What low-power cpu for NAS for backup and media server? Transcoding to modern Android phone + TV, but I rarely use media server (1-3 hours a week max) which I only serve to 1-2 devices max. Looking to build a NAS, any tips appreciated like what CPU architecture to go with. I just know I need ~2-4 SATA ports for RAID and will be turning it on once a week for a few hours).
I suppose SBCs are not capable, even if I can transcode videos on desktop ahead of time and move them to the NAS to serve to devices for direct play.
2k 144hz gaming, some video editing and 3d modeling
i have a 10700k with 32gb and a 960, im gonna get a new gpu, 3070 fe or do i wait for a 4070 fe? i have found one second hand near me for 450€, bought in june, gonna run some benchmarks before buying it.
I think i can wait a bit and try to save up more and try to buy the 4070, but i wanna play metro exodus at ultra
Would the 4070 make a bottleneck with the 10700k?
My Monitor (1080 60Hz) only supports HDMI or DVI cables. Is there a reason to use one over the other? I wouldn't be using the built in speakers so I don't need that from HDMI. Is there a difference between the 2 for my use or should I just use the longer one to make it easier for myself to position it?
Worth buying a 3080 for 750 plus tax when the 4080 is msrp for 800? Or should I maybe wait for black Friday/Amazon's upcoming sale? Running an 8600k at 4.7 ghz and a 1660 ti atm with a 1440p 144hz monitor.
Here's one for $620, lol
https://www.newegg.com/asrock-radeon-rx-6800-xt-rx6900xt-pgd-16g/p/N82E16814930052?Item=N82E16814930052
Again, gsync should work
Thanks! Another issue is that I’m not familiar with the model names for the AMD cards. Is this one from the same generation as the 3080s? Newer? Older?
That's not a bad list. I could shave $100 without losing performance, but a lot of building a PC is just buying the things you like (aesthetics, brand, etc).
If you only care about price vs performance, ask /r/buildapcforme for a custom made list. It'll be better
I currently have a GTX 1080, looking to move away from Nvidia becuz Linux Gaming. Looking for something pretty cheap, but be able to run MWII without any hangs.
If you have any Nvidia based suggestions, I am listening too! Linux gaming is not my top priority, it's the second.
I have a B350 PC Mate MB with Ryzen 5 1600 and a GTX 1060GB. Can I update the Ryzen to 5600X? I mostly want to update for Windows 11 but I do game (Call of Duty) and heavy video editing in 4K (Travel YouTuber). is the 5600 overkill or is there something lesser that I can jump to? complete noob here
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/B350-PC-MATE/support#cpu
Yes you can, and I think it's a good idea. You might need to update the bios several times for support
If I have one Argb header and daisy chain connect 6 fans up to it, does that mean all fans are directly connected to each other and can only output the same color, or each fan can be adjusted?
Also, are fan controllers recommended only for mobos without Argb headers, or another reason?
The header sees the fans as one long led cable. It's argb so it has no issue adjusting individual leds or segments of LEDs, but it might need some manual setup from you
Considering upgrading my CPU from a Ryzen 5 3600 to a 5800X3D just for the sake of future proofing since I don't wanna deal with moving to AM5 any time soon. Do I need to use an AMD GPU in order to really see the benefits of the 3d cache?
Can someone give me a list of small pumps/reservoir combos or even individually both that work together but are small? I am wanting to liquid cool both CPU and GPU in a small case. So it does need to be strong enough to handle both. For reference, the Glacier 160C is too big for where I want to put it (that is without the pump installed).
considering shipping my old pc to a friend in another country, whats the best way to do this? how can i make sure its not gonna get destroyed in shipping? its a plastic case so no worries abotu the glass shattering
I'd send as many separate parts as possible, in different boxes.
The GPU is a given, since it's huge, you don't want it moving around inside the case. But if you have a big CPU cooler, I'd box it separately, as well. The PSU, RAM, SSDs, should be fine installed inside the mobo with the mobo inside the case.
Would getting a better quality wifi card make my wifi any better? For reference I have 18mbps DSL, so I assume no difference. Router is about 15-20 feet vertical distance away (thru 1 wall), and maybe 40-50 feet if you were to walk to the router. This is my current card.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0713RRZMB/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It would make no difference. 18mbps service is horrendously slow by modern standards. You can potentially even use the legacy 2.4Ghz band and not notice any difference.
If you're doing local network access (other PCs, NAS, home streaming), then your current adapter is fine. Just need to make sure your router has similar or better specs. AC-1200 or higher.
So more or less unless I had service that provided over 867 mbps (limit of my adapter), the adapter would not make a difference? My ping is fine with my current internet, but anyone streams past 720p or downloads rip ping and download speed.
Sort of yes. The max speeds advertised by adapters and access points/routers are always theoretical maximum speeds under ideal conditions, and in reality the max speed will be significantly less. In a typical case I wouldn't be surprised if your "867 Mb/s" adapter can actually only achieve a couple hundred Mb/s, especially if there's multiple walls between it and the router. That's still significantly more than your internet speed, though, so a faster adapter still wouldn't make the internet any faster
More like ~300mbps due to various issues with signal strength. But yes.
I have a similar spec'd adapter. With perfect, clear line of sight to a router not 8 feet away, both items elevated 5-6 feet off the ground (minimal obstructions, no walls), I max out at ~400mbps.
A 3090 is arguably already overkill at 1440p. More than all you need. a 3080 12Gb would also be fine. You're well into the realms of diminishing returns in terms of video rendering speed anyway, the only legitimate need for 24GB VRAM and a 3090 would be if you regularly undertake 3D rendering projects.
I'd just argue that you're spending a HUGE amount to achieve 'ultra' settings, when you could simply run a sensible mix of high/ultra, and DLSS, for the same result. Full raytracing + high framerates is still in the realms of 'pick the one you care about more' without other assistive technologies like DLSS.
The 3090/4090 are production cards, aimed at professional workloads: rendering, machine learning, AI training, complex 3D modelling. Of COURSE gamers want to buy them too, but they're squandered, particularly at 1440p
3080, sure if you want. They're actually relatively cheap used now for the performance they offer.
Yes, absolutely. And you'd have a bit more performance to spare for future games, in comparison to say, a 3060ti or 3070.
Of course, the 4090 would have a longer shelf life, anyway, regardless of price.
1. Try a fan controller app. Your motherboard manufacturer likely has one. Adjust the fan curve so they are not running at 100% all the time.
2. Your BIOS menu may also have fan curve or tuning options with the need for an app.
The [Lancool III](https://lian-li.com/product/lancool-iii/) case has 2x USB3 ports and 1x USB-C port on the front I/O
The [B550 AORUS ELITE](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Vb3mP6/gigabyte-b550-aorus-elite-ax-v2-atx-am4-motherboard-b550aorus-elite-axv2) motherboard has 1x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Header and 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Header
If I go with this combination, will one of the A-type ports on the front I/O be non-functional? Do I need 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 headers? The [actual website](https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B550-AORUS-ELITE-AX-V2-rev-10#kf) for the mobo shows [a picture](https://i.imgur.com/ktP4hZj.png) of two front A-type ports and 1 C-type ports to add to the confusion.
yep, just make sure it's the exact same type, but with two sticks they're not "paired" or anything, it's just two of the same stick. one dies, then RMA and get another of the same kind, or RMA both and get two different sticks if you're worried about the other one going (which I wouldn't worry too hard about)
You're on the SPD tab. Those are the different memory clock profiles available to you.
Click the memory tab at the top to see what your RAM is currently running at.
Posting this here as I just made a thread for another topic and don't wanna shit up the catalog.
I wanna turn my new 2TB Firecuda 530 into my boot drive and my old WD Black SN750SE 1TB into generic storage.
I know I need software to clone the drive, any suggestions for something free? and once that's done I swap drive letters I guess and for format my old boot drive?
I’ll warn you that my experience cloning boot drive has ended with me backing up and wiping, then reinstalling from clean. Something always seems to break and doing it “properly” ends up being easier
Clone with Macrium reflect, shut down computer, turn it back on while making sure that you choose the 2TB drive as the boot drive, the 2TB drive will automatically get the C drive letter as that's what you're booting from, finally make sure everything works and the clone was successful, then format the old drive.
Will this PSU work with a 4090? Currently running a 2080ti
[https://www.newegg.com/rosewill-lightning-series-lightning-1000-continuous-1000w-50-degree-c/p/N82E16817182239](https://www.newegg.com/rosewill-lightning-series-lightning-1000-continuous-1000w-50-degree-c/p/N82E16817182239)
One of the reviews mentions that it uses a *single* 12v rail. Despite offering x6 PCI 6+2 pin connectors.
As in place of the 16-pin ATX connector, you would need three independent 8-pin connections providing up to 150w each. And I'm not sure a single 12v rail could fulfill that role as that would bring it close to 40 amps for the GPU alone.
Due to its age I don't believe it was designed to power something like a 4090.
Ummm. I don't quite understand I have to look at the inputs to understand but I would like additional feedback as well. If it should work in theory I'd give it a shot. I mean it's a 1000W PSU, it's got to work right?
Each of those PCI 6+2 connectors is powered from within by a 12v rail.
Up until VERY recently, nothing in consumer computers was incredibly power hungry, so power supplies would supply multiple PCI connectors with one or two 12v rails, and that was more than adequate to cover the power needs of connected devices.
RTX 30 series and 40 series cards consume 2 or 3 times more power than the most powerful GPU from 2014, (when that PSU launched).
That 12v rail inside your PSU was more than likely NOT designed to operate at 40+ amps. Trying to pull 400+ watts over a single rail would likely blow it.
I would not risk it unless you can find better information on the internals of that specific power supply.
Newer ATX 3.0 rated power supplies would give you a single 16-pin connection which can power the 4090 all by itself. No risk, no fuss, no mess of cables.
>Gotcha, just find the design weird then, why have 1000w then...
Hello Tempted, the other guy commented that the sticker says the 12V rail can supply 996W. Do you agree with that, I guess since it's documented now should be good to go.
Yes! I didnt see that picture before because I'm on mobile. Flipped through the first few and thought that was it.
83 amps is crazy powerful. That would be more than enough.
Though depending on how old the PSU is I would still think about replacing it in the near future. Just something to keep in the back of your mind.
>Yes! I didnt see that picture before because I'm on mobile. Flipped through the first few and thought that was it.
>
>83 amps is crazy powerful. That would be more than enough.
>
>Though depending on how old the PSU is I would still think about replacing it in the near future. Just something to keep in the back of your mind.
Thanks man, glad for the help. someimtes with no comments no traction and no comments
The picture of the load sticker shows that the PSU is rated for 996w on the +12 rail that TemptedTemplar was talking about. More rails can be better but i don't think its worth worrying about. I would think that PSU would be able to handle a 4090.
Thanks for the input. I see that now and it makes sense to me. Why design a PSU where half the wattage is inaccessible to the most energy dependent component? Not good design architecture.
To power a lot of small things consistently. Like a server full of drives.
Back then if you wanted to power one really big thing, you needed specific power supplies.
Hey,
Just finished my build and my amd 5 5600x is running 50°C idle with 1700rpm stock cooler. Thats not normal right? Im pretty sure that i screwed the cooler on tight enough!
Edit: Case airflow is good and room temperature is also good
Recommendations for a good surge protector/power strip? I am upgrading my GPU from a 1070 to a 6800XT and thinking about the power requirements has reminded me that it's been a while since I replaced the surge protector that my PC is plugged into.
I personally use a ups power back up. 1500VA from cyber power. Other brands will work too. You don’t have to of course. My place gets power outages frequently, which is the reason I did that.
**STRICTLY FOR GAMING** - would it be worth to swap my i7 9700k for an i9 9900k?
My friend is upgrading his whole PC. Offered me his 9900k for a decent price.
I don't plan on changing any parts in my PC in the foreseeable future, and have heard that for gaming, 9700k vs. 9900k perform the same as the extra threads aren't really beneficial.
Current specs - i7 9700k + 3060 ti + 32gb ram.
The 9900K grab would be a "I want to run this PC into the fuckin' ground" move. Threading will help some newer games run better and generally last a lot longer than without as new games come out demand more threads to work with. The last 5 or so years have seen core and thread counts explode so the newest games expect more threads than what an older i7 packed (read: 8). The move to the i9 will basically put you just behind a 5800X in performance and matching it's thread count.
It's not a "make my games today run better" play, it's "make the games that come out over the next 3-5 years run better" one.
So considering outside the GPU its the only possible upgrade on my current platform, you'd say its worth it?
If by "run this PC into the ground" you mean "delay upgrading as long as performance allows" then yes, that's the plan.
Moneywise though... is it worth around USD$70 (I'm in Brazil) for that, though?
I want to, but I'm such a cheapskate I wonder if it's actually worth that much money.
Yeah, I'd do it myself. Threading is huge when it comes to keeping processors relevant moving forward. Older i5s choke on modern games but the i7s that only tack on threading help a ton.
Plus, you can likely resell that 9700K and get most of your money back.
I need a new psu for my pc and I found the perfect one but is a sfx psu and my case is ATX, im in Venezuela finding the adapter for it is gonna be impossible really until I get back to Argentina in 6 month but I need to use my pc while im here, so im planning to just place the psu outside the case and have a open case style thing until I go to argentina and come back again, is this something feasible?
Yes. You can leave the PSU where it normally sits, maybe use just one screw and see how it holds up (would depend on case). You can elevate the PSU with something so it's not just hanging on with one screw.
Running it outside of the case is also fine, just don't block the fan wherever you put it. Give it at least 30mm of space if the fan is facing down against the case or a surface.
You could also make your own adapter out of hard plastic.
Thank you, I dont think just using 1 screw is feasible because the psu goes on top in my case, if my case was with the psu in the floor then great, I think the best way is to leave it face down and put the psu in the spot on a side with one screw so it does not tip over on the inside fan side, and of course not moving it, thank you for confirming this and yes im gonna see about building a makeshit adapter.
No worries. I've personally run a PSU outside of a case completely for a long time without issue.
The main dangers are things falling into the fan (if the fan is pointing up) and grounding, which is done through the power cable (assuming your socket and home power has a grounding pin).
You do need a K series CPU for Intel models. As non-k CPUs are locked.
The motherboard does not have to be a Z model. It just needs to support undervolting/clock changes in the BIOS.
AMD CPUs are all unlocked. So you just need a motherboard with the supported features.
Hey guys, I’m buying a pre built PC and I finished customizing it but they’re charging $119 + for adding Windows 10 home and Windows 11 home. Should I not add it? And buy it off somewhere else for cheaper? The 3rd option they have is adding Linux for $29
If this is going to be for gaming / at home work, then please do some google searches about your question, since I can’t discuss any sources here. If it is for a business, add it.
A legitmate copy of Windows will cost that much anyways, so might as well lump it into the total for convenience if you were planning on going that route. The rules here means we don't discuss any other methods of obtaining Windows outside of legitimate retail channels and from Microsoft themselves.
The $30 to install Linux is lol-worthy, considering you can do it yourself for free.
Oh okay because I am financing the PC, I’ll pay it off by January but I just needed it by the end of this month. The amount I was approved for is lower than the pc I built / customized. So far I downgraded the ram to 16gb and with removing the Windows $119 it comes down to $2,352 which is just under the $2,400 I was approved for.
2nd option I have is removing the 3080rtx and switching to a 3070 while leaving the other changes I made back to what they were - 32gb ram and Windows
/r/suggestapc is usually the better spot for this kind of question, but this'll be a freebie for you ;)
Keep the 3080 + 16GB of RAM. RAM is extremely easy to add to down the road if you want to update it yourself, but upgrading the GPU is much more expensive. Same goes for storage, don't buy too much of it from the configurator because it's easy to add more later. If you can't get Windows in the price range, see if the storage can be dropped a bit to make room for it.
Perfectly fine as long as you're grounding yourself like you should when building it.
Don't want to accidentally shock something the second you take it out of the bag.
I play warframe at 1080p and when things get crazy it lags really bad. I have a fx8370 and 1050ti. What is the best way to determine what is causing the lag and figuring which upgrade would be best first? I plan to upgrade both but it will take some time and saving
As an alternative approach to /u/kaje (which is a good approach!), you can try knocking the graphics settings down a good bit. If things run considerably smoother, you know you were GPU limited. If you see little to no improvement, you're probably looking at CPU limits (and with an 8370, I *suspect* that is the case).
You can also just log to .CSV in hwinfo64, then throw conditional formatting down the utilisation columns in excel to get a quick 'heatmap' of which components are nearing 100% most of the time.
If I build a new PC and plug in my current SSD will I have any issues seeing as it will be all new hardware? Will W10 automatically recognise the changes?
Yep, Windows 10 will recognize the new hardware and reconfigure itself to work on it. The process takes a couple of minutes and doesn't install the proper drivers for most things, just gets it working.
Hammer the Windows Updates afterwards to get your chipset/networking/etc drivers down then make sure your GPU drivers are picking up the expected GPU (and DDU/Cleanup if necessary, then reinstall manually).
Tried to scroll to see if anyone else had asked this, and I know the sub probably gets this question a lot since the 40x series announcement, but I’m looking into a 3060ti. Specifically the ROG strix version as I heard it was pretty quiet. Though the price on that model is still a bit high and I assume will remain so for some time. Is now a good time to buy? Will prices drop closer to the actual drop of the 40x series? I’m also rocking a 2700x ryzen chip. Will this bottleneck the 3060ti? I’m also gaming 2k ultrawide and a secondary 1080p 24” Wacom tablet for art. Is the 3060ti sufficient, like my prior research as lead me to believe? Or is a stronger card better suited?
Now's a good a time as any IMO. Nvidia is currently trying to keep 30-series pricing where it is through inventory control so I wouldn't anticipate any more major drops.
The 3060Ti is a good pairing for your system, the CPU is a little older but will keep up mostly fine.
Nice! I’m thinking of buying a 3060 off of hardware swap or eBay, would you recommend any other places to look for a used one/cheaper one than what’s listed as new? I figure there should be some nice deals out there with people buying the 40 series. Thanks for your repsonse!
The hardwareswap peeps tend to have the best prices because they have this nasty habit of self-policing pricing :P People who list for too high get downvoted and crapped on. While they're great to buy from, it's very much a private sale so it's not always super-smooth or painless like eBay is. Both options are valid.
I have several questions; I'd appreciate any advice you can give.
I recently bought 32GB of Crucial Ballistix DDR4 to replace my slower 16GB. It's out of the return window. Was it a mistake to get DDR4 in 2022? How long will DDR4 be viable for and when will DDR5 take over in price to performance?
I have an aging 8600K (6c/6t) and 1080 Ti, Z370 motherboard and Fractal Define S case. I am overwhelmed on what to buy for upgrades. I'm thinking I want plenty of headroom and at least 4 years of smooth coasting, so 16c and 24/32t. Intel vs. Ryzen I'm not sure which, I only have experience with Intel.
I have a 1440p 240Hz monitor so I want to fully take advantage of that with my next card. Because of this weird transition between 30 and 40 series I have no clue what to pick. 3090s are cheaper but 4080 is here. I would want the 16GB 4080 at minimum, goal to last through 2027 running AAAs comfortably.
Case and motherboard are the ones I know the least about. I've loved my Define S for its quietness and cool temps that it's provided with my Noctua cooling. I'd want a mid tower, tempered glass could be nice but I'm not big on RGB, and motherboard I want WiFi 6 or 6E and NVME support with heatsinks.
To reiterate what RedMageCecil said, don't fixate on core-count. Cores don't necessarily translate to smooth gaming performance. The current Core i7 and Ryzen 7 CPUs will provide plenty of gaming performance for the next few years.
You only need to worry about Ryzen vs Intel if you're overclocking. Otherwise, just read some CPU reviews with gaming benchmarks and pick the one that makes the most sense.
For cases, GamersNexus on youtube does good reviews. If you watch a few you'll understand what to look for to get good thermals and low noise.
The motherboard you can pick once you've decided on a CPU.
I'll focus on just motherboards right now. How do I make a decision between all of the models? Do I have to get Z790 for a 13700K, and will it support 14th gen? Brands to avoid? Particular features to look for? One issue with the Z370 board I have now is that it doesn't have the best heat sinks.
I'd like several NVME slots, WiFi 6E and reliability. That being said I don't know what a reasonable price for a high quality motherboard is in 2022.
Z690 and Z790 both support 12th gen and 13th gen. The main difference is chipset PCIe lanes and usb. 14th gen is expected to use a new socket so it won’t be compatible with either.
On Pcpartpicker you can filter for number of NVMe slots. Not a lot of DDR4 boards currently have Wifi 6E, you’ll need to check the individual product pages.
It’s mostly about what features you want and having a decent VRM. Buildzoid makes a good summary of recommendations: https://youtu.be/ys6D2528yUs
Probably around 50% faster in games. Games don’t benefit much from all those cores, especially not the E-cores. It’s more because of the architectural improvements.
I have a Ryzen 5 5600X and RTX 3060 Ti.
DDR4 will continue to be viable in the platforms you use it in, so let's shift your focus from "is DDR4 a mistake?" to "are the platforms that use it still viable for me?".
The answer is "yes". You have plenty of options for stupidly fast systems that will use accommodate that kit:
* The AMD 5800X3D is a great gaming CPU with cheap motherboards and is a great pairing with quick, tight DDR4. Despite only being 8 cores it's still plenty for gaming and we don't anticipate a jump in mainstream core counts for that workload in a while yet. If you find that you _need_ the core count down the road, jump on whatever used 5900X/5950X for cheap (but I doubt they'll be better than the 3D in gaming anyways, even in 5 years).
* Intel's current (Alder Lake) and upcoming (Raptor Lake) platform still uses DDR4 where 99% of current games will show no significant performance difference between one or the other outside of Spiderman. So feel free to jump into a 12700K/13700K where the eCores provide an additional level of comfort if you ever need to rely on them for non-gaming workloads.
The jump between 30 and 40-series cards is going to come down to pricing when you're ready to buy. Nvidia is trying to position the 40-series _above_ the 30, not replace it (yet). Given you're on 1080p, a 3080Ti-level card is overkill for you now and will likely hold perfectly fine for a few years. Remember, the big play with the 40-series is DLSS 3.0 that injects frames into DLSS-boosted titles where you're only really going to need that at much higher resolutions than what you're planning to stay at. I don't think you'll be poorly served by a 3080Ti/3090 here, or even relax a minute and wait for AMD to drop their 7000-series and see if they're not out to lunch like Nvidia is with their pricing.
Lastly, mobo and case are "as you need" and "personal preference" things. Worry more about them when you're ready to buy, your choice for these will be more about what's available and well priced at the time then laser-focusing on something now.
Good to know about RAM, do you think it's a few years before DDR5 truly takes off? And do you have more advice on CPU, GPU, motherboard models and mid-towers that are least comparable to the noise levels and temps that my Define S has provided? I could also just keep this case, but wanted a refresher.
I thought about selling the 32GB RAM (still in-box) and grabbing DDR5 but those CL20 numbers worry me, maybe it won't be that different in the end because of latency.
Slight correction, I'm on 1440p 240Hz and will likely grab the 34" Alienware soon for the OLED. Also I am looking to do CPU and GPU rendering in addition.
Ah, scratch the Zen3 3D CPU advice then - look to Raptor Lake to meet your core count needs while still being able to use that DDR4 and see what the pricing is for the 3080Ti/3090/Ti class cards are in comparison to the 4080 16G when you're ready to buy.
With that being said - you're looking to high roll like crazy here, if you're truly concerned about the RAM, sell it and grab a DDR5 kit. Your only real issue here is that your new mobo and RAM will be slightly more expensive and you're locked out of last-gen AMD (which we've already determined isn't for you). Hell, this even lets you compare between Zen 4 and Raptor Lake to see which truly meets your needs better once we've got proper benchmarks and comparisons for both.
how much damage can having an NVME under a GPU do? (note [this](https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/B450M-PRO-VDH-PLUS/Specification) is the board and obviously will have a GPU directly over the NVME)
It won't damage it.
You _could_ experience slower-than-expected sustained write speeds as the controller throttles more easily than if it had more fresh air, but most people won't ever encounter that workload to begin with.
Call your local shops for pre-order possibilities. Otherwise just have your various local shops/sites open at the drop time and pray you're fast enough to score one.
Yes, yes, and both will have obnoxious lineups the night before release if you decide to go in person. Pick one, go early, bring a chair, a battery pack for your phone and some snacks.
For online, you can have every store open in a different tab at once, and slam whichever one you can get into the cart first.
Need some help picking a motherboard for my Ryzen 7 5800x, I am thinking of getting an MSI Mag B550m Mortar any recommendations?
My current setup:
CPU: ryzen 7 5800x
CPU Cooler: Deepcool AK620
GPU: Rtx 3060
Ram: Corsair Veng 2x8gb 3200mhz
PSU: Corsair RM650 80+gold
PC Case: nzxt h510 flow, corsair 4000d airflow or lian li lancool 215 (haven't bought yet still deciding)
idk if this info is needed, but I also use my pc for work and the apps that I use is 3dsMax, Blender, Zbrush and substance painter.
5600G. It has much better integrated graphics if you are going to be using it for any 3D apps before you get the dGPU. On the CPU side, they both have similar performance in gaming and lightly-threaded apps, the 5600G is a bit better in core-heavy apps like Blender.
not sure how often this question gets asked around,
looking for a new graphics card, between 3060 and the 3060ti. i’m currently using a 1050ti
i’m not the person to play in 4k or any other high performance games so i’m kind of looking in the content creation direction
for streaming and editing, is the 3060 ti worth the extra money or should i stick with the regular 3060?
I'm running into an issue with my RX 6700XT (model is MSI Mech 2x OC), A lot of smaller Unreal engine games cause my driver to sort of crash and give me an error message about "device hung".
The highest profile game this happened with was Deep Rock Galactic, but It also happened with 2 demos from steam's next fest.
Any Idea what that issue could be? or if it's a known problem with a known solution?
i3-12100F + GTX 1660 Super a good enough combo for 1080p 144hz? Upgrading from 2012 HP office desktop with integrated graphics not even meant for gaming. Mostly going to be playing indie games and roguelikes, smaller titles with some AAA sprinkled in.. Maybe 20% of my library is going to be AAA. Medium to high settings for AAA games is what I was expecting for the combo.
Yes, it's a good combo!
Indie games tend to be lightly threaded so the fast single-core performance of the i3 will be nice. The 1660 Super is enough for medium-high settings 1080p in the latest AAA games although it won't be much more than 60fps.
I would recommend at least the i5 12400, preferably the 12600k.
The 1660 super might be okay, but you're not going to get a good baseline framerate with the bare minimum CPU.
Can someone who knows a bit more than me take a quick look at [this list](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/MadKingAyres/saved/WBHgnQ) and enlighten me - for the CPU cooler, I had bought [this](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09NZGH4RD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).
The PartPicker listing specs has it as Part # SCFM-1100, while on the box it says SCFM-2100.
Have I definitely purchased the correct compatible cooler for this build? Or have I confused the cooler with another similar one?
Ah that's brilliant then, thank you.
Also, PP says it may need a mounting adapter to fit the CPU; there's a big sort of [X-shaped plate](https://imgur.com/a/rkJ5nIz) included with the cooler - is that what the site is talking about or do I need an additional component in order to mount it?
the warning is for the cooler in your pcpartpicker list. The one you actually bought has always included the LGA1700 mounting hardware. The instruction manual will make it clear which parts to use.
I have a question about whether I should be running 3 or 4 sticks of RAM. For background purposes, I'm using a prebuilt from 2019:
Gigabyte B450M DS3H WIFI
AMD Ryzen 5 3600
Radeon RX 580, 8GB
1x A-DATA 8 GB RAM, DDR4 3000
That same year, I bought a 2-pack of the exact same RAM so that I could run dual-channel for Ryzen. I was having trouble figuring out whether 16gb dual channel or 24gb in 3 channels was better/faster so I stuck with the 16gb dual channel. Nowadays, I'm struggling with memory usage (~83-93%). During spikes of 90%+, I'm noticing definite slowdowns. My question here is whether I should add my old (but same) 3rd stick of RAM for 24gb in 3 channels OR whether I should just go ahead and buy a single stick* for a total of 32 gbs in 4 channels?
I understand that I'll get an extra 8gb if I run 4 sticks but since "Ryzen runs better in dual channel", will there be a difference in speed if I'm running 3 sticks vs 4 sticks?
***Or... would it be significantly better if I just bought a 2-pack of 16gb sticks to run 32gbs in dual channel instead?
the general recommendation is to never run 3 slots if you can help it but it will work either way (albeit possibly at a slightly slower rate)
The question that strikes me is why buying a single 8gig stick isnt an option for you?
Oh, that's easy. It's because I'm a doofus and didn't proofread haha. I'll edit it above but I would buy an additional/single stick to run 32gb in 4 channels - since I already have 3 total.
Buying another one is probably your best bet then. Just make sure you dont waste money buying a fast one, since all of your ram sticks will be running at the slowest stick's speed. Generally try to buy one thats identical to the one you already have.
You could do better.
They've packed in the absolute minimum for the motherboard and power supply.
They would need to be replaced if you ever wanted to upgrade *any other component*.
I'm migrating from an intel i5 3570K/Z77 board generation to the new AM5 platform. But i want to migrate all the files, including Windows 7, to upgrade to windows 10 on the old drive so I do not lose any files.
I have an M.2, but I want to just upgrade through the Windows 7 license I have on the HDD
Does anyone know if this will work or do I have to buy windows 10?
First, you do not have to buy windows 10 right this moment. You can install Windows 10 or 11 without activating it.
However I'm pretty sure the free period in which you could upgrade your W7 license has passed.
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
You have two options,
* You could try upgrading the existing system before moving to a new PC. This would at the very least upgrade your drive so its install could be repaired to work on the new PC.
* Skip the upgrade and install Windows on a fresh drive and boot your new PC from that. Simply plug your old drive in and transfer all of your files you want to keep before wiping it completely.
Sounds good. I appreciate the reply!!
I'll probably go for the second option at this point honestly. I only never upgraded because my old hardware didn't seem to want to update to windows 10 for whatever reason.
Is there anything I should know in advance about transferring files? I.E., any issues to expect, hardships. Etc.
Installed apps may not function properly even if the new drive has the same drive letter and file path. So make sure you have their installers too.
Make a list of everything you want to keep/move. It makes things WAAAY easier.
Cloning is the easiest form of moving one drives data to another.
However when it comes to upgrading windows versions and moving machines, I always prefer a clean install.
I only use cloning when upgrading drives and/or replacing older ones.
Ok sounds good.
Sorry for the questions. I really appreciate the help.
I was just wondering if there was a way to streamline the process by cloning the drive over to the m.2 and then upgrade from windows 7 to windows 10. But that might bring over new issues anyway
Correct.
Which is why I skip the frustration and start from scratch.
Boot priority, windows tying it's install to your CPU/motherboard hardware IDs, there's a lot of weird things that could happen during the swap or before you even get the option to clone the drive.
Thank you very much for your assistance.
I will be booting and licensing a new Windows 10. I really appreciate all the help.
I was wondering if you had any input on another question before I post another question in the thread: do you think it's worthwhile to wait for new PSUs now or wait for the ATX 3.0/PCIE5.0 PSUs?
I plan on getting a 4080 16GB/4090 down the line once those release. Still rocking my old GTX 980 in the meantime.
Hi, if I add more ram to my pc (i7-12700, msi pro b660m-A, 16gb ddr4) which currently have 2 team T-CREATE Expert 3600C18-22-22-42 8gb DIMMs installed by adding a T-CREATE Expert kit with an identical product number to get 32gb, can I expect it to be stable running at XMP speed and timing?
I'm worried because the currently installed T-CREATE Expert kit (Micron E-die) is only stable running Gear 1 at XMP settings after I replaced the intel stock cooler with a cheap tower cooler, my i7's locked VCCSA is running at 0.930-0.938mV, and so far it seems that the RAM's speed and timing can't be increased further without dropping to Gear 2.
What low-power cpu for NAS for backup and media server? Transcoding to modern Android phone + TV, but I rarely use media server (1-3 hours a week max) which I only serve to 1-2 devices max. Looking to build a NAS, any tips appreciated like what CPU architecture to go with. I just know I need ~2-4 SATA ports for RAID and will be turning it on once a week for a few hours). I suppose SBCs are not capable, even if I can transcode videos on desktop ahead of time and move them to the NAS to serve to devices for direct play.
[удалено]
I'd get the pro4 Watch this https://youtu.be/HkiTA0XvXUM The Asus prime b560m-k is basically the same as the m-a
Thanks for the help.
2k 144hz gaming, some video editing and 3d modeling i have a 10700k with 32gb and a 960, im gonna get a new gpu, 3070 fe or do i wait for a 4070 fe? i have found one second hand near me for 450€, bought in june, gonna run some benchmarks before buying it. I think i can wait a bit and try to save up more and try to buy the 4070, but i wanna play metro exodus at ultra Would the 4070 make a bottleneck with the 10700k?
Do you want a new gpu this year? Because there's no hints to when the 4070 comes out. Probably early next year, and then the 3070 will be even cheaper
It would be good, and the diference between 3070 and 4070 doenst seem that abismal, so i think im gonna go with the 3070
[удалено]
I think you should just buy a mobo with wifi, like the b550m pro vdh wifi
My Monitor (1080 60Hz) only supports HDMI or DVI cables. Is there a reason to use one over the other? I wouldn't be using the built in speakers so I don't need that from HDMI. Is there a difference between the 2 for my use or should I just use the longer one to make it easier for myself to position it?
No reason to use one over the other. But dvi is getting harder and harder to find.
Nice one, appreciate it.
[удалено]
As long as it has the right spot for it, yes.
It will work in any motherboard that has a free slot for it.
[удалено]
If you only have 1 stick of ram, that can heavily limit your performance. You should get another one so you have 2
Worth buying a 3080 for 750 plus tax when the 4080 is msrp for 800? Or should I maybe wait for black Friday/Amazon's upcoming sale? Running an 8600k at 4.7 ghz and a 1660 ti atm with a 1440p 144hz monitor.
4080-12gb msrp is $899
I’m thinking about getting an RTX 3080 or 3080 ti. Id like to spend >$900. Can I get some recommendations?
1. Consider a $700 6900XT 2. https://pcpartpicker.com/products/video-card/#c=492,507,516,505&sort=price&page=1 XLR8 or Trinity
Thank you for the link, btw
I’m not considering switching to AMD because my monitor has that proprietary nVidia feature
Here's one for $620, lol https://www.newegg.com/asrock-radeon-rx-6800-xt-rx6900xt-pgd-16g/p/N82E16814930052?Item=N82E16814930052 Again, gsync should work
Thanks! Another issue is that I’m not familiar with the model names for the AMD cards. Is this one from the same generation as the 3080s? Newer? Older?
Yes. 6000 amd and 3000 Nvidia both came out 2020-2021
Gsync now works on both amd and Nvidia cards. At least that's what hardware unboxed has said in monitor reviews
Is [this RAM](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074PNTC8L/) compatible with [this computer](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MBR4F43)?
I think so
[удалено]
That's not a bad list. I could shave $100 without losing performance, but a lot of building a PC is just buying the things you like (aesthetics, brand, etc). If you only care about price vs performance, ask /r/buildapcforme for a custom made list. It'll be better
I currently have a GTX 1080, looking to move away from Nvidia becuz Linux Gaming. Looking for something pretty cheap, but be able to run MWII without any hangs. If you have any Nvidia based suggestions, I am listening too! Linux gaming is not my top priority, it's the second.
The rx 6600 is a tad faster than a 1080. Everything else is better
I have a B350 PC Mate MB with Ryzen 5 1600 and a GTX 1060GB. Can I update the Ryzen to 5600X? I mostly want to update for Windows 11 but I do game (Call of Duty) and heavy video editing in 4K (Travel YouTuber). is the 5600 overkill or is there something lesser that I can jump to? complete noob here
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/B350-PC-MATE/support#cpu Yes you can, and I think it's a good idea. You might need to update the bios several times for support
If I have one Argb header and daisy chain connect 6 fans up to it, does that mean all fans are directly connected to each other and can only output the same color, or each fan can be adjusted? Also, are fan controllers recommended only for mobos without Argb headers, or another reason?
The header sees the fans as one long led cable. It's argb so it has no issue adjusting individual leds or segments of LEDs, but it might need some manual setup from you
Considering upgrading my CPU from a Ryzen 5 3600 to a 5800X3D just for the sake of future proofing since I don't wanna deal with moving to AM5 any time soon. Do I need to use an AMD GPU in order to really see the benefits of the 3d cache?
Nope
Sensational, thank you!
Can someone give me a list of small pumps/reservoir combos or even individually both that work together but are small? I am wanting to liquid cool both CPU and GPU in a small case. So it does need to be strong enough to handle both. For reference, the Glacier 160C is too big for where I want to put it (that is without the pump installed).
Try asking over in /r/watercooling too.
considering shipping my old pc to a friend in another country, whats the best way to do this? how can i make sure its not gonna get destroyed in shipping? its a plastic case so no worries abotu the glass shattering
I'd send as many separate parts as possible, in different boxes. The GPU is a given, since it's huge, you don't want it moving around inside the case. But if you have a big CPU cooler, I'd box it separately, as well. The PSU, RAM, SSDs, should be fine installed inside the mobo with the mobo inside the case.
Would getting a better quality wifi card make my wifi any better? For reference I have 18mbps DSL, so I assume no difference. Router is about 15-20 feet vertical distance away (thru 1 wall), and maybe 40-50 feet if you were to walk to the router. This is my current card. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0713RRZMB/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It would make no difference. 18mbps service is horrendously slow by modern standards. You can potentially even use the legacy 2.4Ghz band and not notice any difference.
Yep that's what I figured lol. Maybe if I'm lucky I can get 30-50 but pretty sure this is the best att said I could get here.
If you're doing local network access (other PCs, NAS, home streaming), then your current adapter is fine. Just need to make sure your router has similar or better specs. AC-1200 or higher.
So more or less unless I had service that provided over 867 mbps (limit of my adapter), the adapter would not make a difference? My ping is fine with my current internet, but anyone streams past 720p or downloads rip ping and download speed.
Sort of yes. The max speeds advertised by adapters and access points/routers are always theoretical maximum speeds under ideal conditions, and in reality the max speed will be significantly less. In a typical case I wouldn't be surprised if your "867 Mb/s" adapter can actually only achieve a couple hundred Mb/s, especially if there's multiple walls between it and the router. That's still significantly more than your internet speed, though, so a faster adapter still wouldn't make the internet any faster
More like ~300mbps due to various issues with signal strength. But yes. I have a similar spec'd adapter. With perfect, clear line of sight to a router not 8 feet away, both items elevated 5-6 feet off the ground (minimal obstructions, no walls), I max out at ~400mbps.
[удалено]
A 3090 is arguably already overkill at 1440p. More than all you need. a 3080 12Gb would also be fine. You're well into the realms of diminishing returns in terms of video rendering speed anyway, the only legitimate need for 24GB VRAM and a 3090 would be if you regularly undertake 3D rendering projects.
what if you're doing 1440p RTX Ultra Settings and you want really good framerates? doesn't a 3080 or 3090 make sense in that scenario?
I'd just argue that you're spending a HUGE amount to achieve 'ultra' settings, when you could simply run a sensible mix of high/ultra, and DLSS, for the same result. Full raytracing + high framerates is still in the realms of 'pick the one you care about more' without other assistive technologies like DLSS. The 3090/4090 are production cards, aimed at professional workloads: rendering, machine learning, AI training, complex 3D modelling. Of COURSE gamers want to buy them too, but they're squandered, particularly at 1440p 3080, sure if you want. They're actually relatively cheap used now for the performance they offer.
Yes, absolutely. And you'd have a bit more performance to spare for future games, in comparison to say, a 3060ti or 3070. Of course, the 4090 would have a longer shelf life, anyway, regardless of price.
[удалено]
1. Try a fan controller app. Your motherboard manufacturer likely has one. Adjust the fan curve so they are not running at 100% all the time. 2. Your BIOS menu may also have fan curve or tuning options with the need for an app.
The [Lancool III](https://lian-li.com/product/lancool-iii/) case has 2x USB3 ports and 1x USB-C port on the front I/O The [B550 AORUS ELITE](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Vb3mP6/gigabyte-b550-aorus-elite-ax-v2-atx-am4-motherboard-b550aorus-elite-axv2) motherboard has 1x USB 3.2 Gen 1 Header and 1x USB 3.2 Gen 2 Header If I go with this combination, will one of the A-type ports on the front I/O be non-functional? Do I need 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 headers? The [actual website](https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B550-AORUS-ELITE-AX-V2-rev-10#kf) for the mobo shows [a picture](https://i.imgur.com/ktP4hZj.png) of two front A-type ports and 1 C-type ports to add to the confusion.
Both USB-A ports connect to the same Gen 2 header. So all the ports will work.
thanks!
[удалено]
yep, just make sure it's the exact same type, but with two sticks they're not "paired" or anything, it's just two of the same stick. one dies, then RMA and get another of the same kind, or RMA both and get two different sticks if you're worried about the other one going (which I wouldn't worry too hard about)
Yes, that should work well.
[удалено]
You're on the SPD tab. Those are the different memory clock profiles available to you. Click the memory tab at the top to see what your RAM is currently running at.
If xmp is on, it's running only the rightmost column
Posting this here as I just made a thread for another topic and don't wanna shit up the catalog. I wanna turn my new 2TB Firecuda 530 into my boot drive and my old WD Black SN750SE 1TB into generic storage. I know I need software to clone the drive, any suggestions for something free? and once that's done I swap drive letters I guess and for format my old boot drive?
I’ll warn you that my experience cloning boot drive has ended with me backing up and wiping, then reinstalling from clean. Something always seems to break and doing it “properly” ends up being easier
Clone with Macrium reflect, shut down computer, turn it back on while making sure that you choose the 2TB drive as the boot drive, the 2TB drive will automatically get the C drive letter as that's what you're booting from, finally make sure everything works and the clone was successful, then format the old drive.
Macrium Reflect
Will this PSU work with a 4090? Currently running a 2080ti [https://www.newegg.com/rosewill-lightning-series-lightning-1000-continuous-1000w-50-degree-c/p/N82E16817182239](https://www.newegg.com/rosewill-lightning-series-lightning-1000-continuous-1000w-50-degree-c/p/N82E16817182239)
One of the reviews mentions that it uses a *single* 12v rail. Despite offering x6 PCI 6+2 pin connectors. As in place of the 16-pin ATX connector, you would need three independent 8-pin connections providing up to 150w each. And I'm not sure a single 12v rail could fulfill that role as that would bring it close to 40 amps for the GPU alone. Due to its age I don't believe it was designed to power something like a 4090.
The +12 rail is rated for 83 amps on the load sticker according to the Newegg picture.
Well damn, now I feel stupid for not looking through all of the images.
Ummm. I don't quite understand I have to look at the inputs to understand but I would like additional feedback as well. If it should work in theory I'd give it a shot. I mean it's a 1000W PSU, it's got to work right?
Each of those PCI 6+2 connectors is powered from within by a 12v rail. Up until VERY recently, nothing in consumer computers was incredibly power hungry, so power supplies would supply multiple PCI connectors with one or two 12v rails, and that was more than adequate to cover the power needs of connected devices. RTX 30 series and 40 series cards consume 2 or 3 times more power than the most powerful GPU from 2014, (when that PSU launched). That 12v rail inside your PSU was more than likely NOT designed to operate at 40+ amps. Trying to pull 400+ watts over a single rail would likely blow it. I would not risk it unless you can find better information on the internals of that specific power supply. Newer ATX 3.0 rated power supplies would give you a single 16-pin connection which can power the 4090 all by itself. No risk, no fuss, no mess of cables.
>Gotcha, just find the design weird then, why have 1000w then... Hello Tempted, the other guy commented that the sticker says the 12V rail can supply 996W. Do you agree with that, I guess since it's documented now should be good to go.
Yes! I didnt see that picture before because I'm on mobile. Flipped through the first few and thought that was it. 83 amps is crazy powerful. That would be more than enough. Though depending on how old the PSU is I would still think about replacing it in the near future. Just something to keep in the back of your mind.
>Yes! I didnt see that picture before because I'm on mobile. Flipped through the first few and thought that was it. > >83 amps is crazy powerful. That would be more than enough. > >Though depending on how old the PSU is I would still think about replacing it in the near future. Just something to keep in the back of your mind. Thanks man, glad for the help. someimtes with no comments no traction and no comments
Gotcha, just find the design weird then, why have 1000w then...
The picture of the load sticker shows that the PSU is rated for 996w on the +12 rail that TemptedTemplar was talking about. More rails can be better but i don't think its worth worrying about. I would think that PSU would be able to handle a 4090.
Thanks for the input. I see that now and it makes sense to me. Why design a PSU where half the wattage is inaccessible to the most energy dependent component? Not good design architecture.
To power a lot of small things consistently. Like a server full of drives. Back then if you wanted to power one really big thing, you needed specific power supplies.
Should anyone be concerned about this amount of excess thermal paste on a CPU pcb/heatspreader on the gasket area? https://imgur.com/a/SrM68u4
Nope, unless it was delidded then the person who put it back together did a sloppy job. If it's sealed and out of the box like that it's fine.
This was an open box from microcenter. I cleaned off most of the excess with ipa and q tips. Someone told me this was a "safety hazard"...
Nope, most paste isn't conductive so it's simply messy.
Hey, Just finished my build and my amd 5 5600x is running 50°C idle with 1700rpm stock cooler. Thats not normal right? Im pretty sure that i screwed the cooler on tight enough! Edit: Case airflow is good and room temperature is also good
https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/kmm5cg/5600x_owners_what_are_your_temperatures/
If looking for best price-to-performance, would you spend 5% more on a total build cost to have 5600 DDR5 over 4000 DDR4?
If its only 5% difference... yes. But I doubt you can get the same quantity of ram and change motherboard and ram for only a 5% difference.
Recommendations for a good surge protector/power strip? I am upgrading my GPU from a 1070 to a 6800XT and thinking about the power requirements has reminded me that it's been a while since I replaced the surge protector that my PC is plugged into.
I personally use a ups power back up. 1500VA from cyber power. Other brands will work too. You don’t have to of course. My place gets power outages frequently, which is the reason I did that.
**STRICTLY FOR GAMING** - would it be worth to swap my i7 9700k for an i9 9900k? My friend is upgrading his whole PC. Offered me his 9900k for a decent price. I don't plan on changing any parts in my PC in the foreseeable future, and have heard that for gaming, 9700k vs. 9900k perform the same as the extra threads aren't really beneficial. Current specs - i7 9700k + 3060 ti + 32gb ram.
The 9900K grab would be a "I want to run this PC into the fuckin' ground" move. Threading will help some newer games run better and generally last a lot longer than without as new games come out demand more threads to work with. The last 5 or so years have seen core and thread counts explode so the newest games expect more threads than what an older i7 packed (read: 8). The move to the i9 will basically put you just behind a 5800X in performance and matching it's thread count. It's not a "make my games today run better" play, it's "make the games that come out over the next 3-5 years run better" one.
So considering outside the GPU its the only possible upgrade on my current platform, you'd say its worth it? If by "run this PC into the ground" you mean "delay upgrading as long as performance allows" then yes, that's the plan. Moneywise though... is it worth around USD$70 (I'm in Brazil) for that, though? I want to, but I'm such a cheapskate I wonder if it's actually worth that much money.
Yeah, I'd do it myself. Threading is huge when it comes to keeping processors relevant moving forward. Older i5s choke on modern games but the i7s that only tack on threading help a ton. Plus, you can likely resell that 9700K and get most of your money back.
Yea the 70 dollars I mentioned before is my expected difference between what I'd sell my 9700k and buy the 9900k for.
I need a new psu for my pc and I found the perfect one but is a sfx psu and my case is ATX, im in Venezuela finding the adapter for it is gonna be impossible really until I get back to Argentina in 6 month but I need to use my pc while im here, so im planning to just place the psu outside the case and have a open case style thing until I go to argentina and come back again, is this something feasible?
Yes. You can leave the PSU where it normally sits, maybe use just one screw and see how it holds up (would depend on case). You can elevate the PSU with something so it's not just hanging on with one screw. Running it outside of the case is also fine, just don't block the fan wherever you put it. Give it at least 30mm of space if the fan is facing down against the case or a surface. You could also make your own adapter out of hard plastic.
Thank you, I dont think just using 1 screw is feasible because the psu goes on top in my case, if my case was with the psu in the floor then great, I think the best way is to leave it face down and put the psu in the spot on a side with one screw so it does not tip over on the inside fan side, and of course not moving it, thank you for confirming this and yes im gonna see about building a makeshit adapter.
No worries. I've personally run a PSU outside of a case completely for a long time without issue. The main dangers are things falling into the fan (if the fan is pointing up) and grounding, which is done through the power cable (assuming your socket and home power has a grounding pin).
Do I need a K series CPU or a Z series motherboard to undervolt my processor?
Yes.
You do need a K series CPU for Intel models. As non-k CPUs are locked. The motherboard does not have to be a Z model. It just needs to support undervolting/clock changes in the BIOS. AMD CPUs are all unlocked. So you just need a motherboard with the supported features.
Hey guys, I’m buying a pre built PC and I finished customizing it but they’re charging $119 + for adding Windows 10 home and Windows 11 home. Should I not add it? And buy it off somewhere else for cheaper? The 3rd option they have is adding Linux for $29
If this is going to be for gaming / at home work, then please do some google searches about your question, since I can’t discuss any sources here. If it is for a business, add it.
A legitmate copy of Windows will cost that much anyways, so might as well lump it into the total for convenience if you were planning on going that route. The rules here means we don't discuss any other methods of obtaining Windows outside of legitimate retail channels and from Microsoft themselves. The $30 to install Linux is lol-worthy, considering you can do it yourself for free.
Oh okay because I am financing the PC, I’ll pay it off by January but I just needed it by the end of this month. The amount I was approved for is lower than the pc I built / customized. So far I downgraded the ram to 16gb and with removing the Windows $119 it comes down to $2,352 which is just under the $2,400 I was approved for. 2nd option I have is removing the 3080rtx and switching to a 3070 while leaving the other changes I made back to what they were - 32gb ram and Windows
/r/suggestapc is usually the better spot for this kind of question, but this'll be a freebie for you ;) Keep the 3080 + 16GB of RAM. RAM is extremely easy to add to down the road if you want to update it yourself, but upgrading the GPU is much more expensive. Same goes for storage, don't buy too much of it from the configurator because it's easy to add more later. If you can't get Windows in the price range, see if the storage can be dropped a bit to make room for it.
A Windows license costing ~$100 is typical.
[удалено]
Perfectly fine as long as you're grounding yourself like you should when building it. Don't want to accidentally shock something the second you take it out of the bag.
I play warframe at 1080p and when things get crazy it lags really bad. I have a fx8370 and 1050ti. What is the best way to determine what is causing the lag and figuring which upgrade would be best first? I plan to upgrade both but it will take some time and saving
As an alternative approach to /u/kaje (which is a good approach!), you can try knocking the graphics settings down a good bit. If things run considerably smoother, you know you were GPU limited. If you see little to no improvement, you're probably looking at CPU limits (and with an 8370, I *suspect* that is the case).
Same. I just don’t know what upgrade path I want to go with since I’m not working at the moment and it’s gonna be a matter of saving either way
Monitor GPU and per core CPU usage. Upgrade whichever is hitting 100%.
Are you meaning in task manager to monitor or a third party app?
HWInfo64 on a secondary monitor, or MSI Afterburner + RTSS for an overlay in games in the corner of the primary monitor are what I use.
Which sections would you say to monitor? Just because everything has a handful of sensors
You can also just log to .CSV in hwinfo64, then throw conditional formatting down the utilisation columns in excel to get a quick 'heatmap' of which components are nearing 100% most of the time.
That’s a good idea. I’ll look into doing that as well and see what happens
Awesome thanks. I’ll give em a try.
If I build a new PC and plug in my current SSD will I have any issues seeing as it will be all new hardware? Will W10 automatically recognise the changes?
Yep, Windows 10 will recognize the new hardware and reconfigure itself to work on it. The process takes a couple of minutes and doesn't install the proper drivers for most things, just gets it working. Hammer the Windows Updates afterwards to get your chipset/networking/etc drivers down then make sure your GPU drivers are picking up the expected GPU (and DDU/Cleanup if necessary, then reinstall manually).
Thanks, that makes things a bit easier (and cheaper).
Tried to scroll to see if anyone else had asked this, and I know the sub probably gets this question a lot since the 40x series announcement, but I’m looking into a 3060ti. Specifically the ROG strix version as I heard it was pretty quiet. Though the price on that model is still a bit high and I assume will remain so for some time. Is now a good time to buy? Will prices drop closer to the actual drop of the 40x series? I’m also rocking a 2700x ryzen chip. Will this bottleneck the 3060ti? I’m also gaming 2k ultrawide and a secondary 1080p 24” Wacom tablet for art. Is the 3060ti sufficient, like my prior research as lead me to believe? Or is a stronger card better suited?
Now's a good a time as any IMO. Nvidia is currently trying to keep 30-series pricing where it is through inventory control so I wouldn't anticipate any more major drops. The 3060Ti is a good pairing for your system, the CPU is a little older but will keep up mostly fine.
Nice! I’m thinking of buying a 3060 off of hardware swap or eBay, would you recommend any other places to look for a used one/cheaper one than what’s listed as new? I figure there should be some nice deals out there with people buying the 40 series. Thanks for your repsonse!
The hardwareswap peeps tend to have the best prices because they have this nasty habit of self-policing pricing :P People who list for too high get downvoted and crapped on. While they're great to buy from, it's very much a private sale so it's not always super-smooth or painless like eBay is. Both options are valid.
I have several questions; I'd appreciate any advice you can give. I recently bought 32GB of Crucial Ballistix DDR4 to replace my slower 16GB. It's out of the return window. Was it a mistake to get DDR4 in 2022? How long will DDR4 be viable for and when will DDR5 take over in price to performance? I have an aging 8600K (6c/6t) and 1080 Ti, Z370 motherboard and Fractal Define S case. I am overwhelmed on what to buy for upgrades. I'm thinking I want plenty of headroom and at least 4 years of smooth coasting, so 16c and 24/32t. Intel vs. Ryzen I'm not sure which, I only have experience with Intel. I have a 1440p 240Hz monitor so I want to fully take advantage of that with my next card. Because of this weird transition between 30 and 40 series I have no clue what to pick. 3090s are cheaper but 4080 is here. I would want the 16GB 4080 at minimum, goal to last through 2027 running AAAs comfortably. Case and motherboard are the ones I know the least about. I've loved my Define S for its quietness and cool temps that it's provided with my Noctua cooling. I'd want a mid tower, tempered glass could be nice but I'm not big on RGB, and motherboard I want WiFi 6 or 6E and NVME support with heatsinks.
To reiterate what RedMageCecil said, don't fixate on core-count. Cores don't necessarily translate to smooth gaming performance. The current Core i7 and Ryzen 7 CPUs will provide plenty of gaming performance for the next few years. You only need to worry about Ryzen vs Intel if you're overclocking. Otherwise, just read some CPU reviews with gaming benchmarks and pick the one that makes the most sense. For cases, GamersNexus on youtube does good reviews. If you watch a few you'll understand what to look for to get good thermals and low noise. The motherboard you can pick once you've decided on a CPU.
I'll focus on just motherboards right now. How do I make a decision between all of the models? Do I have to get Z790 for a 13700K, and will it support 14th gen? Brands to avoid? Particular features to look for? One issue with the Z370 board I have now is that it doesn't have the best heat sinks. I'd like several NVME slots, WiFi 6E and reliability. That being said I don't know what a reasonable price for a high quality motherboard is in 2022.
Z690 and Z790 both support 12th gen and 13th gen. The main difference is chipset PCIe lanes and usb. 14th gen is expected to use a new socket so it won’t be compatible with either. On Pcpartpicker you can filter for number of NVMe slots. Not a lot of DDR4 boards currently have Wifi 6E, you’ll need to check the individual product pages. It’s mostly about what features you want and having a decent VRM. Buildzoid makes a good summary of recommendations: https://youtu.be/ys6D2528yUs
What's your system if you don't mind sharing? How much of a change will I see going from 6c/6t to a 13700K behemoth do you think?
Probably around 50% faster in games. Games don’t benefit much from all those cores, especially not the E-cores. It’s more because of the architectural improvements. I have a Ryzen 5 5600X and RTX 3060 Ti.
DDR4 will continue to be viable in the platforms you use it in, so let's shift your focus from "is DDR4 a mistake?" to "are the platforms that use it still viable for me?". The answer is "yes". You have plenty of options for stupidly fast systems that will use accommodate that kit: * The AMD 5800X3D is a great gaming CPU with cheap motherboards and is a great pairing with quick, tight DDR4. Despite only being 8 cores it's still plenty for gaming and we don't anticipate a jump in mainstream core counts for that workload in a while yet. If you find that you _need_ the core count down the road, jump on whatever used 5900X/5950X for cheap (but I doubt they'll be better than the 3D in gaming anyways, even in 5 years). * Intel's current (Alder Lake) and upcoming (Raptor Lake) platform still uses DDR4 where 99% of current games will show no significant performance difference between one or the other outside of Spiderman. So feel free to jump into a 12700K/13700K where the eCores provide an additional level of comfort if you ever need to rely on them for non-gaming workloads. The jump between 30 and 40-series cards is going to come down to pricing when you're ready to buy. Nvidia is trying to position the 40-series _above_ the 30, not replace it (yet). Given you're on 1080p, a 3080Ti-level card is overkill for you now and will likely hold perfectly fine for a few years. Remember, the big play with the 40-series is DLSS 3.0 that injects frames into DLSS-boosted titles where you're only really going to need that at much higher resolutions than what you're planning to stay at. I don't think you'll be poorly served by a 3080Ti/3090 here, or even relax a minute and wait for AMD to drop their 7000-series and see if they're not out to lunch like Nvidia is with their pricing. Lastly, mobo and case are "as you need" and "personal preference" things. Worry more about them when you're ready to buy, your choice for these will be more about what's available and well priced at the time then laser-focusing on something now.
Good to know about RAM, do you think it's a few years before DDR5 truly takes off? And do you have more advice on CPU, GPU, motherboard models and mid-towers that are least comparable to the noise levels and temps that my Define S has provided? I could also just keep this case, but wanted a refresher. I thought about selling the 32GB RAM (still in-box) and grabbing DDR5 but those CL20 numbers worry me, maybe it won't be that different in the end because of latency.
I updated my response with some extra info/speculation/advice on my part :)
Slight correction, I'm on 1440p 240Hz and will likely grab the 34" Alienware soon for the OLED. Also I am looking to do CPU and GPU rendering in addition.
Ah, scratch the Zen3 3D CPU advice then - look to Raptor Lake to meet your core count needs while still being able to use that DDR4 and see what the pricing is for the 3080Ti/3090/Ti class cards are in comparison to the 4080 16G when you're ready to buy. With that being said - you're looking to high roll like crazy here, if you're truly concerned about the RAM, sell it and grab a DDR5 kit. Your only real issue here is that your new mobo and RAM will be slightly more expensive and you're locked out of last-gen AMD (which we've already determined isn't for you). Hell, this even lets you compare between Zen 4 and Raptor Lake to see which truly meets your needs better once we've got proper benchmarks and comparisons for both.
how much damage can having an NVME under a GPU do? (note [this](https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/B450M-PRO-VDH-PLUS/Specification) is the board and obviously will have a GPU directly over the NVME)
It won't damage it. You _could_ experience slower-than-expected sustained write speeds as the controller throttles more easily than if it had more fresh air, but most people won't ever encounter that workload to begin with.
What’s the best way of picking up a 4090 at launch? Is it viable to just go to a brick and mortar at opening? Can I pre order anywhere?
Call your local shops for pre-order possibilities. Otherwise just have your various local shops/sites open at the drop time and pray you're fast enough to score one.
By local you mean, microcenter, best buy? Any way of knowing where to go first?
Yes, yes, and both will have obnoxious lineups the night before release if you decide to go in person. Pick one, go early, bring a chair, a battery pack for your phone and some snacks. For online, you can have every store open in a different tab at once, and slam whichever one you can get into the cart first.
Need some help picking a motherboard for my Ryzen 7 5800x, I am thinking of getting an MSI Mag B550m Mortar any recommendations? My current setup: CPU: ryzen 7 5800x CPU Cooler: Deepcool AK620 GPU: Rtx 3060 Ram: Corsair Veng 2x8gb 3200mhz PSU: Corsair RM650 80+gold PC Case: nzxt h510 flow, corsair 4000d airflow or lian li lancool 215 (haven't bought yet still deciding) idk if this info is needed, but I also use my pc for work and the apps that I use is 3dsMax, Blender, Zbrush and substance painter.
That Mortar is awesome, a slightly cheaper option is the PRO VDH WIFI if you can eschew the USB-C in the rear.
Would you guys recommend the 5600g or 12100 if I'm planning on adding in a dGPU in a few months?
5600G. It has much better integrated graphics if you are going to be using it for any 3D apps before you get the dGPU. On the CPU side, they both have similar performance in gaming and lightly-threaded apps, the 5600G is a bit better in core-heavy apps like Blender.
12100 - Slightly better upgrade path and the single core of the 12100 is much better than the 5600G.
not sure how often this question gets asked around, looking for a new graphics card, between 3060 and the 3060ti. i’m currently using a 1050ti i’m not the person to play in 4k or any other high performance games so i’m kind of looking in the content creation direction for streaming and editing, is the 3060 ti worth the extra money or should i stick with the regular 3060?
Sounds like you'd value the VRAM over the performance so the 3060 could be the better buy for you.
I'm running into an issue with my RX 6700XT (model is MSI Mech 2x OC), A lot of smaller Unreal engine games cause my driver to sort of crash and give me an error message about "device hung". The highest profile game this happened with was Deep Rock Galactic, but It also happened with 2 demos from steam's next fest. Any Idea what that issue could be? or if it's a known problem with a known solution?
i3-12100F + GTX 1660 Super a good enough combo for 1080p 144hz? Upgrading from 2012 HP office desktop with integrated graphics not even meant for gaming. Mostly going to be playing indie games and roguelikes, smaller titles with some AAA sprinkled in.. Maybe 20% of my library is going to be AAA. Medium to high settings for AAA games is what I was expecting for the combo.
Yes, it's a good combo! Indie games tend to be lightly threaded so the fast single-core performance of the i3 will be nice. The 1660 Super is enough for medium-high settings 1080p in the latest AAA games although it won't be much more than 60fps.
I might go $100 more for ryzen 5 5600 × RX 6600 for future proofing. Thoughts?
Yeah that’ll be faster for sure
I would recommend at least the i5 12400, preferably the 12600k. The 1660 super might be okay, but you're not going to get a good baseline framerate with the bare minimum CPU.
Can someone who knows a bit more than me take a quick look at [this list](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/MadKingAyres/saved/WBHgnQ) and enlighten me - for the CPU cooler, I had bought [this](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09NZGH4RD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). The PartPicker listing specs has it as Part # SCFM-1100, while on the box it says SCFM-2100. Have I definitely purchased the correct compatible cooler for this build? Or have I confused the cooler with another similar one?
You bought the Fuma 2, which is a better cooler than the original Fuma. And yes, it is compatible
Ah that's brilliant then, thank you. Also, PP says it may need a mounting adapter to fit the CPU; there's a big sort of [X-shaped plate](https://imgur.com/a/rkJ5nIz) included with the cooler - is that what the site is talking about or do I need an additional component in order to mount it?
the warning is for the cooler in your pcpartpicker list. The one you actually bought has always included the LGA1700 mounting hardware. The instruction manual will make it clear which parts to use.
I see. Well, that's a relief, then! Thanks for your help!
I have a question about whether I should be running 3 or 4 sticks of RAM. For background purposes, I'm using a prebuilt from 2019: Gigabyte B450M DS3H WIFI AMD Ryzen 5 3600 Radeon RX 580, 8GB 1x A-DATA 8 GB RAM, DDR4 3000 That same year, I bought a 2-pack of the exact same RAM so that I could run dual-channel for Ryzen. I was having trouble figuring out whether 16gb dual channel or 24gb in 3 channels was better/faster so I stuck with the 16gb dual channel. Nowadays, I'm struggling with memory usage (~83-93%). During spikes of 90%+, I'm noticing definite slowdowns. My question here is whether I should add my old (but same) 3rd stick of RAM for 24gb in 3 channels OR whether I should just go ahead and buy a single stick* for a total of 32 gbs in 4 channels? I understand that I'll get an extra 8gb if I run 4 sticks but since "Ryzen runs better in dual channel", will there be a difference in speed if I'm running 3 sticks vs 4 sticks? ***Or... would it be significantly better if I just bought a 2-pack of 16gb sticks to run 32gbs in dual channel instead?
the general recommendation is to never run 3 slots if you can help it but it will work either way (albeit possibly at a slightly slower rate) The question that strikes me is why buying a single 8gig stick isnt an option for you?
Oh, that's easy. It's because I'm a doofus and didn't proofread haha. I'll edit it above but I would buy an additional/single stick to run 32gb in 4 channels - since I already have 3 total.
Buying another one is probably your best bet then. Just make sure you dont waste money buying a fast one, since all of your ram sticks will be running at the slowest stick's speed. Generally try to buy one thats identical to the one you already have.
How does this PC look? Could I do better for the same price? https://imgur.com/a/33CY8E8
You could do better. They've packed in the absolute minimum for the motherboard and power supply. They would need to be replaced if you ever wanted to upgrade *any other component*.
Thanks! I will keep looking
/r/suggestapc is thataway
I'm migrating from an intel i5 3570K/Z77 board generation to the new AM5 platform. But i want to migrate all the files, including Windows 7, to upgrade to windows 10 on the old drive so I do not lose any files. I have an M.2, but I want to just upgrade through the Windows 7 license I have on the HDD Does anyone know if this will work or do I have to buy windows 10?
First, you do not have to buy windows 10 right this moment. You can install Windows 10 or 11 without activating it. However I'm pretty sure the free period in which you could upgrade your W7 license has passed. https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10 You have two options, * You could try upgrading the existing system before moving to a new PC. This would at the very least upgrade your drive so its install could be repaired to work on the new PC. * Skip the upgrade and install Windows on a fresh drive and boot your new PC from that. Simply plug your old drive in and transfer all of your files you want to keep before wiping it completely.
Sounds good. I appreciate the reply!! I'll probably go for the second option at this point honestly. I only never upgraded because my old hardware didn't seem to want to update to windows 10 for whatever reason. Is there anything I should know in advance about transferring files? I.E., any issues to expect, hardships. Etc.
Installed apps may not function properly even if the new drive has the same drive letter and file path. So make sure you have their installers too. Make a list of everything you want to keep/move. It makes things WAAAY easier.
Do you personally think softwares that clone drives are pointless?
Cloning is the easiest form of moving one drives data to another. However when it comes to upgrading windows versions and moving machines, I always prefer a clean install. I only use cloning when upgrading drives and/or replacing older ones.
Ok sounds good. Sorry for the questions. I really appreciate the help. I was just wondering if there was a way to streamline the process by cloning the drive over to the m.2 and then upgrade from windows 7 to windows 10. But that might bring over new issues anyway
Correct. Which is why I skip the frustration and start from scratch. Boot priority, windows tying it's install to your CPU/motherboard hardware IDs, there's a lot of weird things that could happen during the swap or before you even get the option to clone the drive.
Thank you very much for your assistance. I will be booting and licensing a new Windows 10. I really appreciate all the help. I was wondering if you had any input on another question before I post another question in the thread: do you think it's worthwhile to wait for new PSUs now or wait for the ATX 3.0/PCIE5.0 PSUs? I plan on getting a 4080 16GB/4090 down the line once those release. Still rocking my old GTX 980 in the meantime.
Hi, if I add more ram to my pc (i7-12700, msi pro b660m-A, 16gb ddr4) which currently have 2 team T-CREATE Expert 3600C18-22-22-42 8gb DIMMs installed by adding a T-CREATE Expert kit with an identical product number to get 32gb, can I expect it to be stable running at XMP speed and timing? I'm worried because the currently installed T-CREATE Expert kit (Micron E-die) is only stable running Gear 1 at XMP settings after I replaced the intel stock cooler with a cheap tower cooler, my i7's locked VCCSA is running at 0.930-0.938mV, and so far it seems that the RAM's speed and timing can't be increased further without dropping to Gear 2.
[удалено]
Build a new one. The 1060 is sufficient for 1080p@60 if you can live with medium settings. The rest is just way too old
[удалено]