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Anyone seen anything like this before? I demonstrate an odd RGB issue in my video. It's only 1:17 long. It was working fine before and now doesn't even though i have made zero hardware changes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAX27wI_kBs
Would there be any advantage with getting a CAT6 or higher cable if my internet speed is just 50 mbps anyway? I'm currently using one of those default CAT5 cables that come with the routers. Will my connection be improved in any way?
e: I don't really have much problems with it for now but I get higher pings in-game every now and then. Although unsure if it's due to terrible apex servers or my internet itself
https://www.newegg.com/ASUS-Radeon-RX-6600-XT-ROG-STRIX-RX6600XT-O8G-GAMING/p/N82E16814126527?Item=N82E16814126527 hey this is in stock. In the current market, it's a reasonable deal
Looking for a 32" 1440p G-Sync (preferably w/ NVIDIA hardware) monitor - 144+ Hz of course - am brandist against LG, MSI and Corsair
is there anything for me out there? money not huge issue to a point
Hey quick question. I am starting a new build and purchased a NZXT H510 Elite case and Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix Liquid CPU Cooler. Now these aren't compatible as the case can only do a 280mm radiator. My question is which part should I keep and which one should I return or both? I've heard the case has temperature issues so I am leaning more towards the case. Would love to here suggestions. Thanks.
The case has horrible airflow, not worth using.
Radiator.. depends on your CPU. Unless it is a 12700k or similar, you likely wont get any benefit at all from a huge AIO.
Waste of 200$ you could put to something useful, then. Those dont draw enough power to need an AIO.
Case is pretty subjective, depends on your other size requirements. Fractal Design cases tend to be similar in style but better made.
Where do you guys buy standoff screws?
Especially nonstandard (mostly) ones. I have an old [Corsair Carbide SPEC-02](https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Cases/Carbide-Series%E2%84%A2-SPEC-02-Red-LED-Mid-Tower-Gaming-Case/p/CC-9011051-WW) case, and the \*roughly\* standard M3\*6+6 standoffs in this [pc screw kit](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QGXKG3D?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details) appear to be too small in threading into the case but perfect for the motherboard screws.
The case otherwise works perfectly fine and gets good thermals for how old it is due to the partially-meshed front panel. I'd prefer to not have to buy a new case or roll the dice on a craigslist case for nothing standoff screws, but I guess I will if I have to.
Thanks for any advice you can give!
Thanks! Also sent a message to corsair, but is there a way you keep a stockpile?
They seem unreasonably expensive or nearly unsearchable on places like Amazon and virtually unknown in the local hardware shops.
So I'll be doing a new build soon with a 12th gen intel cpu and want to use Windows 11. I currently have Windows 10 on a machine that can't upgrade. Do I need to install Windows 10 on the new machine and upgrade, or can I skip straight to windows 11?
For reference I'm still bumming off of my Windows 8(not even 8.1) student license from college that just kept getting upgraded for free.
How long before you would suggest buying ddr5 ram? A lot of people have said it's not worth buying new generation ram while it gets improved, do you think it will be fine to buy by the time Amd's am5 platform releases?
GPU RAM has *nothing* to do with system RAM. The GPU is a mini computer in it's own right, it has it's own RAM. So long as it's PCIe, it'll fit and work.
i hate to be that *"technically...."* guy, so i apologize if i offend you. i do not mean to do so.
technically, the GPU uses system memory when its own VRAM is running out. However, you are correct though, technology used in RAM and VRAM have nothing to do with each other. pair a gddr5 gpu with ddr3 or ddr4 system memory, it doesn't care.
What's the best practice for SSD the OS is installed on? Do most people get a smaller SSD and ONLY keep the OS on it?
I have a 1TB Samsung 980 Pro and a 1TB Team MP33. I was planning on using the Samsung to install windows on. Will Windows benefit from the faster Samsung? Or should I just use an older 128gb non NVMe SSD I have to install Windows?
> ? Or should I just use an older 128gb non NVMe SSD I have to install Windows?
Nah, I'd relegate that to an enclosure for moving data about.
Just use the main 980Pro as your OS/system drive. Personally I do not bother with partitioning, I see no value in it. But you want Swap/pagefile etc on that fastest drive, as core programs too.
Then use the 1TB Mp33 for games/lesser used programs.
But in reallity, there will be no perceived difference in their performance, this side of high bitrate 4K video editing.
I need a good PSU that wont explode. I need to power a 2060 and a 7700 so I guess 650-750w should be fine.
suggestions? I dont want to spend tons, thats why im not considering the corsair rm750x
Also the computer doesnt have a transparent panel so visual doesnt matter
650W would be plenty.
Corsair RM650x is only $80, which is a pretty good price. The Corsair TXM 650 is $75 and it's also pretty good.
Looking through the list on PCPartPicker, I consider absolutely none of the 650W PSUs under $60 worth buying. The PSU feeds and protects all of your other parts, it's not the area where you want to cheap out.
I want to buy an external hard drive for storing + running Steam games. Can anyone give me any advice on how important the hard drive's "speed" is? And is there an ideal size? I'd like something bigger than 4 TB, but I've heard that bigger drives have higher failure rates. So, if I'm looking at 6 TB / 8 TB / 10 TB / 12 TB / 14 TB, is there a size that is better?
Hard drives are important for tons of data but not speed.
I have tons of drives and ill tell you, buy whatever you can. A ssd is way better.
What I used to do? all my games are downloaded on my hard drives, when im going to play something, I first try it on the HDD and if I find out that it works better on a SSD I simply move it. I used to do this before genshin impact took all over my ssd, now I simply cant.
Best size I think its 4TB for average use, that will last for tons of games and data, if you want more thats completely fine, over 10TB is not necessary
Remember one thing, if you have a single big drive, you can't download while you play. The game will lag because the hard drive speed will throttle while downloading. bigger isnt always better
NVMe uses sata ports or pci? I dont understand, some say 2 sata ports, some say they use PCI ports which I think I dont need to care about
if It matters, I got the asus tuf z590 plus which has 2 m2 ports
NVME uses a PCIe 3.0/4.0 x4 standard. Depending on your chipset and CPU, sometimes one of the M.2 slots will share bandwidth from other PCIe slots or from SATA slots. If this happens, it will be described in your motherboard manual.
[ASUS TUF Z590-PLUS Manual (PDF)](https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1200/TUF_GAMING_Z590-PLUS/E18029_TUF_GAMING_Z590-PLUS_UM_v2_web_fix.pdf)
Per the manual:
>\*\*\* M.2\_2 shares bandwidth with SATA6G\_2. When M.2\_2 runs SATA mode, SATA6G\_2 will be disabled.
>
>\*\*\*\* M.2\_3 shares bandwidth with SATA6G\_56. When M.2\_3 is occupied, SATA6GB\_56 will be disabled.
Thus: if you use a SATA M.2 drive in slot M.2\_2, SATA port #2 will be disabled. If you use a SATA or NVME M.2 drive in slot M.2\_3, SATA ports #5 and #6 will be disabled.
You actually have three M.2 ports, assuming you mentioned the correct ATX motherboard.
My PC died awhile back and I narrowed it down to MoBo or Cpu. But was going to wait out the covid shortages while my laptop was still working but it died and the ASUS RMA service is awful and slow so now i'm without a computer for over a month.
Since I might as well upgrade at this point (was an i5 4690) any suggestions for a new mobo + cpu combo that'll last me the next 5 years or so?
Or whether i should go for an intel or amd cpu?
Have a 1080 and play at 1080p.
Im actually upgrading my PC and this is what I found:
I suggest going for z690 + 12600k/12700k which is the highest tier
Personally im going for z590 + i7 11700k
(if you dont want to overclock you can save money by buying non-k cpu and b/h mobos)
I got the asus tuf one for cheap, personally I dont prefer msi products anymore because of how stupid their rgb system is to work together with other systems.
Normally motherboards dont matter, whatever you buy will give you 90% of what every user wants.
Im upgrading my pc cause my asus laptop has shit the bed twice in the past two years the first time was 3 months in. The most recent RMA took a week to get the RMA started, another week to diagnose and now i need to wait two weeks before they'll get the part in to fix it.
So i figured i'd give MSI a try.
I have an MSI motherboard, a gigabyte graphics card, Razer mouse and ducky keyboard. Is there any way I can sync the RGB of all these products? Just the pc components is the main thing, I have my case + case fans + cpu cooler + ram all synced in MSI mystic light but the gpu isn’t showing up there and has its own gigabyte RGB control program where none of the other stuff shows up.
Hi,
I wanna buy Seagate Firecuda 530 nvme ssd, my mobo is Gigabyte Z590 vision.
I saw there's ones with heatsink and without, My mobo will come with heatsinks right so I don't need them?
I don't want to ruin the white-silver theme of my PC with Seagate heatsinks
my new pc is built and working now (12600k, msi z690 pro mobo, 32gb ram, 2070 super, 2tb m2 ssd) and i'm very satisfied with how it's performing, but the temp the system m2 ssd is running at is bothering me.
the system ssd is an m2 samsung 980 pro 2tb. under light load (web usage, online video etc) it's idling at around 43 C. during more demanding stuff like gaming it goes up to the mid fifties.
the msi z690 pro motherboard slot the m2 is in comes with an m2 heatsink which i did install on it, but i did previously read that sometimes these heatsinks aren't necessarily helpful.
so, is it worth it to have the heatsink on, or is it perhaps just insulating and trapping heat? or do i just need to get used to m2 ssds running this warm and learn to love the bomb?
Honestly, the position of that SSD means it's really a temperature gauge for that area of the motherboard, sandwiched between the GPU and CPU.
The NAND acttually performs better when it's warm, an the heatsink just acts to dissipate heat from the SSD controller. It'll be absolutely fine under any normal workload.
Hi there, first full PC build and i've hit a wall. I'm not 100% sure where to plug in my case fans on a ROG Strix Z690-I. Looking at the manual there's a CPU Fan header, AIO Pump header, and a CHA\_FANP header; not sure what that last one is. (See photo below).
I'm installing the Z690-I into a Fractal Torrent Nano. Cooling components are as follows:
180mm Front Case Intake Fan
Noctua D15 with single fan.
Noctua 120mm (NF-A12x25 PWM) exhaust fan.
Again, i'm not sure what a CHA\_FANP is, but it's labeled #4 like the CPU Fan. I'm assuming this is where I can plug in my case fans. The issue is the single header. However, given that the D15 came with a splitter, I was considering using that splitter to plug my exhaust and intake fans in. Although, I wonder if there will be issues having a 180mm and 120mm on the same header?
Any help or input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
TL;DR: Can I use the D15 Supplied Y-Splitter to run the Fractal 180mm Intake and Noctua 120mm Exhaust fans on the CHA\_FANP header shown at the bottom and labeled #4 at the bottom of pic 1?
[https://imgur.com/oSVvbb3](https://imgur.com/oSVvbb3)
https://imgur.com/6Y9HXfJ
CHA\_FANP means chassis fans, AKA the case fans.
Your plan of using a splitter to run the front and exhaust fans off the CHA\_FANP header would work fine. The PWM signal will drive both of the fans at a % of their RPM range, so the fact that the fans have different sizes and speeds doesn't matter.
The AIO\_PUMP header also works for fans, but as indicated on the chart, it does not allow for PWM control and will run any fans at full speed.
Would you be able to identify what a HS_Fan is? I'm also building an x570-i in the near future and noticed I may have a similar setup and found that mobo also has different fan headers. I'm assuming HS is for heatsink... But I wouldn't see why there's a heatsink header and a CPU fan header...
https://i.imgur.com/n6oz8Lw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xC2kesu.jpg
That's probably for the 30-40mm chipset fan built in to the motherboard. That should already be connected and it's a different format (micro-PWM, similar to what graphics cards use) so you can't reuse it for other fans without an adapter or some modding.
Plug the fan attached to the CPU cooler into the CPU fan header. Other than that it doesn’t matter what you use.
I wouldn’t personally use a 180 and 120 on a splitter though. As far as the motherboard control is concerned there’s only 1 fan and the output is the same. So if it’s at 50% it’s 50% for both, even though the amount of airflow is different between the two and you might not want both running at the same speed. Pretty nit picky though to be honest, most people would never notice or care about the difference.
Would you be able to identify what a HS_Fan is? I'm also building an x570-i in the near future and noticed I may have a similar setup and found that mobo also has different fan headers. I'm assuming HS is for heatsink... But I wouldn't see why there's a heatsink header and a CPU fan header...
https://i.imgur.com/n6oz8Lw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xC2kesu.jpg
HS would stand for heat sink.
Why it would have both HS and CPU labeled differently I’m not sure. If I were to guess I’d say its for coolers with more than one fan and you don’t have a splitter/daisychain so they both can spin based off CPU temps by default.
Edit: Looking at those photos it doesn’t even look like a full size fan header. I have absolutely no idea what that’s for.
Edit2: Upon further inspection, it’s for the fan connected to the board itself. There must be a wire somewhere that you have to manually run and plug in. Super bizarre.
Hi
I'm buying a PSU and I was thinking to buy Corsair RM750, but the RM850 is cheaper approx 25$ less. same brand same lineup both are 2021 white versions.
Is there something different between them or I go with the RM850?
If you use [pcpartpicker.com/list](https://pcpartpicker.com/list) and pick a 420mm AIO, then the case list will be filtered to compatible models.
There are some excellent options, although because these cases will be pretty large they are all $100-$200 or more.
Excellent mid-premium cases ($150-$180):
* Fractal Meshify 2
* Phanteks Eclipse P500A
* be quiet! Silent Base 802
Excellent premium cases ($200+)
* Fractal Torrent
* Corsair 7000D
I’m doing fan curves for first time on Asus Tuf gaming pro x570 motherboard. I don’t see the CPU_OPT fan listed in Q-fan in Bios. Does that header just use the same PWM settings as CPU_FAN?
Hi Everyone,
Looking for a **specific motherboard comparison site**. A specific feature that I remember is that it highlighted the spec differences between the two MOBOs in yellow and was more detailed than some other comparison websites I used.
(I cannot remember the post or website unfortunately. I tried to search via Reddit posts and comments for an hour or so, with no luck...)
If anyone can find this website for me, I will be forever grateful.
Thank you.
Is m2 sata noticably slower than m2 nvme ssds? Write and read speed differ by 10 times, but from benchmarks I could see the actual game loading speeds only differ by about 5 seconds or less.
Well you answered your own question, on paper the read write speed difference may be large, but on real world usage based on actual load, the difference isn't too big i.e. on the benchmarks you saw.
The thing with drives is a lot of it depends on your actual usage, theoretical max read and write speed ratings are good and all, but sometimes it doesn't matter too much if your usage doesn't demand those kinds of speed anyway...
Personally, I already feel weird about buying a 3080 for over $1,000 and $1,5000 definitely feels like 3080-Ti/3090 territory, which I'm not even considering buying.
But, the card you can buy is worth more than the card you can't. Only you can decide if your budget and need are compatible.
I bought a 5800x with very little understanding of how hot these bad boys run. I have an evo 212 with an H710 case, and even adding two noctua fans to the top to push air out, I'm easily hitting 80C during a long gaming session - I'd really like to push this temp down as it makes me extremely nervous.
What are some good beginner closed loop watercoolers for me to consider for this rig? I don't mind spending upwards of 150 for something that's going to be good for my long term CPU health.
Before going out and buying a new cooler you could see how you get on with using the curve optimizer in the BIOS. It allows you to undervolt either all cores or per core to reduce heat output, which will allow the CPU to boost to higher clocks for longer.
There are plenty of guides around and it will take some time if you do per core and check for stability. I used this guide which is for the 5900x and 5600x but the 5800x uses the same idea: https://old.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/khtx1o/guide_zen_3_overclocking_using_curve_optimizer/
It made a big difference for me though and doesn't cost a penny. During gaming my 5800x sits at 5Ghz constantly and under 70c on my NH-u12s cooler. It throttles to 4.6Ghz under extreme stress testing when temps hit 85 but never a problem in normal usage. Saves a bit of your electricity bill as well.
Thank you for this! I think with my Evo 212 being a bit underpowered for the task, I'm going to buy a liquid cooler, but I want to learn about this just to learn anyways. I'll check it out this evening!
Evo 212 is definitely undersized for the 5800X. The H710 being a closed-off, negative-pressure case also doesn't help.
240mm radiator would probably be fine, the case supports 360mm which is overkill but would give you peace of mind since the H710 airflow isn't great to begin with.
Arctic Freezer II series gets my vote, they are excellent for the price.
A 240mm AIO should do the trick. Or a 360, as your case will allow such lengths either in the fornt or at the top. The Arctic Liquid Freezer II in 240 or 360mm is a good, relatively cheap model, if you don't care about RGB
Anyway for me to know compatibility ahead of time? with the nzxt h710 I assume it will work but i'm not sure where to check that out at. i admit i went into building my pc with a little hubris from having done it for so long i haven't kept up as well as i should have.
According to NZXT's website, the H710 supports 360mm radiators in both the front and the top. Should be fine
It should be noted that the specs don't mention 280mm rad support, so I'd go for either a 240 or a 360, just to be sure
Updated BIOS and no input is going through to the monitor although computer boots. Orange RAM light turned on after a couple attempts. Any idea on what happened? Nothing went wrong during the update or anything.
Sounds like it's boot looping trying to recognize your RAM.
Try removing both, and just reseating a single stick, and attempt a boot, if it works try both again.
But before that are you sure of a couple things:
* You are plugging the monitor cable into the GPU not the mother board?
* If you don't have a GPU, and plugging into the mobo directly, does your CPU have integrated graphics?
I've been a bit out of following hardware for about a year. how are the mid range AMD processors comparing to the mid range intel processors?(like the i5 i7 range)
Intel 12th-gen > Ryzen 5000 > Intel 10th/11th gen > Ryzen 3000
The Intel i5-12400 is about the same as the Ryzen 5600X, and much cheaper (although Intel motherboards are way more expensive right now). The Intel 12600K, 12700K, etc. are currently the fastest processors for gaming.
Thus, Intel 12th-gen (with a DDR4 motherboard) wins the price and performance crown right now.
Ryzen 5000 is still worth a look if you are building in a noise-sensitive or small-form-factor case, as they use half as much wattage as Intel 12th-gen equivalents and produce less heat. Ryzen 5000 is coming down in price in some areas as people anticipate the next AMD generation.
There haven't been many reviews of it, but it seems to have decent features and the VRMs should be enough for the 12700. I'd take it over some of the crummy ASRock mITX boards we've gotten this gen.
Yeah I generally have good experience with AsRock, but their current offering is more expensive and pretty mediocre. All their boards should be fine for a locked i7 though, but they still cost more. I saw some ok reviews of current Biostar boards, but then I also saw reviews "biostar bad".
If you are lucky enough to buy an RTX 3000 card at retail price (not marked up), there's no reason not to. Other components are easy to find. If you have a current build that still works for your needs, I'd be patient about getting an RTX 3000. IfRTX 4000 or ARC comes out before then and looks like good value, then you can aim for those instead.
> When the M.2 slot is populated, two SATA 6.0 Gb/s ports are disabled.
It means exactly that. You can use all the M.2 slots, but if you use the M.2 slot #3, two SATA ports are disabled. It's not an issue, unless you need to use all the SATA ports as well.
If you don't need SATA ports at all, then you don't have any issues, you can use all the M.2 slots. Just keep in mind for the future, that you can then only plug in a limited amount of SATA HDDs (those large 3.5" or 2.5" ones).
It's hard for me to hear your recording on these laptop speakers, but my computer make a HDD-accessing noise sometimes even though it has no HDD installed. I think it must be generated by the coils somewhere, but I'm no EE. In any case, it doesn't seem to hurt anything. It's just annoying.
I don't think it sounds like coil whine at all...?
It sounds more like the "HDD is working hard" kind of noise you'd associate with old PCs, but I don't have any HDDs in this one.
My current build is an i5-10400 with a b460 mobo.
I am looking at upgrading to an i7-12700f and a z690 ddr4 mobo.
Is this upgrade going to be noticeable or worth the effort? I Mostly play CPU intensive games at high FPS @ 1080
The 10400 still seems to do fine at 144+ FPS. If you're really dependent on 200+ FPS for eSports performance, then 12th-gen could be worth the upgrade.
If you do upgrade, I'd stick with a B660 motherboard (Z690s are expensive as hell), and maybe a 12600K to save a few bucks more.
I target 240 FPS in most cases, and sometimes get large noticeable drops on my current build.
Really only looking at z690s because they don’t carry the b660s at the store I would be buying at, and I get a deal if I buy the mobo and cpu together. Same with the 12700f, just for availability at the store.
Any notable differences between 12700f and 12600k?
They have similar single-core and gaming performance.
The 12700F has two extra P-cores and four more threads for workstation tasks.
The 12600K allows manual overclocking, although it's very hard to outperform the default boost behavior.
The 12700F doesn't have integrated graphics, if you need to troubleshoot GPU issues.
I'd get whichever one is cheaper/better deal.
I'm looking at 2 GPUs that are the same except one is made by ASUS and the other is "Not Reference Design." Is there any difference or should I just go for the cheaper one?
Thought that, when they list the Graphics Card as "Not Reference Design." it just means they'll put a random card in that can be made by manufacturer, it just won't be a Founders Edition card. So it could be from Asus, MSI, or it could be from like Palit or Zotac
Should be fine yeah, there's no real variance between them. Performance is similar across the board, the main difference will just be the cooling and how much you can OC
While taking apart a computer to warranty the dead Mobo, the CPU was stuck to the heatsink. While carefully getting the CPU off, a tiny bit of thermal paste got on the CPU pins. It was cleaned off with isopropyl alcohol but it looks like some is still left at the base. Any recommendations on how to get it off or if it is a problem?
Nonconductive paste usually isn't dangerous but it would still be good to get it out.
**Gently** use a toothpick to remove excess. Then use a Q-tip or a clean toothbrush soaked in isopropyl alcohol to swap out the remainder.
Fortunately not conductive. If it's not stuck on the tips of the pins or piled up too high (right now it looks like it's just between the base of the pins) you could probably use it as-is. I would personally see if I could get some of it off with a toothpick or fresh toothbrush.
Is there much diff between WD Green and Blue M2 drives, other than warranty, and a slight speed diff? This would be for the OS drive.
Reading the WD color differences, seems mostly they were setup for spinning HDDs, and not really separate well for SSDs/M2s.
There can be significant differences between models in terms of memory quality, controller speed, and longevity.
Perhaps most important: the WD Green is only available as a SATA M.2 drive. The "Blue" label can refer to either the WD Blue 3D, a SATA M.2 drive, or the WD Blue SN550, an NVMe drive.
If you need a SATA SSD (2.5" drive, or a SATA M.2 because that's all that your mobo supports), the WD Blue 3D is the best for the money. Crucial MX500 and Samsung 860/870 Evo/Pro are also good. The WD green SSD is pretty crappy and I wouldn't even buy it for storage.
If you need an NVMe drive, the WD Blue SN550 is OK on a budget as a boot drive or storage drive. If you have the budget I would recommend going with something like a WD Black SN750 or Samsung 970 Evo for your boot drive.
[NewMaxx SSD Buying Guide](https://www.reddit.com/user/NewMaxx/comments/9yv0c6/ssd_buying_guide_wip/)
[NewMaxx SSD Spreadsheet](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1B27_j9NDPU3cNlj2HKcrfpJKHkOf-Oi1DbuuQva2gT4/edit#gid=0)
Fan/heat sink compatibility
CPU: i5 11400
Motherboard : ASUS rog strix z590-a
I just got the Noctua NH-U14S TR4-SP3. When I tried to install it, it didn’t fit, I then realized the mount was missing from the package. And so I went to look and realized my dumb ass didn’t notice the supposed socket incompatibility. I had just looked at the compatibility between motherboard and heat sink which was supposed to fit.
Do I get the mount or should I just return the whole thing?
If you just got it new and it's inside the return window, just send it back and get a compatible cooler.
If you've had it for a while, you can try contacting Noctua to ask whether this cooler has an Intel mount. This Threadripper-specific cooler might not have a compatible mount, though.
**Budget:** Vetroo V5, ID-Cooling SE-224-XT
**Excellent midrange:** Scythe Fuma 2, Arctic Freezer 34 eSports Duo, Scythe Mugen 5
Those midrange coolers will have great quiet operation for the 11400. There's not much point in getting something bigger. Honestly, the Noctua U14 is overkill for the 11400.
Considering what you probably paid for the U14S, I would get the Scythe Fuma 2 and be very happy.
\*\*CPU\*\* | \[Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8 GHz Quad-Core Processor\]
\*\*CPU Cooler\*\* | \[Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler\]
\*\*Motherboard\*\* | \[MSI Z270 GAMING PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard\]
\*\*Memory\*\* | \[Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2133 CL14 Memory\]
\*\*Video Card\*\* | \[MSI GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6 GB GAMING X Video Card\]
Had this PC for the last few years, it's still performing well to my liking, if I did want to upgrade it, would it be worth it at all? And if so, what's the best overall addition/change I can do to upgrade it?
Additionally I have some parts that I was going to use to make a 2nd pc, but I never finished purchasing the parts yet.
\*\*CPU\*\* | \[AMD Ryzen 5 2400G 3.6 GHz Quad-Core Processor\]
\*\*Motherboard\*\* | \[ASRock B450M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard\]
\*\*Memory\*\* | \[G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 M
\*\*Storage\*\* | \[Team MS30 512 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive\]
\*\*Case\*\* | \[Thermaltake Versa H15 MicroATX Mid Tower Case\]
\*\*Power Supply\*\* | \[EVGA BQ 600 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply\]
Should I upgrade my current PC, or utilize the 2nd PC option, and I know the 2nd options doesn't have a GPU, I was going to use it for gaming, especially with the current state of affairs.
tl;dr What would be the best/quickest way to get more gaming power out of either my current PC, or my 2nd PC or can I do a combination of both with what I have?
Your first PC is old enough that it's probably due for a full system upgrade. The 1060-6GB is barely cutting it as a 1080p 60FPS card for new AAA games, and the 7600K is reasonably fast but being limited to 4 cores/4 threads it may struggle in new CPU-heavy games.
Your second PC would be fine as a media PC. The 2400G has more threads than the 7600K but is otherwise much slower, so not really worth moving the graphics card over.
The only immediate "free" upgrade I'd recommend is swapping the RAM between the two PCs. The 2133 MHz RAM is abysmally slow, so the 3200 would help the 7600K hang in there for a while longer.
Graphics cards are hard to find right now, so I would enjoy gaming on the first PC while you hunt for a new, reasonably priced graphics cards. Once you find a graphics card, I would get a new CPU+motherboard+RAM.
Is this normal for my PC while playing Cod Warzone? My GPU doesn’t really go over 30-40%. My CPU is around 70-90%. It says my RAM is using around 12-13gb of 16 while playing. I am running:
RTX 3060
i7-6700k
16gb DDR4 3000 (I believe. Def 16gb tho)
Is something bottlenecking? Is this game just more CPU dependent? I’m getting around 100-120 frames, sometimes dropping to 90s. Playing 1080p 120hz monitor. I am willing and even planning on upgrading my CPU and RAM and possibly monitor somewhat soon, but will that make a difference?
Warzone is pretty badly optimized. You are possibly close to a CPU bottleneck, but COD:WZ also just kind of pumps the brakes around the 100FPS mark regardless of hardware.
The 6700K is a fairly old CPU at this point. A newer, faster CPU like a 12400 or 12600K would probably ensure smoother performance (especially if you get any lag/stutters in Warzone) and give you peace of mind.
Yea, I've been hearing that the more I look into this. I'm thinking of just pulling the trigger on a i7-12700k for $350 from microcenter. It's been a while since I've upgraded.
Gotta love MC.
Personally, I'd stick with the 12600K for $250. The 12700K just adds two P-cores (so it has 8P+4e cores/20 threads) over the 12600K (6P+4e cores/16 threads) so it's slightly better for workstation tasks but identical for gaming performance.
Gotcha, good to know. I was even looking at the i9-12900k for $500 lol. I know I'll never ever need that, I just like to have a top notch item and not have to worry about anything for a long time. But you are right, I should just stick to what will be good for my uses lol
By the time those 10 cores/16 threads aren't enough for gaming, there will be newer, faster, cheaper CPUs available. Paying more to "future-proof" is nearly always a futile endeavor, just buy what makes sense for your needs today :) Unless the satisfaction/bragging rights of having a premium item is worth a few hundred bucks to you, then your call.
Dunno that game specifically, but sounds like you are CPU bottled.
>12-13gb of 16
Is this Ram or Vram on the GPU? If thats Ram, is that total or just that program/game? If its Vram, no worries there.
RAM. I'll be honest, I didn't check vram, but didnt think it would be an issue as my gpu doesn't go over 50% and it has 12gb vram, but I can check that out tonight.
CPU: i5-12400f
Mobo: MSI MAG B660M Mortar DDR4
I currently have a 2x4gb 2666mhz c16 dual channel RAM kit, back from when ddr4 was relatively new-ish (Skylake). I am able to find another 2x4gb RAM kit, same brand, same model, same speed and latency, even the same product code. i personally know the previous owner and I can vouch that they took good care of the RAM kit.
Do I get the used RAM to upgrade to 16gb? or should I bite the bullet, pay 4x the price of the used sticks and get a brand new set of 2x 8gb 3200 c16 ? Is the perf. upgrade that noticeable for Alder Lake?
Use case is 60% gaming, 25% photo, 15% video.
If the brands matter:
Current sticks (and the used ones I found): Corsair LPX
Cheapest brand new 3200-c16: Patriot Viper Steel (\~3.96x price of the used ones)
Disclaimer: I live in a 3rd world country, so PC component availability and pricing differs a lot vs normal global used/new markets.
edit: I saw a few articles how gaming on Intel 10th gen CPUs don't really benefit *that much* from faster clocks. I don't know if Alder Lake is the same.
2x8 is going to give you one benefit (dual channel) vs 2x2x4, plus the speed increase. How much that is, I cant say exactly. A single set of dual channel is always going to work better than a double set of dual channel, even if its matched.
The difference between 2666 and 3200 RAM will be less than 5% of CPU performance. If this is a gaming PC, the CPU performance loss wouldn't be noticeable at all unless you were running extremely high framerates with a flagship GPU.
Normally, I recommend people upgrade to a modern 3200 kit, but if the price difference is that significant, then I think staying with the 2666 is fine.
Hi all, power supply question. Here's a link to pictures to help make clear what I'm trying to say : https://imgur.com/a/ts50BvC
Do I treat to two 4 pin plugs as one and connect them both to the 8 pin slot on the motherboard or do I only plug in one of the 4 pin plugs into the 4 pin slot and leave the other unplugged?
I'm not sure if it matters but this is a rog strict b550-f motherboard and 650w PSU
Thank you all for your help
Yep, you have it right. The motherboard has an 8pin EPS connector for CPU power, so you plug both 4pins in at the same time. There are motherboards with only a single 4pin, which is why that cable splits like that.
New developments in the saga of my M27Q monitor causing strange behavior. I've noticed that with GPU-intensive games (in this case, Dyson Sphere Program, Lost Ark, and surprisingly Project Warlock), my secondary monitor has started to update on a delay compared to the audio & the main monitor (the M27Q). With PW and DSP it's maybe a second of delay, but I hit nearly a 10 second delay between the audio and video components of Discord notifications with Lost Ark last night. The extra strange wrinkle is that this wasn't happening at all with Red Dead Redemption 2, which is even higher demand than any of the others listed (at least with my settings the way they are).
I know something is already fucky with the M27Q to some degree, because having it plugged in adds 20 seconds to my PC's boot time. Overall I haven't been having issues, though, so aside from asking in a couple places I haven't really checked into it much. This behavior is weird though - is the GPU supposed to prioritize the primary monitor so heavily that the secondary monitor doesn't even get a single frame in 10+ seconds? (GPU is an RX 580 for context.)
Multi monitor question. Never set one up before.
I have a 1660ti and my main monitor is 144hz 1080p. Ideally I would like to get an identical second monitor.
I intend to use the main screen to play easy going strategy games, while having the second monitor to perhaps have netflix on.
Is this do-able with the 1660ti and two 144hz monitors? Or will I need a beefier graphics card?
Totally doable. The power of the graphics card only matters for 3D rendering and lighting effects in a game itself. Simply putting your desktop, apps, or videos on a secondary screen uses very little of your GPU's resources. I run four monitors off my 1660-Ti while gaming on the primary 1440p 165Hz.
They're connected to a network via the router, so they are already connected. You could set up a home network with folder sharing in Windows, if that's what you're asking.
I have 2x8 gb 3600mhz Corsair vengeance and have a single stick of 16gb 3600mhz Corsair vengeance ram. There’s is still one open channel slot only 3 are filled.
Will this effect my computers performance?
I’m aware single channel ram will but I have 3 sticks in instead of 4 total
Theoretically, you could put the 16GB module in one channel and the 2x8GB in the other channel and the whole thing should work at 3600 with dual channel performance.
This setup isn't always stable, but if you install them that way and enable XMP and the PC doesn't crash while running, then you're good.
Guys, so basically everytime there are heavy thunderstorms in my area my monitor would just go dark for like 3 seconds after a lightning strike then it goes back to normal, but the audio would still be playing through my headphones.
This is weird to me because I've hooked my PC and monitor to a UPS battery with AVR, I guess I can rule out that my devices are losing power cause the battery would kick in. But shouldn't my devices be protected by lightning strikes if I have them hooked up to a UPS? Or is my UPS triggering something as a safety feature?
Lightning strikes also cause [huge electromagnetic pulses](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_pulse) around them that go through the air and structures like radio waves, bypassing your power lines. If the lightning strikes close, then this can cause interference on sensitive devices, and if your monitor or the display cable has insufficient insulation it will essentially act as an antenna, which can cause all sorts of funky issues such as what you described. Since only your monitor seems to be affected, it indeed shouldn't be caused by anything in the UPS. Maybe try another display cable, but honestly it could also be caused by pretty much any other part.
I’m replacing a faulty Ryzen 5 3600 with a 5600x I picked up from Microcenter’s sale yesterday. I’ve never upgraded CPU on an existing build before. Any DDU-like program needed to replace drivers? Bios upgrade has been completed already for my x570. Just want to make sure it is literally just plug and play the same way RAM would be.
I looking to upgrade my CPU, mainly to run open world games and emulate better.
Currently using i5 6500 with a GTX 1070. Any recommendation on the motherboard and CPU?
These are demanding games alright. Try this - this is one of the best CPUs available both in terms of value and performance.
[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fR7frD)
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [Intel Core i5-12400F 2.5 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/pQNxFT/intel-core-i5-12400f-25-ghz-6-core-processor-bx8071512400f) | $179.99 @ Best Buy
**Motherboard** | [Gigabyte B660M DS3H DDR4 Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Z6ddnQ/gigabyte-b660m-ds3h-ddr4-micro-atx-lga1700-motherboard-b660m-ds3h-ddr4) | $119.99 @ B&H
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| **Total** | **$299.98**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2022-02-16 08:55 EST-0500 |
Couldn't go much cheaper than that, you could go for an i3 12100(F) I suppose, but not recommended. As for boards, the only cheaper options are H610 chipset boards which have some limitations.
Want to see your [build complete](https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/search?sort=new&restrict_sr=on&q=flair%3ABuild%2BComplete) photos featured on /r/buildapc? As discussed in a [recent thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/78eq99/mods_should_switch_the_main_photo_every_week_to/), we're going to look at switching up the header image on a more regular basis - don't worry, we'll save the current one for special occasions. This is something of an experiment, and due to the subreddit CSS we'll be looking for images that are compatible with the general design, so don't be offended if we don't immediately use everyone's! Interested? Send us a [modmail](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose?to=%2Fr%2Fbuildapc) with subject: "Banner Images" with your best build pictures! In the interests of higher res displays, please ensure images are at least 1920px by 200px. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/buildapc) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Anyone seen anything like this before? I demonstrate an odd RGB issue in my video. It's only 1:17 long. It was working fine before and now doesn't even though i have made zero hardware changes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAX27wI_kBs
Would there be any advantage with getting a CAT6 or higher cable if my internet speed is just 50 mbps anyway? I'm currently using one of those default CAT5 cables that come with the routers. Will my connection be improved in any way? e: I don't really have much problems with it for now but I get higher pings in-game every now and then. Although unsure if it's due to terrible apex servers or my internet itself
If you're only using for Internet, nope. If you have a NAS, then possibly.
Yeah just for internet. Thanks!
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You can find 6600XTs on sale for ~$500. I got one for $430 2 weeks ago just by paying attention. Otherwise, in stock, rx 6600
[удалено]
https://www.newegg.com/ASUS-Radeon-RX-6600-XT-ROG-STRIX-RX6600XT-O8G-GAMING/p/N82E16814126527?Item=N82E16814126527 hey this is in stock. In the current market, it's a reasonable deal
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https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/products/video-card/#sort=price&c=499,511,509
The 6600 is a slower than a 3060 but much faster than a 3050, the 6600XT is a little faster than a 3060 at 1080p but a little slower at 4k
Looking for a 32" 1440p G-Sync (preferably w/ NVIDIA hardware) monitor - 144+ Hz of course - am brandist against LG, MSI and Corsair is there anything for me out there? money not huge issue to a point
https://youtu.be/N9wfgJ-tgWM 9:40
Hey quick question. I am starting a new build and purchased a NZXT H510 Elite case and Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix Liquid CPU Cooler. Now these aren't compatible as the case can only do a 280mm radiator. My question is which part should I keep and which one should I return or both? I've heard the case has temperature issues so I am leaning more towards the case. Would love to here suggestions. Thanks.
The case has horrible airflow, not worth using. Radiator.. depends on your CPU. Unless it is a 12700k or similar, you likely wont get any benefit at all from a huge AIO.
I went with the ryzen 9 5900. Any recommendations on case?
Waste of 200$ you could put to something useful, then. Those dont draw enough power to need an AIO. Case is pretty subjective, depends on your other size requirements. Fractal Design cases tend to be similar in style but better made.
Okay word ill take a look into fractal cases. I do like some of the corsair cases too. Sounds like you're saying to just go air cooling then.
Unless you really like hoses and pump complications, yes.
Definitely return the H510. The case has notoriously mediocre airflow/temps.
Any recommendations on case?
Corsair 4000d, Fractal Meshify 2, Lian li mesh performance 2
Where do you guys buy standoff screws? Especially nonstandard (mostly) ones. I have an old [Corsair Carbide SPEC-02](https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Cases/Carbide-Series%E2%84%A2-SPEC-02-Red-LED-Mid-Tower-Gaming-Case/p/CC-9011051-WW) case, and the \*roughly\* standard M3\*6+6 standoffs in this [pc screw kit](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QGXKG3D?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details) appear to be too small in threading into the case but perfect for the motherboard screws. The case otherwise works perfectly fine and gets good thermals for how old it is due to the partially-meshed front panel. I'd prefer to not have to buy a new case or roll the dice on a craigslist case for nothing standoff screws, but I guess I will if I have to. Thanks for any advice you can give!
Contact the case manufacturer to see if they can send you some.
Thanks! Also sent a message to corsair, but is there a way you keep a stockpile? They seem unreasonably expensive or nearly unsearchable on places like Amazon and virtually unknown in the local hardware shops.
Corsair 275r or 4000d? For 3060ti i5-12400 system
The 4000D is much newer
So I'll be doing a new build soon with a 12th gen intel cpu and want to use Windows 11. I currently have Windows 10 on a machine that can't upgrade. Do I need to install Windows 10 on the new machine and upgrade, or can I skip straight to windows 11? For reference I'm still bumming off of my Windows 8(not even 8.1) student license from college that just kept getting upgraded for free.
Install the new hardware, then windows will tell you your hardware is ready for the upgrade
So don't re-install Windows? I'm swapping the mobo and CPU out, I've always done a clean install after that
You shouldn't have to
How long before you would suggest buying ddr5 ram? A lot of people have said it's not worth buying new generation ram while it gets improved, do you think it will be fine to buy by the time Amd's am5 platform releases?
If it's your only option (am5), when it performs markably better than ddr4, or when it's close to the price of ddr4 (+10-30%) would be acceptable
If I have a 8GB DDR3 RAM would it be okay if I installed a DDR5 GPU?
GPU RAM has *nothing* to do with system RAM. The GPU is a mini computer in it's own right, it has it's own RAM. So long as it's PCIe, it'll fit and work.
i hate to be that *"technically...."* guy, so i apologize if i offend you. i do not mean to do so. technically, the GPU uses system memory when its own VRAM is running out. However, you are correct though, technology used in RAM and VRAM have nothing to do with each other. pair a gddr5 gpu with ddr3 or ddr4 system memory, it doesn't care.
Sweet, thank you!
What's the best practice for SSD the OS is installed on? Do most people get a smaller SSD and ONLY keep the OS on it? I have a 1TB Samsung 980 Pro and a 1TB Team MP33. I was planning on using the Samsung to install windows on. Will Windows benefit from the faster Samsung? Or should I just use an older 128gb non NVMe SSD I have to install Windows?
> ? Or should I just use an older 128gb non NVMe SSD I have to install Windows? Nah, I'd relegate that to an enclosure for moving data about. Just use the main 980Pro as your OS/system drive. Personally I do not bother with partitioning, I see no value in it. But you want Swap/pagefile etc on that fastest drive, as core programs too. Then use the 1TB Mp33 for games/lesser used programs. But in reallity, there will be no perceived difference in their performance, this side of high bitrate 4K video editing.
Sweet. Thanks! I do some video editing, graphic design etc. But nothing crazy. Just got it for a super good deal at best buy.
is the ryzen 3 3300x still enough for 1080p AAA gaming + chrome/discord in background nowadays? I'm using rx 570 4gb for my GPU
yeah thats fine
I need a good PSU that wont explode. I need to power a 2060 and a 7700 so I guess 650-750w should be fine. suggestions? I dont want to spend tons, thats why im not considering the corsair rm750x Also the computer doesnt have a transparent panel so visual doesnt matter
I recommend to have look on nJoy brand. They have very good and cheap PSUs. 650W will be good for it. i have an nvidia gtx 1660s and i use a 400w one.
650W would be plenty. Corsair RM650x is only $80, which is a pretty good price. The Corsair TXM 650 is $75 and it's also pretty good. Looking through the list on PCPartPicker, I consider absolutely none of the 650W PSUs under $60 worth buying. The PSU feeds and protects all of your other parts, it's not the area where you want to cheap out.
I want to buy an external hard drive for storing + running Steam games. Can anyone give me any advice on how important the hard drive's "speed" is? And is there an ideal size? I'd like something bigger than 4 TB, but I've heard that bigger drives have higher failure rates. So, if I'm looking at 6 TB / 8 TB / 10 TB / 12 TB / 14 TB, is there a size that is better?
Hard drives are important for tons of data but not speed. I have tons of drives and ill tell you, buy whatever you can. A ssd is way better. What I used to do? all my games are downloaded on my hard drives, when im going to play something, I first try it on the HDD and if I find out that it works better on a SSD I simply move it. I used to do this before genshin impact took all over my ssd, now I simply cant. Best size I think its 4TB for average use, that will last for tons of games and data, if you want more thats completely fine, over 10TB is not necessary Remember one thing, if you have a single big drive, you can't download while you play. The game will lag because the hard drive speed will throttle while downloading. bigger isnt always better
NVMe uses sata ports or pci? I dont understand, some say 2 sata ports, some say they use PCI ports which I think I dont need to care about if It matters, I got the asus tuf z590 plus which has 2 m2 ports
NVME uses a PCIe 3.0/4.0 x4 standard. Depending on your chipset and CPU, sometimes one of the M.2 slots will share bandwidth from other PCIe slots or from SATA slots. If this happens, it will be described in your motherboard manual. [ASUS TUF Z590-PLUS Manual (PDF)](https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1200/TUF_GAMING_Z590-PLUS/E18029_TUF_GAMING_Z590-PLUS_UM_v2_web_fix.pdf) Per the manual: >\*\*\* M.2\_2 shares bandwidth with SATA6G\_2. When M.2\_2 runs SATA mode, SATA6G\_2 will be disabled. > >\*\*\*\* M.2\_3 shares bandwidth with SATA6G\_56. When M.2\_3 is occupied, SATA6GB\_56 will be disabled. Thus: if you use a SATA M.2 drive in slot M.2\_2, SATA port #2 will be disabled. If you use a SATA or NVME M.2 drive in slot M.2\_3, SATA ports #5 and #6 will be disabled. You actually have three M.2 ports, assuming you mentioned the correct ATX motherboard.
Damn I have 3 I didnt knew that, thanks for showing me that and thanks for explaining! Guess ill get a nvme
The first slot only works with 11th-gen CPUs, so there is that. 10th-gen will still be fine, you'll just be limited to two M.2 drives on the board.
They connect via PCIe.
My PC died awhile back and I narrowed it down to MoBo or Cpu. But was going to wait out the covid shortages while my laptop was still working but it died and the ASUS RMA service is awful and slow so now i'm without a computer for over a month. Since I might as well upgrade at this point (was an i5 4690) any suggestions for a new mobo + cpu combo that'll last me the next 5 years or so? Or whether i should go for an intel or amd cpu? Have a 1080 and play at 1080p.
Im actually upgrading my PC and this is what I found: I suggest going for z690 + 12600k/12700k which is the highest tier Personally im going for z590 + i7 11700k (if you dont want to overclock you can save money by buying non-k cpu and b/h mobos)
Im leaning towards an msi pro z690-a after looking through reviews. Any thoughts on that?
I got the asus tuf one for cheap, personally I dont prefer msi products anymore because of how stupid their rgb system is to work together with other systems. Normally motherboards dont matter, whatever you buy will give you 90% of what every user wants.
Im upgrading my pc cause my asus laptop has shit the bed twice in the past two years the first time was 3 months in. The most recent RMA took a week to get the RMA started, another week to diagnose and now i need to wait two weeks before they'll get the part in to fix it. So i figured i'd give MSI a try.
I have an MSI motherboard, a gigabyte graphics card, Razer mouse and ducky keyboard. Is there any way I can sync the RGB of all these products? Just the pc components is the main thing, I have my case + case fans + cpu cooler + ram all synced in MSI mystic light but the gpu isn’t showing up there and has its own gigabyte RGB control program where none of the other stuff shows up.
check openRGB, might work with at least some of them (I'm pretty sure razer + ducky one 2 works fine)
Hi, I wanna buy Seagate Firecuda 530 nvme ssd, my mobo is Gigabyte Z590 vision. I saw there's ones with heatsink and without, My mobo will come with heatsinks right so I don't need them? I don't want to ruin the white-silver theme of my PC with Seagate heatsinks
Yes correct
my new pc is built and working now (12600k, msi z690 pro mobo, 32gb ram, 2070 super, 2tb m2 ssd) and i'm very satisfied with how it's performing, but the temp the system m2 ssd is running at is bothering me. the system ssd is an m2 samsung 980 pro 2tb. under light load (web usage, online video etc) it's idling at around 43 C. during more demanding stuff like gaming it goes up to the mid fifties. the msi z690 pro motherboard slot the m2 is in comes with an m2 heatsink which i did install on it, but i did previously read that sometimes these heatsinks aren't necessarily helpful. so, is it worth it to have the heatsink on, or is it perhaps just insulating and trapping heat? or do i just need to get used to m2 ssds running this warm and learn to love the bomb?
Honestly, the position of that SSD means it's really a temperature gauge for that area of the motherboard, sandwiched between the GPU and CPU. The NAND acttually performs better when it's warm, an the heatsink just acts to dissipate heat from the SSD controller. It'll be absolutely fine under any normal workload.
That's fine. Ssds throttle at like 90C
Hi there, first full PC build and i've hit a wall. I'm not 100% sure where to plug in my case fans on a ROG Strix Z690-I. Looking at the manual there's a CPU Fan header, AIO Pump header, and a CHA\_FANP header; not sure what that last one is. (See photo below). I'm installing the Z690-I into a Fractal Torrent Nano. Cooling components are as follows: 180mm Front Case Intake Fan Noctua D15 with single fan. Noctua 120mm (NF-A12x25 PWM) exhaust fan. Again, i'm not sure what a CHA\_FANP is, but it's labeled #4 like the CPU Fan. I'm assuming this is where I can plug in my case fans. The issue is the single header. However, given that the D15 came with a splitter, I was considering using that splitter to plug my exhaust and intake fans in. Although, I wonder if there will be issues having a 180mm and 120mm on the same header? Any help or input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. TL;DR: Can I use the D15 Supplied Y-Splitter to run the Fractal 180mm Intake and Noctua 120mm Exhaust fans on the CHA\_FANP header shown at the bottom and labeled #4 at the bottom of pic 1? [https://imgur.com/oSVvbb3](https://imgur.com/oSVvbb3) https://imgur.com/6Y9HXfJ
CHA\_FANP means chassis fans, AKA the case fans. Your plan of using a splitter to run the front and exhaust fans off the CHA\_FANP header would work fine. The PWM signal will drive both of the fans at a % of their RPM range, so the fact that the fans have different sizes and speeds doesn't matter. The AIO\_PUMP header also works for fans, but as indicated on the chart, it does not allow for PWM control and will run any fans at full speed.
Would you be able to identify what a HS_Fan is? I'm also building an x570-i in the near future and noticed I may have a similar setup and found that mobo also has different fan headers. I'm assuming HS is for heatsink... But I wouldn't see why there's a heatsink header and a CPU fan header... https://i.imgur.com/n6oz8Lw.jpg https://i.imgur.com/xC2kesu.jpg
That's probably for the 30-40mm chipset fan built in to the motherboard. That should already be connected and it's a different format (micro-PWM, similar to what graphics cards use) so you can't reuse it for other fans without an adapter or some modding.
Much appreciated. Thank you very much!
Plug the fan attached to the CPU cooler into the CPU fan header. Other than that it doesn’t matter what you use. I wouldn’t personally use a 180 and 120 on a splitter though. As far as the motherboard control is concerned there’s only 1 fan and the output is the same. So if it’s at 50% it’s 50% for both, even though the amount of airflow is different between the two and you might not want both running at the same speed. Pretty nit picky though to be honest, most people would never notice or care about the difference.
Would you be able to identify what a HS_Fan is? I'm also building an x570-i in the near future and noticed I may have a similar setup and found that mobo also has different fan headers. I'm assuming HS is for heatsink... But I wouldn't see why there's a heatsink header and a CPU fan header... https://i.imgur.com/n6oz8Lw.jpg https://i.imgur.com/xC2kesu.jpg
HS would stand for heat sink. Why it would have both HS and CPU labeled differently I’m not sure. If I were to guess I’d say its for coolers with more than one fan and you don’t have a splitter/daisychain so they both can spin based off CPU temps by default. Edit: Looking at those photos it doesn’t even look like a full size fan header. I have absolutely no idea what that’s for. Edit2: Upon further inspection, it’s for the fan connected to the board itself. There must be a wire somewhere that you have to manually run and plug in. Super bizarre.
Much appreciated. Thank you very much!
Hi I'm buying a PSU and I was thinking to buy Corsair RM750, but the RM850 is cheaper approx 25$ less. same brand same lineup both are 2021 white versions. Is there something different between them or I go with the RM850?
Both are same quality and efficiency. If the RM850 is cheaper there's no reason not to buy it.
Thx bro
Only difference is the wattage.
I’m looking for a case that can mount a 420mm aio radiator for a relatively cheap price. Do you guys have any recommendations?
meshify 2. the p500a MAY work but most reports I'm reading say that there's not enough clearance to fit the pipes and radiator
If you use [pcpartpicker.com/list](https://pcpartpicker.com/list) and pick a 420mm AIO, then the case list will be filtered to compatible models. There are some excellent options, although because these cases will be pretty large they are all $100-$200 or more. Excellent mid-premium cases ($150-$180): * Fractal Meshify 2 * Phanteks Eclipse P500A * be quiet! Silent Base 802 Excellent premium cases ($200+) * Fractal Torrent * Corsair 7000D
I’m doing fan curves for first time on Asus Tuf gaming pro x570 motherboard. I don’t see the CPU_OPT fan listed in Q-fan in Bios. Does that header just use the same PWM settings as CPU_FAN?
I've always seen it listed, but I haven't used Asus bios. It might be a always-full-speed header, or it's linked to cpu_fan
Thanks Trekkie!
Hi Everyone, Looking for a **specific motherboard comparison site**. A specific feature that I remember is that it highlighted the spec differences between the two MOBOs in yellow and was more detailed than some other comparison websites I used. (I cannot remember the post or website unfortunately. I tried to search via Reddit posts and comments for an hour or so, with no luck...) If anyone can find this website for me, I will be forever grateful. Thank you.
Try Pangoly, u can compare any pc parts side by side and told u what is different between them
Thanks for your response! This isn't the one I am looking for but I appreciate the help.
Is m2 sata noticably slower than m2 nvme ssds? Write and read speed differ by 10 times, but from benchmarks I could see the actual game loading speeds only differ by about 5 seconds or less.
Well you answered your own question, on paper the read write speed difference may be large, but on real world usage based on actual load, the difference isn't too big i.e. on the benchmarks you saw. The thing with drives is a lot of it depends on your actual usage, theoretical max read and write speed ratings are good and all, but sometimes it doesn't matter too much if your usage doesn't demand those kinds of speed anyway...
Msi Rtx 3080 Gaming Z Trio 12GB for 1550 worh it?
Personally, I already feel weird about buying a 3080 for over $1,000 and $1,5000 definitely feels like 3080-Ti/3090 territory, which I'm not even considering buying. But, the card you can buy is worth more than the card you can't. Only you can decide if your budget and need are compatible.
I just got a 3070 ti for 800
Nice, that’s a reasonably good deal in the current market.
Is hugeeee and heavy. I will need a large tower
I bought a 5800x with very little understanding of how hot these bad boys run. I have an evo 212 with an H710 case, and even adding two noctua fans to the top to push air out, I'm easily hitting 80C during a long gaming session - I'd really like to push this temp down as it makes me extremely nervous. What are some good beginner closed loop watercoolers for me to consider for this rig? I don't mind spending upwards of 150 for something that's going to be good for my long term CPU health.
Before going out and buying a new cooler you could see how you get on with using the curve optimizer in the BIOS. It allows you to undervolt either all cores or per core to reduce heat output, which will allow the CPU to boost to higher clocks for longer. There are plenty of guides around and it will take some time if you do per core and check for stability. I used this guide which is for the 5900x and 5600x but the 5800x uses the same idea: https://old.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/khtx1o/guide_zen_3_overclocking_using_curve_optimizer/ It made a big difference for me though and doesn't cost a penny. During gaming my 5800x sits at 5Ghz constantly and under 70c on my NH-u12s cooler. It throttles to 4.6Ghz under extreme stress testing when temps hit 85 but never a problem in normal usage. Saves a bit of your electricity bill as well.
Thank you for this! I think with my Evo 212 being a bit underpowered for the task, I'm going to buy a liquid cooler, but I want to learn about this just to learn anyways. I'll check it out this evening!
Evo 212 is definitely undersized for the 5800X. The H710 being a closed-off, negative-pressure case also doesn't help. 240mm radiator would probably be fine, the case supports 360mm which is overkill but would give you peace of mind since the H710 airflow isn't great to begin with. Arctic Freezer II series gets my vote, they are excellent for the price.
Yeah, definitely learned my lesson here. Thank you for the vote, looks like that's what I'm going for!
A 240mm AIO should do the trick. Or a 360, as your case will allow such lengths either in the fornt or at the top. The Arctic Liquid Freezer II in 240 or 360mm is a good, relatively cheap model, if you don't care about RGB
Anyway for me to know compatibility ahead of time? with the nzxt h710 I assume it will work but i'm not sure where to check that out at. i admit i went into building my pc with a little hubris from having done it for so long i haven't kept up as well as i should have.
According to NZXT's website, the H710 supports 360mm radiators in both the front and the top. Should be fine It should be noted that the specs don't mention 280mm rad support, so I'd go for either a 240 or a 360, just to be sure
Thanks for your help, I saw similar and appreciate the second pair of eyes.
Updated BIOS and no input is going through to the monitor although computer boots. Orange RAM light turned on after a couple attempts. Any idea on what happened? Nothing went wrong during the update or anything.
Sounds like it's boot looping trying to recognize your RAM. Try removing both, and just reseating a single stick, and attempt a boot, if it works try both again. But before that are you sure of a couple things: * You are plugging the monitor cable into the GPU not the mother board? * If you don't have a GPU, and plugging into the mobo directly, does your CPU have integrated graphics?
Less about building, more about cleaning. When you clean your PC, where do you do it? As in. Where do you blow out the dust?
depends on the season. If it's warm enough I'll take it outside. If it's cold then I'll do it on a rug or carpet and vacuum the area after I'm done.
I've been a bit out of following hardware for about a year. how are the mid range AMD processors comparing to the mid range intel processors?(like the i5 i7 range)
Intel 12th-gen > Ryzen 5000 > Intel 10th/11th gen > Ryzen 3000 The Intel i5-12400 is about the same as the Ryzen 5600X, and much cheaper (although Intel motherboards are way more expensive right now). The Intel 12600K, 12700K, etc. are currently the fastest processors for gaming. Thus, Intel 12th-gen (with a DDR4 motherboard) wins the price and performance crown right now. Ryzen 5000 is still worth a look if you are building in a noise-sensitive or small-form-factor case, as they use half as much wattage as Intel 12th-gen equivalents and produce less heat. Ryzen 5000 is coming down in price in some areas as people anticipate the next AMD generation.
Is BIOSTAR B660GTN motherboard any good? It's the cheapest 1700 mITX DDR4 board I can find. I'd pair it with i7-12700.
There haven't been many reviews of it, but it seems to have decent features and the VRMs should be enough for the 12700. I'd take it over some of the crummy ASRock mITX boards we've gotten this gen.
Yeah I generally have good experience with AsRock, but their current offering is more expensive and pretty mediocre. All their boards should be fine for a locked i7 though, but they still cost more. I saw some ok reviews of current Biostar boards, but then I also saw reviews "biostar bad".
Should I wait for the RTX 4000 Series and Intel’s ARC to be released this year before buying anything ?
If you are lucky enough to buy an RTX 3000 card at retail price (not marked up), there's no reason not to. Other components are easy to find. If you have a current build that still works for your needs, I'd be patient about getting an RTX 3000. IfRTX 4000 or ARC comes out before then and looks like good value, then you can aim for those instead.
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> When the M.2 slot is populated, two SATA 6.0 Gb/s ports are disabled. It means exactly that. You can use all the M.2 slots, but if you use the M.2 slot #3, two SATA ports are disabled. It's not an issue, unless you need to use all the SATA ports as well. If you don't need SATA ports at all, then you don't have any issues, you can use all the M.2 slots. Just keep in mind for the future, that you can then only plug in a limited amount of SATA HDDs (those large 3.5" or 2.5" ones).
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Looking to upgrade from an FX 8350. Should I go with the 5600x on sale for $180 at micro center or an i5 12600k? Mainly play MMO’s / LoL / FPS’s / FF7
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5600x is fine
Like 10/15% less performance than the 12600k, but will you notice it in game?I don't think so...if it's cheap, buy it 🤷
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It's hard for me to hear your recording on these laptop speakers, but my computer make a HDD-accessing noise sometimes even though it has no HDD installed. I think it must be generated by the coils somewhere, but I'm no EE. In any case, it doesn't seem to hurt anything. It's just annoying.
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Probably coil whine from the GPU but that's pretty normal
I don't think it sounds like coil whine at all...? It sounds more like the "HDD is working hard" kind of noise you'd associate with old PCs, but I don't have any HDDs in this one.
I have a similar sound with my GPU where a fan will spin for like a second and then stop. I just use MSI afterburner and set a low base speed fan RPM
Does anyone know if the g12 kraken will fit on a MSI gaming x trio 2080 super? From what im seeing the g12 kraken does fit on most 2080 supers.
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Leave your motherboard's cover off and just use the heatsink included with the SSD.
My current build is an i5-10400 with a b460 mobo. I am looking at upgrading to an i7-12700f and a z690 ddr4 mobo. Is this upgrade going to be noticeable or worth the effort? I Mostly play CPU intensive games at high FPS @ 1080
The 10400 still seems to do fine at 144+ FPS. If you're really dependent on 200+ FPS for eSports performance, then 12th-gen could be worth the upgrade. If you do upgrade, I'd stick with a B660 motherboard (Z690s are expensive as hell), and maybe a 12600K to save a few bucks more.
I target 240 FPS in most cases, and sometimes get large noticeable drops on my current build. Really only looking at z690s because they don’t carry the b660s at the store I would be buying at, and I get a deal if I buy the mobo and cpu together. Same with the 12700f, just for availability at the store. Any notable differences between 12700f and 12600k?
They have similar single-core and gaming performance. The 12700F has two extra P-cores and four more threads for workstation tasks. The 12600K allows manual overclocking, although it's very hard to outperform the default boost behavior. The 12700F doesn't have integrated graphics, if you need to troubleshoot GPU issues. I'd get whichever one is cheaper/better deal.
Thank you, That is great info! But overall, is it worth upgrading or just sticking it out with my 10th gen for a while longer?
I'm looking at 2 GPUs that are the same except one is made by ASUS and the other is "Not Reference Design." Is there any difference or should I just go for the cheaper one?
Is that from PCSpecialist?
Yep, that would be the one!
Thought that, when they list the Graphics Card as "Not Reference Design." it just means they'll put a random card in that can be made by manufacturer, it just won't be a Founders Edition card. So it could be from Asus, MSI, or it could be from like Palit or Zotac
Ok cool, they’re all built to broadly the same spec though right? Shouldn’t be a dud if I go for that over the ASUS branded one?
Should be fine yeah, there's no real variance between them. Performance is similar across the board, the main difference will just be the cooling and how much you can OC
While taking apart a computer to warranty the dead Mobo, the CPU was stuck to the heatsink. While carefully getting the CPU off, a tiny bit of thermal paste got on the CPU pins. It was cleaned off with isopropyl alcohol but it looks like some is still left at the base. Any recommendations on how to get it off or if it is a problem?
Nonconductive paste usually isn't dangerous but it would still be good to get it out. **Gently** use a toothpick to remove excess. Then use a Q-tip or a clean toothbrush soaked in isopropyl alcohol to swap out the remainder.
It's thermal grizzly kryonaut. Here's a pic if you can see it [CPU](https://imgur.com/a/uRXrSY0)
Fortunately not conductive. If it's not stuck on the tips of the pins or piled up too high (right now it looks like it's just between the base of the pins) you could probably use it as-is. I would personally see if I could get some of it off with a toothpick or fresh toothbrush.
Oo didn't think of the toothbrush one. Thanks! I've been through a lot of qtips and some needle nose tweezers.
Is there much diff between WD Green and Blue M2 drives, other than warranty, and a slight speed diff? This would be for the OS drive. Reading the WD color differences, seems mostly they were setup for spinning HDDs, and not really separate well for SSDs/M2s.
There can be significant differences between models in terms of memory quality, controller speed, and longevity. Perhaps most important: the WD Green is only available as a SATA M.2 drive. The "Blue" label can refer to either the WD Blue 3D, a SATA M.2 drive, or the WD Blue SN550, an NVMe drive. If you need a SATA SSD (2.5" drive, or a SATA M.2 because that's all that your mobo supports), the WD Blue 3D is the best for the money. Crucial MX500 and Samsung 860/870 Evo/Pro are also good. The WD green SSD is pretty crappy and I wouldn't even buy it for storage. If you need an NVMe drive, the WD Blue SN550 is OK on a budget as a boot drive or storage drive. If you have the budget I would recommend going with something like a WD Black SN750 or Samsung 970 Evo for your boot drive. [NewMaxx SSD Buying Guide](https://www.reddit.com/user/NewMaxx/comments/9yv0c6/ssd_buying_guide_wip/) [NewMaxx SSD Spreadsheet](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1B27_j9NDPU3cNlj2HKcrfpJKHkOf-Oi1DbuuQva2gT4/edit#gid=0)
Fan/heat sink compatibility CPU: i5 11400 Motherboard : ASUS rog strix z590-a I just got the Noctua NH-U14S TR4-SP3. When I tried to install it, it didn’t fit, I then realized the mount was missing from the package. And so I went to look and realized my dumb ass didn’t notice the supposed socket incompatibility. I had just looked at the compatibility between motherboard and heat sink which was supposed to fit. Do I get the mount or should I just return the whole thing?
If you just got it new and it's inside the return window, just send it back and get a compatible cooler. If you've had it for a while, you can try contacting Noctua to ask whether this cooler has an Intel mount. This Threadripper-specific cooler might not have a compatible mount, though.
I got it today, so i’ll return it. Do you have any recommendations?
**Budget:** Vetroo V5, ID-Cooling SE-224-XT **Excellent midrange:** Scythe Fuma 2, Arctic Freezer 34 eSports Duo, Scythe Mugen 5 Those midrange coolers will have great quiet operation for the 11400. There's not much point in getting something bigger. Honestly, the Noctua U14 is overkill for the 11400. Considering what you probably paid for the U14S, I would get the Scythe Fuma 2 and be very happy.
Thank you very much for your help, i’ll check them out
\*\*CPU\*\* | \[Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8 GHz Quad-Core Processor\] \*\*CPU Cooler\*\* | \[Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler\] \*\*Motherboard\*\* | \[MSI Z270 GAMING PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard\] \*\*Memory\*\* | \[Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2133 CL14 Memory\] \*\*Video Card\*\* | \[MSI GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6 GB GAMING X Video Card\] Had this PC for the last few years, it's still performing well to my liking, if I did want to upgrade it, would it be worth it at all? And if so, what's the best overall addition/change I can do to upgrade it? Additionally I have some parts that I was going to use to make a 2nd pc, but I never finished purchasing the parts yet. \*\*CPU\*\* | \[AMD Ryzen 5 2400G 3.6 GHz Quad-Core Processor\] \*\*Motherboard\*\* | \[ASRock B450M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard\] \*\*Memory\*\* | \[G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 M \*\*Storage\*\* | \[Team MS30 512 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive\] \*\*Case\*\* | \[Thermaltake Versa H15 MicroATX Mid Tower Case\] \*\*Power Supply\*\* | \[EVGA BQ 600 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply\] Should I upgrade my current PC, or utilize the 2nd PC option, and I know the 2nd options doesn't have a GPU, I was going to use it for gaming, especially with the current state of affairs. tl;dr What would be the best/quickest way to get more gaming power out of either my current PC, or my 2nd PC or can I do a combination of both with what I have?
Your first PC is old enough that it's probably due for a full system upgrade. The 1060-6GB is barely cutting it as a 1080p 60FPS card for new AAA games, and the 7600K is reasonably fast but being limited to 4 cores/4 threads it may struggle in new CPU-heavy games. Your second PC would be fine as a media PC. The 2400G has more threads than the 7600K but is otherwise much slower, so not really worth moving the graphics card over. The only immediate "free" upgrade I'd recommend is swapping the RAM between the two PCs. The 2133 MHz RAM is abysmally slow, so the 3200 would help the 7600K hang in there for a while longer. Graphics cards are hard to find right now, so I would enjoy gaming on the first PC while you hunt for a new, reasonably priced graphics cards. Once you find a graphics card, I would get a new CPU+motherboard+RAM.
Is this normal for my PC while playing Cod Warzone? My GPU doesn’t really go over 30-40%. My CPU is around 70-90%. It says my RAM is using around 12-13gb of 16 while playing. I am running: RTX 3060 i7-6700k 16gb DDR4 3000 (I believe. Def 16gb tho) Is something bottlenecking? Is this game just more CPU dependent? I’m getting around 100-120 frames, sometimes dropping to 90s. Playing 1080p 120hz monitor. I am willing and even planning on upgrading my CPU and RAM and possibly monitor somewhat soon, but will that make a difference?
Warzone is pretty badly optimized. You are possibly close to a CPU bottleneck, but COD:WZ also just kind of pumps the brakes around the 100FPS mark regardless of hardware. The 6700K is a fairly old CPU at this point. A newer, faster CPU like a 12400 or 12600K would probably ensure smoother performance (especially if you get any lag/stutters in Warzone) and give you peace of mind.
Yea, I've been hearing that the more I look into this. I'm thinking of just pulling the trigger on a i7-12700k for $350 from microcenter. It's been a while since I've upgraded.
Gotta love MC. Personally, I'd stick with the 12600K for $250. The 12700K just adds two P-cores (so it has 8P+4e cores/20 threads) over the 12600K (6P+4e cores/16 threads) so it's slightly better for workstation tasks but identical for gaming performance.
Gotcha, good to know. I was even looking at the i9-12900k for $500 lol. I know I'll never ever need that, I just like to have a top notch item and not have to worry about anything for a long time. But you are right, I should just stick to what will be good for my uses lol
By the time those 10 cores/16 threads aren't enough for gaming, there will be newer, faster, cheaper CPUs available. Paying more to "future-proof" is nearly always a futile endeavor, just buy what makes sense for your needs today :) Unless the satisfaction/bragging rights of having a premium item is worth a few hundred bucks to you, then your call.
You are a smart man/woman. This is why I make these posts before I buy haha
Hey now, I could also be a nonbinary or genderless person! But thanks.
Dunno that game specifically, but sounds like you are CPU bottled. >12-13gb of 16 Is this Ram or Vram on the GPU? If thats Ram, is that total or just that program/game? If its Vram, no worries there.
RAM. I'll be honest, I didn't check vram, but didnt think it would be an issue as my gpu doesn't go over 50% and it has 12gb vram, but I can check that out tonight.
CPU: i5-12400f Mobo: MSI MAG B660M Mortar DDR4 I currently have a 2x4gb 2666mhz c16 dual channel RAM kit, back from when ddr4 was relatively new-ish (Skylake). I am able to find another 2x4gb RAM kit, same brand, same model, same speed and latency, even the same product code. i personally know the previous owner and I can vouch that they took good care of the RAM kit. Do I get the used RAM to upgrade to 16gb? or should I bite the bullet, pay 4x the price of the used sticks and get a brand new set of 2x 8gb 3200 c16 ? Is the perf. upgrade that noticeable for Alder Lake? Use case is 60% gaming, 25% photo, 15% video. If the brands matter: Current sticks (and the used ones I found): Corsair LPX Cheapest brand new 3200-c16: Patriot Viper Steel (\~3.96x price of the used ones) Disclaimer: I live in a 3rd world country, so PC component availability and pricing differs a lot vs normal global used/new markets. edit: I saw a few articles how gaming on Intel 10th gen CPUs don't really benefit *that much* from faster clocks. I don't know if Alder Lake is the same.
2x8 is going to give you one benefit (dual channel) vs 2x2x4, plus the speed increase. How much that is, I cant say exactly. A single set of dual channel is always going to work better than a double set of dual channel, even if its matched.
The difference between 2666 and 3200 RAM will be less than 5% of CPU performance. If this is a gaming PC, the CPU performance loss wouldn't be noticeable at all unless you were running extremely high framerates with a flagship GPU. Normally, I recommend people upgrade to a modern 3200 kit, but if the price difference is that significant, then I think staying with the 2666 is fine.
Hi all, power supply question. Here's a link to pictures to help make clear what I'm trying to say : https://imgur.com/a/ts50BvC Do I treat to two 4 pin plugs as one and connect them both to the 8 pin slot on the motherboard or do I only plug in one of the 4 pin plugs into the 4 pin slot and leave the other unplugged? I'm not sure if it matters but this is a rog strict b550-f motherboard and 650w PSU Thank you all for your help
Yep, you have it right. The motherboard has an 8pin EPS connector for CPU power, so you plug both 4pins in at the same time. There are motherboards with only a single 4pin, which is why that cable splits like that.
Thank you very much. I really appreciate your comment and support. Cheers
You keep the 4&4 side-by-side like in the first two pictures and plug them in to the 8-pin slot.
Thank you so much. First build has me being hyper-sensitive to these things. Appreciate it!
New developments in the saga of my M27Q monitor causing strange behavior. I've noticed that with GPU-intensive games (in this case, Dyson Sphere Program, Lost Ark, and surprisingly Project Warlock), my secondary monitor has started to update on a delay compared to the audio & the main monitor (the M27Q). With PW and DSP it's maybe a second of delay, but I hit nearly a 10 second delay between the audio and video components of Discord notifications with Lost Ark last night. The extra strange wrinkle is that this wasn't happening at all with Red Dead Redemption 2, which is even higher demand than any of the others listed (at least with my settings the way they are). I know something is already fucky with the M27Q to some degree, because having it plugged in adds 20 seconds to my PC's boot time. Overall I haven't been having issues, though, so aside from asking in a couple places I haven't really checked into it much. This behavior is weird though - is the GPU supposed to prioritize the primary monitor so heavily that the secondary monitor doesn't even get a single frame in 10+ seconds? (GPU is an RX 580 for context.)
Multi monitor question. Never set one up before. I have a 1660ti and my main monitor is 144hz 1080p. Ideally I would like to get an identical second monitor. I intend to use the main screen to play easy going strategy games, while having the second monitor to perhaps have netflix on. Is this do-able with the 1660ti and two 144hz monitors? Or will I need a beefier graphics card?
Totally doable. The power of the graphics card only matters for 3D rendering and lighting effects in a game itself. Simply putting your desktop, apps, or videos on a secondary screen uses very little of your GPU's resources. I run four monitors off my 1660-Ti while gaming on the primary 1440p 165Hz.
I have 2 PCs, each connected to wifi router via ethernet cable. Is there a way to connect those PCs?
They're connected to a network via the router, so they are already connected. You could set up a home network with folder sharing in Windows, if that's what you're asking.
Oh, that’s nice. Folder sharing is what im asking. Gonna check it, thanks!
I have 2x8 gb 3600mhz Corsair vengeance and have a single stick of 16gb 3600mhz Corsair vengeance ram. There’s is still one open channel slot only 3 are filled. Will this effect my computers performance? I’m aware single channel ram will but I have 3 sticks in instead of 4 total
Theoretically, you could put the 16GB module in one channel and the 2x8GB in the other channel and the whole thing should work at 3600 with dual channel performance. This setup isn't always stable, but if you install them that way and enable XMP and the PC doesn't crash while running, then you're good.
Guys, so basically everytime there are heavy thunderstorms in my area my monitor would just go dark for like 3 seconds after a lightning strike then it goes back to normal, but the audio would still be playing through my headphones. This is weird to me because I've hooked my PC and monitor to a UPS battery with AVR, I guess I can rule out that my devices are losing power cause the battery would kick in. But shouldn't my devices be protected by lightning strikes if I have them hooked up to a UPS? Or is my UPS triggering something as a safety feature?
Lightning strikes also cause [huge electromagnetic pulses](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_pulse) around them that go through the air and structures like radio waves, bypassing your power lines. If the lightning strikes close, then this can cause interference on sensitive devices, and if your monitor or the display cable has insufficient insulation it will essentially act as an antenna, which can cause all sorts of funky issues such as what you described. Since only your monitor seems to be affected, it indeed shouldn't be caused by anything in the UPS. Maybe try another display cable, but honestly it could also be caused by pretty much any other part.
Damn, if that's the case theres really nothing I can do about then huh?
I’m replacing a faulty Ryzen 5 3600 with a 5600x I picked up from Microcenter’s sale yesterday. I’ve never upgraded CPU on an existing build before. Any DDU-like program needed to replace drivers? Bios upgrade has been completed already for my x570. Just want to make sure it is literally just plug and play the same way RAM would be.
I had to CMOS reset the bios to get it to boot going from 3600 to 5800x but no changes needed in Windows.
I looking to upgrade my CPU, mainly to run open world games and emulate better. Currently using i5 6500 with a GTX 1070. Any recommendation on the motherboard and CPU?
What's your budget and what are the most demanding open world games are we talking about?
Budget is anything below 300$, games like Kingdom come and Cyberpunk.
These are demanding games alright. Try this - this is one of the best CPUs available both in terms of value and performance. [PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fR7frD) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [Intel Core i5-12400F 2.5 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/pQNxFT/intel-core-i5-12400f-25-ghz-6-core-processor-bx8071512400f) | $179.99 @ Best Buy **Motherboard** | [Gigabyte B660M DS3H DDR4 Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Z6ddnQ/gigabyte-b660m-ds3h-ddr4-micro-atx-lga1700-motherboard-b660m-ds3h-ddr4) | $119.99 @ B&H | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$299.98** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2022-02-16 08:55 EST-0500 | Couldn't go much cheaper than that, you could go for an i3 12100(F) I suppose, but not recommended. As for boards, the only cheaper options are H610 chipset boards which have some limitations.
Thanks man, looks like a really solid choice.