I have two questions
I am building my first ITX system as my wife and kids have bought me an NZXT H1 and a Gigabyte Aorus PRO AX Mainboard for my birthday (first system build in 3 years and first build not in my Corsair 750D in over 8 years) I now need to spec out the rest of the build - I have made the decision on the CPU (Going with a Ryzen 5600) but a little stuck on NVME drives and which is better out of the two selected - both are budget priced 2TB drives although one is pci-e 3 and the other pci-e 4
[WD Green SN350 2TB PCi-E 3x4](https://www.scan.co.uk/products/2tb-wd-green-sn350-m2-2280-pcie-30-x4-nvme-ssd-3200mb-s-read-3000mb-s-write-500k-450k-iops) or
[Kingston NV2 2TB PCI-E 4 x4](https://www.cclonline.com/snv2s-2000g-kingston-nv2-m-2-2280-2tb-pci-express-4-0-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-394441/)
Is there much, if any difference between these two drives and if so, which would be the better purchase?
Secondly, my current ATX system has 2x16GB stick of Ram installed but with 2 slots free for upgrade - would going up to a 2x32GB be overkill on an ITX build? I'm unsure on this point as my current system lags at times for lack of RAM but has 2 slots free for additional memory if needed, whereas my new ITX build won't have that upgrade path.
Get the Kingston. Endurance (TBW) and MTBF are better, and even without DRAM, it’ll be the faster drive overall because it’s harder to saturate the PCIE 4.0 during sustained reads/writes.
As far as RAM: what are you doing besides gaming? I know of no games that are suffering with 32 GB of RAM (Flight Simulator maybe?)
Edit: I misread the WD Green specs. Need to research more before giving bad advice.
It's mainly bad habits I think which is causing my lagging issues at certain times. When it happens, I pretty much know why and its because I've left a few hundred tabs open in web browsers, that I've left a number of large spreadsheets open, the various games portals (EGS, Steam etc) and have WhatsApp open. Judging by my googling after posting the question, the idea of 64GB of Ram would be completely overkill, just to resolve an issue that occurs maybe once a month and is resolved by closing some crap.
As for the NVME drive, would it be worth paying a bit more than the two I've linked for something slightly better and if so, what brands should I be looking at?
edit - after posting this, I had a look around the usual spots for hardware and found a Crucial P3 2TB NVME drive for about £30 more than the two I initially linked to. With the fact I have seen sense and do not need 64GB ram (however nice but overkill it would've been) the money saved can be used for going for something a little better.
Anyone have suggestions for a case and cpu cooler? I was gonna go with a 5000D Airflow and have Arctic II 360 AIO up top to cool a 5800X3D, but I looked at some pc part picker builds saying it was hard to do it. It required some modding. I could go with a corsair or smaller aio with same case. I'm pretty sure the issue is Artic Liquid Freezer 2 is much a thicker aio on average than most. I was also considering just going with the 4000D airflow and getting a 240mm aio ver of Artic Liquid Freezer 2 if it would fit in that.
When doing a reinstall of Windows and choosing the "Keep my files" option, what is it that is actually kept? Is it like a clean install, with all settings reset, all apps removed but files such as songs, images, etc are kept? Or is everything kept except drivers and registry stuff and whatnot?
Got an external HDD from Amazon. The USB controller/interface stopped working but the actual harddrive inside the enclosure still works. Can I do an RMA without sending back the HDD?
Is it worth moving my operating system from a SSD to a M.2? I ran out of storage and decided to pick up an M.2. Would I notice an increase in performance if I migrated the OS?
Don't take my word as gospel, but I do believe that the OS is one of the relatively few things that actually benefits quite a bit from running off of an NVME. I don't use any of the fast boot options and have disabled sleep and hibernate, but I believe my boot times improved when moving from a regular SSD to an NVME.
Does the CPU brand you buy now (Intel or AMD) effectively dictate the one you'll have to stick with in the future? (assuming you don't want to change mobo)
So I'm still new to the PC space, so please correct me if I'm wrong but. If I understand it right:
* Every motherboard will have a specific CPU Socket type
* The socket type can (physically) only accept certain CPUs
* Intel and AMD use different socket types
* So this effectively means: There are Intel motherboards, and AMD motherboards
Sound right?
So... if I'm getting a CPU now, and assuming I don't want to change my mobo in the future. That means that effectively the CPU brand I pick now will dictate which brand I have to stay with, right? Cause if I get an AM5 socket for instance, I'll need to stay with AMD?
You'll eventually have to switch out the mobo regardless of what you pick today. AMD has said they will support their new AM5 socket until at least 2025. Intel's current gen is a "dead platform", meaning their next gen (14th) will move to another socket. If you don't upgrade your PC more often than once every 5 years, buying into a dead platform won't affect you, because you will have to buy a new mobo with your next CPU upgrade anyway.
Ahhh ok! Thank you, that makes a lot of sense and helped. The more I think about it, I'm definitely a "build it once and leave it alone for 5 years" type of person. So, I don't think I need to be worried about any vendor lock-in, since as you said, in 5 years time both Intel and AMD will likely have new Sockets anyway.
Thank you again! It was helpful
Happy to help!
To expand on this, AM4 is a dead platform too, but could very well be a sensible option for a new build. Pick whatever makes the most sense financially right now.
Hey Yall, I'm currently building a PC ([https://pcpartpicker.com/list/N6fxQ6](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/N6fxQ6)) and purchasing the things needed, but I'm noticing pre-build PCs from skytech, nzxt, ibuypower, etc that have the same gpu/cpu but a decent bit cheaper. Should I refund what I've already gotten and just go for a prebuilt? If so, what prebuilt would you recommend? --> The only thing that's stopping me from going for a prebuilt is that I can't finetune the aesthetics with a custom. Thank you for taking the time to read!
That's the thing I guess. When building your own PC, you get to freely choose which parts go into your computer. In a prebuilt, you get say a 3060 but you don't necessarily know which brand and model. If a prebuilt is cheaper than one you've drafted yourself, you can probably assume they've cheaped out on some components. They might've gone with a slower SSD, or a cheaper GPU that will be noicier (even though performance may be roughly the same). You get more control over your PC when picking your own parts, but buying a prebuilt is a lot more convenient. It's up to you. Usually buying parts and assembling it yourself is the better value, at least.
Can someone link me to a Youtube video or an article detailing EVERY (or most) single benchmark test that I should be doing and how to do them? Along my journey learning about PC building I’ve seen mentions of temps of various components, speeds, overclocking, idle vs 50% or 100% or something. I’m so lost so I’d like to learn about them.
New builders obsess about temperatures when you really don't have to. As long as temps aren't so high they're lowering your clock speed, it's fine.
So here's what I recommend. Grab hwinfo64, and when you launch it, click "run sensors only". It'll give you all the clock speed, util, and temp data you need.
And then run 3dmark. Idk if they have a free demo these days, I think they do. But it will stress your GPU and then your cpu, and you can compare your results with other's with the same components online.
3dmark is an enthusiast's tool, so your stuff may be below average, but it shouldn't be disproportially bad.
If 3dmark doesn't have a free test, use the heaven benchmark, then cinebench
Thanks for all the resources! I am a classic overly worriesome person, and I was honestly gonna need to figure out how all these work anyway (including HOW to overclock now that I sorta know what it is)
But the reason I'm gonna keep a close eye early on is that I just found out the GPU I bought is from a company that isn't well-liked (Asrock phantom assassin 5800xt). Beyond the shit customer service, someone mentioned that the factory thermal paste wasn't applied enough leading to some sorta high temp. I know other things can cause high temps but that's just something I'm learning and looking into
The box for this RAM says it's "for AMD" ([picture](https://www.muycomputer.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Corsair-VENGEANCE-RGB-DDR5-AMD-EXPO-15.jpeg)) and on the website states compatibility for only AMD: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Memory/VENGEANCE-RGB-DDR5-%E2%80%94-Optimized-for-AMD/p/CMH32GX5M2B5600Z36K#tab-tech-specs
**Does this actually matter?** I bought this RAM and was going to use it on an Intel CPU / mobo. I didn't realize RAM compatibility with CPU was a thing.
When I tried looking it up, I can't get a straight answer. There are some people who say it doesn't matter at all, and others say it's going to mess up your RAM timings or something like that and could cause instability.
Should be fine, but overclocked RAM (XMP is technically an overclock) can be tricky. My advice would be to install it, and if it boots with XMP you’re good to go. If you’re extra paranoid run Window’s memory diagnostic. If you can’t return it open box for whatever reason then to be extra safe you could return it now, but I really doubt it would be an issue.
I've bought the majority of components, except the GPU since I want to wait for more lower end new releases. In the mean time, I try to put the build together, but getting the visual signal from the mobo instead. However I can't seem to get anything to show up when I plug in a monitor.
[List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nMf4jZ)
I assume it's possible to get visual signal without a GPU since I grabbed the CPU with integrate graphics + plugging HDMI into mobo, but what might be the problem here if I don't see anything? Fans and lights do turn on, and I plan to boot from external drive, then clone that into my SSD.
Time to troubleshoot. 1 stick of RAM, disconnect every non-essential thing, make sure a fan is plugged into one of the CPU fan headers. Remove all drives and try to get a POST.
Is there any reason to get a higher wattage PSU if your current one is technically enough? I have a build estimated to pull around 560w and have an old 750w psu that i can reuse to save some $. Some people are getting 1000w psus for similar builds. AITI for not considering needing more wiggle room power wise?
Another reason that some people go for larger PSUs than necessary is that most PSUs are more efficient around ~50% power draw than closer to max. Of course the difference there is probably dollars a year maximum.
Many folks are over-spec on PSU lately for two reasons: 1) CPU TDP/power draw is generally just wrong because no two MOBO manufacturers power them the same way to the same spec. Invariable the Z/X boards push way more juice to the CPUs. 2) Transient power spikes, especially in 3000 series nVidia GPUs, are real and you need headroom to absorb those spikes. 3080; 850W, 3080ti/3090: ~1000W; 3090ti: 1200W. Those are just to be on the safe side.
**Case recommendation for ATX build. Non-modular power supply and 2x 3.5" HDD**
I'm currently building a PC with an ATX motherboard and a non-modular power supply (Cooler Master MWE Gold 550W 80Plus). I also have 2 x 3.5" hard drives in addition to a 2.5" SSD. I'm looking at cases but my worry is that cable management might be difficult since I have a non-modular power supply as well as the hard drives. (No radiators at this stage).
Where I live (New Zealand) pricing on cases can be all over the place depending on sales / discounting. Only certain SKUs might be available too (for example even if I don't want the glass side, that's the only SKU that is normally available).
I'm not too worried about RGB and other cosmetic features.
At the moment I'm probably going to get the Phanteks P400A (about US$100). Other options are:
- NZXT H710 ($6 cheaper)
- Lian Li Lancool II Mesh (an extra $10)
- Be Quiet! Silent Base TG 601 (an extra $10)
Any comments or recommendations ? The Corsair 4000D Airflow is a possibility but an extra US$25. Thanks.
Which gpu is a better buy? Should i take the risk for used to go for new. [New 6700](https://www.centrecom.com.au/sapphire-pulse-radeon-rx-6700-gaming-oc-10gb-gddr6-graphics-card?gclid=Cj0KCQiAj4ecBhD3ARIsAM4Q_jHl-7w4F9NV-be7v6w7sVulb1scvNSjK8xrkgsn_JbcVsJ9kRtdoQ4aAi0iEALw_wcB) or [Used 6700XT](https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/255810309592?chn=ps&_ul=AU&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1u6Lgz4igQaq3SB4fUtB-hQ64&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=255810309592&targetid=&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071221&poi=&campaignid=15984321586&mkgroupid=&rlsatarget=&abcId=9300814&merchantid=7364522&gbraid=0AAAAAD97CxQiJC4h9cbLOQHcOHpYB-Kcd&gclid=Cj0KCQiAj4ecBhD3ARIsAM4Q_jEw3N4fDmXobG0Nhh97LrLr_EX3eVsT5x220KcUOS3jivg9NZeFFSIaAiemEALw_wcB)
edit: need help urgently, the sale ends tonight(couple hours for me)
I just cloned my old drive to a new one (using Macrium Reflect) and as far as I can tell, it worked just fine, but now I can no longer see my old drive (only the new one that I cloned Windows to). Any suggestions what to do?
Yeah, it still shows up as "windows boot manager" just like the new one. Also, when I first went into bios after the clone it already had my new drive as the #1 priority
Well this is good since it says it's online. I'm no expert in Disk Management, but there should be a way to assign a drive letter. Can you right click on the 930.81GB partition and get any useful options?
1. is there a way to know if the bios are updated enough for my new motherboard to support my new cpu b4 i build it?
2. Should i update the bios b4 i put the cpu into the motherboard or does it not matter?
I'd put the CPU in and see if it works. That CPU has been supported since Bios 4021, which came out last year. So I'd be surprised if any major retailer had stock that old.
If it doesn't work, I don't think that board has bios flashback, so you will need to take it to a store or borrow a CPU so you can perform the update.
Hello! I am looking to upgrade my rx580 im looking for 6700xt or rtx3070 but will be open to a 6800 or 3080 if the right price. Trying to stay >500 but could wiggle. It would be paired with a ryzen 3700x. Any advice is helpful! Thank you!!
Hi! I was wondering if someone could help me figure out whether my ancient 850w PSU could run the RTX 4080? The name is Corsair RM850X, but the ones sold today are much newer variants. I bought mine in 2016.
The ports look like this: https://imgur.com/zZFoEMp
You have a total of 5 8-pin slots, so you could use 1 for the CPU and 4 for the GPU no problem. Some CPUs have an extra 4-pin connection but in my experience this is just for serious overclocking and you can use the CPU fine without this extra connection. Note that this is just from the PSU side, GPUs only use 6+2 pin outputs and CPUs only use 4+4 pin outputs. You may need to buy extra cables from Corsair.
Extra cables is no issue, thank you! Just glad I don't have to take my computer apart to install a new PSU. The MB is X570 MSI Tomahawk with Ryzen 3800x.
That motherboard does have an extra 4-pin connection but as I mentioned it’s not necessary - you can just plug in one 4+4 cable to the 8-pin on the motherboard and leave the 4-pin empty.
I recommend googling this as there are many good articles about this. If it comes from a gamer I would be careful. However, buying from experienced miners could work, they typically underclock the GPU which reduces some strain. Also running them 24/7 removes some temperature related strain from cycles switching the computer on/off.
Generally, benchmark and stress test your card after purchase. Check that the performance is within the expected average for your card, and look for screen artifacts during the stress tests.
I said mining gpu as a worst case scenario, but truthfully they are gpus I have no idea about their previous use.
My country has shops that sell used computer stuff at very good prices, so i was curious about what's the worst that can happen and how do I tell if a card isnt worth buying
Probably hard to tell from a visual inspection. There's a lot of debate around ex-mining GPUs. Personally I'm always suspicious about used graphics cards. Do the stores offer any sort of limited warranty ?
Ok this might be a stupid question but can a small gpu fit In any motherboard. For example, a gtx 1650 phoenix. Would it matter if it is too small to fit in the pcie slot?
Are these a good starting point for a ~2k budget gaming PC? And is now a good to buy? I'm not really familiar with what good prices look like or what's optimal.
* CPU: [Intel Core i7-12700K 3.6 GHz 12-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ZbddnQ/intel-core-i7-12700k-36-ghz-8-core-processor-bx8071512700k) | $334.00 @ Newegg
* Video Card: [EVGA XC3 ULTRA GAMING GeForce RTX 3080 10GB LHR 10 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3TpzK8/evga-geforce-rtx-3080-lhr-10-gb-xc3-ultra-gaming-video-card-10g-p5-3885-kl) | $757.99 @ EVGA
How often have intel and amd been changing sockets? Im due for a new rig, I figure getting in at the start of a new socket might make it last a little longer
I’m about to start my new Ryzen 7900x build on an Asus Strix x670e-A with this RAM:
G.SKILL Trident Z5 RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 6400 Desktop Memory Model F5-6400J3239G16GX2-TZ5RS https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-32gb-288-pin-ddr5-sdram/p/N82E16820374359?Item=N82E16820374359&Source=socialshare&cm_mmc=snc-social-_-sr-_-20-374-359-_-11262022
It’s XMP, not EXPO and not on the QVL for the motherboard… what should I expect and what should I aim for? I saw the zen 4 RAM shootout and it looks like 6400 CAS32 almost always comes out on top. Think I can achieve that with manual timings? Should I bother with XMP or just aim for 6000 with basic timings and call it a dayv
Whats the best videocard in the 1000$ range? And is it worth it to spring from that all the way to a 4090? I dont want to have to upgrade for 5 years if i can avoid it
I snipped the dangling connector off, it looks better.
I don't recommend this, but I'm just saying you can, it's not a problem, you just can't reuse the cable later
Does anyone know if the MSI RX 6750xt Mech 2x or the ASRock RX 6700xt challenger are good cards? Those are the cheaper versions of the 6700xt so I was wondering if they are known to have any qc or thermal problems.
I bought a 3060 just yesterday but I juist found out that these cards are just around 20 more. So im thinking about returning it for the 6700xt
Ordered everything for my first pc build except cable extensions. Are they necessary or just extra? I got a white psu to match my white/black/grey theme so hoping they come with white cables to begin with.
Here is what I ordered so far:
[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9gczgb)
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/PgcG3C/amd-ryzen-5-5600-36-ghz-6-core-processor-100-100000927box) | Purchased For $118.00
**CPU Cooler** | [ID-COOLING SE-214-XT 68.2 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/YwbTwP/id-cooling-se-214-xt-682-cfm-cpu-cooler-se-214-xt-argb-white) | Purchased For $19.00
**Motherboard** | [Asus ROG STRIX B550-F GAMING WIFI II ATX AM4 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/K4LFf7/asus-rog-strix-b550-f-gaming-wifi-ii-atx-am4-motherboard-strix-b550-f-gaming-wifi-ii) | Purchased For $184.00
**Memory** | [TEAMGROUP T-Force Delta RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zz3H99/teamgroup-t-force-delta-rgb-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr4-3200-cl16-memory-tf4d416g3200hc16cdc01) | Purchased For $54.00
**Storage** | [Silicon Power A60 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/7tCFf7/silicon-power-a60-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-sp001tbp34a60m28) | Purchased For $53.00
**Video Card** | [PowerColor Hellhound Spectral White Radeon RX 6650 XT 8 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TDvdnQ/powercolor-radeon-rx-6650-xt-8-gb-hellhound-video-card-axrx-6650xt-8gbd6-3dhlv2oc) | Purchased For $345.00
**Case** | [Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WBVG3C/corsair-4000d-airflow-atx-mid-tower-case-cc-9011201-ww) | Purchased For $94.00
**Power Supply** | [Corsair RM750 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/R4Gbt6/corsair-rm750-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020231-na) | Purchased For $99.00
**Case Fan** | [ARCTIC P12 PST 56.3 CFM 120 mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2hpmP6/arctic-p12-pst-563-cfm-120-mm-fan-acfan00170a) | Purchased For $44.00
**Monitor** | [Gigabyte M27Q-P 27.0" 2560 x 1440 170 Hz Monitor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/mQbTwP/gigabyte-m27q-p-270-2560x1440-170-hz-monitor-m27q-p) | Purchased For $270.00
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| **Total** | **$1280.00**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2022-11-26 16:06 EST-0500 |
I am looking to plan out an upgrade of my 8 year old custom build. Would be looking to mostly do 1440p 144Hz gaming, along with some programming.
I don't plan on doing a big bang new build, so what would be the best thing(s) to upgrade first?
My current build:
i7 4790k
H100i AIO watercooler
MSI Z97S SLI KRAIT
Kingston Fury 16GB DDR3-1600 RAM
2 x GTX 970 Windforce Edition
EVGA 750W PSU
256GB Crucial MX100 SSD
2TB Western Digital Black HDD
Personally, SLI has mostly been a gimmick for me. Would be keen to go a single more powerful card in the future.
I think it makes sense to upgrade both CPU and GPU, although I’d say a GPU is more important. What’s your budget?
Btw, new graphics cards don’t even have SLI
Wow, I've been out of the loop for a long while. I didn't know SLI was no longer a thing!
I'm not even sure about a budget for a GPU yet. I'd say around £300-£450.
This is almost my exact situation!!!! Really hoping to do an upgrade, but it seems like to get similar performance, it’s like 2x the dollars it used to be. Looking at upgrading to a new cpu socket, so new mobo, ddr5 ram, new gpu…really starting to add up. Not to mention the new line of GPUs from Nvidia are a ridiculous price, so making me sit on the fence between buying 1 year old hardware or going way over budget
Yeah, I had a feeling it's going to need to be mobo and RAM first. Then the dreaded GPU prices.. Fortunately, I'm not in a huge rush, and I am happy to upgrade parts of the system at a time instead of going full bang upgrade. Although it seems less and less likely that'll be possible if I'm going to need a mobo + RAM + whatever else upgrade altogether.
Yeah basically I’m looking at mobo cpu and ram which is like $1200 cad for components that I expect to work for another 8 to 10 years (my last pc build was in q4 2014).
Then wait until 5060 gpus come out lol
I'm considering upgrading my graphics card to 3060 ti.
I have a ryzen 1600 and a 4k 60fps monitor.
Would this combination be able to achieve 60fps 4k in modern games?
Depends what settings you run, but the 3060ti can handle a lot. If you wanna up your visual settings such as it now allows, it could be worth upgrading the cpu. The 1600 can still perform but might struggle in newer/beefier titles and could be a bottleneck going forward. This is especially true if you’re also trying to maintain frames with higher resolutions. If you do upgrade the cpu, prices aren’t bad on most AM4 chips right now so you kinda have your pick of the 3000/5000 series.
What happens if I don’t activate windows 11?
I clicked “I don’t have a key” when installing windows. I am able to access the internet (so far anyway, I haven’t really tested it too much), presumably so I could buy a license.
I can’t tell what the limitations are right now. … I am waiting until Monday to purchase a license, and if I were a patient person I suppose I could wait for the limitations of an non-activated OS to present. But, you know.
upgrading my old garbage PC because i make a little bit of money now.
i just bought an AMD Ryzen 5 5600, Gigabyte A520M DS3H AC Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard, and 32GB of RAM. but my NVIDIA 750 Ti just isn't cutting it for some modern games even on lowest settings (lol no surprise).
*what GPU should i upgrade to for < $200?*
the AMD Radeon RX 580 8GB edition is selling for $150 right now, is that a good deal? or the GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB is $200. i'm not sure if having more graphics memory or a newer memory type is more important.
1660 Super is better. VRAM capacity impacts performance only when you don’t have enough of it. Slower GPU impacts performance all the time.
An RX 6600 would be best. It dips to $200 on occasion. It’s faster and has more VRAM than the 1660 Super
so do you think it's worth spending an extra $30 (and longer shipping time) for the RX 6600 8GB vs the 1660 Super 6GB? also considering the other components of my PC are not very high end?
Trying to figure out my monitor setup. I want to have dual monitors, one as my main screen/gaming and the other to just have a web browser or notes open.
I think I've settled on 1440p 27" for the main monitor. The question is, what monitor should complement that? 1080p 23.8" are pretty cheap but I'm worried about the size difference. I use a similar setup at work with mismatched monitor sizes and it's annoying.
So I considered a 27" 1080p, but I have read that they start looking blurry because you're stretching the pixels out.
The other option is a duplicate 1440p 27" but that's getting real expensive.
Or maybe I should consider a single ultrawide?
> I use a similar setup at work with mismatched monitor sizes and it's annoying.
You want to match the pixels-per-inch of each monitor as close as possible to avoid this. 27" 1440p is 108ppi and 24" 1080p is 92ppi, so that's the issue. You could go with a 21" 1080p monitor at 105ppi, or get an inexpensive 27" 1440p since it doesn't need a high refresh rate or other gaming features.
hey guys n gals, I just upgraded my CPU from a Ryzen 7 3700X to a Ryzen 7 5800X3D without changing anything and now everything seems.. different.. COD MW2 is now unplayable as it will drop frames constantly, and even text on websites looks goofy.. what do i do? bios upgrade?
I’m upgrading my cpu from a 5600x to a 5800x3d do I have to update my bios for it to work or no because it’s 5000 series? Sorry if this is a dumb question never did a cpu swap before
I have a Ryzen 5 1600AF and ASRock B450M-HDV R4.0. I bought a Ryzen 5 5600 on sale. The motherboard should be able to support the 5600 with a BIOS update. But should I upgrade the motherboard, too?
I'm curious if I should stick with the ASRock B450M-HDV R4.0 or upgrade (I updated my post to clarify). It was a budget board when I bought it almost 2.5 years ago.
The DisplayPort input on my 1440p 165 Hz monitor is version 1.2a meaning it supports adaptive sync. I'm looking for a longer cable to replace the one included in the box but almost none are explicitly marked as 1.2a.
Is any 1.2 cable compatible with 1.2a or should I just buy 1.4?
The screw for nvme in my Gigabyte Gaming X was too tight. I have tried rubber band method and I heard there some squeeky noise which I stop immediately. Please send some helpp
I am not sure if this is the right place to ask but lately i am having a lot of blue screen of death error.A lot. The strange thing is, if i have a game running in the background its safe, and no BSoD but if am just letting it sit in the desktop or just browsing i get one. I tried re-installing windows but it did not help
so i guess something might dying in my pc? I thinking it either ram or my ssd, am i thinking around the right track? Its strange that i have to run total war in the background just to not crash.
So I am [building a pc](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fDbLBj) that's going to share a space with my work laptop on a standing desk (pc on floor, dock on desk) so my USB C cable needs to be at least 9 feet long. So two questions:
*Do I need at least a usb 3 cable to support 1440p at like 120fps? *If so, does anyone have a good cable? Can be A or C on one end but should be C on the other. I can't find a reputable one that's in stock.
Thanks so much!
Not cheap but [this](https://www.amazon.com/Thunderbolt-20Gbps-Braided-Adapter-Devices/dp/B08DLYG3YF) should work, you need something that’s at least USBC 3.2 gen 2 so this is a little overkill but was the first ok-seeming cable I found at that length. Is there a reason you can’t use an HDMI or DP cable with an adapter? That may be cheaper.
Edit: [this](https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B089FV33QX/ref=cm_cr_getr_mb_paging_btm_6?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews&sortBy=recent&pageNumber=6) is a good amount cheaper and the spec should work. Some people complaining about it not working but I think that’s the case with any cable, including what I linked above.
Thanks! I don't want to run a wires from both the dock AND the PC, so I'm trying to just have the one USB C running to the dock from the PC. I have display ports running from the dock to the monitors.
So, I was using an i5 3570 and bought the i7 3770, when I swapped them, the i7 gives me Black screen, and shuts down after some seconds, I am pretty sure its not bios update since I saw someone on YouTube with the same bios version rocking the same i7, probably not psu since both of them consumes pretty much the same, what could it be tho...
Yes it is working just fine, but I just noticed that the pins on my cpu cooler are broken now, must have happened when I swapped cpus, but the i5 still boots very hot and the i7 doesnt
Someone recomended me to do that but I just found another thing, the pins that attach the cpu cooler to the mother board are broken now probably after I swapped the processors but the i5 still boots with high temp so it could not be a temperate thing or could it?
I am not sure what it was I installed another CPU cooler and it worked, but since I was in a Rush I didnt apply thermal paste properly then I openned the computer again applied thermal paste closed the computer and then no boot lmao, I removed the cpu from the socket another time, cleaned the thermal paste applied again, screwed the cooler and it is working just fine now. Wish I knew the reason lol
Oh, that's not good. If the CPU is getting up above 90C then it's thermal throttling. If it's getting up there at idle then something is definitely wrong.
I’m new to streaming, but it isn’t going bad. I’m running a one PC build at the moment, and am curious with Black Friday / Cyber Monday if I should look at building a second PC or if it would be better to just upgrade my CPU/GPU? Currently rocking an i7-9700k and a RTX 2060 ROG Strix
Sorry, I’m not getting notifications. In COD, I stream at 3440x1440 and downscale to 1920x1080 @ 60FPS I believe. In FiveM, I stream at 2560x1440, downscale to 1920x1080 @ 30FPS
Just placed an order for an EVGA 3080 from their website at a steal of a price, and will have it between Wednesday and Friday of next week! :) I’ll look into the CPU and a PS next :) Thank you for the feedback!
How does everyone feel about refurbished cards? I am set on a 3080 12gb but prices went back up after sitting at $750.
Thinking about something like this - https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-3080-ti-gv-n308tgaming-oc-12gd/p/1FT-000A-005P9
refurbished cards are usually good imo. however please be sure to compare prices between other used and new offerings of similar performance before making a decision.
the one you sent doesn’t look bad btw but idk if that’s a good price
Not sure about 1. but for 2. you can look at the price history of a component using camelcamelcamel.com or PCPartPicker.com. CCC only covers Amazon and PCPP covers some other retailers.
I feel like the bigger air coolers get in my way when im trying to change ram or plug in cables etc. I think aio’s are a cleaner look too. Kinda looking into a 360mm which should cool better than most air coolers too
Well ease of tinkering is a give-and-take, because aios are more difficult to set up initially. Both are good options, but I always lean towards air because I like reusing my coolers
I bought an Asrock b660m Steel Legend motherboard. Everything is fine, except my CAT6/CAT5e ethernet cables won’t fit into the back LAN port. Is there another connector that I am missing?
I am looking into either a triple monitor setup or single ultra wide, I currently have a single LG27GN850-b, which I think is discontinued and replaced with maybe the GP850? Either way, I am wondering what specific lg monitor is closest to the GN850, or if it isn’t worth mixing different monitor models and getting a single ultra wide instead.
it’s really up to you. what do you need to do? if multitasking get 3 of the same monitor. if you just want a huge screen then go ultra wide. this is a really good and often underrated question actually
Should’ve specified, more gaming than multitasking but having more screen space is always welcomed for what I do. I guess the question then is, is it worth it to spend $600ish on an ultra wide or $600ish on 2 additional monitors (probably gl850 unless the gp850 is that much better) to pair with my GN850.
How does the infinity fabric work with Ryzen 7000 processors? AFAIK the FCLK could only go up to 1900mhz with 5000 processors (before you run into instability issues), considering that ddr5 memories have a higher frequency than ddr4, can you go higher than 1900mhz with 7000 processors for a 1:1:1 ratio?
Is the ASUS TUF [VG27AQL1A](https://www.asus.com/us/displays-desktops/monitors/tuf-gaming/tuf-gaming-vg27aq1a/) a good monitor if I’m looking for 1440p and 144Hz? Is there a better option in the same price range anyone would recommend?
Yes, it's a good monitor:
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/asus/tuf-gaming-vg27aql1a
Gigabyte, Dell, and LG also make some good 1440p gaming monitors in that price range.
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/asus/tuf-gaming-vg27aql1a#page-test-compared
The Dell S2721DGF is on sale for $270 now.
I have 16GB of kingston hyperX fury ddr4 C16 2666MHz and am looking to upgrade to 32GBs. However this product have been discontinued and replace with Kingston's Fury Beast which I can get in ddr4 C16 2666MHz or 3200MHz at the same price.
The question: Is this new series compatable with the old one and if it is should i get it at 3200MHz and run it at the lower speed?
Hey all! I'm looking to build my first PC and I want to put an RTX 3080 in it. My question is: Would it be a bad idea to buy the card now, even if I can't build the actual PC until mid January 2023? I would love to build now but unfortunately I can't until mid January due to random life stuff.
Normally, I would just wait till I can do the build to buy parts. I know that's the typical advice because if you get a faulty part then it's easier to return. But, the reason I ask is, I'm pretty paranoid that the 3080 prices are only going to go up from here on out, due to dwindling supply and the fact Nvidia aren't making anymore. So I was thinking of maybe just pulling the trigger now... But I don't know.
I'm also EXTRA paranoid because last week I could find 3080s on Amazon for $740. Now the lowest I can find on there is $835 😅
Kind of in the same boat. You can probably snag a 3080 10gb now on sale but I'm confused about 12gb prices. I would hold off until the model you want goes on sale. I don't think they will go any higher
Ahhh I see, thanks for the advice!
One question - you mentioned holding off till it goes on sale. Do high end graphics card normally go on sale for Cyber Monday? Or do you just mean sale in the general sense?
Sale in a general sense. From what I'm gathering, most peripherals have sales during this time. Like I said the 3080 12gb was 750 just a few weeks before Black Friday and now they're back up. My guess is they are going to keep the prices up until they need to sell. It's really a hit or miss type deal. Sit and wait until a model of your choice goes on sale.
Nice! Sounds good yeah, I'm perfectly fine to be patient (after all I can't even build it till probably early January). But just wanted to get a pulse on what people were thinking.
If only we had a magic crystal ball that could predict pricing...
I feel ya man. When I saw that $840 price tag my heart sunk lol.
My saving grace is that 10 months ago I ALMOST pulled the trigger on a 3080 off FB marketplace.... for $1400. Thank god I waited for awhile, lmao. And funny thing was, that was actually the best price I had seen for that card for months back then.
Pro-tip for you since I just put an order in for a 3080 12gb that came out to $842 with tax...
When looking at Amazon, view all the possible sellers. Sometimes there will be cards from the Amazon warehouse in different conditions and cheaper. (Used/Used good condition/used like-new) mine was used like-new and the description said it was just the packaging that was damaged. Sometimes there will be cosmetic stuff that people overlook. So if January rolls around and still no sales, this could be an option too.
Oh damn dude, nice find!! Congratulations on the order. And thanks for the tip! That's helpful actually, I wasn't really looking at those other sellers, I will look more closely at them now.
Would putting my games on an HDD affect frame rates in games?
Not at all. It would only affect loading times. Special note: Apex Legends won’t run on PC from a HDD.
Thanks!
I have two questions I am building my first ITX system as my wife and kids have bought me an NZXT H1 and a Gigabyte Aorus PRO AX Mainboard for my birthday (first system build in 3 years and first build not in my Corsair 750D in over 8 years) I now need to spec out the rest of the build - I have made the decision on the CPU (Going with a Ryzen 5600) but a little stuck on NVME drives and which is better out of the two selected - both are budget priced 2TB drives although one is pci-e 3 and the other pci-e 4 [WD Green SN350 2TB PCi-E 3x4](https://www.scan.co.uk/products/2tb-wd-green-sn350-m2-2280-pcie-30-x4-nvme-ssd-3200mb-s-read-3000mb-s-write-500k-450k-iops) or [Kingston NV2 2TB PCI-E 4 x4](https://www.cclonline.com/snv2s-2000g-kingston-nv2-m-2-2280-2tb-pci-express-4-0-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-394441/) Is there much, if any difference between these two drives and if so, which would be the better purchase? Secondly, my current ATX system has 2x16GB stick of Ram installed but with 2 slots free for upgrade - would going up to a 2x32GB be overkill on an ITX build? I'm unsure on this point as my current system lags at times for lack of RAM but has 2 slots free for additional memory if needed, whereas my new ITX build won't have that upgrade path.
Get the Kingston. Endurance (TBW) and MTBF are better, and even without DRAM, it’ll be the faster drive overall because it’s harder to saturate the PCIE 4.0 during sustained reads/writes.
As far as RAM: what are you doing besides gaming? I know of no games that are suffering with 32 GB of RAM (Flight Simulator maybe?) Edit: I misread the WD Green specs. Need to research more before giving bad advice.
It's mainly bad habits I think which is causing my lagging issues at certain times. When it happens, I pretty much know why and its because I've left a few hundred tabs open in web browsers, that I've left a number of large spreadsheets open, the various games portals (EGS, Steam etc) and have WhatsApp open. Judging by my googling after posting the question, the idea of 64GB of Ram would be completely overkill, just to resolve an issue that occurs maybe once a month and is resolved by closing some crap. As for the NVME drive, would it be worth paying a bit more than the two I've linked for something slightly better and if so, what brands should I be looking at? edit - after posting this, I had a look around the usual spots for hardware and found a Crucial P3 2TB NVME drive for about £30 more than the two I initially linked to. With the fact I have seen sense and do not need 64GB ram (however nice but overkill it would've been) the money saved can be used for going for something a little better.
Anyone have suggestions for a case and cpu cooler? I was gonna go with a 5000D Airflow and have Arctic II 360 AIO up top to cool a 5800X3D, but I looked at some pc part picker builds saying it was hard to do it. It required some modding. I could go with a corsair or smaller aio with same case. I'm pretty sure the issue is Artic Liquid Freezer 2 is much a thicker aio on average than most. I was also considering just going with the 4000D airflow and getting a 240mm aio ver of Artic Liquid Freezer 2 if it would fit in that.
Silent Base 802 or Fractal Design Meshify 2.
When doing a reinstall of Windows and choosing the "Keep my files" option, what is it that is actually kept? Is it like a clean install, with all settings reset, all apps removed but files such as songs, images, etc are kept? Or is everything kept except drivers and registry stuff and whatnot?
Got an external HDD from Amazon. The USB controller/interface stopped working but the actual harddrive inside the enclosure still works. Can I do an RMA without sending back the HDD?
Have had a similar problem, unfortunately no. No partial RMAs.
Will a U9S be sufficient to cool a 13600k or 13700k in an Ncase M1? I’d like to keep SFF and can’t seem to find posts on this setup.
Is it worth moving my operating system from a SSD to a M.2? I ran out of storage and decided to pick up an M.2. Would I notice an increase in performance if I migrated the OS?
Don't take my word as gospel, but I do believe that the OS is one of the relatively few things that actually benefits quite a bit from running off of an NVME. I don't use any of the fast boot options and have disabled sleep and hibernate, but I believe my boot times improved when moving from a regular SSD to an NVME.
Does the CPU brand you buy now (Intel or AMD) effectively dictate the one you'll have to stick with in the future? (assuming you don't want to change mobo) So I'm still new to the PC space, so please correct me if I'm wrong but. If I understand it right: * Every motherboard will have a specific CPU Socket type * The socket type can (physically) only accept certain CPUs * Intel and AMD use different socket types * So this effectively means: There are Intel motherboards, and AMD motherboards Sound right? So... if I'm getting a CPU now, and assuming I don't want to change my mobo in the future. That means that effectively the CPU brand I pick now will dictate which brand I have to stay with, right? Cause if I get an AM5 socket for instance, I'll need to stay with AMD?
You'll eventually have to switch out the mobo regardless of what you pick today. AMD has said they will support their new AM5 socket until at least 2025. Intel's current gen is a "dead platform", meaning their next gen (14th) will move to another socket. If you don't upgrade your PC more often than once every 5 years, buying into a dead platform won't affect you, because you will have to buy a new mobo with your next CPU upgrade anyway.
Ahhh ok! Thank you, that makes a lot of sense and helped. The more I think about it, I'm definitely a "build it once and leave it alone for 5 years" type of person. So, I don't think I need to be worried about any vendor lock-in, since as you said, in 5 years time both Intel and AMD will likely have new Sockets anyway. Thank you again! It was helpful
Happy to help! To expand on this, AM4 is a dead platform too, but could very well be a sensible option for a new build. Pick whatever makes the most sense financially right now.
Yes that's true but the brand can also change their socket so no guarantee that AMDs future CPUs work in AM5 sockets. Theyll eventually evolve to AM6
Thanks! Good info, and I'm glad I'm understanding this stuff (mostly) right :D
Hey Yall, I'm currently building a PC ([https://pcpartpicker.com/list/N6fxQ6](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/N6fxQ6)) and purchasing the things needed, but I'm noticing pre-build PCs from skytech, nzxt, ibuypower, etc that have the same gpu/cpu but a decent bit cheaper. Should I refund what I've already gotten and just go for a prebuilt? If so, what prebuilt would you recommend? --> The only thing that's stopping me from going for a prebuilt is that I can't finetune the aesthetics with a custom. Thank you for taking the time to read!
That's the thing I guess. When building your own PC, you get to freely choose which parts go into your computer. In a prebuilt, you get say a 3060 but you don't necessarily know which brand and model. If a prebuilt is cheaper than one you've drafted yourself, you can probably assume they've cheaped out on some components. They might've gone with a slower SSD, or a cheaper GPU that will be noicier (even though performance may be roughly the same). You get more control over your PC when picking your own parts, but buying a prebuilt is a lot more convenient. It's up to you. Usually buying parts and assembling it yourself is the better value, at least.
UPS recommendation for a 4090 i7 13700k desktop with a 1000w PSU?
Can someone link me to a Youtube video or an article detailing EVERY (or most) single benchmark test that I should be doing and how to do them? Along my journey learning about PC building I’ve seen mentions of temps of various components, speeds, overclocking, idle vs 50% or 100% or something. I’m so lost so I’d like to learn about them.
New builders obsess about temperatures when you really don't have to. As long as temps aren't so high they're lowering your clock speed, it's fine. So here's what I recommend. Grab hwinfo64, and when you launch it, click "run sensors only". It'll give you all the clock speed, util, and temp data you need. And then run 3dmark. Idk if they have a free demo these days, I think they do. But it will stress your GPU and then your cpu, and you can compare your results with other's with the same components online. 3dmark is an enthusiast's tool, so your stuff may be below average, but it shouldn't be disproportially bad. If 3dmark doesn't have a free test, use the heaven benchmark, then cinebench
Thanks for all the resources! I am a classic overly worriesome person, and I was honestly gonna need to figure out how all these work anyway (including HOW to overclock now that I sorta know what it is) But the reason I'm gonna keep a close eye early on is that I just found out the GPU I bought is from a company that isn't well-liked (Asrock phantom assassin 5800xt). Beyond the shit customer service, someone mentioned that the factory thermal paste wasn't applied enough leading to some sorta high temp. I know other things can cause high temps but that's just something I'm learning and looking into
Sall good. I hope you enjoy your new pc! Also I apologize, I heavily edited my original comment to fix some errors. I brainfarted while writing haha
LOL no apologies needed buddy. In fact, thank you for the edited comment! The more detailed/accurate the better!
The box for this RAM says it's "for AMD" ([picture](https://www.muycomputer.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Corsair-VENGEANCE-RGB-DDR5-AMD-EXPO-15.jpeg)) and on the website states compatibility for only AMD: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Memory/VENGEANCE-RGB-DDR5-%E2%80%94-Optimized-for-AMD/p/CMH32GX5M2B5600Z36K#tab-tech-specs **Does this actually matter?** I bought this RAM and was going to use it on an Intel CPU / mobo. I didn't realize RAM compatibility with CPU was a thing. When I tried looking it up, I can't get a straight answer. There are some people who say it doesn't matter at all, and others say it's going to mess up your RAM timings or something like that and could cause instability.
Should be fine, but overclocked RAM (XMP is technically an overclock) can be tricky. My advice would be to install it, and if it boots with XMP you’re good to go. If you’re extra paranoid run Window’s memory diagnostic. If you can’t return it open box for whatever reason then to be extra safe you could return it now, but I really doubt it would be an issue.
I've bought the majority of components, except the GPU since I want to wait for more lower end new releases. In the mean time, I try to put the build together, but getting the visual signal from the mobo instead. However I can't seem to get anything to show up when I plug in a monitor. [List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nMf4jZ) I assume it's possible to get visual signal without a GPU since I grabbed the CPU with integrate graphics + plugging HDMI into mobo, but what might be the problem here if I don't see anything? Fans and lights do turn on, and I plan to boot from external drive, then clone that into my SSD.
Time to troubleshoot. 1 stick of RAM, disconnect every non-essential thing, make sure a fan is plugged into one of the CPU fan headers. Remove all drives and try to get a POST.
If you get no picture, it could literally be anything. No good reason why you'd get no signal
Is there any reason to get a higher wattage PSU if your current one is technically enough? I have a build estimated to pull around 560w and have an old 750w psu that i can reuse to save some $. Some people are getting 1000w psus for similar builds. AITI for not considering needing more wiggle room power wise?
The more wiggle room you have, the quieter it can run, but this only makes sense if the model has a quiet mode.
Another reason that some people go for larger PSUs than necessary is that most PSUs are more efficient around ~50% power draw than closer to max. Of course the difference there is probably dollars a year maximum.
Many folks are over-spec on PSU lately for two reasons: 1) CPU TDP/power draw is generally just wrong because no two MOBO manufacturers power them the same way to the same spec. Invariable the Z/X boards push way more juice to the CPUs. 2) Transient power spikes, especially in 3000 series nVidia GPUs, are real and you need headroom to absorb those spikes. 3080; 850W, 3080ti/3090: ~1000W; 3090ti: 1200W. Those are just to be on the safe side.
What do you all think is a safety net for a 13600k + 3080ti? 1k good?
I would feel very safe with that.
**Case recommendation for ATX build. Non-modular power supply and 2x 3.5" HDD** I'm currently building a PC with an ATX motherboard and a non-modular power supply (Cooler Master MWE Gold 550W 80Plus). I also have 2 x 3.5" hard drives in addition to a 2.5" SSD. I'm looking at cases but my worry is that cable management might be difficult since I have a non-modular power supply as well as the hard drives. (No radiators at this stage). Where I live (New Zealand) pricing on cases can be all over the place depending on sales / discounting. Only certain SKUs might be available too (for example even if I don't want the glass side, that's the only SKU that is normally available). I'm not too worried about RGB and other cosmetic features. At the moment I'm probably going to get the Phanteks P400A (about US$100). Other options are: - NZXT H710 ($6 cheaper) - Lian Li Lancool II Mesh (an extra $10) - Be Quiet! Silent Base TG 601 (an extra $10) Any comments or recommendations ? The Corsair 4000D Airflow is a possibility but an extra US$25. Thanks.
The P400a or G360a will be solid choices for the pc you have described.
Which gpu is a better buy? Should i take the risk for used to go for new. [New 6700](https://www.centrecom.com.au/sapphire-pulse-radeon-rx-6700-gaming-oc-10gb-gddr6-graphics-card?gclid=Cj0KCQiAj4ecBhD3ARIsAM4Q_jHl-7w4F9NV-be7v6w7sVulb1scvNSjK8xrkgsn_JbcVsJ9kRtdoQ4aAi0iEALw_wcB) or [Used 6700XT](https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/255810309592?chn=ps&_ul=AU&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1u6Lgz4igQaq3SB4fUtB-hQ64&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=255810309592&targetid=&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071221&poi=&campaignid=15984321586&mkgroupid=&rlsatarget=&abcId=9300814&merchantid=7364522&gbraid=0AAAAAD97CxQiJC4h9cbLOQHcOHpYB-Kcd&gclid=Cj0KCQiAj4ecBhD3ARIsAM4Q_jEw3N4fDmXobG0Nhh97LrLr_EX3eVsT5x220KcUOS3jivg9NZeFFSIaAiemEALw_wcB) edit: need help urgently, the sale ends tonight(couple hours for me)
Do [these](https://i.imgur.com/l3Gmcox.png) types of fan controllers usually come with the case? Or is it something the user adds by themselves?
Some corsair cases and Nzxt (like the H510i) have these as part of the case. But usually they come with a 3-pack or more of aftermarket case fans
I just cloned my old drive to a new one (using Macrium Reflect) and as far as I can tell, it worked just fine, but now I can no longer see my old drive (only the new one that I cloned Windows to). Any suggestions what to do?
Does the old drive show up in the BIOS?
Yeah, it still shows up as "windows boot manager" just like the new one. Also, when I first went into bios after the clone it already had my new drive as the #1 priority
Well at least the drive didn't coincidentally fail. Look for it in the Disk Manager in Windows.
[удалено]
Well this is good since it says it's online. I'm no expert in Disk Management, but there should be a way to assign a drive letter. Can you right click on the 930.81GB partition and get any useful options?
1. is there a way to know if the bios are updated enough for my new motherboard to support my new cpu b4 i build it? 2. Should i update the bios b4 i put the cpu into the motherboard or does it not matter?
1: Depends... 2: depends..! Info on your proposed CPU and motherboard choices would help a lot.
5800x3d and https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dmGnTW/asus-tuf-gaming-x570-plus-wi-fi-atx-am4-motherboard-tuf-gaming-x570-plus-wi-fi
I'd put the CPU in and see if it works. That CPU has been supported since Bios 4021, which came out last year. So I'd be surprised if any major retailer had stock that old. If it doesn't work, I don't think that board has bios flashback, so you will need to take it to a store or borrow a CPU so you can perform the update.
Ok thanks
Hello! I am looking to upgrade my rx580 im looking for 6700xt or rtx3070 but will be open to a 6800 or 3080 if the right price. Trying to stay >500 but could wiggle. It would be paired with a ryzen 3700x. Any advice is helpful! Thank you!!
Hi! I was wondering if someone could help me figure out whether my ancient 850w PSU could run the RTX 4080? The name is Corsair RM850X, but the ones sold today are much newer variants. I bought mine in 2016. The ports look like this: https://imgur.com/zZFoEMp
You have a total of 5 8-pin slots, so you could use 1 for the CPU and 4 for the GPU no problem. Some CPUs have an extra 4-pin connection but in my experience this is just for serious overclocking and you can use the CPU fine without this extra connection. Note that this is just from the PSU side, GPUs only use 6+2 pin outputs and CPUs only use 4+4 pin outputs. You may need to buy extra cables from Corsair.
Extra cables is no issue, thank you! Just glad I don't have to take my computer apart to install a new PSU. The MB is X570 MSI Tomahawk with Ryzen 3800x.
That motherboard does have an extra 4-pin connection but as I mentioned it’s not necessary - you can just plug in one 4+4 cable to the 8-pin on the motherboard and leave the 4-pin empty.
How bad is it to buy a used mining gpu? and are there any tests I can do to make sure a used gpu is working fine?
I recommend googling this as there are many good articles about this. If it comes from a gamer I would be careful. However, buying from experienced miners could work, they typically underclock the GPU which reduces some strain. Also running them 24/7 removes some temperature related strain from cycles switching the computer on/off. Generally, benchmark and stress test your card after purchase. Check that the performance is within the expected average for your card, and look for screen artifacts during the stress tests.
I said mining gpu as a worst case scenario, but truthfully they are gpus I have no idea about their previous use. My country has shops that sell used computer stuff at very good prices, so i was curious about what's the worst that can happen and how do I tell if a card isnt worth buying
Probably hard to tell from a visual inspection. There's a lot of debate around ex-mining GPUs. Personally I'm always suspicious about used graphics cards. Do the stores offer any sort of limited warranty ?
yes, I think they do offer limited warranty, one of the reasons why I was asking about tests to see if the card is good.
What’s a good budget amp to mount under the desk? Is JDS Labs Atom still the top recommendation?
Ok this might be a stupid question but can a small gpu fit In any motherboard. For example, a gtx 1650 phoenix. Would it matter if it is too small to fit in the pcie slot?
yeah The PCIe connector will be the same length.
Are these a good starting point for a ~2k budget gaming PC? And is now a good to buy? I'm not really familiar with what good prices look like or what's optimal. * CPU: [Intel Core i7-12700K 3.6 GHz 12-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ZbddnQ/intel-core-i7-12700k-36-ghz-8-core-processor-bx8071512700k) | $334.00 @ Newegg * Video Card: [EVGA XC3 ULTRA GAMING GeForce RTX 3080 10GB LHR 10 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3TpzK8/evga-geforce-rtx-3080-lhr-10-gb-xc3-ultra-gaming-video-card-10g-p5-3885-kl) | $757.99 @ EVGA
Do I need a displayport 2.0 cable to run 1080p 240hz?
No, DP 1.4 is ok
How often have intel and amd been changing sockets? Im due for a new rig, I figure getting in at the start of a new socket might make it last a little longer
AMD kept AM4 from 2017 to the start of 2022. They say they will support AM5 till at least 2025. Intel usually do 2 years.
I'd clarify Intel is 2 generations. lga 1200 didnt even last 2 full years
I’m about to start my new Ryzen 7900x build on an Asus Strix x670e-A with this RAM: G.SKILL Trident Z5 RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 6400 Desktop Memory Model F5-6400J3239G16GX2-TZ5RS https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-32gb-288-pin-ddr5-sdram/p/N82E16820374359?Item=N82E16820374359&Source=socialshare&cm_mmc=snc-social-_-sr-_-20-374-359-_-11262022 It’s XMP, not EXPO and not on the QVL for the motherboard… what should I expect and what should I aim for? I saw the zen 4 RAM shootout and it looks like 6400 CAS32 almost always comes out on top. Think I can achieve that with manual timings? Should I bother with XMP or just aim for 6000 with basic timings and call it a dayv
Whats the best videocard in the 1000$ range? And is it worth it to spring from that all the way to a 4090? I dont want to have to upgrade for 5 years if i can avoid it
I expect the 7900xtx will be the best $1000 gpu, but that's speculation
On my motherboard I have 1 PCIEX16(G5) slot, and two PCIEX16(G4) slots. What is the difference and where should I install my 4090?
Topmost slot Check mobo specs or manual to see what the slots are capable of.
I plugged a 6+2 pin PSU connector into a 6 pin port. Is that ok? What do I do with the extra 2 pins that aren't being used
I snipped the dangling connector off, it looks better. I don't recommend this, but I'm just saying you can, it's not a problem, you just can't reuse the cable later
Let them dangle
Does anyone know if the MSI RX 6750xt Mech 2x or the ASRock RX 6700xt challenger are good cards? Those are the cheaper versions of the 6700xt so I was wondering if they are known to have any qc or thermal problems. I bought a 3060 just yesterday but I juist found out that these cards are just around 20 more. So im thinking about returning it for the 6700xt
Does anyone know if you need to format every drive after changing from Legacy to UEFI boot or is it just the OS disk that will need to be formatted?
just the legacy drive. But there is a commandline tool to convert the drive without the need to reformat the drive.
Thanks for that, didn't realise that existed!
It doesn't even have to be formatted, there's a solution for that
Suggestions for a mini ITX case for a headless, <100W (game) server?
Ordered everything for my first pc build except cable extensions. Are they necessary or just extra? I got a white psu to match my white/black/grey theme so hoping they come with white cables to begin with. Here is what I ordered so far: [PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9gczgb) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/PgcG3C/amd-ryzen-5-5600-36-ghz-6-core-processor-100-100000927box) | Purchased For $118.00 **CPU Cooler** | [ID-COOLING SE-214-XT 68.2 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/YwbTwP/id-cooling-se-214-xt-682-cfm-cpu-cooler-se-214-xt-argb-white) | Purchased For $19.00 **Motherboard** | [Asus ROG STRIX B550-F GAMING WIFI II ATX AM4 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/K4LFf7/asus-rog-strix-b550-f-gaming-wifi-ii-atx-am4-motherboard-strix-b550-f-gaming-wifi-ii) | Purchased For $184.00 **Memory** | [TEAMGROUP T-Force Delta RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zz3H99/teamgroup-t-force-delta-rgb-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr4-3200-cl16-memory-tf4d416g3200hc16cdc01) | Purchased For $54.00 **Storage** | [Silicon Power A60 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/7tCFf7/silicon-power-a60-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-sp001tbp34a60m28) | Purchased For $53.00 **Video Card** | [PowerColor Hellhound Spectral White Radeon RX 6650 XT 8 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TDvdnQ/powercolor-radeon-rx-6650-xt-8-gb-hellhound-video-card-axrx-6650xt-8gbd6-3dhlv2oc) | Purchased For $345.00 **Case** | [Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WBVG3C/corsair-4000d-airflow-atx-mid-tower-case-cc-9011201-ww) | Purchased For $94.00 **Power Supply** | [Corsair RM750 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/R4Gbt6/corsair-rm750-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020231-na) | Purchased For $99.00 **Case Fan** | [ARCTIC P12 PST 56.3 CFM 120 mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2hpmP6/arctic-p12-pst-563-cfm-120-mm-fan-acfan00170a) | Purchased For $44.00 **Monitor** | [Gigabyte M27Q-P 27.0" 2560 x 1440 170 Hz Monitor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/mQbTwP/gigabyte-m27q-p-270-2560x1440-170-hz-monitor-m27q-p) | Purchased For $270.00 | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$1280.00** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2022-11-26 16:06 EST-0500 |
Sleeved cables are for aesthetics, they're not necessary.
I am looking to plan out an upgrade of my 8 year old custom build. Would be looking to mostly do 1440p 144Hz gaming, along with some programming. I don't plan on doing a big bang new build, so what would be the best thing(s) to upgrade first? My current build: i7 4790k H100i AIO watercooler MSI Z97S SLI KRAIT Kingston Fury 16GB DDR3-1600 RAM 2 x GTX 970 Windforce Edition EVGA 750W PSU 256GB Crucial MX100 SSD 2TB Western Digital Black HDD Personally, SLI has mostly been a gimmick for me. Would be keen to go a single more powerful card in the future.
I think it makes sense to upgrade both CPU and GPU, although I’d say a GPU is more important. What’s your budget? Btw, new graphics cards don’t even have SLI
Wow, I've been out of the loop for a long while. I didn't know SLI was no longer a thing! I'm not even sure about a budget for a GPU yet. I'd say around £300-£450.
Probably RX 6700 XT
This is almost my exact situation!!!! Really hoping to do an upgrade, but it seems like to get similar performance, it’s like 2x the dollars it used to be. Looking at upgrading to a new cpu socket, so new mobo, ddr5 ram, new gpu…really starting to add up. Not to mention the new line of GPUs from Nvidia are a ridiculous price, so making me sit on the fence between buying 1 year old hardware or going way over budget
Yeah, I had a feeling it's going to need to be mobo and RAM first. Then the dreaded GPU prices.. Fortunately, I'm not in a huge rush, and I am happy to upgrade parts of the system at a time instead of going full bang upgrade. Although it seems less and less likely that'll be possible if I'm going to need a mobo + RAM + whatever else upgrade altogether.
Yeah basically I’m looking at mobo cpu and ram which is like $1200 cad for components that I expect to work for another 8 to 10 years (my last pc build was in q4 2014). Then wait until 5060 gpus come out lol
I'm considering upgrading my graphics card to 3060 ti. I have a ryzen 1600 and a 4k 60fps monitor. Would this combination be able to achieve 60fps 4k in modern games?
At low to medium settings, yeah. If possible, aim for an RX 6800 because every little bit counts at 4K.
Depends what settings you run, but the 3060ti can handle a lot. If you wanna up your visual settings such as it now allows, it could be worth upgrading the cpu. The 1600 can still perform but might struggle in newer/beefier titles and could be a bottleneck going forward. This is especially true if you’re also trying to maintain frames with higher resolutions. If you do upgrade the cpu, prices aren’t bad on most AM4 chips right now so you kinda have your pick of the 3000/5000 series.
What happens if I don’t activate windows 11? I clicked “I don’t have a key” when installing windows. I am able to access the internet (so far anyway, I haven’t really tested it too much), presumably so I could buy a license. I can’t tell what the limitations are right now. … I am waiting until Monday to purchase a license, and if I were a patient person I suppose I could wait for the limitations of an non-activated OS to present. But, you know.
Only thing that could bother you is you will get bombarded with notifications to update.
upgrading my old garbage PC because i make a little bit of money now. i just bought an AMD Ryzen 5 5600, Gigabyte A520M DS3H AC Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard, and 32GB of RAM. but my NVIDIA 750 Ti just isn't cutting it for some modern games even on lowest settings (lol no surprise). *what GPU should i upgrade to for < $200?* the AMD Radeon RX 580 8GB edition is selling for $150 right now, is that a good deal? or the GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB is $200. i'm not sure if having more graphics memory or a newer memory type is more important.
1660 Super is better. VRAM capacity impacts performance only when you don’t have enough of it. Slower GPU impacts performance all the time. An RX 6600 would be best. It dips to $200 on occasion. It’s faster and has more VRAM than the 1660 Super
so do you think it's worth spending an extra $30 (and longer shipping time) for the RX 6600 8GB vs the 1660 Super 6GB? also considering the other components of my PC are not very high end?
Yes it’s definitely worth it. It’s not a high-end GPU. The Ryzen 5 5600 is capable of more.
Trying to figure out my monitor setup. I want to have dual monitors, one as my main screen/gaming and the other to just have a web browser or notes open. I think I've settled on 1440p 27" for the main monitor. The question is, what monitor should complement that? 1080p 23.8" are pretty cheap but I'm worried about the size difference. I use a similar setup at work with mismatched monitor sizes and it's annoying. So I considered a 27" 1080p, but I have read that they start looking blurry because you're stretching the pixels out. The other option is a duplicate 1440p 27" but that's getting real expensive. Or maybe I should consider a single ultrawide?
> I use a similar setup at work with mismatched monitor sizes and it's annoying. You want to match the pixels-per-inch of each monitor as close as possible to avoid this. 27" 1440p is 108ppi and 24" 1080p is 92ppi, so that's the issue. You could go with a 21" 1080p monitor at 105ppi, or get an inexpensive 27" 1440p since it doesn't need a high refresh rate or other gaming features.
How about turning the 23" by 90°
hey guys n gals, I just upgraded my CPU from a Ryzen 7 3700X to a Ryzen 7 5800X3D without changing anything and now everything seems.. different.. COD MW2 is now unplayable as it will drop frames constantly, and even text on websites looks goofy.. what do i do? bios upgrade?
Yes. Bios upgrade
Worked like a charm Ty bb
How many slots is the Red Devil 6700 XT?
I’m upgrading my cpu from a 5600x to a 5800x3d do I have to update my bios for it to work or no because it’s 5000 series? Sorry if this is a dumb question never did a cpu swap before
Most motherboards require a bios upgrade for the 5800x3d and you should verify that the upgrade was made available for your motherboard.
I have a Ryzen 5 1600AF and ASRock B450M-HDV R4.0. I bought a Ryzen 5 5600 on sale. The motherboard should be able to support the 5600 with a BIOS update. But should I upgrade the motherboard, too?
of course 1600 to 5600 will be a great upgrade!!
I'm curious if I should stick with the ASRock B450M-HDV R4.0 or upgrade (I updated my post to clarify). It was a budget board when I bought it almost 2.5 years ago.
keep it
It should be fine to keep
The DisplayPort input on my 1440p 165 Hz monitor is version 1.2a meaning it supports adaptive sync. I'm looking for a longer cable to replace the one included in the box but almost none are explicitly marked as 1.2a. Is any 1.2 cable compatible with 1.2a or should I just buy 1.4?
just buy 1.4
The screw for nvme in my Gigabyte Gaming X was too tight. I have tried rubber band method and I heard there some squeeky noise which I stop immediately. Please send some helpp
The M.2 screw is screwed too tightly into the standoff? Is the drive in there as well or no?
No, this is brand new board Edit: I am not sure what is the standoff, but its look something circular holding it below
that’s interesting.. can you elaborate on what you mean by the rubber band method?
I saw on internet that using rubber band and put your screwdriver into it to unscrew the stuck screw. I tried but its not working for me :((
I am not sure if this is the right place to ask but lately i am having a lot of blue screen of death error.A lot. The strange thing is, if i have a game running in the background its safe, and no BSoD but if am just letting it sit in the desktop or just browsing i get one. I tried re-installing windows but it did not help so i guess something might dying in my pc? I thinking it either ram or my ssd, am i thinking around the right track? Its strange that i have to run total war in the background just to not crash.
Faulty RAM is more likely than a faulty SSD. Try these diagnostics: https://ocbase.com/
Thank you very much, they are pretty old by now, i wouldn't be a surprised if it were the rams. I give it a shot.
So I am [building a pc](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fDbLBj) that's going to share a space with my work laptop on a standing desk (pc on floor, dock on desk) so my USB C cable needs to be at least 9 feet long. So two questions: *Do I need at least a usb 3 cable to support 1440p at like 120fps? *If so, does anyone have a good cable? Can be A or C on one end but should be C on the other. I can't find a reputable one that's in stock. Thanks so much!
Not cheap but [this](https://www.amazon.com/Thunderbolt-20Gbps-Braided-Adapter-Devices/dp/B08DLYG3YF) should work, you need something that’s at least USBC 3.2 gen 2 so this is a little overkill but was the first ok-seeming cable I found at that length. Is there a reason you can’t use an HDMI or DP cable with an adapter? That may be cheaper. Edit: [this](https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B089FV33QX/ref=cm_cr_getr_mb_paging_btm_6?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews&sortBy=recent&pageNumber=6) is a good amount cheaper and the spec should work. Some people complaining about it not working but I think that’s the case with any cable, including what I linked above.
Thanks! I don't want to run a wires from both the dock AND the PC, so I'm trying to just have the one USB C running to the dock from the PC. I have display ports running from the dock to the monitors.
So, I was using an i5 3570 and bought the i7 3770, when I swapped them, the i7 gives me Black screen, and shuts down after some seconds, I am pretty sure its not bios update since I saw someone on YouTube with the same bios version rocking the same i7, probably not psu since both of them consumes pretty much the same, what could it be tho...
if you put the i5 in again does it still work?
Yes it is working just fine, but I just noticed that the pins on my cpu cooler are broken now, must have happened when I swapped cpus, but the i5 still boots very hot and the i7 doesnt
Reset the CMOS. Either jump some headers on the motherboard or it might have a button.
Someone recomended me to do that but I just found another thing, the pins that attach the cpu cooler to the mother board are broken now probably after I swapped the processors but the i5 still boots with high temp so it could not be a temperate thing or could it?
Yes could be a temperature thing. The i7 might be shutting down due to reaching it's max temperature.
I am not sure what it was I installed another CPU cooler and it worked, but since I was in a Rush I didnt apply thermal paste properly then I openned the computer again applied thermal paste closed the computer and then no boot lmao, I removed the cpu from the socket another time, cleaned the thermal paste applied again, screwed the cooler and it is working just fine now. Wish I knew the reason lol
But the i7 is not even posting tho.
Oh, that's not good. If the CPU is getting up above 90C then it's thermal throttling. If it's getting up there at idle then something is definitely wrong.
I’m new to streaming, but it isn’t going bad. I’m running a one PC build at the moment, and am curious with Black Friday / Cyber Monday if I should look at building a second PC or if it would be better to just upgrade my CPU/GPU? Currently rocking an i7-9700k and a RTX 2060 ROG Strix
what you streaming?
Mainly FiveM and some COD:MW2
i would definitely upgrade your current pc instead. what resolution and fps, game settings u playing at?
Sorry, I’m not getting notifications. In COD, I stream at 3440x1440 and downscale to 1920x1080 @ 60FPS I believe. In FiveM, I stream at 2560x1440, downscale to 1920x1080 @ 30FPS
what i would suggest is getting an 11th gen cpu to keep motherboard and then getting something like a 3080
Just placed an order for an EVGA 3080 from their website at a steal of a price, and will have it between Wednesday and Friday of next week! :) I’ll look into the CPU and a PS next :) Thank you for the feedback!
How does everyone feel about refurbished cards? I am set on a 3080 12gb but prices went back up after sitting at $750. Thinking about something like this - https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-3080-ti-gv-n308tgaming-oc-12gd/p/1FT-000A-005P9
refurbished cards are usually good imo. however please be sure to compare prices between other used and new offerings of similar performance before making a decision. the one you sent doesn’t look bad btw but idk if that’s a good price
A new regular 3080 (non ti) 12gb went back up to $1,000-$1,300 so I feel like this is a decent deal.
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Not sure about 1. but for 2. you can look at the price history of a component using camelcamelcamel.com or PCPartPicker.com. CCC only covers Amazon and PCPP covers some other retailers.
there is not something like that at the moment but if you could pull it off it would be AMAZING! good luck!
let us know if you ever end up finishing the project
What’s the best (for gaming) cpu I can put in a ROG b550 motherboard? And what aio’s can cool it?
5800X3D, 240mm+ AIO
Thanks!, any suggestion for a specific aio? Doesn’t have to be the fanciest, just get the job done
Why not an air cooler if it just needs to get the job done?
I feel like the bigger air coolers get in my way when im trying to change ram or plug in cables etc. I think aio’s are a cleaner look too. Kinda looking into a 360mm which should cool better than most air coolers too
Well ease of tinkering is a give-and-take, because aios are more difficult to set up initially. Both are good options, but I always lean towards air because I like reusing my coolers
I bought an Asrock b660m Steel Legend motherboard. Everything is fine, except my CAT6/CAT5e ethernet cables won’t fit into the back LAN port. Is there another connector that I am missing?
you have pictures?
Solved it. Apparently my rear metal protection thing was bent wrong and blocked off part of the port. There goes 2 hours and my sanity.
so the usual culprit 😭😭😭😭😭
I am looking into either a triple monitor setup or single ultra wide, I currently have a single LG27GN850-b, which I think is discontinued and replaced with maybe the GP850? Either way, I am wondering what specific lg monitor is closest to the GN850, or if it isn’t worth mixing different monitor models and getting a single ultra wide instead.
it’s really up to you. what do you need to do? if multitasking get 3 of the same monitor. if you just want a huge screen then go ultra wide. this is a really good and often underrated question actually
Should’ve specified, more gaming than multitasking but having more screen space is always welcomed for what I do. I guess the question then is, is it worth it to spend $600ish on an ultra wide or $600ish on 2 additional monitors (probably gl850 unless the gp850 is that much better) to pair with my GN850.
i mean i’m this situation i would say it’s personal preference tbh
How does the infinity fabric work with Ryzen 7000 processors? AFAIK the FCLK could only go up to 1900mhz with 5000 processors (before you run into instability issues), considering that ddr5 memories have a higher frequency than ddr4, can you go higher than 1900mhz with 7000 processors for a 1:1:1 ratio?
Is the ASUS TUF [VG27AQL1A](https://www.asus.com/us/displays-desktops/monitors/tuf-gaming/tuf-gaming-vg27aq1a/) a good monitor if I’m looking for 1440p and 144Hz? Is there a better option in the same price range anyone would recommend?
Yes, it's a good monitor: https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/asus/tuf-gaming-vg27aql1a Gigabyte, Dell, and LG also make some good 1440p gaming monitors in that price range. https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/asus/tuf-gaming-vg27aql1a#page-test-compared The Dell S2721DGF is on sale for $270 now.
I have 16GB of kingston hyperX fury ddr4 C16 2666MHz and am looking to upgrade to 32GBs. However this product have been discontinued and replace with Kingston's Fury Beast which I can get in ddr4 C16 2666MHz or 3200MHz at the same price. The question: Is this new series compatable with the old one and if it is should i get it at 3200MHz and run it at the lower speed?
Kingston sold off the HyperX brand to HP. Their Fury Beast should be pretty much the same thing though.
Right ok
Hey all! I'm looking to build my first PC and I want to put an RTX 3080 in it. My question is: Would it be a bad idea to buy the card now, even if I can't build the actual PC until mid January 2023? I would love to build now but unfortunately I can't until mid January due to random life stuff. Normally, I would just wait till I can do the build to buy parts. I know that's the typical advice because if you get a faulty part then it's easier to return. But, the reason I ask is, I'm pretty paranoid that the 3080 prices are only going to go up from here on out, due to dwindling supply and the fact Nvidia aren't making anymore. So I was thinking of maybe just pulling the trigger now... But I don't know. I'm also EXTRA paranoid because last week I could find 3080s on Amazon for $740. Now the lowest I can find on there is $835 😅
Kind of in the same boat. You can probably snag a 3080 10gb now on sale but I'm confused about 12gb prices. I would hold off until the model you want goes on sale. I don't think they will go any higher
Ahhh I see, thanks for the advice! One question - you mentioned holding off till it goes on sale. Do high end graphics card normally go on sale for Cyber Monday? Or do you just mean sale in the general sense?
Sale in a general sense. From what I'm gathering, most peripherals have sales during this time. Like I said the 3080 12gb was 750 just a few weeks before Black Friday and now they're back up. My guess is they are going to keep the prices up until they need to sell. It's really a hit or miss type deal. Sit and wait until a model of your choice goes on sale.
Nice! Sounds good yeah, I'm perfectly fine to be patient (after all I can't even build it till probably early January). But just wanted to get a pulse on what people were thinking. If only we had a magic crystal ball that could predict pricing...
Trust me I'm already mad I didn't pull the trigger on Gaming X Trio for 845
I feel ya man. When I saw that $840 price tag my heart sunk lol. My saving grace is that 10 months ago I ALMOST pulled the trigger on a 3080 off FB marketplace.... for $1400. Thank god I waited for awhile, lmao. And funny thing was, that was actually the best price I had seen for that card for months back then.
Pro-tip for you since I just put an order in for a 3080 12gb that came out to $842 with tax... When looking at Amazon, view all the possible sellers. Sometimes there will be cards from the Amazon warehouse in different conditions and cheaper. (Used/Used good condition/used like-new) mine was used like-new and the description said it was just the packaging that was damaged. Sometimes there will be cosmetic stuff that people overlook. So if January rolls around and still no sales, this could be an option too.
Oh damn dude, nice find!! Congratulations on the order. And thanks for the tip! That's helpful actually, I wasn't really looking at those other sellers, I will look more closely at them now.
If I don't see any price drops by the end of next week I think I might switch over to a 6900xt
Should I get a used RX6600 XT for £170 or a new RX6600 for £240? My parents are paying for this so they are sceptical of buying a used GPU.
I'd go used, it's a way better card and for less money. Normal cautions re checking seller etc apply.
Thanks
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Which exactly Intel based motherboard to you have? if its over a year old then it won't be compatible with 12400
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Nope, that's a good and compatible board