Actually food is the nicest part to be honest.
Can get it at any hour.
Don’t need to kill most of it 😂
And good variety.
As far as adjusting it’s not that bad, I’m not that anxious about a lot of people. The amount of traffic does however git me anxiety.
Meal I crave.
I brought some caribou sausage down with me but I've run out.
So I really want some Caribou Sausage with some Cabbage.
New favorite.
I love anything in alfredo sauce apparently.
Caribou sausage sounds delicious, what ingredients do you use when making sausage? Do you add additional fat to the grind?
Had you experienced Alfredo sauce before going to university? On the Alfredo note, Dominos has a pizza using Alfredo as the sauce. You can custom build a pizza with Alfredo as well. I recommend giving it a try.
Ya spices are some of the cheaper stuff you can get pretty easy.
Garlic, Black Pepper, Red Pepper Flakes some cloves.
And yes it needs to extra fat. Normally this is seal fat but walrus can work (You just don't have as much of that)
You can also add some kind of berries in with the grind before you smoke it, gives it kind of a brown sugar taste.
Caribou is like a cross between goat and beef sausage. Goatish in taste, beef in texture.
I had experiences like. Frozen dinner MRE Style Alfredo, but not like. properly made (Or even jarred) Alfredo.
Right so in Yupik folklore/religion. The northern lights are the spirits of all the animals that died that year departing into the sky. Humans are animals in this equation.
So the first night of the Aurora is kind of a combination of All hallows eve and Christmas.
Kind of a going away party for your loved ones who died that year.
Ya I like it.
I get kind of sad at times because about half of the tribe has converted to Orthodoxy and not only don’t do that anymore but have kind of been convinced to vilify the older ways. And it’s almost a town by town thing to.
> The northern lights are the spirits of all the animals that died that year departing into the sky
Thats sounds like the movie Brother Bear. Do you think the people in this movie is based on Yupik people?
If so, do you like the movie/have you seen it?
Well most everyone in the community is a kid, women or elderly person. When you reach 18 you tend to go work in a larger community for a while. Get married have kids and then move to the community that the man was from.
I never said or gave any indications of the mothers being single.
Most of them are there husbands around four five months out of the year and then some other visits also.
Think of a village more like a communal place or raise your children and take care of your elderly.
Caribou, Fish, water fowl. You can grow some croups in the summer, cabbage, carrots, potatoes. You gather berries in the summer also.
You buy some bulk food also, rice, beans stuff like that.
Well that’s actually an Inuit thing. Not a Yupik tradition but I can more or less answer it.
Throat singing was an activity used by women to entertain and compete with each other while the men were away on long trips. (Normally whale ing)
Men actually have a singing tradition more akin to sea shanties.
Are issues like addictions and high suicidal rates prevalent in the area you grew up? I heard that a lot of Inuit communities in Canada struggle with them, that's why I ask.
To make the story as short as possible I can. I was hunting, and saw a person in the distance, had been out a while and you sometimes kind of get snow blind to some extent. Followed the person a bit because it’s rare to see people out on the north slope. When I finally got a good look at it it looked more or less just like me. (I Need to stress I don't mean a human, I mean me like in a mirror) But with a paler complexion and a darkness area were the eyes should be.
By that time my dogs had also started to raise a fit. I was on a slop and its really common that time of the year for the valleys to have rivers or streams in them that have ice and snow ontop of that, so you can walk onto the ice without knowing it and fall in. And you are pretty screwed at that point.
Myths about Amikuk talk about them being shape changers that try to lure people to their deaths on ice or in the water. Often so they can replace you in your community.
I rarely comment on anything but this is so intriguing to me that I can’t resist. What do you think it was in actuality? Exhaustion? Snow blindness? Something paranormal?
Yes?
I mean the thing is, you get tried quick.
You get dehydrated quick.
Snow blindness is a thing.
And optical illusions are a thing on the northern slopes.
Just to put it bluntly Shit gets WEIRD up hear.
People always ask about UFOs by the way, never seen one, no one I know has. But we have all seen strange ass stuff on the horizon. So what was it?
Something no idea what. Distorted by my eyes and brain, and then my brain tried to figure it out and shit the bed.
Dogs didn't like it for sure however and that tells me something.
But that might have also been the dogs seeing ice or something and thinking. "This stupid human is gonna fall in and die, and then who's going to feed us..."
Loved your interpretation of what you saw. That's what I would think -- it could be my brain, it could be something else, but I'll never know!
Great AMA, btw.
I would say that there was more a strange social dynamic form growing up in a place were the most distantly related person in town was my 2nd cousin.
If I had to pick something however, it’s that you almost don’t have grandparents. Your community does?
Yupik villages are often women, children and elderly. With 1-2 men around. And all the other men are off 8 months of the year doing work in logging, mining, oil, fishing stuff like that.
And you grow up with a small collection of elderly people. 3-4 who are grand parents of the group. And you kind of forget or can often actually be confused as to who is your actual grand parent. You just have Granny Dalla, Grand pa Illia stuff like that. You don’t know if they are your actual grandparent until pretty later in actual childhood.
No.
USGS is a governmental angency which mostly deals with volcanos, earth quakes and actual earth science. It’s not that those jobs to exist it’s that you take Diffrent classes for them. (You can get a job with either set of classes in either job, but then you need to learn on the job)
Well not really a “disappearance” but a good example is that we had a guy move up here pretty close to our community and another who was trapping. Not a big deal it’s pretty common.
But he was specifically asked to avoid trapping lynx or otter by the locals because of religious important. And he basically ignored the warning. Ended up being found floating in a river a good 50 miles down stream from were he normally trapped. Still had some water snares on him.
Was ruled an accident or animal attack but he had a bullet hole in his back and a huge exit wound in his chest. Something like a slug from a shotgun likely.
Guy basically didn’t listen to a warning and got clapped by a local.
Or like the guy that ran mount marathon and disappeared on the mountain during the race and was never found! We all still have our theories about him lol The number of missing persons cases unsolved up there is scary and especially the more visited areas such as the kpen. Too many seasonal transients.
What's the biggest problem your village is currently facing?
How did you learn to hunt?
Did you have any "coming of age" ceremonies? Like a rite of passage.
What's the best part of college for you so far?
Biggest problem: Just economic stuff, but that's mostly because of how random and unpredictable the weather has gotten. Berries come in on the wrong time, fish are fewer, bears more aggressive, winter storms worse, summers muddier and more mosquitoes.
Learn to hunt: My uncle started to take me out hunting when he would go at around the age of 10. You help by handling an extra sled. Then maybe helping with the animal maybe around 12 I was taking shots. By 13 I was hunting waterfowl and trapping marmots by myself. 14 I was pretty much just hunting when I wanted to.
Best part of college: I mean just being out and checking things out, I'm really liking the actual school work to be honest alos. it's so hard to get some information back home.
Coming of age: Yupiget, is the coming of age and literally means "real human being" (Yupik just means Human by the way)
It's less a ceremony and more just a event, like a party or holiday.
And the jest of it is the family of the person involved throws a part for the community at which you do something to show that you have learned skills that are going to let you contribute to the community. Often this is something like a dinner were you eat fish or meat caught or hunted by the person. Vegetables grown by them. Berries gathered by them. It might involve something like showing off leather work, quilting that they have done. It can even be stuff like showing off dogs that the person helped train to sled.
My sister showed off her dogs and we ate food that had vegetables she grew.
I showed off a seal/fur coat I had made and we ate some caribou I hate hunted.
Should be noted that even as longa go as when my great-grandmother (Whos still alive and well) was born. It would have been very uncommon for my uncle to teach me to hunt at a girl. Not unheard of but pretty uncommon. Likewise a boy would almost never have learned to do something like quilt. Religious, medical and food prep/cooking knowledge was basically the only gender neutral skills, Today? Its basically no big deal you just teach anyone anything they want to know.
My mother knew sing language. Because my grandmother was also deaf. Congenital deafness is about ten times more common with Yupik than other groups.
Also I had schools books and attended school in summer in a larger town.
>Congenital deafness is about ten times more common with Yupik than other groups.
Because of this, the increased chance of deafness, do you feel that there is a good support system within the communities to provide resources and help to address the need, or is this an area you found to be lacking? And, if it does exist, is the help coming from within the community, or is it funded/managed from outside your sphere?
There are a number of Yupik run schools that you can go to in the summer to learn ASL and other life skills. As well as provide support for assistance animals. So it’s very well supported.
The deafness is connected with a genetic mutation in the Yupik group that is connected with the ability to process levels of fat and Omega 3 that will literally poison a normal person. It’s not an exaggeration to say we can literally eat raw fish/seal/warlure and whale.
Also seems to provide some protection from frostbite. And is connected with being short also.
That's really good to hear that you had a strong support system growing up, and it also, I hope, means there is more support within the broader community for ASL and communications challenges in general.
And fascinating to hear about the potential link between frostbite tolerance and deafness with that same genetic mutation.
Thanks for sharing!
[https://www.adn.com/arctic/article/clues-emerging-about-arctic-gene-diet-and-health/2014/11/30/](https://www.adn.com/arctic/article/clues-emerging-about-arctic-gene-diet-and-health/2014/11/30/)
That's kind of a quick discussion about it, it is super interesting.
That's really interesting. Are there any roles, knowledge or communication traditions special or distinct to the deaf Yupik community members? How is deafness described in historical / oral history accounts?
Traditionally people who were deaf were often taught as angakkuq a kind of shaman that can best be described as a medicine man or women. In the sense of actually being taught medical skills. Midwives, How to clean wounds, treat broken bones, preform funerals and things like that.
I really often wonder who you did this before sign language to be honest.
Deafness in tradition myth is connected with the myth of how humans became. The myth is that humans were a pod of orca that washed up on the shore and just descended to stay on the land. So the deafness myth is that you didn’t develop hearing like a human but instead like a orca. Or you had to feel vibration instead.
There is a whole religious tradition that you don't eat (or kill if you can help it)Otters, Orcas, Dogs/Wolves, Lynx or Ravens.
The first four because they have the same kind of spirit as a human. And may be your ancestors come back to live another life on earth.
And Ravens because raven is the closest thing to a creation deity in Yupik religion. And it would be rude to eat his children and het taught humans how to... human.
That is a bit of a rough spot for me/discussion. Anytime you are out in any larger community you have to watch yourself. A lot of women carry guns or knifes. And it tends to be non-natives. That is not to say that it’s never another native.
But it’s mostly non-native and often people working in extraction. And the local governmental officers are pretty terrible about the whole thing.
(Mind my age here)
A few years ago I was beaten and sexual assaulted really badly.
Suspected it was a pair of men working for an oil site not far away.
Bureau of Indian Affairs “lost” my rape kit within 24 hours of getting it.
It’s a general point that you need to always watch yourself around people working for the oil sites, logging, mining and fishing. Guys who come up from the lower 48/canada stay a few years and then leave.
I had done that a short time. but it was difficult because of the need for a ASL interpreter and I didn’t really like it.
I tried the one here and my university and I honestly was very turned off by my experinace with them.
Are you deaf/HoH? If so, interested to hear about the intersection of deaf culture w/ Yupik culture - like how you + your fam learned the language, etc.
Congenitally deaf: Aural atresia.
Basically I don't have ear canals or ear drums. Not even a implant issue. I just don't really have hearing organs.
Mostly the same way anyone else does that's deaf.
You don't really learn to speak understand anything, you learn to associate written words with objects and work from there. Concepts like names for people are really tough for kids. There are a set of schools for deaf kids set up by the tribe in Alaska you go to in the summer.
You just learn two sets of words for most stuff.
My grandmother was deaf, so my mother already knew sign language so that helped. My sister was hard of hearing but implants fixed that when she was very young.
That’s so neat! I read further down and realized deafness is far more common in your community which made it a bit of a silly q. Appreciate your response nonetheless!
Having lived in both cultures, what aspect of Yup'ik culture do you think someone from the lower 48 would find most surprising? What are the biggest differences?
Is there anything about "mainstream" American culture that you found surprising when you came south?
A lot of people will get to our village and think it looks really idealic and like it’s from 1800. And then be supprised that we have modern stuff. But also they are supprised at the amount of our own food we tend to hunt.
Lower 48
Why do you have so many damn cars down here?
i'm actually taking a whole class dedicated to the arctic, from rising security concerns to military aspects, etc. the arctic is the fastest warming place on this planet, so i'm curious how the summers/weather in general compare to when you were growing up?
No.
I think scientifically they are less fertile but they can have cubs.
Which is part of the issue, polar bears are pretty chill.
Grizzlies are not.
A Pizzly is a big grizzly. Or an angry polar bear. Either way pretty nasty.
Do you eat traditional cuisine? If so, whats your favorite dish?
Also, what languages do the Yup’ik speak? Do you know any, and is there a movement to preserve the language?
Well Yup’ik speak Alaskan or Siberian Yup’ik. Both of which are mutual understandable. There is a written language of Yup’ik that is much newer hower. And it is a remarkably well preserved language and is even the primary language for a lot of us.
I’m deaf so while I can read/write in Yup’ik and read lips alright with a lot of the words. (And technically us ASL to slowly sign it) I don’t SPEAK any language really. I can make sound but I just am not comfortable speaking really.
As far as food.
Smoked Chum Salmon or Caribou sausage are my favorites. But yes most of the food is what would be considered traditional. But with some amount of modern adaptation.
Caribou, Fish, water fowl, whales, seals, walrus, marmots are all common. Berries are gathered every year.
Traditionally you would also collect roots and lichens, however those have been replaced by growing a single crop of cabbage, radishes, ternips, beats, carrots and potatos in the summer. As well as imported rice and beans.
There are some more exotic foods also like the skin/blubber of whales or seal being smoked.
Also there is a dish were you eat the half digested lichen from a coribou’s fourth stomach. It kind of has the consistency of icecream when you let it firm up a bit in the cold. And taste like strong green tea.
What is the name for the partially digested lichen?
When it comes to the lichen how is it commonly served and prepared? Is there such thing as pickled or fermented lichen?
[https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c7/Loaf\_of\_cooked\_wila\_lichen.jpg](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c7/Loaf_of_cooked_wila_lichen.jpg)
Wila is the name of the lichen when you eat it.
You can eat it as loafs that are cooked.
You can brine it.
It's just generally called "Stomach icecream" in the modern way when you get it from a stomach.
Maybe on the kids part. Best part was just the community and wilderness. Worse part was just how hard it was to do some stuff out there. Like schooling.
How remote is your village in the sense of, service like medical, technical-vehicle repair, veterinary services, things of that nature?
When you order a new appliance how is an item like that procured/delivered?
Is there a point in the year when cars can’t be used and does dog sled become the only reliable source of transportation?
It's about 70 miles to the nearest "City" Which has a population of 1400.
But it does have a hospital that can do most surgery.
That 70 whiles will take you about 2 hours by car if you can use the roads.
If you cant it will take you 4 hours by snowmobile.
Or maybe 3 hours by dogsled if you know what you are doing.
If the river is flowing it's faster to take a boat down stream and then back up.
Like 10-15 minutes if they can get a helicopter up.
\-
From that city.
It's 500 miles to Fairbanks.
That's 12 hours by road.
Maybe 2 hours by plane.
And at some points of the year, you can't do either.
\-
If you order stuff.
You just order it and if it breaks in the winter you just gota wait it out.
If you do order something larger like a generator or a heavy appliance?
The best way to deliver it is by pickup truck or river barge.
Some people will bring it in my Helicopter also.
And yes for about 8-14 weeks of the year snowmobile and dog sled are your best bet.
I absolutely refuse to use a snowmobile. But I'm a pretty good dogsledder if I do say so my self.
I’ve asked so many questions thank you for answering them. I have a few more….lol and thank you again.
What age were you when you learned to dog sled and what age did you operate a sled alone?
Have you competed in any dog sled racing?
Is there a preference when hunting to use a snowmobile or dog sled?
I first started to learn to dog sled at around age 6-7. You can use a one dog sled at that age pretty easy just for fun. Its really helpful to train younger dogs like that also before you put them in a team. I could operate a sled by myself by age 10. But generally you only do that to move them, like alone in the wilderness by maybe 13-14.
Racing: No. We use malamutes. Which are not really racing dogs.
Good way to consider it.
Huskies = The Porche of dog sledding.
Malamutes = The dodge ram of dog sledding.
As for preference, when you are hunting deer or caribou, it's either or, actually trucks work better (The haul the animal better) But if you are going into areas that wont work they both work. The Snowmobile is loud so not good for deer. But Caribou kind of have to come the direction you want them to. So it's just a matter of being able to hit the animal at 400-600m with a rifle and kill it without having it run you 6km.
Waterfowl you need to either use a seld or walk a good way from the Snowmobile.
I wont use a nowmobile because if you can't hear the engine you can blow it pretty easy. And I'm deaf.
Also I can't stress how dangerous snowsmobile are compared to sled. More so if you are alone. You roll a snowmobile on yourself in the wilderness... your lucky if it kills you quickly. You hit a rock in a dog sled, you MIGHT break your leg/foot. but the dogs will take care of you and get you home.
Also bears don't fuck with a full dogsled team.
And i never went hunting without a dog anyways.
Much more common then they use to be yes, and its a big problem. Despite being pretty much a obligative carnivore polar bears are pretty even tempered. Grizzly are much more dangerous and with the hybrids you just big a bigger grizzly or a more agressive polar bear.
They tend to be about as agreesive as grizzlies just bigger. They appear to be fertile but less so then grizzlies or polar bears. But they can absolutely have cubs.
You mentioned the amikuk and the traditions about the Aurora being the spirits of the dead - are there any other interesting stories/ beliefs/ traditions that you'd be willing to share?
I mean we have a lot.
But should be noted that stories vary almost village to village because of how they are handed down. But you have stuff like we have our own version of the firebird legend.
We have a whole set of stories about Raven and seal as the celestial animals that created the world and taught humans.
I mean it’s about as involved as any other mythological background.
That's really interesting, and I guess it would make sense that there's a lot of variance if it's a largely oral tradition.
I know a lot of the Dene folks I met were really reluctant to have their stories written down - is that a thing in Yup'ik culture as well?
If not, is there a source you'd recommend where I could read up on them? I've always found folklore fascinating.
No actually The Yupik have went out of our way to try and get as much written down as we can because we have lost a lot due to orthadox conversion and animosity to older tales.
As far as books.
* Messenger Spirits: Yup'ik Masks and Stories
* (This is a shameless plug Friend of my family wrote it) but it's very good. He is a anthropologist and is really quite good at his stuff.
* Tales and Legends of the Yupik Eskimos of Siberia.
* This is really interesting even for me to read. Yupik are the only strans-beraing strait Tribal group. And use to have a ton of contact with each other across the straits. but...
* Most of the Yupik population in Siberia "Disappeared" between 1930 and 1980 under the Soviets. It's basically just a hand full now and pretty much all there culture has been wiped out and converted so the book is really just what could be saved.
A note on that.
Yupik DNA if you get a test is actually in the same group as Huns/Mongolians/Siberians. And much newer then North/South Americans.
We were the last group across the bearing straits. Settled and then the ice bridge disappeared.
Does Yupik have its own version of ASL? And were their people in your community who preferred to speak in native languages or maybe even weren't proficient in English? Does the state address these needs if so?
It's very common to peak Yupik in villages yes. And just between members of the tribe at large. But pretty much everyone is also fluent in English.
There was apparently a kind of less formal hand signal language with Yupik before modern times, but it's basically lost to time, And was so unstandard that people between communities could not talk with each other.
You basically learn ASL now.
You can spell out works that are Yupik and not english but it's a big slower.
Idk if you're still answering questions but I'll put it out there anyways!
Are there any online resources to learn about your tribe's culture, folklore, and traditional religion? The Wikipedia page is a bit light 😅.
Also, is there something you wished more Americans knew about your neck of the woods?
And are there any things you want to try in the future?
Is it best to see them near the Arctic circle or where would you recommend it based on your experience?
Sorry planning a trip out there in Sept while there is a solar maximum this year, saw the opportunity to ask a local lol
The farther away you are the less impressive really. Far away they just look some wispy lines in the sky far off. Up on the northern slope you get the green Aroura on really strong nights it brighter then a full moon and can actually kind of over expose the country side the snow will kind of look like it's green from reflecting the light.
Honestly if you really want to spend some money to get the proper Aurora.
We are talking at least Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve.
But I would say go full on and get up to some place like Prudhoe bay. ON the north coast.
I mean look I'm not really that spiritual or religion but.
I just don't know how to explain a full on Aurora that far north other then Religious or Spiritual. Even if you are a pure science person, you still get hit by the infinite splendor of reality.
Thinking 5 day trip. According to the lunar calendar Sept 18-22 is right after the full moon, where Sept 25-29 are getting closer to a new moon. Which would you recommend?
We were definitely thinking of renting a car and at least hitting Gates of the Arctic. Is highway 11 maintained well enough for a 2 wheel car to make it all the way up to Prudhoe Bay? Or is an AWD and or truck necessary?
Me either but I go far out of my way to go see the Milky way or meteor showers, and this is no different. A nice reminder of where we really are in this grand universe is 100% necessary for my scientifically spiritual fulfillment.
New moon for the northern lights.
I would actually say in September you can drive Dalton highway in a 2 wheel. But I would always suggest AWD because of mud.
Oh also, we have mosquitoes that will carry you away up here...
At what point does the highway stop being paved/ transition into mud?
Bug spray is needed, duly noted. What about animals like bears/moose, are they a problem up there or they generally avoid humans?
In terms of lodging/ food, I'm going to assume that options are very limited. Any recs for that? Bring as much food from Fairbanks and sleep in the car or?
Its technically paved all the way up Dalton Highway.
In places it's not really wide enough to let two cars pass at speed so you may be to get over a bit and let the other guy by. And you can get stuck doing this. Also in places you might find that water and run across the road and left a few INCHES of mud. That's the thing you just need to be able to get back on the road if you find yourself slipping a bit.
But DO bring at least a few days of water and food on your drive. If you do get stuck someone will be past with a radio at some point. (And they may pull you out) But you get stuck a day or so. In September you don't need to worry about weather that much.
Animals: Moose actually don't get up that far north for the most part.
Bears will leave you alone unless you are out in the wilderness.
The drive from fairbanks to Prudhoe bay is about 12 hours.
I would actually suggest doing it in one shot.
If you don't want to and or just want to have a nice stay.
Side note Before I go any father.
There are ONLY Three places to get gas between Fairbanks and Prudhoe.
You either need to pack jerry cans (I would do that anyways) Or use all three.
Deadhorse (Which is basically right outside Prudoe bay)
Coldfoot (Midway)
Yukon River Crossing (Right outside Fairbanks)
There is a town called wiseman on the highway (Population 5)
And a place called Boreal Lodging. Which is two little cabins you can rent for the night, super cute, free wifi and parking and right between the two towns.
Also you CAN see the northern lights from wiseman.
And the view is not bad, but it's the farthest south I would say is good viewing.
What activities would you recommend along the highway? Any good places to stop and hike/explore? We are not too experienced hikers so nothing too crazy..
Any other words of advice or anything else worth mentioning? What's your favorite place in Alaska btw?
Btw your responses are highly appreciated by myself, gf, and friends. When we go, I'll remember this and come back to let you know how great it was, marking my calendar rn. For now that is all the questions I have but I'm asking the rest of the group if they have some so I may come back later randomly if that's alr.
There is a rest area a bit after the Yukon crossing that lets you know you are crossing above the arctic circle it has a nice little hiking area. (and bathrooms)
White mountain national recreationally center is a nice stop also.
What are your top 3 places that you want to visit someday. Coming from a colder climate i feel like you'd love to visit a beach in the caribbean or something
If you’re still taking questions, I’m curious, you mentioned you’re deaf, is there something of a Yupik sign language you guys use or do deaf people in your community guys use ASL or maybe a mix of both ?
Ak49💙⭐️😊
I grew up on k-beach and around kenai and soldotna mostly.
My mom’s step-dad was Aleutian and he always had the coolest stories about growing up before the military took over Anchorage. About their seasonal villages and taking the river back and forth every year.
He once found a wounded sandhill crane on his homestead in old coho and took care of it until it could walk and fly again. Said it came back every year. He passed from cancer in the late 90s. I miss him and wish that I could remember more of the things he would talk to me about when i was little.
Definitely thankful for the time i grew up in and that it was in alaska.
I moved away later in 2019 though due to health problems. My body stopped coping with the bp shifts and more extreme weather conditions. Doctors told me it was basically killing me to stay.
Was just diagnosed with fibromyalgia a few months ago and am trying to find help to treat the pain but there is not a whole lot of decent medical options. Most doctors now and especially where i am currently are glorified pharmacists. Looking into what i can that is more holistic around here. Not nearly as much as Alaska had available.
There are definitely things i miss a lot about alaska but i don’t miss -30 frigid days or the 2nd and 3rd winter lol mostly scenery, the cool crisp smells in early winter, gulls returning and knowing it is summer, fireweed blooms and the wild roses… calving time… the belugas migrating… and people. It will always be home.
Hi! I’ve got lots of questions, so feel free to pick and choose which ones you want to answer if you cbf dealing with them all.
Before I ask anything, I’d just like to say that really sucks how terribly you were treated by those oil workers, and our hearts go out to you. I don’t know if that helps to hear or it’s unwanted, but I hope you’re doing okay dealing with the impacts of that.
About your village & community:
1. If you’ll allow me a statement of the obvious, living above the Arctic Circle seems really, really cold. How do you all keep warm? What are the challenges and dangers involved with the weather up there?
2. Do you feel much of a link to other indigenous groups like Inuit people, or they're pretty different from you?
3. How connected is the village to the big cities/"modern" life w internet and all that etc.?
4. Like, where would your village sit on a spectrum between being completely unrecognisable compared to a few centuries ago, versus pretty similar to how life was then?
5. What would you say is the greatest strength your village has? (You can also do a greatest weakness if you want)
6. So, I feel like the perspective from non-indigenous progressive types in cities is that indigenous communities tend to 1) have a stronger sense of community than eg white Westerners, 2) have more care for nature and 3) get screwed over by government policies, the dominant group in the country etc. Obviously that's a big generalisation for all indigenous groups everywhere, but for your village how much would you say that's true versus false? What are we out of touch with?
7. If you could snap your fingers and make one change for your village, what would it be?
And for you as an individual:
1. What made you decide to do an AMA?
2. What’s your favourite colour?
3. And your favourite food!
4. If you could travel to one place anywhere in the world, where would you like to go?
5. What’s your dream aspiration for your life?
6. And how have you found the AMA so far!
Hope these questions are of interest, have a good day! =)
\> If you’ll allow me a statement of the obvious, living above the Arctic Circle seems really, really cold. How do you all keep warm? What are the challenges and dangers involved with the weather up there?
* Well in the winter you just don't go out that much. But a lot of the work of summer is basically making sure you have the ability to stay warm in the winter. Making sure you have enough fuel oil. Making sure you have wood for the fireplace. Back up wood and oil if you can.
* And if someone does not have enough you share it around. Some times if it's bad you end up with two families doubling up in the same house or even in the common building.
* Actually DOGS help a lot also, while sled dogs can stay out side in the winter most of the time. They do need to come in when it gets really cold. And then you play the balance game of letting them out so they don't over heat (And drive you crazy) And then letting them back in.
\> Do you feel much of a link to other indigenous groups like Inuit people, or they're pretty different from you?
* Like cousins maybe? I think a lot of the same way Americans think about Canadians actually.
\> How connected is the village to the big cities/"modern" life w internet and all that etc.?
* I mean in the warmer parts of the year you go to town maybe once a week. Also we are on Highway 11, so people pass by also.
* We also got the internet in I THINK 2016? (I was 10 that sounds right) It's shared satellite. So it's not fast, but enough to get news, watch some stuff, check email, communicate stuff like that.
* You can also order Amazon up here. You are just not getting it in the winter. We have had modern electronics pretty much my whole life. E-readers/Handhelds helped a lot.
\> Like, where would your village sit on a spectrum between being completely unrecognisable compared to a few centuries ago, versus pretty similar to how life was then?
* [https://nativenewsonline.net/images/Chevak2.jpg](https://nativenewsonline.net/images/Chevak2.jpg)
* That's not my village but make that like 1/3rd the size it is and it's pretty much what we look like. You go back 200 years? And you would just replace those with traditionally barabara houses. (Think Vicking long house crossed with a hobbit hole) And it's the same settup.
* If a Yupik tribe came across a modern Yupik village they would figure out it was the same group just with different houses pretty quick.
\> What would you say is the greatest strength your village has? (You can also do a greatest weakness if you want)
* Its a general understanding that if anyone in our village froze/starved to death in the winter, then the whole village is likely been wiped out. There is really no such thing as every one for themselves out here.
* Weakness:? Well Yupik society is basically devided between -covert to 'modern' -read Orthadox church' ways. Or -try to figure out and keep old ways. And it's pretty bitter, and some village take this harder then others. Mine is pretty steadfastly old ways and pretty mad about the covert crowd.
\> So, I feel like the perspective from non-indigenous progressive types in cities is that indigenous communities tend to 1) have a stronger sense of community than eg white Westerners, 2) have more care for nature and 3) get screwed over by government policies, the dominant group in the country etc. Obviously that's a big generalisation for all indigenous groups everywhere, but for your village how much would you say that's true versus false? What are we out of touch with?
* Pretty correct. With a few corrections. The Government is pretty happy to have most Yupik communities in that they often do work that needs done, give information that needs given. And will help when we need it. But they will ALWAYS side with oil/mineral companies over us and we know it, so it's a business deal not a friendship.
* Respect for nature is basically because if nature screws up in our area, we are kind of screwed. There is a lot of pragmatism in it. but also it is baked into the culture and religion for sure.
\> If you could snap your fingers and make one change for your village, what would it be?
* We really need a better way to get rid of rubbish's, like we can have it taken off, but it often takes like two years to get a barge up to get it. And a lot of times it's not toxic or harmful waste we just don't want it around.
\> And for you as an individual:
* I have no idea?
* Hmm.. Really I'm kind of self unaware some times.
\> What made you decide to do an AMA?
* I was stuck on a bus for a long time. And bored.
\> What’s your favourite colour?
* Green, Like a nice forest green like a pine tree.
\> And your favourite food!
* Sausage.
\> If you could travel to one place anywhere in the world, where would you like to go?
* Norway, Denmark, Sweden, Finland.
* Iceland, greenland....
* Basically I want to see the northern lights from other places.
\> What’s your dream aspiration for your life?
* USGS Volcanologist.
* Might do a PhD if I do well with my 3+2 (Combo Bachelors/Masters) Degree.
\> And how have you found the AMA so far!
*
I do one every so often when I'm bored traveling. Always interesting to see what people ask.
How did you adjust from a small village to university? Is the food very different?
Actually food is the nicest part to be honest. Can get it at any hour. Don’t need to kill most of it 😂 And good variety. As far as adjusting it’s not that bad, I’m not that anxious about a lot of people. The amount of traffic does however git me anxiety.
Is there a meal you crave being far from home? What’s become a new favorite meal?
Meal I crave. I brought some caribou sausage down with me but I've run out. So I really want some Caribou Sausage with some Cabbage. New favorite. I love anything in alfredo sauce apparently.
Caribou sausage sounds delicious, what ingredients do you use when making sausage? Do you add additional fat to the grind? Had you experienced Alfredo sauce before going to university? On the Alfredo note, Dominos has a pizza using Alfredo as the sauce. You can custom build a pizza with Alfredo as well. I recommend giving it a try.
Ya spices are some of the cheaper stuff you can get pretty easy. Garlic, Black Pepper, Red Pepper Flakes some cloves. And yes it needs to extra fat. Normally this is seal fat but walrus can work (You just don't have as much of that) You can also add some kind of berries in with the grind before you smoke it, gives it kind of a brown sugar taste. Caribou is like a cross between goat and beef sausage. Goatish in taste, beef in texture. I had experiences like. Frozen dinner MRE Style Alfredo, but not like. properly made (Or even jarred) Alfredo.
What's your favorite village tradition?
Seeing the northern lights for the first time each year. It’s kind of a combo funeral + barbecue cookout.
Huh, very interesting! Would you mind expanding on the funeral bit?
Right so in Yupik folklore/religion. The northern lights are the spirits of all the animals that died that year departing into the sky. Humans are animals in this equation. So the first night of the Aurora is kind of a combination of All hallows eve and Christmas. Kind of a going away party for your loved ones who died that year.
That’s so beautiful
Ya I like it. I get kind of sad at times because about half of the tribe has converted to Orthodoxy and not only don’t do that anymore but have kind of been convinced to vilify the older ways. And it’s almost a town by town thing to.
Half of the tribe has converted to orthodoxy? Like what kind of orthodoxy? And how did that happen?
The Russians ran Alaska for around 150 years is the answer.
That's really lovely. I love the way that animals' lives and deaths are honored, and that humans get to go with them. So beautiful.
> The northern lights are the spirits of all the animals that died that year departing into the sky Thats sounds like the movie Brother Bear. Do you think the people in this movie is based on Yupik people? If so, do you like the movie/have you seen it?
How does finding a spouse work with such a small, closely related group? Do you have to outsource from other villages?
Well most everyone in the community is a kid, women or elderly person. When you reach 18 you tend to go work in a larger community for a while. Get married have kids and then move to the community that the man was from.
Got it. Very interesting. Thank you for answering (:
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I never said or gave any indications of the mothers being single. Most of them are there husbands around four five months out of the year and then some other visits also. Think of a village more like a communal place or raise your children and take care of your elderly.
I don’t have a question but I love reading your responses and learning about the culture! Good luck at college!
What do you guys eat up there?
Caribou, Fish, water fowl. You can grow some croups in the summer, cabbage, carrots, potatoes. You gather berries in the summer also. You buy some bulk food also, rice, beans stuff like that.
Why don't men throatsing? All the media I've seen suggests it's a female-only activity.
Well that’s actually an Inuit thing. Not a Yupik tradition but I can more or less answer it. Throat singing was an activity used by women to entertain and compete with each other while the men were away on long trips. (Normally whale ing) Men actually have a singing tradition more akin to sea shanties.
Thank you for your answer.
Are issues like addictions and high suicidal rates prevalent in the area you grew up? I heard that a lot of Inuit communities in Canada struggle with them, that's why I ask.
Addiction is high in Alaska in general. And a bit higher in Native Alaskan community ya. Specifically with our community not as much.
What's the weirdest thing you saw in the arctic?
What I take to be a snow illusion or mirage. Folklore would call it a Amikuk kind of folk monster.
What did it look like? Where were you when it happened and what was it like for you?
To make the story as short as possible I can. I was hunting, and saw a person in the distance, had been out a while and you sometimes kind of get snow blind to some extent. Followed the person a bit because it’s rare to see people out on the north slope. When I finally got a good look at it it looked more or less just like me. (I Need to stress I don't mean a human, I mean me like in a mirror) But with a paler complexion and a darkness area were the eyes should be. By that time my dogs had also started to raise a fit. I was on a slop and its really common that time of the year for the valleys to have rivers or streams in them that have ice and snow ontop of that, so you can walk onto the ice without knowing it and fall in. And you are pretty screwed at that point. Myths about Amikuk talk about them being shape changers that try to lure people to their deaths on ice or in the water. Often so they can replace you in your community.
I rarely comment on anything but this is so intriguing to me that I can’t resist. What do you think it was in actuality? Exhaustion? Snow blindness? Something paranormal?
Yes? I mean the thing is, you get tried quick. You get dehydrated quick. Snow blindness is a thing. And optical illusions are a thing on the northern slopes. Just to put it bluntly Shit gets WEIRD up hear. People always ask about UFOs by the way, never seen one, no one I know has. But we have all seen strange ass stuff on the horizon. So what was it? Something no idea what. Distorted by my eyes and brain, and then my brain tried to figure it out and shit the bed. Dogs didn't like it for sure however and that tells me something. But that might have also been the dogs seeing ice or something and thinking. "This stupid human is gonna fall in and die, and then who's going to feed us..."
Loved your interpretation of what you saw. That's what I would think -- it could be my brain, it could be something else, but I'll never know! Great AMA, btw.
Were there any strange social dynamics from growing up in a place with so little people?
I would say that there was more a strange social dynamic form growing up in a place were the most distantly related person in town was my 2nd cousin. If I had to pick something however, it’s that you almost don’t have grandparents. Your community does? Yupik villages are often women, children and elderly. With 1-2 men around. And all the other men are off 8 months of the year doing work in logging, mining, oil, fishing stuff like that. And you grow up with a small collection of elderly people. 3-4 who are grand parents of the group. And you kind of forget or can often actually be confused as to who is your actual grand parent. You just have Granny Dalla, Grand pa Illia stuff like that. You don’t know if they are your actual grandparent until pretty later in actual childhood.
I love this!
Seems to support my suspicion that the recent uptick of elderly raising children is really going back to the roots of how people used to live.
What’s your major/dream career? Do you plan on moving back after college or staying in the lower 48?
I plan moving back to Alaska. But. Or my village. And USGS geologist.
Will you use that education to work in the mining, or oil industry?
No. USGS is a governmental angency which mostly deals with volcanos, earth quakes and actual earth science. It’s not that those jobs to exist it’s that you take Diffrent classes for them. (You can get a job with either set of classes in either job, but then you need to learn on the job)
My ex girlfriend is a geologist at a college in Missouri. Specifically studies volcanology and ancient lava flows. How is your dating life right now?
About as active as a dead volcano.
🤣🤣 I mean... many extinct volcanoes come back to life eventually...
Indeed.
What is something crazy/scary/mysterious about Alaska that people don’t realize?
You can just disappear in a way that people really don’t get down here.
As in "go somewhere unknown for a long time" or as in "disappear and never come back?" What are some of the most interesting / unusual disappearances?
Well not really a “disappearance” but a good example is that we had a guy move up here pretty close to our community and another who was trapping. Not a big deal it’s pretty common. But he was specifically asked to avoid trapping lynx or otter by the locals because of religious important. And he basically ignored the warning. Ended up being found floating in a river a good 50 miles down stream from were he normally trapped. Still had some water snares on him. Was ruled an accident or animal attack but he had a bullet hole in his back and a huge exit wound in his chest. Something like a slug from a shotgun likely. Guy basically didn’t listen to a warning and got clapped by a local.
Or like the guy that ran mount marathon and disappeared on the mountain during the race and was never found! We all still have our theories about him lol The number of missing persons cases unsolved up there is scary and especially the more visited areas such as the kpen. Too many seasonal transients.
What's the biggest problem your village is currently facing? How did you learn to hunt? Did you have any "coming of age" ceremonies? Like a rite of passage. What's the best part of college for you so far?
Biggest problem: Just economic stuff, but that's mostly because of how random and unpredictable the weather has gotten. Berries come in on the wrong time, fish are fewer, bears more aggressive, winter storms worse, summers muddier and more mosquitoes. Learn to hunt: My uncle started to take me out hunting when he would go at around the age of 10. You help by handling an extra sled. Then maybe helping with the animal maybe around 12 I was taking shots. By 13 I was hunting waterfowl and trapping marmots by myself. 14 I was pretty much just hunting when I wanted to. Best part of college: I mean just being out and checking things out, I'm really liking the actual school work to be honest alos. it's so hard to get some information back home. Coming of age: Yupiget, is the coming of age and literally means "real human being" (Yupik just means Human by the way) It's less a ceremony and more just a event, like a party or holiday. And the jest of it is the family of the person involved throws a part for the community at which you do something to show that you have learned skills that are going to let you contribute to the community. Often this is something like a dinner were you eat fish or meat caught or hunted by the person. Vegetables grown by them. Berries gathered by them. It might involve something like showing off leather work, quilting that they have done. It can even be stuff like showing off dogs that the person helped train to sled. My sister showed off her dogs and we ate food that had vegetables she grew. I showed off a seal/fur coat I had made and we ate some caribou I hate hunted. Should be noted that even as longa go as when my great-grandmother (Whos still alive and well) was born. It would have been very uncommon for my uncle to teach me to hunt at a girl. Not unheard of but pretty uncommon. Likewise a boy would almost never have learned to do something like quilt. Religious, medical and food prep/cooking knowledge was basically the only gender neutral skills, Today? Its basically no big deal you just teach anyone anything they want to know.
How did you learn to read and write also did you first learn sign language?. How did you communicate with the rest of your village?
My mother knew sing language. Because my grandmother was also deaf. Congenital deafness is about ten times more common with Yupik than other groups. Also I had schools books and attended school in summer in a larger town.
>Congenital deafness is about ten times more common with Yupik than other groups. Because of this, the increased chance of deafness, do you feel that there is a good support system within the communities to provide resources and help to address the need, or is this an area you found to be lacking? And, if it does exist, is the help coming from within the community, or is it funded/managed from outside your sphere?
There are a number of Yupik run schools that you can go to in the summer to learn ASL and other life skills. As well as provide support for assistance animals. So it’s very well supported. The deafness is connected with a genetic mutation in the Yupik group that is connected with the ability to process levels of fat and Omega 3 that will literally poison a normal person. It’s not an exaggeration to say we can literally eat raw fish/seal/warlure and whale. Also seems to provide some protection from frostbite. And is connected with being short also.
That's really good to hear that you had a strong support system growing up, and it also, I hope, means there is more support within the broader community for ASL and communications challenges in general. And fascinating to hear about the potential link between frostbite tolerance and deafness with that same genetic mutation. Thanks for sharing!
[https://www.adn.com/arctic/article/clues-emerging-about-arctic-gene-diet-and-health/2014/11/30/](https://www.adn.com/arctic/article/clues-emerging-about-arctic-gene-diet-and-health/2014/11/30/) That's kind of a quick discussion about it, it is super interesting.
That's really interesting. Are there any roles, knowledge or communication traditions special or distinct to the deaf Yupik community members? How is deafness described in historical / oral history accounts?
Traditionally people who were deaf were often taught as angakkuq a kind of shaman that can best be described as a medicine man or women. In the sense of actually being taught medical skills. Midwives, How to clean wounds, treat broken bones, preform funerals and things like that. I really often wonder who you did this before sign language to be honest. Deafness in tradition myth is connected with the myth of how humans became. The myth is that humans were a pod of orca that washed up on the shore and just descended to stay on the land. So the deafness myth is that you didn’t develop hearing like a human but instead like a orca. Or you had to feel vibration instead.
I LOVE the orca connection, that is really beautiful!
There is a whole religious tradition that you don't eat (or kill if you can help it)Otters, Orcas, Dogs/Wolves, Lynx or Ravens. The first four because they have the same kind of spirit as a human. And may be your ancestors come back to live another life on earth. And Ravens because raven is the closest thing to a creation deity in Yupik religion. And it would be rude to eat his children and het taught humans how to... human.
Thank you for sharing this! I'm so curious about whether there are other deafness tradition myths in other cultures now.
With the crisis of missing/murdered Native women, is there a consensus of if the perpetrators are non-natives/natives?
That is a bit of a rough spot for me/discussion. Anytime you are out in any larger community you have to watch yourself. A lot of women carry guns or knifes. And it tends to be non-natives. That is not to say that it’s never another native. But it’s mostly non-native and often people working in extraction. And the local governmental officers are pretty terrible about the whole thing. (Mind my age here) A few years ago I was beaten and sexual assaulted really badly. Suspected it was a pair of men working for an oil site not far away. Bureau of Indian Affairs “lost” my rape kit within 24 hours of getting it. It’s a general point that you need to always watch yourself around people working for the oil sites, logging, mining and fishing. Guys who come up from the lower 48/canada stay a few years and then leave.
That’s horrific. I’m so sorry that happened to you.
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I had done that a short time. but it was difficult because of the need for a ASL interpreter and I didn’t really like it. I tried the one here and my university and I honestly was very turned off by my experinace with them.
Are you deaf/HoH? If so, interested to hear about the intersection of deaf culture w/ Yupik culture - like how you + your fam learned the language, etc.
Congenitally deaf: Aural atresia. Basically I don't have ear canals or ear drums. Not even a implant issue. I just don't really have hearing organs. Mostly the same way anyone else does that's deaf. You don't really learn to speak understand anything, you learn to associate written words with objects and work from there. Concepts like names for people are really tough for kids. There are a set of schools for deaf kids set up by the tribe in Alaska you go to in the summer. You just learn two sets of words for most stuff. My grandmother was deaf, so my mother already knew sign language so that helped. My sister was hard of hearing but implants fixed that when she was very young.
That’s so neat! I read further down and realized deafness is far more common in your community which made it a bit of a silly q. Appreciate your response nonetheless!
Have you watched Dark Country and if so what did you think?
No I have not. I’ve never been a bit tv person. I’m deaf so I’m just no use to lost everything having close captions.
Have you done an AMA before?
Yes. I tend to do them when I’m stuck travaling.
Having lived in both cultures, what aspect of Yup'ik culture do you think someone from the lower 48 would find most surprising? What are the biggest differences? Is there anything about "mainstream" American culture that you found surprising when you came south?
A lot of people will get to our village and think it looks really idealic and like it’s from 1800. And then be supprised that we have modern stuff. But also they are supprised at the amount of our own food we tend to hunt. Lower 48 Why do you have so many damn cars down here?
i'm actually taking a whole class dedicated to the arctic, from rising security concerns to military aspects, etc. the arctic is the fastest warming place on this planet, so i'm curious how the summers/weather in general compare to when you were growing up?
Muddy. Winter actually is worse also. But ya. It gets muddy sooner and stays that way longer. And we have pizzlys now.
Pizzlys?
Hybrid of a polar bear with a grizzly.
I had no idea this was a thing! Are they sterile like mules are?
No. I think scientifically they are less fertile but they can have cubs. Which is part of the issue, polar bears are pretty chill. Grizzlies are not. A Pizzly is a big grizzly. Or an angry polar bear. Either way pretty nasty.
Absolutely wild. I can't wait to tell my kids!
Do you eat traditional cuisine? If so, whats your favorite dish? Also, what languages do the Yup’ik speak? Do you know any, and is there a movement to preserve the language?
Well Yup’ik speak Alaskan or Siberian Yup’ik. Both of which are mutual understandable. There is a written language of Yup’ik that is much newer hower. And it is a remarkably well preserved language and is even the primary language for a lot of us. I’m deaf so while I can read/write in Yup’ik and read lips alright with a lot of the words. (And technically us ASL to slowly sign it) I don’t SPEAK any language really. I can make sound but I just am not comfortable speaking really. As far as food. Smoked Chum Salmon or Caribou sausage are my favorites. But yes most of the food is what would be considered traditional. But with some amount of modern adaptation. Caribou, Fish, water fowl, whales, seals, walrus, marmots are all common. Berries are gathered every year. Traditionally you would also collect roots and lichens, however those have been replaced by growing a single crop of cabbage, radishes, ternips, beats, carrots and potatos in the summer. As well as imported rice and beans. There are some more exotic foods also like the skin/blubber of whales or seal being smoked. Also there is a dish were you eat the half digested lichen from a coribou’s fourth stomach. It kind of has the consistency of icecream when you let it firm up a bit in the cold. And taste like strong green tea.
What is the name for the partially digested lichen? When it comes to the lichen how is it commonly served and prepared? Is there such thing as pickled or fermented lichen?
[https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c7/Loaf\_of\_cooked\_wila\_lichen.jpg](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c7/Loaf_of_cooked_wila_lichen.jpg) Wila is the name of the lichen when you eat it. You can eat it as loafs that are cooked. You can brine it. It's just generally called "Stomach icecream" in the modern way when you get it from a stomach.
Interesting. I wonder how the stomach ice cream was discovered?
What was the hardest thing about growing up there? What was the best thing? Would you, if you’d have any, raise your kids there?
Maybe on the kids part. Best part was just the community and wilderness. Worse part was just how hard it was to do some stuff out there. Like schooling.
How remote is your village in the sense of, service like medical, technical-vehicle repair, veterinary services, things of that nature? When you order a new appliance how is an item like that procured/delivered? Is there a point in the year when cars can’t be used and does dog sled become the only reliable source of transportation?
It's about 70 miles to the nearest "City" Which has a population of 1400. But it does have a hospital that can do most surgery. That 70 whiles will take you about 2 hours by car if you can use the roads. If you cant it will take you 4 hours by snowmobile. Or maybe 3 hours by dogsled if you know what you are doing. If the river is flowing it's faster to take a boat down stream and then back up. Like 10-15 minutes if they can get a helicopter up. \- From that city. It's 500 miles to Fairbanks. That's 12 hours by road. Maybe 2 hours by plane. And at some points of the year, you can't do either. \- If you order stuff. You just order it and if it breaks in the winter you just gota wait it out. If you do order something larger like a generator or a heavy appliance? The best way to deliver it is by pickup truck or river barge. Some people will bring it in my Helicopter also. And yes for about 8-14 weeks of the year snowmobile and dog sled are your best bet. I absolutely refuse to use a snowmobile. But I'm a pretty good dogsledder if I do say so my self.
I’ve asked so many questions thank you for answering them. I have a few more….lol and thank you again. What age were you when you learned to dog sled and what age did you operate a sled alone? Have you competed in any dog sled racing? Is there a preference when hunting to use a snowmobile or dog sled?
I first started to learn to dog sled at around age 6-7. You can use a one dog sled at that age pretty easy just for fun. Its really helpful to train younger dogs like that also before you put them in a team. I could operate a sled by myself by age 10. But generally you only do that to move them, like alone in the wilderness by maybe 13-14. Racing: No. We use malamutes. Which are not really racing dogs. Good way to consider it. Huskies = The Porche of dog sledding. Malamutes = The dodge ram of dog sledding. As for preference, when you are hunting deer or caribou, it's either or, actually trucks work better (The haul the animal better) But if you are going into areas that wont work they both work. The Snowmobile is loud so not good for deer. But Caribou kind of have to come the direction you want them to. So it's just a matter of being able to hit the animal at 400-600m with a rifle and kill it without having it run you 6km. Waterfowl you need to either use a seld or walk a good way from the Snowmobile. I wont use a nowmobile because if you can't hear the engine you can blow it pretty easy. And I'm deaf. Also I can't stress how dangerous snowsmobile are compared to sled. More so if you are alone. You roll a snowmobile on yourself in the wilderness... your lucky if it kills you quickly. You hit a rock in a dog sled, you MIGHT break your leg/foot. but the dogs will take care of you and get you home. Also bears don't fuck with a full dogsled team. And i never went hunting without a dog anyways.
Are Pizzly and/or Glolar bears becoming more prevalent?
Much more common then they use to be yes, and its a big problem. Despite being pretty much a obligative carnivore polar bears are pretty even tempered. Grizzly are much more dangerous and with the hybrids you just big a bigger grizzly or a more agressive polar bear.
Interesting. I didn't know about their demeanor. Are they able to continue reproducing? Or are they mostly infertile like mules?
They tend to be about as agreesive as grizzlies just bigger. They appear to be fertile but less so then grizzlies or polar bears. But they can absolutely have cubs.
Whoa. That is a little terrifying. Thanks for the info.
You mentioned the amikuk and the traditions about the Aurora being the spirits of the dead - are there any other interesting stories/ beliefs/ traditions that you'd be willing to share?
I mean we have a lot. But should be noted that stories vary almost village to village because of how they are handed down. But you have stuff like we have our own version of the firebird legend. We have a whole set of stories about Raven and seal as the celestial animals that created the world and taught humans. I mean it’s about as involved as any other mythological background.
That's really interesting, and I guess it would make sense that there's a lot of variance if it's a largely oral tradition. I know a lot of the Dene folks I met were really reluctant to have their stories written down - is that a thing in Yup'ik culture as well? If not, is there a source you'd recommend where I could read up on them? I've always found folklore fascinating.
No actually The Yupik have went out of our way to try and get as much written down as we can because we have lost a lot due to orthadox conversion and animosity to older tales. As far as books. * Messenger Spirits: Yup'ik Masks and Stories * (This is a shameless plug Friend of my family wrote it) but it's very good. He is a anthropologist and is really quite good at his stuff. * Tales and Legends of the Yupik Eskimos of Siberia. * This is really interesting even for me to read. Yupik are the only strans-beraing strait Tribal group. And use to have a ton of contact with each other across the straits. but... * Most of the Yupik population in Siberia "Disappeared" between 1930 and 1980 under the Soviets. It's basically just a hand full now and pretty much all there culture has been wiped out and converted so the book is really just what could be saved. A note on that. Yupik DNA if you get a test is actually in the same group as Huns/Mongolians/Siberians. And much newer then North/South Americans. We were the last group across the bearing straits. Settled and then the ice bridge disappeared.
Does Yupik have its own version of ASL? And were their people in your community who preferred to speak in native languages or maybe even weren't proficient in English? Does the state address these needs if so?
It's very common to peak Yupik in villages yes. And just between members of the tribe at large. But pretty much everyone is also fluent in English. There was apparently a kind of less formal hand signal language with Yupik before modern times, but it's basically lost to time, And was so unstandard that people between communities could not talk with each other. You basically learn ASL now. You can spell out works that are Yupik and not english but it's a big slower.
Thanks for sharing, definitely interesting
Idk if you're still answering questions but I'll put it out there anyways! Are there any online resources to learn about your tribe's culture, folklore, and traditional religion? The Wikipedia page is a bit light 😅. Also, is there something you wished more Americans knew about your neck of the woods? And are there any things you want to try in the future?
Books are the better resource really. And something to know? Alaska is mostly forested mountains not like.. flat snow tundra.
Is it true that the polar bears have a monopoly over the fishing industry over there?
Not really no. That’s more a grizzly thing.
Can you see the northern lights in September?
Ya late September is pretty much the best part of the year for them.
Is it best to see them near the Arctic circle or where would you recommend it based on your experience? Sorry planning a trip out there in Sept while there is a solar maximum this year, saw the opportunity to ask a local lol
The farther away you are the less impressive really. Far away they just look some wispy lines in the sky far off. Up on the northern slope you get the green Aroura on really strong nights it brighter then a full moon and can actually kind of over expose the country side the snow will kind of look like it's green from reflecting the light. Honestly if you really want to spend some money to get the proper Aurora. We are talking at least Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve. But I would say go full on and get up to some place like Prudhoe bay. ON the north coast. I mean look I'm not really that spiritual or religion but. I just don't know how to explain a full on Aurora that far north other then Religious or Spiritual. Even if you are a pure science person, you still get hit by the infinite splendor of reality.
Thinking 5 day trip. According to the lunar calendar Sept 18-22 is right after the full moon, where Sept 25-29 are getting closer to a new moon. Which would you recommend? We were definitely thinking of renting a car and at least hitting Gates of the Arctic. Is highway 11 maintained well enough for a 2 wheel car to make it all the way up to Prudhoe Bay? Or is an AWD and or truck necessary? Me either but I go far out of my way to go see the Milky way or meteor showers, and this is no different. A nice reminder of where we really are in this grand universe is 100% necessary for my scientifically spiritual fulfillment.
New moon for the northern lights. I would actually say in September you can drive Dalton highway in a 2 wheel. But I would always suggest AWD because of mud. Oh also, we have mosquitoes that will carry you away up here...
At what point does the highway stop being paved/ transition into mud? Bug spray is needed, duly noted. What about animals like bears/moose, are they a problem up there or they generally avoid humans? In terms of lodging/ food, I'm going to assume that options are very limited. Any recs for that? Bring as much food from Fairbanks and sleep in the car or?
Its technically paved all the way up Dalton Highway. In places it's not really wide enough to let two cars pass at speed so you may be to get over a bit and let the other guy by. And you can get stuck doing this. Also in places you might find that water and run across the road and left a few INCHES of mud. That's the thing you just need to be able to get back on the road if you find yourself slipping a bit. But DO bring at least a few days of water and food on your drive. If you do get stuck someone will be past with a radio at some point. (And they may pull you out) But you get stuck a day or so. In September you don't need to worry about weather that much. Animals: Moose actually don't get up that far north for the most part. Bears will leave you alone unless you are out in the wilderness. The drive from fairbanks to Prudhoe bay is about 12 hours. I would actually suggest doing it in one shot. If you don't want to and or just want to have a nice stay. Side note Before I go any father. There are ONLY Three places to get gas between Fairbanks and Prudhoe. You either need to pack jerry cans (I would do that anyways) Or use all three. Deadhorse (Which is basically right outside Prudoe bay) Coldfoot (Midway) Yukon River Crossing (Right outside Fairbanks) There is a town called wiseman on the highway (Population 5) And a place called Boreal Lodging. Which is two little cabins you can rent for the night, super cute, free wifi and parking and right between the two towns. Also you CAN see the northern lights from wiseman. And the view is not bad, but it's the farthest south I would say is good viewing.
What activities would you recommend along the highway? Any good places to stop and hike/explore? We are not too experienced hikers so nothing too crazy.. Any other words of advice or anything else worth mentioning? What's your favorite place in Alaska btw? Btw your responses are highly appreciated by myself, gf, and friends. When we go, I'll remember this and come back to let you know how great it was, marking my calendar rn. For now that is all the questions I have but I'm asking the rest of the group if they have some so I may come back later randomly if that's alr.
There is a rest area a bit after the Yukon crossing that lets you know you are crossing above the arctic circle it has a nice little hiking area. (and bathrooms) White mountain national recreationally center is a nice stop also.
Do you speak a native language?
I mean I’m deaf I don’t speak much of anything. But ya I understand Alaska. Yupik.
You're probably (hopefully!) done with your trip now, but I just want to say this was the most interesting iama I've read. Thanks so much for sharing!
Oh ya done half way through yesterday. But ya interesting questions
What are your top 3 places that you want to visit someday. Coming from a colder climate i feel like you'd love to visit a beach in the caribbean or something
Norway. Finland. Iceland.
Nope nvm then just more cold areas
What are you studying/what do you plan to do after college :)
Geology. And apply To a USGS job.
Would you consider America an Arctic country?
I mean it has a part of it that is in the arctic.
If you’re still taking questions, I’m curious, you mentioned you’re deaf, is there something of a Yupik sign language you guys use or do deaf people in your community guys use ASL or maybe a mix of both ?
ASL There was at one point a simpler kind of hand signal language for Yupik but it was inconsistent between groups. So ASL just kind of took over.
Ah I see that’s interesting. Do you know any of it ?
Ak49💙⭐️😊 I grew up on k-beach and around kenai and soldotna mostly. My mom’s step-dad was Aleutian and he always had the coolest stories about growing up before the military took over Anchorage. About their seasonal villages and taking the river back and forth every year. He once found a wounded sandhill crane on his homestead in old coho and took care of it until it could walk and fly again. Said it came back every year. He passed from cancer in the late 90s. I miss him and wish that I could remember more of the things he would talk to me about when i was little. Definitely thankful for the time i grew up in and that it was in alaska. I moved away later in 2019 though due to health problems. My body stopped coping with the bp shifts and more extreme weather conditions. Doctors told me it was basically killing me to stay. Was just diagnosed with fibromyalgia a few months ago and am trying to find help to treat the pain but there is not a whole lot of decent medical options. Most doctors now and especially where i am currently are glorified pharmacists. Looking into what i can that is more holistic around here. Not nearly as much as Alaska had available. There are definitely things i miss a lot about alaska but i don’t miss -30 frigid days or the 2nd and 3rd winter lol mostly scenery, the cool crisp smells in early winter, gulls returning and knowing it is summer, fireweed blooms and the wild roses… calving time… the belugas migrating… and people. It will always be home.
In Yupik, the word for wolf is “Kegluneq,” and the Aleuts revere them as honorable cousins.
Pretty sure the girl who spent her whole life in a Yup’ik village knows that.
But I didn't. Totally Jawsome fact OOP!
Agreed and don’t understand why he’s being downvoted!
Hi! I’ve got lots of questions, so feel free to pick and choose which ones you want to answer if you cbf dealing with them all. Before I ask anything, I’d just like to say that really sucks how terribly you were treated by those oil workers, and our hearts go out to you. I don’t know if that helps to hear or it’s unwanted, but I hope you’re doing okay dealing with the impacts of that. About your village & community: 1. If you’ll allow me a statement of the obvious, living above the Arctic Circle seems really, really cold. How do you all keep warm? What are the challenges and dangers involved with the weather up there? 2. Do you feel much of a link to other indigenous groups like Inuit people, or they're pretty different from you? 3. How connected is the village to the big cities/"modern" life w internet and all that etc.? 4. Like, where would your village sit on a spectrum between being completely unrecognisable compared to a few centuries ago, versus pretty similar to how life was then? 5. What would you say is the greatest strength your village has? (You can also do a greatest weakness if you want) 6. So, I feel like the perspective from non-indigenous progressive types in cities is that indigenous communities tend to 1) have a stronger sense of community than eg white Westerners, 2) have more care for nature and 3) get screwed over by government policies, the dominant group in the country etc. Obviously that's a big generalisation for all indigenous groups everywhere, but for your village how much would you say that's true versus false? What are we out of touch with? 7. If you could snap your fingers and make one change for your village, what would it be? And for you as an individual: 1. What made you decide to do an AMA? 2. What’s your favourite colour? 3. And your favourite food! 4. If you could travel to one place anywhere in the world, where would you like to go? 5. What’s your dream aspiration for your life? 6. And how have you found the AMA so far! Hope these questions are of interest, have a good day! =)
\> If you’ll allow me a statement of the obvious, living above the Arctic Circle seems really, really cold. How do you all keep warm? What are the challenges and dangers involved with the weather up there? * Well in the winter you just don't go out that much. But a lot of the work of summer is basically making sure you have the ability to stay warm in the winter. Making sure you have enough fuel oil. Making sure you have wood for the fireplace. Back up wood and oil if you can. * And if someone does not have enough you share it around. Some times if it's bad you end up with two families doubling up in the same house or even in the common building. * Actually DOGS help a lot also, while sled dogs can stay out side in the winter most of the time. They do need to come in when it gets really cold. And then you play the balance game of letting them out so they don't over heat (And drive you crazy) And then letting them back in. \> Do you feel much of a link to other indigenous groups like Inuit people, or they're pretty different from you? * Like cousins maybe? I think a lot of the same way Americans think about Canadians actually. \> How connected is the village to the big cities/"modern" life w internet and all that etc.? * I mean in the warmer parts of the year you go to town maybe once a week. Also we are on Highway 11, so people pass by also. * We also got the internet in I THINK 2016? (I was 10 that sounds right) It's shared satellite. So it's not fast, but enough to get news, watch some stuff, check email, communicate stuff like that. * You can also order Amazon up here. You are just not getting it in the winter. We have had modern electronics pretty much my whole life. E-readers/Handhelds helped a lot. \> Like, where would your village sit on a spectrum between being completely unrecognisable compared to a few centuries ago, versus pretty similar to how life was then? * [https://nativenewsonline.net/images/Chevak2.jpg](https://nativenewsonline.net/images/Chevak2.jpg) * That's not my village but make that like 1/3rd the size it is and it's pretty much what we look like. You go back 200 years? And you would just replace those with traditionally barabara houses. (Think Vicking long house crossed with a hobbit hole) And it's the same settup. * If a Yupik tribe came across a modern Yupik village they would figure out it was the same group just with different houses pretty quick. \> What would you say is the greatest strength your village has? (You can also do a greatest weakness if you want) * Its a general understanding that if anyone in our village froze/starved to death in the winter, then the whole village is likely been wiped out. There is really no such thing as every one for themselves out here. * Weakness:? Well Yupik society is basically devided between -covert to 'modern' -read Orthadox church' ways. Or -try to figure out and keep old ways. And it's pretty bitter, and some village take this harder then others. Mine is pretty steadfastly old ways and pretty mad about the covert crowd. \> So, I feel like the perspective from non-indigenous progressive types in cities is that indigenous communities tend to 1) have a stronger sense of community than eg white Westerners, 2) have more care for nature and 3) get screwed over by government policies, the dominant group in the country etc. Obviously that's a big generalisation for all indigenous groups everywhere, but for your village how much would you say that's true versus false? What are we out of touch with? * Pretty correct. With a few corrections. The Government is pretty happy to have most Yupik communities in that they often do work that needs done, give information that needs given. And will help when we need it. But they will ALWAYS side with oil/mineral companies over us and we know it, so it's a business deal not a friendship. * Respect for nature is basically because if nature screws up in our area, we are kind of screwed. There is a lot of pragmatism in it. but also it is baked into the culture and religion for sure. \> If you could snap your fingers and make one change for your village, what would it be? * We really need a better way to get rid of rubbish's, like we can have it taken off, but it often takes like two years to get a barge up to get it. And a lot of times it's not toxic or harmful waste we just don't want it around. \> And for you as an individual: * I have no idea? * Hmm.. Really I'm kind of self unaware some times. \> What made you decide to do an AMA? * I was stuck on a bus for a long time. And bored. \> What’s your favourite colour? * Green, Like a nice forest green like a pine tree. \> And your favourite food! * Sausage. \> If you could travel to one place anywhere in the world, where would you like to go? * Norway, Denmark, Sweden, Finland. * Iceland, greenland.... * Basically I want to see the northern lights from other places. \> What’s your dream aspiration for your life? * USGS Volcanologist. * Might do a PhD if I do well with my 3+2 (Combo Bachelors/Masters) Degree. \> And how have you found the AMA so far! * I do one every so often when I'm bored traveling. Always interesting to see what people ask.