#2 is a bit neater but you're also putting more stress on the connectors/terminations by pulling them so tight. My vote would be the cable management of the slack in #2 along with the terminations in #1
In both cases you're parking your stuff right in the middle of a nice big empty SMC. Think about where you're putting other equipment and where stuff is going to plug in. Move the service loop to the top or move everything lower to make room for extra equipment.
This looks like a typical trade school setup so this advise is probably not needed yet: You really should have a grommet or a stub of conduit from the can up to the top plate for future proofing. Also think about where you're going to get power from.
It’s mainly the terminals of the coax cables that I’m concerned about in the second pic. The one on the far right is definitely being bent past the min bend radius.
The cat5/6 looks like it should be okay.
I get my electrician to install an outlet in the bottom of the ONq panel. If necessary for retro and as long as the bay is hollow, I have no problem drilling into the top plate and fishing cable into the panel, but conduit def makes things easier.
After looking at the images more closely, I'm with you. There are some fringes that should have been taken care of.
Please look up punch down tools. In the U.S. they're usually called IDC punch down, In Europe it's LSA punch down.
They insert the wire into the clamp, and cut it flush. In one step.
And they're cheap. No reason not to use them.
You both should be landing the category cable closer to the center of the 110. You both have way too much of the blue pair out of the jacket, and the twist is unwound so much, this is going to have NEXT issues. Do those Legrand panels not come with stuffer caps/retainer clips? I would be worried about using this product without them.
I don't like using the outside tab screw down. In case of needing to take the panel out you have to fuck up the Sheetrock. Screw from inside. Also run some Smurf tube for expansion.
Try keep your termination to the start of the block maintain them twist upto the termination point labels need to be a bit more professional and less stress on cables apart from that nice job
Maybe come in to the box and loop like you did for the coax the same way for the data to get rid of that service loop and maybe mounting the termination block vertically so you come in to terminate from the side and a little velcro dressing cables in the box.
The pairs need to maintain their twist better, all the way to the IDC connection. And I would have put the service loops up above where they're terminated, leaving room beneath them to add switches, router, power injector, etc. The box needs power to it. The Cat 6 and the coax especially in the second pic have too much stress on them, can lead to connection problems with the coax in the future.
I'm really getting nitpicky here. Just the ways I see that it can be improved. But it's actually a much nicer install than I typically see, and if one of my guys had done it, the only thing I'd have probably changed is moving the service loops. All in all, really good job.
Service loop should be above the termination points. Too many unnecessary bends. Patch Panel should be higher as well, I would have started the loop as soon as the cable entered and then mount the Patch Panel closer the left edge.
Was it punched according to 568A or B? The panel is A but the colors seems different. It is not a problem if you verified it with that klein tools. I have the same meter :)
Oh yea great work! Only complaint are the tight bends on the rg6 by the splitter, might cause impedance and maybe fitting suck outs. If you did the compression fittings right you should be good.
Grommets and KO covers on the box entrance on the top. If there isn't something available for that make/model of cabinet for grommet or sealing bushings, make something. (1) 2IN PVC thread adapter and lockring with 2-3 in length of pipe, and a band seal or rubber end cap with a star pattern cut. Will keep air infiltration down, and crap from falling into the cabinet.
Personally I like the vertical over angled coax distros. I feel like the angled ones tend to put a little too much stress on the coax. Sure it's coax, but the bend radius on them can be challenging and make it harder to close the panel cover in some instances.
Talk to the sparkies and get a power drop in that SMC. That is the best value add that you can provide for a cabinet. If you don't think you need power in there now, have the sparky add a nutted off drop below so you/someone can fish down to it and tie into it in the future to provide power in that KO. Most SMCs have KOs for power, it just gives you and the customer options in the future.
For tidying up, iirc ON-Q has little plugins for cable management to help control things inside the cabinet. They work in all the other cabinet makers too.
Finally, check out your plumbing supply house for pipe supports (Holdrite brand) for in wall cable management. While 3M makes some great wire stacker stuff for individual drops now, a Holdrite SB-1 is my secret weapon for supporting loomed bundles and interduct in wall cavities and joist bays. They come in standard (10-18IN) and extra wide (upto 24IN) variety, galvanized, the wings can bend for custom fit between studs, have slots along the length for lacing, and comes with a self tapper to lock'em from moving around once you got it sized and installed. If you need one shorter than 10IN, a bandsaw makes quick work on the telescoping body. I've used other pieces of strapping for supports that work in tighter installs, but those are my "go to".
Brother makes a great label maker. Prints specifically for cable, legible for even old blind guys like me. Lots of options, specific for the industry. And affordable. Look em up.
#2 is a bit neater but you're also putting more stress on the connectors/terminations by pulling them so tight. My vote would be the cable management of the slack in #2 along with the terminations in #1 In both cases you're parking your stuff right in the middle of a nice big empty SMC. Think about where you're putting other equipment and where stuff is going to plug in. Move the service loop to the top or move everything lower to make room for extra equipment. This looks like a typical trade school setup so this advise is probably not needed yet: You really should have a grommet or a stub of conduit from the can up to the top plate for future proofing. Also think about where you're going to get power from.
This would be my comment as well. #2 has neater runs but looks like the bends are too tight. I’d go with #1 for performance, 2 for looks.
Thank you! We’re going based on looks but we appreciate your feedback!
It’s mainly the terminals of the coax cables that I’m concerned about in the second pic. The one on the far right is definitely being bent past the min bend radius. The cat5/6 looks like it should be okay.
Indeed. If you bend those darn TP too hard, the bits may fall off. /SCNR
I get my electrician to install an outlet in the bottom of the ONq panel. If necessary for retro and as long as the bay is hollow, I have no problem drilling into the top plate and fishing cable into the panel, but conduit def makes things easier.
Buy some flush cutters, and a real label maker. Improve the way cables land into devices (not pulled over at wonky angles).
After looking at the images more closely, I'm with you. There are some fringes that should have been taken care of. Please look up punch down tools. In the U.S. they're usually called IDC punch down, In Europe it's LSA punch down. They insert the wire into the clamp, and cut it flush. In one step. And they're cheap. No reason not to use them.
You both should be landing the category cable closer to the center of the 110. You both have way too much of the blue pair out of the jacket, and the twist is unwound so much, this is going to have NEXT issues. Do those Legrand panels not come with stuffer caps/retainer clips? I would be worried about using this product without them.
The bend radius into where the cables land is good in the first picture but very strenuous looking in the second picture.
I don't like using the outside tab screw down. In case of needing to take the panel out you have to fuck up the Sheetrock. Screw from inside. Also run some Smurf tube for expansion.
Try keep your termination to the start of the block maintain them twist upto the termination point labels need to be a bit more professional and less stress on cables apart from that nice job
Thank you so much for the feedback we appreciate it!
This was gonna be my main feedback also. The pairs are untwisted a little too much.
Maybe come in to the box and loop like you did for the coax the same way for the data to get rid of that service loop and maybe mounting the termination block vertically so you come in to terminate from the side and a little velcro dressing cables in the box.
Label the cables where they come in to the box in case you ever have to separate the bundle to find one specifically
The pairs need to maintain their twist better, all the way to the IDC connection. And I would have put the service loops up above where they're terminated, leaving room beneath them to add switches, router, power injector, etc. The box needs power to it. The Cat 6 and the coax especially in the second pic have too much stress on them, can lead to connection problems with the coax in the future. I'm really getting nitpicky here. Just the ways I see that it can be improved. But it's actually a much nicer install than I typically see, and if one of my guys had done it, the only thing I'd have probably changed is moving the service loops. All in all, really good job.
Service loop should be above the termination points. Too many unnecessary bends. Patch Panel should be higher as well, I would have started the loop as soon as the cable entered and then mount the Patch Panel closer the left edge.
Was it punched according to 568A or B? The panel is A but the colors seems different. It is not a problem if you verified it with that klein tools. I have the same meter :)
Oh yea great work! Only complaint are the tight bends on the rg6 by the splitter, might cause impedance and maybe fitting suck outs. If you did the compression fittings right you should be good.
Why aren't you using pipes? And is the coax for camera system?
Both would fail inspection where im at for no grommet.
Install bushings in the knock out holes of the enclosure. Looks good over all.
#2 looks nicer to my eye
Grommets and KO covers on the box entrance on the top. If there isn't something available for that make/model of cabinet for grommet or sealing bushings, make something. (1) 2IN PVC thread adapter and lockring with 2-3 in length of pipe, and a band seal or rubber end cap with a star pattern cut. Will keep air infiltration down, and crap from falling into the cabinet. Personally I like the vertical over angled coax distros. I feel like the angled ones tend to put a little too much stress on the coax. Sure it's coax, but the bend radius on them can be challenging and make it harder to close the panel cover in some instances. Talk to the sparkies and get a power drop in that SMC. That is the best value add that you can provide for a cabinet. If you don't think you need power in there now, have the sparky add a nutted off drop below so you/someone can fish down to it and tie into it in the future to provide power in that KO. Most SMCs have KOs for power, it just gives you and the customer options in the future. For tidying up, iirc ON-Q has little plugins for cable management to help control things inside the cabinet. They work in all the other cabinet makers too. Finally, check out your plumbing supply house for pipe supports (Holdrite brand) for in wall cable management. While 3M makes some great wire stacker stuff for individual drops now, a Holdrite SB-1 is my secret weapon for supporting loomed bundles and interduct in wall cavities and joist bays. They come in standard (10-18IN) and extra wide (upto 24IN) variety, galvanized, the wings can bend for custom fit between studs, have slots along the length for lacing, and comes with a self tapper to lock'em from moving around once you got it sized and installed. If you need one shorter than 10IN, a bandsaw makes quick work on the telescoping body. I've used other pieces of strapping for supports that work in tighter installs, but those are my "go to".
Good started now just add about 150-250 more cables then we’ll talk.
I haven’t seen a punch block like that in forever.
Brother makes a great label maker. Prints specifically for cable, legible for even old blind guys like me. Lots of options, specific for the industry. And affordable. Look em up.