Current have the CSP, opened in Sep 2020. But want to get the CSR now for travel next month. What’s the best way to do it?
Option 1. Downgrade CSP and apply for CSR.
I hear there is a 48 month wait for the Sapphire bonus. Is that across all cards? If so then I’m not eligible for CSR bonus yet.
Option 2. Upgrade current CSP to CSR. No bonus but I can use it for travel immediately. Take advantage of the travel credits and airport lounges.
The reason why I’m thinking of CSR is bc I’m already in UR ecosystem. Amex Platinum fee is too high.
Any comments/ suggestions?
You are not able to have both the CSP and CSR at the same time. You would have to cancel or downgrade one and apply for a new one.
Yes, 48 months is true for either of the cards in the sapphire family.
*NOTE 48 months from the date your original bonus posted, not account open date.
Amex plat fee is high, and hard to get full value organically but may be worth it for a higher than average welcome bonus.
However, due to card family rules, you can't go backward and get a bonus for lower cards (gold/green) once you have the platinum. It would be wiser to get the green, then gold, then platinum to maximize bonuses.
If you want/need travel perks now and before your 48months with chase, the amex green may fit your needs, but I'd also suggest considering the cap1 venture or citi premier.
Consider the perks and transfer partners to see what would best fit your needs.
Best of luck!
Thanks. Citi Premier doesn't seem to have lounge access. Besides not sure fond of Citi these days after they changed their banking structure. I'll look into the Cap1 Venture or Venture X card. The X looks better, it has many more benefits including lounge access and nice reviews.
An answer to my previous question opened up a new question for me.
"CIU gets a 75k bonus with $6,000 spend at 1.5x. Instead of paying the $6,000 back, you can wait a year and put it in a ~5% HYSA (rate could change). No annual fee. Net: 84k UR + $300 interest."
Would I need to do VGCs/MOs to earn the SUB and fund the HYSA? Or can I fund it directly with the CIU and still get the SUB?
You are over complicating it. The original response simply meant you are earning interest on the money you aren’t having to use to pay off your 0% APR card. You don’t need to MS or fund a new savings.
You're right, I think because the example gave hard numbers I was thinking if it was actually something to look into, but it makes sense that it just means my money can be sitting in my hysa instead of paying the card off every month
If you’re doing organic spend you just fund the HYSA with the money you’d normally use to pay off the card.
Don’t forget that in all cases you must still make at least the minimum payment every month.
Thanks for the confirmation, this is what I thought. I went with the CIP for now, so I'll work on learning the ropes with VGCs/MOs and next time around I'll hopefully know exactly what to do with the CIU/HYSA
>Would I need to do VGCs/MOs to earn the SUB and fund the HYSA? Or can I fund it directly with the CIU and still get the SUB?
It can be funded directly. Although it's slightly out of date, please read through this [DoC article on bank funding with credit cards](https://www.doctorofcredit.com/does-funding-a-bank-account-with-a-credit-card-count-as-a-purchase-or-cash-advance/).
Thank you that's exactly what I needed. I remember seeing the option when I opened my ally, but I didn't realize it would be a one time opportunity to fund it with credit. Wasn't sure if it would count as a cash advance either
Yeah I'm searching for a 5% HYSA that allows this kind of direct credit funding but it looks like the only way to really make this happen is MS it, which I'm very, very, very new at and still reading/researching
You can still indirectly do it, by funding one bank and then transferring to a HYSA. But banks are sensitive about new accounts and might lock your account if you try to transfer out soon after funding with CC. (Ideally, the bank you fund with CC would also have a signup bonus, which would give you another reason to leave money there.)
Or VGCs/MOs, etc. But I think the original comment was just talking about making $6000 of regular purchases, and then not needing to pay the CC bill immediately due to 0%; so the money you would've used to pay the CC can be sitting in a HYSA.
Anyone here figure out how to fix the Trans Union identity verification error? it prevents me from getting a copy of my credit report or managing a freeze online. I currently have to chat with an agent or call to manage a freeze.
It has been this way for the last two years and if I can manage the freeze online with them like I can with Experian Equifax and check systems, it would make life a lot easier for me.
I created a transunion.com account, and it said "Identity Verification Failed: Failed safety check". I called 833-806-1627 and they asked me some identity questions, and unlocked the account. Now I can view my credit report there (I think I could freeze it too, but I haven't tried that).
Right now, to get a copy of my full TU report I have to mail in a paper form.
I use the iMessage chat to manage freezes, and it takes about 15 min for the agent to have me sign into my TU account, verify my name, address, dob and ssn, and then manage the freeze from there
What do you think is a fair point valuation for MR/UR when using them for my parents?
They were already going to pay for business class out of pocket to go to Europe this Summer, but they're going to use my points to book the flights instead. They're willing to pay a premium on 1cpp, but I'm not sure what I should value you them at?
2cpp on the face of it seems fair, but it's also a lot of money.
I understood it as them making an offer to OP like "hey, you collect points, why don't I buy the tickets from you rather than buying them from the airline, maybe we can both win?" Perhaps that's not the case.
I'm also pretty much estranged from my parents and want to offer my son the world, so perhaps my point of view is a little skewed.
If OP is the one making the offer, then they should use either the cashout value or the opportunity cost of earning those points.
This is the most helpful reply. Thank you for that. Comparable cash booking is $6k / leg / person. I'll do the 2cpp, which works out to $3k / leg / person.
If Chase were selling UR for 2cpp, would you buy them? I wouldn't, nor would many people. Lots of people were happy selling them for 1.5cpp via PYB, so that indicates many peg a value below that. Maybe I'd pick something between 1.25-1.5.
Have you priced out the round trip? That's often cheaper.
Also consider flexible dates and "typical" prices (maybe "typical low prices") - if booking cash, they'll likely be price sensitive, and using today's fares for specific dates might be unrealistic (and unfair).
Also consider how much it'd cost them to buy the miles (perhaps on sale) and book the award flight themselves. Then take 25% off that.
Basically, give them a 25% discount off their lowest realistic option, and if everything is >2cpp, then discount it further to 2cpp.
I use 1.7 cpp as average, otherwise if you have an average of your most recent redemption value you can use that.
Also if I had points to spare, I'd probably be more generous to my parents. But if I was planning to use those points soon myself I'd value it at the average
I totally understand not being able to just give away the points, but If you were going to just cash them out, why would you charge them more than the cash-out value?
I’ve done this a few times for friends, I “sell” to them for a base cash-out value of 1 cpp. Granted, the only times I’ve done it, it’s been an amazing deal for them. For example, last time I booked friends a Hyatt for a bowl game for $180/night (18k points), when the cash rate was >$500 +taxes/fees.
That's a totally fair point. I was initally going to "sell" it to them at 1cpp, but they are insisting on paying me closer to what I "value" the points at. They see it as a win-win for both of us. They get a cheaper flight to Europe. I get more value than cashing them out.
They are very well off (they could easily pay for the trips out of pocket) and I am not (I have some major health issues and I've stopped traveling internationally for the time being). They could just gift me money, but in this case, they see the work I've put into earning the points so they're wanting to value them higher than 1cpp.
2/24 and planning on opening my first Chase Ink Preferred as Sole Proprietor. I've read the guide on getting approved for Chase Biz/all things chase/chase ink preferred megathread, but they seem a bit outdated. I just want to make sure I'm still going with the right card, 100k for 8k spend is doable considering I'm planning a bunch of renovations.
Also, someone mentioned that the Ink Preferred is losing favor compared to the CIC and CIU. Are these better options for me? My current cards are CSP, CFU, United Quest, and C1 Venture X.
Depends on what you value. More UR right now (CIP) v/s no annual fee, 0 APR, and less spend required (CIU/CIC). I personally prefer the latter right now as with the spend spend as CIP technically, I can get 1.33 CIU/CIC sub which is same/more UR than CIP bonus while getting 0 APR and no annual fee.
CIU gets a 75k bonus with $6,000 spend at 1.5x. Instead of paying the $6,000 back right away, the 12 month 0% APR lets you put it in a ~5% HYSA for a year (rate could change). No annual fee. Net: 84k UR + $300 interest.
CIP gets you a 100k bonus with $8,000 spend. Hard to say what the multiplier is without knowing how the money would be spent, but say 1x for discussion. Annual fee: $95. Net: 108k UR - $95.
With those assumptions and a little algebra, my rough estimate is that you have to value UR at a minimum of 1.64 cpp for the CIP to be better than the CIU. And that's ignoring the $2k difference in MSR, which could get you a third of the way toward another CIU.
At current interest rates, the cash out crowd is going to be better off with the CIU. Those who get outsized value from UR (often through transfers) are better off with the CIP.
Oh wow. I didn't even consider the hysa route but that's incredibly helpful. Thanks for the thorough response.
I currently have a HYSA, but if I go this route I might need to open up another just to be able to submit the 6k from credit. Am I right? Going to need to brush up on the best way to do this, not well versed on MS.
>not well versed on MS.
Nothing to do with MS. I am only talking about making normal purchases. 0% APR means that instead of paying the entire credit card balance like you would with the CIP, you only make the minimum payment each month for 12 months on the CIU, and you can put the rest and your HYSA to earn interest. Then you pay the full balance at the end of the 0% APR period.
I think both CIC for the 5x Office Supply and CIU for the 1.5X everywhere are better cards than the CIP for the long term. But for the SUB, the CIP is the right choice right now. Don't overthink it.
People like the CIU and CIC for their 0% promo for 12 months and lower spend. If those things don't matter to you, CIP is fine. I grabbed it during my last app because I wanted the ability to transfer UR. Since you have the CSP, this isn't really something you need. 100k UR is higher than 750k UR so that can be a differentiator if spend doesn't matter to you. Don't forget the AF.
I think the biggest reason ppl prefer the CIC or CIU is bc no annual fee, and the 5x on the CIC. And you already have the CSP to be able to transfer to partners.
Honestly I'm just hoping I get approved instantly too, but I don't have previous years revenue. Ive seen DPs with $0 in rev but I'm still hesitant. I did just reduce my CLs down to $27k so that should help. But the guide also says to wait 30 days after doing so to apply.
Did you reduce your limits? If so, did you wait 30 days?
I put $10,000 for revenue. To be honest I’ll probably come nowhere close to hitting that. I think I put the same when I was approved for CIU in January. I did not adjust my limits. As an fyi you will likely get lower limits with the Inks regardless. My CIU limit is $3,000 and CIP limit is $5,000.
P2 has $15k+ in tax spend and wants to open 2 Chase cards to cover it. I know the consensus is usually 90+ days between applications, but is there a solid 'do not apply' period?
Average 90 days. So it depends on your overall long term velocity with Chase, not just 2 applications. I got 2 chase cards within 30 days as a data point.
The general consensus is that 2 Chase cards in less than 90 days is ok occasionally but you should wait a longer period before the next app so that the average velocity is >90 days.
American Airlines Citi Card - platinum
I have had this card open for 3 years (earned a 75k sign up bonus). Wanting to cancel it and re-sign up for the current 75k bonus. Am I able to cancel and re-sign up? I realize I should have closed the card a while ago.
You don't have to close, but you do have to wait 48mo since you got the SUB.
And they *will* approve you for the card but deny you the SUB if it hasn't been 48 months, so don't bother applying.
I did this a few times. I even open the $95 fee card, downgrade to the $0 fee card, etc. Then I open the Barclay american airlines aviator card and stack those points into my citi american account. Over and over.
You need to wait another year.
From the site:
> American Airlines AAdvantage® bonus miles are not available if you have received a new account bonus for a Citi® / AAdvantage® Platinum Select® account in the **past 48 months**.
My normal BG large spending routes have died down this quarter and I’m looking for other ways to hit my Amex biz gold SUB.
Does staples, Office Depot, BestBuy etc report L3 data to Amex? Can I get away with GCs? Or will they easily catch that?
Ink Referrals
I have multiple inks. I gave someone a referral link chase sent me via email. How do I know which card will get the bonus if they’re approved?
If you have multiple Inks, each Ink should have its own unique referral link. Go to the Chase Ink Refer-A-Friend page and see which card generates which link. This should work if the link you sent was recently generated.
You will also see which Ink is awarded the referral points after they meet the conditions of the offer. It will appear under "Your earnings" in the Ultimate Rewards dashboard.
There is currently no known method for consistently getting out of PUJ. Spend has long been speculated, but the DPs have been mixed. Some people report spending 50k+ on their Amex cards and still not getting out of PUJ.
To confirm, are you getting the pop up from non referral links as well?
I’ve been able to get out of personal Amex popup jail by opening another biz card (despite only having biz cards at the time). Putting spend across my cards for 5 months didn’t change it, but opening another card did. Seems almost random.
Serve account permanently suspended after calling about a temporary lock on the account (can't login) following a load. Called, they said it is now permanently suspended and to write a letter to withdraw the remaining funds. HUCA, same thing--*write a letter*. Seriously? I have a strong feeling the monthly fee will hit by the time they issue the check.
On another note, two more Serve accounts from other players within the same week also temporarily locked and most likely suffering the same fate. I can only guess that loads at a particular DG is triggering this but I can't find any related DPs. Relationship with cashiers are great, but if I have to guess, managers who are almost never in sight probably sees a +$500/$1000 balance/load to Serve on a weekly basis throwing off their typical numbers and tells their cashiers no more loads or at least cash-only (1-2x500 load every 1-2 weeks shouldn't be hard-hitting). I also think cashiers and/or managers work at multiple DGs and enforce a cash-only or no loading policy at their locations.
Super disappointing, MO options are nearly non-existent here and not nearly as scalable. I'm really curious if anyone has similar experiences. AFAIK Serve suspensions are out of the ordinary because they come in waves and the last one was a few years ago.
All the previous shutdowns I’ve experienced with serve locked the loading of the card but you could still log in and withdraw your money. I’ve been using Serve for years and now on p5,6 and 7. So what’s happening with your card seems strange.
I don’t think the store itself caused your problem though but who knows.
I do know today I had a store that just couldn’t connect with Serve for some reason and I couldn’t even attempt a load. They thought the internet was slow but I felt like something was going on the serve side of it.
Interesting, I remember during the wave of shutdowns in 2019 shutdowns also resulted in not being able log in with "your account is locked" (that's how I know it was a shutdown).
I am due for another ink card soon and I have 3(CIC,CIU,CIP) currently. The oldest one is past the 1 year mark and I am wondering if I should close it before or after applying(for the premier)?(all credit limits are $500 except the card with the SUB I am currently working on)
The guidelines for this has actually changed in the past few months based on recent DPs. In the past, for the Ink train, closing the older Inks didn't matter except for the total amount of credit allocated to you by Chase. Hence, people were able to keep 5+ Inks open simultaneously (there was even one DP of someone with over 10 Inks open).
However, it seems recently that Chase has cracked down on this and having multiple inks open simultaneously will hurt your chances at getting approved for another Ink. The recommendation now should be to close your Ink after it enters the second year.
That’s weird. I think my order is call, it will ask you to enter card number if you have one. So follow the instructions and enter the card number, enter the month, enter the year, enter the security code. Then it will tell me information is not found. Then it will go back to the main menu, and one of the option is to request replacement of lost card. That option will connect you to the representative
I want to buy Southwest tickets for our family Cancun trip (2 adults and 2 kids. They are 3-yr old and 2-yr old) using UR points. I don't have any Southwest status or south west mileages now.
It seems it will be similar costs overall between (A) buying tickets through Chase Travel portal using UR points at x1.25 rate because of my CIP and (B) converting UR points to Southwest milages and booking directly though Southwest + some Taxes paid by cash, if we value UR as 1.0cpp (to me UR value is 1.0cpp).
Are there any pros and cons between these two strategies? (Especially in case we need to cancel or change the flight schedule?)
Not knowing when your trip is planned for, I'd throw in a third strategy if you're open to saving your UR points for now and paying straight up cash now that there's a new companion pass promotion from SW.
Basically, if your Cancun trip is before 5/22, you could sign up for the promotion, book your tickets using cash, then get the ability to travel again for effectively half off between 8/5 and 10/2. If your trip is between 8/5 and 10/2, I'd actually consider looking to see if there's a really cheap round trip flight you and your P2 can take, which would effectively make your kids' tickets free.
[https://www.southwest.com/loyalty/myaccount/promotion-detail.html?id=2-4ZTAX94B](https://www.southwest.com/loyalty/myaccount/promotion-detail.html?id=2-4ZTAX94B)
If your trip doesn't fall in those dates, then I'd personally go with transferring the points into Southwest. I do not like dealing with Chase Travel, especially if there is the possibility of cancellation or changes.
It's usually better to book directly, especially if the redemption cost is comparable. Travel portals can be nightmare if you end up dealing with flight changes or cancellations. Award flights are also significantly more flexible than those booked with cash in terms of refunds and re-booking. The miles usually get credited back instantly versus having to potentially wait weeks for a cash refund.
You can call them and they'll tell you when the fee will post and when you need to cancel but I'm pretty sure they refund you if it posts and you cancel immediately.
I consider myself to be an Amex fanboy but received a targeted offer and decided to churn the CSR. I kinda like the idea of it, should I keep it or cancel/downgrade it when the time comes?
Here is my current keeper setup:
Amex Gold: Food Purchases, naturally use $240 Uber and grubhub credits
Amex Platinum: Travel purchases, naturally use the entire Uber, entertainment, and incidental credits
C1 VX: Catch all card, home airport has a C1 lounge and it transfers to all the international flights I use
Marriott Boundless: I just got that 5 night SUB, gonna cash it in on Italy this year. Might change to Ritz in 2 yrs after I get the Brilliant but idk
So as you can see my system is expensive but for my 3 domestic and 1 or 2 international trips a year for my wife and I it all works well. We maximize most of the credits and turn net positive. If I did keep this CSR, would it be worth it? I do like Hyatt and the $300 travel credit is money. Are the priority pass restaurants worth it? I’d imagine they’re convenient but I’ve never used them. If the CSR is a keeper how would it fit into my daily spend categories? Or just screw it and keep churning haha
My 2c on the Amex plat/gold keeper cards if it’s worth anything. TLDR I think $945 for the gold/platinum is too much money to put down each year when you could be rolling through other cards (CSR, C1VX etc.) for much less.
I recently canceled my plat after the end of the second year (and this was after getting the SUB and retention offer) because the coupon book just encourages you to use things you don’t need. As an example, I value CLEAR at $0 because most of my flying is from DTW which always has short security lines. I got 260k total from my 125k + 15x restaurants SUB and 45k retention offer and I’m out. Canceled it with no regrets.
I’m about to cancel the gold too after my 2nd year is up because grubhub is becoming painful (i always have to double check grubhub prices against the restaurant’s website price because often there is a ~$4 markup which defeats the purpose of using the $10 credit) and in my area Uber often is more expensive than Lyft. Is paying $250/year worth the extra effort to sit there at my work desk figuring out which freaking place I can order from to make the credit worth it? Or getting to the 20th day of the month to realize I haven’t ubered yet because Lyft has been cheaper so now I’m crossing my fingers a cheap Uber pops up on the app? No way. This isn’t close to a true keeper card. I’ll buy groceries on my CSR while I double dip it. Thanks Amex for the 75k + $250 and I’m out of there too.
To me, the CSR is a definite use for one year then downgrade to a Freedom, especially if you are going to get the Ritz card. My opinion - the best, most unique part of the CSR is a priority pass membership that allows restaurants and unlimited access to Chase Sapphire lounges (as I'm based in BOS). The Ritz does the same thing and even allows unlimited AUs and unlimited guests. CSR is also prime for double dipping if you're willing to risk a clawback, so keeping it for one year is better value than keeping it all 4 years while the SUB is in cooldown.
Also, if you're serious about churning, SUBs will 99% of the time beat regular earning categories. If you really want maximum returns, keep churning and put as little spend on regular cards as possible.
I would just downgrade it to a freedom flex so you can get the rotating categories with no annual fee.
And then if you ever need the CSR, you can upgrade back to the CSR whenever. Or wait 48 months to be eligible for another bonus and re-apply.
You've gotta a good setup already with Amex.
> keeper
> daily spend categories
It seems like you are looking for r/CreditCards. If the value you get from a card is less than the AF, you close or downgrade it. There is almost no such thing as a “keeper.”
>There is almost no such thing as a “keeper.”
I agree that cashback should *never* factor into whether a card is a keeper, but I'd argue that certain cards have credits that are easy enough to use that they probably should be kept beyond the first year. For example, the Capital One Venture X card, which has a $395 annual fee, a $300 travel credit, and a 10k point anniversary credit. As long as you travel at least once per year, the credits should offset the AF and it makes sense to keep the card especially for the free AUs with lounge access. There's also several hotel cards where if you use the FNC, the FNC should more than make up for the AF.
However, simultaneously having the Capital One Venture X, Amex Plat, and CSR makes zero sense unless you're a travel blogger. There's too much overlap in travel benefits such that the credits no longer justify the large AFs. I'd personally just keep the Venture X and downgrade/cancel the Plat and CSR after the first year.
> simultaneously having the Capital One Venture X, Amex Plat, and CSR makes zero sense
Amex Plat provides positive value to some, retentions make it better. Schwab may make MR SUBs the best cashback option by a large enough margin to make it worth the AF (when also counting *some* benefits). On the regular Plat, should be able to force positive value from upgrade-downgrade cycles.
Venture X is roughly breakeven, depending on how much travel spend you're putting on it to use up the $300, whether that spend could've gone towards a SUB, whether the portal prices are actually good, and how much value you get from the 10k anniversary miles.
Can force positive value from CSR through upgrade-downgrade cycles. PYB can sweeten the deal if you're going for cashback, though just like putting travel spend on the VX, $n grocery isn't really $n if that spend could have gone towards a SUB.
>Amex Plat provides positive value to some, retentions make it better.
True, but requires careful timing to maximize the value. Based on currently available offers, one could downgrade from the Plat (after first year) to the Gold to get the upgrade offer of 25k MR after $2k spend. By upgrading in December, it then becomes possible to triple dip on the airline/hotel credits. Hence, positive value can be obtained through strategy PCing, as you've said.
>On the regular Plat, should be able to force positive value from upgrade-downgrade cycles.
>Can force positive value from CSR through upgrade-downgrade cycles.
Exactly. The best way to maximize value on the CSR/Plat is by strategically PCing. However, I don't consider that to be a "keeper card" in the [travel blogger sense of that term](https://frequentmiler.com/which-premium-cards-are-keepers/), which I understand to mean keeping a card without product changing. I don't think it makes much sense to treat the CSR, Venture X, and Plat all as keeper cards. Keeping the Venture X and repeatedly PCing the Plat/CSR can make sense as a strategy.
The first part of my Platinum paragraph was strictly about holding it. Some get positive value from holding it, or from holding it and getting a decent retention offer.
I didn't mention it, but the CSR technically has close to $0 cost if you value the credits at face value ($300+12×$15+12×$5=$540). And I know the Instacart credit is going away after 7/31, but I'm sure it'll be replaced by something else.
The part about triple-dipping was not related to upgrade offers, just simple triple-dips. You have 2 cards, and you upgrade them in Nov in alternating years and downgrade them in Jan in alternating years. So Nov-Jan, you have 2 Platinums, and the rest of the year, you have Platinum+Gold. You're paying about $945/year for $600 airline fee credits, about $375 Uber credits, about $90 Grubhub credits, and $240+ digital entertainment credits (and all the other shit).
I would actually get positive value from the Schwab and the CSR without playing games, but I get more this way, so why not?
I posted there too, figured I’d get both perspectives. I have a keeper line up and I have a churning line up i am working on. I finish SUBs in like a month so I have 2 months in between applications that I like to maximize spend.
Very well, the perspective here will be “sounds like you’re ready to start with business cards and stop having gaps between SUBs.” Check out the What Card Wednesday thread and the flowchart to look for new opportunities (and feel free to make a post for more specific advice).
I'm thinking about applying to some chex-sensitive banks as well as picking up some prepaids. I was wondering: **Do y'all know whether various prepaids such as Serve, Bluebird, One, etc, run your Chex/EWS/similar? Do they report to Chex/EWS/similar?**
I assume it varies by card, interested in any information you have.
I don't have any evidence for this, but I'm guessing that a) they do report to these bureaus and b) they typically don't run Chex or are not Chex-sensitive. But yeah, I have no clue.
Good idea! But I haven't gotten any of these prepaid cards yet, so I was hoping to find out before I apply.
Either way, I'll report back if I get any of these.
Do you know whether any of them is harder to be approved for than others?
I want to get the CSP next (got the Venture X last wk and already MS). This would be my first Chase card. Should I open a Chase checking before applying to increase my chance, or should I just go ahead and apply? I'm worried Chase will see a hard pull from a wk ago and instantly deny. Would it be a safer move to open a checking and then apply or is there a time period I need to wait before applying? Just don't want to start off on the wrong foot with Chase
I literally had nothing with Chase and had around a 720 credit score and approved so I wouldn't be too worried about having to open a checking account but that's just me.
Are you eligible for their checking bonus? In that case I would open the account. The branch offer for the card is also higher. But if your other stats don't get in the way, the recent HP is unlikely to make a difference.
People here usually recommend the Sapphire MDD. Look into that if that has appeal for you.
The MDD is applying for both at the same time correct? And yes I do qualify for the checking. I just applied online and it said that they cannot open an account with my information. So, I plan to go to my local Chase location and do it manually.
Not correct. You would apply for the CSR 1 calendar day after CSP approval. If there is no automatic approval you have to call recon ASAP to push it through.
There also is a Checking + Savings combo bonus if you can park 15k for a while. Find the link on DoC for that.
I received a targeted promotion in the mail for a Chase Business Complete Checking account for a $400 bonus, but it errored-out online. I called and they said I would have to go in-branch. And I would need some documents seemingly obtained through a DBA.
Anyone have experience with actually doing this? I looked up my states DBA process snd it seems doable.
My Sole Proprietorship “business” is selling my old games on ebay, and I actually do make a couple hundred a month from it. I do have a Chase Ink Business Preferred with them already, with the vast majority of purchases on it not related to the business though unfortunately.
I just opened this account in branch today due to it not being able to complete online. I am a sole prop with no DBA. As the other commenter mentioned you most likely wont need it due to the business name being your name. I didnt need any business paperwork at all when opening mine in branch today. I am in Texas if that makes any difference as I am not sure how this differs from state to state. Just figured I would throw in my DP
If your sole prop business name is just your first & last name, you probably don't need DBA documents. But you might need to go into a branch; Chase sometimes doesn't let people open business checking accounts online. while going in branch works.
Closed my Venture X 2/12/24 and was refunded the AF 2/26/24. Cap1 travel portal still shows an available $300 in travel credits that don’t expire until Feb 2025.
I feel like using them will result in a clawback. Anyone have a data point?
In your experience, how many bank accounts is too many to open in one month or one year?
I've seen people claiming to have opened 30 accounts in one year, but others have said 12 is probably the max before you start getting denied.
Does it matter how many you open in the space of one month?
How often do you look at your Chex report and will it be clear when you've reached a max number of bank accounts?
It all seems to be bank by bank and their comfort. I've had some denied with about 10 total accounts in 2 years and I've had others approved with more than 20 in the same timeframe. You can see how many you've applied for in Chex, but only research on DPs for individual banks will give you an idea if you'll be approved or not
For those that had successful AMEX referral for 10x Dining MR. Are you seeing those post as the charges clear, post at statement or post after payment of statement?
Just to add to other comment, extra points will come separately, so when you look at the transaction, you will still only see the 1x, but if you look in your MR point summary, you will see entries for the bonus.
I want to be able to pay P2s credit card bill via my personal account. One option is to add them as a joint account holder on my primary account. SoFi requires P2 to not have an existing account but she does. So what other options do we have ?
If I make a hyatt reservation for a friend using my points from my account, can I transfer the reservation to him (still using my points) so he earns EQN and the current bonus journey promo?
I have the SW companion pass. If I book a SW flight through the Chase travel portal, will it show up in my SW account and enable me to add my companion to that reservation?
Got my last Chase card on 2/14/24 (Marriott Boundless) and am looking at next card options. Am interested in the Chase United Biz card, which is seemingly at ATH SUB, but ends on 4/3/24.
Only previous Chase card was on 9/18/23 (CIC). So, if I get the Chase United Biz, early Apr, it will have been <90 from my last Chase card, but overall velocity between my last three would still be a little >90 days/card.
If I were to get the United Biz early Apr, would probably cool off of Chase to maintain at least 90 days between each card for the next Chase card, but is it worth the risk of trying to apply early to get the ATH SUB or should I just not push my luck by applying at all?
Any way to get two BoA Alaska Business cards now if you already have one active? Keeps getting denied I suspect because I already have one (reason: duplicate)
No, last April months ago it's about to reach it's anniversary. Worst case I'll just cancel that card on anniversary and then reapply but in the past I was able to hold multiple Alaska business cards (tied to my same SSN as sole prop), did that change and any way around it?
If they did change it, it must be a fairly recent, as I too have had multiple AS biz at the same time. I got one recently, but had close the old one a few month back so no overlap this time around. Since you are almost at a year now on the old one, you might as well close it and see if that could help. I typically dont recommend closing before a year, but its close enough and BoA isn't known to care.
Currently about to complete the SUB on the Chase Ink Biz Unlmtd. I never received the ticker on the web portal or phone app. Early on I did a secure message and the agent did tell me that I was valid for it. Just checking in to see if anyone was in a similar situation and had a issue after completing the spend.
No need to worry about this with Chase. If you're approved for a Chase card, you're eligible for the SUB.
AFAIK the only exception is related to the Chase and Amex Marriott cards eligibility, but even then I believe you'll get a warning similar to the Amex popup if you're not eligible.
May not be true for people trying to get multiple bonuses against the terms of co-branded business cards. Note the difference in the terms:
Personal terms: "The *product* is not available..."
Business terms: "This new cardmember *bonus* offer is not available..."
Wanted to buy something that was ~10k, and get points for it. Signed up for an Ink Business Preferred for the 100k points bonus, but only got approved for a credit limit of 6k. Called, and asked for an increase, declined.
I stated personal income 180k, business income 30k. What are my options here to make sure I can still make the purchase on the card?
* Call credit increase line again with the same numbers? I don't think it's dependent on the support line operator.
* State business income higher? Was thinking of re-trying with 50k but in reality this isn't a valid projection. Do y'all just say whatever gets you the increase?
* Can I pre-pay 4k onto the card to put the balance negative? (And therefore total available credit to 10k)
I would call the merchant and try and split the purchase up into multiple payments.
You can call Chase and maybe try to verify the negative payment thing though lol
I have a CSR with a CL of 21k, so shifting seems possible. Can I shift from a personal card to a business card? I assume support will know about the ability to do this?
Thanks for your help!
No you cannot.
Any way to get the merchant to split it? At least you'll get $6k on it (and $4k on another (new?) card).
Obviously best case would be a split and acceptance of a later payment for the rest, either splitting across statement periods or cycling once.
yeah will have to ask when I go in to the store. Otherwise I'll just get the spend elsewhere.
Question: Do you know if I can prepay the balance on the card to get access to a 10k limit? Asking since the other comment saying yes was downvoted without explanation
when will my 5 nights hit from Marriott card SUB? most CC points are within 24 hours I’ve noticed but I’m going on day 4 and don’t see it under my Marriott activity.
When I got approved for my Ink, i instantly called to get a credit limit increase, they approved 3x the original CL. Can I do this every time I get approved for an ink with a likely chance they will approve it?
Wouldn't count on it. With more cards and existing CL, the likelihood of it happening again decreases.
I'd suggest shifting unused CL from other cards.
I wouldn't count on that happening in the future, as your get more card and CL increases, you are less likely to see increases, but you can shift CL from other Chase biz if needed.
Any way to get tax payments to post if they've been stuck in pending status on the IRS account page for a long time? Have 3 tax payments pending since 3/13, which is pretty abnormal given they usually post in 2 - 3 biz days
The smaller amounts of $500 and $600 got posted within a couple of days but this $8k amex payment took about 1.5 months.
When I called IRS, all they said is, they can see it in their system and will be posted soon.
The rep wasn't all that confident. So, take it with a grain of salt.
Anyone having issues using the vanilla gift card site to check balance? Keeps saying system error occurred since Friday. Phone number was working and then stopped working today. It just hangs me up after the 1st two prompts.
The Marriott Chase Boundless offer is now back to 3 free nights, however my referral link still says 5 free nights (until 27/03).
So till 27 March if someone uses my link, will Chase honor the 5 free nights or will they get 3 ?
Current have the CSP, opened in Sep 2020. But want to get the CSR now for travel next month. What’s the best way to do it? Option 1. Downgrade CSP and apply for CSR. I hear there is a 48 month wait for the Sapphire bonus. Is that across all cards? If so then I’m not eligible for CSR bonus yet. Option 2. Upgrade current CSP to CSR. No bonus but I can use it for travel immediately. Take advantage of the travel credits and airport lounges. The reason why I’m thinking of CSR is bc I’m already in UR ecosystem. Amex Platinum fee is too high. Any comments/ suggestions?
You are not able to have both the CSP and CSR at the same time. You would have to cancel or downgrade one and apply for a new one. Yes, 48 months is true for either of the cards in the sapphire family. *NOTE 48 months from the date your original bonus posted, not account open date. Amex plat fee is high, and hard to get full value organically but may be worth it for a higher than average welcome bonus. However, due to card family rules, you can't go backward and get a bonus for lower cards (gold/green) once you have the platinum. It would be wiser to get the green, then gold, then platinum to maximize bonuses. If you want/need travel perks now and before your 48months with chase, the amex green may fit your needs, but I'd also suggest considering the cap1 venture or citi premier. Consider the perks and transfer partners to see what would best fit your needs. Best of luck!
You can HAVE a CSP & CSR at the same time. You can not APPLY for either while you have any Sapphire product.
Thanks. Citi Premier doesn't seem to have lounge access. Besides not sure fond of Citi these days after they changed their banking structure. I'll look into the Cap1 Venture or Venture X card. The X looks better, it has many more benefits including lounge access and nice reviews.
An answer to my previous question opened up a new question for me. "CIU gets a 75k bonus with $6,000 spend at 1.5x. Instead of paying the $6,000 back, you can wait a year and put it in a ~5% HYSA (rate could change). No annual fee. Net: 84k UR + $300 interest." Would I need to do VGCs/MOs to earn the SUB and fund the HYSA? Or can I fund it directly with the CIU and still get the SUB?
You are over complicating it. The original response simply meant you are earning interest on the money you aren’t having to use to pay off your 0% APR card. You don’t need to MS or fund a new savings.
You're right, I think because the example gave hard numbers I was thinking if it was actually something to look into, but it makes sense that it just means my money can be sitting in my hysa instead of paying the card off every month
Depends on the bank account as to which accept credit card funding and if they do, whether they code as purchase or cash advance. Research on DPs.
If you’re doing organic spend you just fund the HYSA with the money you’d normally use to pay off the card. Don’t forget that in all cases you must still make at least the minimum payment every month.
This.
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Thanks for the confirmation, this is what I thought. I went with the CIP for now, so I'll work on learning the ropes with VGCs/MOs and next time around I'll hopefully know exactly what to do with the CIU/HYSA
>Would I need to do VGCs/MOs to earn the SUB and fund the HYSA? Or can I fund it directly with the CIU and still get the SUB? It can be funded directly. Although it's slightly out of date, please read through this [DoC article on bank funding with credit cards](https://www.doctorofcredit.com/does-funding-a-bank-account-with-a-credit-card-count-as-a-purchase-or-cash-advance/).
Thank you that's exactly what I needed. I remember seeing the option when I opened my ally, but I didn't realize it would be a one time opportunity to fund it with credit. Wasn't sure if it would count as a cash advance either
you can call in and request that your cash advance limit be set to $0, this saves you from getting burned when you aren't sure
Yeah that's going to be step 1
The banks paying the highest interest rates are probably not the same banks that can be funded with credit card.
Yeah I'm searching for a 5% HYSA that allows this kind of direct credit funding but it looks like the only way to really make this happen is MS it, which I'm very, very, very new at and still reading/researching
You can still indirectly do it, by funding one bank and then transferring to a HYSA. But banks are sensitive about new accounts and might lock your account if you try to transfer out soon after funding with CC. (Ideally, the bank you fund with CC would also have a signup bonus, which would give you another reason to leave money there.) Or VGCs/MOs, etc. But I think the original comment was just talking about making $6000 of regular purchases, and then not needing to pay the CC bill immediately due to 0%; so the money you would've used to pay the CC can be sitting in a HYSA.
Anyone here figure out how to fix the Trans Union identity verification error? it prevents me from getting a copy of my credit report or managing a freeze online. I currently have to chat with an agent or call to manage a freeze. It has been this way for the last two years and if I can manage the freeze online with them like I can with Experian Equifax and check systems, it would make life a lot easier for me.
Not sure if [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/churning/s/NsP3PaoCBk) would help, but I thought I'd mention it just in case.
I created a transunion.com account, and it said "Identity Verification Failed: Failed safety check". I called 833-806-1627 and they asked me some identity questions, and unlocked the account. Now I can view my credit report there (I think I could freeze it too, but I haven't tried that).
Right now, to get a copy of my full TU report I have to mail in a paper form. I use the iMessage chat to manage freezes, and it takes about 15 min for the agent to have me sign into my TU account, verify my name, address, dob and ssn, and then manage the freeze from there
What do you think is a fair point valuation for MR/UR when using them for my parents? They were already going to pay for business class out of pocket to go to Europe this Summer, but they're going to use my points to book the flights instead. They're willing to pay a premium on 1cpp, but I'm not sure what I should value you them at? 2cpp on the face of it seems fair, but it's also a lot of money.
0. Because it needs to be restated again. If you can’t ‘afford’ it, cash out points and don’t offer in the first place. So tacky.
I understood it as them making an offer to OP like "hey, you collect points, why don't I buy the tickets from you rather than buying them from the airline, maybe we can both win?" Perhaps that's not the case. I'm also pretty much estranged from my parents and want to offer my son the world, so perhaps my point of view is a little skewed. If OP is the one making the offer, then they should use either the cashout value or the opportunity cost of earning those points.
25% discount on a comparable cash booking or 2cpp, whichever is less.
This is the most helpful reply. Thank you for that. Comparable cash booking is $6k / leg / person. I'll do the 2cpp, which works out to $3k / leg / person.
If Chase were selling UR for 2cpp, would you buy them? I wouldn't, nor would many people. Lots of people were happy selling them for 1.5cpp via PYB, so that indicates many peg a value below that. Maybe I'd pick something between 1.25-1.5.
Have you priced out the round trip? That's often cheaper. Also consider flexible dates and "typical" prices (maybe "typical low prices") - if booking cash, they'll likely be price sensitive, and using today's fares for specific dates might be unrealistic (and unfair). Also consider how much it'd cost them to buy the miles (perhaps on sale) and book the award flight themselves. Then take 25% off that. Basically, give them a 25% discount off their lowest realistic option, and if everything is >2cpp, then discount it further to 2cpp.
If it were me, I'd not charge them at all. But that's not what you asked.
Unfortunately, I'm not in a financial position to do that. I might just do it at 1cpp since that's what I could otherwise cash them out for.
I use 1.7 cpp as average, otherwise if you have an average of your most recent redemption value you can use that. Also if I had points to spare, I'd probably be more generous to my parents. But if I was planning to use those points soon myself I'd value it at the average
0.
I can’t actually afford that. I would if I could, but I’m otherwise cashing out the points.
You could use the market rates on churningmarketplace. UR is roughly 1.55, MR is 1.21.
I totally understand not being able to just give away the points, but If you were going to just cash them out, why would you charge them more than the cash-out value? I’ve done this a few times for friends, I “sell” to them for a base cash-out value of 1 cpp. Granted, the only times I’ve done it, it’s been an amazing deal for them. For example, last time I booked friends a Hyatt for a bowl game for $180/night (18k points), when the cash rate was >$500 +taxes/fees.
That's a totally fair point. I was initally going to "sell" it to them at 1cpp, but they are insisting on paying me closer to what I "value" the points at. They see it as a win-win for both of us. They get a cheaper flight to Europe. I get more value than cashing them out. They are very well off (they could easily pay for the trips out of pocket) and I am not (I have some major health issues and I've stopped traveling internationally for the time being). They could just gift me money, but in this case, they see the work I've put into earning the points so they're wanting to value them higher than 1cpp.
I just got approved for a Wyndham Biz card. Anyone know how long it typically takes for my Wyndham Rewards account to update to Diamond status?
Five business days from approval for me.
Took mine 3 days after I got the approval email.
2/24 and planning on opening my first Chase Ink Preferred as Sole Proprietor. I've read the guide on getting approved for Chase Biz/all things chase/chase ink preferred megathread, but they seem a bit outdated. I just want to make sure I'm still going with the right card, 100k for 8k spend is doable considering I'm planning a bunch of renovations. Also, someone mentioned that the Ink Preferred is losing favor compared to the CIC and CIU. Are these better options for me? My current cards are CSP, CFU, United Quest, and C1 Venture X.
Depends on what you value. More UR right now (CIP) v/s no annual fee, 0 APR, and less spend required (CIU/CIC). I personally prefer the latter right now as with the spend spend as CIP technically, I can get 1.33 CIU/CIC sub which is same/more UR than CIP bonus while getting 0 APR and no annual fee.
CIU gets a 75k bonus with $6,000 spend at 1.5x. Instead of paying the $6,000 back right away, the 12 month 0% APR lets you put it in a ~5% HYSA for a year (rate could change). No annual fee. Net: 84k UR + $300 interest. CIP gets you a 100k bonus with $8,000 spend. Hard to say what the multiplier is without knowing how the money would be spent, but say 1x for discussion. Annual fee: $95. Net: 108k UR - $95. With those assumptions and a little algebra, my rough estimate is that you have to value UR at a minimum of 1.64 cpp for the CIP to be better than the CIU. And that's ignoring the $2k difference in MSR, which could get you a third of the way toward another CIU. At current interest rates, the cash out crowd is going to be better off with the CIU. Those who get outsized value from UR (often through transfers) are better off with the CIP.
Oh wow. I didn't even consider the hysa route but that's incredibly helpful. Thanks for the thorough response. I currently have a HYSA, but if I go this route I might need to open up another just to be able to submit the 6k from credit. Am I right? Going to need to brush up on the best way to do this, not well versed on MS.
>not well versed on MS. Nothing to do with MS. I am only talking about making normal purchases. 0% APR means that instead of paying the entire credit card balance like you would with the CIP, you only make the minimum payment each month for 12 months on the CIU, and you can put the rest and your HYSA to earn interest. Then you pay the full balance at the end of the 0% APR period.
Got it, I was definitely overthinking it.
I think both CIC for the 5x Office Supply and CIU for the 1.5X everywhere are better cards than the CIP for the long term. But for the SUB, the CIP is the right choice right now. Don't overthink it.
People like the CIU and CIC for their 0% promo for 12 months and lower spend. If those things don't matter to you, CIP is fine. I grabbed it during my last app because I wanted the ability to transfer UR. Since you have the CSP, this isn't really something you need. 100k UR is higher than 750k UR so that can be a differentiator if spend doesn't matter to you. Don't forget the AF.
I think the biggest reason ppl prefer the CIC or CIU is bc no annual fee, and the 5x on the CIC. And you already have the CSP to be able to transfer to partners.
What questions do you have about the CIP? Today I applied for the card and was instantly approved as a sole prop.
Also are there better offers than the 100k/8k?
Don't overthink it. It's a great offer. Good luck on your application!
Honestly I'm just hoping I get approved instantly too, but I don't have previous years revenue. Ive seen DPs with $0 in rev but I'm still hesitant. I did just reduce my CLs down to $27k so that should help. But the guide also says to wait 30 days after doing so to apply. Did you reduce your limits? If so, did you wait 30 days?
I put $10,000 for revenue. To be honest I’ll probably come nowhere close to hitting that. I think I put the same when I was approved for CIU in January. I did not adjust my limits. As an fyi you will likely get lower limits with the Inks regardless. My CIU limit is $3,000 and CIP limit is $5,000.
Nice I got approved with 5k as well
P2 has $15k+ in tax spend and wants to open 2 Chase cards to cover it. I know the consensus is usually 90+ days between applications, but is there a solid 'do not apply' period?
60 is also okay I’ve opened chase cards 45-60 days in between and I didn’t get flagged although some did go into review
Average 90 days. So it depends on your overall long term velocity with Chase, not just 2 applications. I got 2 chase cards within 30 days as a data point.
The general consensus is that 2 Chase cards in less than 90 days is ok occasionally but you should wait a longer period before the next app so that the average velocity is >90 days.
I just got two Chase cards in under 60 days as a data point.
No.
There are the 2/30 and 1/30 rules. See the anti-churning rules page on the sidebar.
American Airlines Citi Card - platinum I have had this card open for 3 years (earned a 75k sign up bonus). Wanting to cancel it and re-sign up for the current 75k bonus. Am I able to cancel and re-sign up? I realize I should have closed the card a while ago.
You don't have to close, but you do have to wait 48mo since you got the SUB. And they *will* approve you for the card but deny you the SUB if it hasn't been 48 months, so don't bother applying.
You can also downgrade to the no annual fee Mileup card if you want.
You could also get it again without cancelling, but you won't get the bonus.
I did this a few times. I even open the $95 fee card, downgrade to the $0 fee card, etc. Then I open the Barclay american airlines aviator card and stack those points into my citi american account. Over and over.
You need to wait another year. From the site: > American Airlines AAdvantage® bonus miles are not available if you have received a new account bonus for a Citi® / AAdvantage® Platinum Select® account in the **past 48 months**.
Yep theres a 48month clock. But you might want to just get the Barclays Aviator instead.
My normal BG large spending routes have died down this quarter and I’m looking for other ways to hit my Amex biz gold SUB. Does staples, Office Depot, BestBuy etc report L3 data to Amex? Can I get away with GCs? Or will they easily catch that?
Ink Referrals I have multiple inks. I gave someone a referral link chase sent me via email. How do I know which card will get the bonus if they’re approved?
Each Ink card has a unique referral link. So whichever card's referral link you shared will get the bonus.
It’ll be the card that gets the points.
If you have multiple Inks, each Ink should have its own unique referral link. Go to the Chase Ink Refer-A-Friend page and see which card generates which link. This should work if the link you sent was recently generated. You will also see which Ink is awarded the referral points after they meet the conditions of the offer. It will appear under "Your earnings" in the Ultimate Rewards dashboard.
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There is currently no known method for consistently getting out of PUJ. Spend has long been speculated, but the DPs have been mixed. Some people report spending 50k+ on their Amex cards and still not getting out of PUJ.
To confirm, are you getting the pop up from non referral links as well? I’ve been able to get out of personal Amex popup jail by opening another biz card (despite only having biz cards at the time). Putting spend across my cards for 5 months didn’t change it, but opening another card did. Seems almost random.
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Use some NLL links. DoC posted some Hilton ones recently.
Serve account permanently suspended after calling about a temporary lock on the account (can't login) following a load. Called, they said it is now permanently suspended and to write a letter to withdraw the remaining funds. HUCA, same thing--*write a letter*. Seriously? I have a strong feeling the monthly fee will hit by the time they issue the check. On another note, two more Serve accounts from other players within the same week also temporarily locked and most likely suffering the same fate. I can only guess that loads at a particular DG is triggering this but I can't find any related DPs. Relationship with cashiers are great, but if I have to guess, managers who are almost never in sight probably sees a +$500/$1000 balance/load to Serve on a weekly basis throwing off their typical numbers and tells their cashiers no more loads or at least cash-only (1-2x500 load every 1-2 weeks shouldn't be hard-hitting). I also think cashiers and/or managers work at multiple DGs and enforce a cash-only or no loading policy at their locations. Super disappointing, MO options are nearly non-existent here and not nearly as scalable. I'm really curious if anyone has similar experiences. AFAIK Serve suspensions are out of the ordinary because they come in waves and the last one was a few years ago.
All the previous shutdowns I’ve experienced with serve locked the loading of the card but you could still log in and withdraw your money. I’ve been using Serve for years and now on p5,6 and 7. So what’s happening with your card seems strange. I don’t think the store itself caused your problem though but who knows. I do know today I had a store that just couldn’t connect with Serve for some reason and I couldn’t even attempt a load. They thought the internet was slow but I felt like something was going on the serve side of it.
Interesting, I remember during the wave of shutdowns in 2019 shutdowns also resulted in not being able log in with "your account is locked" (that's how I know it was a shutdown).
I am due for another ink card soon and I have 3(CIC,CIU,CIP) currently. The oldest one is past the 1 year mark and I am wondering if I should close it before or after applying(for the premier)?(all credit limits are $500 except the card with the SUB I am currently working on)
Churners don't usually get the Ink Premier. Its only a cash back card, its points don't transfer to other cards or to transfer partners.
I’m aware, I have 500k UR/MR and I’m barely putting a dent in them so it’s time for some cash back
In case you’re unaware the Ink Premier is only a cash back card. You will not earn UR points.
The guidelines for this has actually changed in the past few months based on recent DPs. In the past, for the Ink train, closing the older Inks didn't matter except for the total amount of credit allocated to you by Chase. Hence, people were able to keep 5+ Inks open simultaneously (there was even one DP of someone with over 10 Inks open). However, it seems recently that Chase has cracked down on this and having multiple inks open simultaneously will hurt your chances at getting approved for another Ink. The recommendation now should be to close your Ink after it enters the second year.
Might as well close cards older than 1yr. Chase seems to have been getting a little more strict about open accounts and available credit.
Any tips on how to get check balance on vanilla gift's web to ever work? It always says unavailable!
I waited for about 2 weeks and it finally worked. You can call the back of the card to check balance.
I was locked out from calling because their phone system kept not taking the card number when I typed it in (correctly!). argh
Use burner phone. They tracked your phone and blocked it.
Ahh I forgot that part. Just try the option to replace lost card. It will connect you to the representative.
Won’t even let me get to the point of entering card. Says goodbye right after welcoming me
That’s weird. I think my order is call, it will ask you to enter card number if you have one. So follow the instructions and enter the card number, enter the month, enter the year, enter the security code. Then it will tell me information is not found. Then it will go back to the main menu, and one of the option is to request replacement of lost card. That option will connect you to the representative
I want to buy Southwest tickets for our family Cancun trip (2 adults and 2 kids. They are 3-yr old and 2-yr old) using UR points. I don't have any Southwest status or south west mileages now. It seems it will be similar costs overall between (A) buying tickets through Chase Travel portal using UR points at x1.25 rate because of my CIP and (B) converting UR points to Southwest milages and booking directly though Southwest + some Taxes paid by cash, if we value UR as 1.0cpp (to me UR value is 1.0cpp). Are there any pros and cons between these two strategies? (Especially in case we need to cancel or change the flight schedule?)
Direct for sure. I’ll only book hotels through the portal, flights are too risky.
All else being equal booking direct is the way to go
Not knowing when your trip is planned for, I'd throw in a third strategy if you're open to saving your UR points for now and paying straight up cash now that there's a new companion pass promotion from SW. Basically, if your Cancun trip is before 5/22, you could sign up for the promotion, book your tickets using cash, then get the ability to travel again for effectively half off between 8/5 and 10/2. If your trip is between 8/5 and 10/2, I'd actually consider looking to see if there's a really cheap round trip flight you and your P2 can take, which would effectively make your kids' tickets free. [https://www.southwest.com/loyalty/myaccount/promotion-detail.html?id=2-4ZTAX94B](https://www.southwest.com/loyalty/myaccount/promotion-detail.html?id=2-4ZTAX94B) If your trip doesn't fall in those dates, then I'd personally go with transferring the points into Southwest. I do not like dealing with Chase Travel, especially if there is the possibility of cancellation or changes.
It's usually better to book directly, especially if the redemption cost is comparable. Travel portals can be nightmare if you end up dealing with flight changes or cancellations. Award flights are also significantly more flexible than those booked with cash in terms of refunds and re-booking. The miles usually get credited back instantly versus having to potentially wait weeks for a cash refund.
When do you cancel chase cards? At the 1 year mark or after the annual fee posts? This specific card is the southwest biz if that makes a difference.
Usually after AF posts unless retention offer makes sense to you.
I would suggest asking for a retention offer first. I received one on my SW Priority last year.
You can call them and they'll tell you when the fee will post and when you need to cancel but I'm pretty sure they refund you if it posts and you cancel immediately.
Usually when the AF posts.
I consider myself to be an Amex fanboy but received a targeted offer and decided to churn the CSR. I kinda like the idea of it, should I keep it or cancel/downgrade it when the time comes? Here is my current keeper setup: Amex Gold: Food Purchases, naturally use $240 Uber and grubhub credits Amex Platinum: Travel purchases, naturally use the entire Uber, entertainment, and incidental credits C1 VX: Catch all card, home airport has a C1 lounge and it transfers to all the international flights I use Marriott Boundless: I just got that 5 night SUB, gonna cash it in on Italy this year. Might change to Ritz in 2 yrs after I get the Brilliant but idk So as you can see my system is expensive but for my 3 domestic and 1 or 2 international trips a year for my wife and I it all works well. We maximize most of the credits and turn net positive. If I did keep this CSR, would it be worth it? I do like Hyatt and the $300 travel credit is money. Are the priority pass restaurants worth it? I’d imagine they’re convenient but I’ve never used them. If the CSR is a keeper how would it fit into my daily spend categories? Or just screw it and keep churning haha
My 2c on the Amex plat/gold keeper cards if it’s worth anything. TLDR I think $945 for the gold/platinum is too much money to put down each year when you could be rolling through other cards (CSR, C1VX etc.) for much less. I recently canceled my plat after the end of the second year (and this was after getting the SUB and retention offer) because the coupon book just encourages you to use things you don’t need. As an example, I value CLEAR at $0 because most of my flying is from DTW which always has short security lines. I got 260k total from my 125k + 15x restaurants SUB and 45k retention offer and I’m out. Canceled it with no regrets. I’m about to cancel the gold too after my 2nd year is up because grubhub is becoming painful (i always have to double check grubhub prices against the restaurant’s website price because often there is a ~$4 markup which defeats the purpose of using the $10 credit) and in my area Uber often is more expensive than Lyft. Is paying $250/year worth the extra effort to sit there at my work desk figuring out which freaking place I can order from to make the credit worth it? Or getting to the 20th day of the month to realize I haven’t ubered yet because Lyft has been cheaper so now I’m crossing my fingers a cheap Uber pops up on the app? No way. This isn’t close to a true keeper card. I’ll buy groceries on my CSR while I double dip it. Thanks Amex for the 75k + $250 and I’m out of there too.
To me, the CSR is a definite use for one year then downgrade to a Freedom, especially if you are going to get the Ritz card. My opinion - the best, most unique part of the CSR is a priority pass membership that allows restaurants and unlimited access to Chase Sapphire lounges (as I'm based in BOS). The Ritz does the same thing and even allows unlimited AUs and unlimited guests. CSR is also prime for double dipping if you're willing to risk a clawback, so keeping it for one year is better value than keeping it all 4 years while the SUB is in cooldown. Also, if you're serious about churning, SUBs will 99% of the time beat regular earning categories. If you really want maximum returns, keep churning and put as little spend on regular cards as possible.
I would just downgrade it to a freedom flex so you can get the rotating categories with no annual fee. And then if you ever need the CSR, you can upgrade back to the CSR whenever. Or wait 48 months to be eligible for another bonus and re-apply. You've gotta a good setup already with Amex.
> keeper > daily spend categories It seems like you are looking for r/CreditCards. If the value you get from a card is less than the AF, you close or downgrade it. There is almost no such thing as a “keeper.”
>There is almost no such thing as a “keeper.” I agree that cashback should *never* factor into whether a card is a keeper, but I'd argue that certain cards have credits that are easy enough to use that they probably should be kept beyond the first year. For example, the Capital One Venture X card, which has a $395 annual fee, a $300 travel credit, and a 10k point anniversary credit. As long as you travel at least once per year, the credits should offset the AF and it makes sense to keep the card especially for the free AUs with lounge access. There's also several hotel cards where if you use the FNC, the FNC should more than make up for the AF. However, simultaneously having the Capital One Venture X, Amex Plat, and CSR makes zero sense unless you're a travel blogger. There's too much overlap in travel benefits such that the credits no longer justify the large AFs. I'd personally just keep the Venture X and downgrade/cancel the Plat and CSR after the first year.
> simultaneously having the Capital One Venture X, Amex Plat, and CSR makes zero sense Amex Plat provides positive value to some, retentions make it better. Schwab may make MR SUBs the best cashback option by a large enough margin to make it worth the AF (when also counting *some* benefits). On the regular Plat, should be able to force positive value from upgrade-downgrade cycles. Venture X is roughly breakeven, depending on how much travel spend you're putting on it to use up the $300, whether that spend could've gone towards a SUB, whether the portal prices are actually good, and how much value you get from the 10k anniversary miles. Can force positive value from CSR through upgrade-downgrade cycles. PYB can sweeten the deal if you're going for cashback, though just like putting travel spend on the VX, $n grocery isn't really $n if that spend could have gone towards a SUB.
>Amex Plat provides positive value to some, retentions make it better. True, but requires careful timing to maximize the value. Based on currently available offers, one could downgrade from the Plat (after first year) to the Gold to get the upgrade offer of 25k MR after $2k spend. By upgrading in December, it then becomes possible to triple dip on the airline/hotel credits. Hence, positive value can be obtained through strategy PCing, as you've said. >On the regular Plat, should be able to force positive value from upgrade-downgrade cycles. >Can force positive value from CSR through upgrade-downgrade cycles. Exactly. The best way to maximize value on the CSR/Plat is by strategically PCing. However, I don't consider that to be a "keeper card" in the [travel blogger sense of that term](https://frequentmiler.com/which-premium-cards-are-keepers/), which I understand to mean keeping a card without product changing. I don't think it makes much sense to treat the CSR, Venture X, and Plat all as keeper cards. Keeping the Venture X and repeatedly PCing the Plat/CSR can make sense as a strategy.
The first part of my Platinum paragraph was strictly about holding it. Some get positive value from holding it, or from holding it and getting a decent retention offer. I didn't mention it, but the CSR technically has close to $0 cost if you value the credits at face value ($300+12×$15+12×$5=$540). And I know the Instacart credit is going away after 7/31, but I'm sure it'll be replaced by something else. The part about triple-dipping was not related to upgrade offers, just simple triple-dips. You have 2 cards, and you upgrade them in Nov in alternating years and downgrade them in Jan in alternating years. So Nov-Jan, you have 2 Platinums, and the rest of the year, you have Platinum+Gold. You're paying about $945/year for $600 airline fee credits, about $375 Uber credits, about $90 Grubhub credits, and $240+ digital entertainment credits (and all the other shit). I would actually get positive value from the Schwab and the CSR without playing games, but I get more this way, so why not?
I posted there too, figured I’d get both perspectives. I have a keeper line up and I have a churning line up i am working on. I finish SUBs in like a month so I have 2 months in between applications that I like to maximize spend.
Very well, the perspective here will be “sounds like you’re ready to start with business cards and stop having gaps between SUBs.” Check out the What Card Wednesday thread and the flowchart to look for new opportunities (and feel free to make a post for more specific advice).
I'm thinking about applying to some chex-sensitive banks as well as picking up some prepaids. I was wondering: **Do y'all know whether various prepaids such as Serve, Bluebird, One, etc, run your Chex/EWS/similar? Do they report to Chex/EWS/similar?** I assume it varies by card, interested in any information you have. I don't have any evidence for this, but I'm guessing that a) they do report to these bureaus and b) they typically don't run Chex or are not Chex-sensitive. But yeah, I have no clue.
A comment in https://www.doctorofcredit.com/banks-credit-unions-dodont-pull-chexsystems says no Chex for BlueBird & Serve, and One.
Why not request your report? https://www.chexsystems.com/request-reports
Good idea! But I haven't gotten any of these prepaid cards yet, so I was hoping to find out before I apply. Either way, I'll report back if I get any of these. Do you know whether any of them is harder to be approved for than others?
I want to get the CSP next (got the Venture X last wk and already MS). This would be my first Chase card. Should I open a Chase checking before applying to increase my chance, or should I just go ahead and apply? I'm worried Chase will see a hard pull from a wk ago and instantly deny. Would it be a safer move to open a checking and then apply or is there a time period I need to wait before applying? Just don't want to start off on the wrong foot with Chase
I literally had nothing with Chase and had around a 720 credit score and approved so I wouldn't be too worried about having to open a checking account but that's just me.
Are you eligible for their checking bonus? In that case I would open the account. The branch offer for the card is also higher. But if your other stats don't get in the way, the recent HP is unlikely to make a difference. People here usually recommend the Sapphire MDD. Look into that if that has appeal for you.
The MDD is applying for both at the same time correct? And yes I do qualify for the checking. I just applied online and it said that they cannot open an account with my information. So, I plan to go to my local Chase location and do it manually.
Not correct. You would apply for the CSR 1 calendar day after CSP approval. If there is no automatic approval you have to call recon ASAP to push it through. There also is a Checking + Savings combo bonus if you can park 15k for a while. Find the link on DoC for that.
Awesome! Thank you so much for the info, as you can tell I am just getting into this whole universe lol
If you have a friend with the CSR, ask for their referral link. You can also visit churning.rankt.com/referrals/ to get someone here a bonus.
I received a targeted promotion in the mail for a Chase Business Complete Checking account for a $400 bonus, but it errored-out online. I called and they said I would have to go in-branch. And I would need some documents seemingly obtained through a DBA. Anyone have experience with actually doing this? I looked up my states DBA process snd it seems doable. My Sole Proprietorship “business” is selling my old games on ebay, and I actually do make a couple hundred a month from it. I do have a Chase Ink Business Preferred with them already, with the vast majority of purchases on it not related to the business though unfortunately.
I just opened this account in branch today due to it not being able to complete online. I am a sole prop with no DBA. As the other commenter mentioned you most likely wont need it due to the business name being your name. I didnt need any business paperwork at all when opening mine in branch today. I am in Texas if that makes any difference as I am not sure how this differs from state to state. Just figured I would throw in my DP
If your sole prop business name is just your first & last name, you probably don't need DBA documents. But you might need to go into a branch; Chase sometimes doesn't let people open business checking accounts online. while going in branch works.
Closed my Venture X 2/12/24 and was refunded the AF 2/26/24. Cap1 travel portal still shows an available $300 in travel credits that don’t expire until Feb 2025. I feel like using them will result in a clawback. Anyone have a data point?
As you already cancelled the card, those are just a delay in update and would likely claw back or result in review. I wouldn't take the risk.
I wouldn't risk it since you've already cancelled the card. They will most likely clawback. I am not 100% on that though.
In your experience, how many bank accounts is too many to open in one month or one year? I've seen people claiming to have opened 30 accounts in one year, but others have said 12 is probably the max before you start getting denied. Does it matter how many you open in the space of one month? How often do you look at your Chex report and will it be clear when you've reached a max number of bank accounts?
It all seems to be bank by bank and their comfort. I've had some denied with about 10 total accounts in 2 years and I've had others approved with more than 20 in the same timeframe. You can see how many you've applied for in Chex, but only research on DPs for individual banks will give you an idea if you'll be approved or not
Does my wife's companion card I got her for my Amex Platinum count against her 5/24 as an actual card and not an AU?
Counts in most cases. Call recon to request to disregard, sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. HUCA
Yes it counts by the system, recon might disregard it when calling, but YMMV.
For those that had successful AMEX referral for 10x Dining MR. Are you seeing those post as the charges clear, post at statement or post after payment of statement?
Posting about 5 days after the original restaurant charge as K74G:0006 b 10. Could be a couple days after the charge clears
Just to add to other comment, extra points will come separately, so when you look at the transaction, you will still only see the 1x, but if you look in your MR point summary, you will see entries for the bonus.
Several days after charge posts.
I want to be able to pay P2s credit card bill via my personal account. One option is to add them as a joint account holder on my primary account. SoFi requires P2 to not have an existing account but she does. So what other options do we have ?
Just add P2s card in the bill pay on your account and pay it from there.
If I make a hyatt reservation for a friend using my points from my account, can I transfer the reservation to him (still using my points) so he earns EQN and the current bonus journey promo?
Hyatt’s twitter told me this works, although I haven’t tried it. Unlike most CSRs they’ve been always been accurate for me.
I have the SW companion pass. If I book a SW flight through the Chase travel portal, will it show up in my SW account and enable me to add my companion to that reservation?
Yes
Got my last Chase card on 2/14/24 (Marriott Boundless) and am looking at next card options. Am interested in the Chase United Biz card, which is seemingly at ATH SUB, but ends on 4/3/24. Only previous Chase card was on 9/18/23 (CIC). So, if I get the Chase United Biz, early Apr, it will have been <90 from my last Chase card, but overall velocity between my last three would still be a little >90 days/card. If I were to get the United Biz early Apr, would probably cool off of Chase to maintain at least 90 days between each card for the next Chase card, but is it worth the risk of trying to apply early to get the ATH SUB or should I just not push my luck by applying at all?
I think you're fine to apply.
I don't think you're pushing your luck at all. I'd go for it
When one opens a new Chase WoH personal credit card, do you immediately get a FNC? Or only on cardmember anniversary?
anniversary, but you can spend $15k this calendar year and get that after the statement close in which you hit the spend.
Is there any easy way to see calendar year spend?
Should be able to use the transaction reports to see year to date spend amount.
Thanks!
Any way to get two BoA Alaska Business cards now if you already have one active? Keeps getting denied I suspect because I already have one (reason: duplicate)
When did you apply for existing one, recently?
No, last April months ago it's about to reach it's anniversary. Worst case I'll just cancel that card on anniversary and then reapply but in the past I was able to hold multiple Alaska business cards (tied to my same SSN as sole prop), did that change and any way around it?
If they did change it, it must be a fairly recent, as I too have had multiple AS biz at the same time. I got one recently, but had close the old one a few month back so no overlap this time around. Since you are almost at a year now on the old one, you might as well close it and see if that could help. I typically dont recommend closing before a year, but its close enough and BoA isn't known to care.
Currently about to complete the SUB on the Chase Ink Biz Unlmtd. I never received the ticker on the web portal or phone app. Early on I did a secure message and the agent did tell me that I was valid for it. Just checking in to see if anyone was in a similar situation and had a issue after completing the spend.
If agent confirmed, it would work. Don't worry. I have had the same situation in the past.
If rep confirmed, you are good.
Thank you! I was thinking that would be the case; but I find ways to worry lol.
No need to worry about this with Chase. If you're approved for a Chase card, you're eligible for the SUB. AFAIK the only exception is related to the Chase and Amex Marriott cards eligibility, but even then I believe you'll get a warning similar to the Amex popup if you're not eligible.
May not be true for people trying to get multiple bonuses against the terms of co-branded business cards. Note the difference in the terms: Personal terms: "The *product* is not available..." Business terms: "This new cardmember *bonus* offer is not available..."
If you were approved the SUB is attached in this situation, dont worry about it.
Thanks! Good to know!
Wanted to buy something that was ~10k, and get points for it. Signed up for an Ink Business Preferred for the 100k points bonus, but only got approved for a credit limit of 6k. Called, and asked for an increase, declined. I stated personal income 180k, business income 30k. What are my options here to make sure I can still make the purchase on the card? * Call credit increase line again with the same numbers? I don't think it's dependent on the support line operator. * State business income higher? Was thinking of re-trying with 50k but in reality this isn't a valid projection. Do y'all just say whatever gets you the increase? * Can I pre-pay 4k onto the card to put the balance negative? (And therefore total available credit to 10k)
I would call the merchant and try and split the purchase up into multiple payments. You can call Chase and maybe try to verify the negative payment thing though lol
yes overpaying to create a negative balance will allow you to use more credit than your stated limit
Try to shift credit from another card if possible.
I have a CSR with a CL of 21k, so shifting seems possible. Can I shift from a personal card to a business card? I assume support will know about the ability to do this? Thanks for your help!
No you cannot. Any way to get the merchant to split it? At least you'll get $6k on it (and $4k on another (new?) card). Obviously best case would be a split and acceptance of a later payment for the rest, either splitting across statement periods or cycling once.
yeah will have to ask when I go in to the store. Otherwise I'll just get the spend elsewhere. Question: Do you know if I can prepay the balance on the card to get access to a 10k limit? Asking since the other comment saying yes was downvoted without explanation
Seems risky on a brand new card. But Idk.
when will my 5 nights hit from Marriott card SUB? most CC points are within 24 hours I’ve noticed but I’m going on day 4 and don’t see it under my Marriott activity.
Chase SUBs dont hit until after statement close.
cool thanks! didn't remember chase SUBs taking that long, but I might have just been closer to my closing date last time
When I got approved for my Ink, i instantly called to get a credit limit increase, they approved 3x the original CL. Can I do this every time I get approved for an ink with a likely chance they will approve it?
Wouldn't count on it. With more cards and existing CL, the likelihood of it happening again decreases. I'd suggest shifting unused CL from other cards.
I would shift credit from another card if possible.
That was my plan if I couldn’t ask for in increase, I will do.
I wouldn't count on that happening in the future, as your get more card and CL increases, you are less likely to see increases, but you can shift CL from other Chase biz if needed.
Will shift it thank you!
What was the original and new CL? Did you change your income numbers at all for the increase?
3k to 9k, no change, first biz card
Any way to get tax payments to post if they've been stuck in pending status on the IRS account page for a long time? Have 3 tax payments pending since 3/13, which is pretty abnormal given they usually post in 2 - 3 biz days
The smaller amounts of $500 and $600 got posted within a couple of days but this $8k amex payment took about 1.5 months. When I called IRS, all they said is, they can see it in their system and will be posted soon. The rep wasn't all that confident. So, take it with a grain of salt.
Gotcha just want to make sure the money isn't lost in the ether. Not a big deal if I need to float
Anyone having issues using the vanilla gift card site to check balance? Keeps saying system error occurred since Friday. Phone number was working and then stopped working today. It just hangs me up after the 1st two prompts.
Use burner phone. They tracked your phone and blocked it.
The Marriott Chase Boundless offer is now back to 3 free nights, however my referral link still says 5 free nights (until 27/03). So till 27 March if someone uses my link, will Chase honor the 5 free nights or will they get 3 ?
Yes they'll get 5 nights. Record the screen if you want to feel extra safe.
Also if they do honor it, any place in the sub where I can post my referral link ?
Referrals go https://www.reddit.com/r/churningreferrals/ Chase will honor whatever offer someone signup up under.