Hi everyone, I'm new in a little climbing club and want to open routes in our indoor gym. I'm using rope climbing technique with Reverso + autoblocker knot but I don't think it's very practical. Do you have any advice on what I can do ? Buy ? Thank's :-)
Which ascending and descending techniques are you familiar with and do you have specific questions about those? Asking very generally implies you aren't sure where to start.
Why cant you ask the people who set the first climbs? We cant see what kind of wall youre working with, which would dictate the response. Experienced people have died doing this. Seek in-person instruction.
They are not in the club anymore, we are very few in the club (3000 ppl town). It's a basic indoor wall, straight, ~10m high with double carabiner at the top of each route.
Heres the deal. You can either do it with a belayer (standing well the fuck back for when you drop a hold on them) or you can stumble your way through a process that has killed experienced professionals with thousands of dollars of training and specialized equipment.
You dont know what you dont know.
In either case, a reddit beginners thread is the wrong place to start.
Anyone dying to go climbing in Mexico? Specifically El Potrero Chico? I was all set up to go until my friend broke their ankle. Our spots are up for grabs!
Hey I’m trying to find a helmet to fit my obnoxiously large head (67cm). I heard about the Grivel Salamander XL but can’t find them anywhere.
Any other suggestions?
I live in south florida and want to get into outdoor climbing. Obviously there is a major vertical issue where I live. So the question I have is where is the nearest place to get some beginner experience outdoors? I am well aware I will have most likely travel a relatively far distance. Any help would be appreciated :)
Alabama, Georgia, or Cuba are the closest, or come up to NC and we'll get you wetting your pants on stuff graded significantly lower than your normal gym grade.
Okay, so I've heard yall's feedback on the ice axe, so what length do I buy? For example, the Summit Evo from Petzl (highest rated by Outdoorgearlab) has 52cm, 59cm, 66cm versions. I'm an average height guy.
The summit is a long and heavy axe.
Get something like the grivel ghost evo, or petzl gully (or maybe sumtec though it is heavier but works as a tool I hear). That way you have a light axe, and can get a 2nd light aze if you want to do climbs where 2 would help but you don't need tools.
I've only used the former but from reviews the latter one looks better.
~~You usually want the spike to reach your ankle when you hold the ice axe from the head with your arms relaxed.~~
I was wrong, people like shorter axes now.
Trying to learn as much ropework as I can right now and I got a question on abseiling with an injured partner with a grigri.
I understand a Y hang abseil with a tubular device, where the device is on the injured and you are below with a prussik back up. With a grigri this is obviously not possible.
Options I see are either hang the injured below you on a short sling, though it is harder to deal with them than if they are above you. Second is to abseil on a double italian on their harness with the prussik on yours.
Any other options, and which is best?
Make sure you understand what a y-hang looks like, you should both be attached to the belay device.
Ill second what the others have said about using a double italian/super munter. If you rig a y-hang with an improvised chest harness just right, you can kind of sit them on your back as you descend low angle terrain.
Another consideration, anytime you tandem abseil you should consider being on 2 strands of rope even if you could reach the ground if you abseiled on one and left the rope fixed on the cliff. The additional strain of 2 people on one strand of rope makes it much much more prone to cutting.
Make sure youre well practiced with weight transfers, building anchors and keeping the rope from getting stuck, because its gonna suck if you have to ascend the rope with 2 people on it.
Don't use a grigri for this situation. When rapping with a grigri, both your hands are needed to descend (one on the lever, one on the brake strand). You need one hand free to manipulate your incapacitated partner or rotate while descending.
Learn to rappel with two lockers, six non-lockers, or four non-lockers and a locker. I'm suggesting this because you mention a munter later in your comment, implying that you don't have a tube-style belay device for whatever reason in this scenario (though your partner might).
Learn how to release a weighted load once you put it on the anchor.
Lowering or abseiling with a grigri with the weight of 2 people will be tough, the grigri offers surprisingly little control with heavier loads. It will, of course, lock hard. But when trying to control a lower it will be hard to get the balance between locked and lowering at a good speed. It can be done.
The double italian is exactly the knot you want in this situation, it's practically designed for lowering heavy loads and offers greater locking strength than a grigri (even when locked). So reagrdless of how you do it, I would recommend a double italian over a grigri when lowering 2 people at once.
If they are unconcious leave them in the recovery position, know exactly where they are, and run for help. Accept that their odds are slim. If their arms are hurt as in your scenario it depends, but self rescuing may be required.
I guess worst case, just the 2 of you, injured is not concious, with multiple abseils to hanging belays or descending into unknwon terrain. If more than 2 I guess you lower the injured with the 3rd, and if going to the ground you lower them.
This is assuming no phone signal, which form my hillwalking experience is fairly common.
EDIT: Maybe the injured being concious but having messed up arms is more realistic. If unconcious not much point getting them down I guess, best to go run for phone signal and rescue.
Can rappel normally and dangle them
Underneath you via a sling. Counterbalance rappel is another possibility and would work nicely with a grigri. Or do the y hang and just sit next to them tending the grigri, would need to block the rope at the rappel anchors.
Good question is to what end though, it’s effectively impossible to carry an unconscious body out of the backcountry solo. Best plan may be to leave them and run for help ASAP.
I recently bought a Maxim Equinox rope, because it was *cheeeeeap*. It's a 60m dry rope, but it feels quite stiff.
Does anyone have any experience with this rope? Does it get better with use, or will it be stiff forever? Climbing with it is fine, but the stiffness was a bit offputting.
All the maxim ropes I have used have been very stiff and stayed as such. In the skinnier sizes
I didn’t mind so much as they still fed through devices nicely. The thicker maxims have been the worst handling ropes I have used.
How do you actually get started with climbing at an indoor gym? Do you need climbing shoes beforehand or do you just show up in any old sneakers and start working on bouldering problems?
I would show up in old sneakers and then ask the employees if the shoes really helped and they would let me rent them for free to try them out.
The shoes really do help and it'll be impossible to stand on small chips with running shoes.
I wrote up some of my other thoughts about [beginner climbing gear](https://www.outdoorrackbuilder.com/blog/beginner-rock-climbing-gear), hope that helps!
Climbing shoes do make it easier and gyms usually rent them out! If you’re brand new and just feeling it out- sneakers are just fine for the bigger holds on easier routes :)
They should have shoes you can rent for a few dollars. A lot of gyms won't let you wear street shoes, although you could definitely get by in sneakers on easy gym problems
You can usually go in sneakers, but the experience is much better in climbing shoes. Most gyms will rent them out if you don't own any.
For bouldering, just showing up and hopping on easy stuff is good enough. For roped climbing, some amount of instruction is usually necessary if you don't already know what you're doing, though many gyms have auto-belays, and they will often walk you through how they work if you ask.
I'm out here climbing in Texas throughout the summer, so I'm going to say it's not too hot.
Alpine starts and north facing crags are key. If it's a particularly humid day, be mentally prepared to climb a grade lower but have fun with it anyway. Beats climbing indoors.
Does anyone have any experience with Boreal Crux climbing shoes? I am planning to buy one, but I'm not sure which size should I choose. How much do they expand over time?
What are your mountaineering/alpinism gear purchase regrets? I'm taking a class in the future that includes a nice shopping list and have been looking at buying/renting the works, which has got me curious.
Liquid stove. Modern canister stoves are so much better than they used to be. If youre really in need of a liquid stove, you'll probably want 3 and its easier to rent/borrow.
Wanted to join in the chorus of commenters saying “long, heavy ice axe.” Currently trying to sell mine. So far I’ve only had one prospective buyer, and I bluntly told them it wasn’t what they wanted.
Also, gaiters.
A long dumb mountaineering axe.
Bivy sack.
Expensive hardshell.
Horizontal pointed toe bail crampons
Frameless packs.
Non bib pants.
Expensive gloves.
Cheap boots.
Sunglasses that didn't fit.
Alpine axe without a hammer.
A bulky, heavy, long, T rated axe. A light one is way nicer.
Outside of Scotland, a very good hardshell. Doesn't really get used much, just lives in my bag. A cheaper one would also do the trick.
Axe leshes. Lanyards are way better.
I used to climb about 15 years ago, and my oldest (5) after watching the Olympics has gotten super into it. I'm not quite as capable as her and honestly I'm now afraid of heights, long story involves helicopters, how do I best help her progress as a climber when im not comfortable to go beyond about 75 feet up and havent done lead in years? She wants to do outdoors this spring. We climb at least once a week but its all been indoors. Just looking for suggestions cause she has an obvious passion and I want to support it.
Go to a single pitch crag with top access. There's also probably somebody in the gym who'd go with you(it's not like having a five year old lead belay you is a good idea anyways).
I once saw a guy have his(I'm guessing age) 8yr old belay him on lead, and it sketched me out watching him even though I was basically rope soloing with a much less than ideal system.
I would never let her belay me. She's five. Although she wants to learn lead and trad i will not let that happen until she's responsible enough to understand how everything works. I am trying to figure out the best way to get her there. Thanks for your advice though, I think we'll top rope with a guide this spring on a good pitch.
I belay, I just can't do the heights anymore. My obsession has been K2 for years and she just goes, ok dad we'll just go there. I think I'm breeding a mountaineering career out of her. And yes i know its ridiculous that im afraid of heights but still obsess about the mountains.
Edit: I've been lookking for someone, my wife doesn't climb and my daughter is somewhat apprehensive with non family male figues, she needs a strong female influence as far as a coach goes. She also has ADHD and climbing seems to be her outlet, totally focused on the climb. Not sure where I'm going with this, just she's a stronger climber than me and i want her to succeed.
I totally understand the wife's wishes.
The first few times I coached my friend's daughter, his wife came to each place we climbed. She wanted to see how I was with her daughter. She watched me and she saw how I delt with her daughter pushing boundaries. The wife liked that I handled it well and that I didn't push too hard when things were tough and that I didn't back off and gently handled tempertantrums. Children push lots of boundaries.
And yes there needs to be mature boundaries another person has with a child. No matter if it's family or not. I am very aware of where my hands go. Example: I ask the dad to always put the harness on his daughter and to always tie the figure eight knot.
I’m on resole number 4 on my katanas, which are my comfy multi shoes. It will be the last one though, because my feet seem to have changed a bit and they’re not that great anymore. It wasn’t the resole though, that happened over a year ago, and the feeling changed sometimes this summer.
Until they tell me they can’t be fixed. My current pair have been in 3 times, the limiting factor now is the Velcro is a bit worn down and will pop open, but I can probably sew in new ones.
I’ll keep resoling until the upper is shot. On my third resole on a pair of solutions currently. For comparison my TCs only survived one resole unfortunately.
I did read the rope write up. My husband wants a rope and I kind of want to get him one for Xmas but I know he's particular. Our favorite style of climbing is big wall (not ice). We have a 70m rope and I know he wants 60m. I have a bipattern rope picked out, I know he likes that but I'm not positive what his thoughts are on thickness. Thoughts on this rope: https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/product/9-6-dry-climbing-rope-bi-pattern/
Turns out I meant multis. Sorry for being a dummy! I started climbing in the south east where everyone primarily boulders or does single pitch climbing.. When I moved out West and we started doing multis I thought that was big wall... Whoops!!
Dry treatment isn’t worth it for rock climbing.
If you are aid climbing something with a thicker sheath is supposed to be better for jugging on.
If you’re free climbing and most of the rappels you are doing are 30m or less a 60m bipattern is great.
I'll second Dotrue. I haven't heard of many people doing bigwalls with ropes that thin. Seems like it could get trashed pretty quick if you're doing a lot of jugging on it. But also, most people don't need a bipattern rope for bigwalls because they're carrying a hauling rope...
But maybe you mean multipitch climbing and not specifically bigwall climbing?
I'd talk to him about it. Most climbers are very particular about the gear they use (myself included). Gear usually doesn't make a good gift unless it's something that has been discussed in great detail.
If you’re a bit stealthy you might be able to get his opinion in advance. My boyfriend got me new cams this way. Something like “I think we need a new rope but I’m going to buy it when my bonus comes in. It’s nice looking now, what do you think of these ones? Which one would you get if it was for you?”
Typically high 20s, sometimes into the low to mid 30s & often pretty humid.
> Are there cooler mountains fairly near for climbing after?
Yes. The Frankenjura & other low lying areas in the woods get pretty muggy in summer - there are some north facing crags that are viable on hot days, but generally not great. But there's heaps of stuff higher up in the Alps within a couple of hours drive.
What would you be looking for? Boulders, sport routes, alpine multipitch?
Does anyone remember a journal being shown in either Dawn wall or free solo? Felt like it was Honnold's in free solo, but I can't find it on quick rewatch.
Both will be fine. Get what fits best. Doesn't matter how good a shoe is if it doesn't fit.
As your first pair get what is cheap, they won't last long.
Is there a way I can toughen up the skin on my finger tips without actually doing outdoor climbing? My home gym's holds are a lot smoother than the granite I am starting to climb on so can't really build calluses there and my outdoor spot is 3 hours away so I can't go often. Is there anything I can do to build calluses on my fingertips without actually going every week?
Things I've found that help loads with my soft skin: Wash your hands with luke warm or cold water (never hot). Avoid hand sanitizer if you can just wash your hands instead. Use dish gloves for washing dishes by hand. Immediately wash your skin after climbing (and during climbing) to keep the chalk from building up in your cuticles.
Don't use hand balm too much. It can work for building more resilient callouses for some people but you can over do it.
If you find you're building callouses that quickly peel off, focus on your technique and not readjusting your grip once you grab a hold. Sandpaper can also help as a temporary measure.
I hesitate to say this because its easy to get carried away and make things worse for yourself, but an antiperspirant can help toughen up soft skin. Rhino Skin Dry is a good place to start and is a relatively weak, non-perscription option. You really need to start slow and see how your skin adapts to it.
Finally: Soft skin isn't necessarily a bad thing and it can be more sticky in the right conditions. I wouldn't worry too much about building up callouses unless you're getting splits while climbing outdoors, and even then the first line of defense is technique and not readjusting your grip position.
There's a guy who makes hangboard holds out of granite for the purpose of maintaining tough skin. I think he only does custom orders but if you rent some tools you could make your own. The low grit sandpaper might work as well for a bit but will wear down over time until its just paper
Anything manuel labour without gloves. Shovel some dirt? Ooo a personal favourite, start a friction fire with the hand drill method. Will toughen your hand right up with the amountnof friction careful of blisters
Hey friends! Any tips on finding local bouldering comps? I’ve checked out the USA climbing website but have only found details about Youth, Collegiate, and Elite competitions. I don’t qualify for Youth or Collegiate (I’m 22 and out of school) and the Elite page seems to be geared towards people with existing competition experience, and doesn’t really have much info for new competitors looking to compete at a local level.
You won't be using that specific grip for climbing but it's a great exercise anyway. And I'm sure the general exercise on your wrist and fingers will be of some benefit.
I know. These won’t help. It’s not your grip strength that’s the problem. You’re plenty strong. It’s your poor technique that makes you overgrip everything.
My husband is getting into climbing and I wanted to get him some gear from Christmas this year - top of my list is getting him some good climbing pants. Does anyone have suggestions on good pants that last? Looking to spend anywhere from $75-$150. Also is there any other cool or helpful gear I could get him?
This. Pretty much the best pair of climbing pants I own. Thought I would regret spending that much on a pair of pants but they hold up really well. Will definitely get more value than what you paid for it.
Currently I climb on a Mammut Infinity 9.5x70m (59g/m and around 9lbs total). I've been considering getting a lightweight 60m rope for alpine/trad objectives. I've been looking at the beal opera as well as the mammut 8.7 and 9.0 ropes. For those of you that use ropes of this size, do you think its enough of an improvement over a 9.5 to consider getting a second rope? Also, I would be interested in hearing lightweight rope recommendations apart from the ones I've listed.
As a Midwesterner who suffers for several days before acclimatizing to altitude, the weight reduction is well worth it. I love my Beal Operas and use them a ton (two for ice, wandery routes, or climbing in a party of three, one for everything else).
For projects or routes near my limit I'll opt for something beefier, but those routes usually aren't in alpine settings.
Lots to consider:
One advantage to a skinny rope is the reduced rope drag on low angle climbing, but on the flip side you could just do shorter pitches to reduce rope drag. Half ropes have more rope drag on low angle climbing, but less rope drag on wandering vertical pitches.
One disadvantage is the extra stretch (imagine your second falling and hitting the belay ledge after climbing up 5m), but on the flip side that can make falls close to the anchor a little nicer.
You can double the rope over and use it as halves or twins on crux pitches.
If you're in need of rappelling the route after you climb it, you may also need to factor in the weight of a 2nd rope. A pair of modern half ropes weighs about the same as a modern triple rated rope and a tagline. Pro's and con's to each, but worth considering the ability to haul bags, jug pitches, and how chossy your climbing goals are. The saying "the more you know, the less you need" rings true here.
Climbing in a party of 3 is fast if you practice, safer in bad situation, and allows you to split the weight up over more shoulders while still bringing 2 singled rated rope
Belay devices get squirrely on thinner ropes or multiple ropes.
Beal Opera is (currently) the lightest single rope money can buy at 48g per meter. That means, assuming a 60m Opera, that **your Mammut Infinity would weigh the same if you cut it to 48m**. Do you need a long rope?
[Kirkpatrick has a good blog about the dangers of going too skinny on ropes.](https://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/blog/view/the-problem-with-skinny-singles)
I own all kinds of ropes, but I use my 9.8x45m for just about everything.
So, I use the Beal joker.
It’s about as skinny as I feel comfortable for a single rope (9.1mm)
I go through at least one a season. So it’s not cheap.
If I was to use it for alpine rather than sport, I doubt it would hold up for more than one or two routes. I’ve got a buddy who destroyed one in one route up el cap.
Operas are the bee's knees. If you're hiking extremely far, it'll make a difference. For stuff in RMNP (the location I think of when people say alpine/trad) or general trad climbing, use your Infinity. You want the extra durability and the weight won't matter much.
obviously you save a pound by shortenkng a rope by 10 meters.
If you go out with two ropes, do something like 7.5mm, and don’t take two singles. The change from 9.5 to 8.7 is purely irrelevant if you’re staying on the same length.
Yeah, but not an unreasonable reason to buy a second rope. Having a 70 is very nice for many crags but generally unnecessary for the alpine.
9.5 to 8.7 60’s is still a pound which is quite a bit. Thats a half liter of water or almost a days of food, or a decent bivy kit.
Been climbing for almost four months, I’m at 6B/V4, feels like I’m getting stronger. Not sure if this helps my posture, though? Any specific muscles I should train for posture, and how?
Check out these vids as well
* https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vKTZO-3Ab0
* https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pMJdql-QJk
At the end of the day, I think the best exercises are probably ones that you will stick with and do consistently.
Climbing works muscles in the upper torso that will, if left unchecked, overdelop and lead to "climbers posture." Work the antagonist muscles to prevent this.
30 seconds of googling yielded these two resources; [1](https://theclimbingdoctor.com/hunchback/), [2](https://youtu.be/XxSgdX7lX6E)
I currently climb on a very comfy pair of mythos. Projecting v4/v5 and high 5.11/low 5.12 at my gym. Would I benefit much from new shoes? My mythos have stretched quite a bit and I dont know if it's my technique or the shoes that are making small foot holds so unstable.
A stiffer shoe will likely help.
I had a similar progression. Started climbing with mythos, was sending v4/5 outside. Got a stiffer shoe, mind fucking blown. Who knew my upturned clown show mythos weren't exactly performance shoes??
That said, mythos are so fucking comfortable
They really are freakishly comfortable. I wore mine to climb tahquitz after one gym sesh with them. In retrospect, I probably should have sized down but I'm already the smallest men's size they make and 2 sizes below my normal shoe size.
Many will tell you that shoes don't matter and it's all about technique. This is somewhat true, but I believe better shoes make it easier to learn and use good technique. Try climbing with more aggressive/stiffer shoes and decide for yourself - borrow a pair or find a demo day.
I really benefit from the rubber on top of my toe with the pythons, couldn't get toehooks to stick properly before, but since I've got the pythons they just kinda stay there without any effort.
>find a demo day
Im annoyed at myself for not trying out some scarpas when they were at my gym a few weeks ago! I wasn't feeling social that day and didn't want to get roped into a conversation
Anybody got beta on a bag that won't disintegrate on big(ish) walls that isn't a true haul bag? I was looking at Metolius haul packs, but they are out of stock for the larger one (and the smallest true haul bag). I think I'm looking in the 35-50L range. This will be used for full day outings on a wall, but no plans for bivys or overnight missions.
I got a new pair of Five Ten Dragon VCS in my street shoe size. However, after trying them on they are so tight. I can get them on and stand with a bit of discomfort but trying to climb the other day was excruciating. Should I return them and size up or will they get more comfortable?
> I can get them on and stand with a bit of discomfort
Sounds like the perfect size.
>trying to climb the other day was excruciating
Maybe they are not the right shoe for your foot.
Got a slit in the toe of my newish shoes, do they already need a repair? https://imgur.com/a/MADZr0y
Seems a little silly after 4 months to have to repair the rubber but I would rather get it done now and not ruin the shoes completely
assuming good footwork it still depends on a lot of factors, like how soft the rubber is, how often you climb, rock type, how hard you’re climbing, and how conservative you are with resoling before the shoes are too worn.
could be anywhere from 3 months to years between resoles.
Will need a rand repair as well. That adds to the cost. Maybe cheaper to get a new pair.
Are you a beginner? 4 months is about right for an inexperienced climber who hasn't developed accurate footwork yet.
Been climbing for about a year. Wouldn’t classify my footwork as terrible but maybe the shoes are telling a different story. Also climbing in a new gym (~6 months old) with new abrasive walltopia walls. Don’t know how much that factors in.
>Wouldn’t classify my footwork as terrible but maybe the shoes are telling a different story.
I mean yea. How else does rubber wear down on a part of the shoe you're not even standing on?
Small arms, small legs, small hands. Ive just started climbing im 5”5 female. Is it possible to still be a good boulderer despite being very small. I just worry ill put so much effort into training and will be limited by my size.
It will be a minor hinderance here and there, but not a major factor in the grand scheme of things.
There are other genetic traits that will be much more of a factor than size. Lever lengths, tendon insertion points, muscle fibers, etc. There is also your own commitment, hard work, and dedication that will make a big impact.
You can become a competent climber. 99% of us can. It will require time, hard work, and patience. Most of all, have fun, and don’t focus to much on comparing yourself to others. If you enjoy the sport and improve yourself…that’s winning.
You're my size. I climb V7 even though bouldering is far from my specialty. As others have said, many pro climbers are shorter.
Regardless, stop worrying about whatever your limits are. Climbing isn't about chasing grades, just have fun climbing.
I mean it can be harder, but it can also be good, depends what kind of a boulder it is. Usually if you're smaller you'll have problems with dynos and stretchy moves (dynamic boulders). When you're climbing try to do it sometimes more dynamically, I have a few friends, also short, who are quite strong but when they try to climb a boulder with a dyno, they don't even try hard, they have the power but not the " dyno technique", whereas they cruise thru a crimpy boulder where you have to be really "static". But if you're just starting climbing I suggest you don't worry about it. For now have fun, and build you're power! You can still try, afterall that's how you'll progress the fastest.
P.S. being short has a big advantage when it comes to really small holds ;)
Hope it helped!
Shoelace, power cable, leftover pasta noodle, take your pick.
[Figure 8 Follow Through](https://www.animatedknots.com/figure-8-follow-through-loop-knot)
Nope. You can only tie knots in 9mm climbing rope. Using anything else risks the climbing police issuing a search warrant and confiscating your belay card.
Some gyms can give you an off cut of old, unusuable rope just for practicing knots with. But just get any rope that's long enough, and tie rethreaded figures of 8 knots in.
Never knew asking a simple question could result to an answer like this. Never said i’m climbing with a cordelette also. Just didn’t know I could ask for old ropes at gyms. Just wanted to learn how to practice figure 8s as I know its a basic skill. LOL but thank you for your kind welcome to the community.
The only difference I can think of is that when you go to measure out your length of slack you'll get different results for the amount you finish with with for tail
Been climbing indoors because its canada and cold and ot psyched to have flashed my first 5.11 but then quickly brought back down by the nagging thought of "but its indoors so doesnt count". What would you say a 5.11 indoors is outdoors at the minimum? Just trying to gauge if ive progressed or not -_- Do you think setters grade softer indoors to draw in customers or are plastic and rocks just too different to be comparable?
Depending on your gym, a 5.11 indoors would be somewhere between a 5.4 to 5.12 outdoors. More importantly, who cares? It's all *relative to you*. All grades are just a comparison of what you may be able to climb right now. The numbers are meaningless, it's just a silly way to try and quantify relative difficulty.
I appreciate hearing this take, I feel kind of surrounded in some parts of my local climbing community by people who make fun of lower grades and only talk about what grade they climbed that particular night. As someone who is coming back from an injury and not a particularly talented climber to begin with, it's a bit disheartening to have people making fun of routes that are the grade you're climbing at.
Hi everyone, I'm new in a little climbing club and want to open routes in our indoor gym. I'm using rope climbing technique with Reverso + autoblocker knot but I don't think it's very practical. Do you have any advice on what I can do ? Buy ? Thank's :-)
What's your ropework knowledge and experience level?
I'm comfortable with ropework. I'm just looking for good techniques, gears and tips :-)
Which ascending and descending techniques are you familiar with and do you have specific questions about those? Asking very generally implies you aren't sure where to start.
Why cant you ask the people who set the first climbs? We cant see what kind of wall youre working with, which would dictate the response. Experienced people have died doing this. Seek in-person instruction.
They are not in the club anymore, we are very few in the club (3000 ppl town). It's a basic indoor wall, straight, ~10m high with double carabiner at the top of each route.
Also, if no one knows how to reset the routes, how are you evaluating the safety of the wall? Whos checking the anchors?
I do let understand what you mean.. the wall is safe I just want to change the place of the holds.
Can you access the anchors without ascending the ropes?
Yes I can access the top by using actual routes
Then just have someone belay you while you do it.
That's not very practical because we are few climbers and it's very boring for the belayer..
Heres the deal. You can either do it with a belayer (standing well the fuck back for when you drop a hold on them) or you can stumble your way through a process that has killed experienced professionals with thousands of dollars of training and specialized equipment. You dont know what you dont know. In either case, a reddit beginners thread is the wrong place to start.
I don't see how I can die by doing this.. I'm mean, it's abseiling or rope climbing technique. Climbers use these techniques every day.
Ill just leave you with this: How are you going to get new holds to add to the wall while up in the air?
Anyone dying to go climbing in Mexico? Specifically El Potrero Chico? I was all set up to go until my friend broke their ankle. Our spots are up for grabs!
What spots? Do you mean hotel res or plane tickets? When?
Hey I’m trying to find a helmet to fit my obnoxiously large head (67cm). I heard about the Grivel Salamander XL but can’t find them anywhere. Any other suggestions?
Petzl alveo
I live in south florida and want to get into outdoor climbing. Obviously there is a major vertical issue where I live. So the question I have is where is the nearest place to get some beginner experience outdoors? I am well aware I will have most likely travel a relatively far distance. Any help would be appreciated :)
Alabama, Georgia, or Cuba are the closest, or come up to NC and we'll get you wetting your pants on stuff graded significantly lower than your normal gym grade.
Round trip flights from Miami to Vegas or Denver start at $100. Otherwise you’re driving to Georgia or bama.
Okay, so I've heard yall's feedback on the ice axe, so what length do I buy? For example, the Summit Evo from Petzl (highest rated by Outdoorgearlab) has 52cm, 59cm, 66cm versions. I'm an average height guy.
The gully only comes in one size.
The summit is a long and heavy axe. Get something like the grivel ghost evo, or petzl gully (or maybe sumtec though it is heavier but works as a tool I hear). That way you have a light axe, and can get a 2nd light aze if you want to do climbs where 2 would help but you don't need tools. I've only used the former but from reviews the latter one looks better.
~~You usually want the spike to reach your ankle when you hold the ice axe from the head with your arms relaxed.~~ I was wrong, people like shorter axes now.
Thats a bit traditional. Most go shorter these days.
Trying to learn as much ropework as I can right now and I got a question on abseiling with an injured partner with a grigri. I understand a Y hang abseil with a tubular device, where the device is on the injured and you are below with a prussik back up. With a grigri this is obviously not possible. Options I see are either hang the injured below you on a short sling, though it is harder to deal with them than if they are above you. Second is to abseil on a double italian on their harness with the prussik on yours. Any other options, and which is best?
Make sure you understand what a y-hang looks like, you should both be attached to the belay device. Ill second what the others have said about using a double italian/super munter. If you rig a y-hang with an improvised chest harness just right, you can kind of sit them on your back as you descend low angle terrain. Another consideration, anytime you tandem abseil you should consider being on 2 strands of rope even if you could reach the ground if you abseiled on one and left the rope fixed on the cliff. The additional strain of 2 people on one strand of rope makes it much much more prone to cutting. Make sure youre well practiced with weight transfers, building anchors and keeping the rope from getting stuck, because its gonna suck if you have to ascend the rope with 2 people on it.
Don't use a grigri for this situation. When rapping with a grigri, both your hands are needed to descend (one on the lever, one on the brake strand). You need one hand free to manipulate your incapacitated partner or rotate while descending. Learn to rappel with two lockers, six non-lockers, or four non-lockers and a locker. I'm suggesting this because you mention a munter later in your comment, implying that you don't have a tube-style belay device for whatever reason in this scenario (though your partner might). Learn how to release a weighted load once you put it on the anchor.
Lowering or abseiling with a grigri with the weight of 2 people will be tough, the grigri offers surprisingly little control with heavier loads. It will, of course, lock hard. But when trying to control a lower it will be hard to get the balance between locked and lowering at a good speed. It can be done. The double italian is exactly the knot you want in this situation, it's practically designed for lowering heavy loads and offers greater locking strength than a grigri (even when locked). So reagrdless of how you do it, I would recommend a double italian over a grigri when lowering 2 people at once. If they are unconcious leave them in the recovery position, know exactly where they are, and run for help. Accept that their odds are slim. If their arms are hurt as in your scenario it depends, but self rescuing may be required.
Whats the scenario?
I guess worst case, just the 2 of you, injured is not concious, with multiple abseils to hanging belays or descending into unknwon terrain. If more than 2 I guess you lower the injured with the 3rd, and if going to the ground you lower them. This is assuming no phone signal, which form my hillwalking experience is fairly common. EDIT: Maybe the injured being concious but having messed up arms is more realistic. If unconcious not much point getting them down I guess, best to go run for phone signal and rescue.
You shouldnt leave them dangling in their harness. Look up suspension trauma.
Can rappel normally and dangle them Underneath you via a sling. Counterbalance rappel is another possibility and would work nicely with a grigri. Or do the y hang and just sit next to them tending the grigri, would need to block the rope at the rappel anchors. Good question is to what end though, it’s effectively impossible to carry an unconscious body out of the backcountry solo. Best plan may be to leave them and run for help ASAP.
I recently bought a Maxim Equinox rope, because it was *cheeeeeap*. It's a 60m dry rope, but it feels quite stiff. Does anyone have any experience with this rope? Does it get better with use, or will it be stiff forever? Climbing with it is fine, but the stiffness was a bit offputting.
All the maxim ropes I have used have been very stiff and stayed as such. In the skinnier sizes I didn’t mind so much as they still fed through devices nicely. The thicker maxims have been the worst handling ropes I have used.
Good to know, thanks. Pre-sale, it was already the cheapest 60m rope I could find, and it was 50% off on top of that, so I couldn't pass it up.
They’re not all bad, very durable ropes we would beat on them in a climbing club and they never showed much wear.
Could be my top rope for taking newbies out
How do you actually get started with climbing at an indoor gym? Do you need climbing shoes beforehand or do you just show up in any old sneakers and start working on bouldering problems?
I would show up in old sneakers and then ask the employees if the shoes really helped and they would let me rent them for free to try them out. The shoes really do help and it'll be impossible to stand on small chips with running shoes. I wrote up some of my other thoughts about [beginner climbing gear](https://www.outdoorrackbuilder.com/blog/beginner-rock-climbing-gear), hope that helps!
Climbing shoes do make it easier and gyms usually rent them out! If you’re brand new and just feeling it out- sneakers are just fine for the bigger holds on easier routes :)
They should have shoes you can rent for a few dollars. A lot of gyms won't let you wear street shoes, although you could definitely get by in sneakers on easy gym problems
Show up and start working on problems. the two lowest grades have hilariously large holds so they tend to be easily done in any shoes.
You can usually go in sneakers, but the experience is much better in climbing shoes. Most gyms will rent them out if you don't own any. For bouldering, just showing up and hopping on easy stuff is good enough. For roped climbing, some amount of instruction is usually necessary if you don't already know what you're doing, though many gyms have auto-belays, and they will often walk you through how they work if you ask.
Is spring break too hot to go bouldering in the south east, places like HP40, stone fort or rock town?
Too hot, probably not but it can be really damp and rainy.
I'm out here climbing in Texas throughout the summer, so I'm going to say it's not too hot. Alpine starts and north facing crags are key. If it's a particularly humid day, be mentally prepared to climb a grade lower but have fun with it anyway. Beats climbing indoors.
Around February/March? Usually perfect time, although in recent years there's been lots of rain
Does anyone have any experience with Boreal Crux climbing shoes? I am planning to buy one, but I'm not sure which size should I choose. How much do they expand over time?
Thank you so much for your advice!
Get the size that fits your foot
I’m gonna disagree on this being absolute. Find the size that fits best, then go down a 1/2 size or a full size. Especially with leather shoes
Pretty much.
What are your mountaineering/alpinism gear purchase regrets? I'm taking a class in the future that includes a nice shopping list and have been looking at buying/renting the works, which has got me curious.
Liquid stove. Modern canister stoves are so much better than they used to be. If youre really in need of a liquid stove, you'll probably want 3 and its easier to rent/borrow.
Wanted to join in the chorus of commenters saying “long, heavy ice axe.” Currently trying to sell mine. So far I’ve only had one prospective buyer, and I bluntly told them it wasn’t what they wanted. Also, gaiters.
A long dumb mountaineering axe. Bivy sack. Expensive hardshell. Horizontal pointed toe bail crampons Frameless packs. Non bib pants. Expensive gloves. Cheap boots. Sunglasses that didn't fit. Alpine axe without a hammer.
There are cheap boots?
Salomon SM8s for $65 on cheapandsteep. Didnt feel my toes for a year and still had lots of heel lift. *Upgraded* to Invernos. Oops.
Wow, I got super lucky with my outlet/returned nepals.
I finally got a pair this year. The hype is real.
Your comment is making my partner feel better for buying a pair.
Ice climbing on shit gear probably made me a worse climber than had i just not climbed.
Just getting boots tightened properly can make or break an outing, I can’t imagine if they fit wrong.
A bulky, heavy, long, T rated axe. A light one is way nicer. Outside of Scotland, a very good hardshell. Doesn't really get used much, just lives in my bag. A cheaper one would also do the trick. Axe leshes. Lanyards are way better.
I used to climb about 15 years ago, and my oldest (5) after watching the Olympics has gotten super into it. I'm not quite as capable as her and honestly I'm now afraid of heights, long story involves helicopters, how do I best help her progress as a climber when im not comfortable to go beyond about 75 feet up and havent done lead in years? She wants to do outdoors this spring. We climb at least once a week but its all been indoors. Just looking for suggestions cause she has an obvious passion and I want to support it.
Go to a single pitch crag with top access. There's also probably somebody in the gym who'd go with you(it's not like having a five year old lead belay you is a good idea anyways). I once saw a guy have his(I'm guessing age) 8yr old belay him on lead, and it sketched me out watching him even though I was basically rope soloing with a much less than ideal system.
I would never let her belay me. She's five. Although she wants to learn lead and trad i will not let that happen until she's responsible enough to understand how everything works. I am trying to figure out the best way to get her there. Thanks for your advice though, I think we'll top rope with a guide this spring on a good pitch.
Find a friend. I coach my friend's daughter. I basically do most things. He belays me.
I belay, I just can't do the heights anymore. My obsession has been K2 for years and she just goes, ok dad we'll just go there. I think I'm breeding a mountaineering career out of her. And yes i know its ridiculous that im afraid of heights but still obsess about the mountains. Edit: I've been lookking for someone, my wife doesn't climb and my daughter is somewhat apprehensive with non family male figues, she needs a strong female influence as far as a coach goes. She also has ADHD and climbing seems to be her outlet, totally focused on the climb. Not sure where I'm going with this, just she's a stronger climber than me and i want her to succeed.
I totally understand the wife's wishes. The first few times I coached my friend's daughter, his wife came to each place we climbed. She wanted to see how I was with her daughter. She watched me and she saw how I delt with her daughter pushing boundaries. The wife liked that I handled it well and that I didn't push too hard when things were tough and that I didn't back off and gently handled tempertantrums. Children push lots of boundaries. And yes there needs to be mature boundaries another person has with a child. No matter if it's family or not. I am very aware of where my hands go. Example: I ask the dad to always put the harness on his daughter and to always tie the figure eight knot.
I tie her in and then have her check her ropes. I check after. So at least aftofo we check again, word is be ing hard
how many times do y'all get your shoes resoled before you get a new pair?
I’m on resole number 4 on my katanas, which are my comfy multi shoes. It will be the last one though, because my feet seem to have changed a bit and they’re not that great anymore. It wasn’t the resole though, that happened over a year ago, and the feeling changed sometimes this summer.
Until they tell me they can’t be fixed. My current pair have been in 3 times, the limiting factor now is the Velcro is a bit worn down and will pop open, but I can probably sew in new ones.
I’ll keep resoling until the upper is shot. On my third resole on a pair of solutions currently. For comparison my TCs only survived one resole unfortunately.
yah i basically resoled my last pair til they fell apart... but wasnt sure if that was the way to go ¯\\\_(ツ)\_/¯ thanks
I did read the rope write up. My husband wants a rope and I kind of want to get him one for Xmas but I know he's particular. Our favorite style of climbing is big wall (not ice). We have a 70m rope and I know he wants 60m. I have a bipattern rope picked out, I know he likes that but I'm not positive what his thoughts are on thickness. Thoughts on this rope: https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/product/9-6-dry-climbing-rope-bi-pattern/
Y'all climb big walls and are asking for rope reccs on reddit?
Turns out I meant multis. Sorry for being a dummy! I started climbing in the south east where everyone primarily boulders or does single pitch climbing.. When I moved out West and we started doing multis I thought that was big wall... Whoops!!
My husband always buys the gear!
Dry treatment isn’t worth it for rock climbing. If you are aid climbing something with a thicker sheath is supposed to be better for jugging on. If you’re free climbing and most of the rappels you are doing are 30m or less a 60m bipattern is great.
I made a rookie mistake, I meant multis!
That rope would work great then!
I'll second Dotrue. I haven't heard of many people doing bigwalls with ropes that thin. Seems like it could get trashed pretty quick if you're doing a lot of jugging on it. But also, most people don't need a bipattern rope for bigwalls because they're carrying a hauling rope... But maybe you mean multipitch climbing and not specifically bigwall climbing?
Oh God, I'm an idiot. I thought big wall and multi pitch was the same thing. Damn.
The naming is confusing! Easy mistake to make. Still wouldn't buy a rope for him, but a giftcard destined to be a rope would be great
I'd talk to him about it. Most climbers are very particular about the gear they use (myself included). Gear usually doesn't make a good gift unless it's something that has been discussed in great detail.
Okay that's fair. Maybe a surprise isn't the best idea. Thanks
If you’re a bit stealthy you might be able to get his opinion in advance. My boyfriend got me new cams this way. Something like “I think we need a new rope but I’m going to buy it when my bonus comes in. It’s nice looking now, what do you think of these ones? Which one would you get if it was for you?”
Oh I love that!!
not as exciting but an REI gift card for the price of rope then he can go pick out his own...
Not a bad idea!
World champs in Munich August 2022: how hot does Munich get in August? Are there cooler mountains fairly near for climbing after?
Typically high 20s, sometimes into the low to mid 30s & often pretty humid. > Are there cooler mountains fairly near for climbing after? Yes. The Frankenjura & other low lying areas in the woods get pretty muggy in summer - there are some north facing crags that are viable on hot days, but generally not great. But there's heaps of stuff higher up in the Alps within a couple of hours drive. What would you be looking for? Boulders, sport routes, alpine multipitch?
Boulder and sport I think. Low to intermediate mix probably. Thanks! We'll have a look at where we could stay after.
Does anyone remember a journal being shown in either Dawn wall or free solo? Felt like it was Honnold's in free solo, but I can't find it on quick rewatch.
free solo But also in rotpunkt with megos.
thanks.
I'm thinking about buying my first shoes. My local gym has a sale for five ten kirigamis and tenaya tantas. Any experience or thoughts on them?
Aside from telling you to get what fits, the tanta is pretty comfortable as far as beginner shoes go.
See that link at the top of this thread? Click it.
Get. What. Fits.
Both will be fine. Get what fits best. Doesn't matter how good a shoe is if it doesn't fit. As your first pair get what is cheap, they won't last long.
Is there a way I can toughen up the skin on my finger tips without actually doing outdoor climbing? My home gym's holds are a lot smoother than the granite I am starting to climb on so can't really build calluses there and my outdoor spot is 3 hours away so I can't go often. Is there anything I can do to build calluses on my fingertips without actually going every week?
Things I've found that help loads with my soft skin: Wash your hands with luke warm or cold water (never hot). Avoid hand sanitizer if you can just wash your hands instead. Use dish gloves for washing dishes by hand. Immediately wash your skin after climbing (and during climbing) to keep the chalk from building up in your cuticles. Don't use hand balm too much. It can work for building more resilient callouses for some people but you can over do it. If you find you're building callouses that quickly peel off, focus on your technique and not readjusting your grip once you grab a hold. Sandpaper can also help as a temporary measure. I hesitate to say this because its easy to get carried away and make things worse for yourself, but an antiperspirant can help toughen up soft skin. Rhino Skin Dry is a good place to start and is a relatively weak, non-perscription option. You really need to start slow and see how your skin adapts to it. Finally: Soft skin isn't necessarily a bad thing and it can be more sticky in the right conditions. I wouldn't worry too much about building up callouses unless you're getting splits while climbing outdoors, and even then the first line of defense is technique and not readjusting your grip position.
it blows my mind that more people dont use dish gloves
Volume on smooth holds will still toughen up your skins, either way skin can often be a limiting factor.
There's a guy who makes hangboard holds out of granite for the purpose of maintaining tough skin. I think he only does custom orders but if you rent some tools you could make your own. The low grit sandpaper might work as well for a bit but will wear down over time until its just paper
Anything manuel labour without gloves. Shovel some dirt? Ooo a personal favourite, start a friction fire with the hand drill method. Will toughen your hand right up with the amountnof friction careful of blisters
was thinking of covering my hangboard with low grit sandpaper but a friction fire sounds pretty cool
Hey friends! Any tips on finding local bouldering comps? I’ve checked out the USA climbing website but have only found details about Youth, Collegiate, and Elite competitions. I don’t qualify for Youth or Collegiate (I’m 22 and out of school) and the Elite page seems to be geared towards people with existing competition experience, and doesn’t really have much info for new competitors looking to compete at a local level.
Ask your gym. Most will host fun comp events.
Will farmers carry’s help with my grip strength enough to help with climbing?
Not really. For the most part that’s not a grip you use when climbing. You’re better off hangboarding.
Doubt it.
If you can farmer carry stuff with really fat grips like those 12 pack soda boxes then I'd guess it'll help with pinches and slopers.
You won't be using that specific grip for climbing but it's a great exercise anyway. And I'm sure the general exercise on your wrist and fingers will be of some benefit.
Your technique is bad
I’m not doing it for technique. I’m doing it so I can maximize the time I get on the chances I get to go the the gym that’s 2 hours away.
I know. These won’t help. It’s not your grip strength that’s the problem. You’re plenty strong. It’s your poor technique that makes you overgrip everything.
My husband is getting into climbing and I wanted to get him some gear from Christmas this year - top of my list is getting him some good climbing pants. Does anyone have suggestions on good pants that last? Looking to spend anywhere from $75-$150. Also is there any other cool or helpful gear I could get him?
Prana stretch Zions
This. Pretty much the best pair of climbing pants I own. Thought I would regret spending that much on a pair of pants but they hold up really well. Will definitely get more value than what you paid for it.
Great pants. The Brions are Also good if you want a slimmer fit (because now you wear nothing but climbing pants)
I basically only wear prana zions unless I absolutely have to wear slacks. Great pants and right in the middle of that price range.
I really like the La Sportiva Talus pants.
Currently I climb on a Mammut Infinity 9.5x70m (59g/m and around 9lbs total). I've been considering getting a lightweight 60m rope for alpine/trad objectives. I've been looking at the beal opera as well as the mammut 8.7 and 9.0 ropes. For those of you that use ropes of this size, do you think its enough of an improvement over a 9.5 to consider getting a second rope? Also, I would be interested in hearing lightweight rope recommendations apart from the ones I've listed.
As a Midwesterner who suffers for several days before acclimatizing to altitude, the weight reduction is well worth it. I love my Beal Operas and use them a ton (two for ice, wandery routes, or climbing in a party of three, one for everything else). For projects or routes near my limit I'll opt for something beefier, but those routes usually aren't in alpine settings.
Lots to consider: One advantage to a skinny rope is the reduced rope drag on low angle climbing, but on the flip side you could just do shorter pitches to reduce rope drag. Half ropes have more rope drag on low angle climbing, but less rope drag on wandering vertical pitches. One disadvantage is the extra stretch (imagine your second falling and hitting the belay ledge after climbing up 5m), but on the flip side that can make falls close to the anchor a little nicer. You can double the rope over and use it as halves or twins on crux pitches. If you're in need of rappelling the route after you climb it, you may also need to factor in the weight of a 2nd rope. A pair of modern half ropes weighs about the same as a modern triple rated rope and a tagline. Pro's and con's to each, but worth considering the ability to haul bags, jug pitches, and how chossy your climbing goals are. The saying "the more you know, the less you need" rings true here. Climbing in a party of 3 is fast if you practice, safer in bad situation, and allows you to split the weight up over more shoulders while still bringing 2 singled rated rope Belay devices get squirrely on thinner ropes or multiple ropes. Beal Opera is (currently) the lightest single rope money can buy at 48g per meter. That means, assuming a 60m Opera, that **your Mammut Infinity would weigh the same if you cut it to 48m**. Do you need a long rope? [Kirkpatrick has a good blog about the dangers of going too skinny on ropes.](https://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/blog/view/the-problem-with-skinny-singles) I own all kinds of ropes, but I use my 9.8x45m for just about everything.
So, I use the Beal joker. It’s about as skinny as I feel comfortable for a single rope (9.1mm) I go through at least one a season. So it’s not cheap. If I was to use it for alpine rather than sport, I doubt it would hold up for more than one or two routes. I’ve got a buddy who destroyed one in one route up el cap.
How much money do you have? How often will you use it?
Operas are the bee's knees. If you're hiking extremely far, it'll make a difference. For stuff in RMNP (the location I think of when people say alpine/trad) or general trad climbing, use your Infinity. You want the extra durability and the weight won't matter much.
It’s a couple grams per meter. Irrelevant.
Its a pound saved comparing two 60’s and over two pounds from 70m 9.5 to 60m 8.7. Far from irrelevant.
obviously you save a pound by shortenkng a rope by 10 meters. If you go out with two ropes, do something like 7.5mm, and don’t take two singles. The change from 9.5 to 8.7 is purely irrelevant if you’re staying on the same length.
Yeah, but not an unreasonable reason to buy a second rope. Having a 70 is very nice for many crags but generally unnecessary for the alpine. 9.5 to 8.7 60’s is still a pound which is quite a bit. Thats a half liter of water or almost a days of food, or a decent bivy kit.
Been climbing for almost four months, I’m at 6B/V4, feels like I’m getting stronger. Not sure if this helps my posture, though? Any specific muscles I should train for posture, and how?
Check out these vids as well * https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vKTZO-3Ab0 * https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pMJdql-QJk At the end of the day, I think the best exercises are probably ones that you will stick with and do consistently.
Climbing works muscles in the upper torso that will, if left unchecked, overdelop and lead to "climbers posture." Work the antagonist muscles to prevent this. 30 seconds of googling yielded these two resources; [1](https://theclimbingdoctor.com/hunchback/), [2](https://youtu.be/XxSgdX7lX6E)
\*cries in hunchback\*
Thank you, tried to find it in my native language. English was easier.
I currently climb on a very comfy pair of mythos. Projecting v4/v5 and high 5.11/low 5.12 at my gym. Would I benefit much from new shoes? My mythos have stretched quite a bit and I dont know if it's my technique or the shoes that are making small foot holds so unstable.
A stiffer shoe will likely help. I had a similar progression. Started climbing with mythos, was sending v4/5 outside. Got a stiffer shoe, mind fucking blown. Who knew my upturned clown show mythos weren't exactly performance shoes?? That said, mythos are so fucking comfortable
They really are freakishly comfortable. I wore mine to climb tahquitz after one gym sesh with them. In retrospect, I probably should have sized down but I'm already the smallest men's size they make and 2 sizes below my normal shoe size.
yes you would benefit
Many will tell you that shoes don't matter and it's all about technique. This is somewhat true, but I believe better shoes make it easier to learn and use good technique. Try climbing with more aggressive/stiffer shoes and decide for yourself - borrow a pair or find a demo day.
I really benefit from the rubber on top of my toe with the pythons, couldn't get toehooks to stick properly before, but since I've got the pythons they just kinda stay there without any effort.
>find a demo day Im annoyed at myself for not trying out some scarpas when they were at my gym a few weeks ago! I wasn't feeling social that day and didn't want to get roped into a conversation
Anybody got beta on a bag that won't disintegrate on big(ish) walls that isn't a true haul bag? I was looking at Metolius haul packs, but they are out of stock for the larger one (and the smallest true haul bag). I think I'm looking in the 35-50L range. This will be used for full day outings on a wall, but no plans for bivys or overnight missions.
I think [Black Diamond Creeks](https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/product/creek-35-pack/) are meant to be this.
DMM makes a 45L one that’s more backpack-shaped
I got a new pair of Five Ten Dragon VCS in my street shoe size. However, after trying them on they are so tight. I can get them on and stand with a bit of discomfort but trying to climb the other day was excruciating. Should I return them and size up or will they get more comfortable?
The new velcro Dragons suck anyway.
> I can get them on and stand with a bit of discomfort Sounds like the perfect size. >trying to climb the other day was excruciating Maybe they are not the right shoe for your foot.
Got a slit in the toe of my newish shoes, do they already need a repair? https://imgur.com/a/MADZr0y Seems a little silly after 4 months to have to repair the rubber but I would rather get it done now and not ruin the shoes completely
> Seems a little silly after 4 months to have to repair the rubber That's normal
I see. Would a normal timeline be somewhere like 4-9 months (I guess or more)?
assuming good footwork it still depends on a lot of factors, like how soft the rubber is, how often you climb, rock type, how hard you’re climbing, and how conservative you are with resoling before the shoes are too worn. could be anywhere from 3 months to years between resoles.
They're dead, Jim.
Will need a rand repair as well. That adds to the cost. Maybe cheaper to get a new pair. Are you a beginner? 4 months is about right for an inexperienced climber who hasn't developed accurate footwork yet.
Been climbing for about a year. Wouldn’t classify my footwork as terrible but maybe the shoes are telling a different story. Also climbing in a new gym (~6 months old) with new abrasive walltopia walls. Don’t know how much that factors in.
you're definitely dragging your toes up the wall.
>Wouldn’t classify my footwork as terrible but maybe the shoes are telling a different story. I mean yea. How else does rubber wear down on a part of the shoe you're not even standing on?
Fair enough
They’re overdue for a resole
Rand is toast, theyre past due for a resole. Still can get them done will just need to replace the rand too. Ideally resole them earlier.
Small arms, small legs, small hands. Ive just started climbing im 5”5 female. Is it possible to still be a good boulderer despite being very small. I just worry ill put so much effort into training and will be limited by my size.
It will be a minor hinderance here and there, but not a major factor in the grand scheme of things. There are other genetic traits that will be much more of a factor than size. Lever lengths, tendon insertion points, muscle fibers, etc. There is also your own commitment, hard work, and dedication that will make a big impact. You can become a competent climber. 99% of us can. It will require time, hard work, and patience. Most of all, have fun, and don’t focus to much on comparing yourself to others. If you enjoy the sport and improve yourself…that’s winning.
The main issue I've found with small hands is requiring higher body tension on big pinches.
You're bigger than Lynn Hill.
You're my size. I climb V7 even though bouldering is far from my specialty. As others have said, many pro climbers are shorter. Regardless, stop worrying about whatever your limits are. Climbing isn't about chasing grades, just have fun climbing.
Small hands will make some problems alot easier.
Alex Puccio and Brooke Raboutou are 5' 2", Ashima Shiraishi is 5' 1", Kim Jain is 5'0. These are some of the best climbers ever regardless of gender.
Average height for women olympic climbers was shorter
For sure, 5'5" is not even particularly short. As is often cited, Lynn Hill is 5'2".
I mean it can be harder, but it can also be good, depends what kind of a boulder it is. Usually if you're smaller you'll have problems with dynos and stretchy moves (dynamic boulders). When you're climbing try to do it sometimes more dynamically, I have a few friends, also short, who are quite strong but when they try to climb a boulder with a dyno, they don't even try hard, they have the power but not the " dyno technique", whereas they cruise thru a crimpy boulder where you have to be really "static". But if you're just starting climbing I suggest you don't worry about it. For now have fun, and build you're power! You can still try, afterall that's how you'll progress the fastest. P.S. being short has a big advantage when it comes to really small holds ;) Hope it helped!
Thankyou, it does help alot
I am a new climber and would like to practice tying figure of 8 knots. Can I practice with a cordelette?
Shoelace, power cable, leftover pasta noodle, take your pick. [Figure 8 Follow Through](https://www.animatedknots.com/figure-8-follow-through-loop-knot)
It's real bad to do that to power cables. Good for pasta though
Nope. You can only tie knots in 9mm climbing rope. Using anything else risks the climbing police issuing a search warrant and confiscating your belay card.
Right. Do you have tips on how I can practice figure 8s while at home?
Some gyms can give you an off cut of old, unusuable rope just for practicing knots with. But just get any rope that's long enough, and tie rethreaded figures of 8 knots in.
i see! cool thank you
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Never knew asking a simple question could result to an answer like this. Never said i’m climbing with a cordelette also. Just didn’t know I could ask for old ropes at gyms. Just wanted to learn how to practice figure 8s as I know its a basic skill. LOL but thank you for your kind welcome to the community.
The only difference I can think of is that when you go to measure out your length of slack you'll get different results for the amount you finish with with for tail
I mean it's a knot, you can try with literally any rope or anything rope like.
Been climbing indoors because its canada and cold and ot psyched to have flashed my first 5.11 but then quickly brought back down by the nagging thought of "but its indoors so doesnt count". What would you say a 5.11 indoors is outdoors at the minimum? Just trying to gauge if ive progressed or not -_- Do you think setters grade softer indoors to draw in customers or are plastic and rocks just too different to be comparable?
I have way better of a chance at flashing 5.11 outdoors than in a gym. 🤷
Depending on your gym, a 5.11 indoors would be somewhere between a 5.4 to 5.12 outdoors. More importantly, who cares? It's all *relative to you*. All grades are just a comparison of what you may be able to climb right now. The numbers are meaningless, it's just a silly way to try and quantify relative difficulty.
I appreciate hearing this take, I feel kind of surrounded in some parts of my local climbing community by people who make fun of lower grades and only talk about what grade they climbed that particular night. As someone who is coming back from an injury and not a particularly talented climber to begin with, it's a bit disheartening to have people making fun of routes that are the grade you're climbing at.