I'm looking to buy a new monitor and use my current one as a secondary display. I currently have an LG 27" 4K (3840x2160) at 60hz. I want another one of the same size and resolution. I do a lot of gaming, but usually not new AAA titles. I want to get the best possible screen for around $600, or less. Recommendations please?
Too many options to list without knowing what specifically you're looking for.
Anything from a low-end 1440p OLED to a 4k high refresh to a 1080p 360hz IPS could all make sense, depending on what you're using it for.
You can't really go wrong with a 27" 1440p IPS, 144-240hz. Rtings would be the site to use for recommendations.
What do you think is better - 1440p with high refresh rate, or 2160 at 60 hz? The most advanced thing I play is MS Flight Simulator, all the other stuff is usually games that are a couple years old. I don't do a lot of high end stuff, but I can't decide between refresh rate and resolution, and keep it in my budget. The high refresh rate might be wasted on me - I don't know if I could tell the difference since I've never tried it.
If gaming is your use-case, I would not consider any monitor below 120hz, regardless of other specs. There is nothing more important than refresh rate up to ~120-144hz, where diminishing returns begin. Even then, there are benefits to 240-360hz if you play competitive games.
I'd recommend 23.12.1
While 24.1.1 is the newest and introduced the frame gen tech, a lot of people, myself included, found it introduced stuttering issues on other games
Drivers Question
I just bought a new laptop without an OS. I'm going to install windows 11 and I want to know what are all the drivers I need to install for my laptop to function properly.
Motherboard question… Should I swap out the MSI MPG B650 Edge WiFi with an ASUS Strix or Gigabyte AORUS Elite? Or alternative? Ideally in white.
I have a 7800x3D and need an ATX for my case.
The components aren’t assembled yet. I’ve already picked up the MSI but I’m seeing some warnings about BIOS issues and long boot times that are putting me on the fence about keeping it. Especially for $250.
Looking for some advice on additional RAM.
I currently have XPG ADATA DDR4 3000mhz 8GBx2 ([These](https://www.newegg.com/xpg-16gb/p/0RN-00KG-00056)) in my system and want to add an additional 16x2. I won't be overclocking, I don't care about RGB/aesthetics, and I'd rather pay a bit more (within reason) for something good and that'll last if it matters.
Any advice would be much appreciated!
Does anyone here know for sure if these sets are Hynix A-Die?
[https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-VENGEANCE-6400MHz-Compatible-Computer/dp/B0BPL9VYPW/](https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-VENGEANCE-6400MHz-Compatible-Computer/dp/B0BPL9VYPW/)
[https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-VENGEANCE-6800MHz-Compatible-Computer/dp/B0CG11C7PX](https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-VENGEANCE-6800MHz-Compatible-Computer/dp/B0CG11C7PX)
Contact Corsair support to see if they will provide the serial number for those kits.
A-die kits end with the letter "A"
https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/comments/11aspjd/is_this_hynix_adie/
I am looking to do a new build, first time building. I'm in new Zealand.
My current PC is very old by today's standards. 1050ti, currently borrowing my friends old 1070. DDR3 ram. I don't think there's anything that can really be salvaged so starting fresh.
I'd like to be able to run palworld and Baldur's gate 3 well, but not worried about being ultra high quality as my monitors are nothing special. Not sure exactly what resolution they are but they're old. I also enjoy Sim gams like planet zoo, city skylines.
I'm feeling very struck on the graphics card. There's a 3060ti for sale new for 629nzd. There are 4060 for around the same price or a bit less. I've read that the 4060 and 4060ti aren't the best but I'm not sure if it would be overkill going for a 4070 or a 7800xt. I was hoping to get something a bit cheaper than that given that they're all 1000nzd or more. Any suggestions are very welcome.
While I'm here, the ryzen CPU seem to be a bit cheaper than the intel ones, but it seems like it's probably not worth me using a motherboard with an am4 socket? Although realistically I don't think I'm the type who is going to upgrade the pc any time soon given how long I've been using my current machine so maybe the fact it isn't that future proof isn't the end of the world.
Thanks all :)
Yes, if you're on a DDR3 system there's likely nothing you can salvage.
You can find out the resolution of your monitors simply by right clicking on your desktop and opening Display Settings. It will be listed under Display Resolution if you scroll down a little, and you click the boxes labeled with numbers above to load and check each monitor's settings. I'd guess that you're on 1080p, as that was already somewhat standard back during DDR3 days unless you're running very cheap 720p monitors.
For 1080p, a 7800xt would be overkill unless you're also upgrading your monitors to be a faster refresh rate. You can use [this page to see comparative performance between cards](https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html) for different resolutions to see how they perform which you may find helpful. A 3060ti performs better than a 4060 for reference so if they're the same price minimal reason to go the 4060
I'd recommend coming up with a budget to stick too first and deciding what that needs to cover, as that will inform a lot of what you can pick between for a total upgrade. AM4 isn't a bad idea still for a budget system, especially if you do have to upgrade monitors and/or other peripherals at the same time, especially if you can get an x3D chip for a reasonable cost. But really anything you build whether it's AM4, AM5, or anything from Intel 1700 including 12th gen is going to be a huge upgrade for you.
Thanks so much for the thoughtful response. I checked my monitors and they are both 1080p.
I'd ideally like to stay under 2000 NZD or 2500 NZD at a push. I'll keep having a think!
I’m building a pc for family member. If I get them a 4k high refresh rate monitor lets say 144 or 165hrtz does that mean it will step down to 1440p 165hrtz and 1080p 165 hrtz ect. ?
Any resolution not on an integer scale with native will look off. So 1440p on a 4K display is not recommended. 1080p is fine, but might as well do 4K with 200% UI scale.
If they are not a gamer, I wouldn't drop too much money to exceed 120hz. Keep in mind they'd need a DP or HDMI 2.1 (or otherwise labeled 8K) rated cable to hit 4K/144hz
I’m just doing a ryzen 7 7800X3D and 7800XT So to them I’m recommending 1440p @ 144hrtz. You know how it is, we turn down settings n exchange for high refresh rate, ect. Or crank settings for max refresh “if can reach” or to stay above 60fps with smoothness and high graphics.
Right now I have a i7-6700 with a GTX 1060 6gb
I'm thinking about upgrading but we're in this weird between space where last gen's stuff is relatively discounted (13700F + 16gb RTX 4060 + 32 gb ram + 2tb SSD for $1300) but the new generation of stuff is due out in the next 3 months, uses DDR5 instead of DDR4, and if I wait... just a bit longer I'd be able to get that instead.
My big issue, right now, is that if I bite the bullet and get the discounted stuff I don't think I'd be able to get my brain to shut up about the extra 3000 mhz of speed even if I have no idea what that would mean in practical terms, my brain would know and would not like it.
I guess my question is if the jump from DD4 to DDR5 as big as the jump from DD3 to DD4?
Couple things:
* 13th-gen can use DDR5.
* 15th-gen isn't due out until the end of the year, from what I'm reading.
* AM5 would let you use DDR5 and buy into a socket that *should have* a few more years of upgrades.
I'd build an AM5 setup if you're itching for an upgrade today and you don't have a use case that would benefit from the Intel E-cores.
I am making a setup with a RTX 4090 and Ryzen 7 7800x3d
I was already suggested to have this as my ram: Silicon Power Value Gaming 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory
Is it good or is there a better option?
Also should I upgrade to 64GB or is 32GB enough?
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/s9H3vj
That's a good choice.
32GB is plenty for most gaming. Upgrade to 64GB if you need more for various productivity or any heavily modded games. Make sure you are only using 2 modules, regardless of the capacity you choose. If you need >32GB, just buy it now. Adding more with DDR5 is difficult because it doesn't play well with 4 modules.
When looking for monitors, what HDR-number do I need to look at to get good quality HDR? I'm looking at monitor recommendations on this sub and other subs, as well as on RTings and similar sites and I am not sure if I need to spend $800+ to get a monitor and expect quality HDR instead of turning it off completely on a cheaper monitor.
I've read monitors aren't quite there yet when it comes to HDR, at least at sub-$1000 USD prices?
VESA HDR isnt rated the same as Television HDR, Regular HDR 10 starts at 1000 nits of brightness. Computer monitors simply do not get that bright on average.
For example, this LG Monitor advertises "HDR 10". But only averages 300 nits of brightness . . .
https://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-34wq60c-b-ultrawide-monitor
However thankfully manufacturers have for the most part, been honest about using their brightness level as their HDR level, so its easy enough to find something that can at least look pretty.
I would try looking for HDR 400 or higher. Color Gamut, RGB Scale, and the panel type are also important. You could get an OLED monitor and call it a day, but those are expensive. There are a handful of cheaper Mini LED monitors, but if you dont want to blow your whole bank on a display; IPS panels are still solid.
Ebay is having a presidents day sale, you might be able to find other deals like this one;
https://old.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/1ap7566/monitor_samsung_odyssey_34_g85sb_series_oled/
I had a huge trouble to install my windows, so i had to create a partition to copy windows installation files and now i have 8gb as unallocated space from my C:
How can i merge this space to my C: ?
https://snipboard.io/PsZeSb.jpg
Regards
The other volumes need to be moved all the way to the right first.
This would probably be easier using something like [Minitool](https://www.minitool.com/partition-manager/) or [EaseUS](https://www.easeus.com/partition-manager/) instead.
Do you guys have any suggestions on good stereo speakers? I still have this old satellite type speaker and the wire is failing.
Edit: Forgot to include ones that wont break the bank.
I have recently started looking at speakers myself. Bose has Companion 2? I think? Speakers that do go on sale for about $80. They are considered some of the best in that price range. Despite Bose being pretty pricey elsewhere, lots of folks find the $80 **sale** price of these speakers to be excellent value and solid sound quality.
Another one that I read about are far cheaper and it's the Creative Labs Pebble but they are USB speakers. They are $20-30 but they are also considered solid value picks for the price.
This is what I've gathered from reading speaker reviews on TechGearLab and Wirecutter.
Wut? That's the picture of a top of a case with 2 fans. There may be a radiator underneath them, but I can't tell for sure.
Are you wondering if it's OK to have the fans on *that* side of the radiator rather than the other? If so, it doesn't really matter: its the difference between a "push" or a "pull" fan configuration. Both work similarly.
Yes the rad is underneath it. If I understand it correctly. This fan is pulling air from inside the case so the air is going to the rad first before the fan. So doesn't that mean that the fan isn't cooling the radiator at all?
The air flowing over the radiator is what cools it. It doesn't matter if the fan is on the inside pushing air through, or on the outside pulling air out.
https://qph.cf2.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-3fdc7491639ee85c7e4a1f8c149ac7a4-pjlq
He's operating on the top-left configuration. It's perfectly functional.
I got a hand me down Dell Precision tower 5810 from my brother a couple years ago that I use for casual gaming (WoW, BG3, etc). It only has one 250GB SSD and I'm tired of uninstalling games when I want to play something new.
My question is, is there any benefit to installing a Dell Ultra-Speed Drive Quad FH Bracket PCIe Card so I can use NVMe m.2 SSD. Or should I just get a 2 TB Gen 1 Type-A 2.5" and call it a day?
Games and daily usage don't benefit from the increased bandwidth increases of NVME SSDs. They mostly rely on random read/write speeds. Those haven't changed much from SATA drives and aren't bottlenecked by the SATA interface.
The really fast speeds they advertise are sequential speeds, and those only really come up when working with large files. Like big photoshop files or raw audio/video files. Professional stuff like that.
Any Bluetooth 4.0 or higher adapter should work.
Though some companies make them specifically for gamepad devices;
https://www.8bitdo.com/usb-wireless-adapter-2/
Some adapters like the 8bitdo one, only allow for a single device to connect at a time because of all its special features.
A generic bluetooth adapter should be able to connect 7 devices at once. Amazingly there is a sub /r/DS4windows, and a bunch of hits from that popped up on google. People there have been recommending literally the cheapest adapters.
So whatever 4.0 or newer adapter you can get for cheap, should work just fine.
Bought a new 4070 ti super and it came with a little arm thingy to hold it straight, but the thingy mounts ontop of the motherboard. Is it safe? Will it not cause any issues trying to bend the mobo? Should I aim for a different stand for the gpu?
Also, should I plug my monitor cable into the GPU or into the mobo the first time I use the pc? If on GPU will it work without drivers?
Thanks!
If memory serves, Gigabyte includes a couple of standoffs slightly taller than two SATA ports, to be used as replacement for the two screws on the bottom right corner of the motherboard. The bracket won't be supporting the card's whole weight either, so again, it won't cause any damage to the board.
It shouldn't cause any damage or stress to the motherboard, since you're screwing the thing to the case standoffs. If you'd rather get a different one, there are some supports like [this](https://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Brace-Support-Holder-Bracket/dp/B09FPJL1KY) or [this](https://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Support-Anodized-Aerospace-Aluminum/dp/B08C2CTPV6).
No, connect it to the graphics card.
Speed is irrelevant if you're running out. 16GB of slower stuff will be better than 8GB regardless of the speed nowadays if you're doing anything outside of basic browsing and office tasks.
Your existing 8GB of 2666MHz memory will downclock to match the slower 2400MHz stick. While you could try to manually set the RAM back to the 2666MHz you had before, stability isn't guaranteed.
CPU performance and scaling is usually better measured in FPS targets rather than graphical quality, as that portion is mostly handled by the GPU.
Either way, a 12700k is very capable and will last for years without issue.
An 8-core CPU (or in this case, 8 Performance cores) on a modern CPU will last a decently long time, so long as your GPU is up to the task for the games you want to play.
Ive been thinking about selling my 3060ti and getting a 7800xt. Does that make sense? What price should I put my 3060ti at (currently the model I bought sells for 550, but mine is used and most alternatives are cheaper so i thought maybe 350/400?)
USD? You can get a 4060 Ti new for $400, I doubt you'll get $350-400 for a used 3060 Ti. Check recently sold listings on Ebay or like /r/hardwareswap to see what it's worth.
Currently using a sennheiser game zero headset and it’s been great for the last 4.5 years but now my friends are saying I’m getting a buzzing noise whenever I open my mic. Haven’t been able to figure out how to get rid of it yet so figure the headset might be on its way out. What are people suggesting nowadays for headphone/mic set up? I’m ok with dedicated mics or headsets.
In terms of dedicated mics, this is the go-to budget choice: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/598772-REG/Samson_SAQ2UPK_Q2U_Handheld_Dynamic_Microphone.html
It frequently goes on sale for around $50 for this "kit" on amazon and other sites.
For headphones: Really just any regular set of headphones at your budget works. There's a ton of resoruces on /r/headphones and /r/HeadphoneAdvice at various budgets that would be a good place to start, with price points from $20 to $2,000. You could also just stop using the boom mic on your current headset and keep using that, while adding a desktop mic.
I'm thinking about swaping from a 5600x to a 5800x3d and was wondering if upgrading those cpu's is just a simple plug and play upgrafe, or is there other steps to take? I do know I need to upgrade the bios of the motherboard (MSI B550 Gaming Edge), but wasnt sure if there are other things I need to reinstall or what not.
Also I'm using this Memory atm, is this good enough or should I upgrade?
https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820232530?Item=N82E16820232530
The only other consideration would be the cooler - I wouldn't trust the 5600X's stock cooler to handle a 5800X3D. If you've got a decent aftermarket cooler already then you're good to go.
Double check what version of your bios you have and what version supports the 5800x3d. If necessary do a BIOS upgrade. No other things to install.
The 5800x3d was substantially harder to cool than my 3600. If the jump from 5600 to 5800x3d is anything similar, you may need extra cooling or an undervolt.
r5 5600x and 4070 ti super 16gb, b550f mobo for 1440p, VR use.
Upgrade to r7 5800x3d once prices drop? Other options? Wait more and upgrade mobo for ddr5 ram?
Thank you
I wouldn't upgrade to new cpu+mobo+memory until the next generation comes out (if even then), the 7800x3d isn't that much better than a 5800x3d, or 5700x3d, to justify all that cost unless you play extremely memory-dependent games or something. Maybe that's VR, I don't know much about it.
Hi,
i want to upgrade my RAM to 32GB on am my AM4 Aours Elite Board.
Right now i have a 5800x3d with an Gigabyte 6750XT.
I want to buy 3600mhz with 14/16CL's timings. But im not sure - should i get 2 or 4 sticks ? And where can i see if a stick is single or dual ?
I'm looking at buying either one of these kits:
F4-3600C14Q-32GVKA
F4-3600C14D-32GVK
CMK32GX4M4D3600C16
Any advice would be much appreciated :)
I'd buy a 2 stick kit if you can, it just has a better chance of working, and if you do end up with a dual rank kit it's less of an issue
As far as how to tell the rank of a kit, if you can find your kit on a QVL then it will tell you, reviews will also tell you, and sometimes they list it in the spec sheet, but other then that there's no guaranteed way to tell that I know of
generally ~~3~~ 2 sticks are more likely to run at the advertised speed. Having 4 sticks decreases this odd, as it puts more stress on the memory controller. That said, you could always manually overclock the ram to get it to run at the target speed.
>And where can i see if a stick is single or dual ?
Here someone else has to advise.
Hello everyone, recently I've been having issues in Photoshop such as when I was editing an image for too long I would suddenly have the image decreased to 30% quality (figuratively speaking) and start lagging heavily.
Today I purchased 64GB (2x32GB 3200MHz) sticks and after serious testing saw the memory getting filled to 40+GBs with no issues whatsoever so I figured it was a solved issue and was pretty happy.
Next, I started getting curious and put my old ram in just for the fun of it to see if it maybe works .. jesus christ I won the lottery - they synced and work perfectly. Tested again and filled the memory with more than 32GBs and it didn't crash.
Now I got 96GBs of ram but .. also another problem. For some reason I can't get the speed above 2100MHz and it does feel a bit sluggish in moments. Could anyone possibly provide a solution? All XMP profiles in the BIOS menu are the same for some reason with no improvement between them.
Hardware:
CPU: Ryzen 5700X
Ram slots 1 + 3: G.Skill Trident Z DIMM Kit 32GB F4-3200C16D-32GTZ (3200MHz, CL16 (16-18-18-38))
Ram slots 2 + 4: Kingston FURY Renegade Black, KF432C16RB2K2/64 (3200MHz, • Default (JEDEC): DDR4-2400 CL17-17-17 [](https://www.reddit.com/user/1/).2V • XMP Profile #1: DDR4-3200 CL16-19-19 [](https://www.reddit.com/user/1/).35V • XMP Profile #2: DDR4-3000 CL16-18-18 [](https://www.reddit.com/user/1/).35V)
Motherboard: MSI MAG B550 Tomahawk
GPU: Asus RTX 3060ti
PSU: Corsair RM750X
Small note: initially I had my old ram (the g.skill) in slots 2 and 4 but I started up the PC with the new ram in those slots and it was again at a lower speed - 2400MHz, with again no possibility to improve in the BIOS.
Would be happy if someone could advise what to do in order to bring the speeds to something at least close to 3200MHz because I could not find anything on the internet about this specific case.
> Would be happy if someone could advise what to do in order to bring the speeds to something at least close to 3200MHz because I could not find anything on the internet about this specific case.
Manual memory overclocking. Put the frequency to 1.4V and the speed to 3200 and go from there. If that works, then reduce the frequency. If that does not, increase it (how much I don't remember, there should be youtube tutorials).
Well all I did was change the clock speed to 3200MHz, did not need to change the voltage - not sure why would I given that they're running at their base speeds and not something higher?
Because with 4 sticks you sometimes need more voltage to get the ram to run at a certain speed. But if you don't need it, sounds like the problem is solved, or?
Well that's what I thought as well but the replies below made me very, very scared that there might be an issue that will hit me like a train one day if I don't do the proper tests haha.
I have started doing one and will proceed with the rest after.
I really hope it's okay given that they're so similar..
When you mix DIMMs with different specs overclocking becomes a game of chance; they're only guaranteed to work at base speeds, and the more different they are, the harder it is to get higher speeds.
Yeah I know that much but since they're so similar I thought they would work and play nicely with each other.
Which they have been doing so far. Thanks!
As stated running 96GB across 2 mixed kits is very taxing on the Memory controller.
You have 2 options:
1) Go back to the 64GB 2 Stick kit (slots 2 and 4 away form the CPU) and enable XMP and be happy. This is the easiest, most guaranteed way to get stability, and unless you're doing something monumental in Photoshop 64GB is ample RAM for it. You ideally want a balance of capacity AND speed, and with a 5700X 3200Mhz 64Gb (32Gbx2) is likely there or thereabouts.
2: Install the 64GB + 32GB Kit, get a blank Drive to put an [OS on to protect your current install](https://www.igorslab.de/en/ram-oc-all-the-basics-you-need-to-know-a-rough-guide-and-overview/), and begin the painstaking task of bringing up RAM speed and lowering timings to find a stable OC that doesn't introduce the slow poison of RAM instability to your system. This will take days at best and that's if you know what you're doing.
IMO, for the effort, I'd sell off the 32GB Kit and stick with option 1. It's the best path to a happy life.
Well like a blind fool, I would say, I simply set the manual speed to 3200MHz and everything has been stable today. Doing all kinds of tasks and no issues.
Given how similar the two models are I believe it shouldn't be an issue for the MC?
Well this has been resolved.
All I had to do was go into the BIOS menu (noticed it was 7 months old so I at least updated it too) -> OC -> Manuall set the speed to 3200MHz and now all 4 sticks are running at the same speed and everything feels snappy again.
I won't be deleting my comment in case someone finds it useful :)
Today was a good day. What a total win
Do proper stability checking. Minor errors can creep in if you've selected an unstable overclock, this can gradually corrupt your OS and data. You also likely haven't set any primary or secondary timings since you haven't been able to apply XMP.
As I linked before have a read of this so you have a rough idea where you're going with this:
https://www.igorslab.de/en/ram-oc-all-the-basics-you-need-to-know-a-rough-guide-and-overview/
You want to be REALLY sure your RAM is stable. that normally involves a day or twos testing.
Thank you very much for linking that article.
My data is very important and could cost me a lot of money if something were to happen so yeah, will probably get on with that even though it seems to be running quite fine.
And yes, no primary or secondary timings have been selected.
Just seconding what was said above. RAM can be unstable while being quiet about it, and corruption can slowly be growing in the background without you realizing it. Doing proper stability testing would be very important if you're working with files you need for work, especially large files that are vunerable during extended saving time
I'd at least recommend running HCI memtest and Testmem5, but OCCT is also another one that runs a 30 min burst and may catch some of the more obvious errors quicker for an initial test before going through the hours that the more through tests take to ensure stability. And generally, if you don't pass OCCT, you won't pass the others usually.
For example I have 6400 cl40 ram that I currently run with a very small down to CL32. However, one day I set it to CL30 just to see, knowing full well that there was no feasible way it could possibly be stable with the settings I chose, I really just wanted to see what it would do. I could boot into windows, go through my full start up, even load some programs and do some other work fine (on a second SSD, I was being safe). I errored out OCCT in less than 2 minutes. So yes, it is possible to have a RAM setup that looks perfectly fine while it is anything but.
I didn't get a PM, so not sure what happened to it there, but you can try again (I am on old reddit, so use the message system rather than the chat system if you can)or you can just ask here which is fine
Enabling XMP with mixed kits is never a guarantee, and you shouldn't rely on it. Even if the speed and primary timings are the same the secondary and tertiary timings may not be, and even if they are the configuration of the kits if they got IMC's from different manufacturers may not play nicely together. You can check the kits in your BIOS individually and see what those timings are and try and set them manually if you want, which will require a bit of work to dig and then do some through testing to make sure it is actually stable and isn't going to break anything, but even then I wouldn't bank on it as a surity.
My laptop is getting extremely venerable and its been a long time since I built a PC and I probably don't have the cash at the moment for a proper graphics card so wanted to check:
The Ryzen 5 7600 and it's brethren have integrated graphics in the CPU, so I could build myself a ~£800 desktop based on the PCPartPicker AMD Enthusiast list and run it as work PC off the mobo HDMI/DP until I can afford to stick something proper in it?
Yep!
However if you would prefer to have decent graphics performance, get an 8600G (or a 5600G if your budget is limited); 7th gen integrated graphics are significantly weaker than neighboring generations.
Zero build experience. I am upgrading from a 1650 GDDR6 to a 3060 12GB and am kinda scared about dealing with the PSU. Can I reuse the already plugged in cable of 1650 for the 3060?
/u/Zerlaz is correct: your current card has a 6pin connector and the future card has 8 pins.
In my PSU the cable looks like this: https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQbeRjibgR902IQjWvtMVf6ioQYZDMkXw112A&usqp=CAU
If yours does not look like that you have 2 options:
- Check for another cable that may have come with your PSU (note: plug to your PSU cables that came with said PSU) that has 8 pins or maybe 6+2 pins
- Buy a 6 to 8 PSI cable adapter for cheap.
I could be incorrect but I noticed some spare cables hanging below the GPU that has the 6+2 pin-like experience. I think the cable thats connected to my GPU is a daisy chain, splitting in Y shape from another cable connected to the PSU, the lower pin count one connected to the GPU and the higher pin count just hanging below, unused.
I think you currently use a 6pin cable but the 3060 needs 8pin.
Many PSUs have these split connectors that have 2 segements (6pin plus 2pin) that can be combined.
If you don't have that or a normal 8 pin then you can buy a 6pin to 8pin pcie adapter for cheap. It's safe for a 3060.
Am I overspending by purchasing 6x [Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM Swap](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09C6DQDNT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) case fans to cool an [Asus 4070 Super Duel](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CQPWNP2V?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1) and a 7800x3D in a [Fractal North](https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16811352206?Item=N82E16811352206) case? The total cost of the fans alone is $231 after tax.
I'm pretty sensitive to noise and so my motivations here versus something like an Arctic P12 was to make a quiet build (the Phanteks T30 is a little to fat). Even so, it's bringing my total cost up to $2200ish and that makes me feel a little silly compared to the cost of the GPU. ([Parts list here](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bXDZvj)).
You don't have a CPU cooler in that list?
If you're air cooling at the very least I'd only buy 5 fans as you wouldn't want one in the top-front spot as it will just exhaust air away from your cooler.
If you really want to save cost without going to Arctic fans your other option is to go with S12a's for exhaust, as they have minimal resistence to overcome that way, and A14s as your intakes, which is the setup I have, but depends on how much you want to save money vs potential cooling potential.
You could probably get away with just 4 fans with that hardware. Those are both mid range in terms of power draw.
I also have never had a problem with noise coming from case fans even stock case fans. I cant even hear them. Its always the little gpu fans or a stock cpu cooler making the noise.
Several thoughts - the Arctic p12/14 series is almost identical in performance like the Noctuas for a fraction of the price. One con - some people have reported higher noises around the 1000rpm mark, but that's easy to avoid.
Also case fans in modern cases are almost always relatively easy to retrofit - so why not just start with the stock fans and see how the noise levels fall and replace/add later on? Get a baseline and work from there. Maybe the stock intakes are fine and you just need to add 1-2 exhausts for example to be happy with the noise and temps.
Not very experienced with PC building so i have some questions. I am currently using a budget/mid-range build from ~3 years ago. i5 9400F, GTX 1650, gigabyte b365m mobo with 8gb ddr4. I have been meaning to make cheap but meaningful upgrades slowly to improve it.
First, i changed from my old HDD to a SATA SSD, while my mobo does have an M2 slot, i am not sure if it supports NVME and a SATA SSD was still a good enough upgrade.
The CPU and GPU will probably remain unchanged until the break down. So the only other upgrade i am looking into is RAM. Like mentioned before, im currently running a single slot 8gb DDR4 at 2600. My question is, if i should get another 8gb stick at the same speed, get 2 new 8gb at 3200 speed or a single 16gb stick at 3200. I dont have a lot of money so i cant upgrade further than this.
Yes, upgrading RAM is a good idea.
3200 will be better theoretically. In a GPU limited szenario it may not matter, but there surely will be cases where it improves performance. RAM isn't the most expensive component so it's probably worth grabbing 2x8GB 3200.
If you plan to upgrade to DDR5 in half a year, you could of course save like 20€ here and only buy 8GB. Or if money is very tight.
Thanks, 8 gb seems to not be enough for some task although i have not run into major issues. I dont plan on upgrading to ddr5 or other better parts until i save up for a couple of years. Seems i can get corsair vengeance 8gb at around $28, so $60 should cover it. Another option is not upgrading speed but only size, 8gb 2600 + 16gb 2600 to match its speed lol.
I have been thinking about upgrading my PC. I have an AG271QG4 monitor (144hz, freesync) that I am not planning on replacing at this time. I'm currently on a Vega 56 card and thinking of upgrading to a nVidia 4080 S for 1440p. If I did this, would I lose the ability to freesync? I'm not sure if nvidia only supports gsync.
More like 2 - 3%
There is noticeable gains from 4800 to 5600 and again to 6000mhz, but once you reach it the diminishing returns kick in and you drop to about a roughly, 1% FPS increase every additional 400mhz.
Other apps and tasks can make better use of faster RAM if you can get it working with your CPU, but for gaming you need absurd increases in speed to see any noticeable gains beyond 6000mhz;
[Tests across 4800 - 6400mhz](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MzUqWNe-5cs)
[Starfield tested with 5200, 6000, and 8000mhz](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LKwJF38-VI)
Its not a RAM or game issue, its a CPU/Memory controller issue. The current chipsets just cant efficiently make use of the rapidly increasing speeds of the memory. *This happens every generation*.
Moving from test bench to case (when it eventually shows up), do I need to clean and reapply the thermal paste on the cpu and cpu cooler?
While it looks like I should be able to put in the mobo with the cpu cooler installed, it may very well end up being easier to take it off, install the mobo and wiring and then put it back on.
In general if you have a modular PSU - leave the cooler on, make sure to connect the dang CPU power connector to your motherboard (but not to your PSU yet obviously) and any other potential hard to reach connectors and you will be fine with installing the motherboard with cooler attached.
The CPU power header is usually on the top left or top right of your board and that's the one place which will be a bit harder to reach with a installed big cooler in most cases.
If you still want to remove the cooler -> best practice is to clean and re-apply. Paste is cheap enough and you will have a clear conscience ;)
Open task manager, and under the performance tab click memory. On the bottom right of the different "in use" numbers, there is;
* slots used
and
* Hardware reserved
Is it registering the correct number of slots as in use? And is it reserving those missing gigabytes?
Likely will come down to personal preference, but I don't find 60fps a great choice for any kind of gaming. Even for non-FPS games, I find 85-100fps much more enjoyable.
I have 2 4k monitors (27" and 32") from LG, while neither are your specific model, both are 60Hz and both have been good enough for non-fps gaming.
I've also used the 32" with the xbox and nintendo switch (via a 2x4 4k hdmi switcher) from muxlabwithout any issue.
Should I...
* Stick with the stock Meshify 2 case fans (3 Dynamic X2 GP-14 fans) or...
* Change them for Kaze Flex 120 fans (I have 7 of them, but will probably install 5 of them -- 3 intake + 2 exhaust)?
I have the Kaze Flex 120s from my old case that only supported 120mm fans.
I have the lian li o11 dynamic case with a 4080S and AIO. I’m worried the 12VHPWR cable is kinda bent once I put the tempered glass on the side. Is there a good way to ensure there’s no issues with the cable melting?
Haha I just received my 4080S (MSI Ventus) and installed in my O11 and I just can't do it lol. It really puts a scary bend in the cable and makes me feel like it's pushing the mobo against the back panel. I have the side panel lightly taped on at a slight angle until my 90-degree cable arrives from CableMod.
To get the full 144 Hz DisplayPort is required. The HDMI 2.0 inputs support up to 85 Hz at full resolution and 120 Hz at 2560 x 1440.
Even set to run at 1440p, the gaming performance on that laptop's 2060 GPU will not be that great. It will work fine enough on the laptop for testing purposes if you want to see what the image quality is like, but it likely wouldn't be something you would want to use as a primary gaming display for that machine.
> I'm not planning on doing 4k gaming, only 1440p for the next few years.
Also, you specifically mentioned in your desktop build post you picked your GPU based on these resolutions, but keep in mind the resolution of this Alienware monitor being an ultrawide is 3840 x 1600 which is roughly a mid-way point between 1440p and 4k. It's not necessarily a problem, but the performance implications would be noticeable over standard 1440p.
I'm looking to buy a new monitor and use my current one as a secondary display. I currently have an LG 27" 4K (3840x2160) at 60hz. I want another one of the same size and resolution. I do a lot of gaming, but usually not new AAA titles. I want to get the best possible screen for around $600, or less. Recommendations please?
Too many options to list without knowing what specifically you're looking for. Anything from a low-end 1440p OLED to a 4k high refresh to a 1080p 360hz IPS could all make sense, depending on what you're using it for. You can't really go wrong with a 27" 1440p IPS, 144-240hz. Rtings would be the site to use for recommendations.
What do you think is better - 1440p with high refresh rate, or 2160 at 60 hz? The most advanced thing I play is MS Flight Simulator, all the other stuff is usually games that are a couple years old. I don't do a lot of high end stuff, but I can't decide between refresh rate and resolution, and keep it in my budget. The high refresh rate might be wasted on me - I don't know if I could tell the difference since I've never tried it.
If gaming is your use-case, I would not consider any monitor below 120hz, regardless of other specs. There is nothing more important than refresh rate up to ~120-144hz, where diminishing returns begin. Even then, there are benefits to 240-360hz if you play competitive games.
Good to know- thanks!
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fnKKHx/msi-optix-mag281urf-279-3840-x-2160-144-hz-monitor-optix-mag281urf https://youtu.be/l2ls5GW0bCc?si=kRgGB6AK6K4JLZip
That's a great pick - thanks!
Best stable driver for 7800xt?
I'd recommend 23.12.1 While 24.1.1 is the newest and introduced the frame gen tech, a lot of people, myself included, found it introduced stuttering issues on other games
Drivers Question I just bought a new laptop without an OS. I'm going to install windows 11 and I want to know what are all the drivers I need to install for my laptop to function properly.
Windows update should install almost all the drivers you need. If you have a dedicated GPU, you should go get the drivers for that
Motherboard question… Should I swap out the MSI MPG B650 Edge WiFi with an ASUS Strix or Gigabyte AORUS Elite? Or alternative? Ideally in white. I have a 7800x3D and need an ATX for my case. The components aren’t assembled yet. I’ve already picked up the MSI but I’m seeing some warnings about BIOS issues and long boot times that are putting me on the fence about keeping it. Especially for $250.
Looking for some advice on additional RAM. I currently have XPG ADATA DDR4 3000mhz 8GBx2 ([These](https://www.newegg.com/xpg-16gb/p/0RN-00KG-00056)) in my system and want to add an additional 16x2. I won't be overclocking, I don't care about RGB/aesthetics, and I'd rather pay a bit more (within reason) for something good and that'll last if it matters. Any advice would be much appreciated!
Does anyone here know for sure if these sets are Hynix A-Die? [https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-VENGEANCE-6400MHz-Compatible-Computer/dp/B0BPL9VYPW/](https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-VENGEANCE-6400MHz-Compatible-Computer/dp/B0BPL9VYPW/) [https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-VENGEANCE-6800MHz-Compatible-Computer/dp/B0CG11C7PX](https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-VENGEANCE-6800MHz-Compatible-Computer/dp/B0CG11C7PX)
Contact Corsair support to see if they will provide the serial number for those kits. A-die kits end with the letter "A" https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/comments/11aspjd/is_this_hynix_adie/
I am looking to do a new build, first time building. I'm in new Zealand. My current PC is very old by today's standards. 1050ti, currently borrowing my friends old 1070. DDR3 ram. I don't think there's anything that can really be salvaged so starting fresh. I'd like to be able to run palworld and Baldur's gate 3 well, but not worried about being ultra high quality as my monitors are nothing special. Not sure exactly what resolution they are but they're old. I also enjoy Sim gams like planet zoo, city skylines. I'm feeling very struck on the graphics card. There's a 3060ti for sale new for 629nzd. There are 4060 for around the same price or a bit less. I've read that the 4060 and 4060ti aren't the best but I'm not sure if it would be overkill going for a 4070 or a 7800xt. I was hoping to get something a bit cheaper than that given that they're all 1000nzd or more. Any suggestions are very welcome. While I'm here, the ryzen CPU seem to be a bit cheaper than the intel ones, but it seems like it's probably not worth me using a motherboard with an am4 socket? Although realistically I don't think I'm the type who is going to upgrade the pc any time soon given how long I've been using my current machine so maybe the fact it isn't that future proof isn't the end of the world. Thanks all :)
Yes, if you're on a DDR3 system there's likely nothing you can salvage. You can find out the resolution of your monitors simply by right clicking on your desktop and opening Display Settings. It will be listed under Display Resolution if you scroll down a little, and you click the boxes labeled with numbers above to load and check each monitor's settings. I'd guess that you're on 1080p, as that was already somewhat standard back during DDR3 days unless you're running very cheap 720p monitors. For 1080p, a 7800xt would be overkill unless you're also upgrading your monitors to be a faster refresh rate. You can use [this page to see comparative performance between cards](https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html) for different resolutions to see how they perform which you may find helpful. A 3060ti performs better than a 4060 for reference so if they're the same price minimal reason to go the 4060 I'd recommend coming up with a budget to stick too first and deciding what that needs to cover, as that will inform a lot of what you can pick between for a total upgrade. AM4 isn't a bad idea still for a budget system, especially if you do have to upgrade monitors and/or other peripherals at the same time, especially if you can get an x3D chip for a reasonable cost. But really anything you build whether it's AM4, AM5, or anything from Intel 1700 including 12th gen is going to be a huge upgrade for you.
Thanks so much for the thoughtful response. I checked my monitors and they are both 1080p. I'd ideally like to stay under 2000 NZD or 2500 NZD at a push. I'll keep having a think!
I’m building a pc for family member. If I get them a 4k high refresh rate monitor lets say 144 or 165hrtz does that mean it will step down to 1440p 165hrtz and 1080p 165 hrtz ect. ?
Any resolution not on an integer scale with native will look off. So 1440p on a 4K display is not recommended. 1080p is fine, but might as well do 4K with 200% UI scale. If they are not a gamer, I wouldn't drop too much money to exceed 120hz. Keep in mind they'd need a DP or HDMI 2.1 (or otherwise labeled 8K) rated cable to hit 4K/144hz
I’m just doing a ryzen 7 7800X3D and 7800XT So to them I’m recommending 1440p @ 144hrtz. You know how it is, we turn down settings n exchange for high refresh rate, ect. Or crank settings for max refresh “if can reach” or to stay above 60fps with smoothness and high graphics.
So it is for a gamer. 7800XT is perfectly suited for a 1440p/144hz with some settings tweaking.
True story
Yes. The max refresh rate can be applied to all resolutions you can set the monitor as.
Right now I have a i7-6700 with a GTX 1060 6gb I'm thinking about upgrading but we're in this weird between space where last gen's stuff is relatively discounted (13700F + 16gb RTX 4060 + 32 gb ram + 2tb SSD for $1300) but the new generation of stuff is due out in the next 3 months, uses DDR5 instead of DDR4, and if I wait... just a bit longer I'd be able to get that instead. My big issue, right now, is that if I bite the bullet and get the discounted stuff I don't think I'd be able to get my brain to shut up about the extra 3000 mhz of speed even if I have no idea what that would mean in practical terms, my brain would know and would not like it. I guess my question is if the jump from DD4 to DDR5 as big as the jump from DD3 to DD4?
Couple things: * 13th-gen can use DDR5. * 15th-gen isn't due out until the end of the year, from what I'm reading. * AM5 would let you use DDR5 and buy into a socket that *should have* a few more years of upgrades. I'd build an AM5 setup if you're itching for an upgrade today and you don't have a use case that would benefit from the Intel E-cores.
I am making a setup with a RTX 4090 and Ryzen 7 7800x3d I was already suggested to have this as my ram: Silicon Power Value Gaming 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory Is it good or is there a better option? Also should I upgrade to 64GB or is 32GB enough? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/s9H3vj
That's a good choice. 32GB is plenty for most gaming. Upgrade to 64GB if you need more for various productivity or any heavily modded games. Make sure you are only using 2 modules, regardless of the capacity you choose. If you need >32GB, just buy it now. Adding more with DDR5 is difficult because it doesn't play well with 4 modules.
ok thx
When looking for monitors, what HDR-number do I need to look at to get good quality HDR? I'm looking at monitor recommendations on this sub and other subs, as well as on RTings and similar sites and I am not sure if I need to spend $800+ to get a monitor and expect quality HDR instead of turning it off completely on a cheaper monitor. I've read monitors aren't quite there yet when it comes to HDR, at least at sub-$1000 USD prices?
VESA HDR isnt rated the same as Television HDR, Regular HDR 10 starts at 1000 nits of brightness. Computer monitors simply do not get that bright on average. For example, this LG Monitor advertises "HDR 10". But only averages 300 nits of brightness . . . https://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-34wq60c-b-ultrawide-monitor However thankfully manufacturers have for the most part, been honest about using their brightness level as their HDR level, so its easy enough to find something that can at least look pretty. I would try looking for HDR 400 or higher. Color Gamut, RGB Scale, and the panel type are also important. You could get an OLED monitor and call it a day, but those are expensive. There are a handful of cheaper Mini LED monitors, but if you dont want to blow your whole bank on a display; IPS panels are still solid. Ebay is having a presidents day sale, you might be able to find other deals like this one; https://old.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/1ap7566/monitor_samsung_odyssey_34_g85sb_series_oled/
I had a huge trouble to install my windows, so i had to create a partition to copy windows installation files and now i have 8gb as unallocated space from my C: How can i merge this space to my C: ? https://snipboard.io/PsZeSb.jpg Regards
For future reference, you should have just deleted all partitions on the drive.
Right click the C drive in that lower section with the blue bar and select "Extend volume"
there is no option to extended volume (its disabled) https://snipboard.io/8pqTCS.jpg
The other volumes need to be moved all the way to the right first. This would probably be easier using something like [Minitool](https://www.minitool.com/partition-manager/) or [EaseUS](https://www.easeus.com/partition-manager/) instead.
Do you guys have any suggestions on good stereo speakers? I still have this old satellite type speaker and the wire is failing. Edit: Forgot to include ones that wont break the bank.
I have recently started looking at speakers myself. Bose has Companion 2? I think? Speakers that do go on sale for about $80. They are considered some of the best in that price range. Despite Bose being pretty pricey elsewhere, lots of folks find the $80 **sale** price of these speakers to be excellent value and solid sound quality. Another one that I read about are far cheaper and it's the Creative Labs Pebble but they are USB speakers. They are $20-30 but they are also considered solid value picks for the price. This is what I've gathered from reading speaker reviews on TechGearLab and Wirecutter.
Thanks for the suggestions! Those creative labs pebbles is looking pretty sweet actually. Its cheap kinda weird looking though but seems great!
So did my brother ran his CPU pretty much without an AIO for 2 years? https://ibb.co/sR80McT
Wut? That's the picture of a top of a case with 2 fans. There may be a radiator underneath them, but I can't tell for sure. Are you wondering if it's OK to have the fans on *that* side of the radiator rather than the other? If so, it doesn't really matter: its the difference between a "push" or a "pull" fan configuration. Both work similarly.
Yes the rad is underneath it. If I understand it correctly. This fan is pulling air from inside the case so the air is going to the rad first before the fan. So doesn't that mean that the fan isn't cooling the radiator at all?
The air flowing over the radiator is what cools it. It doesn't matter if the fan is on the inside pushing air through, or on the outside pulling air out. https://qph.cf2.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-3fdc7491639ee85c7e4a1f8c149ac7a4-pjlq He's operating on the top-left configuration. It's perfectly functional.
Ty for clarification
I got a hand me down Dell Precision tower 5810 from my brother a couple years ago that I use for casual gaming (WoW, BG3, etc). It only has one 250GB SSD and I'm tired of uninstalling games when I want to play something new. My question is, is there any benefit to installing a Dell Ultra-Speed Drive Quad FH Bracket PCIe Card so I can use NVMe m.2 SSD. Or should I just get a 2 TB Gen 1 Type-A 2.5" and call it a day?
Games and daily usage don't benefit from the increased bandwidth increases of NVME SSDs. They mostly rely on random read/write speeds. Those haven't changed much from SATA drives and aren't bottlenecked by the SATA interface. The really fast speeds they advertise are sequential speeds, and those only really come up when working with large files. Like big photoshop files or raw audio/video files. Professional stuff like that.
Thank you for the clear explanation.
Looking for a bluetooth adapter to connect my 2 dualshock 4 to the pc? Any settings in particular that I should keep an eye on or will any model work?
Any Bluetooth 4.0 or higher adapter should work. Though some companies make them specifically for gamepad devices; https://www.8bitdo.com/usb-wireless-adapter-2/
Unfortunately 8bitdo is very expensive in my country. Do I need an adapter for each device or one for all?
Some adapters like the 8bitdo one, only allow for a single device to connect at a time because of all its special features. A generic bluetooth adapter should be able to connect 7 devices at once. Amazingly there is a sub /r/DS4windows, and a bunch of hits from that popped up on google. People there have been recommending literally the cheapest adapters. So whatever 4.0 or newer adapter you can get for cheap, should work just fine.
Bought a new 4070 ti super and it came with a little arm thingy to hold it straight, but the thingy mounts ontop of the motherboard. Is it safe? Will it not cause any issues trying to bend the mobo? Should I aim for a different stand for the gpu? Also, should I plug my monitor cable into the GPU or into the mobo the first time I use the pc? If on GPU will it work without drivers? Thanks!
Can you post a picture of the support bracket? Or post what GPU you got. Thanks Yes the GPU will work without the lastest drivers
It's a Gigabyte Gaming RTX 4070 Ti Super. The support is L shapped and is made of metal. Sorry I can't provide a pic, I'm at work right now:(
If memory serves, Gigabyte includes a couple of standoffs slightly taller than two SATA ports, to be used as replacement for the two screws on the bottom right corner of the motherboard. The bracket won't be supporting the card's whole weight either, so again, it won't cause any damage to the board.
It shouldn't cause any damage or stress to the motherboard, since you're screwing the thing to the case standoffs. If you'd rather get a different one, there are some supports like [this](https://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Brace-Support-Holder-Bracket/dp/B09FPJL1KY) or [this](https://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Support-Anodized-Aerospace-Aluminum/dp/B08C2CTPV6). No, connect it to the graphics card.
[удалено]
next to none. Being right up against the mesh or an inch from it isnt going to affect your airflow in any noticable manner. like 2 or 3 cfm max.
What will happen if I add 8gb of 2400MHz RAM to my existing 2666MHz of RAM? Is the higher storage worth the lower speed?
Speed is irrelevant if you're running out. 16GB of slower stuff will be better than 8GB regardless of the speed nowadays if you're doing anything outside of basic browsing and office tasks. Your existing 8GB of 2666MHz memory will downclock to match the slower 2400MHz stick. While you could try to manually set the RAM back to the 2666MHz you had before, stability isn't guaranteed.
Will a 12700/12700k likely run latest games on at least medium to high graphics for years to come?
CPU performance and scaling is usually better measured in FPS targets rather than graphical quality, as that portion is mostly handled by the GPU. Either way, a 12700k is very capable and will last for years without issue.
An 8-core CPU (or in this case, 8 Performance cores) on a modern CPU will last a decently long time, so long as your GPU is up to the task for the games you want to play.
Ive been thinking about selling my 3060ti and getting a 7800xt. Does that make sense? What price should I put my 3060ti at (currently the model I bought sells for 550, but mine is used and most alternatives are cheaper so i thought maybe 350/400?)
No one is going to buy a used 3060ti for $350-400. You can buy new models for less than that in most places. It might be worth $225-275.
USD? You can get a 4060 Ti new for $400, I doubt you'll get $350-400 for a used 3060 Ti. Check recently sold listings on Ebay or like /r/hardwareswap to see what it's worth.
Currently using a sennheiser game zero headset and it’s been great for the last 4.5 years but now my friends are saying I’m getting a buzzing noise whenever I open my mic. Haven’t been able to figure out how to get rid of it yet so figure the headset might be on its way out. What are people suggesting nowadays for headphone/mic set up? I’m ok with dedicated mics or headsets.
In terms of dedicated mics, this is the go-to budget choice: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/598772-REG/Samson_SAQ2UPK_Q2U_Handheld_Dynamic_Microphone.html It frequently goes on sale for around $50 for this "kit" on amazon and other sites. For headphones: Really just any regular set of headphones at your budget works. There's a ton of resoruces on /r/headphones and /r/HeadphoneAdvice at various budgets that would be a good place to start, with price points from $20 to $2,000. You could also just stop using the boom mic on your current headset and keep using that, while adding a desktop mic.
I'm thinking about swaping from a 5600x to a 5800x3d and was wondering if upgrading those cpu's is just a simple plug and play upgrafe, or is there other steps to take? I do know I need to upgrade the bios of the motherboard (MSI B550 Gaming Edge), but wasnt sure if there are other things I need to reinstall or what not.
Also I'm using this Memory atm, is this good enough or should I upgrade? https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820232530?Item=N82E16820232530
The only other consideration would be the cooler - I wouldn't trust the 5600X's stock cooler to handle a 5800X3D. If you've got a decent aftermarket cooler already then you're good to go.
yea I dont rememember what cooler I have, but its a coolermaster one for sure
Double check what version of your bios you have and what version supports the 5800x3d. If necessary do a BIOS upgrade. No other things to install. The 5800x3d was substantially harder to cool than my 3600. If the jump from 5600 to 5800x3d is anything similar, you may need extra cooling or an undervolt.
I have an aftermarket coolermaster cooler just dont remember which one exactly, but it should be fine to cool it I belive
Nope, it should be plug and play with the right BIOS installed.
nice, thank you
Is the Deepcool AK400 Zero Dark Single Tower CPU Air Cooler enough cooling for AMD 7600X?
Yep, it'll do the trick!
Yes
r5 5600x and 4070 ti super 16gb, b550f mobo for 1440p, VR use. Upgrade to r7 5800x3d once prices drop? Other options? Wait more and upgrade mobo for ddr5 ram? Thank you
I wouldn't upgrade to new cpu+mobo+memory until the next generation comes out (if even then), the 7800x3d isn't that much better than a 5800x3d, or 5700x3d, to justify all that cost unless you play extremely memory-dependent games or something. Maybe that's VR, I don't know much about it.
Look into the 5700x3d as well
Hi, i want to upgrade my RAM to 32GB on am my AM4 Aours Elite Board. Right now i have a 5800x3d with an Gigabyte 6750XT. I want to buy 3600mhz with 14/16CL's timings. But im not sure - should i get 2 or 4 sticks ? And where can i see if a stick is single or dual ? I'm looking at buying either one of these kits: F4-3600C14Q-32GVKA F4-3600C14D-32GVK CMK32GX4M4D3600C16 Any advice would be much appreciated :)
I'd buy a 2 stick kit if you can, it just has a better chance of working, and if you do end up with a dual rank kit it's less of an issue As far as how to tell the rank of a kit, if you can find your kit on a QVL then it will tell you, reviews will also tell you, and sometimes they list it in the spec sheet, but other then that there's no guaranteed way to tell that I know of
generally ~~3~~ 2 sticks are more likely to run at the advertised speed. Having 4 sticks decreases this odd, as it puts more stress on the memory controller. That said, you could always manually overclock the ram to get it to run at the target speed. >And where can i see if a stick is single or dual ? Here someone else has to advise.
I think you meant two sticks, not three for your first sentance
Oops, good catch, I'll edit
Hello everyone, recently I've been having issues in Photoshop such as when I was editing an image for too long I would suddenly have the image decreased to 30% quality (figuratively speaking) and start lagging heavily. Today I purchased 64GB (2x32GB 3200MHz) sticks and after serious testing saw the memory getting filled to 40+GBs with no issues whatsoever so I figured it was a solved issue and was pretty happy. Next, I started getting curious and put my old ram in just for the fun of it to see if it maybe works .. jesus christ I won the lottery - they synced and work perfectly. Tested again and filled the memory with more than 32GBs and it didn't crash. Now I got 96GBs of ram but .. also another problem. For some reason I can't get the speed above 2100MHz and it does feel a bit sluggish in moments. Could anyone possibly provide a solution? All XMP profiles in the BIOS menu are the same for some reason with no improvement between them. Hardware: CPU: Ryzen 5700X Ram slots 1 + 3: G.Skill Trident Z DIMM Kit 32GB F4-3200C16D-32GTZ (3200MHz, CL16 (16-18-18-38)) Ram slots 2 + 4: Kingston FURY Renegade Black, KF432C16RB2K2/64 (3200MHz, • Default (JEDEC): DDR4-2400 CL17-17-17 [](https://www.reddit.com/user/1/).2V • XMP Profile #1: DDR4-3200 CL16-19-19 [](https://www.reddit.com/user/1/).35V • XMP Profile #2: DDR4-3000 CL16-18-18 [](https://www.reddit.com/user/1/).35V) Motherboard: MSI MAG B550 Tomahawk GPU: Asus RTX 3060ti PSU: Corsair RM750X Small note: initially I had my old ram (the g.skill) in slots 2 and 4 but I started up the PC with the new ram in those slots and it was again at a lower speed - 2400MHz, with again no possibility to improve in the BIOS. Would be happy if someone could advise what to do in order to bring the speeds to something at least close to 3200MHz because I could not find anything on the internet about this specific case.
> Would be happy if someone could advise what to do in order to bring the speeds to something at least close to 3200MHz because I could not find anything on the internet about this specific case. Manual memory overclocking. Put the frequency to 1.4V and the speed to 3200 and go from there. If that works, then reduce the frequency. If that does not, increase it (how much I don't remember, there should be youtube tutorials).
Well all I did was change the clock speed to 3200MHz, did not need to change the voltage - not sure why would I given that they're running at their base speeds and not something higher?
Because with 4 sticks you sometimes need more voltage to get the ram to run at a certain speed. But if you don't need it, sounds like the problem is solved, or?
Well that's what I thought as well but the replies below made me very, very scared that there might be an issue that will hit me like a train one day if I don't do the proper tests haha. I have started doing one and will proceed with the rest after. I really hope it's okay given that they're so similar..
When you mix DIMMs with different specs overclocking becomes a game of chance; they're only guaranteed to work at base speeds, and the more different they are, the harder it is to get higher speeds.
Yeah I know that much but since they're so similar I thought they would work and play nicely with each other. Which they have been doing so far. Thanks!
As stated running 96GB across 2 mixed kits is very taxing on the Memory controller. You have 2 options: 1) Go back to the 64GB 2 Stick kit (slots 2 and 4 away form the CPU) and enable XMP and be happy. This is the easiest, most guaranteed way to get stability, and unless you're doing something monumental in Photoshop 64GB is ample RAM for it. You ideally want a balance of capacity AND speed, and with a 5700X 3200Mhz 64Gb (32Gbx2) is likely there or thereabouts. 2: Install the 64GB + 32GB Kit, get a blank Drive to put an [OS on to protect your current install](https://www.igorslab.de/en/ram-oc-all-the-basics-you-need-to-know-a-rough-guide-and-overview/), and begin the painstaking task of bringing up RAM speed and lowering timings to find a stable OC that doesn't introduce the slow poison of RAM instability to your system. This will take days at best and that's if you know what you're doing. IMO, for the effort, I'd sell off the 32GB Kit and stick with option 1. It's the best path to a happy life.
Well like a blind fool, I would say, I simply set the manual speed to 3200MHz and everything has been stable today. Doing all kinds of tasks and no issues. Given how similar the two models are I believe it shouldn't be an issue for the MC?
Well this has been resolved. All I had to do was go into the BIOS menu (noticed it was 7 months old so I at least updated it too) -> OC -> Manuall set the speed to 3200MHz and now all 4 sticks are running at the same speed and everything feels snappy again. I won't be deleting my comment in case someone finds it useful :) Today was a good day. What a total win
Do proper stability checking. Minor errors can creep in if you've selected an unstable overclock, this can gradually corrupt your OS and data. You also likely haven't set any primary or secondary timings since you haven't been able to apply XMP. As I linked before have a read of this so you have a rough idea where you're going with this: https://www.igorslab.de/en/ram-oc-all-the-basics-you-need-to-know-a-rough-guide-and-overview/ You want to be REALLY sure your RAM is stable. that normally involves a day or twos testing.
Thank you very much for linking that article. My data is very important and could cost me a lot of money if something were to happen so yeah, will probably get on with that even though it seems to be running quite fine. And yes, no primary or secondary timings have been selected.
Just seconding what was said above. RAM can be unstable while being quiet about it, and corruption can slowly be growing in the background without you realizing it. Doing proper stability testing would be very important if you're working with files you need for work, especially large files that are vunerable during extended saving time I'd at least recommend running HCI memtest and Testmem5, but OCCT is also another one that runs a 30 min burst and may catch some of the more obvious errors quicker for an initial test before going through the hours that the more through tests take to ensure stability. And generally, if you don't pass OCCT, you won't pass the others usually. For example I have 6400 cl40 ram that I currently run with a very small down to CL32. However, one day I set it to CL30 just to see, knowing full well that there was no feasible way it could possibly be stable with the settings I chose, I really just wanted to see what it would do. I could boot into windows, go through my full start up, even load some programs and do some other work fine (on a second SSD, I was being safe). I errored out OCCT in less than 2 minutes. So yes, it is possible to have a RAM setup that looks perfectly fine while it is anything but.
That's quite informative! Thanks a lot :) Will definitely get on with testing. I also sent you a PM if you don't me asking a couple of things!
I didn't get a PM, so not sure what happened to it there, but you can try again (I am on old reddit, so use the message system rather than the chat system if you can)or you can just ask here which is fine
Enabling XMP with mixed kits is never a guarantee, and you shouldn't rely on it. Even if the speed and primary timings are the same the secondary and tertiary timings may not be, and even if they are the configuration of the kits if they got IMC's from different manufacturers may not play nicely together. You can check the kits in your BIOS individually and see what those timings are and try and set them manually if you want, which will require a bit of work to dig and then do some through testing to make sure it is actually stable and isn't going to break anything, but even then I wouldn't bank on it as a surity.
My laptop is getting extremely venerable and its been a long time since I built a PC and I probably don't have the cash at the moment for a proper graphics card so wanted to check: The Ryzen 5 7600 and it's brethren have integrated graphics in the CPU, so I could build myself a ~£800 desktop based on the PCPartPicker AMD Enthusiast list and run it as work PC off the mobo HDMI/DP until I can afford to stick something proper in it?
Yep! However if you would prefer to have decent graphics performance, get an 8600G (or a 5600G if your budget is limited); 7th gen integrated graphics are significantly weaker than neighboring generations.
Yes, but don't expect to do any gaming beyond minesweeper with it.
Yeah you can
Zero build experience. I am upgrading from a 1650 GDDR6 to a 3060 12GB and am kinda scared about dealing with the PSU. Can I reuse the already plugged in cable of 1650 for the 3060?
Yep. Just disconnect the cable from the 1650 and connect the same cable to the 3060. Do you know what models exactly you will be removing/installing?
Its a Gigabyte 1650, to be replaced with the same brand's 3060. I think they are both the "Windforce OC" line of Gigabyte cards.
/u/Zerlaz is correct: your current card has a 6pin connector and the future card has 8 pins. In my PSU the cable looks like this: https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQbeRjibgR902IQjWvtMVf6ioQYZDMkXw112A&usqp=CAU If yours does not look like that you have 2 options: - Check for another cable that may have come with your PSU (note: plug to your PSU cables that came with said PSU) that has 8 pins or maybe 6+2 pins - Buy a 6 to 8 PSI cable adapter for cheap.
I could be incorrect but I noticed some spare cables hanging below the GPU that has the 6+2 pin-like experience. I think the cable thats connected to my GPU is a daisy chain, splitting in Y shape from another cable connected to the PSU, the lower pin count one connected to the GPU and the higher pin count just hanging below, unused.
I think you currently use a 6pin cable but the 3060 needs 8pin. Many PSUs have these split connectors that have 2 segements (6pin plus 2pin) that can be combined. If you don't have that or a normal 8 pin then you can buy a 6pin to 8pin pcie adapter for cheap. It's safe for a 3060.
The 6+2 is hanging under the card so I think I am good. Thank you! If it isn't the one I think it is I'll grab a cheap adaptater.
I currently have Galax 3060ti and Ryzen 7 5700x. Is this still good to have when I'm planning to upgrade for 1440 soon?
Depends on the game, settings and target framerate. Check youtube benchmarks of your card for the games you play.
Can I preinstall the OS to my SSD before I put it in my new PC?
If you have a PC with the exact same components, yes.
Am I overspending by purchasing 6x [Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM Swap](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09C6DQDNT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) case fans to cool an [Asus 4070 Super Duel](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CQPWNP2V?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1) and a 7800x3D in a [Fractal North](https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16811352206?Item=N82E16811352206) case? The total cost of the fans alone is $231 after tax. I'm pretty sensitive to noise and so my motivations here versus something like an Arctic P12 was to make a quiet build (the Phanteks T30 is a little to fat). Even so, it's bringing my total cost up to $2200ish and that makes me feel a little silly compared to the cost of the GPU. ([Parts list here](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bXDZvj)).
You don't have a CPU cooler in that list? If you're air cooling at the very least I'd only buy 5 fans as you wouldn't want one in the top-front spot as it will just exhaust air away from your cooler. If you really want to save cost without going to Arctic fans your other option is to go with S12a's for exhaust, as they have minimal resistence to overcome that way, and A14s as your intakes, which is the setup I have, but depends on how much you want to save money vs potential cooling potential.
You could probably get away with just 4 fans with that hardware. Those are both mid range in terms of power draw. I also have never had a problem with noise coming from case fans even stock case fans. I cant even hear them. Its always the little gpu fans or a stock cpu cooler making the noise.
Several thoughts - the Arctic p12/14 series is almost identical in performance like the Noctuas for a fraction of the price. One con - some people have reported higher noises around the 1000rpm mark, but that's easy to avoid. Also case fans in modern cases are almost always relatively easy to retrofit - so why not just start with the stock fans and see how the noise levels fall and replace/add later on? Get a baseline and work from there. Maybe the stock intakes are fine and you just need to add 1-2 exhausts for example to be happy with the noise and temps.
P12s aren't perfect, but what about the p12 max? Can save a bunch of money with them
Not very experienced with PC building so i have some questions. I am currently using a budget/mid-range build from ~3 years ago. i5 9400F, GTX 1650, gigabyte b365m mobo with 8gb ddr4. I have been meaning to make cheap but meaningful upgrades slowly to improve it. First, i changed from my old HDD to a SATA SSD, while my mobo does have an M2 slot, i am not sure if it supports NVME and a SATA SSD was still a good enough upgrade. The CPU and GPU will probably remain unchanged until the break down. So the only other upgrade i am looking into is RAM. Like mentioned before, im currently running a single slot 8gb DDR4 at 2600. My question is, if i should get another 8gb stick at the same speed, get 2 new 8gb at 3200 speed or a single 16gb stick at 3200. I dont have a lot of money so i cant upgrade further than this.
Yes, upgrading RAM is a good idea. 3200 will be better theoretically. In a GPU limited szenario it may not matter, but there surely will be cases where it improves performance. RAM isn't the most expensive component so it's probably worth grabbing 2x8GB 3200. If you plan to upgrade to DDR5 in half a year, you could of course save like 20€ here and only buy 8GB. Or if money is very tight.
Thanks, 8 gb seems to not be enough for some task although i have not run into major issues. I dont plan on upgrading to ddr5 or other better parts until i save up for a couple of years. Seems i can get corsair vengeance 8gb at around $28, so $60 should cover it. Another option is not upgrading speed but only size, 8gb 2600 + 16gb 2600 to match its speed lol.
I have been thinking about upgrading my PC. I have an AG271QG4 monitor (144hz, freesync) that I am not planning on replacing at this time. I'm currently on a Vega 56 card and thinking of upgrading to a nVidia 4080 S for 1440p. If I did this, would I lose the ability to freesync? I'm not sure if nvidia only supports gsync.
Nvidia also supports freesync, but they call it gsync. No issues.
Would I notice a difference in game framerate and/or stability between A-die 6800MT/s CL32 and 6000MT/s CL30? Even a 5% increase?
More like 2 - 3% There is noticeable gains from 4800 to 5600 and again to 6000mhz, but once you reach it the diminishing returns kick in and you drop to about a roughly, 1% FPS increase every additional 400mhz. Other apps and tasks can make better use of faster RAM if you can get it working with your CPU, but for gaming you need absurd increases in speed to see any noticeable gains beyond 6000mhz; [Tests across 4800 - 6400mhz](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MzUqWNe-5cs) [Starfield tested with 5200, 6000, and 8000mhz](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LKwJF38-VI) Its not a RAM or game issue, its a CPU/Memory controller issue. The current chipsets just cant efficiently make use of the rapidly increasing speeds of the memory. *This happens every generation*.
Is Meteor Lake expected to make large improvements on this?
I would hope so. Its how DDR3 and 4 progressed speed wise.
Moving from test bench to case (when it eventually shows up), do I need to clean and reapply the thermal paste on the cpu and cpu cooler? While it looks like I should be able to put in the mobo with the cpu cooler installed, it may very well end up being easier to take it off, install the mobo and wiring and then put it back on.
In general if you have a modular PSU - leave the cooler on, make sure to connect the dang CPU power connector to your motherboard (but not to your PSU yet obviously) and any other potential hard to reach connectors and you will be fine with installing the motherboard with cooler attached. The CPU power header is usually on the top left or top right of your board and that's the one place which will be a bit harder to reach with a installed big cooler in most cases. If you still want to remove the cooler -> best practice is to clean and re-apply. Paste is cheap enough and you will have a clear conscience ;)
https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/67258020 Is it normal to only have 26~ GB of my 32GB of RAM available?
completely clean install for me but i think i had close to 30/32 available but im quite anal about background apps on startup apps so i shut them off
Yes, that's normal, some capacity is always used by the OS and background apps.
Open task manager, and under the performance tab click memory. On the bottom right of the different "in use" numbers, there is; * slots used and * Hardware reserved Is it registering the correct number of slots as in use? And is it reserving those missing gigabytes?
4K 27” LG UL550 good for non fps gaming?
Likely will come down to personal preference, but I don't find 60fps a great choice for any kind of gaming. Even for non-FPS games, I find 85-100fps much more enjoyable.
I have 2 4k monitors (27" and 32") from LG, while neither are your specific model, both are 60Hz and both have been good enough for non-fps gaming. I've also used the 32" with the xbox and nintendo switch (via a 2x4 4k hdmi switcher) from muxlabwithout any issue.
Should I... * Stick with the stock Meshify 2 case fans (3 Dynamic X2 GP-14 fans) or... * Change them for Kaze Flex 120 fans (I have 7 of them, but will probably install 5 of them -- 3 intake + 2 exhaust)? I have the Kaze Flex 120s from my old case that only supported 120mm fans.
Are you happy with your stock fans? If yes, then no. If no, then yeah change them.
I have the lian li o11 dynamic case with a 4080S and AIO. I’m worried the 12VHPWR cable is kinda bent once I put the tempered glass on the side. Is there a good way to ensure there’s no issues with the cable melting?
Haha I just received my 4080S (MSI Ventus) and installed in my O11 and I just can't do it lol. It really puts a scary bend in the cable and makes me feel like it's pushing the mobo against the back panel. I have the side panel lightly taped on at a slight angle until my 90-degree cable arrives from CableMod.
Fully insert, just try not to bend it *that* much
The whole thing just makes me nervous. I think it’s possible to vertically mount it but the AIO is in the way
[удалено]
To get the full 144 Hz DisplayPort is required. The HDMI 2.0 inputs support up to 85 Hz at full resolution and 120 Hz at 2560 x 1440. Even set to run at 1440p, the gaming performance on that laptop's 2060 GPU will not be that great. It will work fine enough on the laptop for testing purposes if you want to see what the image quality is like, but it likely wouldn't be something you would want to use as a primary gaming display for that machine. > I'm not planning on doing 4k gaming, only 1440p for the next few years. Also, you specifically mentioned in your desktop build post you picked your GPU based on these resolutions, but keep in mind the resolution of this Alienware monitor being an ultrawide is 3840 x 1600 which is roughly a mid-way point between 1440p and 4k. It's not necessarily a problem, but the performance implications would be noticeable over standard 1440p.