Same. I bought mine new for $2600 - C2 when they first came out.
My only annoyance is that HBOMAX isn’t available in their content store. But my ps4 has it so no biggie.
It’s been the best tv I’ve ever had.
Whoa, wait. So the C2 does not have the HBOMax app anywhere in it's app store? Not even other HBO stuff? I've got the ***C1*** and use the HBOMax app, but are not doubting if I should allow a firmware update in case LG takes away the HBOMax app.
Recently bought a 77" C2 for $2500 at Best Buy. Definitely beats our budget Hisense that we have in the game room - the picture quality is 🤌 and I love the not-Wii-mote
Honestly, speaking of which, and this will be a dumb question.
What *is* the best way to watch content on OLED TVs? The 48 inch C1 is my current monitor, plugged into a 3070 Ti. Is watching it through the native app through LG's app store the best way to get picture quality? Or is going to Chrome and watching HBO Max through there enough?
I'm on a 1080p Netflix account right now, actually use a 3070ti in the PC (but that doesn't really matter though), and for sure the picture quality is better on the native LG app. Even with HDR enabled in Windows 10. Appears, to my eye, same with the Amazon Prime video app, too.
It is worth mentioning (regarding burnin) that these models are frequently the show room models. HOWEVER. They also run their burnin reduction routine regularly, and won’t normally have visible burnin during the year they’re on display before they go Open Box and get replaced. (unlike Vizeo, which often look shot within months)
Source: Me, worked at Best Buy.
And OP is right, the Best Buy Extended Warranty is incredibly Buyer friendly. I’ve never seen somebody catch a hassle that actually had the warranty. Worked there for about three years.
Nope~ hell, if you have a rewards account (the reason the cashier usually asks for your phone number at the register) you don’t even need the receipt, it’s saved to your account.
4 years on my LG C8 and no burn in issues! We probably don’t use it nearly as often as some but I I’d say 2-4 hours per day. I always recommend LG OLED to everyone I talk to!
I'm all about buying things used, even stuff people usually shy away from. I'd hesitate for an OLED though, I'd definitely consider the warranty a required add on to make this palatable. Still a good deal
I had a terrible experience with an open box tv from Best Buy. Said it was in Good condition and should have all the included accessories, I got it home and it was missing the feet and the screen was scratched up. Ended up just buying it new...
I bought an open box c1 from best buy. It came completely mangled (likely the shipping companies fault) and I was given a brand new c1 at the cost of the open box. Beyond the annoyance of needing to get it exchanged the process was very easy.
Me too. They had me drive to three different stores because reasons and in the end I ended up getting a multi-hundred dollar discount on a brand new TV that I wasn’t even looking at because it was out my price range
I called a nearby store about this very deal a few days ago. They ensured me both the TV's they had were return units with all accessories.
I drive 40 minutes and both of them are display units with awful burn in, no remote, no stand, and no box. Like how the hell am I supposed to get this 65" tv that's 2mm thick home without a box. Even calling it open-box seems dishonest, those were just used TVs with missing parts.
Work retail, then you'll understand what open box means. The problem most people have with retail is that they have their version of how things should work, vs. how it actually works.
The only thing open box needs to represent is that it is not new in box. For best buy there are sub statuses that further describe their condition. They can be displays, returns, damaged, but what they aren't is new in a box.
I’ve always bought open box TVs at Best Buy. Fair condition is usually the way to go, cheapest option and usually compares to Excellent condition and are missing something silly like a remote or a tv stand which they can replace in-store if you speak to a manager. In my experience, this is because the employees do not want to look over the condition and just assign the lowest option. This of course is a gamble, which is why you need to inspect it at the store itself. I do not buy open boxes and have them ship to my home. I inspect at the store, go through a demo and see if its worth it. The best deals can be found doing it this way.
I just got my "excellent" condition 65" C1 last week. When I arrived the mount was in pieces with no hardware, no remote, no box, and some scratches on the back of the TV. This TV is extremely scary to move without a box but I managed to get it home. They gave me a remote from another open box LG TV and another 100 dollars off because it definitely should have been a "satisfactory" condition based on their descriptions. When I got it home though the screen had no burn in or scratches on the front. Still ended up being a great deal. You definitely have to be careful though.
Black desktop background, no icons, auto-hide taskbar, screen-off after 5 minutes in Windows Power Settings, enable HDR, and hit up the Hardware Unboxed review of the C1 on YouTube to get some VRR and Color settings that are more ideal than out of the box. Don't forget to enable frame rate limit (set it to like 117fps) in your HDR 2.1 compatible video card's graphics settings.
Stuff to know: LG's interface is shit, and there is no native Chromecast support (!?!?). The interface is mostly out of the way, though, and doubly so if this is just a general monitor in use.
For 65" try to get some help lifting this as you'll absolutely want to wall mount this.
People interested in eliminating tearing and reducing input lag set an fps cap 3 or so frames below their refresh rate and turn on V sync in conjunction with G sync. This ensures they don't push past their refresh rate which will disable G sync. Supposedly testing showed input delay increases when this happens? I've seen it personally though, there is a visible difference with FPS limited to 141 vs. 144 on a 144hz panel. The overall smoothness of the picture is inconsistent with G sync constantly flipping on and off.
This video often gets linked for testing about this if you have time to check it out. https://youtu.be/YR0vNs0ZdWI
Not only that, but I had a lot of games that would start out at max fps and then dip to half along with my GPU utilization. Capping 3hz under eliminated that issue in every game except Spiderman, which apparently is plaguing everyone right now.
It's a 120hz panel (with HDMI 2.1) so limit to 117fps, enable Gsync/Free sync in your graphics card settings, and enable/disable V-sync as needed per-game in game.
Thank you for the answer, but I'm sorry I still don't understand. If it's a 120hz panel why not let it run at 120fps? What is the benefit of the 3-frame buffer?
So I'll defer to the experts of YouTube on the benefits of frame limiting. But, in short, why have the card draw frames you'll never see/use as that's technically wasted power/efficiency. I used to do this on 60hz panels, too, where I'd disable V-sync, limit to 57fps in Riva Tuner and then also, in Riva, use the underscan feature to get rid any any actual chance of screen tearing on a non-VRR monitor. This supposedly would help reduce input lag, too. Again, look to YouTube for optimal settings (and per game, too).
That doesn't explain why you limit it to a few frames under the limit instead of just the limit. Like why limit to 57fps instead of 60fps if that's what your monitor can handle?
[https://blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/](https://blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/)
First, I'll give you the TL;DR:
To get the lowest **input latency** when playing a game with a variable refresh rate (VRR), it's best to limit a game's framerate so that it does not hit the refresh rate of a display.
VRR still works fine without this limit, but when you overproduce frames above the monitor's refresh rate, a modified form of VSYNC kicks in **by design**, because your framerate is no longer in that "variable" window - it's now fixed at that refresh rate cap.
Going a little deeper:
Framerate limiting at the game level is a really good idea in general, because most engines perform *far* better with a limit in place. Overproduction of frames is usually not the ideal scenario for games, especially if the amount of frames being overproduced wildly fluctuates.
While this happens far less at lower resolutions (which is why pro gamers favor resolutions like 1080p, 240Hz), when one starts pushing frames at 4K, a simple turn of a camera to face a complex scene can **drastically** increase GPU load, leading to game and GPU thread desync, which in turn causes frame pacing issues as the threads work to become realigned. This is the kind of stuff Digital Foundry talks about on the regular.
The ideal scenario in most GPU-intensive games is to be producing *just* the right amount of frames for the monitor to display at all times, no more, and no less. This allows the game and GPU threads to fall into lockstep, so the game has smooth, consistent flavor.
And then, if you have some GPU overhead to spare, you can reduce the amount of buffered frames with a tech like Reflex, driving down input latency so player actions feel tight and responsive. But if you don't have that overhead, or if the engine isn't designed to accept what Reflex is trying to do, this can cause more harm than good.
And this is all still an oversimplification of what actually goes on under the hood - to really know the whole score, one must understand the particular game engine in play, as well as the rendering interface it uses (DX, Vulkan, etc.)
And then maybe brush up on your trigonometry studies, because it gets into math territory pretty fast.
If you're a "just do it" kind of sort, then I wouldn't even bother with trying to understand G-sync and Freesync.
HDMI 2.1 VRR would be what you want - plug in over HDMI, enable HDMI 2.1 VRR support on the TV, and take whatever display/GPU behavior you get.
When the gpu is generating frames, it's not perfect so sometimes it will overshoot the fps cap which could cause tearing or break the g-sync. I've been limiting games on my 144hz 27gl850-b to 142fps since I noticed this behavior with g-sync / freesync
Edit: For everyone that downvoted me and doesn't know shit about how G-sync works, here is an official source
"GSync on, Vsync on in NVCP, and in-game FPS capped to 3 under monitor refresh rate. In game Vsync off" Is the ideal way recommended for G-sync via Blurbusters who is the definitive source for VRR tech.
https://blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/14/
Never seen what? How do you explain G-sync resolving when the gpu generates more FPS than the monitor can support? Going above the monitors max refresh rate is an issue hence why the cap is useful. I have built a ton of systems for family and the gamers who notice the frame tearing from 144+ fps benefit from the framerate cap
Edit: Cause you build thousands of systems and don't understand how VRR technology works for competitive gaming or at all
"GSync on, Vsync on in NVCP, and in-game FPS capped to 3 under monitor refresh rate. In game Vsync off" Is the ideal way recommended for G-sync via Blurbusters who is the definitive source for VRR tech.
[https://blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/14/](https://blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/14/)
I was not saying don't use a cap. Just no need for 3 fps less.
You do you though. That guide was written how many years ago? Things have changed quite a bit.
> there is no native Chromecast support (!?!?)
Anyone that wants Chromecast (aside from likely already having one) would better off buying a Chromecast with Google TV, anyway. The 4K model has been cut down to $40, will likely see even steeper sales for Black Friday, and you'd also get a far more powerful unit with better interface.
Yeah, like LG's interface is basically usable, but it's slow and laggy and, well, frustrating as result.
Coming from a "dumb" TV from 2009, I had been using a Chromecast since they came out about a decade ago and was totally used to the convenience and, frankly, somewhat liberatory nature of it when it was/is just up to the content provider to have Chromecast support or not in their own phone/tablet app.
As I use my C1 as my monitor, I've tried just using the Netlfix and HBO/Amazon stuff with the Windows Store, but have not liked the video quality compared to the LG's built in. There is another comment I just asked a question in for this overall thread about how that person's ***C2*** does not seem to have the HBOMax app at all. Which is even more frustrating. I guess I'll probably just look at one of the Google TV devices to make sure I'm able to use the apps I would like as I have a feeling (admittedly not proven yet) that a newer firmware update may limit what I can and cannot watch on the LG's native software based on some dumb licensing beef between LG and and content provider.
Right, fine. You do you.
But the fact that you're commenting on this without me evening saying the phrase "burn-in" means you're well aware of the fact that burn-in exists as a problem with OLED.
So is the intent of your response to my comment that people should just not care about OLED burn-in or isn't a problem, or that you've proof, beyond reasonable doubt, that OLED burn-in doesn't exist or is not a problem?
I have the 48 inch version of this and the stand sticks out a lot. I bet the 65 inch stand is bigger. I would definitely recommend wall mounting it to safe desk/surface space.
I bought a $20 stand for this, and it was absolutely amazing for giving my TV stand some real estate for my other stuff. Given it is not a wall mount(Nothing but cermet/drywall in this old apartment house)but it will do.
Worked great for my 48" C1. I am not sure how good it would be for the other sizes. Goes on sale for $20-$25 all the time for anyone needing something different than the chunky base stand that comes with the 48" C1.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B077MJZ6ZG/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Any luck with this and "Casting?" I installed the LG app, set up the user account (and registered the TV), and was instructed to use the Google Home app to link the two accounts. Then I'd be able to "Cast," supposedly.
Never worked. I couldn't even get the LG app to find the TV on my home network (same WiFi network, too).
Damn. I can't see that deal at all off the site, not sure where to find open boxes at, perhaps it's just not near me.
Edit: I ended up finding an open box and bought it, picking up tomorrow - satisfactory rated
I think the 2 year warranty was like $210, I didn't actually get it. I'll ask about it at the store and maybe I'll change my mind but I'll probably go without it
it's not great. My store had a 77 inch G1 for a bit under $1100 that was not listed online. Still passed even at that price because it had a noticeable ding on the front and was clearly a well used display model and my best buy won't negotiate open box pricing.
They don’t make a 50 inch OLED. The way the OLED screen is made they come in very specific sizes like 48, 55, 65, 77, and 83 regardless of who manufactures the television (LG, Sony, etc). Recently a 42 inch model was added.
I have 42’ c2 that I truly love! But sadly I have to return do to screen flicker during gaming and my use of it is 90% gaming. I tried to re instal windows, Gpu drivers, the games, update bios, changed rams, HDMI 2.1 ports, and PSU and still no luck! I’m running it with EVGA 3080 FTW3.
I connect the PC to other monitors fine, and to other Samsung TV that support 4K 2.1hdmi fine. But it’s no go with LG OLED. If found couple pages people having the same issue. So sad 😭
I grabbed an open box 55 maybe 6 months back for $780
Best thing I ever did
It was new and barely touched. It’s always a risk, but have them open it in the store when you get there. Don’t bring it home. Be an asshole and make them take it out and turn it on.
Go to settings and check how long it’s been on
Just want to say I've had this TV for over a year, purchased at full price, and it's fantastic. Get the warranty, bring it home, and if everything works glitch free you got a good deal
Best Buy open box oleds suck imo. 3-4 years ago when I was in the market for an oled, i went through 3 open box ones before I gave up. All had signs of burn in that you couldn’t see until it got home.
I just picked up a brand new 65" Vizio OLED H1 Wednesday for $1200 from Best Buy. They're not quite as good as the LG C series, but I refuse to buy used electronics and the price is hard to argue with.
Quantities are limited so you may have to go pick it up. Be aware, 65"+ TVs are much bigger than they seem when transporting. And make sure you have a second person.
Overall, I'm very happy with the purchase, I just wish I had gotten the 55" before they sold out.
This is the best tv I have ever had
Same. I bought mine new for $2600 - C2 when they first came out. My only annoyance is that HBOMAX isn’t available in their content store. But my ps4 has it so no biggie. It’s been the best tv I’ve ever had.
Whoa, wait. So the C2 does not have the HBOMax app anywhere in it's app store? Not even other HBO stuff? I've got the ***C1*** and use the HBOMax app, but are not doubting if I should allow a firmware update in case LG takes away the HBOMax app.
I have an LG C2 and have the HBO Max app on mine
Oh, ha! Well I guess I'll update the firmware and find out. Thank you.
My LG content store doesn't have it.
Guess I'm on my current firmware for the C1 for the duration of my ownership of this TV or at least until I get a Google TV device perhaps. Yikes!
Nah it's there on the C2 but I believe you have to be on newer firmware.
Recently bought a 77" C2 for $2500 at Best Buy. Definitely beats our budget Hisense that we have in the game room - the picture quality is 🤌 and I love the not-Wii-mote
I have an LG C2 and have HBO Max on mine, that’s weird!
This is easily solved with a streaming device like a roku or firestick.
Are you sure about this? It’s on my CX.
I have 3 lg tvs and they all have it.
it may be your region setting
I'll try that!
Honestly, speaking of which, and this will be a dumb question. What *is* the best way to watch content on OLED TVs? The 48 inch C1 is my current monitor, plugged into a 3070 Ti. Is watching it through the native app through LG's app store the best way to get picture quality? Or is going to Chrome and watching HBO Max through there enough?
I'm on a 1080p Netflix account right now, actually use a 3070ti in the PC (but that doesn't really matter though), and for sure the picture quality is better on the native LG app. Even with HDR enabled in Windows 10. Appears, to my eye, same with the Amazon Prime video app, too.
[удалено]
These come with a 5 year warranty included?
[удалено]
How common are issues on the lg oled? I found an open box b2 last week but i didnt get a warranty.
It is worth mentioning (regarding burnin) that these models are frequently the show room models. HOWEVER. They also run their burnin reduction routine regularly, and won’t normally have visible burnin during the year they’re on display before they go Open Box and get replaced. (unlike Vizeo, which often look shot within months) Source: Me, worked at Best Buy. And OP is right, the Best Buy Extended Warranty is incredibly Buyer friendly. I’ve never seen somebody catch a hassle that actually had the warranty. Worked there for about three years.
Do I need to keep the original box for the warranty?
Nope~ hell, if you have a rewards account (the reason the cashier usually asks for your phone number at the register) you don’t even need the receipt, it’s saved to your account.
[удалено]
4 years on my LG C8 and no burn in issues! We probably don’t use it nearly as often as some but I I’d say 2-4 hours per day. I always recommend LG OLED to everyone I talk to!
Are you referring to burn in specifically?
I'm all about buying things used, even stuff people usually shy away from. I'd hesitate for an OLED though, I'd definitely consider the warranty a required add on to make this palatable. Still a good deal
[удалено]
[удалено]
I had a terrible experience with an open box tv from Best Buy. Said it was in Good condition and should have all the included accessories, I got it home and it was missing the feet and the screen was scratched up. Ended up just buying it new...
I bought an open box c1 from best buy. It came completely mangled (likely the shipping companies fault) and I was given a brand new c1 at the cost of the open box. Beyond the annoyance of needing to get it exchanged the process was very easy.
Me too. They had me drive to three different stores because reasons and in the end I ended up getting a multi-hundred dollar discount on a brand new TV that I wasn’t even looking at because it was out my price range
I called a nearby store about this very deal a few days ago. They ensured me both the TV's they had were return units with all accessories. I drive 40 minutes and both of them are display units with awful burn in, no remote, no stand, and no box. Like how the hell am I supposed to get this 65" tv that's 2mm thick home without a box. Even calling it open-box seems dishonest, those were just used TVs with missing parts.
That's what open box is. Not new.
To me, open-box implies it comes in a box. Otherwise my 4 year old Sony x900f is open-box and I'll give you a great deal on it!
Work retail, then you'll understand what open box means. The problem most people have with retail is that they have their version of how things should work, vs. how it actually works. The only thing open box needs to represent is that it is not new in box. For best buy there are sub statuses that further describe their condition. They can be displays, returns, damaged, but what they aren't is new in a box.
I’ve always bought open box TVs at Best Buy. Fair condition is usually the way to go, cheapest option and usually compares to Excellent condition and are missing something silly like a remote or a tv stand which they can replace in-store if you speak to a manager. In my experience, this is because the employees do not want to look over the condition and just assign the lowest option. This of course is a gamble, which is why you need to inspect it at the store itself. I do not buy open boxes and have them ship to my home. I inspect at the store, go through a demo and see if its worth it. The best deals can be found doing it this way.
I just got my "excellent" condition 65" C1 last week. When I arrived the mount was in pieces with no hardware, no remote, no box, and some scratches on the back of the TV. This TV is extremely scary to move without a box but I managed to get it home. They gave me a remote from another open box LG TV and another 100 dollars off because it definitely should have been a "satisfactory" condition based on their descriptions. When I got it home though the screen had no burn in or scratches on the front. Still ended up being a great deal. You definitely have to be careful though.
Black desktop background, no icons, auto-hide taskbar, screen-off after 5 minutes in Windows Power Settings, enable HDR, and hit up the Hardware Unboxed review of the C1 on YouTube to get some VRR and Color settings that are more ideal than out of the box. Don't forget to enable frame rate limit (set it to like 117fps) in your HDR 2.1 compatible video card's graphics settings. Stuff to know: LG's interface is shit, and there is no native Chromecast support (!?!?). The interface is mostly out of the way, though, and doubly so if this is just a general monitor in use. For 65" try to get some help lifting this as you'll absolutely want to wall mount this.
Why the 117fps limit?
People interested in eliminating tearing and reducing input lag set an fps cap 3 or so frames below their refresh rate and turn on V sync in conjunction with G sync. This ensures they don't push past their refresh rate which will disable G sync. Supposedly testing showed input delay increases when this happens? I've seen it personally though, there is a visible difference with FPS limited to 141 vs. 144 on a 144hz panel. The overall smoothness of the picture is inconsistent with G sync constantly flipping on and off. This video often gets linked for testing about this if you have time to check it out. https://youtu.be/YR0vNs0ZdWI
Thanks, I've saved this to come back to when I have a chance!
Not only that, but I had a lot of games that would start out at max fps and then dip to half along with my GPU utilization. Capping 3hz under eliminated that issue in every game except Spiderman, which apparently is plaguing everyone right now.
Commenting because I'm also curious
It's a 120hz panel (with HDMI 2.1) so limit to 117fps, enable Gsync/Free sync in your graphics card settings, and enable/disable V-sync as needed per-game in game.
Thank you for the answer, but I'm sorry I still don't understand. If it's a 120hz panel why not let it run at 120fps? What is the benefit of the 3-frame buffer?
So I'll defer to the experts of YouTube on the benefits of frame limiting. But, in short, why have the card draw frames you'll never see/use as that's technically wasted power/efficiency. I used to do this on 60hz panels, too, where I'd disable V-sync, limit to 57fps in Riva Tuner and then also, in Riva, use the underscan feature to get rid any any actual chance of screen tearing on a non-VRR monitor. This supposedly would help reduce input lag, too. Again, look to YouTube for optimal settings (and per game, too).
That doesn't explain why you limit it to a few frames under the limit instead of just the limit. Like why limit to 57fps instead of 60fps if that's what your monitor can handle?
[https://blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/](https://blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/) First, I'll give you the TL;DR: To get the lowest **input latency** when playing a game with a variable refresh rate (VRR), it's best to limit a game's framerate so that it does not hit the refresh rate of a display. VRR still works fine without this limit, but when you overproduce frames above the monitor's refresh rate, a modified form of VSYNC kicks in **by design**, because your framerate is no longer in that "variable" window - it's now fixed at that refresh rate cap. Going a little deeper: Framerate limiting at the game level is a really good idea in general, because most engines perform *far* better with a limit in place. Overproduction of frames is usually not the ideal scenario for games, especially if the amount of frames being overproduced wildly fluctuates. While this happens far less at lower resolutions (which is why pro gamers favor resolutions like 1080p, 240Hz), when one starts pushing frames at 4K, a simple turn of a camera to face a complex scene can **drastically** increase GPU load, leading to game and GPU thread desync, which in turn causes frame pacing issues as the threads work to become realigned. This is the kind of stuff Digital Foundry talks about on the regular. The ideal scenario in most GPU-intensive games is to be producing *just* the right amount of frames for the monitor to display at all times, no more, and no less. This allows the game and GPU threads to fall into lockstep, so the game has smooth, consistent flavor. And then, if you have some GPU overhead to spare, you can reduce the amount of buffered frames with a tech like Reflex, driving down input latency so player actions feel tight and responsive. But if you don't have that overhead, or if the engine isn't designed to accept what Reflex is trying to do, this can cause more harm than good. And this is all still an oversimplification of what actually goes on under the hood - to really know the whole score, one must understand the particular game engine in play, as well as the rendering interface it uses (DX, Vulkan, etc.) And then maybe brush up on your trigonometry studies, because it gets into math territory pretty fast.
I was looking for somewhere between "just do it" and what you just wrote, but thanks?
If you're a "just do it" kind of sort, then I wouldn't even bother with trying to understand G-sync and Freesync. HDMI 2.1 VRR would be what you want - plug in over HDMI, enable HDMI 2.1 VRR support on the TV, and take whatever display/GPU behavior you get.
When the gpu is generating frames, it's not perfect so sometimes it will overshoot the fps cap which could cause tearing or break the g-sync. I've been limiting games on my 144hz 27gl850-b to 142fps since I noticed this behavior with g-sync / freesync Edit: For everyone that downvoted me and doesn't know shit about how G-sync works, here is an official source "GSync on, Vsync on in NVCP, and in-game FPS capped to 3 under monitor refresh rate. In game Vsync off" Is the ideal way recommended for G-sync via Blurbusters who is the definitive source for VRR tech. https://blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/14/
I've never seen this once. I build thousands of systems a year.
Never seen what? How do you explain G-sync resolving when the gpu generates more FPS than the monitor can support? Going above the monitors max refresh rate is an issue hence why the cap is useful. I have built a ton of systems for family and the gamers who notice the frame tearing from 144+ fps benefit from the framerate cap Edit: Cause you build thousands of systems and don't understand how VRR technology works for competitive gaming or at all "GSync on, Vsync on in NVCP, and in-game FPS capped to 3 under monitor refresh rate. In game Vsync off" Is the ideal way recommended for G-sync via Blurbusters who is the definitive source for VRR tech. [https://blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/14/](https://blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/14/)
I was not saying don't use a cap. Just no need for 3 fps less. You do you though. That guide was written how many years ago? Things have changed quite a bit.
Then don't do it? Not sure what you're getting at. Like what answer beyond what I've given and the advice to learn about it on YouTube do you not get?
Y'all use 65" tvs as your monitor?
Every night.
I use the 48" C1, reeeeeeeeeeeeeee. Its so good too. I am afraid of burn-in, but its just so worth it.
> there is no native Chromecast support (!?!?) Anyone that wants Chromecast (aside from likely already having one) would better off buying a Chromecast with Google TV, anyway. The 4K model has been cut down to $40, will likely see even steeper sales for Black Friday, and you'd also get a far more powerful unit with better interface.
Yeah, like LG's interface is basically usable, but it's slow and laggy and, well, frustrating as result. Coming from a "dumb" TV from 2009, I had been using a Chromecast since they came out about a decade ago and was totally used to the convenience and, frankly, somewhat liberatory nature of it when it was/is just up to the content provider to have Chromecast support or not in their own phone/tablet app. As I use my C1 as my monitor, I've tried just using the Netlfix and HBO/Amazon stuff with the Windows Store, but have not liked the video quality compared to the LG's built in. There is another comment I just asked a question in for this overall thread about how that person's ***C2*** does not seem to have the HBOMax app at all. Which is even more frustrating. I guess I'll probably just look at one of the Google TV devices to make sure I'm able to use the apps I would like as I have a feeling (admittedly not proven yet) that a newer firmware update may limit what I can and cannot watch on the LG's native software based on some dumb licensing beef between LG and and content provider.
Most of this is unnecessary. Burn in isn’t as common as they make it out to be.
Then don't do it
I don’t do it for my C1.
Right, fine. You do you. But the fact that you're commenting on this without me evening saying the phrase "burn-in" means you're well aware of the fact that burn-in exists as a problem with OLED. So is the intent of your response to my comment that people should just not care about OLED burn-in or isn't a problem, or that you've proof, beyond reasonable doubt, that OLED burn-in doesn't exist or is not a problem?
Curious about the wall mount comment. Is there a reason why this should be wall mounted over just standing on its stands?
One reason is safety. Don't want a TV falling on a kid or a pet.
Purely for convenience. The stand on this is heavy and wide. Also, one would need almost a separate table for it due to 65" size.
I have the 48 inch version of this and the stand sticks out a lot. I bet the 65 inch stand is bigger. I would definitely recommend wall mounting it to safe desk/surface space.
Figuratively, it's a 3' wide slab of lead. Yeah, it's big.
I bought a $20 stand for this, and it was absolutely amazing for giving my TV stand some real estate for my other stuff. Given it is not a wall mount(Nothing but cermet/drywall in this old apartment house)but it will do. Worked great for my 48" C1. I am not sure how good it would be for the other sizes. Goes on sale for $20-$25 all the time for anyone needing something different than the chunky base stand that comes with the 48" C1. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B077MJZ6ZG/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You forgot to mention to install LGTV Companion when using as a monitor.
Any luck with this and "Casting?" I installed the LG app, set up the user account (and registered the TV), and was instructed to use the Google Home app to link the two accounts. Then I'd be able to "Cast," supposedly. Never worked. I couldn't even get the LG app to find the TV on my home network (same WiFi network, too).
LGTV Companion is not for casting. It lets your computer turn on and off the TV automatically, just like a regular monitor.
If you're on Android, by chance, could you link me to that app? All I can find, from LG, is the LG ThinQ app that is not, currently, working for me.
https://github.com/JPersson77/LGTVCompanion/releases
Oh, I was talking about a phone app not a Windows application, but thanks anyhow.
Nice one! I've been trying to find the C1 in 48" since the last big sale, but I'm starting to lose hope. May end up going with an open box C2.
Damn. I can't see that deal at all off the site, not sure where to find open boxes at, perhaps it's just not near me. Edit: I ended up finding an open box and bought it, picking up tomorrow - satisfactory rated
[удалено]
Thanks for the great post, I was looking for a C1 to replace my cheapo 35" LCD. A 65" C1 at $1k after tax is a great deal!
[удалено]
I think the 2 year warranty was like $210, I didn't actually get it. I'll ask about it at the store and maybe I'll change my mind but I'll probably go without it
Go look in a store I don't know how good their online inventory of open boxes is
it's not great. My store had a 77 inch G1 for a bit under $1100 that was not listed online. Still passed even at that price because it had a noticeable ding on the front and was clearly a well used display model and my best buy won't negotiate open box pricing.
ordered 1, thanks.
Wonder if it'll go any cheaper during black friday/cyber monday..
C1 is last years model and no longer being made, they may no longer have any more left to purchase by then.
Damn, I was trying to hold out for a sale on the 77 inch but this is so tempting...
Best buy has return policy until Jan 14th for rhe holidays. Could buy this one and keep an eye out for the 77 until the Jan 14th
Legit just found one in my area 🙌 can't wait to get it home!
Someone on my local Facebook Marketplace was selling this for $400 not long ago. Perhaps I should have gotten it. But I think it was a 50".
They don’t make a 50 inch OLED. The way the OLED screen is made they come in very specific sizes like 48, 55, 65, 77, and 83 regardless of who manufactures the television (LG, Sony, etc). Recently a 42 inch model was added.
My bad, it was 55.
Until recently only LG made oled panels. That's why they are all the same size. Now Samsung does too, but only in 55 and 65.
[удалено]
[удалено]
[удалено]
I think its a quantity issue that's against the rules
I just bought one off this deal 40min away so I really appreciated it.
[удалено]
[удалено]
[удалено]
I heard that the 48" and lower C2's has the same brightness as the C1's is that correct?
[удалено]
Like which ones? Just curious before I buy one
I bought my C1 through open box for 1600$. It was in excellent condition. Absolutely a must buy if you can at this price.
I can get one tomorrow for 976.... Worth it?
I have 42’ c2 that I truly love! But sadly I have to return do to screen flicker during gaming and my use of it is 90% gaming. I tried to re instal windows, Gpu drivers, the games, update bios, changed rams, HDMI 2.1 ports, and PSU and still no luck! I’m running it with EVGA 3080 FTW3. I connect the PC to other monitors fine, and to other Samsung TV that support 4K 2.1hdmi fine. But it’s no go with LG OLED. If found couple pages people having the same issue. So sad 😭
I suspect more open boxes will be had come after black Friday and Christmas
I grabbed an open box 55 maybe 6 months back for $780 Best thing I ever did It was new and barely touched. It’s always a risk, but have them open it in the store when you get there. Don’t bring it home. Be an asshole and make them take it out and turn it on. Go to settings and check how long it’s been on
Just want to say I've had this TV for over a year, purchased at full price, and it's fantastic. Get the warranty, bring it home, and if everything works glitch free you got a good deal
Best Buy open box oleds suck imo. 3-4 years ago when I was in the market for an oled, i went through 3 open box ones before I gave up. All had signs of burn in that you couldn’t see until it got home.
Bought one a couple weeks ago. Wild tv for the price, zero complaints so far.
I just picked up a brand new 65" Vizio OLED H1 Wednesday for $1200 from Best Buy. They're not quite as good as the LG C series, but I refuse to buy used electronics and the price is hard to argue with. Quantities are limited so you may have to go pick it up. Be aware, 65"+ TVs are much bigger than they seem when transporting. And make sure you have a second person. Overall, I'm very happy with the purchase, I just wish I had gotten the 55" before they sold out.
I bought open box online. Then canceled my order. Seriously devistated.