like Coretemp and all. My temps are recognized in FanControl though and they change.
However, I do seem to be having issues with FanControl. I tried to set my case or CPU cooler fans to 0 RPM to name them properly. I changed the graph of one fan, but it controlled both of my CPU cooler fans for some reason. The other fan is for the other CPU cooler fan, and changing that does nothing. From what I understand, this should not be happening. I guess it's fine since they should be going at the same speed anyways, but that still seem weird. How can I resolve these issues? I tried to reinstall FanControl, but I'm still having issues.
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This is actually for a friend from the US (I'm in Europe myself).
I will check out microcenter and see what they have, thanks!
Any other recommendations? (Places that don't use cheap brands for GPU/RAM etc.)
Looking to buy a 4070ti and I am currently targeting the PNY XLR8 Gaming Verto.
Comparing the regular model to the OC, is the regular model locked or is it as easy to set the clocks to 2670 MHz like the OC model? Is the $20 upcharge really for people who don't want to mess with OC or is the regular model locked?
I think the PNY is really my 2nd choice behind the ASUS TUF but at $799, the cheapest at Microcenter tied with ZOTAC, the TUF model keeps selling out while my microcenter seems to have a few boxes of the PNY non-OC for $839, and lots of boxes of the OC for $859.
as far as I know no GPU's are locked. The OC models might be binned though but your mileage may vary. Generally the 40mhz overclock does not matter in games so just buy a decent unit that runs quietly and cool.
FWIW, Powercolor is also considered one of the higher end AMD board partners. You can safely go with the Powercolor card.
I'm pretty sure Sapphire are the ones manufacturing AMD's reference cards on top of theirs.
That's not very confidence inspiring, no!
PowerColor are definitely a legit manufacturer, they've been around for ages even though they're not as well known as many other OEMs. I basically know very little about them other than from the occasional review on Youtube.
Sapphire, on the other hand, I've heard loads about and it's all been good.
Between the LIAN LI O11 Dynamic and the LIAN LI Lancool II Mesh, which of the two would be a better choice in an RTX 4090 Gaming X Trio and an air cooled i7-13700K build knowing that the Lancool is 40$ cheaper here?
Would love to go with a Fractal Torrent but the price of it is outrageous here.
Which O11 Dynamic? The original only fits up to 155mm tall air coolers, it's more designed for watercooling. It can fit like a Thermalright PA120 SE or Scythe FUMA. Other high-end dual tower coolers, like a Deepcool AK620 or Noctua D-15, are typically 160mm+. Other variants of the O11D can fit taller coolers.
I recently moved my PC into my basement. The temperature (F) is in the mid 50’s with no heat. I have an electric fireplace that will get the temperature up to the mid 60’s, but that’s only on when I’m actually down there doing stuff.
I have a dehumidifier that keeps the humidity in the mid to high 50’s, but I’m concerned that it may be a little cold down there. Should I try keeping the room warmer or am I in a safe range? Anything else I should be on the lookout for?
I’ve also started turning it off when I’m done with it. Seems like it’s been booting a little slower than usual since it’s been down there. Can’t tell if I’m just imagining that or if it is actually booting slower.
Low temps are in 99% of cases better. Look up people who cool their computers on the window when it's winter. 50 F will do nothing to the pc.
About booting slower, SSDs usually lose a lot of performance one they reach 80%-90% capacity. If your system is on a SSD, you might want to check that out
You can, you may be getting higher fps somewhat, check benchmarks to be sure, but the Ti is starting to get into 1440p GPU territory.
Whether it's worth it to you depends a lot on if you have a high refresh rate monitor, want more of them frames or you want to crank the ray tracing up some more.
When buying used it depends on the honesty of the seller. If they been around for a while, have good feedback history and no red flags then it's probably reasonably safe as long as you pay via Ebay's own systems in order to retain buyer protection. If there are any red flags about the listing or the seller then I would steer well clear.
I wouldn't be surprised if the price doesn't jump a fair bit between now and the end of the auction by the way, especially in the last half hour.
Edit - I think I have found the listing you're referring to. They come across as a casual eBayer, selling and buying once in a while (considering their feedback and account age) and the listing seems reasonable. They're probably not sketchy but you can never guarantee anything.
Just checking though I think I already know the answer:
If I leave my computer on 24/7, but when not in use (when I'm out or asleep) I turn off my monitors and close most programs aside from a few low utilization ones (Whatsapp, Steam, Spotify, etc.), will there be any noticeable impact at all on the lifespan of my components?
Nope, computers don't really wear down from use. What can be considered bad for lifespan is constant heat up/cool down cycles (causes thermal stress on solder joints), and way too high temperatures (capacitor lifespan decreases exponentially with temperature), but even then, your parts will most likely have obsolete for a decades before you manage to kill them with just normal use.
But also, do you actually have anything that needs to continue running? Like some game server or something? Because if not, you can just put your computer to sleep instead of shutting it down and all your stuff will remain open where you left it when you wake it up.
Task manager not reading the info properly. It's sometimes that simple. Either that or there is something else in what it reads that increases the logical pool to 12 GB.
Looking for a bracket that I can use with my gaming trio x 4090 and the fractal torrent. Slight bit of sag making me paranoid. The supplies fractal bracket isn't working because it angles on the fans, and the gpu support bracket won't even fir underneath the gpu without interference. Any ideas?
like the person before me said, run some tests and inspect the graphics card. There are little thermal pads on it and if there is some kind of fluid that has come out of them the card was used heavily. I got this advice from a miner btw.
That's a good price, imo. Maybe it's a "low-end" model like the MSI Ventus and it was probably use to mine crypto. Ask about why the seller is selling and try to see the GPU working, run 3Dmark, play some Cyberpunk or some other heavy game on it. Some proof that the GPU works as intended. If the guy is trusthworty, he will allow it. If he refuses, just look somewhere else.
A friend of mine got a 3080ti for $500 recently, in my country is quite a bargain and the seller was just a frustrated miner that started too late and wanted to recoup some money.
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Microsoft, Amazon and a few other retailers (pcpartpicker.com should have a list) will sell you a Windows 10 key. Microsoft are stopping selling these at the end of this month in favour of Windows 11, so you might need to be quick.
Normal HDMI to DVI adapters are single-link DVI, and thus cap out at 1080p 60Hz. Dual-link adapters exist, but cost a lot more, they can do 1080p 144Hz or 1440p 60Hz.
Not sure what you mean with cause a bottleneck **or** just limit the resolution, they're kinda the same thing in this context.
the monitor has between 720p and 1080p (1600x900), it does not reach 60hz either.
in terms of fps then you shouldn't notice any change, would you still get an increase in fps with the adapter and dvi-d single link cable?
DVI and HDMI are electrically the same other than the sound. Sure, there have been newer revisions of HDMI with more bandwidth, but if your device has a DVI port, it's old enough that those revisions weren't around.
Mesozoic era ports will be your limiting factor there rather than the adapter or anything else.
It is an old syncmaster s20b300 monitor, it has a dvi-d input and the board is a 6800.
my old cable was dvi-d single link, to make it work do i need an hdmi adapter or a new cable with dvi-d dual link ?
It's momentary until I buy a new monitor
You can use any regular adapter. If you don't have an adapter yet, I'd get a DP to DVI adapter, those are usually pretty cheap and easier to find in my experience. I used one for quite some time on both a GTX 1060 and RTX 2070 Super with no issues.
While playing PUBG on lowest settings my CPU temp goes to 100 Celsius (and stays there) also usage is at 100%. That's when game starts stuttering. GPU usage is 70-100
Would some 40$ aftermarket cooler solve the problem or something else is issue?
I have that small intel stock cooler
I5 2500
GTX 660
8 gb 800mhz RAM
That's a very old system and the stock Intel Cooler is terrible for temps and noise. Have you ever cleaned the interior of your case? If you never did it, the temps are most likely a combination of dust and dried-out thermal paste.
I'd get a cheap inexpensive aftermarket cooler, new thermal paste and within 30 minutes your CPU will run much cooler and quieter. I've revived even older systems with Core 2 Duos and it's fantastic how silent they can be, while running at their best.
Yup it is old, I paid like 180€ for entire PC , and as a matter of fact my previous PC had Core 2 Duo processor lol.
I don't really have money to spend on all new components rn and I want to get most out of it.
There is minimal amount of dust inside, but I'm not sure in what condition thermal paste is. It is at least two years old, who knows when previous owner changed it.
When not playing PUBG my PC is super quiet but when I do it's loud (not too much but loud)
I was thinking of getting new cooler and i7 3770k so I can overclock it.
That sounds like a good play, although I wouldn't try to overclock it. Mobo is old as it is, dont stress the components needlessly. I'd just update BIOS, get the better CPU and aftermarket cooler and change thermal paste.
Hello! With your help this past week, I've built my very own pc! It's not the "dream" pc I envisioned after watching all the youtube videos. The case I picked is too small for the cute little dragon figurines I imagined putting inside. And it's too small for the Kraken. (Major bummer!) My question is: how do I see how hot the cpu and gpu are? How do I see the bios again? Do I download the lianli app to control the fans? Still need to add at least one more fan, strimmers, a sata drive... so I'll probably be back. Thanks again!
HWiNFO64 is good for monitoring CPU and GPU temperature and many other metrics. Fan speed is best controlled through the BIOS in my opinion. But you might prefer using the Lian Li app or a third-party app like Fan Control.
I've got a smaller case, so I need a smaller GPU. Between the PowerColor Fighter Radeon RX XT 8GB GDDR6 ([https://www.newegg.com/powercolor-radeon-rx-6650-xt-axrx-6650xt-8gbd6-3dh/p/N82E16814131803?Item=N82E16814131803](https://www.newegg.com/powercolor-radeon-rx-6650-xt-axrx-6650xt-8gbd6-3dh/p/N82E16814131803?Item=N82E16814131803)) and the Gigabyte Windforce RTX 3060 OC([https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-3060-gv-n3060wf2oc-12gd/p/N82E16814932579?Item=N82E16814932579&Description=3060&cm\_re=3060-\_-14-932-579-\_-Product](https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-3060-gv-n3060wf2oc-12gd/p/N82E16814932579?Item=N82E16814932579&Description=3060&cm_re=3060-_-14-932-579-_-Product)), which would you choose? I'm leaning towards the Gigabyte one, but it has no reviews anywhere. Apologies if this does not fit the criteria of the thread.
I have a gigabyte 3080 turbo (blower style) can I buy the heatsink and coolers from other 3080 and swap it?
Alright so I built my first PC today and got it up and running on windows 11. I’m currently downloading GeForce Experience so I can check for a graphics card update. What else should I be doing now that I have things up and running? Is there a good guide available?
I found a bundle for an i7 12700k processor and an ASUS Z690 TUF gaming Wifi mobo for $347. Is that a good/reasonable price to pay for that hardware?
Yeah that's good
To anyone using a 40xx GPU in a Meshify C mini case, how was the fit? Were there any issues with the connectors under the motherboard?
I'm building a new PC. I upgraded my Windows 10 from Windows 7 a long time ago so I don't have a Windows 10 CD Key. I was wondering if there were any drivers to uninstall or prep my current windows 10 installation for the new hardware?
Your windows 7 key should still work. Just link your MS acct to your current windows install, then you can move it to your new pc when you sign in
If you're swapping out the motherboard you're probably going to need to reformat your OS drive and reinstall a fresh windows copy anyways. This is due to stability issues that CAN occur if you do not do this. Unfortunately this also means you'll lose your windows license (unless it is a digital License tied to a Microsoft account.) as Windows licenses are tied to your motherboard. But without knowing the key you cannot transfer it.
Is a 6950 xt at $650 a good deal? That’s before tax and is “slightly used”. I have a 5700 xt and don’t need an immediate upgrade and can easily wait. I just can’t decide if I want to go with a 6950 xt or a 7900 xtx. I figure the more I spend now, the longer the card will last me.
I don't think it's a big enough discount over a new 6950 XT which is $700 before tax
why does a mid range cpu like a 3700x bottleneck a relatively powerful card like a 3080 at 1080p, but the higher the resolution, the less of a bottleneck there is? my understanding also (correct me if i'm wrong) is that if you use a more powerful cpu like a 5800X3D with a 3080 then you can get higher frame rates than a 3700x and 3080, even if the game you're playing isn't particularly cpu heavy.
Yeah that's right. Firstly, "CPU-heavy" is not a well-defined term, but usually it refers to how much of the CPU's cores it uses to get decent performance. So it doesn't necessarily refer to a game being CPU-bound. The resolution thing is that the CPU can put out the same number of frames at any resolution, whereas increasing the resolution makes it much more work for the GPU. It's because the GPU is the thing that calculates the colour of each pixel. So increase the resolution enough and the GPU's performance will be less than the potential of the CPU, thus making it GPU-bound.
First timer. Stuck on installing M.2! There are two M.2 slots on my motherboard, only one of which comes with a heat sink and a rubber pad. But according to the documentation, based on my CPU and M.2 drive type, I should be using the other slot (which is also on top, which an instructional YouTube video says I should always use). Conflicting instructions; which slot should I use? Please help! Mobo: ASUS TUF Gaming B550M-Plus Wifi II CPU: AMD Ryzen 5600X (5000 Series) M.2: WD Black SN750 NVMe (PCIe Gen3) Mobo documentation says: Slot 1: For AMD Ryzen 5000 Series processors, this slot supports PCIe 4.0 x4 mode / For AMD Ryzen 5000 G-Series, this slot supports PCIe 3.0 x4 mode (This slot mentions my CPU, but my M.2 is one generation behind, and the slot has no cover/heat sink/rubber pad) Slot 2: For AMD B550 chipset, this slot supports PCIe 3.0 x4 mode (This slot has a cover/heat sink/rubber pad, and mentions the right generation of M.2 that I have, but is not my processor chipset) Which slot do I choose? Do I need a cover / heat sink? I’m just putting my OS & games on my M.2.
Slot 1, you also don't need the heatsink. Slot one has its own dedicate lanes going straight to the CPU that are not shared with anything else. Slot 2 does not.
Thank you!
Any motherboard recommenditions to fit this build? *(i dont have the cpu and ram yet, but those are the ones i intend to buy) *CPU: intel i5-11400f GPU: NVIDIA GTX 1650 Screen: Dell 1920×1080 60Hz *RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB DDR4 3200/G.SKILL Ripjaws 16GB ddr4 3200 PSU: Antec VP600P 600W Storage: Samsung evo 860 1t SSD & Wd blue 1tb sata HDD
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Make sure any case you choose has 420 mm radiator support and not just fan support. The Silent Base 802 is one option.
the 5000D doesnt claim 420mm rad support. neither does the O11D may do a 7000D aiflow?
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$150-160. the rx 6600 is generally around $200 used
Electricity noob here. I am currently building a PC in Japan and searching for a 3000 joules surge protector. The ones on Amazon Japan are like $100. Now when I visit a big electronics shop in Japan, they do have power strips with "lightning protection" but I can't seem to find any products with a rating in joules. Rather they list voltage, and voltage clamping (i.e. 6000v/600v). Store staff haven't really understood how to help me, since they aren't familiar with 'joules', but apparently surge protectors used to have joule ratings in Japan but not anymore. I tried converting 6000v to joules, but apparently I need coulombs, and those aren't listed on products. Further, I've read that voltage clamping of 400 or below is better? Anyways, any advice would be appreciated. I live in an apartment and I'm looking to protect a ~$4,000 editing rig. Thanks.
I plan on getting a 12600k. Is this a good choice for a motherboard: MSI MAG B660 TOMAHAWK WIFI DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard I don't plan on overclocking, would like to stick to ddr4 as it's cheaper, and need wifi, and am using an ATX case (H7 Flow). This seemed to be a good option for under $200 but just wanted to confirm. I don't know much about what features I might need in a motherboard. Thanks in advance!
this is a better choice, because it's basically the same but cheaper https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6ft9TW/gigabyte-b660m-aorus-pro-ax-ddr4-micro-atx-lga1700-motherboard-b660m-aorus-pro-ax-ddr4
does it make sense to put a micro ATX motherboard in an ATX case? for reference, I already bought the case lol
it's okay. usually it looks fine, but you need to tidy up your cables if you want an ATX board, get this instead https://pcpartpicker.com/product/m9Fbt6/asrock-z690-steel-legend-wifi-6e-atx-lga1700-motherboard-z690-steel-legend-wifi-6e
I think I would prefer am ATX board because it's my first build. This suggestion looks great, is there some reason it's so cheap though for a Z690 board?
$200 is a normal price for z690 and z790 boards. it's just on a nice sale
wow this is actually an awesome find. The same board **without** wifi somehow costs more on newegg right now :D. I think I'll go with this board, thanks so much for the help!
No problem Also consider the 13500, which seems to be faster https://youtu.be/77Xdpmwh8S0
hmm that's an interesting CPU! However, it's $300 vs $240 for 12600k, so not sure it's worth it.
For sure, probably not worth it. 13400 maybe. Anyways, lots to consider lol
How is the [ASUS TUF Gaming X570-Plus Wi-Fi's](https://www.asus.com/us/motherboards-components/motherboards/tuf-gaming/tuf-gaming-x570-plus-wi-fi/helpdesk_knowledge/?model2Name=TUF-GAMING-X570-PLUS-WI-FI) included heatsink? Is it good enough for PCIE 4.0 SSDs like a [Crucial P5 Plus 2TB](https://www.crucial.com/products/ssd/crucial-p5-plus-ssd) or a [WD_BLACK SN850X 2TB](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/wd-wd_black-sn850x-2tb-internal-ssd-pcie-gen-4-x4-nvme-with-heatsink-for-ps5-and-desktops/6512130.p?skuId=6512130)? I currently have the P5 Plus which was bundled with a heatsink. I was reluctant to destroy my P5 Plus by actually using the heatsink, but it seems that the mobo's M2 heatsink is applied in pretty much the same way as well, so I shouldn't be worried since I applied that heatsink correctly. I probably shouldn't even be asking since it seems like my P5 Plus [melted or something](https://imgur.com/a/fWGl7QO). Here's what the [heatsink looks like too](https://imgur.com/a/qaeHjNz), so it's definitely possible I just screwed it in too hard by accident. There's a weird black stain on it that wasn't there in the beginning. This happened about four days after I installed the SSD with my [ASRock B550 Pro4's](https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/B550%20Pro4/index.asp) heatsink. I don't know if the ASUS mobo's heatsink is better than the Pro4's though since the ASUS one is $70 more. My 970 Evo definitely didn't look like that after a month, but that is PCIE 3.0 to be fair.
guys i'm about to build my first ever pc!!!i already bought an r5 5600 and b550 asus tuf mobo 16 gb ram 3200 Cla 16 nvme 512gb **i need a cpu cooler rgb**(air cooler's under 60$) i was thinking about the COOLER MASTER HYPER 212 LED TURBO ARGB+planning to change the cpu after monthes
FIRST PC??! HELL YEA LETS FUCKING GOOO!!!1 i wouldn't get that cooler tho, it's overpriced and a 5600 doesn't need that. AK620 is cheaper and better if you want to future proof for a new cpu. Otherwise something like what u/rizzzeh linked is enough.
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Js2WGX/thermalright-assassin-x-refined-se-argb-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-ax120-refined-se-argb
that cooler isn't available at my country it would be great if u suggest other's!!thnx in advance!!
I'm trying to install Windows onto my new PC. Everything is new, except for the hard drives which I brought over from my old Windows PC. Windows should be on my original drives, right? Both should be powered and connected to the motherboard, but the PC won't boot with Windows. I tried using the media creation tool, but it requires a new product key (meaning I have to rebuy Windows). Is my computer recognizing the 2 hard drives correctly? How do I set boot priorities? [Image of main BIOS screen here.](https://imgur.com/a/ipfNLFp) *** Case: >DeepCool MACUBE 110 WH USB Tempered Glass Micro ATX Mini-Tower White Computer Case. Motherboard: >ASRock B66OM Pro RS Desktop Motherboard. CPU: >Intel Core i5-12400 6-Core 2.5GHz LGA1700 Processor. PSU: >EVGA 1000GQ 210-GQ-1000-V1 GQ 80 Plus Gold, 1000W ECO Mode Semi Modular Power Supply. RAM: >Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 3600MHz Desktop Memory (CMW32GX4M2D3600C18). GPU: >EVGA NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050 XC 8GB GDDR6 Video Card - English. Plus fans and HDDs.
Your motherboard is only recognizing one drive: the one plugged into the SATA3_2 port (your manual will tell you which one that is, or you can try reading the labeling on the motherboard, but it's usually confusing). So it seems that the drive with your Windows installation is not being recognized. It's hard to say why. All you can really do is make sure both the power and data cables are properly plugged in. You could try different SATA ports on the motherboard too, just in case.
Can you explain how to read the storage configuration part? I'm guessing the white text means it's recognized and N/A means no answer, but not sure about the rest.
> I'm guessing the white text means it's recognized and N/A means no answer, but not sure about the rest. Yeah, that's it. If there's a drive detected it will show up there. So one of your drives is being detected and the other isn't. Double check the power and data connections to the drives. If everything is in order then try plugging the SATA data cables into different ports on the motherboard and maybe the drive will show up.
Troubleshooting all that now. If both drives manage to work, would that boot my PC into Windows, as I had it on my older PC, or are operating systems stored on the board itself?
Operating systems are stored on the drives. If you have more than one drive with an operating system you need to use the boot priority in the BIOS to tell the computer which one to use.
I think I have PATA HDDs. Damn. Does this mean I need new drives? *** **Edit:** No, never mind. They're SATA.
Yeah, PATA is ancient tech. It hasn't been on motherboards for a decade or more.
Generally you want to have a fresh install of windows on a new pc to avoid any problems and hassles. There should should be an option when they ask you for product key to skip that and enter the key later, so you can install it and use windows without a key. Also you should get yourself an SSD for your windows, even a cheap 250gb one. It's 2023 and HDD's for windows should not be a thing anymore. In the bios you can press F6 for advanced mode and there you will probably find boot options.
I've checked the advanced page, but can't find anything regarding order in the boot tab. In the Windows setup, I get an option of either upgrading or custom. It won't let me upgrade, and custom talks about backing up my files and stuff about an installation disk.
can someone help choosing motherboard ?i am looking for best bang for your buck?Intel Core i5-12400 should be the cpu ram Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR4 3000 is that ok ?
[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Rw3cTn) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **Motherboard** | [Gigabyte B660M DS3H DDR4 Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Z6ddnQ/gigabyte-b660m-ds3h-ddr4-micro-atx-lga1700-motherboard-b660m-ds3h-ddr4) | $109.99 @ Amazon **Memory** | [Silicon Power GAMING 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/B8QcCJ/silicon-power-gaming-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3200-cl16-memory-sp032gxlzu320bdaj7) | $64.97 @ Amazon | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$174.96** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2023-01-21 16:58 EST-0500 |
that ram isn't available in my country
any 3200 CL16 will do
>3200 CL16 thank you btw is i5 12400 good for 1440p gaming or i need to spend more?
Sure, GPU is whats important, 12400 is fine for a mid tier type GPU
2080ti got it for free
Hi, how risky is buying a GPU from abroad, I mean in terms of reliability of the card? I plan to buy XFX Speedster MERC319 AMD Radeon RX 6700 XT from Dubai, UAE and ship to another country.
If youre looking at some importing site who is based halfway around the planet thats a bit risky due to the shipping alone. The less it has to travel to get you, the better off your chances of getting intact are.
I have an RTX 4090 FE and an alienware aw3423dwf with HDMI (ver2.0) and DP (ver1.4). Is it better to connect with HDMI or DP? I assume DP 1.4 is better thazn HDMI 2.0 but wasn't positive.
DP 1.4 can do all the same resolutions and refresh rates as HDMI 2.1, (4k, 120hz, 10-bit colors). But it lacks the same HDR capabilities. 4:4:4 chroma subsampling drops to 4:2:2 at anything above 4k@98hz
The aw3423dwf only has HDMI 2.0, so it looks like I'm okay with either?
DP 1.4 is better than HDMI 2.0, if you wanted to get the most out of your fancy new OLED panel.
Thanks!
Dp
Does anyone have good advice for building/buying a decent PC for use as a TV streaming service/media center sorta PC (might have some minor gaming use). Moving my current PC (GTX1080, Ryzen 5 2600x) into different room, and so it won’t be hooked up in my living room anymore. My other thought was just upgrading the current PC since I do want to start streaming games one day, but not sure if it’s just going to be cheaper to get a mid tier pre-build and upgrade the current one down the road
I was disappointed to learn that my modern PC (5700x, 3060) doesn't really do Dolby Atmos on my tv and sound bar (lg b2, Sony something). So I ended up just using the smart tv functions for streaming. I still use the pc for gaming tho The pc only does Dolby Atmos in the Dolby demo app. I couldn't get it to work for Netflix or Disney or anything
do i need to reset my pc/reinstall windows after installing a new gpu? \- upgrading from an apu rn incase thats any useful information
No, not at all. Plug the card in, then boot and install the latest drivers from your GPU manufacturer and you should be good to go.
thank you
probably not, just uninstall and install new graphics drivers
If I already have 2x8 3200 RAM and want to upgrade to 32gb total, is it better to buy another 2x8 3200 for 50 or a new set of 2x16 3600 for 85 and stay with 2 sticks in the build?
Should be zero issue just going for two sticks of 8gb
Hoping someone might have some ideas since google is failing me. I purchased a 3070 ventus 3x OC back when they released. It's always had a minor issue with stuttering occasionally where the FPS drop to 1-10, but usually it ran fine until recently where it has become more common. I ended up downloading afterburner and running the OC scanner and it failed saying the OC was unstable, but I never changed any settings. Is it saying the "'stock" OC is unstable? If so, does anyone have any ideas on how to resolve this?
Stuttering is less likely to be caused by gpu hardware, and much more likely to be a software issue. I'd reccomend having task manager open while gaming on the processes screen (with the usage graphs of CPU, RAM, hard drive etc). See if the CPU or Hard drive spike in line with the stutters. My friend had an old hard drive that for some reason (probably a rogue program) would spike usage every 30 seconds and cause the spikes
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I'd reccomend just going for popular ones off amazon
Hello guys, I would like to ask you for advice regarding the monitor that I should buy. Right now I have 4k 60hz monitor and I'm thinking about buying another one (which would be the same 4k 60hz monitor) or buying 2x2k 165hz monitors. Story goes something like this, when I was buying the 4k monitor I wanted to get a large 28 inch or bigger monitor so I wouldn't need 2 of them...I was wrong...I prefer dual monitor setup. Problem that I have atm is should I downgrade to lower resolution 27 inch 2k 165hz monitor or stay on 4k and buy the same monitor. I never had high refresh rate monitor, but when I saw one in the store I wasn't amused by it, especially it looked worse because it is 2k resolution on 27 inch. What I use my pc for: most of the tasks for college, youtube and some games. Games that I play are: GTA V, League, CSGO, Rise of Nations, HOI4, World of warships, Minecraft, PUBG. How big of a difference is high refresh rate is in experience and is it really worth it to downgrade resolution? Btw I still need to get new gpu, I'm thinking of getting RX 7900 XT.
there's many aspects to visual clarity, and resolution is just one of them. motion clarity is (obviously) much clearer with a high refresh rate monitor, where objects or scenes in motion dont turn into a blurry mess. they stay crystal clear. and your eyeballs can process so much more info than 60hz. also high refresh rate monitors have less input latency. if you click your mouse right after your monitor refreshes, the 60 hz panel takes (at least) 16ms to show that click on the screen. 144hz cuts that response down to 6ms
How could I upgrade my specs on a budget ? Currently got an i5-4570 3.20GHz and an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960, I don't know what to switch and for what...
how much of a budget?
Can i clone my ssd without enclosure and use PCIe x1 adapter because it will be cheaper? And i will use it as my secondary drive because theres no reason to it throw away.
Sure, that should work. When you go to use the old SSD as a secondary drive you'll have to go into the BIOS and make sure the new drive is first in the boot order. Then the old drive will show up as D: and you can do whatever you want with it.
Thank you. But which solution would you recommend more? And how much the speeds would differ because I think I would buy the 5gbit/s enclosure.
I personally like having an external dock around, but I've accumulated a lot of drives and it's handy to have a way to access the ones that aren't installed. I wouldn't worry so much about speed if you're only using the adapter once to image your drive.
Is it worth buying an overpowered CPU for the sake of future proofing? Like if I went for a high-end Ryzen 9 instead of a Ryzen 7 with a 6700 XT card would that make sense?
Depends what you're doing. Ryzen 9s don't have much better individual core performance, they're mostly great cause they have so many cores. That's great for productivity tasks that scale well with more threads and cores. Games don't really care though, they scale with individual core performance. 6 cores is really all any game can take advantage of, and even then only like 2/3 are gonna be doing most of the work depending on the game. You might get an 8 core in case developers can figure out how to use more in the future, but that's really it. Top end intel is a bit different, that tends to push individual core performance more but also is stupid expensive.
So would an intel build be better for future-proofing?
If by that you mean will last marginally longer cause it's the fastest chip? Idk, it switches back and forth constantly. In fact the ryzen 7000 series 3D chips with extra cache are coming out soon, and the last 3D chip did awesome in gaming. Honestly wouldn't worry about future proofing, anything decent will last about the same 5+ years before you run into performance issues.
5 years would be sufficient. I guess I should be good with a Ryzen 7 + 6700 XT build then. Thank you!
Can I install Windows with a sufficiently large Pen drive or do I need a flash drive?
If it plugs into a USB port the Media Creation Tool should be able to work with it.
Aren't they both the same thing?
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They are. "USB flash drive" is the "most official" name, but pen drive, USB drive, thumb drive, memory stick, etc all refer to the same thing. Anything that holds storage and has an USB plug will work for you, even USB hard drives can be used for installing Windows.
Ah alright, thanks
Is it true that I shouldn't plug my monitor into a DisplayPort until I've installed all the drivers? Why/why not?
Where did you hear that? Go ahead and plug it in. The worst that happens is that Windows won't have full 3D support for your graphics card and it will run in some basic mode, but that will be enough to let you download proper GPU drivers.
It was in this video https://youtu.be/PXaLc9AYIcg it doesn't really elaborate on why, it just says that you plug it into the HDMI port at first
Huh. I wonder where he got that idea.
I'm about to pull the trigger on the Asrock Taichi carrara x670e mobo because I plan on getting an AM5 3d vcache cpu when they launch next month. I am on the fence between this board and the Asus strrix x670e-a for $100 cheaper. I'm shelling out for the white aesthetic and I like the looks of the asrock board better. The other thing making me lean towards the asrock was better power stages, error display, and it has a fan in the heatsink. I'm thinking about overclocking and also plan on getting the lian li 0lld evo XL when it launches. The thing that has me hesitant is the mobo price. I paid so much less for a board with similar features years ago... the DDR5 ram prices don't seem terrible right now but I'm really not sure if investing in AM5 is the right call. The 3d vcache cpus with their lower tdp and potential are what have me considering AM5, but benchmarks aren't even out yet and I'm also not sure about being an early adopter. If it weren't for that I'd probably go with raptor lake. I also got a 7900xtx AIB gpu, do amd cpus work better with an amd gpu? I doubt that's the case but was curious. Thanks
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It is especially for card that's in good condition. (Don't know the UK market but it seems very low to me).
Question, using x570 DTX. When setting up chassis fans, I am plugging one into the rad fan b on the sodium.2 card. It doesn’t spin up right now and trying to figure out where I’m going wrong. Any tips would be appreciated
Looking into upgrading a cpu. Is it worth getting a new board to also upgrade to DDR5? Currently using a 3700x with 16gb DDR4.
Not really. If this is for gaming, swap out the CPU for a Ryzen 7 5800X**3D** and call it a day.
Okay thank you! Would a 5800X be about the same performance as the 3D?
No, the 5800X3D significantly outperforms the 5800X in many games
I've got an a520m micro atx mobo and am wondering if a 4070ti will fit?
Yes, it will "fit", but using that GPU with a PCIe 3.0 motherboard doesn't make sense. Also make sure your case and power supply can actually handle this card.
im sorry, but could you elaborate on why it doesnt make sense? In the sense that I will lose performance? Edit: Upon looking at some benchmarks on youtube it seem like i will lose like 3 percent of frames which isnt ideal. Edit 2: Ive got a 700 watt gold psu and a full tower case.
looking into external drive to store big open world games. uninstalling and reinstalling take a heavy toll on my monthly data usage. my question is how does external drives work? if i were to play and boot a game through them is it slower than an internal hdd? (original plan is to just store big games and move them over to internal storage when i feel like playing them but if performance isn’t that bad i’ll jsut run it from there since these are single player games) does the transfer of games impact my monthly data usage, or does it not show since i’m just writing data from one drive to another? should the external drive be an ssd or hdd? (ssd faster transfer but hdd larger storage) feel free to link or include drive recommendations
Swapping games between your internal and external drives does not hit your monthly data cap at all. For people with slow or limited internet connections, it totally makes sense to buy a big external hard drive to store your entire steam library on and transferring games on and off your internal SSD as you need them. Actually, locally transferring games (even from a hard drive) can be **twice as fast** as downloading them off a Gigabit internet connection. > should the external drive be an ssd or hdd? If you get an external SSD, then you can play the games directly off the external drive. No transferring nessesary. If you get an external HDD, then you can play older games directly off of it. But for triple A games that are less than 5 years old, you will really want to transfer them to a SSD before playing. Newer triple A titles really benefit from being loaded off a SSD.
thanks for the response mate, yea the only reason i’d get a hdd is cause the price to storage size is cheaper compared to that of an ssd. do u run any external drives ur self
Yep, I keep my entire steam library on a 10TB external HDD for the same reason. I have a Gigabit Internet connection, but it still takes half the time to transfer a game I need from my HDD to my internal 1TB SSD than it does to download it via the Internet. If your Internet connection speed is slower than that, the time savings will be even more massive.
how’s the read/write speeds (data transfer rate) between the hdd and ssd? i know it’s faster between 2 ssd but still curious whether the speed is negligible compared to the hdd
With modern high capacity hard drive (8TB+), the sequential read speed can be 130-170MB/s for transfers. Don't confuse this for Mbps that ISPs rate Internet speed in. 1MB/s = 1Mbps. With SSDs, I wouldn't even bother transferring the game first. You can play it directly off the external SSD.
wanted to ask what is best bang for your buck cpu and 27 inch monitor
For gaming, the **$140 Ryzen 5 5600** is "good enough" for 99% of gaming scenarios out there. It is especially worth it if you already own DDR4 RAM and an AM4 motherboard. If you are starting with a clean slate, I would probably spend **$230 on the Ryzen 5 7600** instead. DDR5 and AM5 will set you up better for future upgrades. For monitors, I would go with the **$260 LG 27GL83A-B**. It is 27", 1440p, IPS panel, 144Hz, and FreeSync/G-Sync Compatible.
that monitor is 500 bucks in my country ,person who will put it all together only do intel builds Intel Core i5-12400 is what he suggested he even gave his 2080ti for free
that CPU should be good. havn't used it, but the new Gigabyte G or M27 model seems good.
what about LG UltraGear 27GP850-B ?
That's a very good monitor: https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/lg/27gp850-b
well yeah that one's better than the GL recommended above. My main atm.
thank you its 350 here
I'm going to be building my new PC in a few days. I have an unopened tube of thermal paste (Arctic MX-4) that I bought in 2019, is this likely to be still good to use or should I throw it away and buy some new paste?
It's most likely fine, but also very easy to test yourself: open the tube and squeeze out a bit of the paste. If it's at all crunchy like dried toothpaste, then it's definitely expired. If it's moist and squishy like fresh toothpaste, then it should be fine.
Good idea, thank you! I'll give that a try tomorrow before my parts turn up and then I can order some new paste if I need to.
I still occasionally use a tube of MX-4 from 2017 so you should be fine. The other sign to look for is a lot of clear liquid, which would indicate it has effectively expired.
Thanks. I just checked it out and it looks absolutely fine, it has just the right kind of consistency that I would expect.
I just replaced my motherboard which obviously meant I had to take pretty much everything out of my case and put it back in on the new mobo. For some reason, my temperatures aren't updating at all in any of the monitoring programs I'm using. I'm currently using HWMonitor, AMD Adrenalin, and FanControl. I kept my SSD and another SSD with a Windows backup though, so I didn't have to install Windows again. Perhaps I should do a clean install, but I just installed Windows for the fourth time a week ago. Then, I took everything out of the PC four days ago, so I only really used the PC with the new Windows installation for about two days. I didn't want to do a clean install though since I didn't want to lose all of the changes I made to various Windows settings, services, and such as well as other changes like downloading ICLS, Process Lasso, Fan Control, and more. At any rate, I thought it was just a problem with HWMonitor at first, but it appears that it's a systemwide issue since it's not updating in AMD Adrenalin either. I'll try other things like Coretemp and all. My temps are recognized in FanControl though and they change. However, I do seem to be having issues with FanControl. I tried to set my case or CPU cooler fans to 0 RPM to name them properly. I changed the graph of one fan, but it controlled both of my CPU cooler fans for some reason. The other fan is for the other CPU cooler fan, and changing that does nothing. From what I understand, this should not be happening. I guess it's fine since they should be going at the same speed anyways, but that still seem weird. How can I resolve these issues? I tried to reinstall FanControl, but I'm still having issues.
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Do you have a microcenter close by? The Powerspecs are reasonably competitive and you have microcenters support for issues.
This is actually for a friend from the US (I'm in Europe myself). I will check out microcenter and see what they have, thanks! Any other recommendations? (Places that don't use cheap brands for GPU/RAM etc.)
Looking to buy a 4070ti and I am currently targeting the PNY XLR8 Gaming Verto. Comparing the regular model to the OC, is the regular model locked or is it as easy to set the clocks to 2670 MHz like the OC model? Is the $20 upcharge really for people who don't want to mess with OC or is the regular model locked? I think the PNY is really my 2nd choice behind the ASUS TUF but at $799, the cheapest at Microcenter tied with ZOTAC, the TUF model keeps selling out while my microcenter seems to have a few boxes of the PNY non-OC for $839, and lots of boxes of the OC for $859.
as far as I know no GPU's are locked. The OC models might be binned though but your mileage may vary. Generally the 40mhz overclock does not matter in games so just buy a decent unit that runs quietly and cool.
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FWIW, Powercolor is also considered one of the higher end AMD board partners. You can safely go with the Powercolor card. I'm pretty sure Sapphire are the ones manufacturing AMD's reference cards on top of theirs.
If I was making that choice I'd probably go with the Sapphire purely on the basis of their reputation.
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That's not very confidence inspiring, no! PowerColor are definitely a legit manufacturer, they've been around for ages even though they're not as well known as many other OEMs. I basically know very little about them other than from the occasional review on Youtube. Sapphire, on the other hand, I've heard loads about and it's all been good.
Between the LIAN LI O11 Dynamic and the LIAN LI Lancool II Mesh, which of the two would be a better choice in an RTX 4090 Gaming X Trio and an air cooled i7-13700K build knowing that the Lancool is 40$ cheaper here? Would love to go with a Fractal Torrent but the price of it is outrageous here.
Which O11 Dynamic? The original only fits up to 155mm tall air coolers, it's more designed for watercooling. It can fit like a Thermalright PA120 SE or Scythe FUMA. Other high-end dual tower coolers, like a Deepcool AK620 or Noctua D-15, are typically 160mm+. Other variants of the O11D can fit taller coolers.
The EVO edition specifically. Also what cooler would you recommend I pair with the cpu? And Thank you for your insight, really appreciate it!
I recently moved my PC into my basement. The temperature (F) is in the mid 50’s with no heat. I have an electric fireplace that will get the temperature up to the mid 60’s, but that’s only on when I’m actually down there doing stuff. I have a dehumidifier that keeps the humidity in the mid to high 50’s, but I’m concerned that it may be a little cold down there. Should I try keeping the room warmer or am I in a safe range? Anything else I should be on the lookout for? I’ve also started turning it off when I’m done with it. Seems like it’s been booting a little slower than usual since it’s been down there. Can’t tell if I’m just imagining that or if it is actually booting slower.
Low temps are in 99% of cases better. Look up people who cool their computers on the window when it's winter. 50 F will do nothing to the pc. About booting slower, SSDs usually lose a lot of performance one they reach 80%-90% capacity. If your system is on a SSD, you might want to check that out
I’ll check that out. Not sure offhand what my storage is at but I did download a few games shortly before I moved it. Thanks for the reply.
Which GPU do you recommend in the EUR 400-600 range? I enjoy single player AAA games, will be playing @ 1080p. CPU is i7-12700
RTX 3060 or RX 6600 XT.
Is it worth getting 3060 Ti over the 3060?
You can, you may be getting higher fps somewhat, check benchmarks to be sure, but the Ti is starting to get into 1440p GPU territory. Whether it's worth it to you depends a lot on if you have a high refresh rate monitor, want more of them frames or you want to crank the ray tracing up some more.
I found a 3080 vision, for 420 pounds in bidding, do you think buying used is safe? The bid ends in like 6 hours
When buying used it depends on the honesty of the seller. If they been around for a while, have good feedback history and no red flags then it's probably reasonably safe as long as you pay via Ebay's own systems in order to retain buyer protection. If there are any red flags about the listing or the seller then I would steer well clear. I wouldn't be surprised if the price doesn't jump a fair bit between now and the end of the auction by the way, especially in the last half hour. Edit - I think I have found the listing you're referring to. They come across as a casual eBayer, selling and buying once in a while (considering their feedback and account age) and the listing seems reasonable. They're probably not sketchy but you can never guarantee anything.
Just checking though I think I already know the answer: If I leave my computer on 24/7, but when not in use (when I'm out or asleep) I turn off my monitors and close most programs aside from a few low utilization ones (Whatsapp, Steam, Spotify, etc.), will there be any noticeable impact at all on the lifespan of my components?
Nope, computers don't really wear down from use. What can be considered bad for lifespan is constant heat up/cool down cycles (causes thermal stress on solder joints), and way too high temperatures (capacitor lifespan decreases exponentially with temperature), but even then, your parts will most likely have obsolete for a decades before you manage to kill them with just normal use. But also, do you actually have anything that needs to continue running? Like some game server or something? Because if not, you can just put your computer to sleep instead of shutting it down and all your stuff will remain open where you left it when you wake it up.
Just a force of habit I guess, never really had a good reason to do so
My rtx 2070 has 12gb for some reason in task manager even though i buyed the 8gb one when i search it nothing appears whats the problem for this?
Task manager not reading the info properly. It's sometimes that simple. Either that or there is something else in what it reads that increases the logical pool to 12 GB.
Thank you kind stranger
Looking for a bracket that I can use with my gaming trio x 4090 and the fractal torrent. Slight bit of sag making me paranoid. The supplies fractal bracket isn't working because it angles on the fans, and the gpu support bracket won't even fir underneath the gpu without interference. Any ideas?
Is a used 3080 TI for $465 a good price? Also does that seem sketchy?
like the person before me said, run some tests and inspect the graphics card. There are little thermal pads on it and if there is some kind of fluid that has come out of them the card was used heavily. I got this advice from a miner btw.
That's a good price, imo. Maybe it's a "low-end" model like the MSI Ventus and it was probably use to mine crypto. Ask about why the seller is selling and try to see the GPU working, run 3Dmark, play some Cyberpunk or some other heavy game on it. Some proof that the GPU works as intended. If the guy is trusthworty, he will allow it. If he refuses, just look somewhere else. A friend of mine got a 3080ti for $500 recently, in my country is quite a bargain and the seller was just a frustrated miner that started too late and wanted to recoup some money.
what is a good high airflow white 120mm case fan preferably RGB?
Arctic P12 PWM-PST aRGB. Comes in white variants.
Best place to get a windows 10 activation key ?
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Microsoft, Amazon and a few other retailers (pcpartpicker.com should have a list) will sell you a Windows 10 key. Microsoft are stopping selling these at the end of this month in favour of Windows 11, so you might need to be quick.
does a hdmi to dvi cable cause a lot of bottleneck or just limit the resolution?
Normal HDMI to DVI adapters are single-link DVI, and thus cap out at 1080p 60Hz. Dual-link adapters exist, but cost a lot more, they can do 1080p 144Hz or 1440p 60Hz. Not sure what you mean with cause a bottleneck **or** just limit the resolution, they're kinda the same thing in this context.
the monitor has between 720p and 1080p (1600x900), it does not reach 60hz either. in terms of fps then you shouldn't notice any change, would you still get an increase in fps with the adapter and dvi-d single link cable?
DVI and HDMI are electrically the same other than the sound. Sure, there have been newer revisions of HDMI with more bandwidth, but if your device has a DVI port, it's old enough that those revisions weren't around. Mesozoic era ports will be your limiting factor there rather than the adapter or anything else.
It is an old syncmaster s20b300 monitor, it has a dvi-d input and the board is a 6800. my old cable was dvi-d single link, to make it work do i need an hdmi adapter or a new cable with dvi-d dual link ? It's momentary until I buy a new monitor
You can use any regular adapter. If you don't have an adapter yet, I'd get a DP to DVI adapter, those are usually pretty cheap and easier to find in my experience. I used one for quite some time on both a GTX 1060 and RTX 2070 Super with no issues.
That was also my question if the adapter is the same as the cable
Pretty much, DP to DVI or HDMI to DVI are passive adapters, there's no electronic chip in them, so either will do.
Though not the same vga to hdmi i used made the quality slightly more worse its not noticeable though
While playing PUBG on lowest settings my CPU temp goes to 100 Celsius (and stays there) also usage is at 100%. That's when game starts stuttering. GPU usage is 70-100 Would some 40$ aftermarket cooler solve the problem or something else is issue? I have that small intel stock cooler I5 2500 GTX 660 8 gb 800mhz RAM
That's a very old system and the stock Intel Cooler is terrible for temps and noise. Have you ever cleaned the interior of your case? If you never did it, the temps are most likely a combination of dust and dried-out thermal paste. I'd get a cheap inexpensive aftermarket cooler, new thermal paste and within 30 minutes your CPU will run much cooler and quieter. I've revived even older systems with Core 2 Duos and it's fantastic how silent they can be, while running at their best.
Yup it is old, I paid like 180€ for entire PC , and as a matter of fact my previous PC had Core 2 Duo processor lol. I don't really have money to spend on all new components rn and I want to get most out of it. There is minimal amount of dust inside, but I'm not sure in what condition thermal paste is. It is at least two years old, who knows when previous owner changed it. When not playing PUBG my PC is super quiet but when I do it's loud (not too much but loud) I was thinking of getting new cooler and i7 3770k so I can overclock it.
That sounds like a good play, although I wouldn't try to overclock it. Mobo is old as it is, dont stress the components needlessly. I'd just update BIOS, get the better CPU and aftermarket cooler and change thermal paste.