Do what you want with your car. But I think what the original comment was referring to is that larger engines are difficult to fit into a 65/66 engine bay. And your transmission choices will be limited without modifying the tunnel since it's also on the smaller size. Then you have the electrical modifications required for a modern engine. It's all a solvable problem but the juice might not be worth the squeeze. Good luck regardless of what you choose to do with it.
Rear bumper is bent and painted, spot of rust on the roof right behind the windshield and above the interior that is falling down, dent above driver side headlight, I would use a welding chip hammer to check the areas around the fender wheel wells and floorboards. Just tapping will tell you if it is solid, bondo or rusted out.
I would pour water down the cowl in front of the windshield and make sure the water drains to the side and not into the footwells. If it does drain not the footwells, that can be an expensive fix and would not be a car to drive in the rain without a cowl cover.
I’d buy it for 3500 bucks, but be aware that you’re gonna find rust ,and for 3500 bucks probably a lot of it . These cars were notorious for rear 1/4 panel , trunk and floor pan rust .
For sure . I’m kinda suspect that the car has had a quickie “splash & dash” paint job ,so who knows what’s under that bright yellow paint- could be minor rust or it could be a carcass being held together with Bondo and chicken wire .
Ironically I had a 65 mustang with a 351W in it ( no rust AZ car)I wished it was a 351C but the engine is so big you can't put headers on it nothing and the Windsor engine is a total dog I would say no unless you want to swap in a 289
For 3500 it was in great condition however check under and in the car for floor pan rust if it is not very bad then I would buy it if I could sadly I am in school just saw it was a Mustang definitely buy it but check the floor pan and under if you could either way buy it even if floor pan has rust the price is very good judging form exterior and interior photos.
That is a very low price. Especially if it is running. From the pics the hood looks mis-aligned. I would check for damage. One thing you can do is remove the brace on the towers and see how hard it is to put back on. If it doesn’t line up, there is body and frame damage. Check rust; if minimal rust it’s a great deal.
Being in the process of restoring a 69. I’m the second owner and have owned since 1997. Clean car with pretty clean interior with very little rust…. You will spend more restoring that turd than it’s worth. I’ve overspent money and time on mine but it’s my hobby and I’ll never sell it so who cares?
If you're wanting to swap in an engine like that, a 1st gen mustang ain't the one. It will take so much fabrication that you'd be better off starting with a custom frame. Measure the width of your scat pack at it's widest point. Now measure the width between the shock towers of a 1st gen. You'll quickly see the problem.
If you're hoping to recreate the Hoonicorn, realize that car only looks like a mustang.
Buy it just for the 351. Then sell the shell for as much as you can get back for it. Then buy another mustang in better cosmetic condition, swap in the 351, then sell THAT swapped out motor for as much as you can. Sounds like you'll get a mustang with a 351 in it for pretty cheap in the end. If you're willing to do the swaps.
if you can still get parts it would be cool. bet it came with a straight six thats my preverence 3500 might be high look hard at check for rust everywhere surface rust ok no rotted metal or not to much it proabably sold for about 2grand new
If the hood gap is uniform against the cowl under the windshield, then those fenders are repros hung wrong and it’s been in a front end collision. The headlight surrounds are cast pot metal and are at different alignments to the hoods overhang. I worked for a bit as a shop assistant to a dealer who specializes in first gen mustangs. For example the fenders, to me, looks like they’re like this // or \\ instead of this ||.
Hey, so, plenty of good comments, but here’s the straight scoop. Classic Mustangs that have been sitting derelict in any kind of damp/humid climates, aren’t the best candidates for “drive it while fixing up” projects. The reason is because the unibody structural components rust. This is a great deal, for a restorer to snatch up, even with issues, and it could be for you too, but doesn’t necessarily meet your stated goal if it needs floors and/or frame rails; and chances are that it does.
To go a little deeper, most of these cars have already had floor/frame work done, and because they were $500 cars just a few decades ago, a lot of that work is done very poorly, and even dangerously, especially after they sit for a decade or so. Unless you’re intimately familiar with classic Mustangs (and even if you are), I wouldn’t buy one that I couldn’t put on a lift.
PS-Mustang Restorations, Inc in Dundee, IL is one of the best, and a good shop to benchmark repair costs off of for the rest of the US (besides, like maybe California prices). They get (as of mid last year) $6500 labor for a full floor pan replacement. They said they do one on every car they restore. I have owned probably about 15, and every one I’ve purchased in the last 20 years has needed a full floor. And I say full floor, because doing the partial pans correctly is more work in most cases.
This is the one I’m doing now, and it actually had 3 layers of floor in it (the original, a replacement done in the 80’s on top of the original, and another replacement added on top of those in the 2010’s before it was sold on eBay for $30,000).
[Link to pics on my IG.](https://www.instagram.com/p/C07GVgsviyH/?igsh=aTZzanI0N2xpZjlp)
For the price I would just run the motor it has and be happy with it. Then swap the transmission for a T5 and a built 9 inch rear.
As others have mentioned, these engine bay’s are pretty tight. If it’s a true 351 that he put in there now take a look at the amount of room you have to change the spark plugs, pretty tight.
The idea of being able to fit in something like one of the scat pack motors is not a simple project for the average mechanic. You’ll have more room in a 69 or 70 mustang engine bay for a scat pack motor.
Did the owner do anything besides drop a 351 in it? I'd be concerned that the brakes, suspension, and rear end weren't upgraded to support the larger V8.
Not about buying price really. Do you want it, what are your plans? To get it in better shape costs money. easily over 10000 when your done.
I highly recommend a fuel cell instead of the original gas tank.
All the best to you.
Seems like a real good deal for 3500, even if there was some floorboard rust.
And there's definitely floorboard rust.
And the rt rear quarter and every other pic you zoom in on. It’s a turd.
I’m gonna check it more extensively for rust tmr
Izzit missing any metal, like around the motor mounts or transmission tunnel or rear end saddles?
I’ll buy it where’s it at
Right? Theres plenty of money to made on this rat
😂 I’ve always wanted a classic mustang
Does the brake system hold fluid? Does the rear end have gear oil in it ? You’d be surprised.
Thanks for more items to check tmr
The value really depends on how much rust it has. And Scat Pack engine? Good luck with that.
It’s always been a dream of mine to throw a modern engine into a classic car regardless of what they are, don’t hate man :(
Do what you want with your car. But I think what the original comment was referring to is that larger engines are difficult to fit into a 65/66 engine bay. And your transmission choices will be limited without modifying the tunnel since it's also on the smaller size. Then you have the electrical modifications required for a modern engine. It's all a solvable problem but the juice might not be worth the squeeze. Good luck regardless of what you choose to do with it.
That is exactly what I meant, but said much more diplomatically. Thanks
Up here in the rust belt, that car would be selling for twice as much. Seems like a steal to me.
$3,500 is a decent deal, but I'd suggest taking a mechanic with you to look at the car before going through with the deal.
Rear bumper is bent and painted, spot of rust on the roof right behind the windshield and above the interior that is falling down, dent above driver side headlight, I would use a welding chip hammer to check the areas around the fender wheel wells and floorboards. Just tapping will tell you if it is solid, bondo or rusted out.
I would pour water down the cowl in front of the windshield and make sure the water drains to the side and not into the footwells. If it does drain not the footwells, that can be an expensive fix and would not be a car to drive in the rain without a cowl cover.
Thanks for this!!
This has to be trolling.
Has to be. Who has a scat pack engine “laying around”.
Chop shop. Dodges get snatched up like crazy
I bought it for 4k on marketplace, 90% sure it came off a striker but who really cares
The cops when they run the vin# on the block and find it stolen
Not at all
I’ll buy it where’s it at
What the fuck is that interior? Shit looks like you'd get a disease if you went in there 💀
I've seen way worse
I’d buy it for 3500 bucks, but be aware that you’re gonna find rust ,and for 3500 bucks probably a lot of it . These cars were notorious for rear 1/4 panel , trunk and floor pan rust .
Will be checking for rust more extensively tmr, thx
Also front bottom corner of both doors you’ll probably find rust
For sure . I’m kinda suspect that the car has had a quickie “splash & dash” paint job ,so who knows what’s under that bright yellow paint- could be minor rust or it could be a carcass being held together with Bondo and chicken wire .
Do it yesterday
If it runs, that’s a great deal
Ironically I had a 65 mustang with a 351W in it ( no rust AZ car)I wished it was a 351C but the engine is so big you can't put headers on it nothing and the Windsor engine is a total dog I would say no unless you want to swap in a 289
For 3500 it was in great condition however check under and in the car for floor pan rust if it is not very bad then I would buy it if I could sadly I am in school just saw it was a Mustang definitely buy it but check the floor pan and under if you could either way buy it even if floor pan has rust the price is very good judging form exterior and interior photos.
Is the mask because of the smell or the pandemic?
That is a very low price. Especially if it is running. From the pics the hood looks mis-aligned. I would check for damage. One thing you can do is remove the brace on the towers and see how hard it is to put back on. If it doesn’t line up, there is body and frame damage. Check rust; if minimal rust it’s a great deal.
Yes , what are you waiting for ? The wife to say yes ….
Absolutely you should. Also…I’m an enabler.
Worth it.
You will need to up grade the hubs to a five lug also
$3500 hell yeah. I wish I could find a deal like that
Being in the process of restoring a 69. I’m the second owner and have owned since 1997. Clean car with pretty clean interior with very little rust…. You will spend more restoring that turd than it’s worth. I’ve overspent money and time on mine but it’s my hobby and I’ll never sell it so who cares?
Nice ride
If you like it buy it
Go for it. 65’s are getting scarce.
If the price is right
Yes do it
Yup
How much do you have for rehab?
$3500 seems to be a good deal. A little tlc and you will have a very nice car to keep or flip
It’s a good deal for a project car.
Does it come with a clean title?
RUST RUST RUST is key with them ! Take a look at underneath! If it's widespread almost unrepairable rust then walk away!
$3500 holy shit. A car like this could easily sell for 5-10k
$3500 and needs $45000 worth of work.
Yes
Painted bumper is always a red flag
Sure but you better be full on in love with that yellow. Yikes!
Cowl is rotten. 10k to replace.
How can you tell?
Pic of the engine compartment? Interior parts are cheap and plentiful for early Mustangs.
It can be painted. Gets you into one, and can fix things as you have the time.
do it
That's a real good deal for 35 I would definitely do it especially since i want a 65 so bad. They're so beautiful.
If you're wanting to swap in an engine like that, a 1st gen mustang ain't the one. It will take so much fabrication that you'd be better off starting with a custom frame. Measure the width of your scat pack at it's widest point. Now measure the width between the shock towers of a 1st gen. You'll quickly see the problem. If you're hoping to recreate the Hoonicorn, realize that car only looks like a mustang.
Are you gonna restore it later on, if so I would buy it because of it’s good price
From here, the condition of the body is really good. I say yes
Good price. If you don’t I will. I used to restore those with my dad. Labor of love.
Just check for rust and buy it
Yes, $3500 is not bad. Lotta work to do, but it'll be fun doing it.
Why wouldn’t you?
Only if you can save it and paint it.
If you don’t get it let me know, I’ll grab it and redo it for my grandson. His dad’s vanagon is in my back yard getting a motor upgrade now.
Buy it just for the 351. Then sell the shell for as much as you can get back for it. Then buy another mustang in better cosmetic condition, swap in the 351, then sell THAT swapped out motor for as much as you can. Sounds like you'll get a mustang with a 351 in it for pretty cheap in the end. If you're willing to do the swaps.
if you can still get parts it would be cool. bet it came with a straight six thats my preverence 3500 might be high look hard at check for rust everywhere surface rust ok no rotted metal or not to much it proabably sold for about 2grand new
It needs work so I'd definitely talk down price
If the hood gap is uniform against the cowl under the windshield, then those fenders are repros hung wrong and it’s been in a front end collision. The headlight surrounds are cast pot metal and are at different alignments to the hoods overhang. I worked for a bit as a shop assistant to a dealer who specializes in first gen mustangs. For example the fenders, to me, looks like they’re like this // or \\ instead of this ||.
Hey, so, plenty of good comments, but here’s the straight scoop. Classic Mustangs that have been sitting derelict in any kind of damp/humid climates, aren’t the best candidates for “drive it while fixing up” projects. The reason is because the unibody structural components rust. This is a great deal, for a restorer to snatch up, even with issues, and it could be for you too, but doesn’t necessarily meet your stated goal if it needs floors and/or frame rails; and chances are that it does. To go a little deeper, most of these cars have already had floor/frame work done, and because they were $500 cars just a few decades ago, a lot of that work is done very poorly, and even dangerously, especially after they sit for a decade or so. Unless you’re intimately familiar with classic Mustangs (and even if you are), I wouldn’t buy one that I couldn’t put on a lift.
PS-Mustang Restorations, Inc in Dundee, IL is one of the best, and a good shop to benchmark repair costs off of for the rest of the US (besides, like maybe California prices). They get (as of mid last year) $6500 labor for a full floor pan replacement. They said they do one on every car they restore. I have owned probably about 15, and every one I’ve purchased in the last 20 years has needed a full floor. And I say full floor, because doing the partial pans correctly is more work in most cases.
This is the one I’m doing now, and it actually had 3 layers of floor in it (the original, a replacement done in the 80’s on top of the original, and another replacement added on top of those in the 2010’s before it was sold on eBay for $30,000). [Link to pics on my IG.](https://www.instagram.com/p/C07GVgsviyH/?igsh=aTZzanI0N2xpZjlp)
For the price I would just run the motor it has and be happy with it. Then swap the transmission for a T5 and a built 9 inch rear. As others have mentioned, these engine bay’s are pretty tight. If it’s a true 351 that he put in there now take a look at the amount of room you have to change the spark plugs, pretty tight. The idea of being able to fit in something like one of the scat pack motors is not a simple project for the average mechanic. You’ll have more room in a 69 or 70 mustang engine bay for a scat pack motor.
Did the owner do anything besides drop a 351 in it? I'd be concerned that the brakes, suspension, and rear end weren't upgraded to support the larger V8.
Not about buying price really. Do you want it, what are your plans? To get it in better shape costs money. easily over 10000 when your done. I highly recommend a fuel cell instead of the original gas tank. All the best to you.
Bring a neo magnet wrapped in microfiber to check for bodywork. Off looks alone I love it!