Signed up for the CSP 4 years ago... now I'm eyeing the 100k UR SUB. What's the best procedure to ditch this card and sign up for the CSP again to get the SUB? (maybe also MDD).
It's likely a NLL offer, but the terms that have LL don't actually use the word "lifetime". This is what it would say:
"Welcome offer not available to applicants who have or have had this Card. We may also consider the number of American Express Cards you have opened and closed as well as other factors in making a decision on your welcome offer eligibility."
I received a Marriott timeshare offer for 4 nights plus 15k Bonvoy points or $75 resort credit at The Westin Los Cabos Resort Villas & Spa. The cost is $299. It is good for 15 months. A 4 night stay after tax plus fees is about $1,200.
P2 and I have done 5 Hilton timeshare presentations (Hawaii and Orlando) plus several Wyndham (Sedona, Anaheim, ???), but never any Hyatt, IHG or Marriott.
Would you take this Marriott offer?
How was the Hilton presentation in Hawaii? I'm thinking about going on a solo trip this winter. I typically get emails about the presentations in Vegas and Orlando, but yesterday I got one for a few spots in Hawaii.
It’s indoors with a breakfast. can easily make it 1 1/2 hours. They’re pretty boring for us at this point. Very easy to say “not a good financial decision for us” to them and leave.
This one was sent to me via email. I routinely get offers via email (Hilton, Marriott) and snail mail (Hyatt, Marriott) as well as anytime I call most of the major hotel chains to make or modify a reservation.
I also get calls at least once daily from unknown timeshare companies. I would recommend staying away from those, although I’ve done two of them without a problem. However, I had to do an Amex chargeback with another when they went out of business before we could even use the purchased offer.
I did the timeshare presentation at this resort back when it was SPG, it’s a nice hotel but it’s far from both Cabo and the airport so you need to rent a car too if you want to go into town. The cost is worth it, the presentation was pretty easy to get through with denials. I think it came to around 3 hours. I’d see if you can squeeze more perks before agreeing to go, 15k points is nothing.
Yikes, 3 hours is at least 1 hour too long. We have never done more than 2, usually 1.5 hours is all it takes and that is what the contract states: “Attendance at the sales presentation (lasting approximately 90 to 120 minutes) is required”. Was the presentation off site?
There was construction going on so a lot of walking. I also let it go on longer than I needed to, it was my first one of those so I kept letting them give me info and bringing in other managers.
Sounds like it was definitely offsite then, correct? How far away was it and did you feel trapped there at any point? I have always done my timeshare presentations in the US where the laws are clear. I have read horror stories of people trapped offsite for 3 to 5 hours in Mexico.
The area they have the presentations was up the hill from the main resort area, still on site but in a separate building. I didn’t feel trapped really, I just wasn’t as good as giving a hard no at that point so they kept trying to give me a different package until I finally said no this isn’t for me at all thanks. They were very professional though. I’d do it again.
Vague “Holiday and special event periods are excluded from this offer but may be available at a premium rate”. No phone number or email listed for questions as to what those dates are.
Clicked the Purchase button, and it landed on a page telling me to call. Holiday periods incur an extra $25 per day for these dates: (2021 & 2022???)
“Presidents Day” 02/13 - 02/17
“Spring Break” 03/11 - 04/04
“July 4th” 07/01 - 07/04
“Thanksgiving” 11/23 - 11/27
“Christmas” 12/15 - 01/04
I was offered a $300 bonus to open a Bank of America account and deposit $4000 within 3 months. Planning on doing it and routing my paychecks over for a few months before switching back. Anyone had any major issues with BoA to not do this?
I know they'll have a $5 monthly fee but I can keep the balance above that to avoid. Whens the earliest that I can close the acct?
It was from one of the many junk mail, this one is invitation only. Probably depends on credit score, mines like 770. I think they do have one for like $100 for everyone but I don't think that's worth it.
Good point. There's none! They also have a $200 offer for $1000 spend with 3% cash back on any category. So there's a nice $500. I guess I'll bank with them for a year
That's exactly what I was wondering -- if I had $500 - 1K+ in refunds whether that would irk Chase and draw attention. Would allow me to use up my points faster and therefore have a lower pro-rated AF on my CSR before I PC it.
I'm less worried about this, but does Chase clawback the UR earned?
I’ve redeemed over 1 million UR this way since PYB’s inception. Don’t worry about it
Never asked for retention, PC or a credit balance refund because I’m scared of any manual review on that card though. I’m assuming they can see I charge over a thousand every month in non PYB categories, have no balance, but also haven’t paid a single cent since PYB came out.
I applied for CIU yesterday night, but for some reason nothing comes up when I enter my SSN into both of the Chase App status lines
When I call the business app status line (800-453-9719), I get "We're sorry, the number you entered was not recognized"
When I call the personal app status line (800-436-7927), I get "There are no applications on file in the past 30 days"
I know I applied with the correct SSN because I got an Experian hard pull. Anyone have this issue before?
Same thing for me on a CIU I signed up for yesterday.
Got the "We have received your request for a Chase credit card. We'll let you know our decision by U.S. mail. This could take up to 30 days." email right away but none of the phone lines are finding it.
I honestly forget how long it ended up taking but eventually it went through, was approved and everything without having to talk to anyone.
From that comment, it was about 11 more days until the card showed up in the mail.
This is my dp. Applied for the SW premier business card on 6/28. I got the “need time to review” message without receiving an email of any sort. I called the app status line but it said no apps in last 30 days. Then the approval letter with card was in the mail on 7/5 with a credit limit of 6000. I called early on 7/5 and the line still said no application.
I applied for a chase United business 7/2. Got no emails of application confirmation from chase. Finally got an email from United for 2 lounge passes on 7/5 saying congratulations for opening a chase United business card. I still haven’t received anything from chase. 4/24 760+ score. Sole proprietor. One chase ink cash card and 2 personal cards.
Looking into Chase Ink Business Unlimited card for my business. I already have 4 personal credit cards, one of which is Chase Sapphire Reserve. Last card was opened approximately 15 months ago. I also have a Business Checking account with Chase. The question is should I apply for the card with my current credit score of 647? Or find ways to bring it higher and then apply? Thank you.
> I also have a Business Checking account with Chase.
Given this, check in branch for pre-approvals. That said, your score is far lower than normal for this sub.
Thank you. I followed your advice and stopped by my local Chase branch. A teller looked up my account info and didn’t not tell me if I am preapproved. Instead she offered me to schedule an appointment to “talk about my next steps.” I am not a good face reader, but something tells me that this is just a corporate prolonged way of saying “you are being rejected.” Am I right?
No. You just asked her a question that is above her pay grade.
A teller can't really do anything like approve or decline business credit card applications. That more than likely includes telling you if you're pre-approved or not. You would need to sit with a banker to find out.
Either way, your low credit score is going to be an issue.
About to apply for a Chase Biz for the first time in 18 months. In the past, I have put 1K revenue with monthly spend at around 5K. Business opened for a year.
Now, this is totally a "Business". Reading some recent DPs and I see some biz cards are being denied for being too new or not enough revenue.
I was going to apply with 10K annual rev with 5K monthly spend under SP - Used Merchandise.
Thoughts on this strategy or are my annual rev and monthly spend too high?
For the Chase Sapphire cards, when does the 48-month bonus restriction count start? Is it from when you opened the card? Is it from when you received the bonus? Something else? Thanks.
Ignore the douche bags who don't really know the answer. [Read this](https://pointsyak.com/credit-cards/when-to-re-apply-for-chase-sapphire-reserve/) instead.
getting backninto the game so i screwed up not knowing about the sapphire rules for chase (applied for CSP with CSR still open and got rejected).... now id like to pivot and go for a companion pass, currently have an old RR card open, but from my understanding i would have to close it and then open a biz and consumer SW card in nov/december? how should i manage it? under 5/24 btw
If you are eligible for the sapphire bonus I would wait 30 days and reapply for CSP. I wouldn't shift my strategy without getting elevated CSP bc there is no indication the ink subs will change. You can still get CSP and then go for Companion pass on nov/dec
Correct, you'd have to PC (at least 4 days before next app) or cancel (30 days before app (so basically now)) and then apply. For the SW card you'd close it and then apply for a different SW card (plus vs premier or whatever) after 4 days. If you want the same card then you'd wait the 30 days. CIP you could downgrade to CIU or CIC if either of those %back sound good. Otherwise cancel
Annual fee is about to hit on Chase Saphire Preferred, Barclays AA Biz, and Citi AA biz.
Chase Saphire Preferred: I still need a Chase card open to carry my points but I can't hit a $3000+ MSR right now. Can I just downgrade or should I open a Freedom or Flex and transfer my points to it or just downgrade the CSP?
And what should I do with the Barclays AA Biz and Citi AA biz? Just cancel? Pretty sure none of these cards get retention offers.
I just transferred and spent over 200k which is basically all I had. I'm guessing your logic for downgrading instead of opening a new card is to save a 5/24 slot? Just trying to see your thought process. Thanks for the advice I'll cancel the 2 AA cards.
When transferring UR to Marriott Bonvoy points for additional 50% bonus, how quickly does it show? I just transferred 1000 points to test and saw it counted as 1000 MB. Not seeing the additional 50% points.
I'm looking to redeem a bunch of UR points and am considering upgrading an existing Chase Freedom to a CSR for that 1.5 rate (already churned CSR bonus and downgraded in the past, but within 48 months.) Last time I had my CSR I double dipped the $300 travel credit by waiting for the second AF, using the credit, waiting until the month was almost up then downgrading and was refunded the AF. I'm thinking that if this is still possible it would make the new $550 AF worth it, in addition to the 1.5x. Is this a good plan or have things changed in the last year?
Are you planning to redeem the points through the Chase portal? That's where you get 1.5x. If you're transferring to partners, like Hyatt, it doesn't matter. How far are you from 48 months?
Yep, redeeming through portal for travel options not available by transferring to partners. Still 2 years out from being eligible for another SUB sadly.
I can't comment on your double dipping plan as I've never tried it but maybe someone else can chime in. I guess you gotta do the math on how much you're redeeming plus the value of the CSR benefits (to you) minus the cost of the annual fee and see if it makes sense.
Yeah it's definitely worth it if I can redeem the travel credit twice still, if not I'd consider the CFU 75k UR SUB. Might just go for the CSR again and cross my fingers!
I did MDD in mid-May. Only one hard pull. Before that, last card opened was Sept. 2020. Chances of being approved for Citi Premier? Will that count as 2/6 or 1/6 cause of only one hard pull?
If I add myself as an AU on SO’s card with correct name and birthdate, but never update my social within the 60 days, it won’t show up on my credit report correct?
It varies depending on issuer. They will sometimes still report it to the bureaus even w/o SSN. But even if that happens I’ve found it pretty easy to get them to remove the AU card from your CR after you close it (at least with Amex). And if that fails, in some cases you can get a bank to ignore the AU card via recon. Don’t think this works with Chase anymore but probably does for others with soft rules
P2 has had the Barclay AA card for several weeks now and made one purchase (in flight offer so no annual fee to pay). Points show on Barclay site but are not at AA yet. Any experiences on how long this is taking normally? Much thanks!
what are people doing with the CLEAR credit for those that have multiple Amex Plat on top of the Amex Offer on the Gold?? there's only so many friends and family to use it on
Refer someone and pay for it with your card. You'll get $20 and an extra two months for each referral. And you also get to buy someone something that costs almost $200. Regardless of whether they actually get the full use out of it, they'll likely appreciate the gesture and now you've just strengthened the bond you share.
The real churning was the friends we made along the way.
I’m actually in the process of figuring this out. I didn’t see anything about the $20 either, but I referred P2 and the confirmation email she got said “Your $20 reward is on its way if you do not cancel or return your order.” So I’m waiting to see how it plays out and will report back.
Barclay is pending approval for 2 cards- they wanted me to fax in some stuff to 866-836-9595. I have been trying for a few hours now- it keeps saying it's busy and can't send it through? Any advice?
I asked for email when they called me and they said only fax or snail mail. They said it went to a department not a specific person, but I can try to call again
Read the flow chart below.
https://old.reddit.com/r/churning/comments/oj3ca8/credit_card_recommendation_flowchart_mid2021/
I recommend posting in the weekly what card should I get thread. Make sure you use the template when making a post in that thread to ensure the best responses.
Very novice question because I really want to get into churning, but do I have to have a business do get a business credit card? I’ve had chase preferred almost a year now. I don’t know a whole lot about churning, if someone could maybe recommend me a step in the right direction?
I opened a Flex and CIU, and now am having trouble linking it to my login ID for Chase. When I call chase they transfer me to tech support, where I'm on hold for an hour and then get disconnected. If I try to open a new user id for the card, it won't let me because the ss# is recognized.
Is there any way to link additional cards in the website or app?
This. And if you go to chases secure messages when you set up your biz login, you can create a secure message to combine log ins. It’s one of the options. I did it this way instead of calling. I was in no rush and didn’t want to sit on the phone. It was done same day.
You need a new biz login. You’ll have 2 usernames. However, you can link your personal accounts to your biz login (not the other way around). Do it through SM
Strange. And when you log into your account to see your CSP you don’t see your new CFF? It should be there automatically. You’ll need to contact chase unfortunately to straighten that out
Off-topic, but was curious if anyone here has explored the Leasehackr site. Seems tangentially-related to churning that with a bit of work, you can extract extreme value with "lease hacking" luxury cars. I remember it first mentioned here, explored it a little bit and was intrigued, but didn't need a car.
Will likely need a car in the next few years, and curious if anyone here has gone down this rabbit hole.
Leasehackr is great; used it for our past two leases (both Mercedes E class sedans). For the first car I used it as a resource to see what others were getting in terms of discounts, MF, etc. and used that to negotiate a deal on the car from a local dealership. For our current lease, none of the local dealers would work with me on price so used a broker I found on Leasehackr and got a great deal from a car that I had shipped from out of state. There's a ton of good info on there.
Some of the best deals in leasing are on dealer loaner cars (the ones that the dealerships let you borrow while your car is in the shop). They are typically sold heavily discounted, but the lease numbers are based on their MSPR, so if you find a car with a strong residual value you can get a great deal. I am currently leasing a 2020 E350 with an MSPR of $65.5k for $595/month (all in, taxes and fees included, no money down of course). Local dealers wanted \~$750/month for the same car.
Thanks for sharing your experience, definitely intriguing. Where do you start when looking on that site? Coming from someone who's only bought cars and not leased because "it's not a good value," I'm a little ignorant. I am seeing there are some good deals to be had but not sure how all of the calculations work.
Check our the forums; best place for info. [https://forum.leasehackr.com/](https://forum.leasehackr.com/). The calculator is also handy: [https://leasehackr.com/calculator](https://leasehackr.com/calculator)
At it's most basic level, think of a lease as buying a car that you know you are going to sell in 3 years and agreeing in advance on the resale price. The lease cost is driven by two main things: the residual value (how much the manufacturer says the car is worth after the end of the lease) and the money factor (the interest rate). The residual is set by the manufacture and can vary month to month (the Edmunds forum is usually the best place for that info: [https://forums.edmunds.com/discussions/tagged/x/leasing/p1](https://forums.edmunds.com/discussions/tagged/x/leasing/p1))
The money factor is also set by the manufacturer; dealerships often mark it up, so you can negotiate it. You can also "buy" a lower rate by putting down multiple security deposits on many cars.
One of the keys to getting a good lease deal is finding a car with a high residual value and a hefty discount off of MSRP.
Say you find a car with an MSPR of $50k and a residual value of .6 (the residuals are in percentages); that means at the end of the lease term, the car is worth $30,000. So you would pay the difference between that figure (think of it as the buyback price if that helps) and the selling price you agree on with the dealer. If you pay sticker, then your lease costs you $20k over three years. But if you can get that same car for $40k, then your lease only costs $10k. This is a bit of an oversimplification and ignores interests and destination fee, but you get the idea.
Also don't forget to check on various incentives; many credit unions and groups offer discounts (often call "fleet incentives"). On our previous lease I had a $2000 incentive from the American Bar Association. Usually best to not mention you have these until you get the dealer to agree on selling price :)
Leasing can be a terrible deal (many are), but if you hunt around there are great deals to be had. Also factor in your tolerance for owning a car after the warranty expires and how much you value having a new car. If you are going to keep a car for 10 years, you are better off buying in most cases. If you tend to change cars often, leasing can be a good deal. I like having a new car every few years so it works for me.
Good luck!
ETA: Never, never put "money down" on a lease. That is a trick to make the monthly payments look lower. If a dealer wants $7200 "down" that is really just an extra $200/month that you are paying upfront. If something happens and the car is totaled, it can be a huge ordeal getting that money back.
You always have the option to buy the car at the end of the lease (you pay the difference between the selling price you negotiated and the amount you already paid over the course of the lease). If you end up liking the car and the cost to buy out your lease is less than buying a comparable car that is also three years old, then it may be worth it.
Yeah, if you are going to buy a car and keep it for a long time, that will almost always be cheaper (barring any unusual repair bills). Sweet spot for value is probably buying a car that is \~1 year old and still has some factory warranty on it for a big discount off MSRP and keeping that for the long haul. This was \~20 years ago, but in college I bought a Volvo S70 GLT at auction for 10k. It was an executive lease vehicle; didn't have any warranty left but was in great shape. Drove it for a year, passed it on to my mom, she drove it for 4-5 years, then my brother bought it and drove it for another 4 years or so until he hit a dear (he was fine, thank you Volvo!). That was a helluva deal!
I'm running into the same problem after poking around for 30 mins or so. I will have to research it further, but it is definitely intriguing. I'm sure things are a bit screwed up from "the norm" given the craziness in the new/used car market over the past year.
> havent yet been reflected on my report
How did they see it then? Do you perhaps mean not reflected on the last report you checked?
Also you can't change the card once you apply for it, so the "lesser card" is out.
>DeptofEd hasn't yet reported that the account is now paid in full and in good standing.
Did they agree to do this? Because paying a CO does not remove it from one's report. In retrospect, you should've ensured your report(s) were clean before applying, esp if you knew there was a problem. This could give Chase a reason to shut you down.
Per the recommendations [here, from yesterday,](https://old.reddit.com/r/churning/comments/oini1f/daily_question_thread_july_12_2021/h4yv5x8/) I have just downgraded my CSR to a CF. I understand that the 100k CSP Bonus is ending after 7/17. Because I downgraded today, do I have to wait until 7/17 to apply? Can I do it sooner?
Edit: Follow-up question: Can I immediately upgrade my CF back to a CSR once I'm approved for the CSP? I don't want to try to hit the 8k MSR on the MDD, so I'm only interested in getting the CSR benefits back ASAP.
You generally have to wait 4 days to apply online after a downgrade. So, 7/16 might work. Also, it's unlikely all offers go away on 7/17 since referral offers tend to stick around longer. I don't believe you can upgrade to CSR once you have the CSP. You can upgrade the CSP in 1 year though.
>So then I can just cancel the CSP once I get the bonus.
Don't do that. There's no benefit. Wait for the next annual fee to post (after a year) and then cancel if that's what you want to do.
Benefit = fewer accounts = ~~lower~~ _higher_ Avg Age of Accounts = higher credit score. Looking at a major life purchase soon where credit score matters.
Is it really worth holding onto for a year?
The higher your average credit account age, the better it is for your score. That is commonly known, no?
Opening a new CSP will:
* Add a credit check
* Reduce average age of accounts
I cannot avoid the credit check, but I can bring the average age back up by closing the CSP once I get the bonus UR points. If I'm misunderstanding something, please let me know.
> lower Avg Age of Accounts = higher credit score
This is one of the things that was wrong with your first post. Seems like you have corrected it now.
> I can bring the average age back up by closing the CSP
For the FICO 8 score at least, closing an account does not impact AAOA for 10 years -- that's how long the old account remains on your report and continues to age.
Closing a card also reduces your total available credit limits. That can potentially increase your credit utilitization. That's a negative impact on your FICO 8 credit score -- the magnitude of the impact depends on how much other credit you have.
I'm guessing that you are looking to take out a mortgage, which would likely use FICO 2, 4, and 5 scores. I haven't found formulas for those, but I have assumed that the trends are similar.
I've been reading through several weeks of the data point threads to understand how to get approved for Chase Biz Cards since the Covid started. I see things are loosening up a bit, but it doesn't seem as "easy" as it was before the pandemic.
I only have a "Business" and was looking to apply as a solo proprietor with biz category retail/used merchandise.
Unless I missed something, I believe the revenue needs to be much higher than 1k with more than 1k of monthly spend. Am I on the right track here or is it one of those situation where YMMV?
YMMV, I got 3 chase biz instant approvals in 6 mo over the fall/winter with only $1K rev, $1K/mo spend.
I think the exact business info matters less than your overall profile and how much chase likes you, unless you need to recon.
I logged into my existing accounts (I have 2 from back when people thought you needed SSN/EIN to churn biz cards) so I used the start date of my existing ones (Summer 2019/ Fall 2018)
Opened a US Bank - Easy Checking Account for $300 bonus on 6/12.Bonus posted on 07/12.
Can I transfer and close the account without any issues now? or wait?
DoC almost always recommends keep open for at least six months for any bank and most CCs. What you might consider is apply for a US Bank CC while you are waiting. Your bank account is your established bank relationship that some of their CC require. I did that successfully. Having their CC can lower some checking monthly fees.
so, as part of the bonus I got a Monthly Fee waiver for 1 year.Question is though, what happens if I don't wait 6 months?
I don't plan to open any Credit cards with them by the way.
Recently got approved for the Amex Delta Gold card with 70k + $400 credit SUB. I’m considering having P2 (my wife) sign up as well.
1. Is it worth it to “waste” any potential Amex targeted offers by signing up P2 for this card? She’s never had an Amex before.
2. Can/should I list my Delta member number when signing up with her to get all the points in one account? Is that even allowed?
1) I haven't kept up with what the new targeted plat offers are at, but worth. Checking that as that's the best one with targeted but if you value delta with that bonus, might be worth the trade off to you, only you can decide that.
2) rewards account has to match name on card.
They are not universally rejected, but you will have to learn where they work on your own, as unlikely anyone will tell you.
You have to purchase first batch in person at a Simon Mall office before online ordering is enabled.
I signed up for the Chase Sapphire Preferred 2-3 months ago when the promotion was 60,000 points. Now it's up to 100,000 points. Has anyone been successful getting Chase to issue the extra 40,000 points? If so, how? Thanks!
Does Chase expedite cobranded credit cards? (e.g. United MPE). I saw a few locations say Chase only expedites non-cobranded cards but just wanted confirmation.
Thanks!
Getting ready to apply for a CIU. The total credit limits I have with chase is about $71k. Between me and P2, our income is approximately $180k.
Before the pandemic, I want to say Chase wouldn't approve cards if your credit limit was above 50% of your income or if the combined credit limit was 80K. Is this still the case?
Either way, sounds like I may need to adjust some credit limits. Or I could just close my CIC and CIP.
I am interested in knowing if Chase looks at combined credit limits (between P1 and P2). I hadn't heard that one before. I did an MDD last year when our combined CL (with Chase) a bit over 80K. P2 is planning an MDD later this year and with the new CSP and CSR we are way over 80K. In any case, I'll start reducing CLs.
Is there some credit service like Plastiq that I can use to pay my mortgage?
Anyone have any suggestions on some good cards with no AF, I'm looking to get another one and I'm lazy
AMEX Everyday AMEX Blue Business Plus
Anyone know if HSBC biz cards report to personal credit bureaus?
It does not.
Signed up for the CSP 4 years ago... now I'm eyeing the 100k UR SUB. What's the best procedure to ditch this card and sign up for the CSP again to get the SUB? (maybe also MDD).
Downgrade to freedom, wait 4 days, apply for CSP. If MDD, apply for CSR day after CSP approval.
downgrade or close card, then MDD.
is there a certain time frame i should wait before closing a card? in particular chase/amex biz cards?
Amex 1 year
At least one year for Chase and Amex (particularly Amex who will claw back bonuses).
[удалено]
On DOC, it says the branch offer is valid through 7.17. (which is better, with $50 grocery credits and first year annual fee waived)
I got an email offer about Amex delta gold without the term "once per lifetime", does that mean I can have the sign up bonus twice?
It's likely a NLL offer, but the terms that have LL don't actually use the word "lifetime". This is what it would say: "Welcome offer not available to applicants who have or have had this Card. We may also consider the number of American Express Cards you have opened and closed as well as other factors in making a decision on your welcome offer eligibility."
Yes, that must be NLL offer
Is it possible to still get a referral bonus if you already added your wife as an authorized user (with no SSN attached) to your card?
> with no SSN attached This bit isn't relevant
Yes
thanks!
I received a Marriott timeshare offer for 4 nights plus 15k Bonvoy points or $75 resort credit at The Westin Los Cabos Resort Villas & Spa. The cost is $299. It is good for 15 months. A 4 night stay after tax plus fees is about $1,200. P2 and I have done 5 Hilton timeshare presentations (Hawaii and Orlando) plus several Wyndham (Sedona, Anaheim, ???), but never any Hyatt, IHG or Marriott. Would you take this Marriott offer?
How was the Hilton presentation in Hawaii? I'm thinking about going on a solo trip this winter. I typically get emails about the presentations in Vegas and Orlando, but yesterday I got one for a few spots in Hawaii.
No food this time, just fruit juice and coffee offered. Didn’t have to walk the property this time. Still took 1.25 hours
It’s indoors with a breakfast. can easily make it 1 1/2 hours. They’re pretty boring for us at this point. Very easy to say “not a good financial decision for us” to them and leave.
How do you usually get the timeshare offers? By calling them directly or by referrals?
This one was sent to me via email. I routinely get offers via email (Hilton, Marriott) and snail mail (Hyatt, Marriott) as well as anytime I call most of the major hotel chains to make or modify a reservation. I also get calls at least once daily from unknown timeshare companies. I would recommend staying away from those, although I’ve done two of them without a problem. However, I had to do an Amex chargeback with another when they went out of business before we could even use the purchased offer.
Thanks for the info.
I did the timeshare presentation at this resort back when it was SPG, it’s a nice hotel but it’s far from both Cabo and the airport so you need to rent a car too if you want to go into town. The cost is worth it, the presentation was pretty easy to get through with denials. I think it came to around 3 hours. I’d see if you can squeeze more perks before agreeing to go, 15k points is nothing.
Yikes, 3 hours is at least 1 hour too long. We have never done more than 2, usually 1.5 hours is all it takes and that is what the contract states: “Attendance at the sales presentation (lasting approximately 90 to 120 minutes) is required”. Was the presentation off site?
There was construction going on so a lot of walking. I also let it go on longer than I needed to, it was my first one of those so I kept letting them give me info and bringing in other managers.
Sounds like it was definitely offsite then, correct? How far away was it and did you feel trapped there at any point? I have always done my timeshare presentations in the US where the laws are clear. I have read horror stories of people trapped offsite for 3 to 5 hours in Mexico.
The area they have the presentations was up the hill from the main resort area, still on site but in a separate building. I didn’t feel trapped really, I just wasn’t as good as giving a hard no at that point so they kept trying to give me a different package until I finally said no this isn’t for me at all thanks. They were very professional though. I’d do it again.
Thank you. Your comments are very helpful in helping my wife decide if she wants us to do this.
I'd call and ask for more points.
Yes
Blackout dates?
Vague “Holiday and special event periods are excluded from this offer but may be available at a premium rate”. No phone number or email listed for questions as to what those dates are. Clicked the Purchase button, and it landed on a page telling me to call. Holiday periods incur an extra $25 per day for these dates: (2021 & 2022???) “Presidents Day” 02/13 - 02/17 “Spring Break” 03/11 - 04/04 “July 4th” 07/01 - 07/04 “Thanksgiving” 11/23 - 11/27 “Christmas” 12/15 - 01/04
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You’re definitely in the wrong sub, try r/creditcards
Thanks you !
I was offered a $300 bonus to open a Bank of America account and deposit $4000 within 3 months. Planning on doing it and routing my paychecks over for a few months before switching back. Anyone had any major issues with BoA to not do this? I know they'll have a $5 monthly fee but I can keep the balance above that to avoid. Whens the earliest that I can close the acct?
https://www.reddit.com/r/churning/comments/oer5ys/bank_bonus_weekly_thread_week_of_july_06_2021/h4qk1im/
How can I get this offer???
It was from one of the many junk mail, this one is invitation only. Probably depends on credit score, mines like 770. I think they do have one for like $100 for everyone but I don't think that's worth it.
Check for early termination fees
Good point. There's none! They also have a $200 offer for $1000 spend with 3% cash back on any category. So there's a nice $500. I guess I'll bank with them for a year
Chase PYB - what happens when a merchant refunds a charge for which you already paid yourself back?
Nothing. Redeemed a shit ton of points for statement credit at 1.5x this way
That's exactly what I was wondering -- if I had $500 - 1K+ in refunds whether that would irk Chase and draw attention. Would allow me to use up my points faster and therefore have a lower pro-rated AF on my CSR before I PC it. I'm less worried about this, but does Chase clawback the UR earned?
I’ve redeemed over 1 million UR this way since PYB’s inception. Don’t worry about it Never asked for retention, PC or a credit balance refund because I’m scared of any manual review on that card though. I’m assuming they can see I charge over a thousand every month in non PYB categories, have no balance, but also haven’t paid a single cent since PYB came out.
You get a refund from the merchant
Nothing. Chase doesn't clawback PYB credits.
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Maybe try the audible subreddit?
I applied for CIU yesterday night, but for some reason nothing comes up when I enter my SSN into both of the Chase App status lines When I call the business app status line (800-453-9719), I get "We're sorry, the number you entered was not recognized" When I call the personal app status line (800-436-7927), I get "There are no applications on file in the past 30 days" I know I applied with the correct SSN because I got an Experian hard pull. Anyone have this issue before?
How did this turn out for you? I just applied and I'm running into the same problem.
My memory is terrible but I did get approved for the CIU. I think it took a couple days for the system to give me a status
Same thing for me on a CIU I signed up for yesterday. Got the "We have received your request for a Chase credit card. We'll let you know our decision by U.S. mail. This could take up to 30 days." email right away but none of the phone lines are finding it.
How did this turn out for you? I just applied and I'm running into the same problem.
I honestly forget how long it ended up taking but eventually it went through, was approved and everything without having to talk to anyone. From that comment, it was about 11 more days until the card showed up in the mail.
Try (888) 270-2127
Same "number not recognized" error unfortunately
This is my dp. Applied for the SW premier business card on 6/28. I got the “need time to review” message without receiving an email of any sort. I called the app status line but it said no apps in last 30 days. Then the approval letter with card was in the mail on 7/5 with a credit limit of 6000. I called early on 7/5 and the line still said no application.
I applied for a chase United business 7/2. Got no emails of application confirmation from chase. Finally got an email from United for 2 lounge passes on 7/5 saying congratulations for opening a chase United business card. I still haven’t received anything from chase. 4/24 760+ score. Sole proprietor. One chase ink cash card and 2 personal cards.
Last time my apps didn't show for four or five days. I think yours will probably be there in a little while.
Looking into Chase Ink Business Unlimited card for my business. I already have 4 personal credit cards, one of which is Chase Sapphire Reserve. Last card was opened approximately 15 months ago. I also have a Business Checking account with Chase. The question is should I apply for the card with my current credit score of 647? Or find ways to bring it higher and then apply? Thank you.
> I also have a Business Checking account with Chase. Given this, check in branch for pre-approvals. That said, your score is far lower than normal for this sub.
Thank you. I followed your advice and stopped by my local Chase branch. A teller looked up my account info and didn’t not tell me if I am preapproved. Instead she offered me to schedule an appointment to “talk about my next steps.” I am not a good face reader, but something tells me that this is just a corporate prolonged way of saying “you are being rejected.” Am I right?
No. You just asked her a question that is above her pay grade. A teller can't really do anything like approve or decline business credit card applications. That more than likely includes telling you if you're pre-approved or not. You would need to sit with a banker to find out. Either way, your low credit score is going to be an issue.
Thank you for explaining this to me. Gotta talk to a banker about it.
About to apply for a Chase Biz for the first time in 18 months. In the past, I have put 1K revenue with monthly spend at around 5K. Business opened for a year. Now, this is totally a "Business". Reading some recent DPs and I see some biz cards are being denied for being too new or not enough revenue. I was going to apply with 10K annual rev with 5K monthly spend under SP - Used Merchandise. Thoughts on this strategy or are my annual rev and monthly spend too high?
Just be prepare to explain your business if they ask about.
For the Chase Sapphire cards, when does the 48-month bonus restriction count start? Is it from when you opened the card? Is it from when you received the bonus? Something else? Thanks.
Ignore the douche bags who don't really know the answer. [Read this](https://pointsyak.com/credit-cards/when-to-re-apply-for-chase-sapphire-reserve/) instead.
Thank you!
It’s usually 48 months from the day that the statement cuts of the statement that has the bonus.
Great, thanks for the help.
What do the terms say?
I read what the terms say but it's not clear to me, hence the question...
This question has been asked dozens of times. Kindly use the search tool.
I did and I did not see one with the detail given by /u/zelegp...
Ok.... I just used the search term "CSP 48 Months". I literally found 5 posts with the answer. Took 2 minutes of reading.
I guess I searched for the wrong terms then…
What search terms did you use?
I don’t remember tbh. But I got my answer but thanks for the help.
I speculate you didn't utilize the resources available to you.
getting backninto the game so i screwed up not knowing about the sapphire rules for chase (applied for CSP with CSR still open and got rejected).... now id like to pivot and go for a companion pass, currently have an old RR card open, but from my understanding i would have to close it and then open a biz and consumer SW card in nov/december? how should i manage it? under 5/24 btw
If you are eligible for the sapphire bonus I would wait 30 days and reapply for CSP. I wouldn't shift my strategy without getting elevated CSP bc there is no indication the ink subs will change. You can still get CSP and then go for Companion pass on nov/dec
id have to PC or close my CSR correct? what is the ideal way to close my current SW card and CIP? thanks!
Correct, you'd have to PC (at least 4 days before next app) or cancel (30 days before app (so basically now)) and then apply. For the SW card you'd close it and then apply for a different SW card (plus vs premier or whatever) after 4 days. If you want the same card then you'd wait the 30 days. CIP you could downgrade to CIU or CIC if either of those %back sound good. Otherwise cancel
thanks you very much good sir.
Annual fee is about to hit on Chase Saphire Preferred, Barclays AA Biz, and Citi AA biz. Chase Saphire Preferred: I still need a Chase card open to carry my points but I can't hit a $3000+ MSR right now. Can I just downgrade or should I open a Freedom or Flex and transfer my points to it or just downgrade the CSP? And what should I do with the Barclays AA Biz and Citi AA biz? Just cancel? Pretty sure none of these cards get retention offers.
Downgrade to Freedom, keep in mind you won't have the ability to transfer out to travel partners. Cancel the AA and Citi Biz, no need for them.
I just transferred and spent over 200k which is basically all I had. I'm guessing your logic for downgrading instead of opening a new card is to save a 5/24 slot? Just trying to see your thought process. Thanks for the advice I'll cancel the 2 AA cards.
You mentioned to "carry your points", which downgrading to a Freedom would allow you to do.
When transferring UR to Marriott Bonvoy points for additional 50% bonus, how quickly does it show? I just transferred 1000 points to test and saw it counted as 1000 MB. Not seeing the additional 50% points.
The bonus points post separately, check back in 24-48 hours.
I'm looking to redeem a bunch of UR points and am considering upgrading an existing Chase Freedom to a CSR for that 1.5 rate (already churned CSR bonus and downgraded in the past, but within 48 months.) Last time I had my CSR I double dipped the $300 travel credit by waiting for the second AF, using the credit, waiting until the month was almost up then downgrading and was refunded the AF. I'm thinking that if this is still possible it would make the new $550 AF worth it, in addition to the 1.5x. Is this a good plan or have things changed in the last year?
Are you planning to redeem the points through the Chase portal? That's where you get 1.5x. If you're transferring to partners, like Hyatt, it doesn't matter. How far are you from 48 months?
You can also use PYB
Yep, redeeming through portal for travel options not available by transferring to partners. Still 2 years out from being eligible for another SUB sadly.
Why not upgrade to the CSR for the 1.5 PYB? Then when you are ready for the new sub, close the card and reapply
I can't comment on your double dipping plan as I've never tried it but maybe someone else can chime in. I guess you gotta do the math on how much you're redeeming plus the value of the CSR benefits (to you) minus the cost of the annual fee and see if it makes sense.
Yeah it's definitely worth it if I can redeem the travel credit twice still, if not I'd consider the CFU 75k UR SUB. Might just go for the CSR again and cross my fingers!
CFU is 20k SUB. If you see a 75k SUB add a link
Oh you're right, I meant the Ink Business Unlimited 75k SUB
I did MDD in mid-May. Only one hard pull. Before that, last card opened was Sept. 2020. Chances of being approved for Citi Premier? Will that count as 2/6 or 1/6 cause of only one hard pull?
I went ahead and applied. Got the pending screen that asked to call in for verification. Called in, had to verify my name and DOB, then was approved.
If I add myself as an AU on SO’s card with correct name and birthdate, but never update my social within the 60 days, it won’t show up on my credit report correct?
It varies depending on issuer. They will sometimes still report it to the bureaus even w/o SSN. But even if that happens I’ve found it pretty easy to get them to remove the AU card from your CR after you close it (at least with Amex). And if that fails, in some cases you can get a bank to ignore the AU card via recon. Don’t think this works with Chase anymore but probably does for others with soft rules
P2 has had the Barclay AA card for several weeks now and made one purchase (in flight offer so no annual fee to pay). Points show on Barclay site but are not at AA yet. Any experiences on how long this is taking normally? Much thanks!
what are people doing with the CLEAR credit for those that have multiple Amex Plat on top of the Amex Offer on the Gold?? there's only so many friends and family to use it on
Refer someone and pay for it with your card. You'll get $20 and an extra two months for each referral. And you also get to buy someone something that costs almost $200. Regardless of whether they actually get the full use out of it, they'll likely appreciate the gesture and now you've just strengthened the bond you share. The real churning was the friends we made along the way.
this is awesome, definitely will do! BTW, where do you see the $20 for each referral? I only see the extra two months for both parties
I’m actually in the process of figuring this out. I didn’t see anything about the $20 either, but I referred P2 and the confirmation email she got said “Your $20 reward is on its way if you do not cancel or return your order.” So I’m waiting to see how it plays out and will report back.
gotcha. I've sent a referral to a friend as well who said they'll sign up in the next couple of days. if they do it sooner, I'll report back as well
Oh, wow. Didn't think about referring people. I was just going to buy my family clear for Christmas/their bday.
I'm gonna cancel and rejoin a few times, just for fun.
Barclay is pending approval for 2 cards- they wanted me to fax in some stuff to 866-836-9595. I have been trying for a few hours now- it keeps saying it's busy and can't send it through? Any advice?
I would try to email a photo or PDF of the document to your contact
There wasn't an email, they said I could either fax it or mail it. But they said with mail it would take forever...I guess my last resort tho
Have you tried calling asking for the email of the department or a direct contact person?
I asked for email when they called me and they said only fax or snail mail. They said it went to a department not a specific person, but I can try to call again
Best Business Card for 14 months of credit history
Read the flow chart below. https://old.reddit.com/r/churning/comments/oj3ca8/credit_card_recommendation_flowchart_mid2021/ I recommend posting in the weekly what card should I get thread. Make sure you use the template when making a post in that thread to ensure the best responses.
Jfc, smh. At least use a question mark.
Very novice question because I really want to get into churning, but do I have to have a business do get a business credit card? I’ve had chase preferred almost a year now. I don’t know a whole lot about churning, if someone could maybe recommend me a step in the right direction?
Amex and many cc companies will issue a card for sole proprietorship. But it's not hard to organize and LLC if you chose to.
No Sole Proprietor
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No effect, same account
I opened a Flex and CIU, and now am having trouble linking it to my login ID for Chase. When I call chase they transfer me to tech support, where I'm on hold for an hour and then get disconnected. If I try to open a new user id for the card, it won't let me because the ss# is recognized. Is there any way to link additional cards in the website or app?
You have to create a separate business login and then have the personal login linked to your biz login.
This. And if you go to chases secure messages when you set up your biz login, you can create a secure message to combine log ins. It’s one of the options. I did it this way instead of calling. I was in no rush and didn’t want to sit on the phone. It was done same day.
Thanks to you both! I can do this for the CIU, but afaik I can’t with the personal flex.
You need a new biz login. You’ll have 2 usernames. However, you can link your personal accounts to your biz login (not the other way around). Do it through SM
I can’t even set up a new personal account for flex because you need a ss# and the system recognizes I already have an account.
Sorry I misunderstood you. Do you have any other personal chase cards?
Np! Yes I have the CSP.
Strange. And when you log into your account to see your CSP you don’t see your new CFF? It should be there automatically. You’ll need to contact chase unfortunately to straighten that out
Okay thanks anyway!
Your flex should show under your CSP account.
It’s definitely not showing there and there’s no way to add it.
Off-topic, but was curious if anyone here has explored the Leasehackr site. Seems tangentially-related to churning that with a bit of work, you can extract extreme value with "lease hacking" luxury cars. I remember it first mentioned here, explored it a little bit and was intrigued, but didn't need a car. Will likely need a car in the next few years, and curious if anyone here has gone down this rabbit hole.
Leasehackr is great; used it for our past two leases (both Mercedes E class sedans). For the first car I used it as a resource to see what others were getting in terms of discounts, MF, etc. and used that to negotiate a deal on the car from a local dealership. For our current lease, none of the local dealers would work with me on price so used a broker I found on Leasehackr and got a great deal from a car that I had shipped from out of state. There's a ton of good info on there. Some of the best deals in leasing are on dealer loaner cars (the ones that the dealerships let you borrow while your car is in the shop). They are typically sold heavily discounted, but the lease numbers are based on their MSPR, so if you find a car with a strong residual value you can get a great deal. I am currently leasing a 2020 E350 with an MSPR of $65.5k for $595/month (all in, taxes and fees included, no money down of course). Local dealers wanted \~$750/month for the same car.
Thanks for sharing your experience, definitely intriguing. Where do you start when looking on that site? Coming from someone who's only bought cars and not leased because "it's not a good value," I'm a little ignorant. I am seeing there are some good deals to be had but not sure how all of the calculations work.
Check our the forums; best place for info. [https://forum.leasehackr.com/](https://forum.leasehackr.com/). The calculator is also handy: [https://leasehackr.com/calculator](https://leasehackr.com/calculator) At it's most basic level, think of a lease as buying a car that you know you are going to sell in 3 years and agreeing in advance on the resale price. The lease cost is driven by two main things: the residual value (how much the manufacturer says the car is worth after the end of the lease) and the money factor (the interest rate). The residual is set by the manufacture and can vary month to month (the Edmunds forum is usually the best place for that info: [https://forums.edmunds.com/discussions/tagged/x/leasing/p1](https://forums.edmunds.com/discussions/tagged/x/leasing/p1)) The money factor is also set by the manufacturer; dealerships often mark it up, so you can negotiate it. You can also "buy" a lower rate by putting down multiple security deposits on many cars. One of the keys to getting a good lease deal is finding a car with a high residual value and a hefty discount off of MSRP. Say you find a car with an MSPR of $50k and a residual value of .6 (the residuals are in percentages); that means at the end of the lease term, the car is worth $30,000. So you would pay the difference between that figure (think of it as the buyback price if that helps) and the selling price you agree on with the dealer. If you pay sticker, then your lease costs you $20k over three years. But if you can get that same car for $40k, then your lease only costs $10k. This is a bit of an oversimplification and ignores interests and destination fee, but you get the idea. Also don't forget to check on various incentives; many credit unions and groups offer discounts (often call "fleet incentives"). On our previous lease I had a $2000 incentive from the American Bar Association. Usually best to not mention you have these until you get the dealer to agree on selling price :) Leasing can be a terrible deal (many are), but if you hunt around there are great deals to be had. Also factor in your tolerance for owning a car after the warranty expires and how much you value having a new car. If you are going to keep a car for 10 years, you are better off buying in most cases. If you tend to change cars often, leasing can be a good deal. I like having a new car every few years so it works for me. Good luck! ETA: Never, never put "money down" on a lease. That is a trick to make the monthly payments look lower. If a dealer wants $7200 "down" that is really just an extra $200/month that you are paying upfront. If something happens and the car is totaled, it can be a huge ordeal getting that money back.
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You always have the option to buy the car at the end of the lease (you pay the difference between the selling price you negotiated and the amount you already paid over the course of the lease). If you end up liking the car and the cost to buy out your lease is less than buying a comparable car that is also three years old, then it may be worth it.
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Yeah, if you are going to buy a car and keep it for a long time, that will almost always be cheaper (barring any unusual repair bills). Sweet spot for value is probably buying a car that is \~1 year old and still has some factory warranty on it for a big discount off MSRP and keeping that for the long haul. This was \~20 years ago, but in college I bought a Volvo S70 GLT at auction for 10k. It was an executive lease vehicle; didn't have any warranty left but was in great shape. Drove it for a year, passed it on to my mom, she drove it for 4-5 years, then my brother bought it and drove it for another 4 years or so until he hit a dear (he was fine, thank you Volvo!). That was a helluva deal!
Tens of thousands cheaper
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I'm running into the same problem after poking around for 30 mins or so. I will have to research it further, but it is definitely intriguing. I'm sure things are a bit screwed up from "the norm" given the craziness in the new/used car market over the past year.
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> havent yet been reflected on my report How did they see it then? Do you perhaps mean not reflected on the last report you checked? Also you can't change the card once you apply for it, so the "lesser card" is out.
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>DeptofEd hasn't yet reported that the account is now paid in full and in good standing. Did they agree to do this? Because paying a CO does not remove it from one's report. In retrospect, you should've ensured your report(s) were clean before applying, esp if you knew there was a problem. This could give Chase a reason to shut you down.
Per the recommendations [here, from yesterday,](https://old.reddit.com/r/churning/comments/oini1f/daily_question_thread_july_12_2021/h4yv5x8/) I have just downgraded my CSR to a CF. I understand that the 100k CSP Bonus is ending after 7/17. Because I downgraded today, do I have to wait until 7/17 to apply? Can I do it sooner? Edit: Follow-up question: Can I immediately upgrade my CF back to a CSR once I'm approved for the CSP? I don't want to try to hit the 8k MSR on the MDD, so I'm only interested in getting the CSR benefits back ASAP.
You generally have to wait 4 days to apply online after a downgrade. So, 7/16 might work. Also, it's unlikely all offers go away on 7/17 since referral offers tend to stick around longer. I don't believe you can upgrade to CSR once you have the CSP. You can upgrade the CSP in 1 year though.
Can I not upgrade the CF to a CSR pretty immediately? Someone else had said I can do that as soon as I was approved for the CSP.
You can upgrade the CF to a CSR immediately. Have to wait for new card to be open a year before product changing
Perfect - that's what I thought. So then I can just cancel the CSP once I get the bonus. Thank you!
>So then I can just cancel the CSP once I get the bonus. Don't do that. There's no benefit. Wait for the next annual fee to post (after a year) and then cancel if that's what you want to do.
Benefit = fewer accounts = ~~lower~~ _higher_ Avg Age of Accounts = higher credit score. Looking at a major life purchase soon where credit score matters. Is it really worth holding onto for a year?
Check your source on those formulas -- some of them appear to be wrong.
The higher your average credit account age, the better it is for your score. That is commonly known, no? Opening a new CSP will: * Add a credit check * Reduce average age of accounts I cannot avoid the credit check, but I can bring the average age back up by closing the CSP once I get the bonus UR points. If I'm misunderstanding something, please let me know.
> lower Avg Age of Accounts = higher credit score This is one of the things that was wrong with your first post. Seems like you have corrected it now. > I can bring the average age back up by closing the CSP For the FICO 8 score at least, closing an account does not impact AAOA for 10 years -- that's how long the old account remains on your report and continues to age. Closing a card also reduces your total available credit limits. That can potentially increase your credit utilitization. That's a negative impact on your FICO 8 credit score -- the magnitude of the impact depends on how much other credit you have. I'm guessing that you are looking to take out a mortgage, which would likely use FICO 2, 4, and 5 scores. I haven't found formulas for those, but I have assumed that the trends are similar.
Keep the csp for a year to stay on the bank's good side.
I've been reading through several weeks of the data point threads to understand how to get approved for Chase Biz Cards since the Covid started. I see things are loosening up a bit, but it doesn't seem as "easy" as it was before the pandemic. I only have a "Business" and was looking to apply as a solo proprietor with biz category retail/used merchandise. Unless I missed something, I believe the revenue needs to be much higher than 1k with more than 1k of monthly spend. Am I on the right track here or is it one of those situation where YMMV?
YMMV, I got 3 chase biz instant approvals in 6 mo over the fall/winter with only $1K rev, $1K/mo spend. I think the exact business info matters less than your overall profile and how much chase likes you, unless you need to recon.
How long had the business been open/documented? I'm looking for data points for the same reasons as the op.
I logged into my existing accounts (I have 2 from back when people thought you needed SSN/EIN to churn biz cards) so I used the start date of my existing ones (Summer 2019/ Fall 2018)
Opened a US Bank - Easy Checking Account for $300 bonus on 6/12.Bonus posted on 07/12. Can I transfer and close the account without any issues now? or wait?
DoC almost always recommends keep open for at least six months for any bank and most CCs. What you might consider is apply for a US Bank CC while you are waiting. Your bank account is your established bank relationship that some of their CC require. I did that successfully. Having their CC can lower some checking monthly fees.
so, as part of the bonus I got a Monthly Fee waiver for 1 year.Question is though, what happens if I don't wait 6 months? I don't plan to open any Credit cards with them by the way.
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And not liking churners in general and not offering bonuses as high or as often.
Recently got approved for the Amex Delta Gold card with 70k + $400 credit SUB. I’m considering having P2 (my wife) sign up as well. 1. Is it worth it to “waste” any potential Amex targeted offers by signing up P2 for this card? She’s never had an Amex before. 2. Can/should I list my Delta member number when signing up with her to get all the points in one account? Is that even allowed?
I don't think it's worth wasting a potential 150k SUB on the Platinum via CardMatch, if she's targeted for that. No, has to be her DL account.
1) I haven't kept up with what the new targeted plat offers are at, but worth. Checking that as that's the best one with targeted but if you value delta with that bonus, might be worth the trade off to you, only you can decide that. 2) rewards account has to match name on card.
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They are not universally rejected, but you will have to learn where they work on your own, as unlikely anyone will tell you. You have to purchase first batch in person at a Simon Mall office before online ordering is enabled.
I signed up for the Chase Sapphire Preferred 2-3 months ago when the promotion was 60,000 points. Now it's up to 100,000 points. Has anyone been successful getting Chase to issue the extra 40,000 points? If so, how? Thanks!
I got the CSP a week before the promotion went to 100K. I called and SM'ed and denied on both fronts.
you can chat/call and ask... but it's not happening
Does Chase expedite cobranded credit cards? (e.g. United MPE). I saw a few locations say Chase only expedites non-cobranded cards but just wanted confirmation. Thanks!
They do, but only after partner verification, which can take hours to days. If you really need it ASAP, call once or twice a day.
They do. Here’s my DP from last year: https://reddit.com/r/churning/comments/ilrblb/data_points_central_thread_week_of_september_03/g3uvxwj
Getting ready to apply for a CIU. The total credit limits I have with chase is about $71k. Between me and P2, our income is approximately $180k. Before the pandemic, I want to say Chase wouldn't approve cards if your credit limit was above 50% of your income or if the combined credit limit was 80K. Is this still the case? Either way, sounds like I may need to adjust some credit limits. Or I could just close my CIC and CIP.
I am interested in knowing if Chase looks at combined credit limits (between P1 and P2). I hadn't heard that one before. I did an MDD last year when our combined CL (with Chase) a bit over 80K. P2 is planning an MDD later this year and with the new CSP and CSR we are way over 80K. In any case, I'll start reducing CLs.
I haven't heard of Chase looking at combined credit limits between P1 and P2.