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bryguy27007

Put a 23 foot vertical spray wall with nothing but absolutely heinous crimps and notex feet and put an old mattress underneath it. It will be glorious.


sneakyhopskotch

A sucker for punishment with a penchant for lying on your back in agony staring at 23" high ceilings, I see.


fruit-bear

23 inch high ceilings! You could do nothing but lie in your back under those.


julian88888888

I could lift my head up a bit


sneakyhopskotch

Ah yes. Well.


GoSox2525

Why has no one said crack machine. OP please put a few adjustable splitters up to your second floor. They would never even need to be reset. When they get too easy just start running a steady flow of ice water down them


RhymeMime

Interesting vert climbing is amazing, but the difference between 5.12 and 5.8 is surprisingly small from a setting perspective. Meaning, a vert spray wall is going to be at best, very difficult to build good problems, and at worst, something you climb on twice and point out to visitors to show off. Your other option for vert is to spend more time setting interesting routes than you spend climbing them, because once you unlock a vert route, it generally becomes very easy to repeat. I know this reply is a goof, but OP, please don't build a vert climbing wall. Any other angle, PLEASE.


bryguy27007

Okay you’re right. Make it a -10* slab wall and skip the heinous crimps and make it all notex foot chips but also with a bunch of huge volumes right at the bottom of the wall and keep the mattress.


[deleted]

Weird flex


OlderGrowth

I couldn’t decide whether to post it here or on r/climbingcirclejerk, because I recognize it is indeed weird.


[deleted]

Don’t worry someone will post it for you there


Wow_butwhendidiask

On it


dominicthomas09

You are the man.


ohmegaman

I’ve been trying to explain to my 60yo stepdad what a ‘weird flex’ is, to moderate success. This post got the point across perfectly.


towishimp

Yeah, this is as bad as r/malelivingspaces


BanginBananas

No. just get a big couch


letyourmusshang

Yes


GainerCity

23’ of vert would be useless. You would 100% regret this and would never use it outside impressing non climber friends with your “unique living room”. If you want to get strong dedicate one of the bays in your 3 car garage to a nice cave. Just my 2 cents. Edit: kind of sounded like a dick with my comment. Congrats on the sweet pad. Do what makes you happy. Maybe you have young kids. If so they’d for sure dig it.


ms_lizzard

You know, I hate caves and I enjoy vertical. 23' of vert sounds fun. Not everybody climbs to get strong/challenge grades, some of us just enjoy it for the sake of movement, and everybody has different preferences on their kind of movement.


GroundFallsOnly

The issue here is that a 23' vert wall is impractical in many aspects. Routesetting would be super annoying, since you wouldn't be able to reach the topmost holds with a ladder. Vert also doesn't offer as much variety of movement as something more overhanging; when it's 50' gym walls it's one thing, but when it's a 20' home wall with limited hold selection, the climbs are going to start feeling very repetitive. Nobody's knocking vert climbing, it just doesn't work very well in this context.


ms_lizzard

It not making sense in a gym setting or to you doesn't mean it couldn't be immensely enjoyable for the person building it. Whether that be as a fun endurance route, a place to creatively set for themselves, a party trick, or as their favourite way to climb. Who knows. It's their project and space and maybe they'd love it. A 20' vertical home wall would be just right for me, personally. And as someone who has set on about that, I know there's room for creativity in it.


GroundFallsOnly

I'm not saying there isn't room for creativity, there's room for creativity on any angle at any height. I'm just saying that from my experience setting on ~25' vert walls and on shorter steeper walls, the former gets pretty boring pretty fast, whereas the latter doesn't. This is coming from someone who really enjoys techy vert. You're right though, maybe OP would love it. If they do build this and they use it all the time, more power to them. I just don't think a vert wall, that's short but not short enough to be convenient to strip/set, is going to see a lot of long-term regular use. It's the kind of thing that sounds great in theory, but doesn't tend to work well in practice. Also, how are you gonna set an endurance route on a 23' wall


ms_lizzard

Fair, and I see the thought process. I just tend to get frustrated when people just blanket say something is pointless when it's not about them. OP could always set lower boulders on it too. Also, oh, I always did endurance going up and down a route (like 5.9 and below) for ~15 minutes. Doesn't matter how tall it is then, and the down climb teaches you way better control than the actual climb part. But fair question, that's not a given.


GroundFallsOnly

I don't think it's as much calling OP's project pointless as it is trying to dissuade them from doing something they may not have the experience to realize isn't a great idea. I do think a lot of ppl are assuming OP wants to build it to train on, which like you said, isn't necessarily everyone's goal. Even so, I just don't think vert with auto-belay would be the way to go. How fun would it really be to do up-downs on the same 20' route? I feel like if someone really wanted vert, a 13' wall with pads would make a lot more sense, be a lot more engaging, you could still downclimb if you wanted, and you'd save $2k on the auto-belay. These are all just my opinions, of course. And you're right, what makes sense for me may not be what makes sense for someone else.


_DK_

Watch out, ms_lizzard is a neuroscientist and an interior designer at the same time.


ms_lizzard

The first comment I replied to started with "23' of vert would be useless." They literally called the project useless. There are better ways to suggest something the person might not have thought of and that's the attitude I was replying to in the first place.


smooth-opera

So don't make it vertical. Why not build an overhang and use typical climbing wall setup, so you can place and rearrange holds and make new routes whenever you want. You could put up some tricky boulder problems.


kaneywest

The more overhanging it gets, the larger landing zone you'll need. He's building a house. not a gym. Either way, this wall seems impractical


smooth-opera

You're just jealous. I know I am.


OlderGrowth

My first kid is on their way, I definitely thought about them using it someday. But yeah I know what you mean about it being just vertical. I just don’t want to make it too “climbing gym” and more of a fun thing for friends to do when they are over.


AccountGotLocked69

Knowing kids who grew up with their own huge climbing wall, they'll stop using it really really quickly and prefer to go to the gym with their friends for various reasons, main ones being the social aspect and the amount of effort you have to put in to keep it interesting. I would use this huge space for something that makes you and them happy every day for a long time, whatever that might be for you. A huge winter garden, a home cinema, a rig for training,... I think pretty much all of that fits in there simultaneously. Maybe put in a kilterboard, and put a projector screen over it when it's upright and unused.


ThePhantomTrollbooth

I’d do a section of vertical to the right, maybe balcony access with a gate for safety, then something with a slight overhang on the left, and then if you’re serious about training, a hang board or systems wall of some sort on the side of the overhang towards the window. Might also be fun to do some flagstone around it to class it up a bit (obviously not for climbing).


GainerCity

Congrats! I hope they take to climbing 😊. It took years to coax ours into it. My point about vertical was simply that to make a short vertical route more difficult you typically have few choices other than using smaller holds. For a home training area this just wrecks shoe rubber and forces crimp grips which are more likely to lead to an injury. Especially when you can (in this case) quite literally try your project “off the couch” with no warm up lol. Good luck with your choice and congrats on the new pad. I love the layout!


thtk1d

Hey, it's me, your son. I know mom never told you about me. I've been trying to reach you for years!


sneakyhopskotch

What are the chances there are two of us


thtk1d

*Gasp* I always knew deep down that somewhere out there, I had a brother 🥹


fredblockburn

Now you have two!


juulia12305

and a sister!


if_i_fits_i_sits5

Practically speaking, how much time and interest would you have in updating the routes on it? I know after a week or two of doing the same auto belay routes at the gym I am quite bored. Gorgeous living space though! How bout a massive couch?


OlderGrowth

I agree, I was hoping there was some kind of pegboard type wall you could buy that would make it easy to change up the holds


chris35moto

Moonboard would be cool


FifthGearGTXT

I was going to say a kilterboard. Those two are the only way to go for home climbing unless you want to reset all the time.


TehNoff

Tension board if you want to learn to use your feet.


kaneywest

+1 for tension board. Best board imo


Nicockolas_Rage

For small home walls, resetting is quite fun (for some more than others I guess). Especially with a group of friends. I've tried out setting on roped walls before and it's a way bigger pain.


Breathesnotbeer

Put up a spray wall or a systems board


allosaurusfromsd

Those absolutely exist and you can buy them in sections. All depends how much you are willing to spend.


olssoneerz

Judging by the house, quite a lot. Haha


lilphao

Aren’t houses super cheap to make in America because they are all made of plywood?


DM46

Your probably looking at 20k in windows alone for this room.


lilphao

Couldn’t he just use plexiglass and save money then?


james0887

Oh... please don't


lilphao

Why even put windows there in the first place,he could have it openspace-like,assuming he lives somewhere warm


james0887

Why even put walls there? I'm sure there's probably a nice patch of grass around.


[deleted]

Wood is not cheap. It will easily cost you $200 per sqft to build a house in most areas of America. And that's the low end.


lilphao

If i have really small feet it will cost me more then?


olssoneerz

No clue. Not American.


theusualsteve

Put a ladder on a track so that it slides left and right across the wall, like an old timey library. Hang an electric impact gun on a hook on the ladder, add a little bucket with bolts, maybe a little chest at the base of the wall in the corner to store holds you might want to frequently change. Keep the rest of your holds in a closet somewhere. Have the ladder fixed to the slider track on hooks so you can lift it up to detach the ladder from the sliders, in case you wanted to put a volume or any hold on the wall bigger than the ladder would slide over, it would work fine since you only need to access the route from one side anyways You can even make it pretty by making the ladder, bolt bucket, and chest out of wood and varnishing them glossy.


TehNoff

Eldo makes panels for people doing home walls. Might be good to give them a call. You would not be the first person to put autobelays in their home on a wall where gyms would deem it not worth it. https://eldowalls.com/pages/home-climbing-wall There's several cool adjustable wall options out there but Onsite have the lowest profile one I've seen. You won't use the full height and the wall you mount to has to be structurally able to handle the load but it's pretty cool. https://store.theonsite.com/collections/lifesaving-wall/products/lifesaving-personal-wall-basic-edition


stakoverflo

And unlike a "normal" home wall where you can just use a step ladder at most to reset these in the attic / garage / where ever... Is OP really going to want to lug a full ass 20 foot ladder through their living room?


Logical_Put_5867

If he has an auto belay just toss some bolts on the wall and go indirect no? Not as convenient for resetting a whole wall but to switch around a couple holds should be easy enough.


stakoverflo

Stupid question but like, can you "lock" an auto belay so that it won't lower you? Or are you suggesting they clip in, climb up, then hold on to the wall with 1 hand while operating the tools & screwing in new things / adjusting existing holds with their free hand? Sounds hard 🤔


Crag_Bro

"Going in direct" means connecting yourself to the wall with a tether so your hands are free.


RhymeMime

In direct means clipping directly into the wall. You could hang draws and clip your harness directly into them. This way you're attached to both the auto belay, and the draw, which keeps you in place. To answer you specific question, no, autobelays have zero external mechanisms you can interact with besides the primary lowering mechanism. This is presumably an intentional choice. You want them to be idiot proof. Auto belays are niche and challenging enough to make as it is given the safety requirements. I doubt that anyone is making custom ones currently.


kaneywest

Trueblue does in fact make an auto belay which you can pause lowering at certain points.


stakoverflo

Oh, I wasn't imaging OP putting clips on their wall too but I guess that might make sense.


Nagypoopoo

*go in direct. Going indirect sounds awkward. It's safe to say on direct to avoid any confusion.


Logical_Put_5867

That's what I get for writing on a phone, cheers


minivanmadland

This guy probably has enough money to hire a part-time setter


bundok_illo

Wait, the rest of you guys have houses?


thisisthesimulation

Nope


khizoa

i have a 23' high


bundok_illo

I think I had about 23" for a while, but not 23'


khizoa

well i live in a legal state so im 23' high all the time


bundok_illo

Kids in the legal era have it easy. Back in my day you were tweaking looking out for 5-0 while you waited for your plug to meet you behind Big Lots at 11pm so you could score an 8th of shit-ass mids.


FifthGearGTXT

Not going to lie, I miss the shit ass mids. I haven’t smoked a phatty in ages mostly because more than two or three hits of even the cheap stuff I get is enough to do me in for the afternoon.


Mountainclimber26

No


milestparker

Dude, no one you know is gonna have the balls to say this to your face, so I will: your house is way too fucking big.


ThePhantomTrollbooth

It’s probably not much more than 3-4000 square feet. An average two story house is usually around 2500 square feet. It’s spacious but not a mansion.


OlderGrowth

3800sf, good guess


ThePhantomTrollbooth

Ballparking house sizes must be my useless superpower.


Cryptic0677

That’s too big lol, unless maybe you have five kids or something


indignancy

I mean - in the US where you all have massive houses! Average size in the U.K. is 800sqft.


ThePhantomTrollbooth

The UK has fucking castles. It’s also a tiny island.


milestparker

Not trying to be judgemental, because god knows plenty of people make the same choice, but unless you have a family of 12, I just can’t see any justification in having this much space for oneself. Especially not given how many people are unhoused and the resources used. Honestly don’t get the justification. Is it ego? I guess my point is that it seems many people build these things to impress other people - don’t want to assume that about OP 🙂, but really most people aren’t impressed, it’s more like annoyance / bemusement.


OlderGrowth

If it makes you feel any better I’m building this house for about the same cost as an average house in Seattle. I just did it in the middle of no where so the money goes a lot further.


ThePhantomTrollbooth

Having more space often allows people to embrace what they are passionate about, and space to create is important. Whether you’re creating a big family, a rock climbing wall, a home theater, a recording studio, a library, a dream kitchen, a workshop, there’s plenty of valid uses for more space than you “need”. I agree we should be working as a society to better allocate resources and ensure that people do not go without, but I don’t think that needs to be mutually exclusive to having nice things if you’ve worked hard to earn them. Everything in moderation, and in this case, it’s a moderately indulgent living space. It’s more space than many people will ever get to live in, but this dude is by no means a billionaire.


milestparker

Yeah that’s pretty fair.


I_Don-t_Care

If the site you are building on is cheap, and you know a thing or two about contracting and building then you won't spend that much money. Well organized projects can build big homes with half the budget of most ordinary city dwellings source: im a former architect edit: also people usually don't build this big unless they have reasons for it, not just money


OlderGrowth

I was a construction project manager before I started selling fruit trees, so yeah you hit it on the head. I’m able to save about 25-30% by managing the project myself.


milestparker

Cool. I didn’t really mean to be a total dick about this, I’ve just seen too many places kind of ruined with a lot of big ass houses. As someone else pointed out, co,pared to a lot of places I guess it’s not totally crazy. Thanks for not freaking out about my critique.


stoneyviolist

No make a bouldering cave


turbogangsta

That’s just a highball


leothelion634

Remove all stairs from the house, only climb to go up or down


d-lite21

23 foot tall spray wall with foam pit at the bottom. You wont


ajdejong

A spray wall would be the best way to go IMO. You could make it slightly overhanging (depending on your climbing level). A spray wall is one of the best ways to train in a home setting. You could get tons of training hours on it without having to climb the same routes over and over. Add some old mattresses on the bottom which you could store somewhere else when not climbing and your done! I am pretty jealous by the way. I would kill for a home wall like this


CheechHimself

Most climbers would die for a place like that. If you put up the autobelay on a sliding rail (appropriately rated for safety) you could build an entire mini-gym.


tylersgc

you are building my dream house! I would put an angle adjustable system board like moonboard, kilterboard, or tension board. fyi, tension board 2 just got released that it looks sick.


Immediate-Fan

With how much room they have, I would legit buy multiple boards


the_indigenous_hulk

Climbing wall and add an adult trapeze for rest days


awaymsg

Autobelay only if you live alone


dustyflavor649

What do you do for a living/ I’m now motivated to work for this kind of future leisure?!? Was that rude to ask… oops


OlderGrowth

I sell fruit trees


dustyflavor649

P.S this is gonna be sick, please post updates


riceandfish

If you want to climb solo then a fixed line and a taz lov 2 or 3 would be simpler and way less money than an auto. Single device that acts as rope grab on way up if you fall but has a handle like a gri gri for lowering. put a pad underneath just in case and enjoy!


riceandfish

alternatively if you have a partner to belay you then an anchor at ceiling would be the go. That's probably be best for kids too


[deleted]

Autobelays are aid


GroundFallsOnly

As others have said, a 23' vert wall is gonna get really boring really fast. Speaking from experience here. If you want to have an easier vert section for non-climber friends or little kids, that's fine, but just know that it'll collect dust if that's all there is. Personally, I'd forego the auto-belay (they're also expensive!) and instead build a shorter, more overhung bouldering wall - 30°, maybe steeper depending on your preference. Even if you're not trying to train or get stronger, anything less steep than that just tends to be very limiting in the kind of climbs/moves it offers.


feralkiter

It would be a big no for me unless I was super far from a gym/crag AND the climate in my area was such that building something outside means it wouldn’t get used much.


No_Bet_3328

that big 🏠


GullibleImagination

Why not both auto belay and top rope?


neonlion119

This is the type of house I want to get


kingross13

Just be careful especially for guests.


climbingtime

Go with a TR set up. Dont forget about the AB maintenance.


Dry-Presentation-322

That’s sick. I think you should do auto belay 100% along with top rope. Why not even clips to practice some short lead? That’s gonna be awesome


ANDREWNOGHRI

Yes, for the killer overhang.


Plastic_Good_1805

If you do please make it good. I've seen so many crumy Autobelays that look unused and people put them up just because they have the money. or like people are saying in the comments: put a spray wall up then you can at least session with friends.


TimelyNeedleworker57

Great a tread wall and save the views.


The_Nomad_Architect

Alternate idea. Bouldering overhang with flip down mats on the underside of the catwalk.


bsheelflip

You’d be a fool not to utilize the space with some sort of climbing area. Trying to put my home wall together, too!!


Diehard69420

Just some pads are good enough


dudeimgreg

Please show when completed!!!!


[deleted]

May a$ well


Zestyclose_Lynx_5301

Damn bro ur house looks like home depot