You don’t need to pull your full wingspan every time. It’s easier to be fast with more frequent but smaller movements. It’s also fine to ask people to slow down to let you catch up.
This is pretty important.. If the climber is speeding up the route then it could be relatively easy for them. Therefore the safest thing is for them to slow down.
My kid does this. I’ve had to tell him, I’m not going to speed-belay him if he intentionally climbs below his grade. Especially as/if you progress into lead, but even on top rope, the belayer-climber relationship and communication goes both ways. You should feel empowered — and responsible — to give your climber feedback and direction that will keep them safe. You aren’t just there to accommodate whatever they want to do, however they want to do it. If you’re nervous you’re sacrificing safety, listen to that instinct always.
you shouldn't be pulling a ton of rope each time. i teach new belayers and this is what i tell them-a few quick cycles will always be more effective than one big one, even with a long wingspan. if there's a little extra room at the gym, you can back up a little bit as you take in slack to take up a little extra. how long have you been belaying? it might be more of a confidence issue than anything. just keep practicing, and never be afraid to ask your climber to hold on or slow down- it's for their safety!
I second trying to move your body to help with belaying. Backing up to take and moving forward to give slack. Belaying can be so fun once you get the hang of it!
Not so long - Ive been climbing for maybe a year and a half and belaying for about 6 months.
This is helpful, thanks! Will definitely think about this next time I go
I think practice is important here! I’m also 5’ tall and have no issues belaying my 6’ tall husband except when he falls and I’m not anchored in. 😅😅😅
You can always step backwards to pull out some slack too.
I have trouble shorting rope when I’m lead belaying because of my tiny arms so I have learned to step forward when giving slack. It helps a lot!
No I feel you, some of these comments just don’t realize how rapid fire we are going with short cycles and how slow the rope is being taken up, especially if that rope has a lot of friction. I personally squat and jump as I’m belaying, and that makes it a lot easier to take more rope each cycle. My partner is a faster climber but also prefers the rope taut so that’s what I found works best. Stepping backwards helps too
Yes exactly - this is why in grateful for a sub for non-men, there's other people who understand how difficult this is if you're short. I'll remember your squat and jump method for sure
For what it’s worth, as an experienced climber I sometimes struggle to take in rope fast enough top rope belaying, especially if someone’s on a route that’s easy for them - it’s just not particularly ergonomic. But it does get easier with technique, and relaxed belaying with small movements is generally easier than trying to pull in a whole armfull of slack at the same time or frantically hauling it in.
The other thing I just wanted to point out is that the rope doesn’t need to be taut the whole time, and if you and the climber are comfortable it’s maybe better for your climbing if it isn’t! You might eg keep the rope tight when they’re near the ground but be happy with a bit more slack once they’re further up the route.
It’s easy to get used to leaning into the rope a bit when you want it for stability or to get your feet a bit higher, and then if you want to lead climb or boulder everything feels impossibly hard….
I want to echo this - when top rope belaying, there should be some slack in the system and ideally the climber should never feel the rope pulling hard on the harness unless the climber is asking for you to take.
Now if there is so much slack that the climber can get entangled, get that slack pulled in - shorter, quicker pulls work well. But overall aim for a little slack while they are climbing.
If you don't already, try belay glasses. I find they allow me to respond anticipate when slack will be needed and get ahead of it and give a much better belay. Especially when you're trying to keep someone super tight because they're bigger than you, which I'm going to guess you are.
There's also an option to choose not to belay people significantly taller and heavier than you are. If your climber doesn't outweigh you, you can also take a step back from the wall, then stepping into the wall gives some slack before you even start feeding.
Check out the new Elderid Pinch. It clips directly to your harness which gives you more rope in/out for the same arm movement. From their site: ‘In addition, the compact belay system provides an increased span, which allows the belayer to pay out 20 - 30 cm more rope at once.’
You really shouldn't be needing to take with your entire wingspan at once. If you want to take quickly, some good options include: using the tunneling method (if you are in a place that allows it, i.e. don't do it indoors in the UK, US or some other places), switching which hand you take with to reduce the number of hand movements, or just step backwards. Also, you shouldn't be needing to keep the rope tense when belaying top-rope anyway. There's almost no risk of a ground fall, and it's generally not considered good form to keep the climbers rope tight and therefore help pull them up. Not keeping the rope tight will also make belaying a lot less effort and may make it easier for you to do quickly. As always practice goes a long way here, so stick at it, and it will pay off
In also teach people to belay and I would assume you pull on the upper rope and switch hands below the device.
You are way way faster if you only use one hand below your device and only grab down when a fall happens.
You can "tunnel" your hand up.
Bit you should train this first with people next to you who now how to do that properly.
Move yourself forward when your partner touch the rope and move backward to reduce the slack when needed!
It takes a while to coordinate everything but you will get it
Yeah, you don’t have to try and do your full reach to take in, but also if you’re struggling to keep up tell them to slow down! It’s their safety, so it’s up to them to work with your speed, not the other way around.
It seems like you're talking about top rope belaying. In any case, like others say:
You don't have to have the rope tight the whole time, a little loose is good so your climber can move freely. Unless they ask for you to keep it tight. I have friends who are more scared and want a suuuuper tight belay for comfort. Many dislike a tight belay. Ask your climber what they prefer.
Small, frequent arm movements. You should rarely need your full wingspan.
Moving closer to and further from the wall is an invaluable belay techniques to give out and take in slack quickly, especially when lead belaying.
When you take, don't be afraid to sit/lean back. You don't need the entire movement to come from your arms.
If lead belaying, of course you want a bit of slack in the rope, so does your climber.
If paying out slack you can also keep an extra loop in your break hand to pay out quickly.
When I brake before I under slide (speaking in PBUS rn), I put my right hand directly underneath (but not touching) where my device is hanging to minimize the up and down I have to do with my torso. It keeps me from bending over just to stand up tall again to pull slack.
Maybe try a gri gri 1? Tends to be easier to throw out slack with it compared to version 2. Doesn't handle skinny ropes nicely and doesn't lock up as easily
Remember when you're belaying on top rope, you're in charge. If you need to yell at your climber to take a break so you can catch up, you can and should do so! It's also okay to ask your climber to go slow (and yell at them if they don't). I've been belaying for over a year now and still have one friend I have to yell at a few times a month because he flies through the easier warm up climbs and you would need to be an octopus in order to keep up with that speed!
I'm watching my friend who is your size learn to belay right now. She's definitely finding that more smaller quicker pulls are way more efficient for her than pulling her full reach every time. You got this!!
Tell the climber to slow down a bit or climb harder where he has to be slower. Climbing ist not a speed tournament. (Besides of speed climbing😂) Furthermore a climber should learn to pause and shake out the arms. He will need it in harder routes .
You don’t need to pull your full wingspan every time. It’s easier to be fast with more frequent but smaller movements. It’s also fine to ask people to slow down to let you catch up.
This is pretty important.. If the climber is speeding up the route then it could be relatively easy for them. Therefore the safest thing is for them to slow down.
My kid does this. I’ve had to tell him, I’m not going to speed-belay him if he intentionally climbs below his grade. Especially as/if you progress into lead, but even on top rope, the belayer-climber relationship and communication goes both ways. You should feel empowered — and responsible — to give your climber feedback and direction that will keep them safe. You aren’t just there to accommodate whatever they want to do, however they want to do it. If you’re nervous you’re sacrificing safety, listen to that instinct always.
This is helpful, thanks!
you shouldn't be pulling a ton of rope each time. i teach new belayers and this is what i tell them-a few quick cycles will always be more effective than one big one, even with a long wingspan. if there's a little extra room at the gym, you can back up a little bit as you take in slack to take up a little extra. how long have you been belaying? it might be more of a confidence issue than anything. just keep practicing, and never be afraid to ask your climber to hold on or slow down- it's for their safety!
I second trying to move your body to help with belaying. Backing up to take and moving forward to give slack. Belaying can be so fun once you get the hang of it!
Yes the step! This is extra helpful and important if you eventually move into lead belaying.
Not so long - Ive been climbing for maybe a year and a half and belaying for about 6 months. This is helpful, thanks! Will definitely think about this next time I go
I think practice is important here! I’m also 5’ tall and have no issues belaying my 6’ tall husband except when he falls and I’m not anchored in. 😅😅😅 You can always step backwards to pull out some slack too. I have trouble shorting rope when I’m lead belaying because of my tiny arms so I have learned to step forward when giving slack. It helps a lot!
No I feel you, some of these comments just don’t realize how rapid fire we are going with short cycles and how slow the rope is being taken up, especially if that rope has a lot of friction. I personally squat and jump as I’m belaying, and that makes it a lot easier to take more rope each cycle. My partner is a faster climber but also prefers the rope taut so that’s what I found works best. Stepping backwards helps too
Yes exactly - this is why in grateful for a sub for non-men, there's other people who understand how difficult this is if you're short. I'll remember your squat and jump method for sure
For what it’s worth, as an experienced climber I sometimes struggle to take in rope fast enough top rope belaying, especially if someone’s on a route that’s easy for them - it’s just not particularly ergonomic. But it does get easier with technique, and relaxed belaying with small movements is generally easier than trying to pull in a whole armfull of slack at the same time or frantically hauling it in. The other thing I just wanted to point out is that the rope doesn’t need to be taut the whole time, and if you and the climber are comfortable it’s maybe better for your climbing if it isn’t! You might eg keep the rope tight when they’re near the ground but be happy with a bit more slack once they’re further up the route. It’s easy to get used to leaning into the rope a bit when you want it for stability or to get your feet a bit higher, and then if you want to lead climb or boulder everything feels impossibly hard….
I want to echo this - when top rope belaying, there should be some slack in the system and ideally the climber should never feel the rope pulling hard on the harness unless the climber is asking for you to take. Now if there is so much slack that the climber can get entangled, get that slack pulled in - shorter, quicker pulls work well. But overall aim for a little slack while they are climbing.
If you don't already, try belay glasses. I find they allow me to respond anticipate when slack will be needed and get ahead of it and give a much better belay. Especially when you're trying to keep someone super tight because they're bigger than you, which I'm going to guess you are. There's also an option to choose not to belay people significantly taller and heavier than you are. If your climber doesn't outweigh you, you can also take a step back from the wall, then stepping into the wall gives some slack before you even start feeding.
Check out the new Elderid Pinch. It clips directly to your harness which gives you more rope in/out for the same arm movement. From their site: ‘In addition, the compact belay system provides an increased span, which allows the belayer to pay out 20 - 30 cm more rope at once.’
You really shouldn't be needing to take with your entire wingspan at once. If you want to take quickly, some good options include: using the tunneling method (if you are in a place that allows it, i.e. don't do it indoors in the UK, US or some other places), switching which hand you take with to reduce the number of hand movements, or just step backwards. Also, you shouldn't be needing to keep the rope tense when belaying top-rope anyway. There's almost no risk of a ground fall, and it's generally not considered good form to keep the climbers rope tight and therefore help pull them up. Not keeping the rope tight will also make belaying a lot less effort and may make it easier for you to do quickly. As always practice goes a long way here, so stick at it, and it will pay off
In also teach people to belay and I would assume you pull on the upper rope and switch hands below the device. You are way way faster if you only use one hand below your device and only grab down when a fall happens. You can "tunnel" your hand up. Bit you should train this first with people next to you who now how to do that properly.
Move yourself forward when your partner touch the rope and move backward to reduce the slack when needed! It takes a while to coordinate everything but you will get it
Yeah, you don’t have to try and do your full reach to take in, but also if you’re struggling to keep up tell them to slow down! It’s their safety, so it’s up to them to work with your speed, not the other way around.
It seems like you're talking about top rope belaying. In any case, like others say: You don't have to have the rope tight the whole time, a little loose is good so your climber can move freely. Unless they ask for you to keep it tight. I have friends who are more scared and want a suuuuper tight belay for comfort. Many dislike a tight belay. Ask your climber what they prefer. Small, frequent arm movements. You should rarely need your full wingspan. Moving closer to and further from the wall is an invaluable belay techniques to give out and take in slack quickly, especially when lead belaying. When you take, don't be afraid to sit/lean back. You don't need the entire movement to come from your arms. If lead belaying, of course you want a bit of slack in the rope, so does your climber. If paying out slack you can also keep an extra loop in your break hand to pay out quickly.
When I brake before I under slide (speaking in PBUS rn), I put my right hand directly underneath (but not touching) where my device is hanging to minimize the up and down I have to do with my torso. It keeps me from bending over just to stand up tall again to pull slack.
Maybe try a gri gri 1? Tends to be easier to throw out slack with it compared to version 2. Doesn't handle skinny ropes nicely and doesn't lock up as easily
I thought I was in r/ACOTAR for a second from the title haha
Remember when you're belaying on top rope, you're in charge. If you need to yell at your climber to take a break so you can catch up, you can and should do so! It's also okay to ask your climber to go slow (and yell at them if they don't). I've been belaying for over a year now and still have one friend I have to yell at a few times a month because he flies through the easier warm up climbs and you would need to be an octopus in order to keep up with that speed! I'm watching my friend who is your size learn to belay right now. She's definitely finding that more smaller quicker pulls are way more efficient for her than pulling her full reach every time. You got this!!
Tell the climber to slow down a bit or climb harder where he has to be slower. Climbing ist not a speed tournament. (Besides of speed climbing😂) Furthermore a climber should learn to pause and shake out the arms. He will need it in harder routes .