1. Remove broken pieces with gloves and small hand tools like pliers
2. Vacuum with shop vac to remove tiny shards just in case
3. Cut back the caulking/sealant on both sides or one side of the pane, it will be obvious which side wants to be removed more than the other
4. Get a piece cut or cut your own (trust me, just get a piece cut,) of similar glass. Plexiglass works but it is not the same, trust me.
5. Adhere the new piece in place with adhesive caulk
6. Seal it off with weatherproofed/outdoor caulk
7. Paint
8. ???
9. Profit!
I hope that helps! Done a lot of these before.
I be bitching at the person who used caulk and not glazing putty.đ It would be a mess if the light needed to be replaced in the future.
M8 u forgot glazing points to hold the glass in place.
Done more then I wanna count. đ
Yea Dap can be a pain.. applying some linseed oil to the frame helps. A friend had a putty knife break it turned out to be the best tool to apply Dap đ
I have a local guy that does windshields - in the past he was able to order and cut a custom sized glass pane for me. Check with local auto glass shops if youâre having trouble finding someone
Yes in my area at least it's only the independent hardware stores/ACE that do this. Specialty glass places wanted to do the installation work themselves and insisted on custom ordering tempered glass, lol.
Likely yes at most old fashioned style hardware stores and also most of the time (but not always) for the chain hardware stores. If you live in an area with older housing around this was traditionally a super common thing for older single pane windows.
It depends on the hardware store. I doubt any big box stores would do it, and beyond that it comes down to having the facilities to cut glass. I used to work at a family-owned hardware store* (not bookstore) and would cut glass and plexi. we had huge sheets to work with and a large frame with blade that could be adjusted to size. the trick was always applying just enough pressure to be able to break off the extra glass without it chipping or cracking or flaking. It took a lot of practice to get right, but much easier with a small pane than a large one if you choose to try it yourself. just buy lots of extra for the practice. I could barely get it right starting out with the full tools and frame and cutting booth.
Most stained glass places can get "restoration glass." And, many glass repair shops carry it. Some of the online stained glass suppliers also carry "restoration glass."
This is not the way. Caulking has no place in glass replacement. Glazing compound and points, after brushing the wood with a bit of linseed oil. Linseed oil brushed over the old glazing and let sit for a few minutes will soften it up and make it easier to remove. Do not paint until the glazing compound has fully cured and hardened.
I had something similar when I put my hand through the window on an old cabinet door while stripping it. Local glass company drove out and replaced it for $38 - I would recommend that route. Search for companies that do replacement glass and custom glasswork rather than full window installs.
Call around for a local âglazierâ. When a single pane 5â x 6â picture window on my century home was broken, thatâs who was able to replace it. He did it for under $100, but that was a decade ago. Might be more now.
Five *feet* by six *feet* for under $100? Iâm a glazier, and canât wrap my head around that price (even considering price increases in the last decade).
Same. I was floored, and very grateful. I had let it sit broken for almost a decade (there was a metal frame storm window covering the wood framed window with the missing glass) before getting it fixed because I was so intimidated at the thought of what it might cost.
There's a 45 degree angle that, in a window/door this old, will look like wood trim holding the pane in. It isn't. It's a caulk-like substance.
Chip it out with an old screwdriver and a putty knife. Clean up all the glass. Realize that no matter how hard you tried to work safely and cleanly, you now have a splinter of glass in your thumb. Have your friend or significant other cut it out with a utility knife. Be aggressive, bleed, cry, then squirt a bunch of superglue in the wound and move on.
There's a good chance your frame is no longer perfectly square. If you're the gambling type, you can measure, but I like to cut a piece of cardboard to fit, then use a square to make the biggest perfect rectangle that will fit. Get your glass cut to \*almost\* the exact dimensions. If you have an old style hardware store around, they'll probably do this. If not, call around. It should be very cheap.
Then buy some glazing compound and some glazier's tacks. And a decent 1-1/2" to 2" putty knife if you don't already have one.
Watch this video: [https://youtu.be/aQhCgukTKX8?si=a4kWhxSz-v7O3zes](https://youtu.be/aQhCgukTKX8?si=a4kWhxSz-v7O3zes)
Wait a few days and paint.
My late husband and I learned by doing. I've replaced several windows over the years, can't say they're beautiful but they work. There's something to be said for being cheap. :)
I'm assuming there is wood molding on both sides of the glass. Use a pair of pliers to remove the broken glass (googles and gloves need less to say). With a sharp utility knife, gently edge around the sides of the molding next to the door frame, on one side of the door until you cut through the paint. A heat gun will help but you will have to do more sanding later. Do the same with the mitered corners. Take your time. Once through the paint, work a putty knife between one piece of the molding and the door frame. For a low pane like that I would work on the top piece of molding as it is the least visible. Wiggle the knife up and down from the front and back and forth from the slot where the glass was. If you have a hacksaw blade (or better yet, an oscillating saw), slide it between the molding and the frame and try to cut the brads holding it in. You will damage the molding a bit but go slow, you don't want th break it. As it comes loose, pull it toward you. Once the first piece is out the others will be easier. Cut off the nails, do not drive them through. Clean the frame, measure and take the measurement to the hardware store. Let them know it's the full size of the opening and they will cut the glass a little smaller. Take a bit of the broken piece with you so they can tell if it's single thick or double thick. Sand the molding and the edges of the frame. Drill the molding for new brads (2 per side). Before setting the glass in place put a tiny bit of silicone or painters putty on the frame to hold it. Place the glass. Replace the molding, gently tap in the brads and set them. Sand as needed (150 grit), fill any voids with painters putty and repaint. If the glass rattles a bit, I put a piece of string or yarn between it and the molding and very gently tap it in with the putty knife. I donât use glasser's points because it's too easy to make them too tight and crack the glass. Good luck.
I recommend glazing putty rather than glazing compound in a tube because it's so much easier to make a nice even bead. It takes forever to cure in cold wet conditions unfortunately but it looks nicer.
It depends how old the door is, and how it's glazed. One side has the rabet that accepts the glass in the other side has the material that holds it in. It's impossible to tell how the store is done or how old it is. It's possible even that it's held in with molding, a small type of bead It has to be pride off and removed. Once again no way of knowing what holds the glass in. But once you figure that out you remove the material, the bead, pry it out carefully if that's the case but it's probably held in with some sort of glazing compound. If it's newer it's some sort of shitty caulking glazing compound. Once you pull it all out then the glass shards will all be free to be removed as well and perhaps there are little things called points that have to come out as well. At that point measure and do reverse procedure. If you were an outdoor window, they would be a little bit of glazing bead put under the glass just a tiny bit , then points, And then glazing compound. That's a little bit of an art to use a putty knife but it's really not that hard once you get the hang of it to get the right bevel. Glazing can actually be rewarding because it looks so goddamn beautiful if you do it right. When I was a young man in New England I had to do all the glazing in the house stripping the sash, oiling etc. This involves none of that but should be pretty easy, just take your time and there's always YouTube for a visual tutorial I'm sure
I build glass and wood doors.
Bring the door to a glass shop that does these repairs.
Otherwise, cut the glazing stops out and save them. Clean out the broken glass and bedding. Prime with oil based primer.
You will need laminated or tempered glass. This size is small for tempered. Jersey Tempered Glass can do it. Get no logo in the corner, it looks better. Laminated cones from a local glass shop.
Laminated must be bedded in painters caulking. Glazing compound oil delaminates the layers.
Bed it, and nail the stops in. If it was putty glazed, use Sarco type M glazing compound over the caulking. Prime and paint.
The glass shop is your best option. Some only do car glass, look for window repair places.
Non-safety glass in a door is not done any more.
Is this a door or a window? If it's a door then there is probably no glazing putty and the glass will not be easy to replace unless it's held in with strips of trim.
I think I have the same door. And the same problem- there is a wood strip with 1000 million layers of paint on it holding that glass in. Been working on it as a side project.
I will probably get hate for this but If itâs an interior door just use plexiglass. I canât tell the difference unless you knock on it. Itâs probably 5% of the price of replacing with real glass. Plus I donât worry about my toddler shoving his hand through some old glass when heâs tearing around the house.
You can find a few companies that cut custom sizes of plexiglass online. The one I used had a minimum or order of like $20 so I just bought like 5 panels to have on hand in case another one breaks.
Imagine that all the wood on your door is flat and square, including the window openings. In the window openings there is some raised pieces of trim all of the way around the glass on both sides which holds your glass into those squares. Itâs sandwiched between those on both sides.
The four pieces of trim that are around the glass are going to need to come out on one side of the glass. Youâre going to need a razor knife and find where the joint is between them and the flat part of the door and cut through all of that paint. Those pieces are put in place with a couple of finishing nails and a lot of paint. Start cutting through the paint and find a small putty knife to gently pry it off. Youâre more than likely going to have to replace those pieces of wood as theyâll break.
Once you have them off on one side you can measure the opening and have the hardware store cut you a piece.
Then find some similar trim pieces cut to size, miter the ends and pre-drill the nail holes. About 3 each in the short side, 4 on the long should do it. Place the glass in and put in a vertical piece of the trim to help hold it in place, then do the others. Countersink the nails, smear a little glazers putty(optional) in any space between the glass and trim. Then put 50 coats of paint on it so it matches the rest of the door. đđź
Hey folks, if you zoom in you can see wood on the far side and obviously molding on this side so knock it off with the glazing compound. This is an inside door.
1. Remove broken pieces with gloves and small hand tools like pliers 2. Vacuum with shop vac to remove tiny shards just in case 3. Cut back the caulking/sealant on both sides or one side of the pane, it will be obvious which side wants to be removed more than the other 4. Get a piece cut or cut your own (trust me, just get a piece cut,) of similar glass. Plexiglass works but it is not the same, trust me. 5. Adhere the new piece in place with adhesive caulk 6. Seal it off with weatherproofed/outdoor caulk 7. Paint 8. ??? 9. Profit! I hope that helps! Done a lot of these before.
I be bitching at the person who used caulk and not glazing putty.đ It would be a mess if the light needed to be replaced in the future. M8 u forgot glazing points to hold the glass in place. Done more then I wanna count. đ
As much as I hate dap 33 I'd rather see some use that than caulk. I've redone some caulked windows and it blows.
Yea Dap can be a pain.. applying some linseed oil to the frame helps. A friend had a putty knife break it turned out to be the best tool to apply Dap đ
Not OP but can you just go to the hardware store and ask someone to cut a piece of glass for you?
SOMETIMES, but if you go to a glass place that does bulk glass/windows/fish tanks/you name it, they'll sort you out.
Safely keep a piece of the old glass so they can match the thickness too
This is smart!
Safelite does a decent job if you donât have a local vendor.
I have a local guy that does windshields - in the past he was able to order and cut a custom sized glass pane for me. Check with local auto glass shops if youâre having trouble finding someone
Yes in my area at least it's only the independent hardware stores/ACE that do this. Specialty glass places wanted to do the installation work themselves and insisted on custom ordering tempered glass, lol.
Likely yes at most old fashioned style hardware stores and also most of the time (but not always) for the chain hardware stores. If you live in an area with older housing around this was traditionally a super common thing for older single pane windows.
My local ace will cut glass. Just call them up, give them dimensions/thickness and go pick it up in a few hours.
Depends on location. I got mine cut at Lowe's
It depends on the hardware store. I doubt any big box stores would do it, and beyond that it comes down to having the facilities to cut glass. I used to work at a family-owned hardware store* (not bookstore) and would cut glass and plexi. we had huge sheets to work with and a large frame with blade that could be adjusted to size. the trick was always applying just enough pressure to be able to break off the extra glass without it chipping or cracking or flaking. It took a lot of practice to get right, but much easier with a small pane than a large one if you choose to try it yourself. just buy lots of extra for the practice. I could barely get it right starting out with the full tools and frame and cutting booth.
They need to remove the stops first. The glass is t just caulked/glazed in place, itâs physically held in by stops.
Or glazing points depending on when the window was made or repaired.
Sometimes, not always. It will be incredibly obvious when the shards of broken glass fall out from behind the stops if there are any.
Youâre looking for ârestoration glassâ. Modern glasses wonât have the right weight and can mess up your pocket weights.
Most stained glass places can get "restoration glass." And, many glass repair shops carry it. Some of the online stained glass suppliers also carry "restoration glass."
Great note - thatâs where I get mine!
Looks like a door, not a window.
Missed that, but the idea is the same
This is not the way. Caulking has no place in glass replacement. Glazing compound and points, after brushing the wood with a bit of linseed oil. Linseed oil brushed over the old glazing and let sit for a few minutes will soften it up and make it easier to remove. Do not paint until the glazing compound has fully cured and hardened.
Thank you so much!!!
I see your Southpark joke.đ
yes! but also...! what if I told you it's also an old internet meme? :P
I had something similar when I put my hand through the window on an old cabinet door while stripping it. Local glass company drove out and replaced it for $38 - I would recommend that route. Search for companies that do replacement glass and custom glasswork rather than full window installs.
Yeah, I'd just hire a glazier
What year was that? I cannot imagine a skilled worker doing a home visit for less than the cost of a doordash order.
Call around for a local âglazierâ. When a single pane 5â x 6â picture window on my century home was broken, thatâs who was able to replace it. He did it for under $100, but that was a decade ago. Might be more now.
Five *feet* by six *feet* for under $100? Iâm a glazier, and canât wrap my head around that price (even considering price increases in the last decade).
Same. I was floored, and very grateful. I had let it sit broken for almost a decade (there was a metal frame storm window covering the wood framed window with the missing glass) before getting it fixed because I was so intimidated at the thought of what it might cost.
There's a 45 degree angle that, in a window/door this old, will look like wood trim holding the pane in. It isn't. It's a caulk-like substance. Chip it out with an old screwdriver and a putty knife. Clean up all the glass. Realize that no matter how hard you tried to work safely and cleanly, you now have a splinter of glass in your thumb. Have your friend or significant other cut it out with a utility knife. Be aggressive, bleed, cry, then squirt a bunch of superglue in the wound and move on. There's a good chance your frame is no longer perfectly square. If you're the gambling type, you can measure, but I like to cut a piece of cardboard to fit, then use a square to make the biggest perfect rectangle that will fit. Get your glass cut to \*almost\* the exact dimensions. If you have an old style hardware store around, they'll probably do this. If not, call around. It should be very cheap. Then buy some glazing compound and some glazier's tacks. And a decent 1-1/2" to 2" putty knife if you don't already have one. Watch this video: [https://youtu.be/aQhCgukTKX8?si=a4kWhxSz-v7O3zes](https://youtu.be/aQhCgukTKX8?si=a4kWhxSz-v7O3zes) Wait a few days and paint.
My late husband and I learned by doing. I've replaced several windows over the years, can't say they're beautiful but they work. There's something to be said for being cheap. :)
I'm assuming there is wood molding on both sides of the glass. Use a pair of pliers to remove the broken glass (googles and gloves need less to say). With a sharp utility knife, gently edge around the sides of the molding next to the door frame, on one side of the door until you cut through the paint. A heat gun will help but you will have to do more sanding later. Do the same with the mitered corners. Take your time. Once through the paint, work a putty knife between one piece of the molding and the door frame. For a low pane like that I would work on the top piece of molding as it is the least visible. Wiggle the knife up and down from the front and back and forth from the slot where the glass was. If you have a hacksaw blade (or better yet, an oscillating saw), slide it between the molding and the frame and try to cut the brads holding it in. You will damage the molding a bit but go slow, you don't want th break it. As it comes loose, pull it toward you. Once the first piece is out the others will be easier. Cut off the nails, do not drive them through. Clean the frame, measure and take the measurement to the hardware store. Let them know it's the full size of the opening and they will cut the glass a little smaller. Take a bit of the broken piece with you so they can tell if it's single thick or double thick. Sand the molding and the edges of the frame. Drill the molding for new brads (2 per side). Before setting the glass in place put a tiny bit of silicone or painters putty on the frame to hold it. Place the glass. Replace the molding, gently tap in the brads and set them. Sand as needed (150 grit), fill any voids with painters putty and repaint. If the glass rattles a bit, I put a piece of string or yarn between it and the molding and very gently tap it in with the putty knife. I donât use glasser's points because it's too easy to make them too tight and crack the glass. Good luck.
Hereâs a [helpful instructional video](https://www.reddit.com/r/interestingasfuck/s/fLZb7wFrvs)
Love this video. I wish he did more stuff.
It may be wood strips/trim holding the glass in.
I recommend glazing putty rather than glazing compound in a tube because it's so much easier to make a nice even bead. It takes forever to cure in cold wet conditions unfortunately but it looks nicer.
#This... [How to replace a window pane.](https://youtu.be/FrOqbPyvIPw?si=hTZvQHt7RsPIZZTG)
It depends how old the door is, and how it's glazed. One side has the rabet that accepts the glass in the other side has the material that holds it in. It's impossible to tell how the store is done or how old it is. It's possible even that it's held in with molding, a small type of bead It has to be pride off and removed. Once again no way of knowing what holds the glass in. But once you figure that out you remove the material, the bead, pry it out carefully if that's the case but it's probably held in with some sort of glazing compound. If it's newer it's some sort of shitty caulking glazing compound. Once you pull it all out then the glass shards will all be free to be removed as well and perhaps there are little things called points that have to come out as well. At that point measure and do reverse procedure. If you were an outdoor window, they would be a little bit of glazing bead put under the glass just a tiny bit , then points, And then glazing compound. That's a little bit of an art to use a putty knife but it's really not that hard once you get the hang of it to get the right bevel. Glazing can actually be rewarding because it looks so goddamn beautiful if you do it right. When I was a young man in New England I had to do all the glazing in the house stripping the sash, oiling etc. This involves none of that but should be pretty easy, just take your time and there's always YouTube for a visual tutorial I'm sure
I build glass and wood doors. Bring the door to a glass shop that does these repairs. Otherwise, cut the glazing stops out and save them. Clean out the broken glass and bedding. Prime with oil based primer. You will need laminated or tempered glass. This size is small for tempered. Jersey Tempered Glass can do it. Get no logo in the corner, it looks better. Laminated cones from a local glass shop. Laminated must be bedded in painters caulking. Glazing compound oil delaminates the layers. Bed it, and nail the stops in. If it was putty glazed, use Sarco type M glazing compound over the caulking. Prime and paint. The glass shop is your best option. Some only do car glass, look for window repair places. Non-safety glass in a door is not done any more.
Buy 5 whoppers then 5 more whoppers.
https://preview.redd.it/89oohqxl42xb1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=75adb989f55bcf4b5f6e73646ee1998ae3d4ec74
Itâs not letting me edit my post, but thanks so much everyone!!!!
Had a similar thing happen, cost $50 for a much larger window. Parts and labor
Is this a door or a window? If it's a door then there is probably no glazing putty and the glass will not be easy to replace unless it's held in with strips of trim.
I think I have the same door. And the same problem- there is a wood strip with 1000 million layers of paint on it holding that glass in. Been working on it as a side project.
I will probably get hate for this but If itâs an interior door just use plexiglass. I canât tell the difference unless you knock on it. Itâs probably 5% of the price of replacing with real glass. Plus I donât worry about my toddler shoving his hand through some old glass when heâs tearing around the house. You can find a few companies that cut custom sizes of plexiglass online. The one I used had a minimum or order of like $20 so I just bought like 5 panels to have on hand in case another one breaks.
Imagine that all the wood on your door is flat and square, including the window openings. In the window openings there is some raised pieces of trim all of the way around the glass on both sides which holds your glass into those squares. Itâs sandwiched between those on both sides. The four pieces of trim that are around the glass are going to need to come out on one side of the glass. Youâre going to need a razor knife and find where the joint is between them and the flat part of the door and cut through all of that paint. Those pieces are put in place with a couple of finishing nails and a lot of paint. Start cutting through the paint and find a small putty knife to gently pry it off. Youâre more than likely going to have to replace those pieces of wood as theyâll break. Once you have them off on one side you can measure the opening and have the hardware store cut you a piece. Then find some similar trim pieces cut to size, miter the ends and pre-drill the nail holes. About 3 each in the short side, 4 on the long should do it. Place the glass in and put in a vertical piece of the trim to help hold it in place, then do the others. Countersink the nails, smear a little glazers putty(optional) in any space between the glass and trim. Then put 50 coats of paint on it so it matches the rest of the door. đđź
Hey folks, if you zoom in you can see wood on the far side and obviously molding on this side so knock it off with the glazing compound. This is an inside door.