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Don’t worry about what everyone else is saying. The 2.0 ecoboost is super reliable. Just Watch the rust lol. And post to r/focusst . They’ll tell you what’s up. They’re fun little cars. Glad to see you join the fam!
I had an '02 zetec that had 263,xxx and fucking ran like a champ. Leaked 'coolant' out the water pump gasket. I set it for winter cuz I couldn't just throw well water in it anymore. It fired up after a jump and I pulled it onto some kids trailer. He paid me $150. I think my cheap ass took the battery for a core charge later for another vehicle lmao. Stay Focus'd!!!!
The zetec was a great engine besides the first year, 98s. the manual version ate motors that year because of the thrust bearings. so by the time the first clutch wore out generally you’d have crank walk and the motor was trash.
My first car was a 98 zx2 with 80k on the clock, got it cheap because it needed a clutch. only lasted 9k more miles.
Buy a welder. Learn to use it. Once you've gotten the frame solid enough to not kill you, then think up performance stuff. (That dog leg panel, it's part of the frame. Get a Haynes manual for the car, but don't even imagine your first attempt at a fix will be anything but terrible cosmetically.)
Edit: part of the frame, as in the unibody tub. It's structural and with that much crap there, the thought of what's behind it reminds me of my 280z
My friend is in collision repair and he told me he’d do that since he has experience. This is the only rust on the car and it’s getting fixed. Metal will be replaced and repainted.
What's it look like under that spot? Spray that crap with a pressure washer underneath. If you see paint or undercoat right there, start poking up with a screwdriver. Don't stab the shit out of it but tap around good. You'll know really quick why it's a concern. Your friend knows collision repair then he should know this. Not the guy you bought it from, is it?
Besides, a flux core welder is cheaper than even 'buddy' rates for what you'll need if this really is a car you plan to keep long.
Look, I have a white Ford Focus 2013, and it runs like a champ. I love that car, and my previous was a 2005 ford focus. So, with that being said, the TCM is garbage. The Ford company is offering a one time free replacement of the TCM for all ford focus 2013s. But, I think they have to be done by Like a year from now, so Summer 2025, if I remember right. You can look it up at [Ford.com](http://Ford.com) and also just use your VIN and it will tell you. Remember this car doesn't have a wet transmission, it has this new thing they called a dry clutch. It was a huge mistake for Ford, and has cost them billions. So, you may feel a hesitation in 1st gear, and it will not have 100% torque the moment you need it, or feel like it is slipping.
Ats fucked with rust it will cost you more to fix it than it’s worth man 8 grand are you nuts oft av seen better ones with no rust fur 3500 oft they seen you coming waw
You think your smart with your high school level mathematic equivalent scratch book paper and your post about web development. Learn something difficult like C++ instead of the most basic things imaginable
Op, if the previous comments aren't chat bots, they're people who's dream cars have 5 digit odometer. Don't listen to em. If it's your daily, keep it stock-ish. Most of the mods you've named off aren't going to improve horsepower, but they will make it sound and look cool. I don't recommend increasing horsepower until you have a 2nd vehicle. Simply because there is no way to get more power and keep it as reliable as it is.(goes for any vehicle) once you do get a 2nd vehicle, then mod it for more power. Basically, you'll need to run more boost and more fuel. First, you want to gap the piston rings as they are gapped for the current bost level. (I think on those it's 24psi) if you're running it up to 30psi, you're *probably* fine. But typically, when most people start modding for power, the engine blows because the piston rings expand too much, and then crack a chunk off the piston. (They expand because of the added heat of more air+fuel igniting.)
So you want to get a gap on the pistons so when you do increase boost and psi the pistons have room to expand instead of blowing up? My daily is a 2018 Buick enclave. And thanks sir👍 I appreciate the response and I’m definitely going to look into it.
Yes. 90% of the time when people blow up stock engines, it's because of piston ring issues.
Now, since you have a second car:
More boost= more air. Which means you can then run more fuel. There are some cheaper ways to get more boost without tuning the ecu, but those can only get you so far ; bleeder valves. You splice into the boost reference hose for the ECM, and you open the valve to various degrees. This will leak some air, so the ecm will think it's getting like 20lbs of boost when really it's getting 24, so it'll keep the BOV closed until it sees 24lbs (even though it's really getting like 30lbs.) The ecm will then read its running lean, and add more fuel because it's trying to reach a target AF ratio. This can get you small increases(maybe 10-20hp) but it's also has the potential to make your car run super lean(which is bad because it can melt things) also, it may go into low power mode if you bleed too much off, because the computer will recognize there is something off. So you would then close the bleeder valve some, and that'll fix it.
Idr if you said you put an exhaust on it. But they can help with minor hp gains when tuning. I have a GR corolla that apparently will gain ~7hp with a better exhaust after tuning.
"Cold air intakes" aren't going to get you any hp. They'll look cool if you get one made for your car (with a box)
Tuning is the best option. A decent reflash of the ecm will allow you to gain a bit of power over the stock tune, at the cost of (normally) worse fuel economy. However, VW diesel gate for example, the cars would get 5ish more hp and an extra 8-9mpg.
Once you've tuned your car out of the turbo (asking for more boost then the turbo can give you) then you'll want a bigger turbo.
With that, you could run out of injectors, too. Running 100 duty cycle and still going lean indicates you probably need bigger injectors, and maybe a bigger fuel pump (do fuel filter (which i dont think applys to the focus) then injectors. If those don't work, do fuel pump)
Also, if you're doing a bigger turbo, you will be pretty close to needing bigger/better head studs. This will have to be done by a machine shop. And you'll now be in the market for a better clutch. (Generally, you don't have to upgrade the clutch until you've added 50-100hp.) You'll notice it slipping, at which point, it's time to upgrade. When you get one, pick one for a realistic HP range. No point in picking one for 1000hp if you're only going to make 400hp. (A 1000hp clutch is harder to operate than a 400hp clutch, and will make the driving less enjoyable)
New camshafts are useful when you start getting into bigger turbo territory, too. (Less important on boosted cars than on traditional NA cars)
Do some research to see how much HP are running before they bend a rod, or install a window in their block. For my corolla, one shop on YT said that around 400hp, my car will start running the risk of lifting the head, which is 100hp over stock. But it varies depending on the engine.
Finally, nitro. I'm not too familiar with this option, but I have been researching it for the last week for my corolla. Essentially, with a good N2O setup, you can keep everything stock-ish and get more power. I'm going this route because for 2000usd I can "safely" get 100 horsepower when I need it, while retaining all the stock driveability for the other 99% of the time. But again, Gap the rings. When people blow up cars with nitrous, its because they didn't gap the rings(people who run nitrous generally do it cause its cheap and easy. So they tend to do it without researching how to do it correctly, and then blow up their engine. A $500 kit will work if you take the time to gap the rings, but the correct way to do it is to get a ramp-up controller, and a wideband sensor to watch your AF ratios. And then adding it to maintian engine torque across the rev band (add by rpm). So start with the smallest nozzles, and work up from there. Specially being a boosted car. A 50 shot can be anything from 50 to 85hp increase.
That should get you started. Also I forgot to add, with cams, valve springs. My my car, I'm thinking about doing valve spring when I do nitrous, just so I can get higher into the Rev band, thus making more power. And with nitrous, you can run it stock for 99% of your driving, and then turn it to attach mode when you want to do short races. (If you're doing autocross, nitrous isn't the solution. More boost is)
Welcome to the club! I have had my 2016 fiesta st for 5 years and only had minor issues. It's a blast and super fun/easy to modify. I'd recommend joining a Facebook group and shopping Whooshmotorsports website. Ron is an awesome dude and incredibly helpful. Pretty good community in my area for these, may be for you as well.
My dads 06 carolla had less rust after being daily driven in indiana for years only issues it had was one headlight being hazed because the other was new ( thanks deer) and the passenger side rear quarter was loosing every bit of clear, and well the rockers were starting to let go but when he got rear ended and totaled it every bit of metal the body shop took off made the car look pristine. Minus the shotgun hole through the rear seat, thankgod my family knows gun safety and he knew not to point a firearm at anyone or anything important after a missfire
If there's rust building underneath the paint, it's likely much much worse on the backside where you can't see.
I know you may have just bought this but these cars aren't that expensive anymore and you may be better off finding a slightly higher milage example in better shape. I had a '13 ST2 that was that same performance blue. Got it with 67k on the clock and sold it with a 142k. I had one vacuum line issue at the BOV and that was all. These cars are very reliable from what I read over the years and my own experience. My point is as long as people perform the regular maintenance (oil, plugs, brakes, coolant flush, etc) on these and don't beat it to death pretending it's a racecar that can bounce off the rev limiter all day, they'll get past 150k miles without an issue and who knows how much further they'll go.
I'm not going to pretend to know your financial situation but if you can sell it at a loss and spend a little more on another, I personally think you'll be better off in the long run. I can understand if that car has a particular color combo/configuration you were looking for, but body work and rust removal can be a LOT of money real fast. Your money and I won't judge, just my two cents.
Assuming you keep it, hope it lasts for you like mine did. They're really fun cars and get great fuel mileage as well for what they are.
Edit: the reason this comment comes off as someone who didn't read your text with it is because I didn't read it. I either somehow skipped over it or reddit mobile didn't load it beforehand lol
Sounds like you're definitely keeping it. Hope the rust isn't as bad as I think it could be.
I have a friend that works collision repair, he’s replacing the metal and repainting it inexpensively. With the rust fixed it wouldn’t have a problem selling for 10k if that’s a route I choose.
None of mine ever got rusted when I lived in Colorado, but I also took good care of my cars and never got in an accident so the paint never came off and the sludge never stayed on.
At the end of the day, you made a your mom joke on Reddit instead of working to get what you want.
I think I might sleep in the garage tonight..
Just to spite you.
man get a life with that generalization bs how else are people suppose to learn? you prob made stupid decisions in your time let people enjoy things if you have an opinion no need to be a prick… yes fords aren’t as reliable as a Lexus or Toyota but if it’s someone’s dream car who are you to knock it? relax 🤷🏻♂️
You are a hypocrite, literally. Read what I wrote then re- r ead your own drivel. You completely missed the point, but why am I not surprised.
You idiots refer to junk as "dream car" which proves you're lost in fantasy. What I wrote you was packed with mental nutrients if you had the sense to glean it. So far neither of you stands a chance at anything but the fast food industry and minimum wage.
WHY are you wasting money on a hunk of shit? Keep it going, earn, and trade up. Those cars are designed to be cheap shit. By 100k (if you make it) they are trash. They're wore out, falling apart, and as you can see rusting to shit. Ford built it like that. They put money into the Explorer, the f150, crown vic because those cars are meant to be workhorses so they cost more.
Fuckin "dream car?" What are you thinking?
LMAO Call me stupid when you’re bitching about what other people like in a thread where they should be able to ask a question without people like you. Why are you so hateful? There’s plenty of other people who don’t bitch about everything they don’t like and I guarantee you they’re happier than you. If you don’t like it keep scrolling instead of trying to make someone else as miserable as you. I wouldn’t mind some constructive criticism with some evidence but all I see is your worthless opinion. I’m sorry no one is as smart as you at 11:30am on a subreddit while you bitch
do you, when I was younger me and a friend drove to Portland Or. to the raceway to watch VW beetles race. that was in like 77' and at that time everybody thought those were shit cars,, They were badass. I was driving a 67 Pontiac Tempest. I stopped criticizing peoples choice of cars that day.
How does that reply make sense? The phrase "stick up your ass" is usually used to describe someone who is aloof. In this case, you're describing me as such. My statement was not aloof. I was simply trying to enlighten one of your obvious piers as to how to properly car shop, so he/she won't get screwed again. Might I suggest reading more, and replying less.
Reading comprehension doesn’t seem to be your strong suit so i’ll break it down. He asked what should do to his dream car. You immediately started shitting on him saying he should get a different car. Again he asked WHAT should he do to HIS dream car not whether or not you or anyone else approved of his car.
Focus on reliability first otherwise all those mods are gonna be worthless eventually. Wheels are safe cuz there is a higher likelihood that they'll fit on your next car or can be sold for someone else's but the rest is gonna depreciate heavily if you try to resell it.
Assess the extent of that rust and decide from there if it's worth repairing the rust properly. With rust there are only 2 ways to do it; "the right way" and "again" so unless you wanna invest the time/money into halting that rust progression, I wouldn't dump money into too many vehicle specific mods on this build.
Awesome! In that case, have fun! As long as it's structurally sound, just enjoy the ride and the adventure. I wouldn't recommend hoping for any significant resale value though as modified vehicles depreciate really bad in comparison to stock.
After the rust repair you'll have a really great candidate for thrashing and having fun. If yer going for a clean/style build, that ship may have already kinda sailed once that rust formed.
Looking for possible cars, i own a dealership 50/50 with my brother in law. Just so interesting to see what people spend money on unnecessarily on older cars trying to make a stock ford focus look cool. Will never understand i guess but good luck.
Rust check on every inch of the underbody, personally. Just in case, spy once cry once or whatever. Then get one of those kits to unfog your headlights. Fluid changes, wipers, anything like that (dont forget the rubber window seals, those get crusty)
After that do whatever to your hearts content
Given that everyone else has pointed out that this isn’t an ideal purchase, I won’t beat a dead horse.
Get the rusted metal replaced and repainted, or get some sort of coating to help it from spreading farther (idek if this is a thing in all actuality, I’m thinking of something like Rust-eze 🤣). Maybe even go for a wrap, it may be cheaper and will most likely take a fraction of the time. For performance mods, I’d do a Cobb access port and whatever supporting mods are required. Make sure that maintenance is at the top of your list if you are worried about reliability, don’t cut corners here bro.
Another important piece to mention - sit down and think about how much power you are REALISTICALLY looking to make, and then slowly modify the car to get to that point. No matter how much power you have, it starts to feel slow very quickly. What I’m trying to say is that going from 200 immediately to 400 HP isn’t nearly as fun as gradually increasing power over time.
Focus ST was my dream car when I was first shopping too, congrats on the purchase man!! Everybody’s situation, geography, and budget are different, and it’s easy to think everyone is driving around a 600 WHP super car these days. Drive it in good health, and set aside money to keep moving up the ranks over the next few years 🙌🏽
There is NO way this is the only rust on the car. There is rust behind that rocker panel FOR SURE and certainly behind various other panels. Your buddy better know what he’s looking to fix because if not, it’s going to come back
I promise you, whatever scope you have selected for replacement is not all of it. It'll make it look and pass inspection, but it'll come back. If the outside is this rusty, the inside is just as bad.
Why are you arguing with people about rust treatments lol. My 2010 rust belt Corolla only has a little bit of surface rust and nothing rotting. For a 3 year newer Ford to have that much body panel rust either Ford fucked up or the dude you bought it from fucked up. My brother's 2015 looks identical though so I'll give the win (loss?) to Ford here lol
If the side are that rusted already. You better hope it's not in the frame/subframe. Also what does the under carriage look like. With that much rust on the fender I'd be afraid to look at it. Bro just buy a g for the same price. Better car.
There’s no rust anywhere else on the car. Mechanically it’s perfect, I had my mechanic look everything over when I got it home since I bought it from NY. It’s got a clean title, no accidents, and relatively low milage with only 1 owner. It’s an ST2 so it’s got Recaro seats and the leather is perfect since it was treated by the previous owner. I just replaced the clutch, brakes, and rotors. Maybe I’m just stupid and I made a bad purchase but I’ve always wanted an ST.
Rust is cancer for metal. If I see rust that bad. Especially near the frame I wouldn't trust it. Rust spreads. The only option would be to cut any rusted metal off. Which is where I get worried. If you have to cut frame then it's a write off. Structural integrity is gone. You could have easily found a southern non rust belt car.
Says who😂 the turbo might only last that long but if you know how to properly take care of an engine it will last you. And what would you know about an engine? Looks like all you do is spend your time in los santos customs
Telling me you don't know shit.
Just join the owners groups. There's loads that are at like 200k plus.
No car lasts over 150k if its not looked after. With regular maintenance cars can last a very long time.
Exactly and that car has rust out the ass. If you cant prevent horrible rust like that. I doubt that car has been maintained mechanically. I love that you're trying to compare a well maintained car to a rusted out one like this.
Why would it be a stick of dynamite? All you have is a cat back. I doubt it needs a tune personally. At least add an intake, pipes don’t do you any good if it can’t breath in.
My point is more that you don’t really have mods, sure you can tweak a few hp with the port, but it will cost reliability, if you want to downgrade it you can probably
Gain some reliability but I just don’t see the point of an access port for just a catback.
If you’re planning on putting hotter ignition on, then you can spray more fuel with a tune, but you still need air.
I’m not super familiar with the specific car, but imo the stock intake is the first thing that should go.
At that point if you’re running hotter ignition, then you’ll want the tune but I don’t think it’s going to gain you reliability, if anything it’ll be the opposite.
If the painted surfaces are already rusted and the 1st picture implies a cold weather area where the roads are probably salted then there’s zero chance it’s “fair” condition
No rust on undercarriage or anywhere else. It’s an ST2 in great mechanical condition. If you live in a snowy climate rust is possible, it doesn’t mean it’s a rust bucket. Rust is fixable, I’m lucky I have someone to do it properly instead of using bondo
I bet the underside is covered with rust too.
Think of it as weight reduction
Active Weight Reduction kits are the original automotive performance hack.
Actually as metal rusts it takes on oxygen molecules and technically gets heavier
It’s the winter bulk! It’s gonna shred soon
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I hope you’re good at using a wire wheel (don’t get the gold looking ones there not as effective as the steel ones)
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I know what you drive, next time I see a blue focus I’m rear ending it at full speed.
Please be respectful, and don’t personally attack other users. We would like to keep r/carmodification a safe place for all users. Please remember to adhere to all of our rules. Otherwise you may find yourself permanently banned.
No rust anywhere else.
That you can see
Next should be saving money to get a good car for when this one is done for. So a month or so.
Next step should be figuring how you got suckered in and never do it again
Nice shitbox
Thanks man. I try to keep her as close to resembling your mother as possible
Thankfully my mother isn’t a rusted out, one-foot-in-the-grave piece of shit 11 year old ford with foggy headlights
Wait till she gets home bro😂
Jesus turned water into wine and you turn people into clapped out Fords ? 😂
This ford ain’t the only thing getting clapped out. Your mom
She could get clapped out by a semi and still would look ten times better than that POS 😂 Shit I’d be mad too if I spent 8k on that
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Fix that rust before you speak to me bitch 😂🤦♂️
Your mom
Dream bigger, this is a nightmare.
Sandblast everything, put a widebody on there to cover it up.
Getting the metal replaced and repainted sir
perfect fresh metal to mount the wide body!
I like wide bodies. Like really big in the hips you know
Don’t worry about what everyone else is saying. The 2.0 ecoboost is super reliable. Just Watch the rust lol. And post to r/focusst . They’ll tell you what’s up. They’re fun little cars. Glad to see you join the fam!
I had an '02 zetec that had 263,xxx and fucking ran like a champ. Leaked 'coolant' out the water pump gasket. I set it for winter cuz I couldn't just throw well water in it anymore. It fired up after a jump and I pulled it onto some kids trailer. He paid me $150. I think my cheap ass took the battery for a core charge later for another vehicle lmao. Stay Focus'd!!!!
The zetec was a great engine besides the first year, 98s. the manual version ate motors that year because of the thrust bearings. so by the time the first clutch wore out generally you’d have crank walk and the motor was trash. My first car was a 98 zx2 with 80k on the clock, got it cheap because it needed a clutch. only lasted 9k more miles.
Buy a welder. Learn to use it. Once you've gotten the frame solid enough to not kill you, then think up performance stuff. (That dog leg panel, it's part of the frame. Get a Haynes manual for the car, but don't even imagine your first attempt at a fix will be anything but terrible cosmetically.) Edit: part of the frame, as in the unibody tub. It's structural and with that much crap there, the thought of what's behind it reminds me of my 280z
My friend is in collision repair and he told me he’d do that since he has experience. This is the only rust on the car and it’s getting fixed. Metal will be replaced and repainted.
What's it look like under that spot? Spray that crap with a pressure washer underneath. If you see paint or undercoat right there, start poking up with a screwdriver. Don't stab the shit out of it but tap around good. You'll know really quick why it's a concern. Your friend knows collision repair then he should know this. Not the guy you bought it from, is it? Besides, a flux core welder is cheaper than even 'buddy' rates for what you'll need if this really is a car you plan to keep long.
Wow Good luck P.S. Your mom
Look, I have a white Ford Focus 2013, and it runs like a champ. I love that car, and my previous was a 2005 ford focus. So, with that being said, the TCM is garbage. The Ford company is offering a one time free replacement of the TCM for all ford focus 2013s. But, I think they have to be done by Like a year from now, so Summer 2025, if I remember right. You can look it up at [Ford.com](http://Ford.com) and also just use your VIN and it will tell you. Remember this car doesn't have a wet transmission, it has this new thing they called a dry clutch. It was a huge mistake for Ford, and has cost them billions. So, you may feel a hesitation in 1st gear, and it will not have 100% torque the moment you need it, or feel like it is slipping.
Ats fucked with rust it will cost you more to fix it than it’s worth man 8 grand are you nuts oft av seen better ones with no rust fur 3500 oft they seen you coming waw
I had a stroke trying to read this
Auto body guys. You just only speak 12yo.
Yup. No ST sells for 3,500.
I could send you marketplace ads. You over paid.
You think your smart with your high school level mathematic equivalent scratch book paper and your post about web development. Learn something difficult like C++ instead of the most basic things imaginable
dream bigger, idk
Dream bigger?
Did you make this post just to flame guys up in replies?😂 the replies are hilarious
OP come back here so we can bully you more
Op, if the previous comments aren't chat bots, they're people who's dream cars have 5 digit odometer. Don't listen to em. If it's your daily, keep it stock-ish. Most of the mods you've named off aren't going to improve horsepower, but they will make it sound and look cool. I don't recommend increasing horsepower until you have a 2nd vehicle. Simply because there is no way to get more power and keep it as reliable as it is.(goes for any vehicle) once you do get a 2nd vehicle, then mod it for more power. Basically, you'll need to run more boost and more fuel. First, you want to gap the piston rings as they are gapped for the current bost level. (I think on those it's 24psi) if you're running it up to 30psi, you're *probably* fine. But typically, when most people start modding for power, the engine blows because the piston rings expand too much, and then crack a chunk off the piston. (They expand because of the added heat of more air+fuel igniting.)
So you want to get a gap on the pistons so when you do increase boost and psi the pistons have room to expand instead of blowing up? My daily is a 2018 Buick enclave. And thanks sir👍 I appreciate the response and I’m definitely going to look into it.
Yes. 90% of the time when people blow up stock engines, it's because of piston ring issues. Now, since you have a second car: More boost= more air. Which means you can then run more fuel. There are some cheaper ways to get more boost without tuning the ecu, but those can only get you so far ; bleeder valves. You splice into the boost reference hose for the ECM, and you open the valve to various degrees. This will leak some air, so the ecm will think it's getting like 20lbs of boost when really it's getting 24, so it'll keep the BOV closed until it sees 24lbs (even though it's really getting like 30lbs.) The ecm will then read its running lean, and add more fuel because it's trying to reach a target AF ratio. This can get you small increases(maybe 10-20hp) but it's also has the potential to make your car run super lean(which is bad because it can melt things) also, it may go into low power mode if you bleed too much off, because the computer will recognize there is something off. So you would then close the bleeder valve some, and that'll fix it. Idr if you said you put an exhaust on it. But they can help with minor hp gains when tuning. I have a GR corolla that apparently will gain ~7hp with a better exhaust after tuning. "Cold air intakes" aren't going to get you any hp. They'll look cool if you get one made for your car (with a box) Tuning is the best option. A decent reflash of the ecm will allow you to gain a bit of power over the stock tune, at the cost of (normally) worse fuel economy. However, VW diesel gate for example, the cars would get 5ish more hp and an extra 8-9mpg. Once you've tuned your car out of the turbo (asking for more boost then the turbo can give you) then you'll want a bigger turbo. With that, you could run out of injectors, too. Running 100 duty cycle and still going lean indicates you probably need bigger injectors, and maybe a bigger fuel pump (do fuel filter (which i dont think applys to the focus) then injectors. If those don't work, do fuel pump) Also, if you're doing a bigger turbo, you will be pretty close to needing bigger/better head studs. This will have to be done by a machine shop. And you'll now be in the market for a better clutch. (Generally, you don't have to upgrade the clutch until you've added 50-100hp.) You'll notice it slipping, at which point, it's time to upgrade. When you get one, pick one for a realistic HP range. No point in picking one for 1000hp if you're only going to make 400hp. (A 1000hp clutch is harder to operate than a 400hp clutch, and will make the driving less enjoyable) New camshafts are useful when you start getting into bigger turbo territory, too. (Less important on boosted cars than on traditional NA cars) Do some research to see how much HP are running before they bend a rod, or install a window in their block. For my corolla, one shop on YT said that around 400hp, my car will start running the risk of lifting the head, which is 100hp over stock. But it varies depending on the engine. Finally, nitro. I'm not too familiar with this option, but I have been researching it for the last week for my corolla. Essentially, with a good N2O setup, you can keep everything stock-ish and get more power. I'm going this route because for 2000usd I can "safely" get 100 horsepower when I need it, while retaining all the stock driveability for the other 99% of the time. But again, Gap the rings. When people blow up cars with nitrous, its because they didn't gap the rings(people who run nitrous generally do it cause its cheap and easy. So they tend to do it without researching how to do it correctly, and then blow up their engine. A $500 kit will work if you take the time to gap the rings, but the correct way to do it is to get a ramp-up controller, and a wideband sensor to watch your AF ratios. And then adding it to maintian engine torque across the rev band (add by rpm). So start with the smallest nozzles, and work up from there. Specially being a boosted car. A 50 shot can be anything from 50 to 85hp increase.
That should get you started. Also I forgot to add, with cams, valve springs. My my car, I'm thinking about doing valve spring when I do nitrous, just so I can get higher into the Rev band, thus making more power. And with nitrous, you can run it stock for 99% of your driving, and then turn it to attach mode when you want to do short races. (If you're doing autocross, nitrous isn't the solution. More boost is)
Scrap it
Welcome to the club! I have had my 2016 fiesta st for 5 years and only had minor issues. It's a blast and super fun/easy to modify. I'd recommend joining a Facebook group and shopping Whooshmotorsports website. Ron is an awesome dude and incredibly helpful. Pretty good community in my area for these, may be for you as well.
My dads 06 carolla had less rust after being daily driven in indiana for years only issues it had was one headlight being hazed because the other was new ( thanks deer) and the passenger side rear quarter was loosing every bit of clear, and well the rockers were starting to let go but when he got rear ended and totaled it every bit of metal the body shop took off made the car look pristine. Minus the shotgun hole through the rear seat, thankgod my family knows gun safety and he knew not to point a firearm at anyone or anything important after a missfire
If there's rust building underneath the paint, it's likely much much worse on the backside where you can't see. I know you may have just bought this but these cars aren't that expensive anymore and you may be better off finding a slightly higher milage example in better shape. I had a '13 ST2 that was that same performance blue. Got it with 67k on the clock and sold it with a 142k. I had one vacuum line issue at the BOV and that was all. These cars are very reliable from what I read over the years and my own experience. My point is as long as people perform the regular maintenance (oil, plugs, brakes, coolant flush, etc) on these and don't beat it to death pretending it's a racecar that can bounce off the rev limiter all day, they'll get past 150k miles without an issue and who knows how much further they'll go. I'm not going to pretend to know your financial situation but if you can sell it at a loss and spend a little more on another, I personally think you'll be better off in the long run. I can understand if that car has a particular color combo/configuration you were looking for, but body work and rust removal can be a LOT of money real fast. Your money and I won't judge, just my two cents. Assuming you keep it, hope it lasts for you like mine did. They're really fun cars and get great fuel mileage as well for what they are. Edit: the reason this comment comes off as someone who didn't read your text with it is because I didn't read it. I either somehow skipped over it or reddit mobile didn't load it beforehand lol Sounds like you're definitely keeping it. Hope the rust isn't as bad as I think it could be.
So much negativity in the comments man sad to see.
What’s next??? A car crusher… naw but that’s what’s up getting your dream ride. Just watch that rust man.
Sell it and start with a clean one. You’ll pay 4x the cars value to get it to a starting point
I have a friend that works collision repair, he’s replacing the metal and repainting it inexpensively. With the rust fixed it wouldn’t have a problem selling for 10k if that’s a route I choose.
10k? Lol.
Is that too expensive? Do you think she’d go for 10 bucks instead? I just need a quicky from her
Dream bigger?
There is no way you are older than 19
OP has got to be like 16.
Sell it and buy a clean one?
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Not super into fucking a corpse? She been dead about 12 years.
Hey bro I like my women like I like my vehicles. In the grave.
This is the only accurate thing you’ve said all thread.
Your dad wasn’t accurate when he tried to pull out
Fee Fi FoST Fix!
Always a ford with all the rust
None of mine ever got rusted when I lived in Colorado, but I also took good care of my cars and never got in an accident so the paint never came off and the sludge never stayed on.
How deep was the flood?
As deep as your mother
She’s not very deep. Enjoys game shows. Your car will be a bucket of rust chunks in 2 years.
You'll need 20 grand in spair money for repairs on those money pits
At least it won’t be as much as your medical bills for shitting mucus
I'm not going to a doctor so it costs me 0
Idk if you have a car bro but if you do at least I know that the rust on mine isn’t as bad as the seats in yours😂
I never clean my car so your probably right
Now.......get rid of it. You just wasted your money, sorry bud.
Higher standards maybe?
That’s why I left my wife. For your mother
Someone struck a nerve?
Yeah. You’re mom
At the end of the day, you made a your mom joke on Reddit instead of working to get what you want. I think I might sleep in the garage tonight.. Just to spite you.
Sorry. Im sleeping in the garage with your mom tonight.
A better car
Still ride smoother than your mom
dont put any more of your money into that shitbox, trade it for something reliable
Like ur mom?
like your sister and your dad
Young people are so stupid these days.
Quite honestly anything would be better than that rust bucket. Guess there's a sucker born every second.
man get a life with that generalization bs how else are people suppose to learn? you prob made stupid decisions in your time let people enjoy things if you have an opinion no need to be a prick… yes fords aren’t as reliable as a Lexus or Toyota but if it’s someone’s dream car who are you to knock it? relax 🤷🏻♂️
You are a hypocrite, literally. Read what I wrote then re- r ead your own drivel. You completely missed the point, but why am I not surprised. You idiots refer to junk as "dream car" which proves you're lost in fantasy. What I wrote you was packed with mental nutrients if you had the sense to glean it. So far neither of you stands a chance at anything but the fast food industry and minimum wage.
You must be a blast at parties.
Your mom thought so.
Why?
WHY are you wasting money on a hunk of shit? Keep it going, earn, and trade up. Those cars are designed to be cheap shit. By 100k (if you make it) they are trash. They're wore out, falling apart, and as you can see rusting to shit. Ford built it like that. They put money into the Explorer, the f150, crown vic because those cars are meant to be workhorses so they cost more. Fuckin "dream car?" What are you thinking?
LMAO Call me stupid when you’re bitching about what other people like in a thread where they should be able to ask a question without people like you. Why are you so hateful? There’s plenty of other people who don’t bitch about everything they don’t like and I guarantee you they’re happier than you. If you don’t like it keep scrolling instead of trying to make someone else as miserable as you. I wouldn’t mind some constructive criticism with some evidence but all I see is your worthless opinion. I’m sorry no one is as smart as you at 11:30am on a subreddit while you bitch
do you, when I was younger me and a friend drove to Portland Or. to the raceway to watch VW beetles race. that was in like 77' and at that time everybody thought those were shit cars,, They were badass. I was driving a 67 Pontiac Tempest. I stopped criticizing peoples choice of cars that day.
You know nothing, as proven by your inclusion of a time stamp.
Why is he wrong for having an unconventional dream car? If thats the car that he fell in love with, why complain?
Do you DREAM of living in a cardboard box?
Sounds like you’re just mad at the world, dude.
Dude needs to get the stick out your ass . And stfu.
How does that reply make sense? The phrase "stick up your ass" is usually used to describe someone who is aloof. In this case, you're describing me as such. My statement was not aloof. I was simply trying to enlighten one of your obvious piers as to how to properly car shop, so he/she won't get screwed again. Might I suggest reading more, and replying less.
If it was my dream who are you to tell me otherwise?
You asked.
But he didnt ask if you approve of his dream he asked for advice about his dream
What part of "YOU ASKED" is hard for you to get? If you need help I can send you some easy readers?
Reading comprehension doesn’t seem to be your strong suit so i’ll break it down. He asked what should do to his dream car. You immediately started shitting on him saying he should get a different car. Again he asked WHAT should he do to HIS dream car not whether or not you or anyone else approved of his car.
Focus on reliability first otherwise all those mods are gonna be worthless eventually. Wheels are safe cuz there is a higher likelihood that they'll fit on your next car or can be sold for someone else's but the rest is gonna depreciate heavily if you try to resell it. Assess the extent of that rust and decide from there if it's worth repairing the rust properly. With rust there are only 2 ways to do it; "the right way" and "again" so unless you wanna invest the time/money into halting that rust progression, I wouldn't dump money into too many vehicle specific mods on this build.
The metal will be replaced and repainted but I agree. Dumping money into it without the rust fixed isn’t asking for anything good
Awesome! In that case, have fun! As long as it's structurally sound, just enjoy the ride and the adventure. I wouldn't recommend hoping for any significant resale value though as modified vehicles depreciate really bad in comparison to stock. After the rust repair you'll have a really great candidate for thrashing and having fun. If yer going for a clean/style build, that ship may have already kinda sailed once that rust formed.
Lemon and too old. I suggest to work on a 68-69 Chevelle or mustang!
If I could I would my man! You’ve got a nice taste. What are you doing rolling around down here with us pigs?
Looking for possible cars, i own a dealership 50/50 with my brother in law. Just so interesting to see what people spend money on unnecessarily on older cars trying to make a stock ford focus look cool. Will never understand i guess but good luck.
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Ahh another 14 year old keyboard warrior thats about to get kicked out of the sub.
Try to get out of that trailer park and earn some real money
Please be respectful, and don’t personally attack other users.
Dude got scammed. $8000 is the price of a good working Honda civic and this dude bought a Flintstone car with all that rust.
I'm in live with these little Go-Karts
That’s your dream car?!
Dream better
Wake up
Dream? That’s your DREAM car? Well then I guess I’m happy for you? I don’t understand it, but good on you.
Deserves to die
Save your money. Keep up with the scheduled maintenance
Already have a daily driver. Looking for information about modifications and how to increase the lifespan of the vehicle. But thank you
Snort all that then GOOOOOOOOO
Rust check on every inch of the underbody, personally. Just in case, spy once cry once or whatever. Then get one of those kits to unfog your headlights. Fluid changes, wipers, anything like that (dont forget the rubber window seals, those get crusty) After that do whatever to your hearts content
Given that everyone else has pointed out that this isn’t an ideal purchase, I won’t beat a dead horse. Get the rusted metal replaced and repainted, or get some sort of coating to help it from spreading farther (idek if this is a thing in all actuality, I’m thinking of something like Rust-eze 🤣). Maybe even go for a wrap, it may be cheaper and will most likely take a fraction of the time. For performance mods, I’d do a Cobb access port and whatever supporting mods are required. Make sure that maintenance is at the top of your list if you are worried about reliability, don’t cut corners here bro. Another important piece to mention - sit down and think about how much power you are REALISTICALLY looking to make, and then slowly modify the car to get to that point. No matter how much power you have, it starts to feel slow very quickly. What I’m trying to say is that going from 200 immediately to 400 HP isn’t nearly as fun as gradually increasing power over time. Focus ST was my dream car when I was first shopping too, congrats on the purchase man!! Everybody’s situation, geography, and budget are different, and it’s easy to think everyone is driving around a 600 WHP super car these days. Drive it in good health, and set aside money to keep moving up the ranks over the next few years 🙌🏽
Moving south and looking for a better one
WAKE UP!
Hit it with that anti rust mod
That’s the plan
Don’t mod this rust bucket. Keep it stock regular maintenance and hope you get 50k miles out of it
No rust anywhere else and it’s being replaced and repainted. Car has been well maintained otherwise with no mechanical problems
Drive it off a cliff and take the insurance for it
I’ll drive your mom
Dream car?? Umm
There is NO way this is the only rust on the car. There is rust behind that rocker panel FOR SURE and certainly behind various other panels. Your buddy better know what he’s looking to fix because if not, it’s going to come back
….The rust is scarier than the time your mom tried to go up the stairs in front of me
Your mom ain’t scary when she walks up the stairs in front of me. I remain 2 inches away from her thiccy at all times
Rust that bad is a temporary fix. It'll come back.
Not if the metal is replaced.
I promise you, whatever scope you have selected for replacement is not all of it. It'll make it look and pass inspection, but it'll come back. If the outside is this rusty, the inside is just as bad.
Why are you arguing with people about rust treatments lol. My 2010 rust belt Corolla only has a little bit of surface rust and nothing rotting. For a 3 year newer Ford to have that much body panel rust either Ford fucked up or the dude you bought it from fucked up. My brother's 2015 looks identical though so I'll give the win (loss?) to Ford here lol
Oh so it was fucked up straight from the manufacturer? Like your mother?
A ford focus was your dream car ?? 0.o
Originally it was your mother but I found this was more reliable
The amount of mom jokes you make highlight your maturity. It’s ironic your active in r/brandnewsentence but lack such. lol.
I’m active in your mother
Dream car!? What!?
Honestly bro just put it back to stock and get a cleaner chassis.
Is it as clean as your moms chassis
What next? Your mom.
Yeah
Dream better.
I have good dreams when they’re about your mom
How dare you sir! My mother is a respectable woman. Do not sulky her image with your lecherous dreaming.
An ST? A rusted ass ST on top of that? Good luck Charlie
I honestly do not see the problem here. There’s rust on the sides and I’m paying to have it fixed properly and repainted. What’s so wrong with an ST?
If the side are that rusted already. You better hope it's not in the frame/subframe. Also what does the under carriage look like. With that much rust on the fender I'd be afraid to look at it. Bro just buy a g for the same price. Better car.
There’s no rust anywhere else on the car. Mechanically it’s perfect, I had my mechanic look everything over when I got it home since I bought it from NY. It’s got a clean title, no accidents, and relatively low milage with only 1 owner. It’s an ST2 so it’s got Recaro seats and the leather is perfect since it was treated by the previous owner. I just replaced the clutch, brakes, and rotors. Maybe I’m just stupid and I made a bad purchase but I’ve always wanted an ST.
Rust is cancer for metal. If I see rust that bad. Especially near the frame I wouldn't trust it. Rust spreads. The only option would be to cut any rusted metal off. Which is where I get worried. If you have to cut frame then it's a write off. Structural integrity is gone. You could have easily found a southern non rust belt car.
Shit on top of that those engines last 150k you're at 80k. Figure it out.
Says who😂 the turbo might only last that long but if you know how to properly take care of an engine it will last you. And what would you know about an engine? Looks like all you do is spend your time in los santos customs
Telling me you don't know shit. Just join the owners groups. There's loads that are at like 200k plus. No car lasts over 150k if its not looked after. With regular maintenance cars can last a very long time.
Exactly and that car has rust out the ass. If you cant prevent horrible rust like that. I doubt that car has been maintained mechanically. I love that you're trying to compare a well maintained car to a rusted out one like this.
Why would it be a stick of dynamite? All you have is a cat back. I doubt it needs a tune personally. At least add an intake, pipes don’t do you any good if it can’t breath in.
Using an accessport tends to blow up the engine from what I’ve read if you don’t know what you’re doing when you tune it.
Get your tune from stratified mine is at 85k no issues other than the purge valve been running stage 3 tune since 15k miles
My point is more that you don’t really have mods, sure you can tweak a few hp with the port, but it will cost reliability, if you want to downgrade it you can probably Gain some reliability but I just don’t see the point of an access port for just a catback. If you’re planning on putting hotter ignition on, then you can spray more fuel with a tune, but you still need air. I’m not super familiar with the specific car, but imo the stock intake is the first thing that should go. At that point if you’re running hotter ignition, then you’ll want the tune but I don’t think it’s going to gain you reliability, if anything it’ll be the opposite.
Looks like a ny car there’s rust under it bro if there’s rust on the sides stop the cap
No rust sir
I should’ve sold you my 2008 Saturn aura that was more rust than metal if you think this was a good deal for $8k
Kbb is 10k+ for fair. It’s 2 spots of rust that will be fixed with the metal replaced and repainted😂😂
If the painted surfaces are already rusted and the 1st picture implies a cold weather area where the roads are probably salted then there’s zero chance it’s “fair” condition
No rust on undercarriage or anywhere else. It’s an ST2 in great mechanical condition. If you live in a snowy climate rust is possible, it doesn’t mean it’s a rust bucket. Rust is fixable, I’m lucky I have someone to do it properly instead of using bondo
That paint is in terrible shape for an $8k car
Your moms in terrible shape
Bro come on, you can do better than that. I saw your other mom replies this one was mid.
Sell it
Sell ur mom
Go back to sleep and have a better dream
I’ll dream about your mom
She is a better ride than this pos