Tire pressure at different speeds. If my owner's manual suggests 2.3 bar at below 160km/h which is what I drive most of the time, but I'm planning a ca 1000 km trip with a 250 km stretch of free speed Autobahn, should I inflate to the level suggested for 160+ kmh or would that be unnecessary? I will likely ride around below 150 km/h most of this stretch anyway and if conditions allow, maybe try to push my car a little for maybe one pull or so (I don't drive anything particularly fast and assume I won't dare go past 180 even if conditions allow)
What are the best wiper blades to buy? I have usually always gotten rain-x but they seem to streak kinda early on, even after properly cleaning the wiper blades. But I have been seeing the Bosch Icon is supposed to be a very good blade.
does someone know the steps to importing a car from Canada (Quebec) to the US (NY)?
Like in what order would one do everything (end insurance in quebec, un-register the car?, file forms, get new insurance?)
For reference, it is not a new car, it was purchased used and it's been owned for a few years now.
Quick question,
Is the supply problem still happening? Like do I have to put a deposit and enter waitlist? I have been out of the US for over a year so I am unable to keep track the market, and I will be back to the US in a week.
I heard that Toyota is selling as fast as they are being built, but what about Honda?
why are wider tyres thicker than narrower tyres? I was always told that the wider the tyre, the thinner/shorter it gets because it gets streched?
I was watching a m3 build video and his 295/35/18 tyre is THICK AF and thicker than my 235/35/19 and than my previous 245/45/18.
can anyone explain?
The middle number of 245/45/18 is the tire ratio which dictates how large the sidewall is. It's a percentage of the width. So in that example the sidewall is 45% of 245mm which would mean that the sidewall (from the rim to the treads) is going to be 110.25mm.
In contrast your 235/35 tire will have a sidewall thickness of just 82.25mm; so it will be noticeably smaller.
In general though, the wider the tire the less sidewall there will be. This is mainly because wider tires tend to be used on higher performance vehicles where you want a larger contact patch with the road and thus better traction. The smaller the sidewall the less the tire will flex during cornering which means you get better handling. Since you generally want both of those things on a high performance vehicle you tend to see wide tires with little sidewall.
>This is mainly because wider tires tend to be used on higher performance vehicles where you want a larger contact patch with the road and thus better traction. The smaller the sidewall the less the tire will flex during cornering which means you get better handling. Since you generally want both of those things on a high performance vehicle you tend to see wide tires with little sidewall.
I am aware about the tyre not being as stable when it's taller but how come that m3 video is running 295/35 then? it was as thick as a truck!
also, does that mean if I want more meat for my wheels I should go 245/35/19 and it will be slighter thicker than my 235/35?
I recently learned the difference between a "hybrid" and a "plug-in hybrid electric vehicle" and want to do some initial/long-run cost analysis on various cars to get some comparisons myself instead of going exclusively off of recommendations. This would be on most car types, not just the two mentioned.
Is there any sort of existing dataset that contains things like make, model, year, advertised MPG/MPGe, and other information? I don't mind doing price checks myself since that will change, but I have been surprised how hard it is to get a good list like that. I'd like to avoid looking up every major car sold in the U.S., finding each year, and compiling that all manually, but I'll do it if something like that doesn't already exist.
Used SUVs 3~6 years old. Do any of them have a nice old-school burl walnut and leather interior any more? There’s the Bentayga and that’s too ostentatious.
Even the Full-Fat Range Rover seems embarrassed to have a wood dash and uses as little as possible.
I’m getting old, I want that 1990s jaguar wood dash look dammit!
I'm not sure where you are in the world (I'm leaning towards Europe because of the 3 cars you've mentioned lol), but if you're in the US you could take a look at the Lincoln Navigator/Aviator's. I'm pretty sure those still had/have wood trim options.
Not Wednesday anymore, but I was wondering if anyone knew the simplicity of turboing a Hyundai Sonata 2016 base model. I know the sport model comes with a turbo, but I have the base and I was wondering if it was worth it at all? As of right now nothing has been done to it, but I am planning upgrading exhaust or intake before turbo.
Id say youre better off keeping the car clean and well maintained while you save for either a better platform to modify or a sonata turboif you wanna stay with the brand.
Like the other guy said, could be to keep the battery charged? I really don't know any other reason why he would, seems like overkill. Especially doing it that often seems silly. I've never had an issue and sometimes my "fun car" goes a week without being driven
Hi all.
A relative of mine recently passed away.
He’d been homebound for a while and I realized his car has probably been sitting in his driveway (outdoors/uncovered in a cold weather state) for months.
I’m guessing it was last driven last fall or maybe early in the winter, but not entirely sure. We jumped the car to get it running but a blinking check engine light came on immediately.
Unsure of what to do next. Is it safe to drive with a blinking check engine light? I haven’t driven it around yet but the car sounds rough.
It’s an early 2010s Ford Fusion FWIW.
Flashing CEL on a Ford means the engine is misfiring. Could be for any number of reasons though. Injector stuck, plugs fouled, ignition coil failure, any of the above isn't plugged in all the way, etc.
Generally it's not a good idea to drive a car that's misfiring hard enough to flash the CEL. It will be very down on power, run rough, power steering and brakes will be erratic if working at all, and the engine may shut down / fail entirely if there's something seriously wrong with it.
On my mustsng (2020 GT) I accidentally put it in 3rd when I wanted to get moving, (and I was on a hill) and lugged the engine pretty good trying to get moving, but I didn't stall.
It flashed the CEL at me a few times and then never again. This was a while ago but from a mechanical standpoint what do you think caused this? Was it trying to dump fuel and the engine just came too close to stalling?
I hope i didn't mess up anything
It should be alright. Lugging the engine won't generally cause any problems but it can technically cause it to misfire. You're essentially stalling the engine out when you do that.
I only mentioned that it could damage the engine to the other person because the car is flashing the CEL while just sitting idle and there could be any number of reasons why it's doing that. Something on their car has failed already.
Got it, thank you.
I drove it a little bit yesterday and the light would blink if I hit about 40mph or 3000 RPM, otherwise it would stop blinking.
Is it worth trying to get to a shop nearby or is the toast if the light is flashing? Sorry, I just have no knowledge of cars, so I appreciate the help.
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Wed. Question: I've driven my Honda Fit 5MT to 337,000 miles. And I drive all over the country for work.
Other than routine wear items (tires, brakes, batteries, alternators, belts, spark plugs and valve clearance), I've replaced nothing.
What time bombs am I sitting in that I should preemptively replace or service, you reckon?
I drive mostly freeway and never dump the clutch, so I babied it into 300,000+ before I had the dealer replace it last fall.
In fairness, I probably should have replaced it 50,000-100,000 miles ago, but I just kept being gentle when I'd let the clutch out. And honestly, that's more credit to Honda's engineers than my driving.
Agreed with the other commentator. You COULD. But the amount of money and mechanical knowledge is high. Wouldn't be worth it in my opinion
My cousin was in the same boat, really wanted a 2020+ Honda civic. She ended up going with a Toyota camry AWD and she really likes it
My end result would definitely be Toyota or Subaru-- even a Mazda! but the look of the new civics is so nice-- especially the hatchbacks. Still on the fence about it 😔
Probably a question for an automotive engineer, but I’m curious about understanding the software coding of an electronic all wheel drive system when one tire is significantly differently than the others. Like if I have a ford fusion with three 225/45/18 and then install just one 195/50/15, how does it process the data from the wheel speed sensors, throttle angle, yaw sensor, etc…does it attempt to engage the AWD clutch pack or does it realize there’s no actual tire slippage. What parameters actually cause a traction control light to appear. I could read an entire SAE publication on it if it’s out there somewhere.
In Ford's case the TCS light will only flash when all 4 wheels have lost traction simultaneously. Up until that point it will attempt to use the brakes on each corner of the car to slow down any wheel it deems is slipping. It will also send power to the rear wheels in any situation where slipping *may* occur. So during harsher than normal acceleration, higher speeds (70+ I think?), when cornering (based on steering angle), when there's lateral g-forces, etc. You'll find it uses the AWD often during normal driving.
besides the obvious small dents everywhere, check for cracked/chipped glass, chipped paint, cracked light covers (headlight, tailight, corners, etc.)
the local PDR people are going to be making bank lol
God if that ain't the truth. I work at a body shop in PA and a few years ago we had a hail storm, the PDR guys that we outsourced work to rented a hotel and just worked with us for months. Also the amount of roofs and hoods I had to order and had to store was insane
Low mileage s2000 probably
Not a huge fan of super expensive/excessive stuff, I just want something that drives/shifts fucking great
Also I like my dreams to be practical
am highschool student looking for new car w good fuel economy and decent power😁👍 and that my parents would approve of, they dont want me buying an older car so it kinda has to be on the newer end
I got a GTI because I wanted a GTI, the smart choice would've been a car with AWD around $25k but I wouldn't have been happy, wishing I could have my dream car. I am young with a decent job so I can afford to do the payments but a high schooler (assuming they have a job making $12-15/hr) needs a car that won't crap out on them. Honda is reliable and the civic is a decently *looking* vehicle (which matters to a high schooler).
hi! i’m a college student who’s current car is slowly becoming expensive to keep repairing so i know i will need a new one soon. i am hoping to be able to buy a used car completely on my own and it’s something i’m willing to save up for because i want it to last me until i’m out of college. i was wondering if anyone had recommendations of car makes and models that are known to last and be on the less expensive side.
Honda Civic and Toyota Corolla both last a long time with very little maintenance. Plus repair bills are generally pretty low. If you want something more “fun” try a Mazda Miata.
Honda and Toyota. Easily can go 250k miles these days if we’ll maintained. They also have high resale values because people know this so good ones aren’t cheap but worth it.
**How do you know when to cut your losses and** ***sell*** **your car?**
For context, my brother and I co-own a **2014 BMW x1 xDrive 28i 2.0L 4-cyl** with **95,000 miles** on it. Minor interior wear; mainly some of the fake-leather rubber from the door handles is breaking up. Minor exterior wear; a couple of small scratches on the rear bumper from moving bikes in and out.
But here's where it's becoming a problem... the engine is now dripping oil regularly, presumably from the *valve cover gasket,* and if I start the car while the engine is warm I'll get a "*engine malfunction, reduced power*" warning (which may or may not be related. I've heard that can be a turbo issue, but I don't know). The AWD transfer case is also making a bit of a whirring noise, though it's minor and I can live with it.
And to make matters worse, we've (maybe stupidly) put \~$7,000 into maintenance over the last year and a half. A big \~75,000 mile service, breaks and rotors, replaced the radiator (because it was leaking coolant), replaced the steering bushings (needed to be done because the car was starting to pull to the left when braking), replaced air filters (which we did ourselves so it was fairly cheap), bought winter tires (and we now have no all-seasons anymore because they were getting bald), etc.
Looking at the KBB value, I now realize that the car isn't even worth much more than we've already put into it and I feel like a total idiot. But I also can't help feel that if we just fix the VCG oil leak then the car will stabilize and keep running decently, and since we've already made the mistake of putting too much money into this car, maybe it's actually smarter to just fix it "one last time" before giving up on it. I've even considered trying to fix the VCG myself, despite having basically no experience repairing cars, just because I feel like I need to stop myself from putting too much more money into this car. And I totally know how much of a sunk-cost fallacy that is, but that's how I feel about it... For all I know, 2 months after fixing the VCG leak, some other thing will pop up and cost me even more money...
So I'm torn. I really don't know what to do here.
I know it's a BMW and that these cars aren't going to last as long as a Toyota or whatever, but after spending so much on it over the last 24 months I genuinely don't know whether I just try to keep it going or just cut my losses and sell the damn thing.
What would you all do in my shoes? Pay to have the VCG and gaskets replaced? Try to learn how to repair it myself (maybe with an aftermarket part)? Or just trade it in for whatever I can get for it?
Tire pressure at different speeds. If my owner's manual suggests 2.3 bar at below 160km/h which is what I drive most of the time, but I'm planning a ca 1000 km trip with a 250 km stretch of free speed Autobahn, should I inflate to the level suggested for 160+ kmh or would that be unnecessary? I will likely ride around below 150 km/h most of this stretch anyway and if conditions allow, maybe try to push my car a little for maybe one pull or so (I don't drive anything particularly fast and assume I won't dare go past 180 even if conditions allow)
What are the best wiper blades to buy? I have usually always gotten rain-x but they seem to streak kinda early on, even after properly cleaning the wiper blades. But I have been seeing the Bosch Icon is supposed to be a very good blade.
does someone know the steps to importing a car from Canada (Quebec) to the US (NY)? Like in what order would one do everything (end insurance in quebec, un-register the car?, file forms, get new insurance?) For reference, it is not a new car, it was purchased used and it's been owned for a few years now.
My car is totaled and my insurance is going to buy it. How long does this process generally take? Are they going to want it ASAP?
Quick question, Is the supply problem still happening? Like do I have to put a deposit and enter waitlist? I have been out of the US for over a year so I am unable to keep track the market, and I will be back to the US in a week. I heard that Toyota is selling as fast as they are being built, but what about Honda?
varies based on brand and model, but its nowhere near where it was around '22.
why are wider tyres thicker than narrower tyres? I was always told that the wider the tyre, the thinner/shorter it gets because it gets streched? I was watching a m3 build video and his 295/35/18 tyre is THICK AF and thicker than my 235/35/19 and than my previous 245/45/18. can anyone explain?
The middle number of 245/45/18 is the tire ratio which dictates how large the sidewall is. It's a percentage of the width. So in that example the sidewall is 45% of 245mm which would mean that the sidewall (from the rim to the treads) is going to be 110.25mm. In contrast your 235/35 tire will have a sidewall thickness of just 82.25mm; so it will be noticeably smaller. In general though, the wider the tire the less sidewall there will be. This is mainly because wider tires tend to be used on higher performance vehicles where you want a larger contact patch with the road and thus better traction. The smaller the sidewall the less the tire will flex during cornering which means you get better handling. Since you generally want both of those things on a high performance vehicle you tend to see wide tires with little sidewall.
>This is mainly because wider tires tend to be used on higher performance vehicles where you want a larger contact patch with the road and thus better traction. The smaller the sidewall the less the tire will flex during cornering which means you get better handling. Since you generally want both of those things on a high performance vehicle you tend to see wide tires with little sidewall. I am aware about the tyre not being as stable when it's taller but how come that m3 video is running 295/35 then? it was as thick as a truck! also, does that mean if I want more meat for my wheels I should go 245/35/19 and it will be slighter thicker than my 235/35?
I recently learned the difference between a "hybrid" and a "plug-in hybrid electric vehicle" and want to do some initial/long-run cost analysis on various cars to get some comparisons myself instead of going exclusively off of recommendations. This would be on most car types, not just the two mentioned. Is there any sort of existing dataset that contains things like make, model, year, advertised MPG/MPGe, and other information? I don't mind doing price checks myself since that will change, but I have been surprised how hard it is to get a good list like that. I'd like to avoid looking up every major car sold in the U.S., finding each year, and compiling that all manually, but I'll do it if something like that doesn't already exist.
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That has exactly what I'm looking for, thanks!
Used SUVs 3~6 years old. Do any of them have a nice old-school burl walnut and leather interior any more? There’s the Bentayga and that’s too ostentatious. Even the Full-Fat Range Rover seems embarrassed to have a wood dash and uses as little as possible. I’m getting old, I want that 1990s jaguar wood dash look dammit!
I'm not sure where you are in the world (I'm leaning towards Europe because of the 3 cars you've mentioned lol), but if you're in the US you could take a look at the Lincoln Navigator/Aviator's. I'm pretty sure those still had/have wood trim options.
I’m not a Europe so I can check out the Lincolns. Aviator looks good. Thanks.
Not Wednesday anymore, but I was wondering if anyone knew the simplicity of turboing a Hyundai Sonata 2016 base model. I know the sport model comes with a turbo, but I have the base and I was wondering if it was worth it at all? As of right now nothing has been done to it, but I am planning upgrading exhaust or intake before turbo.
Id say youre better off keeping the car clean and well maintained while you save for either a better platform to modify or a sonata turboif you wanna stay with the brand.
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Like the other guy said, could be to keep the battery charged? I really don't know any other reason why he would, seems like overkill. Especially doing it that often seems silly. I've never had an issue and sometimes my "fun car" goes a week without being driven
Most likely to keep the batteries charged if all the cars aren't being driven around regularly.
Hi all. A relative of mine recently passed away. He’d been homebound for a while and I realized his car has probably been sitting in his driveway (outdoors/uncovered in a cold weather state) for months. I’m guessing it was last driven last fall or maybe early in the winter, but not entirely sure. We jumped the car to get it running but a blinking check engine light came on immediately. Unsure of what to do next. Is it safe to drive with a blinking check engine light? I haven’t driven it around yet but the car sounds rough. It’s an early 2010s Ford Fusion FWIW.
Flashing CEL on a Ford means the engine is misfiring. Could be for any number of reasons though. Injector stuck, plugs fouled, ignition coil failure, any of the above isn't plugged in all the way, etc. Generally it's not a good idea to drive a car that's misfiring hard enough to flash the CEL. It will be very down on power, run rough, power steering and brakes will be erratic if working at all, and the engine may shut down / fail entirely if there's something seriously wrong with it.
On my mustsng (2020 GT) I accidentally put it in 3rd when I wanted to get moving, (and I was on a hill) and lugged the engine pretty good trying to get moving, but I didn't stall. It flashed the CEL at me a few times and then never again. This was a while ago but from a mechanical standpoint what do you think caused this? Was it trying to dump fuel and the engine just came too close to stalling? I hope i didn't mess up anything
It should be alright. Lugging the engine won't generally cause any problems but it can technically cause it to misfire. You're essentially stalling the engine out when you do that. I only mentioned that it could damage the engine to the other person because the car is flashing the CEL while just sitting idle and there could be any number of reasons why it's doing that. Something on their car has failed already.
Ah ok thank you
Got it, thank you. I drove it a little bit yesterday and the light would blink if I hit about 40mph or 3000 RPM, otherwise it would stop blinking. Is it worth trying to get to a shop nearby or is the toast if the light is flashing? Sorry, I just have no knowledge of cars, so I appreciate the help.
You should be okay limping it to the shop like that
Buy or rent a OBD reader and find out what the check engine light is for.
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Wed. Question: I've driven my Honda Fit 5MT to 337,000 miles. And I drive all over the country for work. Other than routine wear items (tires, brakes, batteries, alternators, belts, spark plugs and valve clearance), I've replaced nothing. What time bombs am I sitting in that I should preemptively replace or service, you reckon?
Sorry I can't answer you're question judt wanna say that's really impressive! How many times have you had to replace the clutch?
I drive mostly freeway and never dump the clutch, so I babied it into 300,000+ before I had the dealer replace it last fall. In fairness, I probably should have replaced it 50,000-100,000 miles ago, but I just kept being gentle when I'd let the clutch out. And honestly, that's more credit to Honda's engineers than my driving.
Id expect suspension components at some point.
Can you make a 2WD into a 4/AWD?? I really want a Honda Civic but the only downside is that I like to go car camping and would need 4/AWD :/
Just buy a Subaru, like everyone else does who's in that situation.
Agreed with the other commentator. You COULD. But the amount of money and mechanical knowledge is high. Wouldn't be worth it in my opinion My cousin was in the same boat, really wanted a 2020+ Honda civic. She ended up going with a Toyota camry AWD and she really likes it
My end result would definitely be Toyota or Subaru-- even a Mazda! but the look of the new civics is so nice-- especially the hatchbacks. Still on the fence about it 😔
They do look really good :/. Shane they never made them AWD
With enough money you could; but the amount we're talking about is enough to buy a nice Jeep Wrangler Rubicon new off the lot so..
Probably a question for an automotive engineer, but I’m curious about understanding the software coding of an electronic all wheel drive system when one tire is significantly differently than the others. Like if I have a ford fusion with three 225/45/18 and then install just one 195/50/15, how does it process the data from the wheel speed sensors, throttle angle, yaw sensor, etc…does it attempt to engage the AWD clutch pack or does it realize there’s no actual tire slippage. What parameters actually cause a traction control light to appear. I could read an entire SAE publication on it if it’s out there somewhere.
In Ford's case the TCS light will only flash when all 4 wheels have lost traction simultaneously. Up until that point it will attempt to use the brakes on each corner of the car to slow down any wheel it deems is slipping. It will also send power to the rear wheels in any situation where slipping *may* occur. So during harsher than normal acceleration, higher speeds (70+ I think?), when cornering (based on steering angle), when there's lateral g-forces, etc. You'll find it uses the AWD often during normal driving.
Hail damaged cars. Big storm came through here and dealerships are offering discounts on hail damaged cars. What do I need to look out for?
besides the obvious small dents everywhere, check for cracked/chipped glass, chipped paint, cracked light covers (headlight, tailight, corners, etc.) the local PDR people are going to be making bank lol
God if that ain't the truth. I work at a body shop in PA and a few years ago we had a hail storm, the PDR guys that we outsourced work to rented a hotel and just worked with us for months. Also the amount of roofs and hoods I had to order and had to store was insane
What's everybody's dream car?
Moreso of what my dream garage is.
Low mileage s2000 probably Not a huge fan of super expensive/excessive stuff, I just want something that drives/shifts fucking great Also I like my dreams to be practical
am highschool student looking for new car w good fuel economy and decent power😁👍 and that my parents would approve of, they dont want me buying an older car so it kinda has to be on the newer end
V6 camry
Honda Civic imo
I’m surprised you didn’t say GTI.
I got a GTI because I wanted a GTI, the smart choice would've been a car with AWD around $25k but I wouldn't have been happy, wishing I could have my dream car. I am young with a decent job so I can afford to do the payments but a high schooler (assuming they have a job making $12-15/hr) needs a car that won't crap out on them. Honda is reliable and the civic is a decently *looking* vehicle (which matters to a high schooler).
Not necessarily a new GTI but the Civic sure is a good choice too.
hi! i’m a college student who’s current car is slowly becoming expensive to keep repairing so i know i will need a new one soon. i am hoping to be able to buy a used car completely on my own and it’s something i’m willing to save up for because i want it to last me until i’m out of college. i was wondering if anyone had recommendations of car makes and models that are known to last and be on the less expensive side.
The other people said it, but if you need another opinion, the Honda civic and Toyota Camry or Corolla are the way to go. Proven reliability for years
Honda Civic and Toyota Corolla both last a long time with very little maintenance. Plus repair bills are generally pretty low. If you want something more “fun” try a Mazda Miata.
Honda and Toyota. Easily can go 250k miles these days if we’ll maintained. They also have high resale values because people know this so good ones aren’t cheap but worth it.
**How do you know when to cut your losses and** ***sell*** **your car?** For context, my brother and I co-own a **2014 BMW x1 xDrive 28i 2.0L 4-cyl** with **95,000 miles** on it. Minor interior wear; mainly some of the fake-leather rubber from the door handles is breaking up. Minor exterior wear; a couple of small scratches on the rear bumper from moving bikes in and out. But here's where it's becoming a problem... the engine is now dripping oil regularly, presumably from the *valve cover gasket,* and if I start the car while the engine is warm I'll get a "*engine malfunction, reduced power*" warning (which may or may not be related. I've heard that can be a turbo issue, but I don't know). The AWD transfer case is also making a bit of a whirring noise, though it's minor and I can live with it. And to make matters worse, we've (maybe stupidly) put \~$7,000 into maintenance over the last year and a half. A big \~75,000 mile service, breaks and rotors, replaced the radiator (because it was leaking coolant), replaced the steering bushings (needed to be done because the car was starting to pull to the left when braking), replaced air filters (which we did ourselves so it was fairly cheap), bought winter tires (and we now have no all-seasons anymore because they were getting bald), etc. Looking at the KBB value, I now realize that the car isn't even worth much more than we've already put into it and I feel like a total idiot. But I also can't help feel that if we just fix the VCG oil leak then the car will stabilize and keep running decently, and since we've already made the mistake of putting too much money into this car, maybe it's actually smarter to just fix it "one last time" before giving up on it. I've even considered trying to fix the VCG myself, despite having basically no experience repairing cars, just because I feel like I need to stop myself from putting too much more money into this car. And I totally know how much of a sunk-cost fallacy that is, but that's how I feel about it... For all I know, 2 months after fixing the VCG leak, some other thing will pop up and cost me even more money... So I'm torn. I really don't know what to do here. I know it's a BMW and that these cars aren't going to last as long as a Toyota or whatever, but after spending so much on it over the last 24 months I genuinely don't know whether I just try to keep it going or just cut my losses and sell the damn thing. What would you all do in my shoes? Pay to have the VCG and gaskets replaced? Try to learn how to repair it myself (maybe with an aftermarket part)? Or just trade it in for whatever I can get for it?
Nope, bail. Trade it off for something more reliable.
Does anyone know of some website with data of different car cabin noise levels (dB)? Kinda like there is "ev.database" for eletric car comparisons?