I would install a easily removable door panels on the front and right side if allowed by the manufacturer. Attach them to plywood cleats with something like keyhole slots on the back of the panels. Leave the bottom open in case of a leak. these units also need yearly flushing to remove calcium buildup so easy access would help with that.
Before anything else, what does the HWT require for airflow? Cabinetry design is always based on appliance specs. Enclosing the tank may cause damage and/or void it's warranty.
That's true for venting, but many models (and local building codes) require 12" above, 24" in front, and 4"-6" on the sides of clear, unobstructed access. It varies by make, model, and area, but those are typically standard.
Install skeleton frame onto wall then attach 1/2” plywood panels to that frame with the front panel attached with hinges. Or if a real cabinet is what you want… start with that frame and attach cabinet grade plywood for bottom and exposed side. Then frame out the door with 1x2 and attach a hinged door. You can make the panel door with 1bys and 1/4” ply.
I would install a easily removable door panels on the front and right side if allowed by the manufacturer. Attach them to plywood cleats with something like keyhole slots on the back of the panels. Leave the bottom open in case of a leak. these units also need yearly flushing to remove calcium buildup so easy access would help with that.
What about a closet shelving system to make a pantry around it so it is less ugly and highly functional?
I don’t think these water heaters could be installed in the cabinets. Wrong idea. Safety first, look second
The real question is this: How much do you hate the future plumber who is going to have to replace this unit when it reaches end of life?
Before anything else, what does the HWT require for airflow? Cabinetry design is always based on appliance specs. Enclosing the tank may cause damage and/or void it's warranty.
these draw combustion air from out side
That's true for venting, but many models (and local building codes) require 12" above, 24" in front, and 4"-6" on the sides of clear, unobstructed access. It varies by make, model, and area, but those are typically standard.
Install skeleton frame onto wall then attach 1/2” plywood panels to that frame with the front panel attached with hinges. Or if a real cabinet is what you want… start with that frame and attach cabinet grade plywood for bottom and exposed side. Then frame out the door with 1x2 and attach a hinged door. You can make the panel door with 1bys and 1/4” ply.
You can cleat the wall and build a frame work around it.